This is a really GREAT video. I just finished the replacement on my 2015 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L. I ordered the part online from Rock Auto, but the manufacturer had given them the wrong information saying the the YH1769 part was for a 2017-2019 Explorer, so I got the wrong part first. I found it easier to mark the new YH1769 so I could align it to the same orientation as the bad part, then connect it and let it rotate to the correct position, and disconnect it. If you don’t disconnect it, it continues to rotate) With that done, I placed it in place, and put in the screws, top front first, bottom next and then found it easier to use the 90 degree tool from the bottom, with help from my son to line it up and presto, we were done. Oh I used Tick-Tac in the socket to hold the screws in place, which worked really great too. Replaced everything and it works fine.
This is my first and probably my last Ford vehicle. Four recalls, a dead alternator at 67000 miles and all along a failed vent actuator. I'm ready to call Ford and ask what's next. Thank you Good Samaritan for helping out in this otherwise messed up job.
My 2015 explorer just hit 305k miles with original engine and trans. Just had this issue with the actuator and I am blown away to hear you upset with yours. Hope it goes better!
I've had the same issues minus the dead alternator. I've enjoyed the vehicle for it's size and comfort but the issues I've had with it make me never want another one.
Great video. I did this repair Oct. 2023. My actuator was stuck and only allowed air via the middle vents. Since it wouldn't blow air at the defroster, this created an unsafe driving situation resolved with open windows (not a warm solution). In winter, no warm air at the feet is a problem. Replacing the actuator solved all problems. It is a pain to get actuator off and also put the 3 screws back to hold the new one in place. I taped the top of the screw to the socket to keep it in place as I searched for the hole to screw it in. Still time consuming but I didn't have to worry about dropped screw or socket. Tip: prior to setting actuator in place, I plugged it into the connector, started the engine (I didn't need to reconnect the instrument cluster, I have a 2016 Explorer) and then tested the 3 vent direction options. I could see the shaft turn to accommodate the chosen setting but since the rotator shaft wasn't inserted into the receiving hole this didn't affect the air flow. After this, I attached the actuator. Tested again before putting everything back together, and all worked perfectly and air flow going where it was supposed to go. Again, I didn't have to connect the instrument cluster to test it, but if that was needed it is super simple to just plug it in without screwing it pack in place before starting the engine and doing the test. Tip: I got the same Motorcraft part YH-1769 at Amazon. Why pay about $80 at dealership when Amazon sells exact same part for under $28. At dealership I was told replacement of part was listed as a 3-hour job and total cost over $800. I bought a flex shaft 90° extension Amazon $16 (essential) and did the job myself. The only really bad part is getting the one back top screw out as you explain but patience needed for all 3 screws. With my luck, that part of the job took 90 minutes. Altogether, my limited basic skills got the job done in less than 2 1/2 hours, including time to double check with your video and being very careful. FYI: My 2016 Explorer also has Motorcraft part Motorcraft part YH-1779 part that is similar to Motorcraft part YH-1769 except it has a white plastic cover and is installed below YH-1769. YH-1779 is much easier to access and I bought one on Amazon in case both were needed. I didn't open that part bag and since it was not needed, I returned it to Amazon for full refund. You may not have that part for your vehicle, but if you do, that actuator might be a source of problems. Thanks. You saved people lots of money!!!
This guy deserves a medal for going back and capturing all this (for us) after he was finished with the replacement. I'm certainly glad he did. Ford deserves to have their asses kicked for 1) installing such cheap actuators in the first place, and 2) requiring a dashboard dismantle to replace them. Reminds me of replacing a heater blower fan on my old Pontiac. Had to cut a hole through the wheel-well to get at it. Later I asked the dealer mechanic how he would have done it. Same way. No wonder most people have switched to Japanese or Korean cars.
Just in case anyone doesn't have a 5/16 socket... That 5/16 socket is the same as an 8mm socket, that vehicle doesn't actually use any SAE bolt head sizes on it, they are metric, so it's technically an 8mm, but a 5/16 fits the same so either can be used. Great video man, thanks for posting it! Side note, if anyone watching doesn't have a 7mm, a 9/32 is the same.. nothing is the same as a 10 though, you'll need a 10
3 years later and this video is still putting smiles on faces. Well done man. And THANK YOU and if all 600+ commentors completed this themselves, you've saved us likely a million or two😊
This is the BEST video on changing this part out. If I could contact this guy I would buy him a case of beer! I couldn't have done this job without this video.
Thanks for taking the time to document this. I am the guy that removed the dash, and it was a BIG and daunting task. Even with the dash removed, the bottom screw was a bit of a challenge due to the large wire harness that runs right across it. When I had this problem, I was amazed how difficult it was to find info on the web. You will/have undoubtedly help many people with this.
That bottom screw was a problem for me as well, until I got a REALLY bright light to see the screw. Once I was able to see it I took a screwdriver to push the wires in to the point where I could easily get a wrench on that screw.
Took me 3 hours start to finish on my 2017 explorer. Hardest part for me was the bottom bolt behind the wire harness, I could feel the bolt but had a hard time getting the socket on it both off and on. All hood now, thanks for the video.
Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.
Thanks for this great video. My son and I did this job today in about 3 hours using your method plus some help from the commenters. I did everything except the bottom screw and he did that when he got home from work (he's a little more flexible than I am LOL). A couple of things I learned: I bought both angle drivers, the DeWalt from Lowes ($30) and the Harbor Freight ($10). We used the DeWalt on the top screws and the Harbor Freight on the bottom because it is about 75 degrees, which worked great. I used a small strip of duct tape to hold the screws on the 8 mm socket to restart them. Also, to orient the splines on the new motor we used a 9 volt battery to turn the shaft to match the way the old one stopped. One other hint I recommend is to find an extra motor screw in case you drop one - we did and could never locate it. But we found one in my spare screw collection that was close enough. Your video is the most thorough repair video I have ever used, and was 100% accurate. Thanks again and I owe you BIG TIME!
Next time take the old motor apart and pull the piece out that turns the door and use it to rotate the door to match the new motor. Makes life quite a bit easier! I've been doing actuators for years and just thought of doing this the other day for the first time lol.
Where the hell can I take you out for a beer. You have not only saved me and other thousands you also made it to where anyone could understand what needs to be done. Thank you!!!!
I have one more thing that helped me do the job on my car. I painted the screw holes with a bright color! Easier to see with all that black things up in there😊
I was quoted $1700 for this recently; fixed it myself yesterday. I definitely didn’t put that back actuator bolt back in, but I got 2. Keep making videos man, you’re doing people great by them!! Thank you, so much!!
Thank the lord there are people like you that will take the time to make a great video like this. Followed this video step by step and it took me about an hour and a half start to finish. Saved me a pile of money doing it myself. God bless you good sir!
I can’t begin to thank you enough! This video saved my butt and my savings account! When I told my wife the dashboard had to come out she wanted to take it to the shop for repair. When she saw that you made it possible she had a little more faith than the normal under the hood repairs. Might have been different than yours, but my actuator was held on by 8mm bolts, not 5/16”.
I just want to thank you again for your video and hard work putting this together for like-minded and suffering Ford Explorer owners nationwide. I followed your video and replaced the actuator today in my 2017 Ford Explorer and it worked after restarting the car. It took me 4 hours because I lost two 8 mm sockets that fell off of my right angle drill extender and I did try to find them. Also, I had some trouble putting back the top screw on the far side basically because there were big bundles of wire blocking the access to the device. But it still was well worth it and I have the right angle tool now plus I saved a lot of money and have the satisfaction of doing it well. I just hope the two sockets that I lost don't get into my brake mechanism, that would be a trip. Anyway thanks again.
Burn - thank you for the video. Just changed the actuator in my 2015 Ford Explorer. Its nice to have the damper controls working again. The total job took about 2 hours. I have a couple of quick suggestions that made the job easier. I used a 1/4" socket set with a universal joint extension. It gave me a little more room to see while I was working. On the actuator screws I used a 5/16" impact driver with the socket set because it is magnetic. It made getting the screws in and out easier. With respect to the actuator alignment, I plugged the instrument cluster in and stood it vertically on the turn signal arm. with one finger I was able to hold the new actuator gently against the damper sprocket and cycle the damper controls. When the actuator cam aligned with the damper sprocket, the actuator slipped in place. It took one cycle and about 30 seconds of work to line everything up. Following your video, made this a manageable job. In fact it took more time to get the top back screw for the actuator back in than the balance of the job. Thank again for your help.
This video helped my husband swap my actuator out. I don’t usually comment on videos but I came here to tell people that if they experience issues with starting their car afterwards because the car doesn’t sense the brake is being pushed, to check their brake switch. Somehow while my husband was switching the actuator, the brake switch became dislodged and was just hanging there. It took longer than it should have for us to find this mainly because we didn’t know it had become dislodged and it took watching many other RUclips videos and phoning a friend to find it. It’s blue and white and runs right by the brake pedal arm so after you’re done, make sure it’s still plugged in. We loved how descript this video was in telling us what tools we needed and what part to get ahead of time.
I just got this job done in about 5 hours thanks to this video. That may seem like a long time to some but I’m very pleased I was able to get it done for 50 bucks instead of 1500 at the dealership. Thank you sir!
Thanks for this video. I did it in 1:30 hrs. I confirm the most difficult part is to put it on back again in the same position you put it out the damaged one.
Just did the swap out on the wife's Explorer. This video was invaluable. Couple notes, the bottom plastic under the steering column does have two screws that need to be removed. I was able to do the job with 1/4" extensions and a universal joint for the actuator's top two screws. I didn't need the DeWalt tool. Would've made it easier though. For me, the bottom actuator screw was the hardest putting back in. All in all, a $30 part and a couple hours!! All good now. Great video.
Just finished up the replacement of the actuator on my 2015 Explorer XLT (3.5L). Thanks to this video it was an absolute breeze. Part number YH1769 was spot on as well as the Dewalt 90 degree attachment. Took me about an hour total solely thanks to this video! Everything was just as shown, including the need to disassemble the old actuator and rotate the vent controls (mine was approximately 15-20 degrees.) I found that the back upper screw was easier to access from below with the use of the Dewalt attachment. All in all, an easy repair after watching this video. Thank you so much for documenting and help the masses here save $$$ by fixing DIY!
This video is spot on. In and out under an hour. Plus the half hour to watch the video, order the part and the tool. A magnetic driver socket bit is how to get the screws back in fast. Nice work on the video.
I've never commented on a youtube video. Ever. But this one saved me so much time and money and provided so much comfort, that I had to leave a note. First - I was able to order the correct part quickly and got the tool specified as well because I've wanted to get one (and really didn't know they were that inexpensive.) But after replacing the incorrect blend motor (the one right below the one in this tutorial) I was able to get this one replaced in under an hour and it worked immediately. Thank you for putting the time and effort into this video! Much appreciated!
Awesome video. Straightforward and incredibly helpful. There is a high level of suck I was due to the tight space, but with some patience, it’ll save you a fortune.
This is one of the best videos on RUclips. Did the job today in 3 hours with about 45 min of breaks through out. He wasn’t kidding about those 90degree screws being a pain. Dorman part number DA1149 works instead of the OEM part.
Had this problem with our 2015 explorer over this past week. Ordered the parts and followed this video. Thanks so much for posting. Took about 2.5 hours but got it done and couldn’t have done it without this video. Awesome job!!
Thanks for the video on this. Got my wife's done in a little over 2 hours. That back screw is a pain in the butt! That was the only problem I had tho. Everything else went pretty straight forward...just, as you say, take your time and try to remember where all the screws go!
My 2015 Explorer Sport had 56K miles when I did this job, however it had unknowingly failed long before that. My Sport instrument bezel had another electrical clip which was easy to pull. After the column lower metal shroud was removed I had a plastic 'toe-kick' trim which came off, too. The actuator's bottom screw used 3"+6" extensions + flex head to get to it. I've got the forearm scratches to attest. The new actuator was monetarily plugged in prior to mounting and advanced to the same position on the old removed one. I used electrical tape to hold the screws into the socket. What a pain! Roughly 3-hours total. All in all an excellent video. Many thanks to you and for other viewers' comments.
THANK YOU...this was a huge savings for me and my family. It was a very time consuming and "awkward" job with all of the hard to reach around areas, but your video was amazing. If you were local I would go buy you a beer right now. Thanks again and I so appreaciate you taking the time to post this.
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! My actuator took a dump on a below zero day last march (which seems to be a theme as I've seen in comments) and left my vents stuck on front. It wasn't that big of a deal all summer as I was running AC, but as soon as it started getting cooler and needed the defrost, I realized I had to get it fixed. I found your video, ordered the part off of Amazon, took my time, and in about 3.5 hours, got it done. Shout out to my petite handed wife who was able to actually get in there and get it placed.
This video saved me a ton of time and money. You were about spot on with it taking about 2 hours. I actually got it done in just over an hour but the little red clip was kind of a pain getting back in. I used a long screw driver and taped it on the end with masking tape and kind of wiggled it back in place. I must’ve got lucky lining up the plastic gear. I did the same as you and turned it with the old one and it lined up perfect the first time. So I could see it taking quite a bit longer if you don’t get everything lined up right away or have trouble with the screws. Hardest thing was getting that back screw and the bottom one back in. The bottom one is a pain with that harness in the way and trying to do it all upside down in such a tight space. Then for the back screw I looked at the old one to help me figure out exactly where to poke the screw back in because you can’t see it at all. The trick with the plastic in the socket worked great.
Just wanted to take a minute and say thank you for this video! You saved my family big time money. I got the tools you recommend, bought the part on RockAuto, and followed step by step. Was able to complete the job in 1.5 hrs on my 2016 XLT 3.5L because of your documentation, THANK YOU!
My friend, you are my hero for capturing all this (after doing so much work figuring out how to do it). I replaced the actuator yesterday in less than 2 hours because of you. THANK YOU!
Okay so I just finished exchanging out the servo. I’m not one to normally take my car apart and fix much unless it’s VERY easy. Somehow the thought of spending $1200 to replace this part got me motivated enough to try. Along with your video I felt confident I could do it. There were times that I needed to step back, take a breath and start again. Mostly the upper back screw. It took me well over an hour just trying to get it back in. After about 3 hours I finished the project and it worked. Time for a well deserved beer. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video. Just finished the install on my wife's 2015 Explorer and probably wouldn't have been able to without it. As you say taking the old gear out and indexing it before you put the new motor in is probably the biggest tip to getting it done. Thanks again!!!
This video was spot on and exactly what I needed for my 2015 Explorer Sport. I paid $30 for the part and took me about 2 and a half hours to replace. Easy and straight forward with this video. Definitely, some fumbling around because of the tight space, but very doable with some patience and the right tools. Much appreciated!
I was able to do this in just over two hours, and i am decent with cars. I wouldn't even have attempted it without this video. The details you gave were on point.
Omg. This video is a life saver. Took me 3 hours and that's only because my bits weren't magnetic so I lost one in the dash and had to go get another. And because my actuator came in assembled incorrectly so I had to carefully take it apart, fix the alignment, then reassemble. After I did that, it took just 15 minutes to install and screw it back in. Thank you so much for this video!
Great Vid! After watching, I was convinced I could tackle the job. After about 4 hours and one lost screw for the actuator, 2016 Ford Explorer Platinum is up and running again!
$1200 repair done for $100!! I got the actuator from a Ford dealer, so I spent a little extra to make sure I got the correct part and OEM. $60 for the part and $40 for a similar type of Dewalt 90° attachment and $1.99 for a pack of chewing gum. 🤣🤣 THANK YOU BRO....THANK YOU BRO....THANK YOU BRO!! This video saved me all kinds of headache. The chewing gum worked perfectly to hold the screw in the socket. DON'T DROP YOUR SCREWS!!
Great video! Just successfully finished this project as well following the instructions to a tee! It took me about 2.5 hours being as patient as I could be to insure I didn't accidentally break anything. Thank you so much for doing this video!
Just wanted to say thank you! Without your video I would have been lost. A couple things...I was able to do the job without the special tool, used 1- 6" extension and 4-3" extensions with a swivel under the socket. When I first mounted the actuator it went right on the gear, but as you said the mounting bolt holes need to align and they didn't. So, with the electrical connected to the actuator (and the Speedometer plugged in, so the "My Ford Sync" would work) I put the actuator on with light pressure on the gear, holding it in position for the bolt holes to line up, I selected between the different modes ie. defrost, face, floor until it slid right in. Thanks again, I'm sure you saved many people from paying a lot of money for a mechanic.
Just followed the instructions in your video for a 2015 explorer. Ordered the tool and the part. In total took myself and my son about 3 hours in total. Just need to be patient with the bolt at the back. Great video. THANKS VERY MUCH FOR PUTTING THIS TOGETHER
@@burn31 Only thing we did different was we disconnected and reconnected the harness once we'd dropped it down. Really appreciate you doing this as I wouldn't have known where to start. Great learning experience for my kid who just bought an ex police explorer where everything is broken!
I just finished this! With watching your amazing video and some messing around I got this job done in just about 2 hours! The tool was definitely needed and was definitely easier from the bottom for the lower and back screw. Thank you a million times! I would pick up the tab after a long night at the bar for this guy! Thanks man!
Great video!!!! Thank you for posting. I followed your direction and repaired my wife’s explorer in less than 2 hrs. People like you make RUclips great! 2015 explorer limited.
This just happened to my wife's car. I fixed the heating blendor on the passenger side. Now looking at your video, I can fix the vent selector next weekend. Thanks again for your video!! Great help!! MC
Thank you very much for taking the time to document this task ,this would have cost a fortune if the dealer had to do it and just some advise for anyone attempting to do this I was able to skip the manual adjusting of the actuator by plugging the new actuator into the harness and using the infotainment screen adjust the new actuator to the vent position from there it was smooth sailing
Burn 1327: awesome job on the video. I bought the right angle tool and removed actuator but kept it plugged in. I then changed the settings on the dashboard and the actuator gear wheel moved to different positions on its own. I removed the center bezel and stuck a prybar inside the vent and it was really hard to move the damper. I sprayed white lithium grease in the pivot points and again with the pry bar, then moving much easier. Re-installed the same actuator and working fine. Thanks for the video.
Just replaced mine on a 2016 explorer. Same part number. Thank you for the video. I did not use the dewalt flex 90. A 1/4" long extension with a 1/4" swivel at the end worked just fine on all 3 screws. To put the screws back, I taped the screw to the 5/16" socket with masking tape.
Just did this! I watched the video prior and was able to get it done in 45 minutes with a wobble and a few extensions. Great video with lots of good stuff, thanks.
SIRRRRRR!!! You are a lifesaver!! I had never done any work on my car and was a bit intimidated to say the least. Your video was amazing, all your tips and pointers were so unbelievably helpful I cannot thank you enough! Getting the actuator gear lined up was the hardest part, and losing screws but man I got it all installed and back together with all the vent options now working! Even my husband was like damn ok first time mechanic!! Could not have done it without this THANK YOU!!
Brilliant Burn! Just took me 1 1/2 hours to complete. I used a 12" Craftsmen extension and a quarter coupler. A head light is really helpful. Couple of procedural comments 1) Start w/ 3 - 7mm screws below steering wheel first and work your way to metal bracket then proceed to instrument panel. This is important in separating bottom plastic panel under steering wheel and top plastic panel (with clips) that trims out instrument cluster. Careful with the clips behind steering wheel so as to not break. 2) Remove electrical connector to actuator once it's dropped down 3) Hot melt glue is a good idea, as commented by another tuber, when starting screws back into holes - head light really helpful here. Burn, you're the Man!
Thanks for the video! Although it was a bit on the long side, really helpful for showing the access to the motor. Took me just under an hour... it was actually 1:01, but that includes time to get the magnifying glass out so I could read the part number on the socket I used so I could share it with y'all (see below). I have to say, I spent 12 years as a technician at a Ford dealership, which was helpful; however I left 15 years ago, so never did this job before. I also have small hands which is extremely helpful. For the top two bolts I used a swivel socket (Snap-on part # TMUSAM8 - $50) and a 15" extension. Snap-on tools are not cheap, but I already had the socket from back in the day, so it cost me nothing. For the bottom bolt I just used a regular 8 mm socket and a 3" or 4" extension. No drill needed for the actuator bolts, although it will make the job go faster if you use one for the trim bolts. As far as the engineering goes, don't complain. There are some model Fords that you MUST pull the dash to replace the blend door actuator. They don't build cars with the convenience of repairs as the first priority. Moreover, in the early 2000's the blend door itself would break on some models and you would have to replace the whole plenum assembly... meaning R&R the dash, replace plenum, incl discharge and recharge the A/C system... that was an all-day job at the dealership with all the right tools. Another tip for keeping a screw/bolt from falling off a socket: pack a little Vaseline in the socket and then put the screw into the socket (don't laugh, it works). It works well on small screws, not so much big stuff. BTW, wasn't necessary for this job, as I was able to start all three screws by hand because I have small hands.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to document the process. I plan on fixing wife's car this weekend and this will help immensely. Ford should be ashamed of themselves for this design. This was obviously thought up by a design engineer who's never had to actually get his hands dirty working on things like this.
My Explorer actuator stopped working when the weather was a wonderful -21 Monday in Kansas. Wanted to thank you for the time you spent making the video. Replaced the part last night, wish I was a bit skinner to work under the dash. THANKS AGAIN
Awesome video! Definitely saved me a ton of money. I'm not as flexible as I used to be. Getting underneath the steering wheel was a challenge. I ended up getting the ottoman out of the house and some pillows for the floor mat area. That was a game changer for me. It made everything so much easier.
This video was extremely helpful!! I just finished using this video to replace mine. It took me 2.5 hours to do the job. I used Dorman part# 604-622 from autozone and it fixed my issue on my 2014 Ford explorer. Thank you for this very detailed video !!
OMG YOU ARE THE MAN!!! This video saved me a LOT of money and a LOT of time!!! Ford sold me a YH-1779 but it was the wrong one. That one is for the fresh air/recirc actuator. Burn_1327 is correct. The driver side (defrost/vent/floor actuator) is part #YH-1769. So glad I didn't have to take apart the dash. I cant thank you enough for this video. Don't forget you need to have the cluster plugged in for it to work. Also, the easiest way I found to get the teeth lined up was to place the actuator up against where it goes in and while pressing it lightly to the opening, turn on the car and wait till she slides in. The actuator will rotate when you turn on the car. Once the teeth line up it slides on super easy.
Another big thank you for your video. Knocked this out in about 90 minutes (including children interruptions) on our 2016 Explorer Sport. To those attempting this: ensure your screws for the actuator are secured in the socket. If they drop, they go into the abyss that is the center console area. Luckily I found the one I dropped between the chassis and the carpet. Best of luck to all who attempt this!
It works! Thank you for posting this. Took about 3 hours and the right angle drive is the key. That and a bit of contortion… As far as clocking the gear, I marked the old motor with paint and then put a corresponding mark on the new motor and shaft. I plugged it in to the harness loosely and turned on the climate control. As it cycled I pulled the plug just as it hit the mark and was then aligned to the old one. You then have to pull the fuse #46 otherwise when you plug it back in it looks to reset position. Once installed you can put the fuse back in and you’re good to go. Part was $41 from the dealer.
As with everyone else here, thank you for your video. Did the whole thing in about an hour and a half on a 2016 Explorer. I used the 90 bit to get the bottom one reaching from underneath. I could use a long screwdriver to turn the vent selector to line the new part up. Thanks again! Cheers!
Amazing videos!!!!! Thank you soooo much. Just did my 2016 limited. One tip, you could move the white wheel where the actuator goes using a flat head screw driver to align the key of the new actuator with the hole to make it easy to install.
Great video. Gave me all the information needed to attempt this job. Watched this several times before attempting and had to fall back on it during the job. 100% you have to put your mindset (I am VERY impatient) to have patience and stay calm to get this one done. It's going to be a bit, but will be 100% worth it. Found a Motorcraft replacement (hoping its not a knockoff) on Amazon for $41. Found the suggested tool, non-dewalt brand, for $15. The toughest part of this job is removing and reinstalling the actuator. Those damm three screws will be a bugger. Stay pro-active and it'll work. When I installed the new actuator, as others have posted, I got the actuator in position (had the front top screw started, by lucky easily) and held in place while changing the settings on the dash mode positions and until I felt the actuator slip into place. After that I got the lower screw into place and tightened and then tested the install. It worked! Fought a bit with the top back screw way too long but got it done. Reinstalling the cluster, lower dash panel and steering column shrouds were joyful at that point. Patience, Patience, Patience. It will be worth it. My overall all time, which included replacing the battery on our 2016 Explorer was 4.5 hours. I hoped it'd of gone quicker, but overall I am pretty stoked on the entire job. Happily sitting here with a celebratory cocktail. I lied.... cocktails. Glad all prior posters got the job done and will say to any new attempters..... if you have the tools to do so and can keep the mindset of staying calm and expecting to go through some hurdles.... you can do this. This video is the tops, there is one more out there that also gave me a little insight but this guy is my hero. You ever come to S.E. Wisconsin let me know!! Round of drinks on me. I'll drive, now with a windshield defroster that works!
THANK YOU for making this video!!!! I just replaced the vent selection actuator on my 2015 Explorer. I can't even tell you how much this video helped me get this done. I read a lot of the comments, and followed some suggestions from others. I used hot glue to hold the screws in the socket for replacement, and used a 9 volt battery to turn the gear on the new actuator so it would line up correctly, both worked GREAT. I was able to get to the top, rear, screw by using a couple of 6 inch extensions and a swivel. Thanks again for this very thorough video.
THANK YOU! At some point this winter the heat in my 2015 Ford FLEX Limited got stuck on defrost only. It wouldn't change to vents or floor etc. After some research, I came across this video. Thank you for posting such a detailed and helpful resource. Upon looking under my dash. It was plain to see it was essentially the same As what you show here. So, I thought I knew What I was getting into. Until I got started… I instantly realized the trim panels are quite different. I had to take off quite a lot more trim to get to that instrument cluster. Not to mention I’m pretty sure things were tighter and less visible in mine. I did not invest in the Dewalt tool. Instead, I just used long extensions and a jointed swivel socket adapter. That thing might've help for sure. But I got the job done. It took longer than I figured. However, I took my time and cleaned up all the trim panels before I put it all back together. Whew 😥 My ribs are definitely bruised and I have a few nicks and cuts on my hands. But I did it with your help thank you so much! 🛠 P.S. Regarding lining up the gear. As soon as I took the old actuator out, it started spinning. That would’ve led me to believe it was not broken! However I had previously watched another video of the same repair. He uninstalled his and reinstalled the same one because when it spun he assumed it was not broken. So, I just plugged the new one in. It started spinning and I held it in place until the gear lined up and I just pushed it in flush. Then the motor stopped spinning. Then I just had to struggle to reinstall the three screws.
This was awesome, thank you! Some additional tips. I think you can use a u-joint instead of the flex head. Also you don’t need to crack the actuator. Just position it close and turn on your ignition. Put a little pressure on it while it turns and it’ll pop in place when aligned. I had to plug in the gauges to get the climate control to turn on.
I just used your video to replace the "Heater Blend Door Actuator" or "Heater Blend Door Lever" (depending on the manufacturer) in my 2013 Ford Explorer Limited. Our setup was a little different (a few extra connectors, a few more things in the way), but following your steps allowed my dad and I pull this off flawlessly. Thank you so much for posting this video; you just saved me $600-$800!
Success! Dealer quoted me $500-$1,200 this morning and said they would need to take the whole dash off. Thanks to your video, I was able to do the repair in about two hours. Hardest part for me was reconnecting the wiring harness and inserting that red clip back in. I actually had to remove the new actuator after I installed it in order to get it plugged back in. Thank you so much for posting this. I wouldn't have figured it out myself!
Great great video. I just finished my 2016 Explore. I would recommend taking the lower panels off first and put on last when restoring. Any screw dropped from the instrument cluster or doing the actuator has a chance of making it to the floor. I hooked up the new actuator to power and let it rotate to match the keyway of the failed actuator. It was close, but I still had to hold in place, power on, cycle through the vent modes until it aligned and popped into place. I have long arms and was barely able, would be easier with two people. If you put a small super magnet of the socket adapter shaft it should hold the screw in the socket. I did use an after market actuator from Advance auto. Advance said it had a lifetime warranty. All I would need to do is bring it in :-( ....Thanks again for the great video.
I must say,, u r THE MAN for showing people how to fix this step by step By step even after getting it all done. OUT OF NOWHERE Mine just blows from the front vents no more floors or defroster. I'm no mechanic.lol but I'm going to try once i get the parts i dont have that touch screen just the basic control buttons so I hope this still works cuz I can't find any other good and detailed vids like this. So hope I can follow ur steps and will update when I get it fixed .
Awesome job recording this fix. Save big bucks thanks to your help!! Everything went as shown, did spend sometime getting new part lined up to slide in. That 90 degree angle was the ticket. Can’t thank you enough. The guy at the parts shop did’t think I would get it done, thanks to you I have a working A/C system.
THANK YOU!! I was able to do this thanks to you. One thing I would suggest is to move your steering wheel all the way out (I think) because the screw that moves it was in my way. And moves the brake pedals all the way in. Also using the gear from the old actuator is key to align the doors to get the new one installed. I removed/installed the screws with a long extension (harbor freight) and a wobble socket. Also Wes Baton's video said to watch your video, so shout out to him.
This video was very helpful. I got it swapped right before a Colorado snow storm so my wife could use the defrost again. It took me about an hour for the repair. We ended up trading the Explorer in the next day lol. Nice video!!!
Thanks! followed this video on my 2015 explorer and was done in under 3 hours. only thing i did different was i didnt break open the old one. instead, i held the new one and old one side by side and plugged in the new one. As it spun i unplugged it at the same position to match the old one
Hit my actuator with a screw driver and it switched to the correct vent. These actuators have narrow metal contact points and I think that mine timed out in a bad spot and wouldn't work electronically. I took the plastic panel off to get to the inside fuse panel and looked up at the actuator and tried it with the car running and heat on. Took 4 taps from the screwdriver then I heard it change settings.
@@DaleSeim I tried the same thing. Unfortunately mine only worked for a few days after so I decided to replace it. Hope yours stays permanently fixed 👍
Followed your instructions and got the job done in less than 3 hours. Part of the time was finding the socket and two screws I dropped in the area behind the center console covers. After getting the main three screws out and removed the bad part, I thought there is no way I'm getting those screws back in. It was easier to put them in than get them out. Thank you for this video, it was perfect.
Thanks for the video! I was able to do the major part in under an hour but that last screw is kicking my butt!!!! Still saved me a ton of money with this video.
You sir, are a hero. Did this today on my 2015 XLT. Had some interruptions and took my time Overall it took about 6 hours. Used the DeWalt extension and didn't end up with any extra screws. Finally decided to hold the new actuator in place and let it run till it slid into place. That was only after trying a couple other methods I read in these comments - hence the 6 hours. There was a wire harness in the way of that top back screw, but I was able to pull the clip and that made the difference I needed. Only thing I wish I did was put the red clip in before everything I listed above. I wasn't able to get it in after installing the actuator and then I lost it. Couldn't find it anywhere. But it fell out as I was hitting the clips into place under the steering column! I'll deal with that another time. Few clips and 4 screws, maybe in the warmer weather and better light I'll be able to clip it in.
Thank you so much for this video. The job went just as you said it would, took me 3 hours (I had a flexible drill attachment but not one with a 90 degree head, that would have made it much quicker). Your documentation of the job is much appreciated!
Thanks for making this video! Saved myself a ton of time, and repaired it in about 90 mins. The procedure shown was spot on. Advice for other viewers: the 90 degree attachment isn't 100% necessary as a swivel attachment will get the job done. I used three 1/4 extensions, swivel and socket to get to the top 2 screws. It wasn't easy, but it did the job. I'd also recommend a pair of long reach plier to help you hold the replacement unit in position while you try to insert it into the notched holes.
absolutely amazing video, highly descriptive and accurate, what would've been a 6-10 hour job was completed in a little under 2 hours thanks to you. thanks for your help even 4 years later.
what I ended up doing was holding the actuator in place and plugged in the dash and had wife select the vent mode and it popped right in place. Great video thanks for the all the info. Also i used a piece of electrical tape poked a hole in it and taped to socket.
Great video Burn, I helped my brother in-law do this yesterday. 2-1/2 hours start to finish. We had the Dewalt tool but we just used a 1/4 " ratchet with it, not the screw gun. Seemed to fit a little easier. Thanks again !
And yet again, another thankful person for this video. Just finished completing it on my 2015 Explorer in 2hrs. The 90 degree drill flex extension is an absolute must!! Thanks!
Thank you SO much for making this video! My wife’s 2015 XLT got stuck on defrost mode on Sunday. I found your video, ordered the part, it came in Friday and I was able to use your video to get it changed. Saved us probably $1000-1500. Again, I can’t thank you enough! Hardest part was the back bolt. I made it more difficult than it should’ve been, though, because I was using a socket bit adapter on the 90 degree tool with the 5/16 socket and I simply couldn’t get it on the bolt with a harness in the way. I figured that something that fit the tool but was shorter was what I needed. I grabbed a 5/16 impact driver socket that fit into the 90 degree tool and it gave me an extra inch to work with and that’s all I needed. If I had used that to begin with it would’ve saved me a lot of time.
Great video!! So helpful and much easier on the pocket!! Just finished my replacement on my 2015 Explorer in two hours with this informative video and tutorial. Got my part from Ford dealer in Texas, was now $46.01 and I got my deWalt angle extension from Lowes. Thank you for posting and helping us all out!!
You must be super lucky or incredibly skilled to get the 3 screws holding the actuator in and out so fast in addition to removing and reinstalling the car parts blocking the actuator!
Burn - you are the man! The 90degree tool worked a charm and there is no way to do it without this tool or removing much more of the dash. Thank you for your detailed tutorial - I was able to get it replaced in about an hour thanks to watching your video first. I was lucky my actuator died in the natural place of the new one so I was able to skip the step of turning the gear. The default place is the top vents by the way.
Great instructor. Worked. You can also do it easily with a 1/4 drive 8mm socked and a universal, or a 1/4 drive 8 mm flex socket. 1/4 spring flex extensions in a few lengths help too. To install, you don't need to line up the splines. Plug in the dash plug and actuator plug, turn the car on, and have someone run they the air vent switch while you very gently push the actuator into place. The splines will line up and it will slip on. Careful because when you turn the car off it will slip back off. The original video missed the elec plug for the instrument box trim panel. To hold a screw in a socket, screw it into the adhesive side of a piece of masking tape and then tape it to the socket. When the screw takes, the tape easily pulls off with the socket. Always tape sockets and extensions together. It's possible to drop sockets and screws into a hole above the floor duct. You can barely feel it. Stuff in a piece of duct tape, then fish out the tape with a fish hook, line and wire. The socket can come out with the tape. Worked for me after a few hours. Or try a magnetic retriever. Or cover before starting the work- the smart way. Most screws dropped go right to the floorboard.
Thank you so much for putting this out. Your instructions were flawless. Took me a little over 2 hours and would have been quicker if I had not been extremely deliberate keeping tools and screws organized. Very well done!
This is a really GREAT video. I just finished the replacement on my 2015 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L. I ordered the part online from Rock Auto, but the manufacturer had given them the wrong information saying the the YH1769 part was for a 2017-2019 Explorer, so I got the wrong part first. I found it easier to mark the new YH1769 so I could align it to the same orientation as the bad part, then connect it and let it rotate to the correct position, and disconnect it. If you don’t disconnect it, it continues to rotate) With that done, I placed it in place, and put in the screws, top front first, bottom next and then found it easier to use the 90 degree tool from the bottom, with help from my son to line it up and presto, we were done. Oh I used Tick-Tac in the socket to hold the screws in place, which worked really great too. Replaced everything and it works fine.
Great to hear. Happy new year
Hey my friend. I also plug my in so it could rotate to the correct position.
Do you mean you plugged it in BEFORE you instled it?
@@curtishendrix2493 I do not understand the plug in step prior to installatiom
Please explain plug in and rotate to correct position. You mean change the vent setting?
This is my first and probably my last Ford vehicle. Four recalls, a dead alternator at 67000 miles and all along a failed vent actuator. I'm ready to call Ford and ask what's next. Thank you Good Samaritan for helping out in this otherwise messed up job.
My 2015 explorer just hit 305k miles with original engine and trans. Just had this issue with the actuator and I am blown away to hear you upset with yours. Hope it goes better!
I've had the same issues minus the dead alternator. I've enjoyed the vehicle for it's size and comfort but the issues I've had with it make me never want another one.
Great video. I did this repair Oct. 2023. My actuator was stuck and only allowed air via the middle vents. Since it wouldn't blow air at the defroster, this created an unsafe driving situation resolved with open windows (not a warm solution). In winter, no warm air at the feet is a problem. Replacing the actuator solved all problems. It is a pain to get actuator off and also put the 3 screws back to hold the new one in place. I taped the top of the screw to the socket to keep it in place as I searched for the hole to screw it in. Still time consuming but I didn't have to worry about dropped screw or socket.
Tip: prior to setting actuator in place, I plugged it into the connector, started the engine (I didn't need to reconnect the instrument cluster, I have a 2016 Explorer) and then tested the 3 vent direction options. I could see the shaft turn to accommodate the chosen setting but since the rotator shaft wasn't inserted into the receiving hole this didn't affect the air flow. After this, I attached the actuator. Tested again before putting everything back together, and all worked perfectly and air flow going where it was supposed to go. Again, I didn't have to connect the instrument cluster to test it, but if that was needed it is super simple to just plug it in without screwing it pack in place before starting the engine and doing the test.
Tip: I got the same Motorcraft part YH-1769 at Amazon. Why pay about $80 at dealership when Amazon sells exact same part for under $28. At dealership I was told replacement of part was listed as a 3-hour job and total cost over $800. I bought a flex shaft 90° extension Amazon $16 (essential) and did the job myself. The only really bad part is getting the one back top screw out as you explain but patience needed for all 3 screws. With my luck, that part of the job took 90 minutes. Altogether, my limited basic skills got the job done in less than 2 1/2 hours, including time to double check with your video and being very careful.
FYI: My 2016 Explorer also has Motorcraft part Motorcraft part YH-1779 part that is similar to Motorcraft part YH-1769 except it has a white plastic cover and is installed below YH-1769. YH-1779 is much easier to access and I bought one on Amazon in case both were needed. I didn't open that part bag and since it was not needed, I returned it to Amazon for full refund. You may not have that part for your vehicle, but if you do, that actuator might be a source of problems.
Thanks. You saved people lots of money!!!
This guy deserves a medal for going back and capturing all this (for us) after he was finished with the replacement. I'm certainly glad he did.
Ford deserves to have their asses kicked for 1) installing such cheap actuators in the first place, and 2) requiring a dashboard dismantle to replace them.
Reminds me of replacing a heater blower fan on my old Pontiac. Had to cut a hole through the wheel-well to get at it. Later I asked the dealer mechanic how he would have done it. Same way. No wonder most people have switched to Japanese or Korean cars.
Glad I could help!
Completely agree that FORD screwed up here, what a BAD DESIGN!
Just in case anyone doesn't have a 5/16 socket... That 5/16 socket is the same as an 8mm socket, that vehicle doesn't actually use any SAE bolt head sizes on it, they are metric, so it's technically an 8mm, but a 5/16 fits the same so either can be used. Great video man, thanks for posting it!
Side note, if anyone watching doesn't have a 7mm, a 9/32 is the same.. nothing is the same as a 10 though, you'll need a 10
3 years later and this video is still putting smiles on faces. Well done man. And THANK YOU and if all 600+ commentors completed this themselves, you've saved us likely a million or two😊
This is the BEST video on changing this part out. If I could contact this guy I would buy him a case of beer! I couldn't have done this job without this video.
Thanks for taking the time to document this. I am the guy that removed the dash, and it was a BIG and daunting task. Even with the dash removed, the bottom screw was a bit of a challenge due to the large wire harness that runs right across it. When I had this problem, I was amazed how difficult it was to find info on the web. You will/have undoubtedly help many people with this.
Boy, that must have been a pain. I considered removing the dash but my my laziness and lack of patience took over haha.
That bottom screw was a problem for me as well, until I got a REALLY bright light to see the screw. Once I was able to see it I took a screwdriver to push the wires in to the point where I could easily get a wrench on that screw.
Took me 3 hours start to finish on my 2017 explorer. Hardest part for me was the bottom bolt behind the wire harness, I could feel the bolt but had a hard time getting the socket on it both off and on. All hood now, thanks for the video.
Hey same just did mine too. Crazy world
Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.
Thanks for this great video. My son and I did this job today in about 3 hours using your method plus some help from the commenters. I did everything except the bottom screw and he did that when he got home from work (he's a little more flexible than I am LOL). A couple of things I learned: I bought both angle drivers, the DeWalt from Lowes ($30) and the Harbor Freight ($10). We used the DeWalt on the top screws and the Harbor Freight on the bottom because it is about 75 degrees, which worked great. I used a small strip of duct tape to hold the screws on the 8 mm socket to restart them. Also, to orient the splines on the new motor we used a 9 volt battery to turn the shaft to match the way the old one stopped. One other hint I recommend is to find an extra motor screw in case you drop one - we did and could never locate it. But we found one in my spare screw collection that was close enough. Your video is the most thorough repair video I have ever used, and was 100% accurate. Thanks again and I owe you BIG TIME!
These are some great tips. Thanks for the info.
Next time take the old motor apart and pull the piece out that turns the door and use it to rotate the door to match the new motor. Makes life quite a bit easier! I've been doing actuators for years and just thought of doing this the other day for the first time lol.
Where the hell can I take you out for a beer. You have not only saved me and other thousands you also made it to where anyone could understand what needs to be done. Thank you!!!!
Everyone who used this video to replace this actuator should really send this guy 50 bucks. Excellent video my man.
I have one more thing that helped me do the job on my car. I painted the screw holes with a bright color! Easier to see with all that black things up in there😊
I was quoted $1700 for this recently; fixed it myself yesterday. I definitely didn’t put that back actuator bolt back in, but I got 2. Keep making videos man, you’re doing people great by them!! Thank you, so much!!
Thank the lord there are people like you that will take the time to make a great video like this. Followed this video step by step and it took me about an hour and a half start to finish. Saved me a pile of money doing it myself. God bless you good sir!
That's great to hear. I'm glad to have helped in some way. Take care
I can’t begin to thank you enough! This video saved my butt and my savings account! When I told my wife the dashboard had to come out she wanted to take it to the shop for repair. When she saw that you made it possible she had a little more faith than the normal under the hood repairs. Might have been different than yours, but my actuator was held on by 8mm bolts, not 5/16”.
I just want to thank you again for your video and hard work putting this together for like-minded and suffering Ford Explorer owners nationwide. I followed your video and replaced the actuator today in my 2017 Ford Explorer and it worked after restarting the car. It took me 4 hours because I lost two 8 mm sockets that fell off of my right angle drill extender and I did try to find them. Also, I had some trouble putting back the top screw on the far side basically because there were big bundles of wire blocking the access to the device. But it still was well worth it and I have the right angle tool now plus I saved a lot of money and have the satisfaction of doing it well. I just hope the two sockets that I lost don't get into my brake mechanism, that would be a trip. Anyway thanks again.
Good job 👌👍
Burn - thank you for the video. Just changed the actuator in my 2015 Ford Explorer. Its nice to have the damper controls working again. The total job took about 2 hours. I have a couple of quick suggestions that made the job easier. I used a 1/4" socket set with a universal joint extension. It gave me a little more room to see while I was working. On the actuator screws I used a 5/16" impact driver with the socket set because it is magnetic. It made getting the screws in and out easier. With respect to the actuator alignment, I plugged the instrument cluster in and stood it vertically on the turn signal arm. with one finger I was able to hold the new actuator gently against the damper sprocket and cycle the damper controls. When the actuator cam aligned with the damper sprocket, the actuator slipped in place. It took one cycle and about 30 seconds of work to line everything up. Following your video, made this a manageable job. In fact it took more time to get the top back screw for the actuator back in than the balance of the job. Thank again for your help.
This video helped my husband swap my actuator out. I don’t usually comment on videos but I came here to tell people that if they experience issues with starting their car afterwards because the car doesn’t sense the brake is being pushed, to check their brake switch. Somehow while my husband was switching the actuator, the brake switch became dislodged and was just hanging there. It took longer than it should have for us to find this mainly because we didn’t know it had become dislodged and it took watching many other RUclips videos and phoning a friend to find it. It’s blue and white and runs right by the brake pedal arm so after you’re done, make sure it’s still plugged in.
We loved how descript this video was in telling us what tools we needed and what part to get ahead of time.
I just got this job done in about 5 hours thanks to this video. That may seem like a long time to some but I’m very pleased I was able to get it done for 50 bucks instead of 1500 at the dealership. Thank you sir!
Thanks for this video. I did it in 1:30 hrs. I confirm the most difficult part is to put it on back again in the same position you put it out the damaged one.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Just did the swap out on the wife's Explorer. This video was invaluable. Couple notes, the bottom plastic under the steering column does have two screws that need to be removed. I was able to do the job with 1/4" extensions and a universal joint for the actuator's top two screws. I didn't need the DeWalt tool. Would've made it easier though. For me, the bottom actuator screw was the hardest putting back in. All in all, a $30 part and a couple hours!! All good now. Great video.
Just finished up the replacement of the actuator on my 2015 Explorer XLT (3.5L). Thanks to this video it was an absolute breeze. Part number YH1769 was spot on as well as the Dewalt 90 degree attachment. Took me about an hour total solely thanks to this video! Everything was just as shown, including the need to disassemble the old actuator and rotate the vent controls (mine was approximately 15-20 degrees.) I found that the back upper screw was easier to access from below with the use of the Dewalt attachment. All in all, an easy repair after watching this video. Thank you so much for documenting and help the masses here save $$$ by fixing DIY!
Could this be done from just the bottom
This video is spot on. In and out under an hour. Plus the half hour to watch the video, order the part and the tool. A magnetic driver socket bit is how to get the screws back in fast. Nice work on the video.
Thank you for this, took me under an hour start to finish. Put some tape on the three screws that mount the actuator to keep them from falling off.
I've never commented on a youtube video. Ever. But this one saved me so much time and money and provided so much comfort, that I had to leave a note. First - I was able to order the correct part quickly and got the tool specified as well because I've wanted to get one (and really didn't know they were that inexpensive.) But after replacing the incorrect blend motor (the one right below the one in this tutorial) I was able to get this one replaced in under an hour and it worked immediately.
Thank you for putting the time and effort into this video! Much appreciated!
Awesome video. Straightforward and incredibly helpful. There is a high level of suck I was due to the tight space, but with some patience, it’ll save you a fortune.
This is one of the best videos on RUclips. Did the job today in 3 hours with about 45 min of breaks through out. He wasn’t kidding about those 90degree screws being a pain. Dorman part number DA1149 works instead of the OEM part.
Had this problem with our 2015 explorer over this past week. Ordered the parts and followed this video. Thanks so much for posting. Took about 2.5 hours but got it done and couldn’t have done it without this video. Awesome job!!
Thanks for the video on this. Got my wife's done in a little over 2 hours. That back screw is a pain in the butt! That was the only problem I had tho. Everything else went pretty straight forward...just, as you say, take your time and try to remember where all the screws go!
My 2015 Explorer Sport had 56K miles when I did this job, however it had unknowingly failed long before that. My Sport instrument bezel had another electrical clip which was easy to pull. After the column lower metal shroud was removed I had a plastic 'toe-kick' trim which came off, too. The actuator's bottom screw used 3"+6" extensions + flex head to get to it. I've got the forearm scratches to attest. The new actuator was monetarily plugged in prior to mounting and advanced to the same position on the old removed one. I used electrical tape to hold the screws into the socket. What a pain! Roughly 3-hours total.
All in all an excellent video. Many thanks to you and for other viewers' comments.
THANK YOU...this was a huge savings for me and my family. It was a very time consuming and "awkward" job with all of the hard to reach around areas, but your video was amazing. If you were local I would go buy you a beer right now.
Thanks again and I so appreaciate you taking the time to post this.
Glad I was able to help. Cheers!
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! My actuator took a dump on a below zero day last march (which seems to be a theme as I've seen in comments) and left my vents stuck on front. It wasn't that big of a deal all summer as I was running AC, but as soon as it started getting cooler and needed the defrost, I realized I had to get it fixed. I found your video, ordered the part off of Amazon, took my time, and in about 3.5 hours, got it done. Shout out to my petite handed wife who was able to actually get in there and get it placed.
This video saved me a ton of time and money. You were about spot on with it taking about 2 hours. I actually got it done in just over an hour but the little red clip was kind of a pain getting back in. I used a long screw driver and taped it on the end with masking tape and kind of wiggled it back in place. I must’ve got lucky lining up the plastic gear. I did the same as you and turned it with the old one and it lined up perfect the first time. So I could see it taking quite a bit longer if you don’t get everything lined up right away or have trouble with the screws.
Hardest thing was getting that back screw and the bottom one back in. The bottom one is a pain with that harness in the way and trying to do it all upside down in such a tight space. Then for the back screw I looked at the old one to help me figure out exactly where to poke the screw back in because you can’t see it at all. The trick with the plastic in the socket worked great.
Just wanted to take a minute and say thank you for this video! You saved my family big time money. I got the tools you recommend, bought the part on RockAuto, and followed step by step. Was able to complete the job in 1.5 hrs on my 2016 XLT 3.5L because of your documentation, THANK YOU!
My friend, you are my hero for capturing all this (after doing so much work figuring out how to do it). I replaced the actuator yesterday in less than 2 hours because of you. THANK YOU!
Thank you! Glad I was able to help.
Okay so I just finished exchanging out the servo. I’m not one to normally take my car apart and fix much unless it’s VERY easy. Somehow the thought of spending $1200 to replace this part got me motivated enough to try. Along with your video I felt confident I could do it. There were times that I needed to step back, take a breath and start again. Mostly the upper back screw. It took me well over an hour just trying to get it back in. After about 3 hours I finished the project and it worked. Time for a well deserved beer. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video. Just finished the install on my wife's 2015 Explorer and probably wouldn't have been able to without it. As you say taking the old gear out and indexing it before you put the new motor in is probably the biggest tip to getting it done. Thanks again!!!
This video was spot on and exactly what I needed for my 2015 Explorer Sport. I paid $30 for the part and took me about 2 and a half hours to replace. Easy and straight forward with this video. Definitely, some fumbling around because of the tight space, but very doable with some patience and the right tools. Much appreciated!
Do you recall the part number for your 2015, I need one for mine!
I was able to do this in just over two hours, and i am decent with cars. I wouldn't even have attempted it without this video. The details you gave were on point.
Omg. This video is a life saver. Took me 3 hours and that's only because my bits weren't magnetic so I lost one in the dash and had to go get another. And because my actuator came in assembled incorrectly so I had to carefully take it apart, fix the alignment, then reassemble. After I did that, it took just 15 minutes to install and screw it back in. Thank you so much for this video!
Great Vid! After watching, I was convinced I could tackle the job. After about 4 hours and one lost screw for the actuator, 2016 Ford Explorer Platinum is up and running again!
You single handedly just saved me 1400 dollars! Thank you! Works like a charm and took me a little over an hour.
Wow under two hours. Nice!
$1,400? Gees man
$1200 repair done for $100!! I got the actuator from a Ford dealer, so I spent a little extra to make sure I got the correct part and OEM. $60 for the part and $40 for a similar type of Dewalt 90° attachment and $1.99 for a pack of chewing gum. 🤣🤣 THANK YOU BRO....THANK YOU BRO....THANK YOU BRO!! This video saved me all kinds of headache. The chewing gum worked perfectly to hold the screw in the socket.
DON'T DROP YOUR SCREWS!!
We did ours under 2 hours, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. The flex tool is sure is the key and I'm glad I bought it for this job.
Awesome! Glad the video helped out
Great video! Just successfully finished this project as well following the instructions to a tee! It took me about 2.5 hours being as patient as I could be to insure I didn't accidentally break anything. Thank you so much for doing this video!
Just wanted to say thank you! Without your video I would have been lost. A couple things...I was able to do the job without the special tool, used 1- 6" extension and 4-3" extensions with a swivel under the socket. When I first mounted the actuator it went right on the gear, but as you said the mounting bolt holes need to align and they didn't. So, with the electrical connected to the actuator (and the Speedometer plugged in, so the "My Ford Sync" would work) I put the actuator on with light pressure on the gear, holding it in position for the bolt holes to line up, I selected between the different modes ie. defrost, face, floor until it slid right in. Thanks again, I'm sure you saved many people from paying a lot of money for a mechanic.
Just followed the instructions in your video for a 2015 explorer. Ordered the tool and the part. In total took myself and my son about 3 hours in total. Just need to be patient with the bolt at the back. Great video. THANKS VERY MUCH FOR PUTTING THIS TOGETHER
Great news! Glad I could help.
@@burn31 Only thing we did different was we disconnected and reconnected the harness once we'd dropped it down. Really appreciate you doing this as I wouldn't have known where to start. Great learning experience for my kid who just bought an ex police explorer where everything is broken!
I just finished this! With watching your amazing video and some messing around I got this job done in just about 2 hours! The tool was definitely needed and was definitely easier from the bottom for the lower and back screw. Thank you a million times! I would pick up the tab after a long night at the bar for this guy! Thanks man!
Great video!!!! Thank you for posting. I followed your direction and repaired my wife’s explorer in less than 2 hrs. People like you make RUclips great! 2015 explorer limited.
This just happened to my wife's car. I fixed the heating blendor on the passenger side. Now looking at your video, I can fix the vent selector next weekend. Thanks again for your video!! Great help!! MC
Just replaced mine today 1.5 hours n now it’s working fine. Thank you so much for your video no other video made it simple n easy.
Great to hear!
Thank you very much for taking the time to document this task ,this would have cost a fortune if the dealer had to do it and just some advise for anyone attempting to do this I was able to skip the manual adjusting of the actuator by plugging the new actuator into the harness and using the infotainment screen adjust the new actuator to the vent position from there it was smooth sailing
Burn 1327: awesome job on the video. I bought the right angle tool and removed actuator but kept it plugged in. I then changed the settings on the dashboard and the actuator gear wheel moved to different positions on its own. I removed the center bezel and stuck a prybar inside the vent and it was really hard to move the damper. I sprayed white lithium grease in the pivot points and again with the pry bar, then moving much easier. Re-installed the same actuator and working fine. Thanks for the video.
Awesome man! Glad you fixed it.
Just replaced mine on a 2016 explorer. Same part number. Thank you for the video. I did not use the dewalt flex 90. A 1/4" long extension with a 1/4" swivel at the end worked just fine on all 3 screws. To put the screws back, I taped the screw to the 5/16" socket with masking tape.
Just did this! I watched the video prior and was able to get it done in 45 minutes with a wobble and a few extensions. Great video with lots of good stuff, thanks.
SIRRRRRR!!! You are a lifesaver!! I had never done any work on my car and was a bit intimidated to say the least. Your video was amazing, all your tips and pointers were so unbelievably helpful I cannot thank you enough! Getting the actuator gear lined up was the hardest part, and losing screws but man I got it all installed and back together with all the vent options now working! Even my husband was like damn ok first time mechanic!! Could not have done it without this THANK YOU!!
Did u get the part at autozone ?
@@danielorozco5845 Amazon actually for both the actuator and the extendor!
Brilliant Burn! Just took me 1 1/2 hours to complete. I used a 12" Craftsmen extension and a quarter coupler. A head light is really helpful. Couple of procedural comments 1) Start w/ 3 - 7mm screws below steering wheel first and work your way to metal bracket then proceed to instrument panel. This is important in separating bottom plastic panel under steering wheel and top plastic panel (with clips) that trims out instrument cluster. Careful with the clips behind steering wheel so as to not break. 2) Remove electrical connector to actuator once it's dropped down 3) Hot melt glue is a good idea, as commented by another tuber, when starting screws back into holes - head light really helpful here. Burn, you're the Man!
Thanks for the video! Although it was a bit on the long side, really helpful for showing the access to the motor. Took me just under an hour... it was actually 1:01, but that includes time to get the magnifying glass out so I could read the part number on the socket I used so I could share it with y'all (see below). I have to say, I spent 12 years as a technician at a Ford dealership, which was helpful; however I left 15 years ago, so never did this job before. I also have small hands which is extremely helpful. For the top two bolts I used a swivel socket (Snap-on part # TMUSAM8 - $50) and a 15" extension. Snap-on tools are not cheap, but I already had the socket from back in the day, so it cost me nothing. For the bottom bolt I just used a regular 8 mm socket and a 3" or 4" extension. No drill needed for the actuator bolts, although it will make the job go faster if you use one for the trim bolts.
As far as the engineering goes, don't complain. There are some model Fords that you MUST pull the dash to replace the blend door actuator. They don't build cars with the convenience of repairs as the first priority. Moreover, in the early 2000's the blend door itself would break on some models and you would have to replace the whole plenum assembly... meaning R&R the dash, replace plenum, incl discharge and recharge the A/C system... that was an all-day job at the dealership with all the right tools.
Another tip for keeping a screw/bolt from falling off a socket: pack a little Vaseline in the socket and then put the screw into the socket (don't laugh, it works). It works well on small screws, not so much big stuff. BTW, wasn't necessary for this job, as I was able to start all three screws by hand because I have small hands.
“Thank you” for your informative video, today I replaced the vent actuator on my 2015 Ford Explorer with some help of my awesome neighbor.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to document the process. I plan on fixing wife's car this weekend and this will help immensely.
Ford should be ashamed of themselves for this design. This was obviously thought up by a design engineer who's never had to actually get his hands dirty working on things like this.
My Explorer actuator stopped working when the weather was a wonderful -21 Monday in Kansas. Wanted to thank you for the time you spent making the video. Replaced the part last night, wish I was a bit skinner to work under the dash. THANKS AGAIN
Wow that's cold! Hope you got it fixed
Awesome video! Definitely saved me a ton of money. I'm not as flexible as I used to be. Getting underneath the steering wheel was a challenge. I ended up getting the ottoman out of the house and some pillows for the floor mat area. That was a game changer for me. It made everything so much easier.
This video was extremely helpful!! I just finished using this video to replace mine. It took me 2.5 hours to do the job. I used Dorman part# 604-622 from autozone and it fixed my issue on my 2014 Ford explorer. Thank you for this very detailed video !!
OMG YOU ARE THE MAN!!! This video saved me a LOT of money and a LOT of time!!! Ford sold me a YH-1779 but it was the wrong one. That one is for the fresh air/recirc actuator. Burn_1327 is correct. The driver side (defrost/vent/floor actuator) is part #YH-1769. So glad I didn't have to take apart the dash. I cant thank you enough for this video. Don't forget you need to have the cluster plugged in for it to work. Also, the easiest way I found to get the teeth lined up was to place the actuator up against where it goes in and while pressing it lightly to the opening, turn on the car and wait till she slides in. The actuator will rotate when you turn on the car. Once the teeth line up it slides on super easy.
Another big thank you for your video. Knocked this out in about 90 minutes (including children interruptions) on our 2016 Explorer Sport. To those attempting this: ensure your screws for the actuator are secured in the socket. If they drop, they go into the abyss that is the center console area. Luckily I found the one I dropped between the chassis and the carpet. Best of luck to all who attempt this!
Did u get the part at autozone
@@danielorozco5845 My local Ford dealer had one in stock.
It works! Thank you for posting this. Took about 3 hours and the right angle drive is the key. That and a bit of contortion…
As far as clocking the gear, I marked the old motor with paint and then put a corresponding mark on the new motor and shaft. I plugged it in to the harness loosely and turned on the climate control. As it cycled I pulled the plug just as it hit the mark and was then aligned to the old one. You then have to pull the fuse #46 otherwise when you plug it back in it looks to reset position. Once installed you can put the fuse back in and you’re good to go. Part was $41 from the dealer.
As with everyone else here, thank you for your video. Did the whole thing in about an hour and a half on a 2016 Explorer. I used the 90 bit to get the bottom one reaching from underneath. I could use a long screwdriver to turn the vent selector to line the new part up. Thanks again! Cheers!
Amazing videos!!!!! Thank you soooo much. Just did my 2016 limited. One tip, you could move the white wheel where the actuator goes using a flat head screw driver to align the key of the new actuator with the hole to make it easy to install.
Do you know if the white wheel should be fairly free when turning? I took the old apart to use it to make adjustments. I can't budge it.
Great video. Gave me all the information needed to attempt this job. Watched this several times before attempting and had to fall back on it during the job. 100% you have to put your mindset (I am VERY impatient) to have patience and stay calm to get this one done. It's going to be a bit, but will be 100% worth it. Found a Motorcraft replacement (hoping its not a knockoff) on Amazon for $41. Found the suggested tool, non-dewalt brand, for $15. The toughest part of this job is removing and reinstalling the actuator. Those damm three screws will be a bugger. Stay pro-active and it'll work.
When I installed the new actuator, as others have posted, I got the actuator in position (had the front top screw started, by lucky easily) and held in place while changing the settings on the dash mode positions and until I felt the actuator slip into place. After that I got the lower screw into place and tightened and then tested the install. It worked! Fought a bit with the top back screw way too long but got it done. Reinstalling the cluster, lower dash panel and steering column shrouds were joyful at that point.
Patience, Patience, Patience. It will be worth it. My overall all time, which included replacing the battery on our 2016 Explorer was 4.5 hours. I hoped it'd of gone quicker, but overall I am pretty stoked on the entire job. Happily sitting here with a celebratory cocktail. I lied.... cocktails.
Glad all prior posters got the job done and will say to any new attempters..... if you have the tools to do so and can keep the mindset of staying calm and expecting to go through some hurdles.... you can do this.
This video is the tops, there is one more out there that also gave me a little insight but this guy is my hero. You ever come to S.E. Wisconsin let me know!! Round of drinks on me. I'll drive, now with a windshield defroster that works!
THANK YOU for making this video!!!! I just replaced the vent selection actuator on my 2015 Explorer. I can't even tell you how much this video helped me get this done. I read a lot of the comments, and followed some suggestions from others. I used hot glue to hold the screws in the socket for replacement, and used a 9 volt battery to turn the gear on the new actuator so it would line up correctly, both worked GREAT. I was able to get to the top, rear, screw by using a couple of 6 inch extensions and a swivel. Thanks again for this very thorough video.
THANK YOU! At some point this winter the heat in my 2015 Ford FLEX Limited got stuck on defrost only. It wouldn't change to vents or floor etc. After some research, I came across this video. Thank you for posting such a detailed and helpful resource. Upon looking under my dash.
It was plain to see it was essentially the same
As what you show here. So, I thought I knew What I was getting into. Until I got started… I instantly realized the trim panels are quite different. I had to take off quite a lot more trim to get to that instrument cluster. Not to mention I’m pretty sure things were tighter and less visible in mine.
I did not invest in the Dewalt tool. Instead, I just used long extensions and a jointed swivel socket adapter. That thing might've help for sure. But I got the job done.
It took longer than I figured. However, I took my time and cleaned up all the trim panels before I put it all back together. Whew 😥
My ribs are definitely bruised and I have a few nicks and cuts on my hands. But I did it with your help thank you so much! 🛠
P.S. Regarding lining up the gear. As soon as I took the old actuator out, it started spinning. That would’ve led me to believe it was not broken! However I had previously watched another video of the same repair. He uninstalled his and reinstalled the same one because when it spun he assumed it was not broken. So, I just plugged the new one in.
It started spinning and I held it in place until the gear lined up and I just pushed it in flush. Then the motor stopped spinning.
Then I just had to struggle to reinstall the three screws.
This was awesome, thank you! Some additional tips. I think you can use a u-joint instead of the flex head. Also you don’t need to crack the actuator. Just position it close and turn on your ignition. Put a little pressure on it while it turns and it’ll pop in place when aligned. I had to plug in the gauges to get the climate control to turn on.
I just used your video to replace the "Heater Blend Door Actuator" or "Heater Blend Door Lever" (depending on the manufacturer) in my 2013 Ford Explorer Limited. Our setup was a little different (a few extra connectors, a few more things in the way), but following your steps allowed my dad and I pull this off flawlessly. Thank you so much for posting this video; you just saved me $600-$800!
Glad I could help 👍
Success! Dealer quoted me $500-$1,200 this morning and said they would need to take the whole dash off. Thanks to your video, I was able to do the repair in about two hours. Hardest part for me was reconnecting the wiring harness and inserting that red clip back in. I actually had to remove the new actuator after I installed it in order to get it plugged back in. Thank you so much for posting this. I wouldn't have figured it out myself!
Awesome! Glad I was able to save you some money!
Great great video. I just finished my 2016 Explore. I would recommend taking the lower panels off first and put on last when restoring. Any screw dropped from the instrument cluster or doing the actuator has a chance of making it to the floor. I hooked up the new actuator to power and let it rotate to match the keyway of the failed actuator. It was close, but I still had to hold in place, power on, cycle through the vent modes until it aligned and popped into place. I have long arms and was barely able, would be easier with two people. If you put a small super magnet of the socket adapter shaft it should hold the screw in the socket. I did use an after market actuator from Advance auto. Advance said it had a lifetime warranty. All I would need to do is bring it in :-( ....Thanks again for the great video.
I must say,, u r THE MAN for showing people how to fix this step by step By step even after getting it all done. OUT OF NOWHERE Mine just blows from the front vents no more floors or defroster. I'm no mechanic.lol but I'm going to try once i get the parts i dont have that touch screen just the basic control buttons so I hope this still works cuz I can't find any other good and detailed vids like this. So hope I can follow ur steps and will update when I get it fixed .
Awesome job recording this fix. Save big bucks thanks to your help!! Everything went as shown, did spend sometime getting new part lined up to slide in. That 90 degree angle was the ticket. Can’t thank you enough. The guy at the parts shop did’t think I would get it done, thanks to you I have a working A/C system.
THANK YOU!! I was able to do this thanks to you. One thing I would suggest is to move your steering wheel all the way out (I think) because the screw that moves it was in my way. And moves the brake pedals all the way in. Also using the gear from the old actuator is key to align the doors to get the new one installed. I removed/installed the screws with a long extension (harbor freight) and a wobble socket. Also Wes Baton's video said to watch your video, so shout out to him.
This video was very helpful. I got it swapped right before a Colorado snow storm so my wife could use the defrost again. It took me about an hour for the repair. We ended up trading the Explorer in the next day lol. Nice video!!!
Thanks! followed this video on my 2015 explorer and was done in under 3 hours. only thing i did different was i didnt break open the old one. instead, i held the new one and old one side by side and plugged in the new one. As it spun i unplugged it at the same position to match the old one
Hit my actuator with a screw driver and it switched to the correct vent. These actuators have narrow metal contact points and I think that mine timed out in a bad spot and wouldn't work electronically. I took the plastic panel off to get to the inside fuse panel and looked up at the actuator and tried it with the car running and heat on. Took 4 taps from the screwdriver then I heard it change settings.
@@DaleSeim I tried the same thing. Unfortunately mine only worked for a few days after so I decided to replace it. Hope yours stays permanently fixed 👍
Followed your instructions and got the job done in less than 3 hours. Part of the time was finding the socket and two screws I dropped in the area behind the center console covers. After getting the main three screws out and removed the bad part, I thought there is no way I'm getting those screws back in. It was easier to put them in than get them out.
Thank you for this video, it was perfect.
Glad I could help 👍
Thanks for the video! I was able to do the major part in under an hour but that last screw is kicking my butt!!!! Still saved me a ton of money with this video.
You sir, are a hero. Did this today on my 2015 XLT. Had some interruptions and took my time Overall it took about 6 hours. Used the DeWalt extension and didn't end up with any extra screws. Finally decided to hold the new actuator in place and let it run till it slid into place. That was only after trying a couple other methods I read in these comments - hence the 6 hours. There was a wire harness in the way of that top back screw, but I was able to pull the clip and that made the difference I needed. Only thing I wish I did was put the red clip in before everything I listed above. I wasn't able to get it in after installing the actuator and then I lost it. Couldn't find it anywhere. But it fell out as I was hitting the clips into place under the steering column! I'll deal with that another time. Few clips and 4 screws, maybe in the warmer weather and better light I'll be able to clip it in.
Thank you so much for this video. The job went just as you said it would, took me 3 hours (I had a flexible drill attachment but not one with a 90 degree head, that would have made it much quicker). Your documentation of the job is much appreciated!
Glad I could help 👍
Thanks for making this video! Saved myself a ton of time, and repaired it in about 90 mins. The procedure shown was spot on. Advice for other viewers: the 90 degree attachment isn't 100% necessary as a swivel attachment will get the job done. I used three 1/4 extensions, swivel and socket to get to the top 2 screws. It wasn't easy, but it did the job. I'd also recommend a pair of long reach plier to help you hold the replacement unit in position while you try to insert it into the notched holes.
👌👌👍👍👍
absolutely amazing video, highly descriptive and accurate, what would've been a 6-10 hour job was completed in a little under 2 hours thanks to you. thanks for your help even 4 years later.
what I ended up doing was holding the actuator in place and plugged in the dash and had wife select the vent mode and it popped right in place.
Great video thanks for the all the info.
Also i used a piece of electrical tape poked a hole in it and taped to socket.
That's some good thinking 👍
Great video Burn, I helped my brother in-law do this yesterday. 2-1/2 hours start to finish. We had the Dewalt tool but we just used a 1/4 " ratchet with it, not the screw gun. Seemed to fit a little easier. Thanks again !
Awesome! Glad it helped you guys out.
Nice job!! No annoying music, had it already apart so we didnt have to watch that! Nice job making your own tool out of the old part, genius!
Thank you very much, man. I just use this video and it helped me out a lot. I'm sure it would have been a pain i* t** a** to do it without this video
And yet again, another thankful person for this video. Just finished completing it on my 2015 Explorer in 2hrs. The 90 degree drill flex extension is an absolute must!! Thanks!
Thank you SO much for making this video! My wife’s 2015 XLT got stuck on defrost mode on Sunday. I found your video, ordered the part, it came in Friday and I was able to use your video to get it changed. Saved us probably $1000-1500. Again, I can’t thank you enough!
Hardest part was the back bolt. I made it more difficult than it should’ve been, though, because I was using a socket bit adapter on the 90 degree tool with the 5/16 socket and I simply couldn’t get it on the bolt with a harness in the way. I figured that something that fit the tool but was shorter was what I needed. I grabbed a 5/16 impact driver socket that fit into the 90 degree tool and it gave me an extra inch to work with and that’s all I needed. If I had used that to begin with it would’ve saved me a lot of time.
Glad I could help 👍
Great video!! So helpful and much easier on the pocket!! Just finished my replacement on my 2015 Explorer in two hours with this informative video and tutorial. Got my part from Ford dealer in Texas, was now $46.01 and I got my deWalt angle extension from Lowes. Thank you for posting and helping us all out!!
What’s is the part called or how can I find it
Great video! Thank you the clear and easy to follow instructions! It took me 3.5 hrs on my 2017 explorer.
Great to hear!
Thanks so much! Took me 40 min to complete the job! Supper simple
You must be super lucky or incredibly skilled to get the 3 screws holding the actuator in and out so fast in addition to removing and reinstalling the car parts blocking the actuator!
Burn - you are the man! The 90degree tool worked a charm and there is no way to do it without this tool or removing much more of the dash.
Thank you for your detailed tutorial - I was able to get it replaced in about an hour thanks to watching your video first.
I was lucky my actuator died in the natural place of the new one so I was able to skip the step of turning the gear. The default place is the top vents by the way.
Wow, and hour is pretty good!
Great instructor. Worked.
You can also do it easily with a 1/4 drive 8mm socked and a universal, or a 1/4 drive 8 mm flex socket. 1/4 spring flex extensions in a few lengths help too.
To install, you don't need to line up the splines. Plug in the dash plug and actuator plug, turn the car on, and have someone run they the air vent switch while you very gently push the actuator into place. The splines will line up and it will slip on. Careful because when you turn the car off it will slip back off.
The original video missed the elec plug for the instrument box trim panel.
To hold a screw in a socket, screw it into the adhesive side of a piece of masking tape and then tape it to the socket. When the screw takes, the tape easily pulls off with the socket.
Always tape sockets and extensions together.
It's possible to drop sockets and screws into a hole above the floor duct. You can barely feel it. Stuff in a piece of duct tape, then fish out the tape with a fish hook, line and wire. The socket can come out with the tape. Worked for me after a few hours. Or try a magnetic retriever. Or cover before starting the work- the smart way. Most screws dropped go right to the floorboard.
Thank you so much for putting this out. Your instructions were flawless. Took me a little over 2 hours and would have been quicker if I had not been extremely deliberate keeping tools and screws organized. Very well done!