Geothermal dig and loop field installation
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2022
- Geothermal dig and loop field installation - I use my Kubota KX080 excavator to move 400 yards of dirt so we could install a geothermal loop trench field. I also had my Bobcat T66 on site to help move material. This is a 4 ton system so there's four slinky coils going in. The coils go on a bed of stone dust and a layer of stone dust also covers the coils. I pressure test and bubble test all the fusion joints. Early on one of the trench walls collapsed, luckily it wasn't that bad and only happened once.
Хобби
1. It is best to keep the system under high test pressure all the time you are doing the backfill. Having someone monitor the readings in case you disrupt the piping with your heavy machinery. This is also good long-term, reducing tension between piping and soil under normal load.
2. The sandbed &|or rock dust does need compacting. If your time is limited, just keep pouring water over it as you are proceeding. Otherwise you will be getting very high mechanical tensions in the points where the coils overlap as the soil will be contracting by itself later on.
| IMHO and AFAIK disclaimers go here |
Great job and very sensible suggestions here clearly from someone who has done these projects. Its nice to see constructive suggestions to improve as everyone can learn.
We use the same kind of pipe in plumbing. Pipe bursting sewer lines. We run a heavy cable up the sewer from down by the city tap. And hook that to the cutter head that then has a section off pipe attached to it. We had a waffle looking heater. We put in between the two pieces of pipe mounted in a jig. Then move the pipe onto the heater. As the pipe ends melt to about a quarter inch bead. We move them away and pull the heater out. Then move the pipe ends together in the jig and mash the melted ends in together. After joining the first section each section afterwards. There’s another tool to reach in and carve away the inside bead. We’ve done this underneath structures built over the sewer and just because the customer didn’t want their manicured lawn torn up for the season.
You did so much work! Loved watching the whole process. Thank you for your hard work Sean. You rock. Great job!
great vid - very informative!
that 20 minutes flew by :D
Interesting. Very different from the system we use here in Sweden. We dig long trenches, about 1.5meters wide (5 feet) and at least 400 meters long (1300feet), often 800 meters. And the tubing is put down in straight lines at either side of the trench (forward one side, return one side). One loop in one thrench with a 180 degree turn a the end of the trench. Thicker PEM tubes are used, 40mm i think. The tubings are never crossed or allowed to go closer than 1m apart without insulating them. Also
that seems extremely inefficient. But it's Europe..nothing is efficient due to guvment regulations.
Sounds like counter current heat exchange, the most efficient. Though I'd be curious just how much more efficient, of it's worth the extra effort
@@kevincorapi137 efficiency would be dependent on the heat transfer coefficient of the different tube materials, soil type, ground temp, moisture content etc....
Not really, in Norway and Sweden we drill geothermical wells.
@@OddEdland Wells are probably the most common in Finland too, but fields are used also.
Very enjoyable to see a professional in action. Great work!
Thank you
It would be nice to know what BTU amount those 4 sets of coils produce, heat or cold or both and a quick spiel on the pump unit and exchanger to get an idea how much that produces... you know like you said you were told on text temp just a quick run down ...
48k btu
@@stevensghost945 Ty
rly nice video, all steps covered thoroughly with excellent footage. bravo!
Thank You! I really appreciate it!
You did nice work there 👊
Great work and great video!
Thank you
We are getting ready to put in our system. After watching this, glad we are doing it ourselves. The loops are not supposed to over lap and each run is supposed to be two feet apart because they need to transfer their temperatures to the soil efficiently. Also, they should be in a sandy loam bed if there is a lot of rock not white sand. This is not going to be a very efficient system.
This is how the geothermal engineer designed the field. The system is currently running at optimal performance and maintained consistent temperatures throughout the winter. So I would say it was a successful install!
The video's description suggests that the "white sand" is actually rock dust, i.e cushed rocks, and probably very similar material to the rocks that were pulled out by the excavator. I think this is a good medium as it will have lots of surface area and only a bit of space between the granuals; I think it is quite close to a sandy loam soil. I think the runs could have been better spread out, but there is a lot of overlap along the slinky anyway, so it's not an efficient system anyway, but it does minimise the amount of soil that has to be moved.
Every site has its own engineering issues and every soil has its thermal properties. If you need more contact there is nothing wrong with coiling, it means more contact and more length for a given area. Remember that at 5 feet deep the soil is pretty stable thermally speaking.
Here in FL I would have white sugar sand. Almost no heat retention or transfer really. The only good part, during the hottest part of the year the sand is usually WET, and by that I mean inside the water table. This actually would make geo a great option most years.
There are different kinds of thermal loops. There’s ones where they just run 4-6” tubing in a single loop, and the run is like a quarter mile long. Do you want to tear up trees for geo? I don’t. Looks to me like they used the space they had available.
Someone else said this system is 48,000 BTUs which is enough for a 2400 sq ft house, and that house is closer to 1400. So I’m sure the engineer knew what they were doing.
@@tlangdon12what's the purpose of it all
Awesome content! Thank you for this video!
Thank you 👍
Isn't there some kind of system with colored smoke or so? Wouldn't that be easier to spot and way less time consuming?
My question is like tornados....what pipe is used . Please write full specifications
Nice thinking about tackling this ourselves
As an hvac tech myself, geo isn’t worth the cost unless you live somewhere extremely hot or extremely cold. An inverter heat pump is cheaper with less hassle and works well in most climates that stay between 15-110 degrees That house likely won’t get the most of that geo unless it’s been spray foamed. Now if you live somewhere with regular temps under freezing then probably not too bad. I’m not sure where this is
Kind of looks like western PA or Tennessee to me. One is consistently cold in winter one gets the cold but may not be immersed.
My mother in law has an air heat pump. I don't know what her energy bills are, but I do know that when it gets cold enough (below 25F, let's say), there's a limit to how warm she can make things. One time, it was 5F outside and we all brought our home heaters to help heat her place up, because it wouldn't get above 58F.
The colder it gets, the less efficient air heat pump work, as they continue to try and suck hot air out of the cold. Finally, air heat pumps (I think) only work through ducting, su if you're retrofitting a solution to an existing baseboard heating system, for example, an air forced heat pump don't be right for you.
My oil boiler just died, so I'm trying to figure out what to replace it with. I wouldn't want to rely just on
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 higher efficiency heat pumps can work in colder conditions. Newer hyper heat pumps can work down into the Fahrenheit negatives. Geo is good for extreme cold that stays less than 0 often but generally ends up costing more than just buying a 24 seer greenspeed carrier or a mini split system. Really depends on your climate. Geo would also be good for those areas where the temps are staying up around 120 regularly
The plate on the Tesla said New Jersey.
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 her heat pump should have auxiliary heating which just uses electric to heat if it gets too low. heat pump is always worth it in the long run and geothermal too.
if you're in a cold climate you obviously want a good heat pump for cold climates.. there are many different ones
hers sounds like it's for texas, lmao
From your experience is there a best way to receive training for the pipe laying, fusion, and testing?
There is a booklet with tables that allow you to calculate the dia, and the pitch of the coils and exactly how many feet of pipe a certain dia, pitch = how many feet of pipe it consumes so as to allow you to have 30 feet of single pipe at each end to have enough pipe at the end to make it to your header without any splices.
What is the building size? What is the liquid capacity of the system?
Vary naise project your back filing time thes weight collar material is sand or salt ?
Curious, to me it seems like it would’ve been nice to compact that sand a little bit first. And the rest of the dirt for that matter. I know from recent experience when I didn’t compact the sand it dropped in some places by 25-40% after one or two rains.
If youre doing it for yourself or youre paid by the hour, absolutely!
@@davidbelanger2681 I guess you’re not aware there’s a whole world of people out there that don’t mind paying quite a bit more for higher quality work, and the extra attention to detail. Not everybody lives in a $200,000 bungalow in the suburbs of Omaha.
a good way to add free heat to this is solar to electric water heater
Do you have a video showing the internal parts of the system and it in operation?
No sorry, I only handled the outside portion of the job. The HVAC tech did all the internal work.
Great job with that one 👏 👍
Thank you
I like the idea of geothermal but have some concerns, with the looping pipeline being crushed against its self over time as the soil compacts. Can you tell me why that wouldn't happen.
The piping full of water/glycol can handle the pressure of properly compacted soil no problem. Remember the water is incapable of being compressed so it gives the pipe tons of strength.
Geothermal has been around for decades..They don't use garden hose! They usepoly pipe. 200 psi poly pipe is some seriously tough stuff.
@@machaf ok thank you.
how many square feet is this system cooling?
No bubbles, no troubles 👍👍
I like that
Thanks for the cool video. Just curious, how could you detect and fix a leak? Maybe that's unlikely so it isn't an issue?
HDPE pipe fusion joints are 99.999% reliable, and last 100+ years.
@@davealmighty9638 Good to know. Thanks!
Hvac tech here. If it ever leaks you have to dig it up to fix but most times it’s a small leak and we would add an autofill system. So it just refills the system on its own as it leaks down. Really depends on the leak
@@Rgrinkleson That makes a lot of sense to me. Thanks for the idea!
Geo thermal coils? Is that, like, for a heat pump? I’ve seen you bury the slinkys before. I’m just unfamiliar with it.
Will run water int the pipe or will be other liquid?
Case being water, how much temperature will have the water at beginning of the pipe and how much will have when return the water back to the house +-?
The operating fluid would normally a water/glycol (anti-freeze) mixture. Temperature returning to the house will be the temperature of the soil at the depth of the trench, which will depend on location, but will probably be 50F (10C) or thereabouts in Pennsylvania. I've no idea how cold the water coming from the house will be. This will depend on the characteristics of the heatpump, but I'd expect it to be a few degrees above freezing.
Nice work! How many hours would you say you put into this?
Same here - curious as to how many hours of labor went into the trench work - don't leave us in the dark!
Thank you, I was on site for 7 days. About 8 hours each day
Looks like about 4 Runs? So what happens when that poly pipe springs a leak (defective pipe/ mole chewing it/backfill rock) ? Will you be able to tell on which run it's happening? Would it be a good idea to run a spare just incase that happens? I think I would have used something like the FlipScreen to screen the backfill dirt down to 1" and then put the rock about the middle layer, and then leave the last 1' for topsoil grass seed bed.
The pitch is very small on those coils! Reduces the conductivity.
Still I highly reccomend this type of system.
Great video. How much did it cost? The rocks d the seem too bad…..you should see what an old lava flow does to excavation!
Thank you, I can only imagine. I believe the whole thing cost 50-60k. There is also a major tax credit for these systems. Thanks for watching
Sir what is the white material before the the pipe installation?
Stone dust
How many M2 is the property please
How are you getting that steady high overhead shot of the whole scene? I’m guessing camera with fisheye mounted in a tree?
It was a drone, Thanks for watching
hello,
what is the size of the pipe?
Great video! is sand or crushed rock necessary or if you are careful could you just use the same dirt? also is there a difference between sand and crushed rock?
So far i know, to spread sand underneath and on top of the pipeline was not a good idea.
Sand isn't such a good hit conductor, at least not like the soil. He may loose some efficiency right there.
@@SpiderF27 Did you read already about sand battery? It can retain the heat... But I don't know if is good for that stituation!
@@universoALC I know about sand battery but that is totally different system. Sand preserve the heat. I this case the sand will act like a insulator and the pipes and keep the heat away ....
sand is not a good idea.
The entire idea is to MOVE as much heat from the ground INTO the coils during winter, and REMOVE as much heat from the coils in the summer INTO the ground as possible. The less resistance to heat movement the better. That said, it might be good to have a layer of insulating soil well above the installed system to protect from cold air in the winter, warm sun in the summer.@@universoALC
Im not certain that sandy rock was the best selection of material for bedding of the geothermal pipes. As far as I can gather, it will heat up fast and also lose heat fast which is the exact opposite of what a geothermal system needs. Sandy soil is okay, but pure sand is not so good. It tends to have the moisture driven out quickly in the summer season, reducing the thermal transfer rate. Likewise the thermal coupling material is critical. Moist soil is also better than dry. It retains heat for longer, loses it slowly and provides a more consistent environment for the geothermal system.
*SHOULD* be 3 feet, per standards, but if I wasn't there when the lines were buried, I am not going to take it on faith.
All of the work done so that one can get the air cooled or warmed as if one's home was built underground - I would rather have the house built
underground to start with: fewer moving parts, less mechanical failure. 😊 You got some nice boulders out of there!
I'm new to this but I'm thinking this is a closed loop system? I didn't see any natural water and I don't know if open needs as much tubing. Also what state is this in? Thanks for sharing!
It's a closed loop system, in northern NJ . Thanks for watching
How much did ya charge for this? and how many hours we talking?
Who told you to do them like that? Supposed to be like 3 feet of solid dirt in between the pipes minimum. Hoping it works ok for ya.
You'd have to go so deep where I live.. In the summer my cold water comes out of the faucet hotter than my hot water. I looked it up once and I think even 10ft down it is still like 80 degrees. So I'm assuming you'd have to bury the coils at least 15ft down to be effective.
Ironically, we have the opposite problem! Above 6' under ground is the frost line, and that's no joke here. Crazy yours comes out so hot! What's the point of a water heater with that? Do you have a heat pump to cool your water?
@@MrXzylonx It's only like that in the summer. For the rest of the year the water comes out relatively cool. But when it's 118 outside with no cloud cover, the ground gets pretty hot. The surface temperature can be 150-180+ degrees.
And no, we have nothing to cool the water. The best we can do is just let it run long enough to empty the hottest water out of the lines until it comes out lukewarm, like 100 degrees or so.
@@KurNorock Wow! I didn't realize that was even possible, but it does make sense with the surface temp being so high. Where do you live?
@@warpedfusion Arizona.
Why are you using stone dust and not sand?
The ground appears to be to dry to put Loops into. You're not going to have good heat transfer and the customer is probably going to have to water the loop areas to get his system to work. The system is at a high risk of having a lot of problems and is going to be running on backup Hefe lot
Why zip tie loops together?
I have had a system that has been trouble free for twenty five years
Most other systems in my area have been changed to gas
It is said that its to cold for geothermal
When mine was put in , the soil was judged to be to sandy for a geo field like this so instead we went with 7 vertical holes , 250 feet deep . The bottom 200 feet are in a live underground stream
Companies that used to install geo say that the ground temp is to cold for it to work here , but i think its because they used a geo field like this , at a 6 foot depth and our frost line is 15 feet
I belive the combination of vertical holes and the underground water are why mine works
Were systems really put in at 6' with 15' front line depth??!
@@slaveofjesus3878 that is what the company who did mine said they were planning , untill I told them it was all solid rock at the six foot depth. I have to assume they did others at the six foot depth. But six months after they did mine they closed their company, maybe poor installs were the reason for that
Normally, I would strip the whole sit of trip soil 100mm ( 3 inches ) and pile , then at end of the job spread over finished job , looks much better and will have grass in no time
I thought about that but I was running out of places to put the dirt
@@srmcontracting a easy way to do this in future is just strip the soil and push the the edge of work site and make like a 4 foot top soil wall all the way around job , the all you soil will sit against it . Over all a good job . I live in Australia . Can you please explain why this is done ? Is this normally something you would use in areas that snow or ?
What’s the white « sand » you putted in?
Stone dust
Can you put the coils under the foundation of the house, that is if you have not built the house itself yet?
I don't think that is possible because to build the foundations of the house you need undisturbed soil. Soil that has been removed and then replaced is very difficult to get recompacted to the strength it was before it was disturbed.
When you do your septic field just dig two three feet deeper and put coils down there
Yes but it's not ideal
You’d need reallllllly wide footings
Yes, We are double our loop system under slab. It more effort to get good compaction for a structure. It's doable. Going below a leach field is not a bad idea.
I'm a newby to large property ownership. I have no idea what you're doing and why, but I'll watch anyway. Who knows? I might want to do this someday.
Fun project. It's cool to do something new like that. Did you ever think as a 5 year old that you'd be doing this kind of work? It's amazing how the direction of life leads us here to this point, with these sets of experiences...
Yes it was and your right, I never thought that I would have gotten into something like this. When I was 5 I wanted to be a garbage man lol. I thought it was so cool they got to ride on the back of the truck.
@@srmcontracting yeah, me too. You get to push the button and activate the hydronic and crush the trash. It's was always fun to watch the garbage men crush couches and TV sets. My brothers would run out side all excited just to watch the action.
@@srmcontractingI wanted to be a garbage man too… that truck that could lift and empty our neighborhood dumpster was too cool! Where did you learn all of this stuff, some geothermal class or school?
I wonder the history of those boulders.
Probably old as the hills!😂
Moraine from sheet ice?
Might want to think about stepping/ grading the excavation walls. Especially after a collapse and looking at that soil. Great way to bury yourself!
it isn't even deep..
This is true, this technique to prevent cave-ins is called soil benching. In Denver for instance you can't dig deeper than 5 feet without benching. All that load above the cut is just more weight than the soil's shear can handle. Always think of soil shear as a 45 degree plane.
What is the purpose of the stone dust?
The more contact the pipe had the better the heat transfer will be.
The boulders would be perfect for landscaping.
Where is this?
Would've been nice if the dump could've tailgated that trench.
It works but be ready to have your furnace have a major repair after 10 years and change your hot water tank ….
😮 How was results please let us know
Results were great! Everything is working as expected
Where is it? What kind of weather do you get?
NJ, it can be 100 in the summer and 10 in the winter
What kind of pipe is in ground??????????
It's HDPE, I believe it has a 50 year warranty.
I have 2000ft of loop at 4ft deep. In the hot summer months, the loop fields can't keep up. Gets the ground too hot
Sounds like for your climate and soil type you needed both a deeper trench and more loop. Engineering the system for your specific needs has struck me as potential for this being a waste of time and resources or an exquisite use of nature to positively impact the pocket book and the quality of life.
@@levitheonlylevi20474ft isn’t deep enough u neeeded probably 8ft most time it’s 6ft but I live in Alabama and work for road dpt and in summer time when we dig for sand and gravel sometimes at 6ft ground dirt is dry powder but once hit 8ft and deeper the hole gets a lot cooler and damp. I believe if I was doing one of these systems 8ft deep be the least and I personally be 10ft deep to make sure it’s 100% efficiency as possible. Think about it if u we’re just barely enough wouldn’t take long for the area around the tubing to not be working well.
That’s a lot of work, equipment time, and fuel. That’s why these systems cost a lot up front. Definitely the way to go to save energy/money long term.
I believe the whole thing cost 50-60k. There is also a major tax credit for these systems. Thanks for watching
Cool watching you work. Hopefully you live near a blue area and can cash in on "muh climate change".
@@srmcontracting How much of that 50-60k is excavation/laying the field? I believe the tax credit takes 30% off the total.
So you wouldn't have a bill as big for electricity after, but how many years does it take to pay off the loan for this work?
Is that for heating or cooling ?
It works for both. I'm not an HVAC guy but my uncle is. He explained, since the ground temp doesn't fluctuate like the outside air. It lets the condensing units operate much more efficiently.
@@srmcontracting thanks
How deep did you go?
The field design was 6 ft deep. Thanks for watching
So this is a closed loop system?
Yes
I’m no expert, but was using sand a good idea?
That's how it was designed by the geo-tech engineer. They run heat transfer rates based on the type of material surrounding the tubing.
@@srmcontracting amazing video and thank you for the info.
What is the price tag ?
What was the largest expense for this system?
Small caliver make too much resistance, for that, the air flow is very low . The cool air comeout is decreased.
1) GLYCO (?) or water ? 2) Why a backhoe as opposed to a Front Loader ? I went in a cave in the early '60s and the guide said "It's Always 57 degrees in here". A light went on Right then and there ! I never forgot that statement and I never stopped thinking about THIS type of thing. A great way to screw the power companies ! A better way to Conserve !! Great Video !
Ball park figure what is the price range on this Job?
I think the whole system was around 50k.
Первый раз вижу такой песок, похоже на отходы камнедробилки (каменоломни)
good idea, vs 200$ plus a month for 35 years or more. And all of the ac/heat units an maintenance u paid over 35 years. Goodman or carrier units, etc,, you bought.
My understanding is that each loop must be a minimum of 10' from another loop, so it looks like you mike have an issue.
Nice scar...
I did this for my home in fl
What did your system consist of (trench depth, loop length, open or closed loop, etc...) and how do you like/dislike it?
@@levitheonlylevi2047
3000' of 1" hdpe in a 36" pitch slinky
(6 500' branches) 7' deep for a 1900 sqft ICF home we keep it at 69F year round and in summer loop temp gets up to 100*F I was honestly hoping for a lower loop temperature, but My Land is high and dry sand For the amount of Btu's. I move to Keep the house as cold as I do I probably should have gone with an even bigger loop field. I have a 3 ton climate master 2 stage. If I could do it again. I would have moved the loop field down The Hill where the sand is a little wetter.
@@SolarTechFL good into, appreciate the pointers. I'm up in the Inland PNW so temp is a little more moderate here. We might see 100° for a week or two in the summer time and might see sub zero temps for a week or two in the winter. I'm considering geothermal just as a safety net/consistent relative indoor temp for my 5000 sqft shop and 600 sqft home. I'm a redneck so trying to gather some pointers on a completely built myself without too much fancy or expensive doo dads... basic is my hope so long as it can be made effective=time and money invested.
Nice to do this. No actual pricey compressor-type heat pump needed. Just circulating loop pump through car radiator with breezebox pushing/pulling room air through! CHEAP!! Then can divert heated ground loop to hot water heater heat exchanger coils to cut THAT bill!//Steve B.
Thats what i had in mind also
@@stephenbaker3680
I would have insisted that those rocks were removed and the yard at least be seeded and straw put down.
I dont understand why backfill with sand .. The worst media possible for geothermal performance.
if it's wet it's just as good as anything else... but yeah you have a point.
Putting the coils that close together isn't good either.
@@number40Fan this is a slinky loops geothermal system and is valid.
@@zaaz1471 Everything I've read is that there is supposed to be some space between the loops to keep one area from being saturated.
@@number40Fan saturated by what? It's a heat exchanger. The more surface area you can get in one area the more efficient it will be. Any temperature differential will be disbursed in the ground. The only concerns here would be a pump strong enough to circulate the fluid and the tubes chaffing and creating a leak.
Ok
Do you have a CDL? Be interested to see your setup
I have witnessed a highly engineered, multi well system fail miserably and never get close to design temperature difference. Be sure to treat the water in the loop.
I buried 12 inch diameter corrugate at 100 ft and 8 ft deep. Useing only air to regulate temp. Why would you do so much extra junk and risk a water leak? Seems stupid.
I dont understand how these work. Does it heat the water instead of a water heater? What about cold days? Do you get snow and freezing?
Im in the desert (Phoenix) and so its over 110 for 4 months of the year and over 115 for 2nmontjs and winter our overnight lows can get to 30ish but daytime is 60ish.
And our ground is rock and granite, so no dirt like you have there, lol
@ 00:41 ohhhhh ok.... you said "dig"
I think that's a heat pump,not geothermal :-)
its a ground source heat pump, also known as a geothermal system
Congratulations, you've just created a system that will create permafrost in the ground. The customers electricity bill will skyrocket as the compressor will be working so hard to create the heat required to warm the house. The pipes should be straight runs down the sides of a 4ft trench, and the trenches should be at least 6ft apart. Otherwise you're extracting too much heat from the ground and the ground will freeze.
The depth was only 6 feet. It doesn’t get THAT cold where he built this at. The engineer that designed it knows better. Our frost line is 3 feet, but outside of maybe 2-3 weeks a year, 3-8 inches you’re down to unfrozen ground. At 6 feet that’s still 36 inches of insulation at worst, (I would dig my system at 10 because I can, but 🤷🏻♂️) and 69 (nice) inches at best. Not to mention the crushed stone will create the frost from happening.
This is the correct way to do loops when you have restricted land though. If you have 200 acres, run the 200 acres in straight lines. If you have one acre, you run it like this.
@M21assult it's not about how deep or how cold the ground gets naturally. It's about how much energy you are removing from the ground. Think about a household freezer (ice box) if you had fewer loops of pipe in there, it wouldn't freeze, but it would still get cold because energy is still being transferred to outside the appliance. Add more loops of pipe in there and the food would freeze faster as more energy can be removed because there is more surface area of piping to remove it within the freezer space. It's the same principle in the ground. Remove too much energy from too small a space and the ground WILL freeze. Small plots of land need boreholes to go down vertically. People don't do this though because it is expensive. In Sweden they run the system in reverse in the summer to put the energy back into the ground ready for winter, they treat the ground like a battery.
Shocked you guys don’t fill different loops with colored water and pressure to spot any potential leaks
The coils were pressure tested and all joints sprayed with bubble solution.
@@srmcontracting i understand every manufacturer has their own methods but I would darn surely think a leak could be found a lot easier if the system had water in it, that’s how we used to test vacuum trucks.
I'm shocked you can type
Should’ve just drilled a geothermal well.
Those loops are a non sense .. waste of material and need of a more powerfull pump.... Better to run multiple "straight" tubes, tu reduce overlapping.
Sure, if you want to dig a mile long trench
Not necessarily. Depends on pipe sizing & desired gpm for the system design. This is actually a very valid way to condense necessary trench size provided the loops aren’t so tights as to pinch the pipe.
Improve equipment operating skills and this job goes much faster.
Dumping the soil close to the edge - Loads the Trench Wall and can cause a Collapse.
The Soil should be dumped as far away the Trench as it is Deep
TRENCH COLLAPSES CAN BE AND HAVE BEEN FATAL - MANY DEATHS BEING LITERALLY BURIED ALIVE !!- NEVER GO DOWN A TRENCH WITHOUT TRENCH SUPPORT.
Dont wanna sound like a know it all !- Just Passing on Experience and knowledge and and maybe save a loved ones life !!!
Installation is not the main moto😂
Working is the main moto
Show us that geothermal is working😂
This is a piss poor way of doing this and it is inefficient has hell. It will never work right.
Your slinky loop does not meet my standard, along with tthe lengths are to long.
If the pipe is rated for 160 PSI and so are the couplings. Then why not test at a bare minimum of 100 PSI? Or just the 160 PSI for that matter?
If the inspector wants less, then by all means go out of your way to make your customer happy that the pipes were tested at max rating, not inspector rating.
I'm not the HVAC tech but "I think" it would just be over kill to do 160. The system itself operates under 10 psi so us testing at 60 is already well beyond what it will ever see. Also pushing things to their max limit seems sketchy to me anyway. Thanks for watching
Stop confusing geothermal and ground based heat sources. What you are doing is not geothermal, but ground source based heat source.
Geothermal means tapping the heat radiating from the earth core and for that you have to go deep. At least 400 m where you find geothermal near the surface a couple of 1000 m in other areas.
I've never heard of that definition of geothermal before. This is what 99% of people are talking about when they say geothermal
@@christopherbowman2435 That does not mean that they are right. Geothermal sounds sexy, ground based I assume does not.
Definition by Miriam Webster: "geothermal, relating to, or utilizing the heat of the earth's interior".
Ground based is related to the constant temperature shallow in the ground.
Way overkill.
What a waste of pipe!