Just a side note for any DIY’ers out there. The torque spec for the pan, especially when reusing the factory gasket or even the black wire one as a replacement do your best to get a torque wrench and do the spec. It may seem like too little, but it’s VERY important. Eventually you’ll have one leak if you don’t so don’t take the risk unless you have no other option with that gasket
Wise advice. Noobs should resist the temptation to over-tighten hardware! Torquing pan fasteners is for the purpose of avoiding overtorque and to match torque evenly. This is an excellent use for a click-type torque wrench because the deflecting beam style is harder to read upside down and requires putting yer face under the drippy transmission.
At some point Ford started to removed the drain plug on the torque converter (2000?) and the practice was dropped entirely in 2002. On this truck you could pull the TC inspection cover (top left corner of the screen (8:07) and rotate the torque converter until you find the plug and drain it. The TC holds about 6-7 quarts, the pan holds about 4 quarts, the rest of the fluid is in the cooler and the lines (entire system holds around 12 quarts total). If I took the time to drop the pan the TC would also get drained so 90% of the oil is changed instead of 30%. Without the TC plug changing 1/3 is still better than none. Replace the torque converter plug using some form of loctite. When refilling put 5 quarts in the pan then start the engine and let it idle while pouring the next 4-5 quarts. Put the vehicle in gear and back up and drive forward 5-6 feet. Then keep checking the oil level as the oil warms and more transmission fluid is added.
I'll remember that stuff. For right now our pan bolts heads have transmission fluid on them its on all the bolts heads so my guess the shop messed up the gasket or broke it or didn't put one on I know the fluid shouldn't be on all the bolt heads or they could have damaged the pan i don't know yet about it but once im done redoing the gas line and filter im gonna take the transmission pan off get that crap done then check that electronic shifter part up on the side of the transmission i think ours is broke maybe But I've got to do the gas line and filter first or the truck wont hold any gas it has to have that so it can run and warm up the fluids
The truck im working on was given to me cause the guy was ready to sale to the scrap yard. other than the rust underneath and around its still good then work out those small problems the ford has it should be good its a 98 f150 regular cab v6 with a remanufactured 4r70w transmission even though its a ford its still to good for the junkyard
Nicely put video. Simple and to the point. I learned from you how the gasket can be replaced even tho the previous gasket is in ok shape. Then siliconed on both sides before and after putting it in place.
From my many years as a diesel mechanic,we never put silicone on both sides of gasket. It only promotes the gasket to squeeze out from between the transmission housing and the pan. On the many Caterpillar machines I've worked on,Cat recommends using Cat cement on the part you can remove,in this case the pan. And on the other side only the thinnest film of silicone you can get away with. Leaks suck and this method is time proven to work every time. Just saying
One big issue - I would never allow the pan (especially full of fluid) to hang from the front two bolts as shown here (4:07). You will get a bent "lip" on the front side of the pan and it will leak no matter how you try to straighten it or how careful you torque it down - especially with the factory reusable gasket. Two bolts on opposite sides of the pan is better. Sucking most of the oil out of the pan before removing it is best and by far the least mess. The cheap gasket used in the video is ok if you are replacing the factory pan with a pan that has a drain. The RTV & rubber gasket will form a better seal than the factory "dry" gasket. But getting the pan off for the next service (using a pan without a drain) will be a big PIA and require a lot of time cleaning the two mating surfaces and you will be cursing whoever used the RTV. The factory gasket is expensive but it can be used several times usually without a leak. That's Ford's half hearted attempt to make changing the transmission fluid somewhat easier without making it too easy for DIY types.
You said Mercon is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE. I found out after putting in 2 quarts and doing a DEEP DIVE on here and GOOGLE that Mercon LV IS NOT COMPATIBLE with Mercon V. Do you know anything about that?
Great video, thanks! Is it possible to siphon the oil from the dipsticks opening to avoid all that mess? I will likely be servicing the transmission on the jack stands so there is very little room for oil pan. Thanks!
@@2carpros Thanks. Also, I would love to see a video on 1998 F-150 cat converter + exhaust replacement. Not many of those videos out there and they look like a major pain to replace. thanks again.
U can apparently release the fluid from the cooler line too, but you gotta turn the car on. Never really seen it done that way, but it sounds possible.
Is it necessary to change the filter as well? A lube shop told me it would cost $200 and they didn't change the filter. I'm assuming they would just vacuum it out and refill. Told him it was a rip off especially since engine oil and filter change was $35 and transmission service at$200 when it's essentially less work since they obviously don't remove the oil pan cuz if they did they would replace the filter as well.
Changing the filter is essential! Yeah that is definitely a rip off. It would take them 10 minutes to vacuum out the fluid and refill the pan. The filter is the hard part but you have to do it if you want your transmission to last. Thanks for watching!
That rubber gasket to the front of transmission filter, where there's a round rubber and mesh square....lol I don't what it's called. What fluid comes out of there. My truck shows oil stains around that round rubber gasket area. What fluid is that?
I think you are talking about the inspection cover for the torque converter. For the helpful answer - it could be the torque converter (transmission fluid) or the rear main gasket of the engine (motor oil).
So I have the same transmission but idk if it bad transmission or what it's hitting hard between 1 and 2 idk if it's trans or valve body I know the fluid is burnt but was told not to change it it can speed up the process if it's messed up idk what to do and don't have the money for a new trans if it's that
Buddy and I are trying to replace the dipstick on his 03 f150 4.2L and we can NOT find the whole in which it bolts the dipstick to. Any clue or help with that would be very appreciative. Thank you
Probably a really dumb question At the beginning of the video when you are showing a pan What is that part called that's to the left in the video next to it that seems to have a cap on it? I'm trying to help my neighbor fix his truck and it is missing that cap
Some do, some dont. The gasket I purchased from advance auto parts instructed not to add glue but just a grease to hold it in place as I put the pan back on. It was a rubber seal also.
Reusable as in use the gasket you popped off with the pan? I was wondering what to do it you keep the old gasket, if you needed to bead silicon it or not.
7:42 Anyone have any advice for getting that thing to stay up in there? I got it to stay JUST long enough to get the pan on, but if it falls out so easily...I'm afraid it's come out agin in there....
I have same style TRANSMISSION FILTER , that PLASTIC RING came off and my filter starved the pump and wasted a TRANSMISSION with only 14,000 miles on it. Not my fault ((BUT UNDER WARRANTY)) was replaced 👍🏻💰
If its an automatic its either a AODE/4R70W (basically the same transmission) or a E4OD - the heavy duty version that is a giant POS (my personal experience). Very small chance its a C6 (no overdrive). If it has an "E" for the transmission code its and E4OD, if it has a U its the 4r70W/AODE like in this video. A lot of half tons got the E4OD (both 4X4 and 2WD with any engine combination. Personally I hate the E4OD - its cost me 10 of thousands of dollars and every one of them I have owned has failed. I have also owned several with the AODE and have never had one fail - even after being horribly abused. The transmission code is on the vehicle information plate/decal on the driver's side door panel.
@@2carpros does this thing take 5qts or 14, youtube people say 4 qts online says 14. After adding 5 qts mine was full. I got out probably atleast 6qts of old fluid.
I would guess this one actually. The Econoline and the trucks share a ton of powertrain components! Thanks for watching! You can also look up the VIN to make absolutely sure.
I changed my gasket on my 98 Ford F-150 4.6 xlt and tighten the bolts to 11 w the torque but it’s still leaking, do you know if after years the pan needs to be changed? Or should I get a gasket like the expensive one?
Did you use RTV on it ? Sometimes the people assume the rubber gasket will seal it or maybe the manf of the gasket says rtv not required or sometimes people don’t clean out the reminancE of the old rtv/ gasket
Maybe a mod on the pan for a drain plug would have saved the customer time and money - Ford did this intentionally for customers to bring the truck back to them to make more money
@@Tryalittlebit Once you've changed the oil and filter on this style of transmission (most are now 20+ years old) I would replace with a pan with a drain plug. Keep changing the oil at 30K or less. Yes dropping the pan allows you to inspect the pan contents - but if you see chunks - what are you going to do? If the transmission is still functioning as it should 99% of the people are going to clean the pan and refill it and drive it till it quits. 1% are going to rebuild the transmission because of the chunks, If the transmission is having issues most are changing the oil in "hope" of getting the last little bit of use out of it and not looking to rebuild unless it fails 100%.
@@noone-nd4ml The filter is more of a screen. All those wear particles are allowed to flow through the transmission and the screen. The settle to the bottom of the pan while the car sits. The filter/screen does not prevent the tiny metal "paste" from circulating through the transmission. If your transmission is throwing chunks of clutch material - especially enough chunks to clog the filter its not long for this life with or without changing the oil. If having a drain plug encourages people to change their fluid more often - go with the drain plug.
@@juliobalderrama8525 Agree, The transmission arrives as the factory with the plug in the dipstick tube. When they install the dipstick tube they just push the plug into the pan and just leave it.
I really wish GM people would do their homework, lol. Pre 1987 Ford ATF's were replaced with Mercon, which was itself replaced by Mercon V; which were themselves designed to be backward compatible with previous Ford ATF's. Mercon LV is not Mercon four, six, or even Fifty-five (which is what LV means in Roman numerals). It's (L)ow (V)iscosity. If your vehicle calls for LV, use LV.
Sorry, I literally just watched another one of yall's vids where you're calling Mercon LV, mercon 4, and I'm genuinely concerned someone might not do their own homework, and mess up their car thinking LV is compatible with V....
I was told by a Ford chemical engineer that Mercon V is backward compatible with Mercon applications but not in transfer case applications. I have done plenty of homework as I own a 2005 F150 4x4 and I wanted to correct fluid for it.
@@geraldevans2535 I was about to replay saying Maxlife IS NOT compatible then I pulled up the latest label. They have changed the recommendations. Before Maxlife was compatible with Mercon LV, Dexron 2, 3, 6. Now it says basically all Dexron and all Mercon. I have to question this as Mercon LV is NOT compatible with Mercon 5 but Maxlife is claiming their oil is. Mercon 5 was a higher viscosity oil (almost 20W) while the earlier Mercon was around 15W (or slightly less.). Dexron 3 was about 15W and then went to about 10W or so with Dexron 6 and Mercon LV. I had been a HUGE fan of Valvoline Maxlife and used it in my Taurus and Kias and found transmissions to function better with it than factory oil (especially the Kias).
If it sparks and blows up due to gasses leaking out you don't want to leave it connected. So touching it slightly to make sure it won't spark is a good practice. A GM electrical engineer told me this so I'm inclined to believe it. Thanks for watching.
Just a side note for any DIY’ers out there. The torque spec for the pan, especially when reusing the factory gasket or even the black wire one as a replacement do your best to get a torque wrench and do the spec. It may seem like too little, but it’s VERY important. Eventually you’ll have one leak if you don’t so don’t take the risk unless you have no other option with that gasket
Wise advice. Noobs should resist the temptation to over-tighten hardware! Torquing pan fasteners is for the purpose of avoiding overtorque and to match torque evenly. This is an excellent use for a click-type torque wrench because the deflecting beam style is harder to read upside down and requires putting yer face under the drippy transmission.
Great video. Don't forget to run the truck through the gears before checking the level.
At some point Ford started to removed the drain plug on the torque converter (2000?) and the practice was dropped entirely in 2002. On this truck you could pull the TC inspection cover (top left corner of the screen (8:07) and rotate the torque converter until you find the plug and drain it. The TC holds about 6-7 quarts, the pan holds about 4 quarts, the rest of the fluid is in the cooler and the lines (entire system holds around 12 quarts total). If I took the time to drop the pan the TC would also get drained so 90% of the oil is changed instead of 30%. Without the TC plug changing 1/3 is still better than none. Replace the torque converter plug using some form of loctite. When refilling put 5 quarts in the pan then start the engine and let it idle while pouring the next 4-5 quarts. Put the vehicle in gear and back up and drive forward 5-6 feet. Then keep checking the oil level as the oil warms and more transmission fluid is added.
I'll remember that stuff. For right now our pan bolts heads have transmission fluid on them its on all the bolts heads so my guess the shop messed up the gasket or broke it or didn't put one on
I know the fluid shouldn't be on all the bolt heads or they could have damaged the pan i don't know yet about it but once im done redoing the gas line and filter im gonna take the transmission pan off get that crap done then check that electronic shifter part up on the side of the transmission i think ours is broke maybe
But I've got to do the gas line and filter first or the truck wont hold any gas it has to have that so it can run and warm up the fluids
The truck im working on was given to me cause the guy was ready to sale to the scrap yard. other than the rust underneath and around its still good then work out those small problems the ford has it should be good its a 98 f150 regular cab v6 with a remanufactured 4r70w transmission even though its a ford its still to good for the junkyard
Very well done easy to follow step by step instructions clear voice good video shots
Thank you very much!
Very well executed and produced. You should make training videos for all the repair shops...oh, you just did!!! Great job and very helpful! Thanks!
Thanks so much, that really means a lot to me!
You can drill a small hole on the bottom of the pan to drain it cleanly and replace the pan with a new one that has a plug built in
Might ruin your drill with ATF running down your bit into the motor. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Gotta be quick!
Thank you! This makes this less daunting for me! Pretty straightforward. I believe I have a bad gasket and that's a easy fix! Thank you again
Excellent!
I would give up my left testicle for a 2004 Mercury Marauder great video as always
We all would! Thanks for watching!
I would give up Joseph Maldonado testys for the Mercury aswell
Nicely put video. Simple and to the point. I learned from you how the gasket can be replaced even tho the previous gasket is in ok shape. Then siliconed on both sides before and after putting it in place.
Cool, thanks!
From my many years as a diesel mechanic,we never put silicone on both sides of gasket. It only promotes the gasket to squeeze out from between the transmission housing and the pan. On the many Caterpillar machines I've worked on,Cat recommends using Cat cement on the part you can remove,in this case the pan. And on the other side only the thinnest film of silicone you can get away with. Leaks suck and this method is time proven to work every time. Just saying
@@johnwad7468 do you even need it at all? I would rather do without all that
What about draining the converter and flushing the cooler?
Also came in 2000 model E-150..thanks for the help.
True. Thanks for watching!
One big issue - I would never allow the pan (especially full of fluid) to hang from the front two bolts as shown here (4:07). You will get a bent "lip" on the front side of the pan and it will leak no matter how you try to straighten it or how careful you torque it down - especially with the factory reusable gasket. Two bolts on opposite sides of the pan is better. Sucking most of the oil out of the pan before removing it is best and by far the least mess.
The cheap gasket used in the video is ok if you are replacing the factory pan with a pan that has a drain. The RTV & rubber gasket will form a better seal than the factory "dry" gasket. But getting the pan off for the next service (using a pan without a drain) will be a big PIA and require a lot of time cleaning the two mating surfaces and you will be cursing whoever used the RTV. The factory gasket is expensive but it can be used several times usually without a leak. That's Ford's half hearted attempt to make changing the transmission fluid somewhat easier without making it too easy for DIY types.
So what should i do then no rtv ontop the gasket and get a off brand gasket or a name brand like from ford
Great vid. I've always wondered if I top it off with the engine running or not. Excellent add on info on tranny vehicle application. Thank you
Thanks so much for watching!
@@2carpros check with the engine on, correct?
Thanks to you I just saved over 2000 dollars
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
The Marauder was only available in 2003 and 2004. The 2003 had a 4r70w, 2004 had a 4r75w.
Alright. Thanks for watching!
My last bolt is stuck. Torch it? San😊d it? File off? Rasp off [place
Get new bolt.
R100
2003 5.4 Tryon 4x4 extended cab and bed with liner
I had to learn the hard way on this. The video I watched mentioned nothing about 10 lbs ....so yes make sure it's 10 lbs...
You said Mercon is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE. I found out after putting in 2 quarts and doing a DEEP DIVE on here and GOOGLE that Mercon LV IS NOT COMPATIBLE with Mercon V. Do you know anything about that?
Why didn't you remove all the fluid by draining the torque converter and clearing the lines?
you shouldn't remove all of the transmission fluid if possible its bad for la truck
@@skylerpearson4352 Sounds like someone actually went to a decent school for this or has actually grown up around older trannies.
@@skylerpearson4352 Just like changing all your engine oil is bad for an engine.
Good video! Very well explained!
Thank you!
Great video, thanks! Is it possible to siphon the oil from the dipsticks opening to avoid all that mess? I will likely be servicing the transmission on the jack stands so there is very little room for oil pan. Thanks!
Yes you could do it that way too and save a huge mess! I just don't due to most people not having an evac tool. Thanks for watching David!
@@2carpros Thanks. Also, I would love to see a video on 1998 F-150 cat converter + exhaust replacement. Not many of those videos out there and they look like a major pain to replace. thanks again.
@@veshapidze I replace the cats daily , 90 degree elbow
U can apparently release the fluid from the cooler line too, but you gotta turn the car on. Never really seen it done that way, but it sounds possible.
@@2carpros will it get all the old ATF out if you do it that way? I’m skeptical
Thanks for share your knowledge
My pleasure! Thanks for watching Mari!
How about showing how to change the filter also probably be a good idea don’t you think😮
I literally did. Did you watch the entire video? Thanks for watching!
Well done thank you
Thanks for watching Greg!
If you use the old gasket do you need to put silicone on it?
Great video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Is it necessary to change the filter as well? A lube shop told me it would cost $200 and they didn't change the filter. I'm assuming they would just vacuum it out and refill. Told him it was a rip off especially since engine oil and filter change was $35 and transmission service at$200 when it's essentially less work since they obviously don't remove the oil pan cuz if they did they would replace the filter as well.
Changing the filter is essential! Yeah that is definitely a rip off. It would take them 10 minutes to vacuum out the fluid and refill the pan. The filter is the hard part but you have to do it if you want your transmission to last. Thanks for watching!
8:12 up on the left should it always be covered by that plug?
my truck doesn't have that cap. TY for the video
Mine doesnt either did you find it what is is called???
@@victorrodriguez4628 transmission bellhousing cap
probably should have one to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the bellhousing but its not the end of the world
@@BogusQuacky thanks, i will do my best to get one soon.
where are all the wires for the solenoids on the valve body?
Thank you sir best video out there on this type of transmission 👍
Glad you liked it!
That rubber gasket to the front of transmission filter, where there's a round rubber and mesh square....lol I don't what it's called. What fluid comes out of there. My truck shows oil stains around that round rubber gasket area. What fluid is that?
I think you are talking about the inspection cover for the torque converter. For the helpful answer - it could be the torque converter (transmission fluid) or the rear main gasket of the engine (motor oil).
Nice video😎
Thanks for watching!
So it was like 6 qts of fluid? Google says it's around 14 quarts. So who is right?
It's probably 14 bone dry. But for a service its 6. Thanks for watching!
How do you get all that old transmission fluid out of The torque converter
I have a 95 f150, with a 4.9 6 cylinder. Its standard shift, does the transmission have a similar filter? I want to change the fuild.
What is the white thing that falls out when you pull that pan
So I have the same transmission but idk if it bad transmission or what it's hitting hard between 1 and 2 idk if it's trans or valve body I know the fluid is burnt but was told not to change it it can speed up the process if it's messed up idk what to do and don't have the money for a new trans if it's that
Try searching (1-2 accumulator problem)
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
what does it look like with seal in there ???? and without ???? i think there is seal left in my trans but iam not 100% sure...
Buddy and I are trying to replace the dipstick on his 03 f150 4.2L and we can NOT find the whole in which it bolts the dipstick to. Any clue or help with that would be very appreciative. Thank you
Probably a really dumb question
At the beginning of the video when you are showing a pan
What is that part called that's to the left in the video next to it that seems to have a cap on it? I'm trying to help my neighbor fix his truck and it is missing that cap
On 4:10 what is that metal mesh looking part of the truck? I noticed there’s a seal and mine does not have it 😵
What would warrant this filter change?
What if I have never serviced the transmission. Should I just change the fluid. Run the truck 100 mile change it again. How many times should do this?
I just do it once. Changing the filter is really the big deal. Thanks for watching!
Do I need to drain Torgue Converter plug...also???
So do i have to glue the thing on? Or is that just a recommendation so it doesn't slide all over the place
Some do, some dont. The gasket I purchased from advance auto parts instructed not to add glue but just a grease to hold it in place as I put the pan back on. It was a rubber seal also.
Do you have to mess with your gasket and the vulcanized rubber, or can you do without all that? Thanks
If your gasket is compromised then it needs replacing and scrap off any of the old gasket that remains anywhere. Thanks for watching!
Use the Reusable gasket !! You don't need any sealant. Clean the surfaces. Put it back together. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN !
Reusable as in use the gasket you popped off with the pan? I was wondering what to do it you keep the old gasket, if you needed to bead silicon it or not.
@@slimjim4773 No silicon. Just make sure the surfaces are clean.
I wanna know how to get the ones by the frame I can't get them with the socket and extinction
7:42 Anyone have any advice for getting that thing to stay up in there? I got it to stay JUST long enough to get the pan on, but if it falls out so easily...I'm afraid it's come out agin in there....
Maybe put a small amount of RTV around the O-Ring if you are really concerned about it. Thanks for watching!
If your filter is bad could it cause the whole transmission not to want to go into gear
Yeah if it is all plugged up you won't build enough hydrolic pressure and it won't go into gear. Thanks for watching!
What is the foot pounds for torque wrench?
At about 11:30 he notes that it is 11 FT LBS.
I have same style TRANSMISSION
FILTER , that PLASTIC RING came off and my filter starved the pump and wasted a TRANSMISSION with only 14,000 miles on it.
Not my fault ((BUT UNDER WARRANTY)) was replaced 👍🏻💰
Very good
GREAT MASTERS ! THANKS AND GREETINGS FROM LIMA PERU
Our pleasure!
please, where is the gyroscope fuse or transmission for Marquis 1997?
thank you very much
IT'S BY THE BLINKER FLUID RESERVOIR,JUST TO THE LEFT.
thanks
No problem!
My mom has the mustang this thing came in
I can't find the dip stick anywhere! Please help.
1998 Ford f150 manual
Thats a manual trans you fill on thr trans
Well on the automatic transmission its on the left side so passenger side
Can you tell me if this is the same transmission for the 4.2
I believe it is
I installed the dealership gasket and still drips, do you have any suggestions? It’s for 98 f150 4.6 , the lan doesn’t look beat up
Seems like your gasket is defective. I would try a different one. Thanks for watching!
I have a 94 f150 5.0 can you tell me what is the transmisión on it please ?
If its an automatic its either a AODE/4R70W (basically the same transmission) or a E4OD - the heavy duty version that is a giant POS (my personal experience). Very small chance its a C6 (no overdrive). If it has an "E" for the transmission code its and E4OD, if it has a U its the 4r70W/AODE like in this video. A lot of half tons got the E4OD (both 4X4 and 2WD with any engine combination. Personally I hate the E4OD - its cost me 10 of thousands of dollars and every one of them I have owned has failed. I have also owned several with the AODE and have never had one fail - even after being horribly abused. The transmission code is on the vehicle information plate/decal on the driver's side door panel.
You can use a old gasket? Hard to believe. Id never use rtv on a gasket.
Ford says you can if it's in good shape. I have my doubts. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros does this thing take 5qts or 14, youtube people say 4 qts online says 14. After adding 5 qts mine was full. I got out probably atleast 6qts of old fluid.
Hi Brian, can you tell me what Trans is in a 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van with a 4.6 V8? Thanks
I would guess this one actually. The Econoline and the trucks share a ton of powertrain components! Thanks for watching! You can also look up the VIN to make absolutely sure.
@@2carpros Thanks Brian, I'll look that up.
I changed my gasket on my 98 Ford F-150 4.6 xlt and tighten the bolts to 11 w the torque but it’s still leaking, do you know if after years the pan needs to be changed? Or should I get a gasket like the expensive one?
Honestly that torque spec seems really loose. It is "technically" correct but maybe try tightening them a bit more. Thanks for watching!
2CarPros will do
2CarPros I bought the dealership gasket that is not just rubber .
Did you use RTV on it ? Sometimes the people assume the rubber gasket will seal it or maybe the manf of the gasket says rtv not required or sometimes people don’t clean out the reminancE of the old rtv/ gasket
Is this the transmission in the 1999 ford f150 4.6 4speed automatic ?
Yes it is. Thanks for watching!
Should have a drain plug on the torque converter on 4r 70 tranny
Maybe a mod on the pan for a drain plug would have saved the customer time and money - Ford did this intentionally for customers to bring the truck back to them to make more money
Correct. Thanks for watching!
Except you should change the filter and check for wear vehicals have been like this for over 40 years
They make several aftermarket pans with the plug at the bottom. Shouldn’t pay more than $25 for one.
@@Tryalittlebit Once you've changed the oil and filter on this style of transmission (most are now 20+ years old) I would replace with a pan with a drain plug. Keep changing the oil at 30K or less. Yes dropping the pan allows you to inspect the pan contents - but if you see chunks - what are you going to do? If the transmission is still functioning as it should 99% of the people are going to clean the pan and refill it and drive it till it quits. 1% are going to rebuild the transmission because of the chunks, If the transmission is having issues most are changing the oil in "hope" of getting the last little bit of use out of it and not looking to rebuild unless it fails 100%.
@@noone-nd4ml The filter is more of a screen. All those wear particles are allowed to flow through the transmission and the screen. The settle to the bottom of the pan while the car sits. The filter/screen does not prevent the tiny metal "paste" from circulating through the transmission. If your transmission is throwing chunks of clutch material - especially enough chunks to clog the filter its not long for this life with or without changing the oil. If having a drain plug encourages people to change their fluid more often - go with the drain plug.
Maybe you should start with 2 gallons
Is the rtv necessary?
Many people say no. I like to use it to insure no leaks. Thanks forw atching!
No, RTV should not be used is this application. Use the correct gasket and you don't need it.
I had a little yellow plunger in the bottom of my pan. Dont know where it belongs?
That's from factory..means your the 1st taking the pan off..
@@juliobalderrama8525 Agree, The transmission arrives as the factory with the plug in the dipstick tube. When they install the dipstick tube they just push the plug into the pan and just leave it.
Dude..wtf...you trashed the reusable pan gasket..and put rtv on it with a gaskets not as thick
It was ruined due to age. This is what you do when that happens. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros No, you purchase the correct new gasket
You forgot Ford E-series.
That's why I have you! Thanks for watchign!
I thought it took 12 courts
If the torque converter and cooler are drained. But getting 60 percent plus the filter out is pretty good. Thanks for watching!
I really wish GM people would do their homework, lol.
Pre 1987 Ford ATF's were replaced with Mercon, which was itself replaced by Mercon V; which were themselves designed to be backward compatible with previous Ford ATF's.
Mercon LV is not Mercon four, six, or even Fifty-five (which is what LV means in Roman numerals). It's (L)ow (V)iscosity. If your vehicle calls for LV, use LV.
Sorry, I literally just watched another one of yall's vids where you're calling Mercon LV, mercon 4, and I'm genuinely concerned someone might not do their own homework, and mess up their car thinking LV is compatible with V....
I was told by a Ford chemical engineer that Mercon V is backward compatible with Mercon applications but not in transfer case applications. I have done plenty of homework as I own a 2005 F150 4x4 and I wanted to correct fluid for it.
Mercon V getting $$ and hard to find. Valvoline MaxLife ATF is compatible With Mercon V and easier to find
@@geraldevans2535 I was about to replay saying Maxlife IS NOT compatible then I pulled up the latest label. They have changed the recommendations. Before Maxlife was compatible with Mercon LV, Dexron 2, 3, 6. Now it says basically all Dexron and all Mercon. I have to question this as Mercon LV is NOT compatible with Mercon 5 but Maxlife is claiming their oil is. Mercon 5 was a higher viscosity oil (almost 20W) while the earlier Mercon was around 15W (or slightly less.). Dexron 3 was about 15W and then went to about 10W or so with Dexron 6 and Mercon LV. I had been a HUGE fan of Valvoline Maxlife and used it in my Taurus and Kias and found transmissions to function better with it than factory oil (especially the Kias).
@@HockeyGoon939 I changed fluid in my 02 f150 about 2 years ago and used Valvoline Max Life. No problems at all.
Why tf is there no drain plug for it? That’s so dumb
Because its not a Chevy
@@Mike-su8si Thank God.
why not weld a drain plug on the bottom of the pan - lazy design
So you have to take it to the dear basically. Thanks for watching!
Ugliest battery i have ever seen.
Other than that great video.
Yeah it was gross. Thanks for watching!
Youre the ugliest battery I've ever seen.
12:24 just put the damn thing on.. if its going to spark its going to spark even if you touch the terminal twice.. that just sounded stupid
If it sparks and blows up due to gasses leaking out you don't want to leave it connected. So touching it slightly to make sure it won't spark is a good practice. A GM electrical engineer told me this so I'm inclined to believe it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!