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Thanks for this! I need to dig into this, and you just straighten the learning curve. I can't believe this hasn't come as a recall with as many people trying to fix this issue. Thanks!

Great video, I'm wondering though could you plug in the new unit then hit the button for whatever vent position you are stuck in? Shouldn't that align everything then you can screw the new part into place.

Great video, helped with my 2017 explorer

Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.

Hit my actuator with a screw driver and it switched to the correct vent. These actuators have narrow metal contact points and I think that mine timed out in a bad spot and wouldn't work electronically. I took the plastic panel off to get to the inside fuse panel and looked up at the actuator and tried it with the car running and heat on. Took 4 taps from the screwdriver then I heard it change settings.

Thanks this video is a life saver

I have a 2015 ford explorer limited and the main vents are not working only ones working is the side little vents blow on the side windows and front window

Great video! Thank you the clear and easy to follow instructions! It took me 3.5 hrs on my 2017 explorer.

I just want to thank you again for your video and hard work putting this together for like-minded and suffering Ford Explorer owners nationwide. I followed your video and replaced the actuator today in my 2017 Ford Explorer and it worked after restarting the car. It took me 4 hours because I lost two 8 mm sockets that fell off of my right angle drill extender and I did try to find them. Also, I had some trouble putting back the top screw on the far side basically because there were big bundles of wire blocking the access to the device. But it still was well worth it and I have the right angle tool now plus I saved a lot of money and have the satisfaction of doing it well. I just hope the two sockets that I lost don't get into my brake mechanism, that would be a trip. Anyway thanks again.

This is my first and probably my last Ford vehicle. Four recalls, a dead alternator at 67000 miles and all along a failed vent actuator. I'm ready to call Ford and ask what's next. Thank you Good Samaritan for helping out in this otherwise messed up job.

Thanks man. You saved me hours!

This video helped my husband swap my actuator out. I don’t usually comment on videos but I came here to tell people that if they experience issues with starting their car afterwards because the car doesn’t sense the brake is being pushed, to check their brake switch. Somehow while my husband was switching the actuator, the brake switch became dislodged and was just hanging there. It took longer than it should have for us to find this mainly because we didn’t know it had become dislodged and it took watching many other RUclips videos and phoning a friend to find it. It’s blue and white and runs right by the brake pedal arm so after you’re done, make sure it’s still plugged in. We loved how descript this video was in telling us what tools we needed and what part to get ahead of time.

So far, I think it's the best step by step method. Thank. You for sharing. Now, I am just not sure if I am replacing the right actulator for my problem with cold air coming out on the passenger side when the heat is on.

Do they use shimano 4 piston pads?

Awesome video! Definitely saved me a ton of money. I'm not as flexible as I used to be. Getting underneath the steering wheel was a challenge. I ended up getting the ottoman out of the house and some pillows for the floor mat area. That was a game changer for me. It made everything so much easier.

Damn best review i seen have 2016 explorer with no air comming out of panel vents.

Thanks man save a lot t of money

Get a little strong circle magnet and stick to the side of the tool. Helps keep the screws held

replaced mode actuator on 2015 PUI. lots of extra wires under there .. be careful as i didnt install same day as i took out problem unit. when putting back together, jack which goes to dash housing is same size as actuator jack and so easy to plug in and play around with since it has long cable.. use wrong jack get no result other than it somehow switched from front only to defrost only. upon giving up and putting dash back together found extra jack cable not long enough to reach dash, put 2 and 2 together swapped to correct and bingo.. i have full climate control again.. thanks

I’ll be ordering mine Friday. Got 2 sets in my cart. Just waiting for payday and figure out if I want black or silver. (Lh4)

Everyone who used this video to replace this actuator should really send this guy 50 bucks. Excellent video my man.

I have an explorer 2010 with this problem .... what is the name of the part please. Tks

Omg. This video is a life saver. Took me 3 hours and that's only because my bits weren't magnetic so I lost one in the dash and had to go get another. And because my actuator came in assembled incorrectly so I had to carefully take it apart, fix the alignment, then reassemble. After I did that, it took just 15 minutes to install and screw it back in. Thank you so much for this video!

...I figured it out and bought the sockets that fit...thanks again

these any good then?

Great video...I'm getting ready to go in and change that part...I have a 2012. Question on the Dewalt tool, it appears its designed for drill bits, how do you attach a 7mm or 5/16 socket to it?

Okay so I just finished exchanging out the servo. I’m not one to normally take my car apart and fix much unless it’s VERY easy. Somehow the thought of spending $1200 to replace this part got me motivated enough to try. Along with your video I felt confident I could do it. There were times that I needed to step back, take a breath and start again. Mostly the upper back screw. It took me well over an hour just trying to get it back in. After about 3 hours I finished the project and it worked. Time for a well deserved beer. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for the great video. Been working on these things for many many years and your video is superb. Very detailed video! Your tips tools and tricks were top notch advice. Not much out there on mode door actuator replacement. Thanks again I appreciate it

Will this work on a Ford Fusion 2012?

Great video,I will save alot of money thanks for posting.

Probably the only issue for me with these brakes is that they are not ambidextrous like Sram. I have some demo bikes and like to swap levers over from time to time to suit the riders needs. Also having one spare lever in stock means that if one comes back broken , I don't have to have a spare L/H and R/H lever.

Definitely a finesse job I opened up the new actuator n set the gear just like the old 1 and I got all 3 bolts without that special tool hate to see what warranty pays the tech at a dealership

Noooo, this doesn't apply to a 2010 Explorer? Does anyone else know if you can get to the vent actuator this way for a 2010 as well, or if you have to go through the dash?

Thanks for the video! Was able to get to all 3 bolts with a long 1/4 in extension and an 8mm swivel socket.

First iff, sincerely thank you for this video. Fantastic instructions. If it helps anybody else, I am finishing this on a Ford Flex. I had to remove the small piece of trim approx 1.5"x4" to the left of the steering wheel (gently pries out). Also I had to remove the long trim piece on the right the same way to get to 2 7mm screws for the console trim. (I just popped a few tabs on this one and didn't actually remove it entirely). I also had to use my dremel and trim the plastic vent hose behind the instrument cluster to gain access to the 3 bolts that hold in the controller. I don't see how the repair could have been done without trimming the plastic vent pipe. This repair was a major pain- I'll be all in about 3 hours.

I’m watching this for a 2010 Lincoln mks. Probably different but the same 😂

are the brake pads compatible with shimano pads?

when you order your Trickstuff brakes from temu/alibabah ewen logo is stolen from another brand it is just like abibas or bolex for those who can't afford originals but good enough for tiktards and electric mopeds

What altertive olive and bart can i use for the lht?

great job

My 2015 Explorer Sport had 56K miles when I did this job, however it had unknowingly failed long before that. My Sport instrument bezel had another electrical clip which was easy to pull. After the column lower metal shroud was removed I had a plastic 'toe-kick' trim which came off, too. The actuator's bottom screw used 3"+6" extensions + flex head to get to it. I've got the forearm scratches to attest. The new actuator was monetarily plugged in prior to mounting and advanced to the same position on the old removed one. I used electrical tape to hold the screws into the socket. What a pain! Roughly 3-hours total. All in all an excellent video. Many thanks to you and for other viewers' comments.

How to buy

Thank you!

How did you adapt the 90* tool with 8mm socket?

Thank you so much for this video, mine went out yesterday and I was able to do it myself with the help of your video! It was a pain to do but well worth it, thanks again!

I just finished this! With watching your amazing video and some messing around I got this job done in just about 2 hours! The tool was definitely needed and was definitely easier from the bottom for the lower and back screw. Thank you a million times! I would pick up the tab after a long night at the bar for this guy! Thanks man!

Bruh thanks for this post mines been stuck for a few weeks gonna do this tomorrow. Respect

A pointer in aligning the gear!!! Plug the actuator back in and turn your car and ac on and should line itself up! Any pointers to help with this tedious job. I wish I saw this before doing this job! Took me 3 hours just to get it out. Saw this video and went straight to Menards and used your method and saved me a lot of time and struggle.

About to tackle this, I can get A\C through the defrost vent and slightly through the floor, never through the dash. I hope this works.

Just wanted to take a minute and say thank you for this video! You saved my family big time money. I got the tools you recommend, bought the part on RockAuto, and followed step by step. Was able to complete the job in 1.5 hrs on my 2016 XLT 3.5L because of your documentation, THANK YOU!