Heat on a boat! Chinese forced air diesel heater install
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- Опубликовано: 20 мар 2021
- I install an inexpensive version of a diesel forced air heater on my sailboat.
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A few quick suggestions from someone who puts wet stuff on hot stuff for a living and has responded to a few vans/RV's burned down by those types of heaters.
1 - Get a bit more space and heatproof insulation between the exhaust pipe and the wood from the wall. Those pipes usually pass thru a metal wall on a vehicle.
2 - The exhaust pipe on those get crazy hot, even with a double sleeved pipe you'll want to keep it away from anything combustible.
3 - The fuel line is awfully close to the exhaust pipe. I would protect it or at least put a heat shield..
2 - As with any combustion based heater, make 110% sure you have at least one working smoke detector AND carbon monoxide detector mounted inside the cabin.Have a few working extinguishers.
Don't forget that at sea you can't just call the Fire Dept or "walk away" so fire on a boat is a MAJOR problem.
Great tips. I will do all these things
Great Advice, this is nothing to F*** with!
Qq
amen
I have this kind china heater and its works great. I have all these thinks solve and im happy my heater. China heater about 350$ and original 2000$
Sam is looking more haggard living on land than he does on a long passage at sea 😂. Love it!
He’s turning into Ben Gunn from Disney’s Treasure Island, after being marooned!
Haha. He does.
Looooollll I was thinking the same! Looks like he cut his hair in today's video though.
Sam for your Safety you might consider a simple inexpensive Carbon Monoxide Detector just incase of a unexpected defect in the heaters core. Great seeing all your progress!
Honestly that's 0 worry. Diesel releases 0 to no carbon monoxide. And with the exhaust being mounted on the outside of the boat. That will be no issue. Diesel is safer to be around then any other gasoline type
@@garrettkogelschatz9705 Good to know. You enlightened me.
@@johnhanselman6371 I read the part that you said about the defect. And I can say now that maybe a dioxide level reader to go along with the monoxide would be a good thing for this "trusted" Chinese product😂😂😂
@bigfootgerry CO2 IS directly poisonous, IE CO2 poisoning .
@@garrettkogelschatz9705 dumbest shit ive ever heard, carbon monoxide is odorless and heavier then air. That diesel heater will kill you if the cabin is sealed decently and the carbon monoxide is filling up from the bottom. The fan also recirculates the air in the cabin no fresh air is added. Telling someone not to worry about something that can be prevented with one simple detector is reckless.
These heaters are GREAT! We installed one on our 36 footer and the dry air makes a WORLD of difference.
Dude, I just asked for this diesel heater install video. Your the best Sam.
Sam trust me. You will need to exhaust to be pointed down. It will collect water and corrode rather quickly.
This really is getting to be the Sam and Dave show. "I'm a sail man"........
Love it!
I installed one of these on my 45' sloop in December of 2020. It works great. Many complain about pump noise but it not an issue for us. On a day below freezing it'll maintain heat at about 65 degrees after an hour or so. I installed a 12 gal diesel tank dedicated just for heater. We love it!
Nice. Something like that might actually get my wife to go on longer trips with me. Be sure to invest in a good *low level* CO sensor. Not a Home Depot type. They don't go off until the CO is dangerous. Get a good one.
Great Video. I’ve seen many Camper / Van Dwellers use that exact model. One thing they all noted was that the Fuel Pump should be at a 15-45 degree angle. Keep up the great content. Looking forward to more of the DIY projects.
Now time for a trip to Antarctica !
Sam, I installed one of these in my work shed, and it works great, hope you have as much luck as I have. That fuel pump can be pretty loud, but there's a fix for that. I saw this on another channel (wish I could remember to give the guy credit), but what he and I did, was to suspend the little pump and rubber bracket in the air (using zip ties), rather than securing it to a bulk head. It cut the "clunk, clunk" noise by probably 75%. Food for thought if the current configuration becomes aggravating.
The controller has a manual prime mode. I believe you hold down 'ok' and the power button to get to that mode. You should look into the Afterburner controller if you want to upgrade to some fancier features and have more control.
I noticed that in the manual but couldn’t get it to work. I figured it was for a version with a different control panel.
Great choice I think, especially for the money. I just have a phobia about plastic fuel lines though. It might be unreasonable but I prefer a good, high quality, metal fuel line.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
On a sailboat you should Mount your heater in a four-and-aft orientation with the combustion air intake and exhaust pointed downwards. You need to install an exhaust elbow that has a condensation drain. Sure Marine in Seattle sells all the parts you need for a proper sailboat installation. You need to use proper exhaust tubing and insulate it. All exhaust connections need to be properly sealed with high temp silicone exhast sealant. For best anti condensation performance you should take air to be heated from outside the boat with a duct. This will also ensure that the air your heater is bringing in is fresh and does not contain exhaust fumes. Of course you should include a CO detector.
I simply took the air from the cockpit. Ran intake hose to a through hull mounted on cockpit coaming. Have a shutoff valve so no 2ater enters when in tougher conditions. My exhaust runs inside a galvanized schedule 40 pipe and which is wrapped with exhaust wrap. My theatre is bulkhead mounted, also a sheet of Mylar separates theatre from wood.
Props to whoever bought this little beast! Such a kind thing to do.... 👍
Very cool, seal that up great! No exhaust in the boat!
I've read/watched so many of these diesel heaters, they do sound perfect for drying out the cabin and a bit of warmth. Get a spare pump for your kit and you'll be all set, as I think that's the only part that is not super reliable.
That's exactly what I was thinking while I watched this.
I had to replace the glow plug almost immediately on mine. No problems since then. I will take a spare for any cruising not during the summer.
You will love the heater, I have one on my semi and it will run you out of the truck even in below zero temps. Mine uses around .7 gallons of fuel in 10 hours.
Great job Sam! I'm surprised you got that done so fast. You are really getting skilled with these projects.
Sam, you continue to amaze with your skills. It will be very nice to have heat especially on cold and rainy days. 👍👍👍💕
Sam, I have installed one of these in our mobile home, make sure you have good clearance for your exhaust and some sort of shroud around the entire length of the exhaust because it will burn wood. If you use the heated air hose this will also scorch wood if it is located too close. I have also rebuilt ours several times because the bearings failed in the original unit. Very easy to do and only costs a few dollars for good bearings and new brushes. They are great heaters and I have installed in my wife's room in our home because she suffers from arthritis and this heating is most economical and very efficient . Because of their cost I now have two so I have a replacement when one needs service and have spare pump and controller. I run the heater of a battery which is charged by a solar panel so it covers us in case of a power failure. I have found that I get about 2500 hour use between services but our diesel tend to leave a soot buildup fairly quickly. This can be alleviated by running the heater at maximum heat for about 10 minutes now and again. I have also run the heater on a kero diesel mix of 1:20 which is also effective at keeping the combustion chamber clean. The main problem I have had is the screen which surrounds the glow plug will become clogged with carbon especially running at low power settings which will prevent the heater from starting. I always carry spares and tools to replace these and the two gaskets and it is an easy job.
Watch that fuel line isn’t laying against anything, you’ll eventually rub a hole in it.👍 Good work Sam!
You can fix anything. I bet you could fix the crack of dawn! You are also very lucky to have someone to hep you.
I'm happy to see that you're going to be more comfortable now with a forced air heater that's nice inexpensive can't wait to see you back on the water sailing Sam you make good videos anyway be safe there God bless you Ray Garrett from Roseville California USA
Seems like a great choice for your boat. You can always add another jerry can of fuel for long passages.
I've used this exact same model for about two years now and I am very happy with it. Only issue I've had is slight misalignment when the unit is cold causing the fan to hit the fan shroud. But It's been great otherwise. You should have many years of service!
It seems that a cold boat is colder than a cold car. Having heat is a good thing.
Great choice Sam, these get Rave reports here in Europe, only downside is the ‘clicking’ from the diesel feed, that can be irritating, check out the mod on RUclips to silence it forever 👍😃
The difference in propane and diesel is the propane exhaust creates water, the burning of propane produces water as a byproduct of the reaction, the diesel only heats the air by passing it over very hot fins around the combustion chamber, so moisture in the air is further heated causing the vapor to rise. And since the combustion reaction is isolated from the heating process the toxic exhaust is released separately. Biggest benefit of propane is the burn reaction is practically harmless, diesel heater on the other hand requires detailed care with handling the exhaust by using high temp silicone to further seal junctions and fittings.
You choose correctly. I have been leaning this way too.
Forced air was def the right choice, nice toasty clean air.
Found your LA to Hawaii video and soon found the rest of your videos really enjoyable to watch. My brother and I dream of learning to sail and going on a trip one day.
Make sure to not use that muffler included in the kit. It's not sealed and will leak exhaust gases. It's made for installation under a car, where that doesn't matter, but in a boat it would be dangerous.
Look on the Chinese diesel heater group on facebook, you would have found theres a simple way to prime built into the controller and u can change the hertz to Celsius. Another really big upgrade is an afterburner controller. Also the green hose and filter are basically junk. I swapped for better quality line and a john Deere filter.
The diesel heater Mechanics are going to be mad for this one because they will charge you a couple hundred to fix your heater when it plugs up.... The trick for all of the diesel heaters that the heater mechanic's don't tell you is every 3 or 4 months you need to run Kerosene through the heater to blow out the carbon build up. its easy to do, just cut the fuel line before the fuel pump and stick the hose in a gal of Kerosene and run it on high for a hour or two. ( Make sure the fuel line is long enough to fit to the bottom of the gal of Kerosene) I use a 3 way valve or just cut the line and use a bigger hose with hose clamps to splice it back together to run your diesel again. I like the 3 way valve with a hose hanging from it because a turn of the switch and I'm running Kerosene or diesel without turning the heater off. Running the heater on low setting will build up the carbon faster. Good luck. I've had a Planar diesel heater for 5 years now in the PNW and no problems. Kerosene can be ran through all forced air diesel heaters and it cleans everything inside. Igniter, glow plug, screen and combustion chamber ect. It will smoke when cleaning and a clean heater burns less diesel. $8.00 dollars for a gal of Kerosene from Walmart last me 2 years. enjoy your new heater. I also wrapped my exhaust with header exhaust wrap from any auto parts store and you can grab it any time without getting burnt
Always good content by Sam Holmes.
This man deserves more subscribers❤️❤️❤️
Great video!
I mounted the exact same unit on my boat. Works great but it leaks a little diesel from the burn chamber because I mounted it on it's side instead of the intake and exhaust coming out of the bottom. It's not bad just can smell diesel in the boat. Going to have to redo it in the future.
My friend, by installing that heater, you are an old man.....blankets will now be exquisite along with Labradors.
Warmth!
Nice. That dodger in the background is looking good, shiny
The diesel heater the Chinese have imitated is an Eberspacher. You need to heed Pat D comments; you are going to get a fire without insulating that exhaust. Add a separate tank for the heater . Your current set up is fine for a day boat but not your purpose and you will get an air lock very quickly..Do really need a 1" hole for a 5mm wire in your panel.
Love my Espar!
Sam, the fuel pump needs to be mounted at a 45° angle!!!
I have the same heater in a box waiting to install on my #Flicka20
It is a good one, I have the same. You can build self made silencer for the vent. Also do not make a hard connection between fuel pump and boat. The click sound makes you crazy. Take two or three lines and tie it up.
Hi -
you should consider to get a fresh-airintake. I did install a forced-air-heater on my boat last spring, taking fresh (cold-air) from the ouside instead of cycling the cabin-air takes a bit longer to heat the cabin but gets the moisture out. Cycling the cabin-air just heats it, but the cold air from the outside is carrying less moisture, so if you blow that in the cabin (heated) it takes moisture out of the cabin…
It made quite a difference on my boat.
In addition my heater (autoterm 2d) can be switched to ventilation only, it turns out great on a rainy summer day, when you can‘t open the portlights!
Great videos, greatings from Germany!
Sebastian
Building codes call for MINIMUM ONE INCH TO COMBUSTIBLES on chimney flues.....
Delos installed one of these and had issues with condensation as well so be aware of possible mold issues, this is even true in campers and vans that install these as well!
Great video, I'm building in mine now!
Sam, another 'good install'. But you already know that, so sail on my friend. Can't wait for you to get the boat in the water, you've done a ton of good work.
no wayy haha, my dad just installed this same heater on our boat, awesome
You are pimpin the 🥒 out !! Thanks for video
I had those in my semi truck. Thry work great
Sam the heater's start up taking lots of amps but drops down after initial start-up
A lots of van conversion use them and they seem a to be a great buy
Pretty cool
We install these in vans here in Colorado, typically the webasto and espar but the Chinese versions are really catching up these days!
One thing, at low, if running a similar burn cycle as webasto, the heater will cycle the glow plug and start up after every time it rests so it will use the most amps actually overnight. If you are low on battery run the heater on high and the burn stays continuous and therefore the glow plug doesn’t cycle 👍
Also, get a dryer vent hose and you can attach it to the outlet plenum and direct air to wet places on the boat or your bed to pre warm on particularly chilly nights. In addition, at the price point, carrying a whole second setup on a longer journey where heat is vital would be a good idea. I hear the Chinese setups aren’t as clear with diagnostics to tell you the problem as the Espar/webasto. I always have a rebuild kit for my webasto in my van as I live year round in the mountains. Stoked for you! (Fire heater pun) cheers.
I bought on of those things for my van. The only downside is the ticking. The fuel pump does not produce much head pressure, so the fuel tank needs to be mounted above the heater.
Great video on how not to install a diesel heater on a boat. Personally I wouldn't have fitted it to the bulk head. The heat from the exhaust manifold will turn the wood into charcoal and combust eventually. Also you should throw the silencer away because they leak like hell. Get the aluminium exhaust hose and bin the fuel pipe that comes with the kit.
good stuff, thanks
Awesome please share how it worksout for you maybe a 30 day review ...having dry heat would be great to help dry out boat and keep mold at bay.
This is a great channel!
they are good heaters
I've got some experience with the Eberspacher heaters and if I remember correctly the fuel pump had to be mounted at an angle- not sure if that matters with this one.
I think the increased electrical load will be more than worth the trade off in cold weather. A few more solar panels and a standby generator for cloudy days.
Nice 👍
dude, buy a "turret plate" for your heater!!! - its a mounting plate with the shield to protect the surface around the exhaust outlet. as mentioned by others you've got quite the fire hazard there where it penetrates the bulkhead!
I have this exact same heater installed in my boat shed, and the eexhaust outlet gets hot enough to glow red... there is also an aftermarket controller called the "afterburner" that allows more tweaking of the parameters and is a little less chinese-y
Haha.im installing mine now.see you in Norway for that beer!!!
Def need a carbon monoxide dector plus smoke dector and fire extinguisher near by! Def have a fuel shut off too and put a heat shield between the exhaust and fuel lines
Gidday Sam, i'd be checking out mounting the heater on its side as you eventually get diesel leaking from the glow plug hole. PS: love you're channel great to see you still go for a sail on youre mates boat during you're refit 👍😁
Yes propane really creates a lot of moisture. Dickinsons are the safest but take up a bit more space. I have one of these diesel heaters too. You need to make sure that there is either no dip in your exhaust or install a condensate loop from Espar. They build up condensation and will eventually soot completely up if the exhaust soot gets trapped in moisture inside the exhaust. Those exhausts and the muffler leak like a sieve carbon monox. Find a way to make it better.. Make sure you aren't using the muffler with the drip hole, it is meant to be outside...the drip hole pumps monox into the boat. Also run the sucker on high for a few minutes before shutting it off or it will soot up fast. A kerosene booster tank helps keep it cleaner. Also get another glow plug for it, they are hard to get and burn out at the most inopportune time. Expect to rebuild/desoot at 1000 hours, and install an hour meter on it. Most of those fuel pumps don't work well vertical and need to be at a 45degree angle. The heat outlet will do a number on the bulkhead if you don't get some kind of insulated mounting plate on there.
Since you can set the controller as a thermostat, running the heater automatic there is a change, if the heater is not fully powered off, it will turn on. No problem when wanted but easy to forget because it's quiet, when going away. If you have set a low voltage disconnect on the battery controller to protect the battery, 2 things happen. 1. A power shutdown while the heater running is very bad and dangerous. Since the fan quits too the remaining heat is not blown out, the heater is not cooled anymore. the heat can easy damage the heaterparts or worse!! 2.The heater (comfort user) has used up also the safety margin of battery power for essential equipment. That is an unwanted situation. So, before any power down from the battery controller happens, you want the heater to be able to go through the very important shutdown procedure. The most easy way is a voltage disconnect module set on a voltage higher than the one of the battery controller and/or much higher to have plenty of power for essential/safety equipment. This low voltage disconnect is not set into the 12 volt power to the heater, but in the powerline to the fuel pump. This way the pump stops, heater thinks there is a fuel problem, and goes into a proper shutdown procedure were the glowplug can burn off remaining fuel, and the fans can stil run to dump fuel gasses and cool down. On display resulting in an Error 04. You switch power on the controller "off". After enough recharging, You can switch the "on" button again and everything is normal. Low voltage disconnect modules are easy to get at amazon or Ali. some times an extra relais is needed. But doe check the on/of state with multimeter because those LVD's show often a different voltage than the actual voltage. Good luck with your projects and video's!
Great advice !!
This guy has a great seris on these things
You got heat now!! Time to sail to canada check out the bay of fundy and the Northumberland straight, warmest salt water north of Virginia! Cheers
Awesome, but the fuel filter is backwards, clear part faces the pump
Sam, great heater have had one meself on my boat; just keep an eye on the battery consumption . Might be worthwhile having a separate battery for it.
I put one of these in my camper and I love it.
A couple of things I’d recommend.
There’s lots of RUclips stuff about these. One in particular an Australian bloke has a whole series on Installing these and use. He explains the control panel in Detail.
Always bench test before you install it in case there’s a problem.
When you turn it off always let it go through the turn off procedures otherwise you’ll cook the electrics on the unit.
How did you end up installing the exhaust?
8:30 Burning propane produces water vapor and carbon dioxide. If it burns properly you don't need a special exhaust for it, which is why people use it in tents. Seems like it would be more comfortable to have the dry heat on a boat, rather than something producing additional humidity.
You are off to the races!
Fuel pump might not like the heat from exhaust. And I would make the holes behind mounting plate bigger so they don’t start to burn . I read the fuel pump is supposed to be on an angle .. cheers Sam
Nice install Sam. It should do the trip keeping you warm when you have no company on board :D
Check the manual, I seem to remember that the fuel pump needs to be mounted at a 45 degree angle. I hear of problems of this pump failing. You may want to have a spare....
Heaters cause even more mildew. Stay around the equator and warm air.
That should be nice on a chilly night
Have the exact version in my vw bus :)
Estoy muy feliz para ti. Buen trabajando.
"Just about sailing" channel has a mini series on this heater if you are looking for small boat tips. Plenty of channel have covered this heater. Best of luck
Hey Sam, check out a few videos of these, the muffler isn’t air tight, it’s designed for a truck, to be slung underneath. There are stainless marine alternatives for these heaters. Don’t kill yourself. Andy UK
correctly ,muffler for the ship .or exhaust repair cement.I smeared mine with cement.
@@drleon-vc7df I wouldn’t take the risk when there are good and inexpensive sealed units available.
@@AndyUK-Corrival I mean about 60 pounds, not a little.
@@drleon-vc7df Depends what price you put on a life.
@@AndyUK-Corrival :-))OK. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-Exhaust-Repair-Paste-Sealant-200g-3340/361333142339?hash=item5421223343:g:B8UAAOSw4PNffCSA reliable thing.
Hi Sam. I have an Espar so this may not apply. Mine is fused and ran direct to the battery as the heater needs to be a cool down when shutting off or damage can occur. A breaker may stop this from happening. Again, that isvfor an Espar per the authorized agent who sold and installed it. Good luck.
They wont run on long exhaust pipes. I had ordered the 6 foot pipe but would only work when I cut it down to approximately 4 ft. Struggles to push exhaust with the longer pipes. Creates a ton of white vapor when it fails to ignite
I installed my Chinese diesel heater on my 35-foot sailboat and the exhaust is 6ft and I have had zero problems. I have it attatched with a exhaust elbow that has a condensation drain coil on it. It has worked flawlessly with the longer exhaust.
Excellent real time -ish! Thanks. Sub’d &Bell’d
Sam, love your enthusiasm, do yourself a favor and look at the heater installs on "onboard lifestyle" Teal is a perfectionist but made special efforts to insulate the exhaust pipe and to route it to avoid water intrusion from a following sea.
I can explain the "propane heaters create more moisture" comment.
Consider the molecule for propane, C3H8. It is made of atoms of carbon and hydrogen bonded together. When you burn propane, the hydrogen and carbon atoms break their bonds, form new bonds with oxygen, and release heat.
C3H8 + 5 O2 ==> 3 CO2 + 4 H2O
Any time you burn something with hydrogen in oxygen, you produce water vapor. Burning diesel or propane produces water vapor and CO2. Most fires you see have a little dilute invisible super hot steam in their exhaust.
A propane catalytic converter burns propane inside your cabin. This tiny amount of steam is released inside your cabin, and when it eventually cools down, the air gets moist.
A diesel forced air heater burns diesel in a combustion chamber. A heat exchanger transfers the heat to your cabin air, but the exhaust (with the steam) is blown outside.
I have the same, you must install the pump at a forty five degree angle not straight up and down, see instructions
Interesting. Mine said it could be mounted vertically and seems to work fine that way.
Hey Sam I know you're getting the better exhaust but also get better fuel line for the unit, I've read the line that comes with it is super cheap and may become brittle fast.
-Larry ;)
They definitely used the cheapest line possible. Good idea
Thank you ! Who did you mention that did the video on various ways to heat a boat ?
Sam has this dream about buying some land, hes gonna give up the booze and the one night stands, and then he'll settle down In some quiet coastal town and forget about everything.
BBBWAAAAAA NNNNNNNAAANNAAAAAA!
Is this poetry?
@@FlyXenonRC it's a Gerry Rafferty song, it's called Baker Street. It's on RUclips, check it out, especially if you like sax solos.
Sam once told me "there's a girl out there, with love in her eyes and flowers in her hair."
But you know he'll always keep movin',
You know he's never gonna stop movin'
That hole below the control gauge 😱
Such a easy going way of installing project, I love it.
Can someone tell me if it is alright to install the heater flipped on the side 90 degrees the same way Sam is doing here?
Also is the any major disadvantages of having the airintake in the saloon as Sam is doing, other than maybe some extra noise?
I am planning on installing a similair heater and would prefer to install it inside the cabin if it sounds alright by other boaters?
Thanks