ATTENTION FRIENDS! I missed an important step! UGH! After your tile is lasered, you must clean the tile with Lacquer thinner or Acetone. Use a paint scraper and microfiber cloth to clean up the excess paint!
Have you tried cutting polystyrene (plastic) sheet with that 15w laser? I'm a model railroader and have recently purchased a resin printer and am printing detail parts with it, Working great. Now the club I belong to is working on replicating several buildings specific to the "home town" in the mid to late 1950's. Kits are just not available and scratch building large downtown buildings is very time consuming. I was considering a laser cutter but I need to know if a 15W laser would cut .04-.06 sheet styrene or if I should buy something more powerful. Would make punching out windows a lot easier.
@@oldiron1223 blue laser diodes are not the best laser to cut styrene , visble laser like those are not to good for white surfaces, Co2 is way better for styrene
I just wanted to say I really appreciate this video. I went out and got the materials, and did a bunch of burns today. I finally got my settings dialed in, and the results are incredible! There's a little blurring, but with that much detail, I'm not surprised. I have a Full Spectrum Muse (C02 laser--45w), and my settings were 100 power, 10 speed, 0 blur, 500 dpi. At 90 power and 20 speed, it was still only a gray. At 1000 dpi, the blur was much more pronounced. And then cleaning it with acetone after took away all those impurities in the paint--the bubbles and fingerprints, and left a nice dark burn. I'm so excited for this!
As a new subscriber I can honestly say that you talked us through that process very well. Many thanks. I am new to the whole laser scene and have learnt so much from this one video. 👍
Due to your Video on the White and Black paint tile segments I have been able to do some truly amazing tile pieces, much thanks for your training and sharing...
I have watched all sorts on HOW TO on this subject. This one sorted it out no problem at all. I have done some great tile engraving after watching this video Thanks
Have you ever used the Rust-Oleum cold galvanized spray paint? It apparently burns darker plus you just wash it off in the single afterwards and its the same effect as this but less chemicals to clean with.
I am going to follow this exactly tomorrow night lol..do you know how happy i was, I brought tiles, i brought light burn, i brought da big gimpn plugin for gimp aaaand i brought a ortur laser master 15w. I stuffed up my first few tiles, then i find this video with you! Using exactly the same gear!! So excited. Thankyou mate!! You have yourself another Kiwi subscriber 🤙😁
Thanks for the video. I'm going to give this a try soon. One thing that caught my eye. At around 10:20, shouldn't the numbers, written on the tile be, .08, .09, ...., instead of .8, .9?
Great video and instructions took awhile but got it figured out and now can't stop etching tiles. 10 stars and a pat on the back keep up the videos and never learn to must.
Little mis-information here, When you set pass-through, the Line Interval and DPI settings are completely ignored - it tells you this right there in the tool tip. It burns at whatever DPI you got out of the Da big Gimpin plugin. All that prior testing at 0.11 line interval made no difference what so ever had no bearing on the final outcome.
But one can turn off "Pass Through" to set these parameters if so chosen to do so? Or is it better to let the program (GIMP or Image-R) adjust the outcome? Thanks for the tutorial!!
Very cool! My only question is one that might be silly, I'm not sure. How do you line up where the tile is and where the laser is firing? I've never used a laser burner before and that really puzzled me.
What I will do is take a thin piece of plywood, then laser a 4x4 square on the wood, then I will place my graphic within the square so everything is lined up. LightBurn also allows you you draw a virtual beam around your object at low power so you can line things up! Thanks for asking! Great question!
@@jessd3012 another option is place your tile anywhere, hit fire in lightburn to show where the dot lands. Move head to corner of the tile and set the start position to "Current Position" and hit start.
"zeroing" is what you need to do to calibrate the machine with whatever medium you are working with. Most CNC machines do automatic zeroing for you, however, those machines run in the thousands of dollars.
Hey brother just ran across your channel, by far one of the best how to for diode laser on tile i have seen, really enjoying it. Hope you upload more on it. I have a 40 watt k40 and a NEJE 20 watt like your orture. Have a blessed day.
After you printed on the painted tile, did you wash the tile off with anything. You went from printing on the painting tile to show the finished product. Was just wondering if there was any steps in between???? Thank you.
I have a 3018 CBC, so my end print is grey. I assume that is due to the limitations of the laser? Also, I’ve been using different colors under both black and white paint, so paint over paint. The result is amazing, BUT you must protect it at that point since you need to preserve the upper paint level. Try it. Wild and pretty results.
Really Informative Tutorial! Thanks for sharing. I would have loved to see the final process, as in your method of cleanup and sealing the tiles if it's necessary, lol!
Not only was this extremely informative, but I absolutely loved your sense of humor! Tile, scraper... scraper tile. That made me laugh so so much! Thank you for that and thank you for the amazing tutorial!!!!
Really cool sidestep from the 3D printing! Really easy and explained the process out. Anyone that does hobby work, adding custom engraving of photos or images, this would be a great start and addon to thier skills/business. Any thoughts or ambitions to step into the world of desktop CNC milling? For small projects in wood/plastics/soft metals. (That's where I'm at, trying to move into desktop cnc, just too indecisive on what machine to get lol)
Thanks Garret, you videos have been helping me a lot with my K40.I Hope You and Your Family Have a Great Christmas.Also Thank you for coming on my Live Stream. Your Awesome my friend.
Have watched this many times but when I try to do it myself, with the exact set-up, except with a newer sw version I get a 9DPI with the .11 line interval. Yes you read that right DPI= 9. Hope you can tell me what I might be doing wrong.
After you are done burning, what's the process from there? Will the image wipe off like it will the black paint on a white tile? Are you sealing the tile after to protect the work?
What is the purpose of the white paint on white tile? I have a glowforge and get awesome results on white tile, but the engrave is clear. I then run black ink into the tile and wipe it off. Then clear coat. I have also done the white tile painted blacks method a few times. Also, Still perfecting my standard white tile settings for use on a black tile engraving the black away. Still dialing in the power settings to get through the black layer better.
There is a chemical reaction of the paint from the heat of the laser that removes the glase and color from the tile. The tile substrate is then etched by the laser. Only paint the the same compounds as the one he used will produce the reaction. If you turn the tile over and laser the back you will see that it will laser very good at LOW power and no paint. I do this to sign each tile that I do.
Wow looks great ! Question if the burn is on the paint why is it so durable ? Your scraper did not bother it so I guess solivent will not bother it once its burned either. Is it that durned paint is super tough ? Or is there something else happening to the tile when the paint burns ? Thanks again. this looks so great I think I will have to give it a go.
Great question! It has something to do with the paint and the focused beam of the laser. It's almost like as the paint burns, the intense heat actually scorches the tile and literally burns the image into it. No amount of solvent, sandpaper, scraper will remove it! It's quite amazing!
Hi Garrett, well, I did my first engraving job on cork. Is there a way I and send you 2 pictures of what it should look like versus how it turned out? I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. thanks
Amazing ! What type of laser do you recommend ? LU2-2 1.6W, LU2-4-SF 5.5W, LU2-4-LF 5.5W, LU2-10A 10W, LU3-20A 20W. What differences would this make, so that I understand correctly.
Good afternoon I am trying to get started doing the Laser engraving. I bought a Atomstack and can't get it to work. Did I waste my money or should I have bought a Ortur Laser master 2. Any input from you or anyone on here can help Thanks
Tonight I Printed off user manual for the Laser Master 2. Am going to try using the info they have for the Atomstack. It goes into detail the Atomstack came with no owners manual
Hey I was wondering if this method would work on marble as well? Thanks for the help I have tons of marbles and I want to recycle them if I can. I loved your techniques it’s so exciting!
ive just bought a 20w laser engraver this morning after watching your videos. never , ever ever done laser etching before. sofor the most part i understand your videos, the only part i dont understand is, how does the laser know where the tile is to cut it ? i dont want to set off the cutter and it starts cutting the table underneath? thanks for the inspiration.
If using this as a coaster, what do you recommend putting on the back so it doesn't scratch wood tables etc. And what type of glue (if necessary) to adhere that material to the back of the tile? Thanks so much love the videos
How often are you performing the focus procedure? Every piece of tile? I am looking at the Ortur 15w for photo laser engraving on tile and wood. I am also looking at the ACRO DYI with a JTech 4.2 watt output laser engraver. That comes with a focus height plate to lower the head to. It is quite a bit more in regards to price versus the Ortur. I am curious how much focus adjusting the Ortur requires in general? It is worth noting either one will require dialing in software parameters to get the focus dialed in. I am inquiring about the mechanical side of focusing the laser. Great video
Hey 3DPrintFarm... the Laser Master 2 20w is currently nearly identically priced as the Laser Master 1 ... is this a no brainer to buy the 2 or how do you feel about the machines compared side by side?
Can you please tell me why you chose 600 dpi for your resolution? If i understand, you have a line spacing of 0.11 mm. If I am calculating this correctly this would be a DPI of approximately 230 DPI. If you divide an inch (25.4 mm) by the width of your dots 0.11 mm, then you should get a pixel perfect 230 DPI. At 600 DPI your laser program will read approximately every 2.6 lines and average the laser firing. Could you please re-run this exercise with the 230 DPI to see if it will increase the overall quality of the picture? This is the method I use when using my fiber laser on gloss black tile. My laser outputs a laser spot of 0.042 mm on most gloss black tile so I use 600 DPI and it comes out pixel perfect. Also, does your burning program allow for the input of bitmap images? Using a 1-bit bitmap image instead of a JPEG will give your laser exact on/off timing for each pixel when firing. The plugin you are using appears to create a black and white dithered image which would be what you need to create a 1-bit bitmap for this application. You would just export a bitmap instead of a jpeg. Sorry I am not saying that what you are doing looks bad, I am just wondering if the technique can be improved by calculating the actual DPI and using an image that represents exactly where you want each pixel to be fired.
I have done this with 4-1/4 x 4-1/4 tile and worked great so I bought a box of 100 count and a new can of paint and now none of them have worked so my question is Does it have to be a certain type of tile after burn is complete see image on paint but when paint is removed image is gone
do you think that the air assist when purchasing. I do plan on only working with tile but I am sure I will have other requests. This will be my very first laser purchase :) pretty excited
Hi 3DPrintFarm, question here: so my local Lowe’s doesn’t carry the home accent series of rust-oleum can I substitute that for the rust-oleum advanced formula white gloss and expect to get the same results?
Hello Sir, I have an Ortur Laser Master 2, 20W and I have been trying to do the Norton White tile method in your video, but something is wrong. Using lightburn and following all the prep steps...I cant even get the laser to mark the paint. If I crank power to 100% and slow the speed down to 200 mm/min, it'll work, but something tells me there is a problem here, I shouldn't have to run it this slow right?
Great question. Depending on the surface area of the image. So.. suppose the image covered the entire tile.. that would take approximately 1 hour based on 1200mm/min speed
I have a NOOB question. When you are focusing the laser at low power .5%-2% using the fire button or even a "shift/frame" procedure. Can you do this WITHOUT laser googles on? Because I am new to laser and want to be safe first. I have been using them but find I cannot see accurately enough to tell if it is focused or if it is centered correctly. On top of that I have a ATOMSTACK A5 PRO and it has a added Red shield around the laser for added protection. I don't think the Pro can be adjusted but the supply a roughly 1/8 spacer to use between the surface and the shield. Seems to be fairly clean edges when engraving on black card stock. But feel it could be tweaked abit still. Going to build a enclosure next so I can get the stink out of the shop when burning paints off.
Thank you for a great tutorial. I have watched it several times and have learned a great deal. Having followed your instructions carefully, I get some different results. I am using a laser just like yours. My engravings have improved as I followed your instructions on focusing the laser, but I never get the dark burns that your video shows. I have changed power, dithering and speed settings and only get grey results. Any suggestions you might have would be much appreciated.
It's a bit of a misnomer. The 15w is more of a 4.5w output.. The 20w is more like 5w. The 7w version is more like 2.5w laser output. Any of the above will give you good results if the beam is focused. The larger the output, the wider the beam also.
So after watching this I am thinking of ordering the V2. Are you saying that the 20w isn’t necessarily better than the 15w because the beam is wider? Does that make it less precise? Which model do you recommend I purchase? I was ready to spend the few extra $ for the 20w. Also for the focus process, does that apply to the smaller machine you used in the green and black hulk video prior? Thanks again. Great video.
Purchased a 15W laser and the housing is larger than the sleeve any ideas on what to do and does the motherboard need to be replace when going from a 5W to 15W ?
Great tutorial! If i have a 5W laser, will this process still work or is my laser too weak? I checked your machine's link and those had a higher W rating. Thanks!
Are there any consumer-quality laser cutters available that can actually CUT ceramic tile? If not, is there another technology that can be used to do this? Thanks!
Hi there, I am trying the white tile Burn and have come across an issue. I did a power test from 15% to 85% with my Ortur Laser Master 2 20w and found the optimum speed was 1200mm and power of 80%. I am using the rust oleum gloss white and when I used an imported design at my specifications it is actually burning through the paint and the glaze. Have you come across this before?
thank you for these videos. they are very helpful. I am new to the laser engraving/cutting world. I have the 20w Ortur Master 2. Please keep them coming.
Question that I've seen a few times in comments.. Why paint a white tile with white, engrave tile, then remove the white paint? Will this process work without painting, and removing paint steps?
One question. I used the rust-oleum universal all in one gloss white paint . parameters are the same how ever i am using the 20 watt laser master 2 and my tiles are not coming out dark, kind of a greyish tone .. how can i get it darker i did burn at 1200mm/mn and 100 power...
Use Matte Primer+Paint (Krylon fusion) Matte absorbs and transfers the energy much better. Gloss is reflective, thus reflects away light energy from the laser.
Hi, great channel! I just got an Ortur master 2 - 20W Laser, I have contacted Ortur for the drivers for Lightburn...but no joy, they have provide nothing. Do I need Windows 10 drivers to get Lightburn connected to the hardware? If not how do I make this connection? Thx!
i never knew about the fire option to test the beam. I always eyeball it but i will give it a shot forsure!! Could you stick tiles underneath rather than setting it up again?
how important is the paint type? you show Rustoleum ultracover and you mention Krylon, and why white? essentially it's just being burnt and the residue fused to the surface, right?
I have used both Rustoleum and Krylon Matte and Gloss White. I believe you are correct that it somehow either creates a hotter burn and fuses the surface of the tile because it is indelible. The strange thing is that it only works for me with white paint.
Nice videos! So to do the ceramic tile etching, after painting the tile, what strength of machine is required? Output strength? Would an Ortur 15w (head power 4000mW-4500mW) or 20w (head power 5000mW-5500mW) work? Thx
No clearcoat. 3dPrintFarm says" It's almost like as the paint burns, the intense heat actually scorches the tile and literally burns the image into it. No amount of solvent, sandpaper, scraper will remove it! It's quite amazing!"
Question he isn't replying to.. Why paint a white tile with white, then remove white paint after. ?confused why you can't just engrave plain tiles as is?
Why exactly do you have to apply white paint to a tile that is already white? Is the laser actually melting the white paint and turning it black and melting it into the tile?
I seem to be getting wave like streaks when I try it..with either white or black spray paint and im.not sure why..I have turned the power down, up, laser faster slower and still these wave like streaks appear on my portraits...
ATTENTION FRIENDS! I missed an important step! UGH! After your tile is lasered, you must clean the tile with Lacquer thinner or Acetone. Use a paint scraper and microfiber cloth to clean up the excess paint!
Have you tried cutting polystyrene (plastic) sheet with that 15w laser? I'm a model railroader and have recently purchased a resin printer and am printing detail parts with it, Working great. Now the club I belong to is working on replicating several buildings specific to the "home town" in the mid to late 1950's. Kits are just not available and scratch building large downtown buildings is very time consuming. I was considering a laser cutter but I need to know if a 15W laser would cut .04-.06 sheet styrene or if I should buy something more powerful. Would make punching out windows a lot easier.
Cool. I was gonna ask about clean up since I seen him do it. I thought maybe you had a different method.
lol, that was the only question I had at the end, if the paint stays or not. Thanks for clarifying.
@@oldiron1223 blue laser diodes are not the best laser to cut styrene , visble laser like those are not to good for white surfaces, Co2 is way better for styrene
@@mauriciozavaleta1223 Might go with a CnC Router at that rate. Should be able to cut holes in .40-.60 styrene with an micro end mill in a router.
Hi From Australia , as a new laser buyer at 73 years old, your explanation was excellent
I just wanted to say I really appreciate this video. I went out and got the materials, and did a bunch of burns today. I finally got my settings dialed in, and the results are incredible! There's a little blurring, but with that much detail, I'm not surprised. I have a Full Spectrum Muse (C02 laser--45w), and my settings were 100 power, 10 speed, 0 blur, 500 dpi. At 90 power and 20 speed, it was still only a gray. At 1000 dpi, the blur was much more pronounced.
And then cleaning it with acetone after took away all those impurities in the paint--the bubbles and fingerprints, and left a nice dark burn. I'm so excited for this!
Try using a DPI around 300. The blurring is caused by overlapping dots.
As a new subscriber I can honestly say that you talked us through that process very well. Many thanks. I am new to the whole laser scene and have learnt so much from this one video. 👍
i love all the videos this guy makes, explains so well step by step and even offers helpful advise when emailed. thank you sir!
Due to your Video on the White and Black paint tile segments I have been able to do some truly amazing tile pieces, much thanks for your training and sharing...
And it works!! I was sceptical about not having the right kind of tile and using regular ennamle spray paint, but wow... It worked.
I have watched all sorts on HOW TO on this subject. This one sorted it out no problem at all. I have done some great tile engraving after watching this video
Thanks
Have you ever used the Rust-Oleum cold galvanized spray paint? It apparently burns darker plus you just wash it off in the single afterwards and its the same effect as this but less chemicals to clean with.
Excellent tutorial!! You ALWAYS provide complete information. I especially like how you showed the steps you took to determine your settings.
Have you tried rustoleum cold galvanized compound instead of paint? Some say it’s quicker (no paint removal) but I’m curious of the quality
I am going to follow this exactly tomorrow night lol..do you know how happy i was, I brought tiles, i brought light burn, i brought da big gimpn plugin for gimp aaaand i brought a ortur laser master 15w. I stuffed up my first few tiles, then i find this video with you! Using exactly the same gear!! So excited. Thankyou mate!! You have yourself another Kiwi subscriber 🤙😁
Hello from Canada, just dropping a note to say thanks. I really enjoy your introduction to burning tiles. keep it up!
Thanks for the video. I'm going to give this a try soon. One thing that caught my eye. At around 10:20, shouldn't the numbers, written on the tile be, .08, .09, ...., instead of .8, .9?
Yes sir! That's correct! My bad... I was in a hurry writing the numbers down!
Great video and instructions took awhile but got it figured out and now can't stop etching tiles. 10 stars and a pat on the back keep up the videos and never learn to must.
Love these vids. Really personable and comprehensive instruction delivery. Nice work man! Keep it up!
Awesome that you give Nicky Norton the credit he is do. I'm in a FB group with him and he is super helpful to everyone.
Which facebook group might that be, if I may ask?
He's in several FB groups. Search for "Laser Engraving and Cutting" Nicky spends a lot of time there. It's a big group as well. 52K members.
@@DirkDooms I reside in Eleksmaker LED Discussion facebook
I'm not in the fb group but can you please thank nicky for me
Does Nicky recommend a brand of tile?
Little mis-information here, When you set pass-through, the Line Interval and DPI settings are completely ignored - it tells you this right there in the tool tip. It burns at whatever DPI you got out of the Da big Gimpin plugin. All that prior testing at 0.11 line interval made no difference what so ever had no bearing on the final outcome.
But one can turn off "Pass Through" to set these parameters if so chosen to do so? Or is it better to let the program (GIMP or Image-R) adjust the outcome?
Thanks for the tutorial!!
Very cool!
My only question is one that might be silly, I'm not sure.
How do you line up where the tile is and where the laser is firing? I've never used a laser burner before and that really puzzled me.
What I will do is take a thin piece of plywood, then laser a 4x4 square on the wood, then I will place my graphic within the square so everything is lined up. LightBurn also allows you you draw a virtual beam around your object at low power so you can line things up! Thanks for asking! Great question!
@@3DPrintFarm Thank you so much! I've been wondering that!
@@jessd3012 another option is place your tile anywhere, hit fire in lightburn to show where the dot lands. Move head to corner of the tile and set the start position to "Current Position" and hit start.
Hold down shift and click the circular frame button on screen, it will fire the laser very low and frame where your creation will be burned.
"zeroing" is what you need to do to calibrate the machine with whatever medium you are working with. Most CNC machines do automatic zeroing for you, however, those machines run in the thousands of dollars.
Hey brother just ran across your channel, by far one of the best how to for diode laser on tile i have seen, really enjoying it. Hope you upload more on it. I have a 40 watt k40 and a NEJE 20 watt like your orture. Have a blessed day.
After you printed on the painted tile, did you wash the tile off with anything. You went from printing on the painting tile to show the finished product. Was just wondering if there was any steps in between???? Thank you.
I was wondering that also, & why did he need to paint it to begin with.
I have a 3018 CBC, so my end print is grey. I assume that is due to the limitations of the laser? Also, I’ve been using different colors under both black and white paint, so paint over paint. The result is amazing, BUT you must protect it at that point since you need to preserve the upper paint level. Try it. Wild and pretty results.
Really Informative Tutorial! Thanks for sharing. I would have loved to see the final process, as in your method of cleanup and sealing the tiles if it's necessary, lol!
Can you tell me where you got the eye image please? It has amazing detail. Thank you in advance. Great video.
Wow! Very impressive. Lovely, educational and informative video
Thank you for the great video! Please make a part 2 with the cleaning up process after lasering and the durability test you mentioned! Thank you!
Not only was this extremely informative, but I absolutely loved your sense of humor! Tile, scraper... scraper tile. That made me laugh so so much! Thank you for that and thank you for the amazing tutorial!!!!
Great video Garret! Nice to see all of the steps in one video.
Have you looked at the Anycubic mega pro I does fdm and it has a laser for it also. The laser does a 8 21/32" X 5 33/64" all on one printer?
I have one in the wings.. doing some testing now! :)
Could you do multiple layers of paint and burn longer on upper layers to reveal paint underneath?
Do you think i can do it with a 2.5w laser? Thank you for the video 👌
Really cool sidestep from the 3D printing! Really easy and explained the process out. Anyone that does hobby work, adding custom engraving of photos or images, this would be a great start and addon to thier skills/business.
Any thoughts or ambitions to step into the world of desktop CNC milling? For small projects in wood/plastics/soft metals. (That's where I'm at, trying to move into desktop cnc, just too indecisive on what machine to get lol)
Great question.. I'm really wanting to dip my toe in the "Shapeoko" waters!!
Thanks Garret, you videos have been helping me a lot with my K40.I Hope You and Your Family Have a Great Christmas.Also Thank you for coming on my Live Stream. Your Awesome my friend.
Have watched this many times but when I try to do it myself, with the exact set-up, except with a newer sw version I get a 9DPI with the .11 line interval. Yes you read that right DPI= 9. Hope you can tell me what I might be doing wrong.
After you are done burning, what's the process from there? Will the image wipe off like it will the black paint on a white tile? Are you sealing the tile after to protect the work?
What is the purpose of the white paint on white tile? I have a glowforge and get awesome results on white tile, but the engrave is clear. I then run black ink into the tile and wipe it off. Then clear coat. I have also done the white tile painted blacks method a few times. Also, Still perfecting my standard white tile settings for use on a black tile engraving the black away. Still dialing in the power settings to get through the black layer better.
There is a chemical reaction of the paint from the heat of the laser that removes the glase and color from the tile. The tile substrate is then etched by the laser. Only paint the the same compounds as the one he used will produce the reaction. If you turn the tile over and laser the back you will see that it will laser very good at LOW power and no paint. I do this to sign each tile that I do.
Thank you. You ever had to replace the module? Just wondering what's the life span
Following...
Wow looks great ! Question if the burn is on the paint why is it so durable ? Your scraper did not bother it so I guess solivent will not bother it once its burned either. Is it that durned paint is super tough ? Or is there something else happening to the tile when the paint burns ? Thanks again. this looks so great I think I will have to give it a go.
Great question! It has something to do with the paint and the focused beam of the laser. It's almost like as the paint burns, the intense heat actually scorches the tile and literally burns the image into it. No amount of solvent, sandpaper, scraper will remove it! It's quite amazing!
@@3DPrintFarm I wonder if the heat of the burning paint does something to the glaze on the tile. It must be a change to the glaze.
Interesting. I would like to try. Can you share us the link to the primer you use? Thanks
You made a very understandable tutorial but will the smaller and portable laser burn just as well?
Great process. Any suggestion why the final product comes out more silver/grey than black?? Image quality is great, just wondering about final color.
Hi just like know do I have put clear Coat on it what done and can do a video on Engraving a Mirror so light go thorw
Hi Garrett, well, I did my first engraving job on cork. Is there a way I and send you 2 pictures of what it should look like versus how it turned out? I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. thanks
How do i change the file back to .jpg after the Da Big Gimpin plug in? it is only letting me save in xcf
I had the same question. That step seemed to be missed at the 20:06 point.
Can i use any gloss white paint? No one sells the brand you used, thanks
Thank you! I believe the latest Ortur laser master 2 has a fixed focus so you wouldn't need to focus the laser correct?
Amazing ! What type of laser do you recommend ? LU2-2 1.6W, LU2-4-SF 5.5W, LU2-4-LF 5.5W, LU2-10A 10W, LU3-20A 20W. What differences would this make, so that I understand correctly.
Good afternoon I am trying to get started doing the Laser engraving. I bought a Atomstack and can't get it to work. Did I waste my money or should I have bought a Ortur Laser master 2. Any input from you or anyone on here can help Thanks
What wattage of laser did you purchase?
@@3DPrintFarm 20 watt
Tonight I Printed off user manual for the Laser Master 2. Am going to try using the info they have for the Atomstack. It goes into detail the Atomstack came with no owners manual
Hey I was wondering if this method would work on marble as well? Thanks for the help I have tons of marbles and I want to recycle them if I can. I loved your techniques it’s so exciting!
May I ask why the white tile needs to be painted white? Great tutorial, Thankyou.
Is the imagine countersunk on the tile after it's been etched?
ive just bought a 20w laser engraver this morning after watching your videos. never , ever ever done laser etching before. sofor the most part i understand your videos, the only part i dont understand is, how does the laser know where the tile is to cut it ? i dont want to set off the cutter and it starts cutting the table underneath? thanks for the inspiration.
If using this as a coaster, what do you recommend putting on the back so it doesn't scratch wood tables etc. And what type of glue (if necessary) to adhere that material to the back of the tile? Thanks so much love the videos
Thin cork sheets are available in hobby shops, use contact cement. Felt is also an alternative, but can be slippery ...
How often are you performing the focus procedure? Every piece of tile? I am looking at the Ortur 15w for photo laser engraving on tile and wood. I am also looking at the ACRO DYI with a JTech 4.2 watt output laser engraver. That comes with a focus height plate to lower the head to. It is quite a bit more in regards to price versus the Ortur. I am curious how much focus adjusting the Ortur requires in general? It is worth noting either one will require dialing in software parameters to get the focus dialed in. I am inquiring about the mechanical side of focusing the laser. Great video
Can you remove the excess paint? Can you/ should you? Thanks ! ❤
Hey 3DPrintFarm... the Laser Master 2 20w is currently nearly identically priced as the Laser Master 1 ... is this a no brainer to buy the 2 or how do you feel about the machines compared side by side?
I'd go for the LM 2 hands down. The gantry is more stable and you can etch much larger items than the LM 1
@@3DPrintFarm thanks! Its on its way
Will this work using a 7W diode?
Can you please tell me why you chose 600 dpi for your resolution? If i understand, you have a line spacing of 0.11 mm. If I am calculating this correctly this would be a DPI of approximately 230 DPI. If you divide an inch (25.4 mm) by the width of your dots 0.11 mm, then you should get a pixel perfect 230 DPI. At 600 DPI your laser program will read approximately every 2.6 lines and average the laser firing. Could you please re-run this exercise with the 230 DPI to see if it will increase the overall quality of the picture?
This is the method I use when using my fiber laser on gloss black tile. My laser outputs a laser spot of 0.042 mm on most gloss black tile so I use 600 DPI and it comes out pixel perfect. Also, does your burning program allow for the input of bitmap images? Using a 1-bit bitmap image instead of a JPEG will give your laser exact on/off timing for each pixel when firing. The plugin you are using appears to create a black and white dithered image which would be what you need to create a 1-bit bitmap for this application. You would just export a bitmap instead of a jpeg.
Sorry I am not saying that what you are doing looks bad, I am just wondering if the technique can be improved by calculating the actual DPI and using an image that represents exactly where you want each pixel to be fired.
Hey, pal! Great video....would you know if this kind of engraving is also possible using the LaserPecker?
I have the same question.
Can you tell me where you got the file for the Eye tile......looks amazing
What are the steps if you do not have Da Big Gimpin Plug-in? I would like to try some tiles on my Neje 20w.
I have done this with 4-1/4 x 4-1/4 tile and worked great so I bought a box of 100 count and a new can of paint and now none of them have worked so my question is Does it have to be a certain type of tile after burn is complete see image on paint but when paint is removed image is gone
Don't use gloss paint. Matte paint will absorb and transfer the energy from the laser far more effectively.
Waited for this, i bought a Eleksmaker A3 after seeing your first video. Great video again, thanks!
I have the same how did it go?
@@daw822000 , with my initial laser it didn't work so well, i bought a 5W laser and now it's working great!
I noticed in lightburn, that the move tab(while burning) theres a tab for increasing the burn. can you increase wile burning is happening?
Awesome! Do you put a clear coat on after the laser burn? Thanks!
Nope. You could if you wanted but the image is not going anywhere! :)
About how long does it take to etch the tile once the laser starts?
1-2 hours
do you think that the air assist when purchasing. I do plan on only working with tile but I am sure I will have other requests. This will be my very first laser purchase :) pretty excited
Just curious why is it necessary to paint the white tiles white? Can’t you just burn them with out painting it?
Hi 3DPrintFarm, question here: so my local Lowe’s doesn’t carry the home accent series of rust-oleum can I substitute that for the rust-oleum advanced formula white gloss and expect to get the same results?
Hello Sir, I have an Ortur Laser Master 2, 20W and I have been trying to do the Norton White tile method in your video, but something is wrong. Using lightburn and following all the prep steps...I cant even get the laser to mark the paint. If I crank power to 100% and slow the speed down to 200 mm/min, it'll work, but something tells me there is a problem here, I shouldn't have to run it this slow right?
Hey great video. Thanks. One little question. How much time is needed to do a 4x4 tile? The print process only.
Great question. Depending on the surface area of the image. So.. suppose the image covered the entire tile.. that would take approximately 1 hour based on 1200mm/min speed
Thanks... great answer 🙂
Hello, I have a boss laser. Do I just adjust the laser head height versus turning dial on laser head?
So what's the difference between Da big gimpin plug in and changing it yourself to grey scale or something else?
I have a NOOB question. When you are focusing the laser at low power .5%-2% using the fire button or even a "shift/frame" procedure. Can you do this WITHOUT laser googles on? Because I am new to laser and want to be safe first. I have been using them but find I cannot see accurately enough to tell if it is focused or if it is centered correctly.
On top of that I have a ATOMSTACK A5 PRO and it has a added Red shield around the laser for added protection. I don't think the Pro can be adjusted but the supply a roughly 1/8 spacer to use between the surface and the shield. Seems to be fairly clean edges when engraving on black card stock. But feel it could be tweaked abit still.
Going to build a enclosure next so I can get the stink out of the shop when burning paints off.
Thank you for a great tutorial. I have watched it several times and have learned a great deal. Having followed your instructions carefully, I get some different results. I am using a laser just like yours. My engravings have improved as I followed your instructions on focusing the laser, but I never get the dark burns that your video shows. I have changed power, dithering and speed settings and only get grey results. Any suggestions you might have would be much appreciated.
I am likewise having same issues. Just light grey not dark.
Have you tried with the Ortur 20W? Would it be the same results as the beam is a bit longer.
I think the laser is the same 5w laser. The 20w is how much the machine input is. It's a tricky way to say it's a 20w laser. Lol
It's a bit of a misnomer. The 15w is more of a 4.5w output.. The 20w is more like 5w. The 7w version is more like 2.5w laser output. Any of the above will give you good results if the beam is focused. The larger the output, the wider the beam also.
So after watching this I am thinking of ordering the V2. Are you saying that the 20w isn’t necessarily better than the 15w because the beam is wider? Does that make it less precise? Which model do you recommend I purchase? I was ready to spend the few extra $ for the 20w.
Also for the focus process, does that apply to the smaller machine you used in the green and black hulk video prior? Thanks again. Great video.
Do you spray a sealer on the tile after it’s engraved .
Will the 7 watt be enough to do the Norton method on both the small and large.
I realize the difference being small verses large.
Thank you
Purchased a 15W laser and the housing is larger than the sleeve any ideas on what to do and does the motherboard need to be replace when going from a 5W to 15W ?
I have a 50 watt c02 laser that I am trying to setup a etching grid for painted tiles what power and speed do you suggest to start off with.
Great tutorial! If i have a 5W laser, will this process still work or is my laser too weak? I checked your machine's link and those had a higher W rating. Thanks!
Are there any consumer-quality laser cutters available that can actually CUT ceramic tile?
If not, is there another technology that can be used to do this?
Thanks!
Hi there, I am trying the white tile Burn and have come across an issue. I did a power test from 15% to 85% with my Ortur Laser Master 2 20w and found the optimum speed was 1200mm and power of 80%. I am using the rust oleum gloss white and when I used an imported design at my specifications it is actually burning through the paint and the glaze. Have you come across this before?
does this technique also work on black tiles as well
Ordered my first Ortur Laser 15w. Looking forward to making some cool custom art tiles.
thank you for these videos. they are very helpful. I am new to the laser engraving/cutting world. I have the 20w Ortur Master 2. Please keep them coming.
My 5w laser just stopped burning, beam is there but nothing, even set at 100% power. Any suggestions.
I was waiting for that video! ;) Great video. You use the acetone to remove the remaining white paint?
Yes that is correct!! I missed a step!! UGH!! I’
Question that I've seen a few times in comments.. Why paint a white tile with white, engrave tile, then remove the white paint? Will this process work without painting, and removing paint steps?
One question. I used the rust-oleum universal all in one gloss white paint . parameters are the same how ever i am using the 20 watt laser master 2 and my tiles are not coming out dark, kind of a greyish tone .. how can i get it darker i did burn at 1200mm/mn and 100 power...
Use Matte Primer+Paint (Krylon fusion) Matte absorbs and transfers the energy much better.
Gloss is reflective, thus reflects away light energy from the laser.
Hi, great channel! I just got an Ortur master 2 - 20W Laser, I have contacted Ortur for the drivers for Lightburn...but no joy, they have provide nothing. Do I need Windows 10 drivers to get Lightburn connected to the hardware? If not how do I make this connection? Thx!
is the power high enough to break the surface of the glaze on the tile ?
i never knew about the fire option to test the beam. I always eyeball it but i will give it a shot forsure!! Could you stick tiles underneath rather than setting it up again?
how important is the paint type? you show Rustoleum ultracover and you mention Krylon, and why white? essentially it's just being burnt and the residue fused to the surface, right?
I have used both Rustoleum and Krylon Matte and Gloss White. I believe you are correct that it somehow either creates a hotter burn and fuses the surface of the tile because it is indelible. The strange thing is that it only works for me with white paint.
Nice videos! So to do the ceramic tile etching, after painting the tile, what strength of machine is required? Output strength? Would an Ortur 15w (head power 4000mW-4500mW) or 20w (head power 5000mW-5500mW) work? Thx
Was there any additional steps needed, such as a clear coat to ensure the scratch proof condition of the completed print?
I'm just curious, why you use the plugin rather than just do the halftone with Lightburn?
Do you clear coat the tile afterwards? Seems like the paint would get damaged from scratching eventually.
John Clark You remove the white paint that is left and the image is engraved directly on the tile. The image and the tile become one.
No clearcoat. 3dPrintFarm says" It's almost like as the paint burns, the intense heat actually scorches the tile and literally burns the image into it. No amount of solvent, sandpaper, scraper will remove it! It's quite amazing!"
Question he isn't replying to.. Why paint a white tile with white, then remove white paint after. ?confused why you can't just engrave plain tiles as is?
Why exactly do you have to apply white paint to a tile that is already white? Is the laser actually melting the white paint and turning it black and melting it into the tile?
Good question. I would like to know. Why white paint on a white tile?
I'm confused. When you paint the tile with white paint, why doesn't it scrape off? Are you actually burning into the tile surface?
I seem to be getting wave like streaks when I try it..with either white or black spray paint and im.not sure why..I have turned the power down, up, laser faster slower and still these wave like streaks appear on my portraits...