Zinc coating for diode laser "etching" glass & tile. Water clean up. High contrast.
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- Опубликовано: 10 янв 2021
- After trying every type of paint used on youtube vid's for diode laser etching tile and glass and dozens not shown on you tube , I found a spray on compound that works better for me.
Rust-oleum #7585838 cold galvanizing compound. I did my glass and tile tests at 50% power and 1000mm per minuet. I found that I could clean off the compound with warm water and a Brillo pad "steel wool". So no more harsh chemicals to clean of the spray paint I used before.
I have not tried this stuff on other materials yet but it could be interesting to see if it will work with any metals.
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Long story short I have stopped using the zinc coating as the new cans of it that I have bought are not giving me consistent results. Its like no matter how much I shake up the cans I get uneven results, so I am back to using black spray paint and cleaning it off with thinner again.
Damn it!
It's pricey buy you can always use the laser marking spray and just build it into your price or hobby
Supply chain issues here in Canada. I believe that I got lucky finding the last remaining can in Ontario, Canada.
@@edvanderryd13 Make sure you mix the spay can well or you will get inconsistent results. I made a simple can spinner from PVC pipe and a bolt to chuck in a drill.
@@Robothut Sounds like a good suggestion. I have no idea what the spinner looks like, but I will research it as I too have a had a few inconsistencies. The zinc works great on Stainless Steel marking too.
Fantastic, thank you for posting this! It is now on my next-to-do project list. Thanks for sharing.
Have fun with it and post if you come up with something cool.
I had read a little about this stuff in another post, and thank goodness I finally ended up here. I'm learning even more just reading the comments. Going to try and pick up a can of the "plain" stuff as well as a can of the "shiny" stuff. And some PVC to try and cobble together the paint shaker you fellas talked about. Mr. Robothut. THANK YOU SIR for starting this post and especially THANKS for sharing the bad results as well as the good. I really like the water/brillo clean up you mentioned. My 71 year old lungs were abused enough smoking cigarettes and just about anything else that would burn in my younger days. I just got my X Tool 10w laser and I'm trying to learn Light Burn. I still need to figure out how to dial the laser speed and power in before I punch the start button. Anyway, Thank You Again Sir for starting this post and Thanks to all the people here contributing there own trial and error results!
Awesome discovery and one I'll use when I etch tile and glass. Thank you! Short and to the point!
Make sure you mix the spray can well otherwise you will get inconsistent results. I found a simple adapter that fits a cordless drill that spins the spray cans that does the job well.
Thanks for the tip, got to try this, seems a lot easier than paint.
Remember when burning any thing like paint or plastic make sure you do it in a safe way. I use an enclosure that is vented to the outside world. Breathing anything that is burned with or with out a laser can be harmful if you do not do it safely.
thanks for the information. I have had pretty good success with Rust-Oleum gray primer., pretty good contrast and all. But this sounds even better , thanks again !
Your welcome, play around with it and feel free to share your results.
That's really awesome. Looks like a fun thing to do. Thanks for sharing.......
Very helpful video. Thanks. One tip that will speed things up - I have found a product called Spray 9 that makes the zinc coating practically wash away without needing to scrub with anything more than a wet sponge.
I have also found that using a spray can spinner will mix the paints or if using the zinc coating better than any amount of hand shacking. You can buy them or make one from PVC pipe and a bolt. Just chuck it in the drill slide in the spray can and spin it.
I tried this, works really well, I tried it on a piece of polished marble came out awesome.
Great news. thank you for posting your results .
I have a NEJE Master 2 Mini which has a 10W laser (2.5W optical) and ran at 50% power and 50ms burn,
Works great! I have only tried on white tiles and is darker than using white paint. Lowes didn't have the "Cold Galvanizing Compound" so I used the "Bright Galvanizing Compound" which is basically the some thing but a lighter color, I think it's 92 or 93% zinc. I didn't notice much of an odor but have acquit ventilation and do my burns in the garage. One thing I noticed was it tends to spark while burning so you need a lot of airflow moving across your work area. I use a old 120mm computer fan that works great.
Great news on the lower power laser working with it and the test of the bright galanizing compound. Thank you for posting your results.
I have used this process and it is great. Just wanted to add an observation. I just added air assist and when using with this process. it made a major improvement. I have a 15w laser, running 2000 mm/m at 45%. The out come is much darker than when running with out air assist. FYI my air assist is an old airbrush pump connected via aquarium tubing using a metal straw to direct the air. Not a complex solution.
Thank you for the update. I have a air brush pump so I think I will add a tube feed and see what happens.
Love the horse tree tile ♥️
Yes Pam likes that one also.
I been searching for the best method to burn the tiles with my 100w CO2 laser. The zink spray it's the secret to etching the tiles and get the best contrast. You are awesome ! thank you. The spray that you list it's discontinued. I can't find it anywhere. The one that I am using is rust-oleum item no v2185838 93% pure zinc. ( cold galvanized compound) I found it local for $25.
This is indeed very nice, thank you for sharing!
I do have one thing to say however, when you actualy use the coaster, the black will turn to a brownish color in time.
I think it wears off.
Just wanted to mention that.
Keep up the good work!
No, after 1 year of use the black in there forever and cannot be scratched off. It's not a coating on the tile, it is etched in.
Great tip, thank you!
Fantastic, I will try that. Thanks
Lets us know how it goes for you.
Found the Paint at Home Depot. It works fantastic.Used LaserGRBL Settings for Ortur 15w. 1 Bit Dithering Javis. Single Pass Qty. 20. Speed 900 Power 1000= 100%. No air Assist. I used a glass plate I found in a dollar store.Paint came right off. Trial and error got me to the above settings. Came out like the video's authors glass. Thanks Dude!
So cool that you posted your results using a 15W laser Is that about 3.5W optical power. So glad it worked for you. With my old 20W and the new 30W laser units the power for me would be 40% to 60 % max. Too much power burns the finish dark instead of frosted white looking.
After you laser an image onto a mirror, coat the back with paint. You can use clear lacquer or a colour if you like, but you really need to seal it.
I've been doing leadlight for a while and the normal practice is to seal the cut edges of mirror pieces with nail polish or similar, because if you don't the silvering will corrode over time as it is exposed to moisture in the air. You've probably seen an old bathroom mirror where the silvering has corroded around the edges. This is the result of moist air getting to the silvering around the edges and corroding it.
Sounds like a good idea to me. Thank you.
Ok thank you
I tried this process this last weekend. Sprayed on and burnt dark. YAY!!! Cleaned off and 97% on the image washed away as well. NOT SO YAY!!! tried on tile and glass, same results. Glad I only spent $10.00 on the can
That probably means that the solids in the spray can were not mixed in with the spray base paint, or that the laser power is too low. In any case it is good that the stuff was so low cost . I did a video on a spray can spinner that you use with a drill to realy get the solids mixed in with the gray paint base.
ZG-90 Cold Zinc Galvanising Spray 500ml (Amazon ).
Nonsense Zinc Galvanising Spray Paint Silver 400ml (40801) Screwfix will get some tomorrow.
I bought couple of years ago a 500mw laser 40x50 then a year later a 7w ortur and for Xmas the same machine as yours. My justification to her indoors was I could have a small, medium and large lasering areas without buying more stuff that pleased her. Luckily she didn't look behind my computer room door as I have 6metres of 20x40 extrusion to make the 40x50 into a 60x60. ; )
GREAT VIDEO, THANKS.
This is awesome , thank you so much!!
I just bought a second can of the galvanizing compound today at Home Depo for under $6 bucks. The wife wants some dollar store brown glass "glasses" etched the old can finaly ran out.
@@Robothut , thanks for uploading this video, can you do a vid on how do it?
@@Robothut and I hope the next project goes well :)
Great video. Unfortunately, though, this stuff is almost impossible to get. I'm guessing it will be going away totally, so I hope that there is a replacement. That's a really dark burn.
great job hard to find in the uk. classic " paint that dries quicker than paint " lol.
I bet there is a zinc type compound in the UK under a different name.
THANKS. GOOD INFO.
Looks like the results on glass are very good...silver frosted look... I'm wondering/concerned if the finished frosted look has very tiny glass shards/pieces that could get into your skin if rubbed by your hand?? Do you know if any additional treatment other than washing with the brillo pads is needed? Are the glass items safe to handle after you have etched and cleaned them? Thank you
We use the laser etched glass items the same as when we used to do chemical etched glass. No shards or pieces so far. If you run the laser hotter then you can get a darker image, that some times is better on some projects than the frosted white look.
Hello, just got my Outur Laser about a month ago. This video helped a ton, found this spray at the local store, and it is working good so far. Question on the mirror... what settings did you use to get that image?
I found that burning off the black backing on a mirror to be supper easy. Start with a low power like 30 to 40% if you do not see the image then before you move the mirror just up the power until you find what works for you. Remember you are not burning off the mirror coating from the front but from the back. Now you can etch a image on the front glass of the mirror if you want it would be the same setting you would use for glass or tile that you have painted. Some people have suggested Buring a image on the front and different image on the back of the mirror for a 3d type effect.
I'm hearing a lot of people are using titanium dioxide powder mixed with denatured alcohol with great results. Trying it myself soon!
Lets us know how it goes for you. I have seen the videos on this as well. Looks like a great way to go.
WOW. You are years ahead of me with your laser projects! Need to make Christmas presents! Great video, good audio. I installed that same faucet. We love that one! I do all the dishes, of course. So, this zinc cold etc, etc is not found at LOWE'S or HD?
I got mine at Home Depo. But I do have too say that the ;last can of it I bought has not been consistent in its results. I do not know if I have not shaken the can enough or if they changes the product. So right now I am back to using Walmart 99 cent black spray paint.
i bought a can at my local Lowe's in VA for about $13
Hey, I just got my rotary attachment hooked up and this technique has been working great--EXCEPT..... sometimes the burn doesn't seem to fully take. Sometimes parts of the image seem to fade away... the only variable I can think of here is either too much galvanizing compound, or not enough. I am using 1000 mm/min and 50% power on clear glass- most of the image looks great, but I've had a few places where the image or text fades. Have you had this experience?
I would have liked to have seen a response to this because I get the same. Did you ever figure it out?
Zink fumes are extremely toxic, I hope your extraction system is very good
My vented and enclosed laser cabinet is 100 %. but not because of the zinc, its for everything that you laser is toxic, burning paint and other top coatings is never good.
I'm assuming this was done with the new NEJE 30 watt module? That's a great idea btw!
It was but the old 20 watt unit would have worked just fine. Seems to take the power as paint does.
Thanks for the tip! I've had success using this but I notice I get burnt edges in some areas. Overscan option in lightburn does help reduce but wondering if you knew any other options that may help with that?
Lower the laser output level, I found 40 % on my 7.5 W laser is good, others have posted here that they are running 20 too 30 %, any thing over 60% seems to make it dark and burn.
Check your minimum power as well
Thanks for this video. One problem I’m having is cleaning the residue after lasering.
The image I’m printing come out looking a nice black, but the black “scratches” even when I use a regular green and yellow sponge. How are you using a Brillo pad and not scratching it?
Is my black not getting engraved properly? Or are my ceramic tiles cheap, or something else I haven’t thought of?
Try higher power and slower speed.
I have an orturo desktop 20w laser with the G4 lens; what should be the distance from the bottom of the laser frame (not the lens) to the top of the material? I don't seem to be getting a deep enough cut from reading these posts.
On the tile did you still have to take off the film with acetone, or did you spray directly on the tiles original coating?
Unlike others I have never had to pre clean the tiles. So straight out of the box of tiles. Now maybe there are some tiles out there that do have a film on them I do not know, but so far I have not found that to be the case for me. But if I wanted too I could use the warm water and brillo pad to pre clean the tiles.
Very interesting!
Do you ever test it on brass ? I'm searching for a product that can help me on this tricky material...
I have a diode laser atomstack x7
Did you try this on brass?
There are people trying to sell cans of this Rustoleum Cold Galvanize spray from $60 to $100 now! Crazy! Don't spend that amount, it would be cheaper to buy LBT or Brilliance, which is spray made especially for lasers. These work especially well on metals.
Wow. That is crazy. There are all kinds of inexpensive coatings that will work just fine if your diode laser is working right. I never paid more than $10 bucks for the Zink coating.
Thanks for the video. Used it but when i clean it nothing stays all gone. Do need to engrave on the other side or on the paint side any suggestion?please.
When nothing is there, that can be a few things. Laser no focused, Laser power to low or most common the solids in the Zink did not get mixed into the spray properly. I use a drill spray can spinner, you can find a video on that on my channel.
Have you tried other metal oxides? What colors do you get? Copper oxide give you copper color? What about iron oxide? Spray chrome?
Picked a can of this stuff up yesterday and gave it a try. The results weren't perfect but there were at least results, the other methods didn't even make a mark of the glass. Anyways some of the lines engraved came out black and some came out frosted. Any ideas why that might be? I'm guessing its something to do with settings, if you don't mind sharing, what do you use for what Wattage laser?
If the results were not consistent then I would think it has to do with how well the can was mixed up. I have to tell you that the last can on zink I bought did not work as well as the can I had been using in the video. So it might be they changed something in the product. When I want the frosted look I just use cheep walmart black spray paint for 97 cents a can. As for settings it will be different for every diode laser set up and how the diode laser is doing at the time. I can get use a setting of 50% power and get good results with the 7.5 watt optical power diode I have now. My first diode laser was 5.5 W optical power and it would work great at 60 % power until I used the laser to cut some wood at 100% power, after that I could never engrave tiles or glass again. It would still engrave cardboard / wood but not do the glass or tile "painted" engraving. So running the diode at 100% power lowered its optical output for ever. Then I bought the 7.5W diode. I have made sure to never run it past 80% power and its still working fine.
I have a question about this technique. We know that its possible to engrave the back side of a mirror. My question is thus, what if you wanted to have one image on the front side and a different image on the back side of the mirror. I have a set of beveled glass tiles that would be the perfect candidates for just such an idea. What are thoughts about this or have you already tried?
Seems like it might be hard to line up the 2 images if that was part of the plan. But there is no reason you could not do it. Maybe with the right images you could get a kind of 3d look . Or the back image is the one burned in to the mirror and could be back lit any color, the front image will be a shade of gray. Could be fun to try.
You can by Using Lightburn Print & Cut for Double-Sided Engraving method. watch this video "ruclips.net/video/Ft7RlVh4Kjc/видео.html"
You should probably put a disclaimer at the start telling people Zinc fumes are toxic and proper ventilation is needed. Metal fever is pretty nasty. All fumes are bad but I've seen a lot of these lasers set up on kitchen tables and not everybody knows about the dangers of metallic fumes. Seems to work pretty well though. Do you still have to run super slow to get it to fuse 1000mm/min roughly?
1000mm per/ min is not supper slow with laser diodes. Any one who runs a laser to burn things should already know that a enclosed and vented enclosure is the only way to safely use them. I think I have covered that enough in all my laser videos. Burning paint of any type and plastic can be deadly . Again if you have a laser then you should already know that.
@@Robothut once you're use to running +7000mm/min running at 1000mm seems super slow and size limiting, but some techniques it's the only way they work.
Any chance you could do a video showing how you do this on the LightBurn side? With image processing and whatnot? I bought some of this cold galvanizing compound but mine turn out horrible. Settings were 1200 mm/m, 20% power, 300 dpi on a xtool d1 10w.
What setting do you use on tile?
Thank you in advance!!
My laser unit cannot use Lightburn unless I change the firm ware, so I have to use the program that came with the unit for now.
As for settings I think if you go with 40 % to 50 % power you should be good. But also build a spray can spinner "mixer" I did a video on it, super easy and cheap but the only way to get all the solids in the cold galvanizing compound mix in properly.
Use pure titanium dioxide powder you dissolve in water with little alcohol there is directions on any bottle. It's a white powder. It's what's in the spraypaint that engraves black
Where did you find the horses used on the tile?
I did a search on line for horse Silhouette and horse line art for most of them. but a few of the horse pictures were drawn by my grand daughter. Many sites are free and many you have to pay. I just used the small jpeg image that pops up on the web search.
Did you let it dry before engraving or did you engrave it while being wet?
Let it dry.
I have used CGC on white tiles for a little bit and it was working just fine. All of a sudden, it doesn't seem to work. When I clean the tile, most of the black comes right off. How long do you let the coating cure before you burn it? I had an older tile painted and it worked OK but the new ones that I just coated seem to be the issue.
For me it never makes any difference if I let the tile dry or just walk right in and etch it. But when I did have a problem last years with the coating working, I found the solids in the coating were not getting mixed well enough by hand shaking the can, so I started using the drill spinner to mix the spray cans. I did a video on a simple build for that. And before I changed laser diode heads "over 1 year ago" I had a time when all etchings stopped working and it was do to the diode laser having lost power. I could still burn "etch" wood and carboard but not paint on glass and tile. It was like a switch had been thrown. One day it just toped working , so I upgraded to the NEJE diode and things have been OK for over 1 year.
@@Robothut - Thank you for the information. I just ran a material test using the new feature in LightBurn and the results were just what I had determined before. The material test worked just fine. Not sure why the actual burns I want to do if failing. I'll figure it out. I had noticed with my white painted tiles that there was a noticeable difference with tiles that had been sitting for several weeks vs just a few days. The older ones just weren't as black.
@@CNCATHome Lets know what you learn as you figure it out. Could help a lot of people.
@@Robothut - I started today by burning some white painted tiles and the burn worked as it should. I then burned some of my CGC coated tiles and they too worked as I had hoped. It seems that the CGC liked curing for a good 24 hours before use. That was the only change. I didn't even refocus my laser before running the material test pattern. I had placed a couple tiles on my space heater for the material test.
My takeaway from this is that letting the CGC cure for at least 24 hours seems to be what was needed. For today's burns, I did refocus the laser but it didn't seem to be out of focus when I looked at it. But I messed with it a little. 7 successful burns today. So let the CGC cure for 24 hours or so and make sure your laser is focused.
I did try washing the CGC off of one of the tiles using just water and it didn't come off at all unless I went after it with my fingernail. I didn't need the water for that. I makes me think that before it has fully cured, that the water might wash it off more easily. Using lacquer thinner on freshly painted tiles almost rinses the stuff right off without any scrubbing.
@@CNCATHome Great info and update. Thank you for sharing with us.
Hallo und guten Tag aus Deutschland.
Ich bin von der Idee begeistert! Nun muss ich versuchen, hier bei uns ähnliches Zeug zum sprühen zu finden. Ich werde später berichten.
Habe es auch noch nicht geschafft, alle Kommentare zu lesen. Es ist mühsam, sich alles von Google übersetzen zu lassen. :-)
Danke für das Teilen deiner Information
Yes, google translator can really get things wrong sometimes and it does take time. Make sure you mix the spray cans very well, with all the solids in the spray they like to settle out and then you get poor results. I posted a recent video on a spray can mixer you can make at home and use a drill to . to mix the spray cans very well.
How long do you let the cold galv dry for before lasering?
I have waited 2 minutes when I am in a hurry and I have had it set over night when I was not in a rush. Makes no difference.
@@Robothut awesome thanks for the info also what settings are you using for glass
@@christopherflanigan4789 1000mm per minute and 45 to 60 % power. I like the look at 55% power on dark brown glass as its very white looking and has good contrast to the dark glass. I find the more power I use the darker the etching to some extent.
@@Robothut again Thanks for the info definitely going to try it out this weekend
Hi. Do you think the black will last if you fire it in a kiln to app800 Centigrade?? Many thanks
That would be great test. 1472 F. I would bet that it does since the black was burned in from a laser that should have been that hot or more already. Let us know what happens if you try it.
What settings did you use for the tile I tried 1000 speed and 65 power and it wasn't enough
It might be that the solids in the spray can are not mixed up well enough. Thats why I did a video on using a drill spinner to mix the zinc solids up.
So my local store got some in, and I snagged a few cans. You said that it dries fast, but how long should one wait before engraving on tile?
I do not wait, as soon as it is dry to the touch, I am ready to go. Make sure you mix the can well or the results will be poor. I use the spray can spinner DIY that I did a video on.
@@Robothut 👍
Only $6.48 at Home Depot for the 20oz spray can today (06-23-21).
Mr. Robothut, Do you know if this kind of engraving works with a stainless steel too?, I am trying to mark a back of a watch which is of 304 stainless steel, with a 10 Watts diode laser
I have seen videos on youtube where they do mark stainless steel, but I have not been able to do so. My laser is only 7.5 W optical power. Now anodized metal I can do.
More Power You Need. at least 10 watt optical Power at 95%. I have a chinese "80" watt with 10 watt actual output
@@darrinjones9387 how does it went with your 80ws?
@@leonardoroger6472 It is 12 watt optical power. It will etch stainless steel when focused correctly
What kind of power in watts and what type of laser are you using with the glass? I have been experimenting this evening with this technique.
On glass. So far the glass is not etching/engraving😩
I will say I am using a diode laser an original Ortur.
optical power is 5.5 watts. but you only need run it at about 60% power. If you have ever run your diode laser at 100 % power then the damage is done and the laser no longer will output enough power to do this. You can still etch paper and wood but not glass.
@@Robothut why...what does the glass do to the laser at 100 percent
@@mikecrase3047 The glass does nothing to the laser. The diode lasers over heat at 100% power and that damages the diode so that it never puts out full power again. In fact just running a diode laser it will lose power based on time. They have charts that show the power loss over time, and its losses a lot more power the hotter you run them. Most of the very new diode laser have put in two diodes lasers in each unit and joined the beams, and better cooling they do not offer you more power but they will last much longer. They also have made the laser dot size smaller and square so they can direct the laser light in a tighter spot so you can do the same job with less power and higher resolution. Some day when my laser diode needs replacing I will go with one of the new types.
@@Robothut thanks for the info
Ortur LM2 20w laser. i tried many power settings and speeds but the black on tile washed off after brillo pad. do you have a recommended setting for pictures?
thanks!
It sounds like your laser power is degraded. I had the same thing happen on my 20W Vegotec after I had used it at 100 % power for 4mm wood cutting. After that every thing looked normal for cardboard and wood but I could no longer do tile or glass engraving. So I replaced the laser head with the NEJE 30W unit that has a much larger heatsink and fan for the laser diode. Have not had a problem since then. if you laser is working right you should only need a power setting of 40% to 60% and speeds in the 1000mm / minuet.
@@Robothut I had the same issue with my AtomStack A5 and it's brand new. I just tried again at 100% power and I think around 600 speed. Much better.
@@craigtaco9875 I hoping to hear that the AtomStack would be a great Laser unit. I guess they are kind of the same.
What strength laser is needed fur these results? Would 8W be adequate?
If it 8 W optical power then thats is way more than I have, if it 8W power supply rated then I do not know as that would be very low optical power, what maybe 1 to 2W optical ?
What kind of laser do you use?
And does it give off any fumes?
Burning anything with a laser gives off fumes. Always run your laser in a sealed box that is vented to the outside. I have covered this many times in my videos. Back when this video was made I have a vigotech 20W "5.5W optical power" laser now I have a NEJE 30w "7.5W optical power".
@@Robothut thanks
hello, what laser engraver do you use? thanks greetings
The main unit is a VIGOTEC VG-L7X but I have replaces the laser diode with a NEJE 30w "7.5W optical power".
What are your laser settings and how heavy a coat do you apply?
50% power a single coat.
@@Robothut thanks...what speed to you run is it between 100 to 250mm/m?
I just got the right paint and used on tile. The problem I have is the indelible image is not black it is almost the same color as the paint. what is wrong?
Not sure, I can get a dark image with black spray paint or the Zinc coating. I do know the zinc coating gets darker the higher the power you hit it with and the black spray paint kind of goes the other way, if you hit it to hard it is more a frosted white. So you might try different power settings.
Are you spraying the tile completely with the compound then burning? Settings?
Yes a nice coat of Zink coating or black spray paint. Then on my laser 50 to 60% power at 1000mm per minute.
@@Robothut Thank you for your quick response.
@@Robothut Sorry one more question so plain white tile then a good coat of galvanized correct?
@@thomasnadeau5076 Yes white tile or even clear glass. Then you will find the zinc coating covers so well that a single coat is good enough. or you can use black spray paint, a few coats and it will work but the clean up after takes paint thinner and the contrast is a bit less. You will have to experiment with your power setting as all or diode lasers seem to be a bit different .
Hello, what settings were you using? I have a 20w ortur
You would need about 50% power to 60% and speed 1000mm per minuet .
@@Robothut thanks again for the video and information
I have this ortur laser and did 50% 100 mm/m and it washed right off. Did you have any luck?
@@jonvanderwood7882 I have the same problem no matter what combo of power and speed I use
Does this spray contain Titanium Dioxide? I think that is the active compound in white paint that leaves the marking behind on tile... I'm looking into using a titanium dioxide nano coating spray for this process.
Here is a link to the Technical data sheet.
cdn.paintsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Technical-Data-Sheet-20.pdf
@@Robothut thank you!
Does this have any fumes when engraving, like with paint?
I am sure it does and just like paint they are probably toxic. I use and encloser that is fan vented to be safe when ever I run the laser. Ventilation when burning things is just as important as proper eye protection.
my tiles didn't burn as dark as yours. In fact, mine burned to a kind of grayish/metallic look. Although it's pretty, I really wanted the black. any idea why it would do this? I've tried different settings and get the same result. When I tried white paint it was a much lighter, almost transparent engraving. I'm at a loss of what else to try. Can you help me? Thanks,
Try less power, I found that there is a range where you get the peak contrast, too little power and its light or washes off, to much power and it gets lighter, right in the middle setting I get a dark result. I also like using black paint and the black paint does not reflect the laser light as much as the white paint does so it burns in better.
I'm looking to "mark" not etch 2oz Shot Glasses. One fellow used Cermark. It's kind of pricey. Do you find that this Cold Galv paint leaves a nice rich black marking on glass, or more like grey? TIA
Gray. black paint works also but leaves a gray mark. I see many guys are using titanium powered these days to get a dark mark. Search RUclips and you should find a few videos.
@@Robothut Thanks. I actually have a bag of it in the shop. I'm trying to figure out a way to do production style work for shot glasses 50 at at time. That kind of work. One of my customers in Florida tells me that most of their customers gravitate towards screen printed shot glasses because it's easier to see the artwork -vs- etched. The Cermark method will be very quick to apply, like your Galv paint. I've ordered a small 2oz can to test.
@@pfiltz Let us know how it goes as far as a nice dark marking.
@@Robothut Will report back with evidence... ;)
i bought this product and it does not come off with water. I tried everything from alcohol, goo gone, etc. I did eventually come off with mineral spirits with alot of elbow grease. Took way too much time as I have a bunch of these to make. Although it did turn out darker as I like the higher contrast.. This was being applied to stainless steet tumblers.
Must stick way better to metal than to glass or tile. I guess it would as it is designed for metal applications. Thank you for the update, now we know not to use it on metal unless we plan on using thinner to remove it.
What is the make of your laser and power setting.
The 5.5 optical power laser sold as 20 W worked great with is method. I now have a NEJE 30w that is 7.5W optical and it works great with it as well. Power setting with either laser is in the 40% to 60% range.
I dont get it with the tiles, what do you do with them after you laser them? I mean, are you decorating your house with random tiles?
People use them as coasters, you know for hot or cold drinks, so they do not ruin the expensive wood tabletops. Maybe you do not have any wood table tops or do not use coasters. Thats fine.
@@Robothut I don't, I make my children stand there and hold my beer while I relax as a tyrant.
Do you have to reverse the image like when lasering on black paint? I tried a normal image like when painting white on a white tile, and the image is not black, only burned away the zinc layer; not the tile itself. I used the same power settings as with the white painted tile.
I have never had to reverse the image when etching to tile. I do reverse the image when etching glass mirror as the image is on the back side but viewed from the front. I plan on doing a update video, covering the 1 year mark of the NEJE laser unit , air assist and the zinc coating. Long story short I have stopped using the zinc coating as the new cans of it that I have bought are not giving me consistent results. Its like no matter how much I shake up the cans I get uneven results, so I am back to using black spray paint and cleaning it off with thinner again.
@@Robothut Interesting, this information should be pinned to the top of the comments so other followers like me don’t just go out and buy it only to find out the results aren’t the same as yours were with current product.
@@Jerry-Mesa I am planning on a new follow up video soon and I am also interested in seeing followers have the same results or if it is just the last few cans I bought that gave me problems. But I will do as you suggest and pin that the zinc is not working well for me at this time.
@@Robothut Thanks. Since my can just arrived in a relatively large box with 85% packing material I guess I should at least try it. Just got my laser so my result inconsistency won’t be a measure. lol
@@Jerry-Mesa Lets us know how it goes. Maybe I just got 2 bad cans from my local Home Depo. What I would see happen is part of the burn would work just fine and places in the burn would not etch in to the glass or tile. All the same power. So that means that the zinc coating was not consistant.
Hello. I'm using the same brand, but does give me the black color like yours..
Any ideas why? They come out gold-ish..
My best guess is that the solids in the can are not 100% mixed in with the liquid part of the paint. I use a spinner mixer and my drill to get it mixed in all the way. Other than that it is just a mater of the power setting.
How do you set up your picture settings in lightburn?
I do not use light burn, but there are many videos on how to use light burn on youtube that I watched.
Thank you!
I tried your method but the engrave came out really light colored. You can see and feel the engrave but it’s just not dark. Any suggestions?
Try reducing the power. I found there is a sweet spot. Too little power and it light and really engraved to much power and it is lighter. I have a follow up video Sunday the 23 that shows a simple spray can mixer you can make that really gets all the solids in the Zinc mixed up well and that is important for a dark engrave.
Will this work with a CO2 laser? I have no problem lasering glass but always looking for a new or better process.
I do not know as I do not has a C02 laser . I would think that it would if you set the power level low enough, too high of power even with a laser diode is not the best results , so start low and work your way up.
Maybe you can help me with this. When I used this it ruined the lens on my engraver. The residue from it flew up and got on the lens and then got etched into the lens effectively making my laser useless now. Anyway to prevent this from happening again?
Use air assist. Most laser unit have this stock these days or as a option. All coatings that you burn will make and deposit on the Lense if you do not set up a air assist system.
@@Robothut I have air assist but had it off. Lesson learned
i tried this product on ceramic tile and did not get good results at all. with the same setting using white rustoleum i got far better results
It is hard to get the solids in the Zink coating mixed in completely. I did a video on a spray can spinner that really does a good job of mixing the solids in. But if you got a something that works for you why change, right. I used to get really good results from the 99-cent white spray paint from Walmart, I think the price is $1.50 now.
I want to try it on aluminium with fiber laser .
Lets us know it works.
Ask any blacksmith what scares them most they will tell you zinc fumes. Anything zinc(galvanized metal) heated will kill you. Be VERY careful about breathing the fumes!
How many passed you do for the tile??
1 pass at about 60% power.
Is this Zinc coating working with metal engraving ?
I have not had any luck doing metal engraving with the 20w "5.5W optial" or 30w "7.5W optical" diode laser. Anodized aluminum works with a diode laser but you do not need the zinc coating for that.
@@Robothut Thank U .
I will try this Zinc coating with glass :D
A NEJE 450nm 30 W could be enough?
@@ingenia-tec5194 More than enough. I used my 20W for a long time on glass and tile with paint and with zinc. I had to upgrade to the 30W after I made the mistake of running the laser at 100% power to cut wood, after that I could no longer engrave glass or tile. From the first time you turn the laser on it's power output is going down. This is true even with the large CO2 lasers. But the diode lasers do not last long if you run them at 100% power.
tried with "zink spray" for cold galvanizing but did nothing on the bottom of a glass i tried... neje 20w 5ms and 50% power from neje app. Am i doing something wrong?
You might try 60% power but I think it should have worked if you focus is right. You can always try black spray paint as well. It works just not as much contrast. If black spray paint does not work then you know you have a problem with the laser, either the focus or the optical power of the laser has declined and can not do the job any longer. Just recently some of the diode laser manufactures are sharing grafts that show how the laser optical power output starts dropping from the first time you use them and if you have ever run them at 100% power how much faster they lose there power rating.
@@Robothut thank you!
I can’t get this to work…
So I noticed that 7 months ago you pinned the comment that you had stopped using this as you are not getting consistent results. Some newer comments indicated that you just needed to mix it better. Do you still think this product is the way to go?
Once I built the spray can paint spinner, that 100% mixes the solids in the spray can I used it again. I did a video on the simple DIY spray can mixer that uses a drill and PVC pipe to mix the cans. I still like using cheap black spray paint and even white spray paint for some projects.
@@Robothut Thanks for the reply, I have 3 cans of this stuff. I will look at the spinner.
Ace Hardware Has this also. About 8 bucks can.
Recently I have not been able to get consistent results with the new cans I have bought, so I am back to using black spray paint. I do not know if they changed the product or if I just can not get the can shaken good enough or what.
Has any one tried using zinc oxide diluted in alcohol and sprayed on glass?
What wattage laser do you use?
These days I use the NEJE 30W that is 5.5W optical power.
will it work on polished stainless?
I have seen videos on youtube using mustard to do this but I have not tried it yet.
ruclips.net/video/B60nXwhK9gk/видео.html
@@Robothut theres no available that type of brand in my country so abought "spanjaard cold zinc galvanising spray" it did mark on a ceramic plate only problem is its kinda hard to remove the coating wen i washed it with water and scrub with scotch bright
@@Pulutoy07 You may have to use paint thinner for your version of the zink coating.
@@Robothut i should have bought the same as yours, more expensive but atleast less hassle.. great video really helps
Interesting discovery. I think you are quite well ventilated with your box with the extractor fan? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever
Super well ventilated, no smell at all.
I have ortur 20 wat lm2. i need to know your settings using 900 mm/min 90% power thanks
just as a reference...
1000mm/ min at 50 to 60% power.
Thank you for the reply. Did the 30 watt new laser head make a difference , torn between spending the money on the head or saving for a new 60 watt... I have not run my laser at 100 percent very many times but I feel it is diminished in power...
@@mitsuman5 So the 30W "7.5W optical" has been working great. Only time will tell how long it lasts. If you have the room for the 60 watt set up then go for the big boy. So many things can be done with them.
how can i send you a pic???
@@mitsuman5 You could up load a video or image to youtube and if you did not want the whole world to see it post it as UNLISTED then share the link with the ones that you do want to see it. Or on my Website www.Robothut.robotnut.com there is a section where you can contact me.
in case of zinc poisoning drink alot of milk
Do u spray the mirror?
No , the laser just burns off the black rear coating of the mirror. You do not etch the mirror from the front but from the back. So you should invert the image so that when viewed from the front it looks right.
@@Robothut and what settings u use on it?
@@rigopulido4897 That would depend on your diode laser. Start with a low power setting like 40%, if you do not see results then increase the power.
@@Robothut thanks I will tray I have a xtool 10w
What settings do u usually use to do this
Any where from 40 to 60% power depending on the look I am going for, my program lists speed in mm per minuet so around 1000.
@@Robothut that's weird I had it at 900speed and 90 power and didn't do anything to mine
@@lil_bofo3103 Sounds like your diode laser has lost power. When my first diode laser lost power it would still cut and mark carboard and thin wood but would not mark glass or tile no matter what type spray I used. So then I bought the NJE diode laser and things have worked great for 1.5 years now.
@@Robothut I have a co2 laser but will check my alignment and mirrors that could be the issue thanks for heads up
@@lil_bofo3103 Two other things. co2 laser is more powerful you might try even lower power setting like 20% you might be blasting the coating away. Also The Zink coating is so heavy with solids that you have to make sure the can is really mixed up well, the spray looks the same mixed and not mixed, but without the zinc mixed in it will not work. So I did a video on building a simple spray can spinner that will mix the cans so that you know you are getting the zinc solids mixed in .
Hello, has anyone tried laser marking for laser?
Settings you used?
Depending on your laser 40% to 60% power. But if you have ever run your diode laser at 100% power then the odds are you can not do this , diode lasers do not like running at 100% power as the heat build up in the diode makes them lose optical power big time.
I tried this yesterday, and it did etch the tile, but i had to go back and sharpie the etching to be able to see it. Maybe i cut too fast not sure.
I run at 1000mm / minuet at 40 to 60% power.
Yeah, it works GREAT!!! but leaves massive build up on your laser engraver.
Odd. I do not get any build up. But I use air assist these days. Also I have moved on to titanium mixed with IPA in a spray bottle. Works great. Some good videos on this on youtube.
I can not manage to get my images to stick.what am don’t wrong?I have a 5.5e diode laser
Not sure what a 5.5e diode laser is, maybe the e is a typo. The only time I have had a problem etching painted glass or tile was when my first cheep diode laser had lost power do to being run at 100% one time. My new NEJE is still working fine after 1 year. So not sure what brand laser you have but if it was a low end one then even though you can still burn wood and cardboard you will not be able to etch glass or tiles. At least that was what happened to me. So I replaced the low end laser diode with the NEJE unit.
@@Robothut yes you are right.my laser lost it’s power 😞 it’s not even engraving wood anymore.I sure learned my lesson!
@@adalidfuentes5307 It is OK, just replace the laser head with a new one, they are so much better these days and last a long time.
@@Robothut I had a twotrees totem s now I got me a atomstack laser module and mounted it right on.hopefully I have better luck with this laser head.it’s the m40.also got a neje 10w on The way
@@adalidfuentes5307 Both sound like great diode laser heads and should work very well for.