We show you some tips 'n' tricks that I've figured out in using the press regularly. This is Part 2 of a series. It is also available at www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com.
Yes, that would work quite well. I've tried it before, and it's a good replacement for the chain. Someone pointed out to me before that Richard Lee may have used the chain to prevent inadvertent double-charges (easier to do on a progressive press), but as long as we as reloaders watch what we're doing, we should be A-OK w/ the spring for the Classic Turret Press. A small bungee cord would also work well.
Yep, I sure have. Usually they get tipped sideways. When I start getting primer misfeeds, that's when I give the press a cleaning. There are two procedures to do this--the full one and the "quick maintenance" one, and there's a video series for each type.
@hissingfetus I don't recommend trying .308 with the Pro 1000, due to the height of the case. It's really meant for handgun rounds or .223-length cases. If you want to do .308, I'd recommend the Classic Turret Press, which will handle all the way up to .416 Rigby length.
hey this is Frenchy from Rugerforum, awesome vids, keep up the great work. I'v watched almost all, just bought a Lee hand press to get started but next press will be this one. Nice work, keep em coming.
That's true, and the cotter pin trick is one that I've seen on another person's video some years back. That, too, is a very good way to do it. The new 2023 primer system is even better. I've got the Pro 6000 that has it, and the new 2023 Pro 1000's also have it. Looking forward to trying the new Pro 1000's version, also.
I just rec'd confirmation from Peter Customer Serv - Lee Precision. Yes you can use the spring return on the Pro 1000. "The chain return is actually used as a safety measure to prevent double charging a case during the loading process. With the chain return the ram must be lowered completely for the disk to move back under the hopper to pick up the next charge .... so it is impossible to double charge it." Thanks, Peter"
Wow...cool to have folks asking for more stuff! :-) The only reason I haven't is that time got a bit more scarce. I do plan to do some more vids in the future, though, and hopefully that'll be pretty soon.
A small mirror, like a dentist's mirror, positioned at the right spot and angle would also help with this. When I get some time--I keep saying that!--this is one of the things down the road I'd like to try out. Fortunately, the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure is a remarkably reliable little beastie.
GREAT VIDS..Can you show how to set up the the powder measure in detail.From putting it on the press to the finish. Including it in process of loading rounds.
Thanks bud. I will certainly check that out and follow the advice. Say, I was thinking- ever use Remington dri-lube? Dries super slick. Thinking in the primer chute. Watcha think?
Hope your having a good Day Cowboy! Thanks for the tip on the chain. I've been reloading for over 35 years, but have always used a RCBS rock chucker press. I just bought a used pro1000 for reloading 9MM and the chain adjustment was my only hold up. I myself am a token Conservative from Texas but we do share a command interest, so I don't hold your liberalism against you. LOL Thanks Pal and have a great day
Can you do some videos on various recipes and determining a proper load for a round? Combining of different powder types, bullet grains, primers and so on.
Never tried it, but actually, if you have nothing in the chute at all, things work out well. If you want, maybe a little very fine graphite would be helpful, but just a little.
No, I'm afraid the Factory Crimp Die is a separate purchase. However, I've found it to be unnecessary in actual practice. Just ensure your bullets are properly sized, and you're good to go.
That's true about the pin on the primer trough. I think I mention it in the cleaning/reassembly procedure, but it'd be a good "tip 'n' trick" as well. Good call. BTW...shoot me a PM.
I look into every case I load to do a visual powder level check. Also, I weigh the powder from any load that doesn't quite make it, just to make sure it's throwing powder OK. A Pro 1000 tip I haven't seen: The pin on your primer trough should touch the right rear post, so that the grooves make it shake. BTW, I shoot at the NRA range, second Saturday of the month, and I look for you, so I can buy you lunch. No luck yet. I'll keep trying.
:-D I've found that *true* Liberals and *true* Conservatives are remarkably alike. Naturally, the politicians, who wish to keep us divided and conquered, don't want Us, The People, to think about that. Rockchuckers are great. There's not much that's stronger than one of those. Pro 1000's are also excellent complements to single-stage presses; fortunately, we can use both types depending on what the needs at hand are. The experienced guys like you, BTW, are who got me started.
Cowboy T rather than mess with the lamp chain for a return mechanism can you just use the return spring setup that comes with the prodisk measure for the Classic Turret press? This return mechanism has the spring mounted to the body of the powdermeasure (no chain req'd). The Lee precision site they refer to this as the "SPRING LEVER FOR NON-PROGRESSIVE PRESSES". It seems that this would work. Am I missing something? Thanks Bob
I just set up my Lee Pro 1000 but the pin that seats the new primer doesn't drop all the way automatically allowing the new primer to drop into place so I'm having to manually actuate it each time...help!
I use a dry silicone spray lube in the primer chute, but that's not the real cure. The big deals are, trim the casting flash inside the chute, so there's nothing for the primers to trip on, and then KEEP THE CHUTE FULL!. The primer chute cross pin should touch the right rear post, so that the grooves make it shake every time, but you should eyeball it to see that nothing hangs up, too.
He SFLiberal, it has been such a long time that you have made new videos. How come? I would like to encourage you to produce more of your very educative and interesting films and upload them here. I know that almost all has been covered, not only in your videos but also in those of others, but then I really would like to have everything covered by you. An interesting topic would be alternative lubing, rather than lubing with liquid alox. Please give us more vids...
And now everyone knows the *real* reason I wear those latex gloves. :-D Seriously, though, your point is sound and not at all improper. On a four-stage press, I would probably install a powder cop die or maybe a flexible LED. Fortunately, the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure has shown itself to be *so* reliable that I've learned over the years to trust it. Not saying you're wrong; quite the opposite, actually.
Buzzard: Perhaps you should learn how to spell a simple three letter word such as "too" before you go around calling other people idiots. Nice video Cowboy. I don't have this press. I have a Dillon 550 but I just like reloading in general so I watch videos on all sorts of stuff. I'm gonna start doing some reloading videos for my channel as well. Keep up the good work.....and beware of trolls. ;)
Fair question. It's because of the powder that I happen to be using here, which is Alliant 2400. Turns out that Alliant 2400 does not require magnum primers to ignite well, and my loads with this combination are very consistent. I have successfully used standard SPP's from CCI, Federal, Remington, Winchester, Fiocchi, and Murom ("Wolf" or "Tulammo"), all with excellent results. However, were I to use H110 or W296, I most definitely would use only magnum primers. Same goes with the new variant of H110/W296, called Accurate 11FS (for "Flash Suppressant"). Note that you can also use magnum primers with Alliant 2400 with no problems whatsoever. Lyman's Reloading Manual lists their 2400 loads with magnum primers, specifically CCI 550's.
It wouldn't've been so bad if I knew where the first powderless round was (or began) Somehow I NEVER saw the empty powder hopper during all this - so prolly the next day, when I finally realized it, I had to disassemble back to 5 bags of rounds to see if there were any without powder...fortunately there were less than one hundred... you certainly do not do it again. That case feeder and auto indexer are worse than sex, drugs and/or potato chips...combined!!!
LOL! I know, better watch out...we Libs are infiltrating the God-Fearing 'Murrican Society! LOOK OUT! NOOOOOO!!11!!!!!11! :-) Do go slowly with the Pro 1000 at first. Learn its quirks, 'cause it definitely has a few. Once you get it dialed in, though, you'll be spitting out great ammo for not a lot of money. Also, I recommend the "Quicker Cleaning Procedure" before you begin with it, just to get any manufacturing oils out of the priming system. Congrats, and go gettum!
Yes, that would work quite well. I've tried it before, and it's a good replacement for the chain. Someone pointed out to me before that Richard Lee may have used the chain to prevent inadvertent double-charges (easier to do on a progressive press), but as long as we as reloaders watch what we're doing, we should be A-OK w/ the spring for the Classic Turret Press. A small bungee cord would also work well.
I hope you're doing well. I wish you'd come back to youtube. You've been a wealth of knowledge.
Yep, I sure have. Usually they get tipped sideways. When I start getting primer misfeeds, that's when I give the press a cleaning. There are two procedures to do this--the full one and the "quick maintenance" one, and there's a video series for each type.
@hissingfetus I don't recommend trying .308 with the Pro 1000, due to the height of the case. It's really meant for handgun rounds or .223-length cases. If you want to do .308, I'd recommend the Classic Turret Press, which will handle all the way up to .416 Rigby length.
Another suggestion someone came up with is to use a 5" to 6" spring as as replacement for the chain. I'm going to try that out.
hey this is Frenchy from Rugerforum, awesome vids, keep up the great work. I'v watched almost all, just bought a Lee hand press to get started but next press will be this one. Nice work, keep em coming.
Brilliant! Drilling a small hole in the chute for a Cotter Pin is another way to contain the otherwise loose primers...
That's true, and the cotter pin trick is one that I've seen on another person's video some years back. That, too, is a very good way to do it.
The new 2023 primer system is even better. I've got the Pro 6000 that has it, and the new 2023 Pro 1000's also have it. Looking forward to trying the new Pro 1000's version, also.
Your videos are informative and well done. Would love to see gun videos, cleaning maintance or reviews. Thanks for the info!
I just rec'd confirmation from Peter Customer Serv - Lee Precision.
Yes you can use the spring return on the Pro 1000.
"The chain return is actually used as a safety measure to
prevent double charging a case during the loading process. With the
chain return the ram must be lowered completely for the disk to move
back under the hopper to pick up the next charge .... so it is
impossible to double charge it."
Thanks,
Peter"
cowboyt...where are you. I personally miss your videos.
Hope all goes fine down there :)
Wow...cool to have folks asking for more stuff! :-) The only reason I haven't is that time got a bit more scarce. I do plan to do some more vids in the future, though, and hopefully that'll be pretty soon.
A small mirror, like a dentist's mirror, positioned at the right spot and angle would also help with this. When I get some time--I keep saying that!--this is one of the things down the road I'd like to try out. Fortunately, the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure is a remarkably reliable little beastie.
GREAT VIDS..Can you show how to set up the the powder measure in detail.From putting it on the press to the finish. Including it in process of loading rounds.
Agreed, and wow...500, eh? That kinetic bullet puller definitely put in some overtime. Lesson learned, for both of us!
Check out the "quicker cleaning procedure" for dealing with this issue on Pro 1000's. Might help your situation.
Thanks bud. I will certainly check that out and follow the advice. Say, I was thinking- ever use Remington dri-lube? Dries super slick. Thinking in the primer chute. Watcha think?
Hope your having a good Day Cowboy! Thanks for the tip on the chain. I've been reloading for over 35 years, but have always used a RCBS rock chucker press. I just bought a used pro1000 for reloading 9MM and the chain adjustment was my only hold up. I myself am a token Conservative from Texas but we do share a command interest, so I don't hold your liberalism against you. LOL Thanks Pal and have a great day
Can you do some videos on various recipes and determining a proper load for a round? Combining of different powder types, bullet grains, primers and so on.
You know, I really should, huh? That's a very good idea, especially with the ammunition shortage...and thanks for the suggestion!
Never tried it, but actually, if you have nothing in the chute at all, things work out well. If you want, maybe a little very fine graphite would be helpful, but just a little.
No, I'm afraid the Factory Crimp Die is a separate purchase. However, I've found it to be unnecessary in actual practice. Just ensure your bullets are properly sized, and you're good to go.
That's true about the pin on the primer trough. I think I mention it in the cleaning/reassembly procedure, but it'd be a good "tip 'n' trick" as well. Good call.
BTW...shoot me a PM.
I look into every case I load to do a visual powder level check. Also, I weigh the powder from any load that doesn't quite make it, just to make sure it's throwing powder OK.
A Pro 1000 tip I haven't seen: The pin on your primer trough should touch the right rear post, so that the grooves make it shake. BTW, I shoot at the NRA range, second Saturday of the month, and I look for you, so I can buy you lunch. No luck yet. I'll keep trying.
:-D
I've found that *true* Liberals and *true* Conservatives are remarkably alike. Naturally, the politicians, who wish to keep us divided and conquered, don't want Us, The People, to think about that.
Rockchuckers are great. There's not much that's stronger than one of those. Pro 1000's are also excellent complements to single-stage presses; fortunately, we can use both types depending on what the needs at hand are. The experienced guys like you, BTW, are who got me started.
Agreed, and wow...500, eh? That kinetic bullet puller definitely put in some overtime. Lesson learned, for both of us! :-)
Thanks for the tips. First thing I did when I picked up a used pro 1000 was break the chain. Is there a waiting period for dry wall in California?
the lee is working fine now, thanks for tips, great vids.
Is there a continuation of this video? it seems to cut out right as your dealing with the primers.. pushing them back up into the hopper.
Cowboy T rather than mess with the lamp chain for a return mechanism can you just use the return spring setup that comes with the prodisk measure for the Classic Turret press? This return mechanism has the spring mounted to the body of the powdermeasure (no chain req'd). The Lee precision site they refer to this as the "SPRING LEVER FOR NON-PROGRESSIVE PRESSES". It seems that this would work. Am I missing something? Thanks Bob
Actually, it turns out we have such a video series! It's at my personal Web site, over in the Pro 1000 section.
I just set up my Lee Pro 1000 but the pin that seats the new primer doesn't drop all the way automatically allowing the new primer to drop into place so I'm having to manually actuate it each time...help!
I have a question about this press before I buy one.. What will I need to change calibers, like from 9mm to .308?
I use a dry silicone spray lube in the primer chute, but that's not the real cure. The big deals are, trim the casting flash inside the chute, so there's nothing for the primers to trip on, and then KEEP THE CHUTE FULL!. The primer chute cross pin should touch the right rear post, so that the grooves make it shake every time, but you should eyeball it to see that nothing hangs up, too.
He SFLiberal, it has been such a long time that you have made new videos. How come? I would like to encourage you to produce more of your very educative and interesting films and upload them here. I know that almost all has been covered, not only in your videos but also in those of others, but then I really would like to have everything covered by you. An interesting topic would be alternative lubing, rather than lubing with liquid alox. Please give us more vids...
have you ever had primers not feeding right into case, its happens sometimes on my lee ,the chain from my bath plug is now on my lee.
@Robert Cook- yah, did that. Shame that I have to, though, considering the assertions Lee makes about the revolutionary system he invented...
And now everyone knows the *real* reason I wear those latex gloves. :-D
Seriously, though, your point is sound and not at all improper. On a four-stage press, I would probably install a powder cop die or maybe a flexible LED. Fortunately, the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure has shown itself to be *so* reliable that I've learned over the years to trust it. Not saying you're wrong; quite the opposite, actually.
Buzzard: Perhaps you should learn how to spell a simple three letter word such as "too" before you go around calling other people idiots. Nice video Cowboy. I don't have this press. I have a Dillon 550 but I just like reloading in general so I watch videos on all sorts of stuff. I'm gonna start doing some reloading videos for my channel as well. Keep up the good work.....and beware of trolls. ;)
does this come with the factory crimp?
another tip get rid of the chain return and go to a sping return powder base
Thanks!
Now I know to get about 10' of chain when I buy my press! Good thing Ace is only a mile away, lol.
If you do 357 why don’t you use small pistols magnum primers
Fair question. It's because of the powder that I happen to be using here, which is Alliant 2400. Turns out that Alliant 2400 does not require magnum primers to ignite well, and my loads with this combination are very consistent. I have successfully used standard SPP's from CCI, Federal, Remington, Winchester, Fiocchi, and Murom ("Wolf" or "Tulammo"), all with excellent results.
However, were I to use H110 or W296, I most definitely would use only magnum primers. Same goes with the new variant of H110/W296, called Accurate 11FS (for "Flash Suppressant").
Note that you can also use magnum primers with Alliant 2400 with no problems whatsoever. Lyman's Reloading Manual lists their 2400 loads with magnum primers, specifically CCI 550's.
Surprised me, too, believe me, but sometimes you do get lucky. I certainly did.
first thing i do is get rid the chain return, it is a POS and a bad design.....
What I want to know is ; where the hell did you find a woman interested in all of this? lol Nice tips, thanks.
It wouldn't've been so bad if I knew where the first powderless round was (or began) Somehow I NEVER saw the empty powder hopper during all this - so prolly the next day, when I finally realized it, I had to disassemble back to 5 bags of rounds to see if there were any without powder...fortunately there were less than one hundred... you certainly do not do it again. That case feeder and auto indexer are worse than sex, drugs and/or potato chips...combined!!!
My calguns impression of you was so off...
Yep, you're right on both counts, Buzzard. Just the Liberal in me, I guess. :-D
I did the SAME THING - after you disassemble 500 rounds you NEVER do it again!!!
LOL! I know, better watch out...we Libs are infiltrating the God-Fearing 'Murrican Society! LOOK OUT! NOOOOOO!!11!!!!!11!
:-)
Do go slowly with the Pro 1000 at first. Learn its quirks, 'cause it definitely has a few. Once you get it dialed in, though, you'll be spitting out great ammo for not a lot of money. Also, I recommend the "Quicker Cleaning Procedure" before you begin with it, just to get any manufacturing oils out of the priming system.
Congrats, and go gettum!