I've tried this before. I usually follow up with a 1/4 thick 6x9 piece of glass and some 1500 wet sandpaper to flatten out any imperfections and create a better surface finish. 5-10 minutes and it looks like it came from a machine shop. The first few strokes with the sandpaper really tell you how aggressive those nyalox wheels can be to aluminum, on iron, different story. Can't wait to see how she looks after a nice bath!
Man, I hate to give you a hard time - but that's really tough on a deck surface (on aluminum). The major problem is with MLS style gaskets they require a certain RMS finish to seal good. Now, can you use one of those bristle brushes and it still seal fine - sure. Is it the 'right way'? Not if you ask a machinist, most will chastise you, lol. good luck with it, hopefully it doesn't give you any trouble. My rookie years, I did something similar, and didn't have good results :-/
I've been doing this exact method for 15 years without an issue, it requires common sense to not dig in extremely hard, but these don't dig into metal almost at all. Although I usually finish it off by a long block and sand paper and giving it a quick scruff to insure it's right.
So what is the correct way that the average person can do at home for a deck and head surface? Im planning on installing a cam in an aluminum 5.3 for a project and will need to pull the head to delete the DOD lifters.
@@DillonTurner395 theres any number of ways that work. I use a razor blade and drag it along the deck surface - it will peel up most anything. From there some maroon scotch brite by hand and acetone/lacquer thinner to clean it up
The scuff ball from harbor freight works even better. You put it on an air powered die grinder. I did exactly this when I built my sbc it takes about 15 seconds for each bank. Now I use it any time I need to clean a gasket surface.
I did the same only thing I did was I hit it with a scotch brite 400 grit had pad look gorgeous but it suck cause I found 2 crack sleeves so had to rebuild the motor
kind of an old video, but what are the chances you know where to get that bit you used? I was gonna do a roloc from 3m but they can be a little abrasive, this would be better
If you can get your hands on a sharpening stone to run across the deck surface it will show you any low spots, I haven't seen those brushes used on a LS motor, but a few years ago mechanics around us were having an issue where those fiber or green plastic disks were eating away the aluminum deck surface when they cleaned off the gasket material to do new head gaskets and they wouldn't seal up, so my buddy who owns the shop wouldn't let them use those anymore, just a razor blade and a sharpening stone to make sure there aren't any low spots, plus the corrosion from the antifreeze would eat around the ports bad enough to make it porous
I think I'm going to run straight gasket (no copper spray) to test and show worst case... The gaskets in my truck right now are interesring. I copper sprayed them last time I put them in, but didn't copper spray or clean anything this time... Time will tell, and I will share, lol.
Clean is not flat looks like about a 120+ ra at best. May get some life out of it if you use a composite or fiber gasket. If you are going to use a mls take it to a shop and have it decked. Get the RA under 60
@@BlaserBuildsI am currently rebuilding BMW S85 V10 engine, aluminum block which is similar, do you think this method would work? And what is the brush type you used ?
Awesome!! This is what i need to get ahold of i passed on a gen3 5.3 the other week kinda wish i didnt but they never heard it run and it was oddly clean on the outside so i was a little concerned with that lol
I use those to thin metal. I blast with coal slag leaving micro dimples that smooth down to depth with the nylon wheels. Voila you have an acid dipped car for a very little money. So bottom line is they do take metal down in a timely fashion.
I bought the same 120 grit item from ace hardware but my block took about 2 hours each side. Not sure if it's because of the mileage or if I didn't have the exact same attachment.
I'm going to have to replace the cylinder head on my 94 Geo . 174,000 miles, but the valve guides on cylinder 3 are no good. If I idle for 5 minutes and then stomp it, puffs lil smoke. Not California smog inspection legal. the entire engine is made out of aluminum, so I'm going to have to resurface engine block. I'm basically doing the same thing, 2000 RPM drill . I'm going with the white cleaning disc, I think it's 120 grip 120 Grit. And I don't know if you've ever played air hockey before, but that's about how light I'm going to be going over the cylinder deck. I'm getting the cylinder head from Jegs, is $699. New injectors and fuel regulator, with other little bits here and there. I got to get it right the first time.
It’s ok to clean the block before you get it decked with that tool BUT take it to a reputable shop have the set it up to a .001 cut and it will scare the hell out of you! I’ve had blocks that I’ve had to cut almost .010 off to get the taper around the holes cleaned up. Spend 40 bucks on a carbide super scraper and it will work wonders. Treat it with care no hammers and it will not mark up aluminum blocks. Great product. Also easy off oven cleaner will remove 95% of the ls brown crap on the block with a power washer
What’s the name of this brush thing? I’m trying to find one online. Great video by the way! I was about to take mine to the machine shop lol. Glad I saw this
Even though this is probably just fine, if I were taking my block to a machine shop, I would default to having the pros deck the head surfaces. Can't think of a better way to spend $ 100
Taylor also used to not use a torque wrench for a lot of stuff that had specific, easily found, torque values. Despite having a torque wrench. He seems to be more legit these days for what it’s worth.
In the first minute I showed a "Plastic" brush on a drill that I said I got at the Local Hardware store for $9... If googling "Hardware store plastic drill brush" doesn't get you a general idea... I can't help anyways.
nylon bristle drill brush for anyone who wants to buy it. I know I am. That 3m white buffering wheel doesn't seem to be doing the job good enough. Plus people say it can harm the block worse than these nylon bristle brushes so definitely buying one to finish my rebuild of my 5.3.
I've tried this before. I usually follow up with a 1/4 thick 6x9 piece of glass and some 1500 wet sandpaper to flatten out any imperfections and create a better surface finish. 5-10 minutes and it looks like it came from a machine shop. The first few strokes with the sandpaper really tell you how aggressive those nyalox wheels can be to aluminum, on iron, different story. Can't wait to see how she looks after a nice bath!
For some odd reason I found that very relaxing to watch!👍👍
Yep those bristle attachments are nice, used them on my last rebuild. Also the roll-loc disk are awesome for iron surfaces, but not for aluminum.
Taylor actually stopped using that because it was damaging the block and used the proper 3m gasket wheels.
@a21bravo my point exactly about TR 😂
I would like to take a bridge gauge to it afterwards, also would like to know the RMS of the finish.
What was the answer
Do you have a link I only saw the 80 grit 1
MLS applications require a very low “Ra” finish. Your probably going to wanna use a coated aftermarket MLS after doing that!
Man, I hate to give you a hard time - but that's really tough on a deck surface (on aluminum). The major problem is with MLS style gaskets they require a certain RMS finish to seal good. Now, can you use one of those bristle brushes and it still seal fine - sure. Is it the 'right way'? Not if you ask a machinist, most will chastise you, lol. good luck with it, hopefully it doesn't give you any trouble. My rookie years, I did something similar, and didn't have good results :-/
I've been doing this exact method for 15 years without an issue, it requires common sense to not dig in extremely hard, but these don't dig into metal almost at all. Although I usually finish it off by a long block and sand paper and giving it a quick scruff to insure it's right.
cant do this to late model aluminum engines
So what is the correct way that the average person can do at home for a deck and head surface? Im planning on installing a cam in an aluminum 5.3 for a project and will need to pull the head to delete the DOD lifters.
@@DillonTurner395 theres any number of ways that work. I use a razor blade and drag it along the deck surface - it will peel up most anything. From there some maroon scotch brite by hand and acetone/lacquer thinner to clean it up
@@Mikermperformance what grit
This make me want to rebuild another engine, and I haven’t even cranked over my first one yet.
Bristle brush....I have one for my 4.5" angle grinder works great for deck surfaces
Dude, that turned out great! Best $9 ever imo
The scuff ball from harbor freight works even better. You put it on an air powered die grinder. I did exactly this when I built my sbc it takes about 15 seconds for each bank.
Now I use it any time I need to clean a gasket surface.
Which grit do you use?
Are you talking about the one that is the size of a softball?
I used a sharping stone yesterday on my 6.0 but I gotta try that brush
I did the same only thing I did was I hit it with a scotch brite 400 grit had pad look gorgeous but it suck cause I found 2 crack sleeves so had to rebuild the motor
How is the head gasket holding up?
This was one of the best diy videos
damn I needed this video like 2 weeks ago, Good job now I know what to use next time, I used brass bristle brushes tape to a reciprocating saw.
Hahahahahahaha making me laugh in 2020 good job lol. It's funny cause I thought about it for a second!
👌 Excellent results!
How's the engine been holding up?
@@CDXLIV444 Sold the car a few years ago, but I still see it around and talk to the owner once in a while. He hasn't had any issues.
@BlaserBuilds awesome, thanks man.
I do the same thing but I ground down the brush so it fits in a die grinder. It works wonders at higher rpms plus my drill was dying all the time
I still cant work out the brush youre using??
Is it just made out of nylon??
Yeah its just a nylon brush.
Like these.
www.ebay.com/itm/164150353048
Where did you get that attachment for your drill
Hardware store.
Can you use that with the pistons still in?
kind of an old video, but what are the chances you know where to get that bit you used? I was gonna do a roloc from 3m but they can be a little abrasive, this would be better
Found them on ebay. Nylon bristle drill brush...
Awesome, thank you!
If you can get your hands on a sharpening stone to run across the deck surface it will show you any low spots, I haven't seen those brushes used on a LS motor, but a few years ago mechanics around us were having an issue where those fiber or green plastic disks were eating away the aluminum deck surface when they cleaned off the gasket material to do new head gaskets and they wouldn't seal up, so my buddy who owns the shop wouldn't let them use those anymore, just a razor blade and a sharpening stone to make sure there aren't any low spots, plus the corrosion from the antifreeze would eat around the ports bad enough to make it porous
I think I'm going to run straight gasket (no copper spray) to test and show worst case... The gaskets in my truck right now are interesring. I copper sprayed them last time I put them in, but didn't copper spray or clean anything this time... Time will tell, and I will share, lol.
a21bravo as always thanx for trying it and saving me the trouble of figuring out what works and what doesn’t!
Clean is not flat looks like about a 120+ ra at best. May get some life out of it if you use a composite or fiber gasket. If you are going to use a mls take it to a shop and have it decked. Get the RA under 60
Take it to a shop, spend money elsewhere instead of getting it fucking done and on the road. Great mentality.
How did this seal for you? Any problems? I have to do my 4g63 soon for the 2nd time. Piston rings are shot.
No issue, still in the car twin turbo set up...
@@BlaserBuildsI am currently rebuilding BMW S85 V10 engine, aluminum block which is similar, do you think this method would work? And what is the brush type you used ?
what is the sanding wheel???
So that being a 08+ aluminum 5.3 is it the Siamese bore with the thicker sleeves? Might have a boostaholic block on your hands 👍🏻
Yes, Siamese bore.
Awesome!! This is what i need to get ahold of i passed on a gen3 5.3 the other week kinda wish i didnt but they never heard it run and it was oddly clean on the outside so i was a little concerned with that lol
I thought cast iron gen 3 is what you need for boost??
I tried this out and it works great.
When you reuse the headgaskets do you also clean those surfaces with your roloc?
It won't hurt, but I've reused without cleaning.
Reuse head gaskets lol
@@noelleonard2498been done for years
Will try on zinc carb . body surfaces to remove tacky " gasket goo " ?
What store has this cleaning thing
Hardware store, or Amazon nylon cup brush.
I use those to thin metal. I blast with coal slag leaving micro dimples that smooth down to depth with the nylon wheels. Voila you have an acid dipped car for a very little money. So bottom line is they do take metal down in a timely fashion.
Whats the material made out of ? Name of it?
It looks orange to me. anybody else? Or I'm just going color blind?
Definitely clear. Haha. Yes it's orange, just having a little fun.
😆😂
I bought the same 120 grit item from ace hardware but my block took about 2 hours each side. Not sure if it's because of the mileage or if I didn't have the exact same attachment.
Looks perfect thanks for sharing
damn that thing rocks
i would've loved to have this when rebuilding my bike those gaskets get stuck like no other. I used chemicals and lot of time with a blade
Got a lq9 and some 706 heads I need to finish, getting clean for install. Did this end up sealing ok when you tossed on the heads ?
Yeah, no issues.
@@BlaserBuilds how many miles
Did you happen to try this on the casting in the side where it’s more aggressive? Turned out good tho!
I'm going to have to replace the cylinder head on my 94 Geo . 174,000 miles, but the valve guides on cylinder 3 are no good. If I idle for 5 minutes and then stomp it, puffs lil smoke. Not California smog inspection legal. the entire engine is made out of aluminum, so I'm going to have to resurface engine block. I'm basically doing the same thing, 2000 RPM drill . I'm going with the white cleaning disc, I think it's 120 grip 120 Grit. And I don't know if you've ever played air hockey before, but that's about how light I'm going to be going over the cylinder deck. I'm getting the cylinder head from Jegs, is $699. New injectors and fuel regulator, with other little bits here and there. I got to get it right the first time.
It’s ok to clean the block before you get it decked with that tool BUT take it to a reputable shop have the set it up to a .001 cut and it will scare the hell out of you! I’ve had blocks that I’ve had to cut almost .010 off to get the taper around the holes cleaned up. Spend 40 bucks on a carbide super scraper and it will work wonders. Treat it with care no hammers and it will not mark up aluminum blocks. Great product. Also easy off oven cleaner will remove 95% of the ls brown crap on the block with a power washer
What grit is that?
120
@@BlaserBuilds what is that sanding disc? where do i buy ?
What’s the name of this brush thing? I’m trying to find one online. Great video by the way! I was about to take mine to the machine shop lol. Glad I saw this
Nylalox by Disco Products
I got mine at a lock hardware store
What grit
Hone the cylinders before you get it. Washed
That's the plan, make all the dirt now.
Grab a bowl put mineral spirits in it dip your brush in it and it'll be cleaner than factory!with less effort than doing this dry
good tip thanks
🤜💥🤛
are you this dudes brother?
@@johnjesus971 yep
Wow, that works great. Did that one brush do the whole block?
Yes, doesn't look very worn either.
@@BlaserBuilds do you have a link for the brush?
@@philbetthauser9547 I'll try to find one like it. I briefly looked today but didn't see it.
@@philbetthauser9547 www.amazon.com/Dico-541-780-21-Nyalox-2-Inch-Orange/dp/B00004YYD1/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=120+grit+bristle+brush&qid=1551906176&s=automotive&sr=1-2-catcorr
Yeah and it will do alot more.....I've done 4 with mine and it's just barely showing its wear
Pretty slick, I'll have to give that a try
Bearing destroyer method.
4 years in a drift car 🤷♂️ Seems to be fine...
Yeah ok. Lets see how the motor runs...
Good thing there's videos...
Good video
I watch a RUclipsr who could be your older brother. If you’re into guns his channel is Warrior Poet Society (John Lovell) is the guy. Haha
I thought thje same thing
Even though this is probably just fine, if I were taking my block to a machine shop, I would default to having the pros deck the head surfaces. Can't think of a better way to spend $ 100
JD Carguy the same guy who he got this idea from ruined his block doing this with this tool. Don’t do it.
Hopefully not in this case.
@@mrmidnight32 Taylor ray ruined his block cleaning off gasket
Taylor also used to not use a torque wrench for a lot of stuff that had specific, easily found, torque values. Despite having a torque wrench. He seems to be more legit these days for what it’s worth.
It’s 300 to resurface I’ve been calling
Orange*
SOOOOO GLAD you mentioned what that thing was...Gee so much help. LEARNED JACK SHIT
In the first minute I showed a "Plastic" brush on a drill that I said I got at the Local Hardware store for $9... If googling "Hardware store plastic drill brush" doesn't get you a general idea... I can't help anyways.
Its a nylon wire brush
Good god man, it’s called a 3M rolock pad. What your using is garbage
Great video bro . I used red scotch bright + die grinder , works great too
Nice...I have cleaned aluminum decks before with hard plastic scrapers but seeing the machining marks remain seals it for me, THANKS !
Garbage, wrong way to do it
nylon bristle drill brush for anyone who wants to buy it. I know I am. That 3m white buffering wheel doesn't seem to be doing the job good enough. Plus people say it can harm the block worse than these nylon bristle brushes so definitely buying one to finish my rebuild of my 5.3.