As building a VF1 xk myself, I got caught by thinking "What a badass ... VF2, is it?" (the 2 seater vers) and no. No, this is a completely rewritten Audi RS, it looks brutal and it sounds ominous. Dude, the hell of a vehicle you've placed down! Wow. Amazing job. Front and rear Audi multilink completely revisited, those over-tire spindles seem just born for this. I'm constantly watching updates on 4-rotors Mazda, K24 swapped Ferrari and so, and this thing is another one of its own! (Yes I subbed ofc :)
Those frame rails concern me. Welding so many pieces together like that without a sleeve has the potential for a massive problem. I also don't understand what the point in starting with a full car was since the only things left were the supframes and the engine.
Why is it a waste of time? It looks like a pretty competent build, and once youre at speed, it hardly matters how well you can launch, especially if its not a competition car. FWD has been used in rally quite a bit, and actual drivers typically put it on similar footing to RWD. They just have their pros and cons, launch being one for FWD. Neither compare to AWD but it is way easier to not only build around, but theres less fabrication on an already super intensive project. Plus, its cheaper so...
@Gloomendoom i believe he said he has a haldex system which primarily operates in FWD and then sends power to the rear when theres no traction. Simply put, its not full time AWD
It is AWD. Its a quattro, there is a diff and drive shafts at the back subframe. He likely only needs to disconnect yaw sensors or ABS and get something like a haldex controller to make it full 4WD. Good work man! The only advice I have is, when you weld the roll cage, don't do stop-start welding. That is you safety device and your life depends on that, better to have solid welds there. Less likely to get fatigue cracking then. Nonetheless, impressive build.
Hi :) asking for my own chassis: You mean by no stop-start, to possibly weld all the joint in one single continuous pass keeping an eye to the heat affected area to be constant, and in case of interruption leave the joint to cool down before restarting? What can you advice me to MIG weld a thing like this but yeah, smaller ofc? ...Can I use animated wire on 1" 1/2 x .12 DOM or ...is it too thin like i hear saying, so better use gas? ...Is there a specific filler material you suggest me for this, other than the usual mild steel wire? Thank you vm!
@bonovoxel7527 @bonovoxel7527 Yeah, I mean it will nearly be impossible to not have a stop in the weld, but the less stops the better right. I have seen welding like that on roll cages before, but what likely happens is, you get 'fisheyes' in the weld pool. This happens when you stop start like that. This can lead to early fatigue cracking. So I get that heat control is important to minimise "pulling effect" but it would be better to have a weld strategy, so you weld half the joint, then move to an opposite joint and come back to that one but take time to feather in you stop starts, i.e., grind the stop away so you can have penetration when your weld pool melts into the stop. As for weld process a good filler to use is ER70S6, this is slightly higher quality mild steel filler. Also ok for the likes of chrome-moly tubing, but chrome-moly might need heat treatment afterwards. A normal argon CO2 mix should be fine. Here we get them for different types of welding, but a standard mix should be good. When I have to make structural components, I like to tig weld it, just because I personally feel I can control my HAZ better, also I know when I have penetration compared to mig. MIG is a really fast process for small welds though.
@@JanoLeRoux ❤️ I have the TIG and argon, wondering if I can save some bucks just buying the CO2 and a mixer of sort, for the MIG. You're excluding I could use animated wire I read. I have the TIG but it's tough. My idea, and here again asking your advice, is that despite a less accurate process overall, I could get more constant result with MIG. (which I'll have to learn from the ground or close) Not to mention my father pressing me to have back his car's place 😅
@@JanoLeRoux ah, ofc I read all the advice and at least, Tig or not I thought by myself of a welding plan. As a noob I'm horrified how much steel retracts and shrinks and that procedure you described it's now confirmed as my go-to plan for equalizing shrinkage. ;) thx again!
No, it isn't. If he wanted a damn buggy, he should have just build a damn buggy and got an engine, tranny, drivetraine combo that had some real balls. Instead he hacked up a good car to make an anemic embarrassment. This is beyond stupid.
I would have captured the location of the suspension geometry and drive line placement with a jig. Once that was made, I could pull it off start building a new chassis around the jig and not worry where my engine, transmission, AWD and suspension will fit because I captured all that geometry already... Funny enough, I think they had to do that too for there suspension since each time they cut off a section, there had to be a way to locate the mounting points the new chassis. The biggest benefit to building a jig that can come off the old chassis and then be put onto the new chassis to check the location of things you put in while you build. Or later on if you have an accident and want to a way to bend it back to shape. Just pull out your old jig and try to put it into place to find what is broken. Also, I just did not like where they mounted the intercooler... Having the hot hair go into the cabin from the intercooler does not seem pleasant to me.
Why did you cut away the AUDIO piece by piece until nothing of it is left? You cold have build that welded tube car already from scratch without trying to build it in that cut away AUDI
I agree, but ultimately the cost of the retained drive train components minus the working car on top of it probably was a negligible difference in cost. And the added benefit of working off the existing geometry I’m sure was huge too.
Amazing build. I suppose my only question would be, why go through all the trouble of removing the car bit by bit just to end up with a completely custom shell, when you could have just made the shell from scratch and saved a month or 2 and a fair bit of money on supplies.
Man, pretty cool shop, dyno, 1st time here to this page. Someone connected, meaning. Like, cool. Was that the gearing or rpm, seemed to max out easy ? I think id want a windshield and side opening coverage. Eating some dust. But definitely cool.
No, it isn't. If he wanted a damn buggy, he should have just build a damn buggy and got an engine, tranny, drivetraine combo that had some real balls. Instead he hacked up a good car to make an anemic embarrassment. This is beyond stupid.
It's awd, and he can buy a nut for the haldex in the rear that blocks an oil channel to get 50/50 ratio in low speeds for 32$ from bar-tek. Fun small budget build👍
TT RS. Oh so it is it. I was tricked, thought of a RS3 or 4, it's a TT. Thanks! He did the right thing btw, even as a RS equipped I hear saying not too well about the TT as a model and the prices went down quickly for used ones. Like there was many ppl buying it but didnt become their fav car. But it's only what I heard saying, i never had the occasion to drive a TT.
@@neonnerd1364 you're both wrong (I was tricked too bc on the final video the front tires slip first but then he does donuts and you can see there no way a FWD would behave like that, often they don't donut at all.
Only loocking at the angles of that transmission you can see problems. That welding with lot of tensinos are future problems. Obvious that´s an incredibly work, and don´t think bad about me. I like the efford of the project, but poor guy the future buyer of that FWD shit.
Looks cool but front wheel drive for off road is daft, it sounds awful and it seems very slow. Skilled work but seen much faster and better handling cross karts.
You ruined a great car to make a go cart. If you wanted a buggy, build a damn buggy. Tube frame the whole way and get an actual 4wd setup with an engine that some balls. You have all the shit to male a real buggy, this makes sno sense. There really needs to be someone who stops stupid projects like this before they happen.
I commend your work, but I don't see the point in a fwd offroad rig. I can only assume that the point in starting with a complete vehicle is because you needed a vin.
As building a VF1 xk myself, I got caught by thinking "What a badass ... VF2, is it?" (the 2 seater vers) and no. No, this is a completely rewritten Audi RS, it looks brutal and it sounds ominous. Dude, the hell of a vehicle you've placed down! Wow. Amazing job. Front and rear Audi multilink completely revisited, those over-tire spindles seem just born for this.
I'm constantly watching updates on 4-rotors Mazda, K24 swapped Ferrari and so, and this thing is another one of its own! (Yes I subbed ofc :)
Those frame rails concern me. Welding so many pieces together like that without a sleeve has the potential for a massive problem. I also don't understand what the point in starting with a full car was since the only things left were the supframes and the engine.
Was thinking the same thing.
You could always do your own and make a video and upload it for us all to watch how you would do it .....
probably because it's an easy way to build without a chassis table and a lot of measuring
@lillaprofessorn I mean a lot of people make it work without no issue.
@@neonnerd1364 so did he😂
FWD... What a waste of time... I mean, looks great but in 14:05 you got the answer...
Why is it a waste of time? It looks like a pretty competent build, and once youre at speed, it hardly matters how well you can launch, especially if its not a competition car. FWD has been used in rally quite a bit, and actual drivers typically put it on similar footing to RWD. They just have their pros and cons, launch being one for FWD. Neither compare to AWD but it is way easier to not only build around, but theres less fabrication on an already super intensive project. Plus, its cheaper so...
Have I missed something? The car he started with was an Audi Coupe Quattro, so AWD.
You can see the diff and driveshafts at the back.
@@Gloomendoom Please go to 14:04 and then tell me
@Gloomendoom i believe he said he has a haldex system which primarily operates in FWD and then sends power to the rear when theres no traction. Simply put, its not full time AWD
Great job!
It is AWD. Its a quattro, there is a diff and drive shafts at the back subframe. He likely only needs to disconnect yaw sensors or ABS and get something like a haldex controller to make it full 4WD.
Good work man!
The only advice I have is, when you weld the roll cage, don't do stop-start welding. That is you safety device and your life depends on that, better to have solid welds there. Less likely to get fatigue cracking then.
Nonetheless, impressive build.
Hi :) asking for my own chassis: You mean by no stop-start, to possibly weld all the joint in one single continuous pass keeping an eye to the heat affected area to be constant, and in case of interruption leave the joint to cool down before restarting? What can you advice me to MIG weld a thing like this but yeah, smaller ofc?
...Can I use animated wire on 1" 1/2 x .12 DOM or ...is it too thin like i hear saying, so better use gas?
...Is there a specific filler material you suggest me for this, other than the usual mild steel wire?
Thank you vm!
@bonovoxel7527 @bonovoxel7527 Yeah, I mean it will nearly be impossible to not have a stop in the weld, but the less stops the better right. I have seen welding like that on roll cages before, but what likely happens is, you get 'fisheyes' in the weld pool. This happens when you stop start like that. This can lead to early fatigue cracking. So I get that heat control is important to minimise "pulling effect" but it would be better to have a weld strategy, so you weld half the joint, then move to an opposite joint and come back to that one but take time to feather in you stop starts, i.e., grind the stop away so you can have penetration when your weld pool melts into the stop. As for weld process a good filler to use is ER70S6, this is slightly higher quality mild steel filler. Also ok for the likes of chrome-moly tubing, but chrome-moly might need heat treatment afterwards. A normal argon CO2 mix should be fine. Here we get them for different types of welding, but a standard mix should be good.
When I have to make structural components, I like to tig weld it, just because I personally feel I can control my HAZ better, also I know when I have penetration compared to mig. MIG is a really fast process for small welds though.
@@JanoLeRoux ❤️ I have the TIG and argon, wondering if I can save some bucks just buying the CO2 and a mixer of sort, for the MIG. You're excluding I could use animated wire I read.
I have the TIG but it's tough.
My idea, and here again asking your advice, is that despite a less accurate process overall, I could get more constant result with MIG.
(which I'll have to learn from the ground or close)
Not to mention my father pressing me to have back his car's place 😅
@@JanoLeRoux ah, ofc I read all the advice and at least, Tig or not I thought by myself of a welding plan. As a noob I'm horrified how much steel retracts and shrinks and that procedure you described it's now confirmed as my go-to plan for equalizing shrinkage. ;) thx again!
No, it isn't. If he wanted a damn buggy, he should have just build a damn buggy and got an engine, tranny, drivetraine combo that had some real balls. Instead he hacked up a good car to make an anemic embarrassment. This is beyond stupid.
Klasse gemacht.
This thing is sweet! I’m confused why you started with a full car if you’re only really going to use the subframe, drivetrain, and engine though.
Same
Because fixture tables are very expensive.
muy buen trabajo.
queda algo del coche inicial? para que usais un coche si al final no queda nada de éste?
The motor looks like it moves alot from the exhaust clip and is it going to stay fwd? Other that that this thing looks like a beast
Ye surely that was one of the benefits of tt
I would have captured the location of the suspension geometry and drive line placement with a jig. Once that was made, I could pull it off start building a new chassis around the jig and not worry where my engine, transmission, AWD and suspension will fit because I captured all that geometry already... Funny enough, I think they had to do that too for there suspension since each time they cut off a section, there had to be a way to locate the mounting points the new chassis.
The biggest benefit to building a jig that can come off the old chassis and then be put onto the new chassis to check the location of things you put in while you build. Or later on if you have an accident and want to a way to bend it back to shape. Just pull out your old jig and try to put it into place to find what is broken.
Also, I just did not like where they mounted the intercooler... Having the hot hair go into the cabin from the intercooler does not seem pleasant to me.
Igor, du bist ein MACHER!!!!!!
which welding machine was that, please let me know
Why did you cut away the AUDIO piece by piece until nothing of it is left? You cold have build that welded tube car already from scratch without trying to build it in that cut away AUDI
I agree, but ultimately the cost of the retained drive train components minus the working car on top of it probably was a negligible difference in cost. And the added benefit of working off the existing geometry I’m sure was huge too.
Moi qui n'ai qu'un pauvre 300cc hytrack,je rêve d'un vrai buggy 😢
C'est 365 ans qu'il me faudrait pour arriver à ça 😂
Amazing build. I suppose my only question would be, why go through all the trouble of removing the car bit by bit just to end up with a completely custom shell, when you could have just made the shell from scratch and saved a month or 2 and a fair bit of money on supplies.
Man, pretty cool shop, dyno, 1st time here to this page. Someone connected, meaning. Like, cool. Was that the gearing or rpm, seemed to max out easy ? I think id want a windshield and side opening coverage. Eating some dust. But definitely cool.
RRRRock star builder dude. :)
No, it isn't. If he wanted a damn buggy, he should have just build a damn buggy and got an engine, tranny, drivetraine combo that had some real balls. Instead he hacked up a good car to make an anemic embarrassment. This is beyond stupid.
Well done. I would pretty sad, though, sitting down in the cockpit and realising its front wheel drive. What a shame.
Why so many silly FWD comments. You can see the driveshaft and rear axle shafts
Mom, can we stop and get some Halo?
Mom: No son, we have Halo at home.
All kidding aside, awesome build man! Kudos to you.
How much money in chromeolly did it cost???
what thickness of pipes ??
It's awd, and he can buy a nut for the haldex in the rear that blocks an oil channel to get 50/50 ratio in low speeds for 32$ from bar-tek. Fun small budget build👍
its with haldex 4x4
@radical_builds buy the power insert for the haldex, then you'll get 50/50 power distribution up to 50kmh I think it's 32€
Audi TT 😭
Good job ,but you first idéa look better 🤗
Off road TT
TT RS. Oh so it is it. I was tricked, thought of a RS3 or 4, it's a TT. Thanks!
He did the right thing btw, even as a RS equipped I hear saying not too well about the TT as a model and the prices went down quickly for used ones. Like there was many ppl buying it but didnt become their fav car. But it's only what I heard saying, i never had the occasion to drive a TT.
is in produktion
mantap bang
You need 4wd
I have 4x4 quattro 😊
He needs a better engine. 😂
@@neonnerd1364 you're both wrong (I was tricked too bc on the final video the front tires slip first but then he does donuts and you can see there no way a FWD would behave like that, often they don't donut at all.
13:59 has rear differential and driveshafts
Only loocking at the angles of that transmission you can see problems. That welding with lot of tensinos are future problems.
Obvious that´s an incredibly work, and don´t think bad about me. I like the efford of the project, but poor guy the future buyer of that FWD shit.
Зачем надо было распиливать машину, если проще было сварить отдельно раму и туда поставить любые двигатель и подвеску???!
This is seriously weird approach and cutting up good TT just hurts. On the other hand channel name describe this approach perfectly.
Looks cool but front wheel drive for off road is daft, it sounds awful and it seems very slow. Skilled work but seen much faster and better handling cross karts.
When I seen the tack welding the tube frame together I had to leave. Gotta learn how to actually weld my guy
Welding- as much as possible was the overall concept. Weird method for my taste.
Nice work I like how you finish the end of the tubes most don't, how much suspension travel are you getting?
Reno 4
You need to convert it to AWD
It is a quattro system if I’m not mistaken
It isn't. Only the front two wheels spin.
Half the traction? WTF?
Front wheel drive? 😂😂😂
Should have kept it a TT.
It looks like 🐕 💩 now.
Hey colleague 👋😅, do you have an Instagram channel????
yes Igor Welder :)
OK....... WHY.......????? LOVE THE LOOK AND I WOULD BUY ONE TOMRROW IF IT WAS NOT SO MUCH POWER.................... KOOL TRAIL BUG........
You ruined a great car to make a go cart. If you wanted a buggy, build a damn buggy. Tube frame the whole way and get an actual 4wd setup with an engine that some balls. You have all the shit to male a real buggy, this makes sno sense. There really needs to be someone who stops stupid projects like this before they happen.
PUBG car
Работа проделана зря, столько сил и средств, чтоб сделать жалкое подобие brp maverick x3, едет хуже, а денег столько же.
Ты хоть видел сколько он стоит? За эту стоимость можно три таких собрать
Багги на переднем приводе? Странная затея.
Under powered 😢, front wheel drive....but ni design
А из багги собирешь ауди?
I commend your work, but I don't see the point in a fwd offroad rig. I can only assume that the point in starting with a complete vehicle is because you needed a vin.
with haldex 4x4