Great video. Just happen to stumble on it right as I started to clean my block. I especially appreciate the sand paper grit info. For some reason I could not find info on what grit MLS gaskets require, just RA surface ratings. So 20RA is roughly 220 grit? 3:22
@ How-To Motorcycle Repair Do you have a video on showing how to do aluminum LS cylinder heads on a flat surface and sandpaper that require near mirror finish for MLS head gaskets?
Where did you get that sprayer so i can get one? Great video by the way. Ive done around 7 head gasket repairs for me, friends, and family and yes it does work very well for anybody who would say its not a good idea. As long as your a common sense person.
I think its worth noting to do the detail work first, that way your overall wash cleans up that mess. For instance knock the cam bearings out first and then run a pipe cleaner through those passages.
The aluminum block with sand paper is a good method. It should taken to a machine shop to be surfaced flat. I do something similar but somewhat easier for block and head, cast or aluminum. What I have is a long machinist file. It is true flat. After rasor blade cleaning and brake cleaner I do as you did with the block sander. The advantage with the file is that there is no grit to worry about. Also before and a few time as I am filing I check flatness with a machinist bar. Your spec sheet gives the acceptable flatness. On many things it is 2 or three thousands.
For LS its .004" on deck and head, so if you're paying attention and checking constantly it's pretty hard to screw this up. LS is pretty forgiving until you're going for stupid power then obviously you want that to be as tight as you can.
nah machine shops take to damn long are are very over priced, shops by me theyre multiple months out and some customers over a year so they can piss off
If you have a good honest machinist than yeah it's worth it, but some shops are ridiculous pricey because they know people are too afraid to try things on their own
Great video. Just happen to stumble on it right as I started to clean my block. I especially appreciate the sand paper grit info. For some reason I could not find info on what grit MLS gaskets require, just RA surface ratings. So 20RA is roughly 220 grit? 3:22
Very helpful video!
At time stamp 14:50 use 3/16 brake line and slip your wire through. You can push/pull the brush.
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What size is that pice of aluminum ??
@ How-To Motorcycle Repair Do you have a video on showing how to do aluminum LS cylinder heads on a flat surface and sandpaper that require near mirror finish for MLS head gaskets?
On the thread pitch tool can I use? A M11x1.5?
@@ballingonabudgetlsbuilder5930 no way
I cleaned my block out of old gasket materials I didn't use sand paper , my block is clean and shiny and not warped , do I still need to use sanding ?
Yes
@@ezradixon239 no
Where did you get that sprayer so i can get one? Great video by the way. Ive done around 7 head gasket repairs for me, friends, and family and yes it does work very well for anybody who would say its not a good idea. As long as your a common sense person.
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17:07 - transmission fluid does not usually contain any detergents ... why would it?
This is wrong. Transmission fluud do contain detergents.
What detergents would be added and for what purpose?
Anti-foam, yes.
Anti-wear, yes.
EP and VII, yes
Detergents... why?
They used to contain them in higher amounts. This is good practice regardless. Clean and lube until assembly
Will that work on a aluminum LS1 block?
Heck yeah man. Sponsorship is freakin awesome. Lookin good 👍
Thank you!
I think its worth noting to do the detail work first, that way your overall wash cleans up that mess. For instance knock the cam bearings out first and then run a pipe cleaner through those passages.
Did u use 180 first then 220 to finish?
Is there a reason for using glass paper designed for wood as opposed to wet/dry or emery designed for metal?
It is what I had
The aluminum block with sand paper is a good method. It should taken to a machine shop to be surfaced flat. I do something similar but somewhat easier for block and head, cast or aluminum. What I have is a long machinist file. It is true flat. After rasor blade cleaning and brake cleaner I do as you did with the block sander. The advantage with the file is that there is no grit to worry about. Also before and a few time as I am filing I check flatness with a machinist bar. Your spec sheet gives the acceptable flatness. On many things it is 2 or three thousands.
For LS its .004" on deck and head, so if you're paying attention and checking constantly it's pretty hard to screw this up. LS is pretty forgiving until you're going for stupid power then obviously you want that to be as tight as you can.
16:22 whats the weird spot on the block. Lower right corner kinda shaped like a square above the one bolt hole.
Cooling passage in head and gasket. Parts are symmetric and hole in block exists in other side.
Thanks bro
I would use a light lube when chasing threads.
About time!
Tell me about it!
By the time you bought all these tools, you could have spent the same amount getting it resurfaced..
It depends on where you live too though. Machine shops around me are ridiculously priced
nah machine shops take to damn long are are very over priced, shops by me theyre multiple months out and some customers over a year so they can piss off
But then you wouldn't be here because there wouldn't be a video and he wouldn't be able to do his friends LS next.
Good Video #operationls
It feels better when you do it all yourself
If you have a good honest machinist than yeah it's worth it, but some shops are ridiculous pricey because they know people are too afraid to try things on their own
holy crap this guy knows nothing about sanding