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Framing with LVL Studs - Pros, Cons, and Costs!
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2020
- I built my entire house from Engineered Lumber and in this video I'll give you a run down of the pros cons & costs with this lumber. I specifically used Laminated Veneer Lumber for my 9' studs and below is the spec page on the Boise Cascade website. Also, be sure to sign up for my weekly newsletter so you'll get all the updates from Build Show Network.
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Boise Cascade Spec Sheet for these LVL studs. www.bc.com/man...
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I’m renovating my own house and switched to LSL timberstands halfway through. I can appreciate the straightness and trueness of the stud. Framing was more like cabinet making then rough carpentry. The walls are dead flat and drywall friendly. However they are too dense. It took many trial an error to get nails into them. Adjusting air pressure, any ring on the nail forget it, had to be completely smooth and best is some lubricant was on the nail. The density varies greatly from stud to to stud. Some are granite rock hard and some are like oak or maple. One piece I used as a plate was so hard in the middle I had to drill pilot holes just to get the nail in without bending. And forget trying to pull a bent nail out. Try not to toenail on the drywall face of the stud because the head doesn’t sink. 80% of the nails had to be sunk with a hammer. There’s needs to be a bit more research and development before LSL’s take over the market and of course getting the cost down.
Though I'm still using standard lumber for most of my framing, there is one place that LVL lumber gets used every time for me - shower enclosures! You can achieve a perfectly flat wall, which makes installing large format tiles a breeze! The rigidity and stability of the LVL's also means the tile will be less likely to crack due to seasonal temperature and humidity changes making the framing move.
As an amateur that built quite a few showers over the years this seems like a really good idea to me. I always used Hardibacker and a downside to that is that shimming or leveling with thinset was necessary extra work if you were going for very flat walls. Using LVL's for framing in showers would give better results and might save money because of the reduced labor to achieve flat although it wouldn't help the mud guys.
@Marshal Downs great idea and a great use for a more expensive product to achieve a better quality finished job, you might think about using LVL in the kitchen for the same purpose but obviously for hanging cabinets.
@@OwainMeadmaker fantastic idea!
@@OwainMeadmaker It beats the heck out of buying an oversize stud and table sawing it down to get a straight edge. Which I've done.
Why not use metal studs? Or use a tile setter who knows how to float a wall?
I do most of my work within cities where row houses are the rule and fire codes prohibit use of lumber products for structural framing. And so we frame mostly in steel studs and joists. They're all NAS Grade (Nice and Straight)! It’s a very different technology and the labor to materials ratio is higher. There are pros and cons to steel framing but my next house for myself will be an all steel framing.
Engineered lumber doesn’t have the ability to absorb small leaks. If it does get wet and can’t dry (inside a wall cavity, for example) it will rot faster than dimensional lumber. I typically use regular CDX plywood sheathing on my engineered stud framed homes to provide more hygric-buffering than OSB sheathing offers
Colorado/ Front Range has pretty design high wind loads. Last large project had high ceilings (typically 12' or more in common areas) and very large windows. We used a lot of LVL, in 2x6 framed walls (and other framing locations, of course). Biggest advantage was at large windows. We used 2" polyiso continuous on the exterior, with "outie" window framing, complimented by 100% coverage with liquid applied self-sealing water/ vapor barrier. King studs were LVL, ripped to 5 1/2" above & below the openings, and ripped to 8" at the RO (so becomes the window box-out). LVL flat at 8" rip for sill and header box-out components, along with double LVL headers on concealed flange hangers, and std 2x6 below the sill LVL. Besides the window box-out being more securely integrated into the structure, there was a huge increase in bending moment at the king studs, first by being LVL, and then by the increased depth for the window height (often 8' +). This enabled us to almost completely eliminate the presumed steel in the walls at the king stud locations (except for the 24' high stair tower/ window wall). The advantage of no steel is the whole set of issues of attachment and transitions to/ from wood assemblies is therefore avoided, and framing techniques and fastening procedures are per standard. With continuous exterior insulation, the thermal bridging of steel was not really the issue, at least for us; it was all about the bending and eliminating steel columns at the windows.
We used 22,000' of LVL in this project, although the largest portion of the framing was actually std 2x's. All LVL came in as T/T loads of 48 or 60 footers. We had a panelization setup area, and the framing foreman simply did cut optimization. At the end, we had maybe 200' total scrap LVL material as waste.
Mr. Risinger, thank you, very much for making this series and bringing us along! The educational value is truly priceless. I appreciate your technical expertise. More important I appreciate your candor when discussing best building practices, products, and yes, even mistakes. Thank you, sincerely 👍
cmm170526 very well said, cmm. I’m a little above bit above average (completed an entire rehab of a 1928 shot-gun house) and find this channel fascinating!
Speaking of ceiling height, I made an amazing observation recently. I am an architect who recently designed a kitchen rehab for a client who recently purchased a well built early 1960s bespoke owner-designed “ranch” style house with 7’-6” ceilings! The original owners were Frank Lloyd Wright fans...although the house looks fairly conventional from the outside.
The effect is surprisingly good as the ceiling forces the eye through and around the open plan and out towards beautiful views framed by floor-to-ceiling windows.
I would never have thought 7’-6” would work so well. A very counterintuitive design approach by the original owners.
Nice vid BTW Matt. Love those 1.125” sub-floors. You can always say you’re sequestering carbon.
Thank U again, a few years away from retirement, researching now to build my retirement home.
Wish you were in Omaha, I wouldve had you build my house in a heartbeat. You can tell you actually care about building quality, and have passion for what you do. Excellent videos. God bless
It would be nice to see a marriage of the LVL technology & the insulated Tstud that you covered about a year ago. I love LVL's
Don't need insulated studs in a post frame baby
@@justinballard7242 ???
@@frankpratt529 post frame house has 8 foot bays of insulation
No studs to loose insulation value
@@justinballard7242 But we're not talking about timber framing. This is a conventional framing discussion
A few years ago, I was at a hearing in New Jersey. The fire department was complaining that the engineered lumber products don't have the same fire rating as a regular 2 by. Firemen were being injured, when a home with engineered lumber collapses too quickly. The firemen wanted more time to fight the fire and rescue tenants. They were requesting that fire suppression systems be required in homes built with engineered beams and trusses. I don't know if regulations were ever put in place. This is big point to consider when building a home.
Here in MD "all" new construction homes must have sprinklers installed. Any additions then must meet these guidelines as well. I'm a deck and Screen porch builder and luckily we don't have to sprinkle porches. What a pain that would be.
All wall assemblies need to meet minimum UL standards. Lvl or otherwise. All, even in standard framed homes, many structural components like beams and headers will often be lvl or glulam. So I'm not sure what they're concerned about specifically
It's a major problem with I-joists, because burning out the web in the middle turns the joists into crap. Floor trusses have similar issues, the large cavities allow fire to spread quickly (draftstopping required by code) and the metal plates weaken quickly when exposed to house fire temperatures.
LVL beams are less of a risk, because they're wood all the way through and char at a similar rate to wood, but still act as fire risks and can weaken quickly exposed to house fire temperatures. So would steel, though. The open floor plan homes means there's a lot more beams and a lot less drywall/plaster containment, and they can collapse quickly because house fires burn so hot.
Sprinklers are a fantastic idea, if you can't do that then wrap LVL beams with drywall to buy more time for the firefighters (ignition barriers don't act as a thermal barrier, and the heat will weaken the beam significantly).
Matt big fan of the videos.
LVL does not alter the direction of the grain between plies. The thickness of the veneer in the plies is the same as plywood for the most part. The strength and stiffness of the I joist is really more about the flanges. Look at the tables. Stronger joists have bigger flanges, same OSB. The OSB does control for shear.
I can't even keep the days straight anymore. I didn't realize it was Tuesday! Time for the Build Show!
Thanks Matt for keeping us entertained during COVID-19. Looking forward to Friday's segment.
A suggestion for a segment that you might wish to consider is going over the cost, with hard numbers, of some of the projects you have done in the past. Suggestions would be a passive house, constructing a Bensonwood home, the cost of doing your home redo, etc. It would ground people who view your videos in the reality of how much things cost so they can view it with that perspective.
It's great to learn about new applications for existing technologies, even if they aren't feasible for every project. Well done.
No question LVL's are straighter and stronger than conventional lumber but, especially with lumber prices being what they are right now, I can only imagine what they cost. The only place I have concern with the framing you used is in the engineered floor joists. They are stiff (no bounce like a 2x8 or 2x10) but all their strength is dependent on the 1/2" sheet between the frame. I've always wondered what would happen in a fire. I have to imagine that sheet would burn pretty quickly and all you are left with is a 2/3" piece of wood (on it's side) carrying the floor. I have to imagine that the floor would be compromised pretty quickly.
I've always been fascinated with home building. Have been subscribed to Fine Homebuilding for many years and just recently found your channel. If I could do my life over again I would love to pursue a career as a fine home builder. You do amazing work Matt and I'm learning a lot. Unfortunately, I'll probably never be able to make use of it...
Looks like Corona has been helpful in us getting Matt's real house rebuild project videos.
How so Cole Spolaric
@@lenovovo travel to other places is restricted
@@ColeSpolaric Oh, ok Cole, I get you now :-) Have a great day ok :-) -Melvin
It's probably also worth mentioning the hardness of an LVL/LSL compared to sawn lumber. Sometimes requiring an investment in a high pressure compressor and nailer to drive the nail to the correct depth. Great product though and will make for a beautifully finished home!
A thought on the headers, for future projects - OVE 24" framing has a floor detail where the rim joist also serves as a header for the windows below. You could imitate that with your rafters. If you go with the rafters cut flush with the exterior sheathing, instead cut the rafters 1 1/2" back from the exterior and substitute a continuous rim joist instead of blocking between rafters. This rim joist could then also serve as header for the openings below. There are other structural advantages to this as well, especially in seismic areas.
Cut the rafter tails off? Never give up an overhang on a building. Besides there is no reason to make the entire rim a header. What if there are no openings on the wall. You have not thought this out very far. This is what Matt does not apparently understand when he makes a video like this. People who do not know better will start thinking it's a good idea just because he did it when really building the entire thing out of engineered lumber is a waste of money and material. He did not even mention higher labor cost evolved. No framer is going to agree to frame with Lvl's and charge the same as conventual framing. Also, I dare say he would do this if he was not a content creator on youtube.
What about trussed joists? I used them 20 years ago. They span 28 feet and ALL my plumbing, electrical etc are all in them with no cutouts. Floor doesn't move a fraction
Love the videos, keep up the good work. I'm sure you get plenty of nit-pickers but I thought I'd jump in. LVL studs are indeed stronger than solid sawn studs but not because the grain of the lamination is alternated. Unlike plywood, the grain of LVL is all in the same direction. What makes them stronger is the elimination of knot defects that go through the entire timber. Knots in LVL are limited in depth to the single lamination, so they are spread out. This gives us a more consistent product that doesn't need as much safety factor. It's a common misunderstanding. Plywood, on the other hand, does indeed gain strength from alternating grain orientation. This give plywood (and CLT) bidirectional spanning capability.
I was surprised that you didn't touch on VOC's and out-gassing of glues, one of the major drawbacks of using so much LVL, IMHO. Personally, I prefer using solid sawn material as much as possible and using engineered products where they really deliver a lot of value like TJI. Small section solid-sawn studs come from smaller trees than rotary peeled veneers and are considerably less processed which equals less embodied carbon as well. I'm not a LEED expert but my understanding is that it would be tough to get LEED certification with so much engineered product.
These are a must have in a kitchen where straight walls are important.
If you had the opportunity for a thicker wall, would you have entertained the idea of the t-stud framing?
How much did it cost to frame in all LVL versus traditional lumber? Is it like twice as much?
24 inch centers on floor joist? I just don't go there. Call me old school; 16" max; sometimes 12" or less when the floor surface is some type of stone; always checked for deflection ratings based on loading. Also don't care even if it is a thicker subfloor. We like over-kill on the $5 million dollar homes we build. At that level, my clients do not care about saving on lumber costs. Deflection is always L over 480 minimum. We don't go there either on 19.2" spacing; been there done that. Love engineered studs and normally use Timberstrand studs; always where cabinets or libraries go. Great video as usual.
I'm worried about the VOC levels when this is closed in. When every framing member is off gassing a little, it will add up. And it will take years, if not decades, for that to finish off gassing.
Last time I was in a house under construction was about 5 years ago. They were using studs made out of short pieces of lumber 1 to 2 feet long glued together.
Matt, I know how often you've preached advanced framing with wall studs 24" o.c.; what made you go 16" o.c. for this build?
I believe it's because code doesn't allow 24" o/c with 2x4 studs if they are supporting a second story.
@@harolddouglas4057 makes sense
@@WinstonFiore Also seems like he's just pulling it out of his ass as he goes. How am I going to build my house? Well, who wants to give me free stuff?!
@@harolddouglas4057 I was wondering the same thing. The engineer could have prescribed 24" o.c. in the design which would have superseded code. Maybe the load calcs didn't work with 16" o.c.? Seems hard to believe though.
@@theholenewworld The higher the house, the more support you need on the lower floors. 1 story houses can do 24" no problem, taller houses need more studs for support. I've seen 3-4 story houses with studs on 12" and even 8" centers since they are so top-heavy.
Pros of Engineered Lumber: High Strength (in proper orientation), straight without defect, rigidity. Cons: Cost, Weight, Drilling and nailing, like all engineered materials rots faster then standard lumber if wet cycled. Also you can't just use it like a standard lumber, it's engineered for a specific load and load path. That said, 2 x6 advanced framing LVL studs and proper dry envelope would be a stronger house then a standard 2x6 stick frame. Now that most homes are not built beyond a 100 year life cycle, probably more efficient use of materials.
very nice, straight walls. good job Matt.
You save by not spending on other things. Shimmying and shaveing walls!! Not speng time to take out bows in studs. Call backs for cracks in sheetrock and way stronger!! Great product info!!
Really like the LVL framing. I’ve never had the op to design a home using LVL studs. Super straight framed walls!
lol
House is looking great so far Matt.
Use metal studs there are straight and have prepunch holes it for electric and small plumbing pipes
Always a good show but I still think you should explain the difference between LVL's, LSL's, and PSL's
He explains the difference at 6:25 and then provides links for Boise Cascade's spec sheets
@@stevebengel1346 I watched a couple times and he never mentions PSL's which is what we use exclusively here in CA. Not saying they are better or that CA has a better engineering code, just sayin'. If you heard the explanation then I apologize but I only heard LSL and LVL's mentioned. There are differences and it's understandable that he is not familiar with PSL's cause his engineer spec's LVL's and/or LSL's. There are differences between the 3 types and I think Matt should mention that there are 3 alternatives as he is (and well he should be) presenting himself as an expert on such matters and it's the focus of the video.
Here's a link for those that are interested.
www.nishkian.com/understanding-engineered-wood-beam-options/
I'd love this, I'm still unclear on proper applications for various engineered woods.
I work at a lumber yard and we stock 2x4 and 2x6 products in 8' 9' and 10' level studs surprised you cant get them in that part of the country. I'm in New Jersey btw
Precuts* not products
LVL is almost 4 times the price of regular studs here, 5 times the price of steel studs, a non-starter as there's no way to recoup that expense. Steel is the way to go for partition.
So, LVL costs 2X , 3x more ? When you build a house and you budget X dollars, how much does the Framing cost as a percentage of the total build? When you talk about something costing twice as much, it may not be as significant if you are going from 1 percent to 2 percent. Although I get framing is probably 10-15 of the total cost. Does anyone have a total break down of the average percentage cost for each stage of construction? What is going to happen to the LVL a hundred years from now? Will the glue that holds the laminate together begin to deteroriate?
I see the advantages for a straight wall. Does North America frame with steel ever? It's like a thin gauge sheet formed into a C section.
Used as a alternative to timber in Australia.
Very few houses are framed in structural steel here. Its mostly used in commercial buildings and apts however. Some houses may use the thin gauge steel for partition walls, but not load-bearing. Its similar enough to wood framing but lots of contractors and crew dont want to learn it. Wood framing is simple and they're used to it.
Omg!! I thumbs upped just for the rattle comment. My grandma has a curio cabinet next to a wall. Everytime I walk through the living room I'm like "gah come on"!!!!
If lvl lumber is left in weather prior to being put together and covered, will it swell and deform like osb?
I liked the tyvek commercial blasting the zip system prior to this video.
That crap failed in 2012 on Christmas when a home built with that crap was hit by the Christmas day tornado in Mobile Alabama...the home next to it in a similar style built-in the 1950s had superficial damage. The homeowner went old school rebuilding his house and went with traditional construction and also didn't allow any nail guns. That house upon completion was super solid.
Hi Matt great video, very informative! I’m a firefighter and can you explain what happens if one component fails, can the other members hold or does it collapse because it can’t take the excessive weights of the failed member? Also what happens when heat is applied like in a fire situation, does the glue melt and the wood delaminates and fail? I’ve seen regular 2x4’s take a good amount to fire and still hold a wall up. Thanks Mike
Laughed when you mentioned the rattling glass cabinet. I restored a '70 Chevelle. It too rattles and squeaks, even at stop lights.
Wish I could make it stop. 😀
Lvl frame will fix that issue!
Wow that's a cool area above the stairs
At first thought I would think cost is the only con. Excited to learn if there is more cons
@6:45 If a LVL stud is 2 - 2.5 X stronger than a standard 2x4, how do stainless steel studs compare?
Are they stronger than a standard 2 x 4 stud ?
If LVL 2x4 studs are as strong as standard 2x6, why not framing the house 24in on centre instead of 16in?
Question for you.
I’d like to hear your thoughts on combining a house with LVL’ for the exterior framing then move to traditional lumber for the rest of the house. Worth it?
Pros: High strength, trueness, rigidity.
Cons: Difficult to drill for electrical & plumbing penetrations, heavier than solid counterparts & the biggest con for mere mortals $$$$$$$$.
That’s what I was wondering as well. Would it degrade quicker with moisture?
@@jonahstoyroom7516 I would think it would be less susceptible since it's laminated with adhesive that would be stable with moisture.
These tend to be more resistant to water intrusion vs a standard SPF stud or OSB. The heavy use of glue and the compression of the plies during forming tends to cause the fibers to soak up a lot of the binder.
As a fire sprinkler fitter, I hate seeing LVL in the roofing as I have a pain in the ass of a time installing my pipe for code and fitting into the wood.
look back on his videos when he proclaims that 24 on center filled with insulation is not only efficient but proficient in solidity. Literally will sell anything to anyone just because it seems to be a good idea.
Matt, I watch you frequently and I have a couple questions on the life of this product. I have a home built in the 1930s, mainly rough cut lumber but in 90 years the lumber is harder and stronger than it ever was. 90 years from now, is the glue going to break down and send me into a nightmare of issues? I have a floor support that is a 12x12, it has seen moisture over the 90 years and has some checking but its amazingly strong. How is this type of product going to react to moisture over many years? During remodeling I have been looking for materials to ensure the house has a another 90 years and no stability issues. I know this is a lot of questions but any feed back is welcomed.
Let's be honest, this house will be torn down in 30 years just like the first one.
i wish i had the cash to do the house we just bought that way. i will be using it for a lot of stuff like the headers and support beams but i just won't have that much money to redo it all in LVL. absolutely beautiful home though. I am starting somewhere and ill be at your level really soon. Have a wonderful year since i know you posted this over a year ago.
Another awesome video. A couple questions that weren’t covered. 1) since they are stronger why not do 24 on center framing? 2) am I remembering correctly from another video you did that they don’t do as well with moisture?
gsneff he did the 16” framing because he didn’t want to change the foundation he talked about it in an earlier video
Daniel Jensen he did the 4 inch depth because of the foundation. The 16 versus 24 doesn’t make a difference
@@gsneff Did Matt reused the anchor points?
@@gsneff Footers are usually 10-12" thick, a thicker stud and plate wont hurt anything.
I think he just didnt want to lose interior room. Since he's using exterior insulation, more in-wall insulation isnt as necessary.
@@afobear I kind of doubt it, I'm sure more than a few were rusted to hell. A good hammer drill makes quick work of drilling concrete and epoxying in new anchor bolts.
Wish I could work and learn from you !! Building my own home would be a dream of mine to do but to do it right with the right materials like you build!!!
Thanks Matt very good info, I was kind of shocked at the extra cost of the LVL's, great content my friend. Can't wait for the exterior insulation details. I really want to know more about that.
Ask any fireman what they think of that material. All of the glue in that material acts as an accelerant in the event of a fire. Let’s hope you never have any water leakage or moisture. Anything made of particle board, stud and glue is typically more vulnerable to deforming or losing strength due to water. In a perfect world the stuff should be great.
for a lumber that's 2x-3x the cost, and that's at least 2x stronger, wouldn't you space out the studs farther? fewer thermal bridges, better sound/vibration deadening, lower cost, less hassle for the framers
Hi Matt, Have a couple questions. Q1? For vertical loading (stud), I see you using BCI but can any LVL be used like Microllam® LVL for the same purpose (ie: Is buying LVL for stud applications brand specific BCI vs Weyerhaeuser)? Q2? Also I see in the video you have bound several of the LVL into a post configuration with threaded rod, washer and bolt. Is this new LVL post better then say using a PSL post? Much appreached! Great work!
Thoughts on LSL vs LVL? We use LSL precuts on kitchen walls.
Just curious why you opted to go with I-joists and not open joists for your house? After reading (and seeing a video or two from you) about them I would have thought they'd be the go-to choice since you can easily send mechanicals through them.
Curious if there’s strength tests of LVL wall studs vs std studs in them bowing or bending under heavy loads which would obviously affect overall wall strength.
You did a video on T studs last year, was there a reason you decided against it on your home? Some follow-up videos on some of the "old" new tech that you have featured would be cool.
It’s so nice to have attic access not blocked by cross framing ruining the space.
How do these studs hold fasteners, specifically dry wall screws? Do the drywall hangers have troubles with screw heads breaking off?
I was wondering that myself?
Good question. I'm guessing they have to switch to fine-thread, or use the self-tapping drywall screws to bore in a little first.
Really like those windows you got in your stairway. Looks sharp.
Love all your videos and have been watching for a long time now.
Question, If the 2x4 LVL is as strong or stronger than traditional 2x6 than why not go 24” o.c.?
Same question!
Especially for all of the raving he's done about advanced framing in prior videos...
Because 'stronger' is a vague term that can mean 105% or it can mean 200%.
I actually use this idea in my violins. It's s a great strengthening process...👍
Hahahahahahahaha
hello matt, we have a homebuilder in our neighborhood who is building houses with no structural sheathing. he has a single 1x4 board "let in" at each corner of the exterior framing running diagonally. that is the sum total of his structural integrity. he puts one layer of tyvek vapor barrier over the exterior studs then he is nailing hardy planks (not the 4x8 sheets} attaching them to the studs. can you comment on this method?
Its piss-poor construction. You must not have much for permitting or inspections out there. Stuff like that was ok 60+ years ok but hasnt met newer codes for decades now. Dont let friends buy those houses, the energy costs will be killer since so much air can escape.
@@bigpjohnson this is out in a rural area. no permit and no code. I am telling his prospective buyers when I see them and he is threatening me for doing that.
My dad and i always call light going across a wall giving it the 'sun test', be it brick work or stud. Looking forward to using these in the uk. Rather than having to sight every timber we're using. Both c16 and c24 aren't great. Dry grading often means sizes vary considerably a pain in the butt.
Hey Matt, you can please some of the people some of the time, and all of the people some of the time, but not all of the people all of the time. :-) I always enjoy watching you and your videos, you are the new Norm Abram. :-) And speaking of Norm Abram, I really miss that dude on " This Old House"
Matt great job with the videos keep them coming. I was wondering why you did not use the T STUD framing system for your house.
Carefully selected 2" × 6" wall studs will stay very straight over time and they are incredibly strong. They are much cheaper and provide plenty of insulation space.
I don't see the upside for 2" x 4" LVLs in comparison.
FL FL True. Could you help me get enough of them? I’m interested to see if he saves on labor when the drywall goes up.
@@nunyabidness3075 You should be able to go to a Home Depot and get as many as you need. If not, Google lumber suppliers in your city.
FL FL, My local box stores sell bent and twisted crud. I do a lot of DIY stuff where I want decent wood for basic shelves and benches. If I go to buy a half dozen boards it takes ten to fifteen minutes to get them from the best quality they sell. My time is not worthless. Carefully selected is expensive even if they let you do it.
@@nunyabidness3075 That's always a problem no matter who supplies your wood. I would suggest going to Home Depot and sorting out your own lumber and culling it. You can return unused lumber to Home Depot for a full refund. Typically Home Depot has a good supply of straight studs if you take the time to sort through them.
This may be a stupid question, but does LVL's produce any off gassing/VOC from the all the glues and adhesives used in the material???
T-Studs vs LVL? Im guessing you prefer LVL, but leaving the cost factor aside is there a situation where you’d prefer T-Studs?
Excxellent! -- QUESTION -- Matt, @10:34 the large LVL beam that you are measuring, appears to have a vertical cut line just to the left of your tape measure. In fact, I can see a couple of these "cuts" in that beam. What is going on there? Almost looks like someone patched this beam together from smaller beams, (but I suspect that no one would do that on such an important engineered piece) - what happened there?
Longevity? Does region matter for the LVL?
Imma guess you did the zip and exterior insulation to keep any moisture away from the studs.
Not correct Matt. Laminated Veneer Lumber(LVL) does not have the plys orientated in opposite directions like plywood. The grain in LVL runs lengthwise on all plys to achieve maximum strength.
Why not use 9 or 10' sheathing and ommit the blocking. Considering the cost of LVLs the cost of 9' sheets in minimal and the money spent on OSB is saved in not having to block?
If you use it for the top plate area, do you still have to have double top plates since they are stronger than conventional lumber?
Hi Matt, thanks for all these videos.. so helpful. Can you send a link to what specific LVLs you're using for the stair stringers? Are they just a Boise Cascade that you site-cut to make the stringers?
I like the new lumber but lets be realistic regular Standard stud homes are not falling down. One good thing about the new lumber we have found a place to recycle saw dust I hope the glue does not fail!!
OSB makes a good fire, that's it. I like the studs your using however
I have rotten floor joists under the kitchen & den because nearly one half the area gets to about one foot above the ground. I will be having contractor put down 12 mil plastic on the ground. What two choices of joist material would you possibly use? I have prostate cancer and will be on a tight budget.
Enjoy your channel.
Thanks, Elvin Parker, NC
Pretty rough on saw blades I bet, but super straight. Do you still have a double jack on 60+" openings? Should I would think.
LVLs murder saw blades, I find it cuts the life in half to a quarter of what it is on SPF.
@@aaronpower998 I think that's mostly because of the glue.
Gobuilditbetter
Use cermet or diamond coated saw blades. Makes the blade lifespan more comparable to using a regular carbide saw blade.
Wow that's nice framing 👍✌️
How would span 32 ft with no center support? Just 8x8 for end support for deck 32" x 10'?
I think people are more worried about moisture than cost. Sounds like a good idea in super dry Texas, but for the tropics and subtropics that sounds awful.
If you're only adding 2inches of polyiso to the exterior why didn't you use zip-R?
This building is nice but when it comes to internet and your tv you better run some cat 6 and rg 6 or else you will have a installer like me wrapping your house on the outside with coax! Especially with your house being on a slab haha
If your wood costs 3x, how does that hold up when you are trying to sell and you have comps of conventional construction? I presume that the LVL won't be the only premium items you choose to finish off the home.,
Just woundering why you haven't taken advantage of the LVLs extra load ability to span out your studds ?
Possible plasterboard spans may limit longer spacing ?
Are they more prone to rot under damp conditions than solid lumber? Less fire resistant?
Do the beams have any fire retardant in them, using rock wool for insulation to help the fires being reduced?
But what happens if the studs or headers or beams get wet? Does the glue loosen? Do they delaminate?
Engineered lumber takes longer to absorb water, so a one-off or intermittent wetting events are no problem. The problem is when there's repeated-wetting/standing water - takes much longer to dry and tends to disintegrate. Laminated veneer lumber (LVL) is much better than laminated strand lumber (LSL) wrt wetting/disintegration since it's essentially a plywood rather than OSB. Anyone who has a budget for LVLs is highly likely to be using a rainscreen and good flashing details, so wetting issues are very low probability. Average Hack Builder/Homeowner would be better off using standard dimensional lumber.
My neighbor built a 3500 square-foot house with them and he was pretty much by himself so it sat out for two to 3 months getting wet all the time and not one issue at all because they use exterior glue.
@@augustreil framing no matter the type sitting open is not a problem if it gets wet it can dry out. The problem rises when it gets wet after it closed up, because it stays wet and rots. ( One of Matt's famous sayings is if it can't breathe it going to die) wet traditional lumber is much better and will survive this alot better than any engineered lumber
@@hotrodpaully1, hard to argue with that! Good points.
Excellent stuff
Thank you Matt for your video. The lves are good products but outside of using them for headers the are not available in some areas.
Pros: everything
Cons: cost
With the wood I joist watch out for floor buckling and sag they tend to not fair well with settling.
Awesome video brother.