This tutorial worked great for fixing the mode actuator in my 2016 ford fusion SE! Saved me at least $350 quoted from Ford Dealership in Ohio since I already had the part to replace it with. I did find a 1/4 ratchet useful and it did have 1 odd screw style under steering column plastic to get it off that I didn't expect, kind of star shaped, different from phillips. Total Job took 2ish hours. the upper screw on mode actuator is what took me the longest, it needed the ratchet to break loose and was doing it off of touch/feel. Everything was easy to put back together pretty quickly.
This actually worked for me and took about 90 minutes. Hardest part for me was getting the harness connector reconnected. Putting the screws back in wasn't too bad. There was another video where the guy completely took the entire car apart. I saw that and I was getting ready to just pay the Ford dealer. Came across your video and decided to give it a go. Thanks for posting this.
1) I thought the connector was tougher to get off than on 2) I watched about 1/2 of the "other guys" video, and said what the #$%^ is this guy doing. he must be out of his mind.. glad I found this one too.
@@grampymeyer6603 No doubt, Dude completely tore that car apart with his kid. Dude def outta his mind. I was like they aren't getting that back together and if they do I bet the plastic will creak like crazy. I was able to get the connector off with 1 hand easily. Reconnecting it with 1 hand was pretty hard. I couldn't fit both hands in there. I actually went in from the bottom where the steering column was. I think removing the instrument cluster isn't really necessary if you know the location of that actuator. About the only thing it did for me was allow extra light from the top.
@@mattvincelli I wondered if the inst. cluster removal was necessary.. I'll say it was for me 'cause I could look in and see the top rear screw, (and see for sure it was a #2 phillips) and on reassembly, I used the "old" gear / shaft to test and align the damper.. I put white out on the gear such that when it was @ 12 o'clock the damper was aligned to accept the "new" actuator., made installation simpler.
great video just changed my actuator, if you lay on your back, take off the bottom cover of the steering column, pull the knee panel down, get a thumb ratchet with a little Phillips bite, use your left hand and you can reach up their pretty good, laying on your back makes it easier
عمل رائع ومفيد ,,,, قال رسول الله عليه السلام ( خير الناس افودهم للناس ) يعني ان افضل الناس هم من يفيدو الناس ويساعدونهم ,,, وانا استفدت كثيرا من هذا الفيديو ومن شرحك الجميل المبسط الرائع ,,, شكرا سيدي
I did this yesterday. I have done a lot of work on cars through the years, pulled motors ,timing chains, and all matters of repair. This was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done. Be sure to pack your patience and get a small phillips bit "ratchet".
Huuuge shout out to you, KayGan21, for making this video. I think I got lucky as the mode actuator in my 2014 Fusion Hybrid went out after 128k miles. The part failed on me during a roadtrip 3+ hrs away. Luckily my a/c was working but stuck on the floor vents only, so I had some kind of cool air. Bought my new replacement part for $57 online; local dealer quoted me $100 for same Motorcraft part. After finishing the project, I must say I can sort of understand why dealership charges so much to replace the small part. The job is tedious and there is not much room to work with behind the gauges. Removing all the things to get to the mode actuator is fairly straightforward if you follow this guy’s video. Most frustrating part for me was removing the top screw on the mode actuator as it was covered up by a wire loom that was not easy to maneuver with little to no wiggle room. I took advice of some others who removed the 4 long bolts on the upper steering column (along with the 4 torx screws to get to the sensor hidden underneath metal plate) so I could have better room to work with. I did not remove the lower steering column torx bolt behind the brake pedal (I would have, but I could not get my torx driver in the 2in space required). After removing failed mode actuator, I took the selector apart & used the large gear to rotate the hvac into the closest position I could to match the new-motorcraft mode actuator before mounting it into place. With little to no room to work with, I managed to get the actuator screwed into place. Putting the rest of it back together was not too bad. I waited to test my actuator until I had connected wiring for steering column & gauges into place. As soon as I pressed the start button to turn on the car for a test, ALL WAS GOOD. Cool air blew out of the dash vents again! I am no auto mechanic by any means, but I am somewhat capable on most medium level difficulty tasks. This may be one of the more annoying repairs I have done on my Fusion simply due to the fact I cannot shrink myself to the size of AntMan to easily get to the screws on the mode actuator. Overall, glad I tackled it now before summer, cause summers in OK/TX are unbearable without good hvac system. I’ll echo: Do not buy cheap hvac mode actuator; spend the $$ and get the motorcraft part (part YH2022). Remove bolts on steering column; don’t have to take it completely out of car but being able to move it out of the way was only way I could get my hands in to get to the hvac mode actuator. Going to have to get creative on the philips driver you use to remove the mode actuator. I used a combination of snake & various extensions to reach the screws. Good luck to others working up the confidence to knock this job out. You can do it!
Thanks Kay for posting such a detailed step-by-step video, very helpful! After watching several videos and gearing up for it, I had the job done in under an hour thanks to you, and I didn't even have to remove the cluster. ---Some tips for others: For the top screw I used a Philips bit in a socket, then a 1/4" drive universal joint, long extension and screwdriver handle. You can have the handle at 45 degrees down under the dashboard and using the u-joint, loosen and tighten the top screw. It just barely works, was pretty easy. Another tip, I used the old actuator to align the mode door by putting it partially on the shaft and turning the whole unit with my hand like a handle. This will move the door so you can align it to the new actuator's shaft. Another tip, plug in the new actuator first, it will spin to it's rest position, then align the door shaft (if necessary). The connector has a red lock you have to pull on before you can push the locking snap. Thanks again Kay, God bless best wishes and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you so much for doing this video !! I just finished doing mine today on a 2014 Fusion. I will say this repair is a royal pain in the @$$ !! I took my old actuator apart and pulled the main gear and used it to hand rotate the air doors so that the missing slots were in the down position which is what matched where the new one was positioned. Once it id that I was easily able to slide on the new part. Hardest part for me was removing and replacing the 2 mounting screws. I also stuck my cell phone up there and snagged a few pics to confirm I had the alignment slots in position. This vid was a life saver for me and you saved me a ton of $$$$ I didnt have to pay the "STEALERSHIP" Thank you sir !!
You are very welcome. I am glad I could help. You are right, removing and replacing the screws was the hardest part. Sure did save alot of money though.
MUCH RESPECT! Thank you for this amazing tutorial. My 2014 Fusion SE just failed (only 17500 miles!) and I was reading the horror stories about an 8 hour labor charge at the dealer. ($180 hr). I'm 71 years old but I am going to give this a shot.
This was well explained and clearly showed me how to replace this part. I have to note that before going though this process. Try selecting/pairing each vent option to see what it offers you. Example: for my 2015 Fusion Defrost = Main Vent Main Vent = Main Vent Defrost + Main vents = Defrost Foot Vent = Main Vent Foot Vent + Defrost = Foot Vent Just a possibility before you spend the money and the time. Still a great video. After the 50min it took me to change it. I’m just going to leave it in there.
I had the same problem with my 2015. That actuator must be a trash part. No wonder the Ford place charged me almost 500 bucks. After watching this, I’m glad I didn’t try it. Great vid!
Okay so this has been an AWESOME help, I had that exact part go bad, I do want to leave a couple of notes for anyone who is going to do it themselves like we did: 1.) Take the extra time and pull out the 4 bolts and 4 T26 torx screws and drop the steering column. You don't have to detach it, but dropping it makes it LIGHT YEARS easier to get to the part to change it. Be sure and remove the small plate at the top of the steering column with the torx screws to remove the steering position sensor, or you might pull the wires out. When you drop the steering column it makes it to where you can reach the screws more easily. There's a cross-member inside the dash that can make the top screw a little difficult, but it's not too bad as long as you're careful. I promise you, this step will save you loads of trouble (and scraped hands). 2.) When making sure that the actuator has the same alignment as your existing one you get, the easiest way is to GENTLY un clip and pull the top off the actuator with the gear facing down. Just lift the gears out and line them up with where the old one was, then replace them and clip it back together before inserting the new one. The clips are super fragile, but don't require much other than a gentle twist and push of a small flat head screwdriver.
Awesome, Thank you for this video! My Mode actuator died at 120K miles for my 2016 ford fusion. part costed closer to $60 in 2023, thank you inflation. Either way cheaper than the dealership!
BEST video on the net!!! Thanx,.. A friend has a 2105 Fusion.. symptom.. won't go to defrost I told him you get the part we'll take care of it (Mode Damper Actuator) .. Today we tackled it.. 1st I'll say I was leery about un-snaping the (speedo bezel) seemed on the verge of breaking but I got it out, with no breaking.. I have a plastic tool that makes disassembly less scary as it bends and doesn't scratch anything like I fear a screwdriver might. Next: I just couldn't believe they used Philips screws but they did, (there were hex screws on my '02 explorer when I did a similar job.) The only thing I can figure is that is to prevent them from being too tight from the factory.. but reaching and breaking them loose was quite difficult.. Next I have an assembly TIP: I disassembled the old actuator and pulled big gear (shaft) out and used it as an indexer to 1) make sure the damper was free and 2) position the damper so the new actuator went on easily. The new actuator (as found out of the box) was in the 210.2 degree position, I painted white out on the old gear such that when it was @ the same position (210.2 deg) the white out was at 12 o"clock. I positioned the damper, the new actuator slipped right on perfectly with the alignment pin no fuss no muss no problem. Comedy (aka modern technology) When I unplugged the connector for the headlights (to get it bettor out of the way) the headlight chimer chimed?? I got out and looked.. the headlights are ON!! so I disconnected the battery.. That there is some goofy logic
Thanks so much for posting this video. This is the same part that goes bad in the Ford Explorer also. My problem is since Ford knows this part is going to fail, why not put it in an easy to access location. Maybe the goal is to make parts that will fail and put them in horrible locations so service centers will make good money off those afraid to DIY this project. There should be a recall for this part to be replaced by Ford. Then maybe Ford will stop this foolishness.
I'm getting ready to do this today I really appreciate you video it gave me the confidence I needed to tackle it....wish me luck. Update I just did this same fix with the help of your video and it definitely helped. Once I got the old one off I connected the power supply first then seated it into position and screwed it back in. It made it a little easier otherwise you're fighting the angle blind with on hand almost and 3 fingers. I really appreciate your video I was able to follow along step by step and get everything put back together and this fixed my issue and saved so much. I got the part for under 40 at advanced auto parts. Take care and hope this helps others and helps your video get more views
I am having this same issue right now. Mine is stuck on defrost and feet and I was hoping that since we just had a big winter storm heavy ice and snow that maybe it's just cold and got stuck in place because it's in single digits here and I don't have a garage. But I do have heat so I am ok and can wait for warmer weather to change this out. I just wanted to thank you for you video because I much rather spend 40.00 vs. 1,000 just to have it diagnosed
2015 Fusion SE All I did was: - drop the panel below the steering wheel and left it atatched and flapping. - remove the lower steering column housing From there I could see it and had access. Unplug the wire before you remove the part. Mine had a red locking clip that slid completely out. Then, you still have to push the tab to release wire connector. It wasn't too difficult. When it is still statched, you can pull on it. ***Important finding: I used a long, 6 inch or so, flexible screwdriver attachment with with a philip bit on a regular type screwdriver handle to the get the top screw. I could use two hands. One to hold the bit on the screw and the other, from the other side of the steering column, to turn. I was able to partly put the new part on and turn the mode door to the correct alignment (before plugging in the wire). I atatched the wire before screwing in the part.
This is a great video but I just worked on my 2016 ford fusion SE 1.5 L and I followed the exact same steps with one more additional video. Just to realise that actually I messed up wrong actuator which was at the same place this video shows. I was able to fix it right away but I still couldn’t find the mode actuator under dashboard. My biggest learning is first just disconnect the connector and try AC with all functions to make sure you are not messing up the incorrect actuator. Looks like not every model year fusions are the same..
Thank you, this video was great! I had to drop the steering column like the other comment said in order to get at it. I also had to remove a steering heat module + mounting bracket which was in the way.
Looks intimidating but I'm definitely not paying dealer prices. I'd rather pay the $40-$50 for the part get my son out there with me teach him a few swear words & call it a day 😂 thanks for posting.
I have the heated steering wheel option and that module totally blocks access to the mode door actuator. I pulled the steering column and then it wasn't too bad to get the hsw module unbolted and get to the mode door actuator. My dealer would have charged $600 for the repair. I was confused at first by the decoy blend door actuator.
Thank you for the video it was really helpful, just completed this project however I did not take the dashboard cluster out just the bottom of the Dashboard under the steering wheel did it all by feel it was a pain but worked out
May God bless you thanks man so much for the video such a big help man you know what they say RUclips university guy told me $1000 as well you made it look so easy
Went to try this myself i have a Ford fusion energi, it has a heated steering wheel so the module for the steering wheel is mounted on a bracket right infront of the one that needs replaced. 😭 I literally cannot find a way to get my hands back there without disassembling the whole dash. Im wondering if i take the radio unit out if i would be able to reach it?.
Thanks for sharing this video mine's actually just went out I think a week ago i got my Cabin filter change though that was my issue the frost still doesn't work I'm glad I Google this and found you but I have no one to put it in for me so just my luck I have to go to the Dang dealershipIs not happy about it now I am out of money just for the labor I no that part isn't that expensive
Did you end up taking all 3 screws from the bottom? Bc In the video seems like you were going to take the 2 from the top, then u switched to the bottom view saying “this is the only way you can get them out?” Kinda got confusing for me
Once you put on the new part, do you have to line anything up at all? Like to make sure that defrost is lined up with the knob for defrost? Or will it auto align on it own? I’d hate to install this and my main knob controls my feet. Feet knob controls defrost, etc
I see two actuators on the driver's side. One by the brake pedal arm and one upper. I believe the problem shown on this video is for the upper. My issue is that the driver's side only blows cold and the passenger side works normally,
Hi sir thanks for your video, I’m hoping you can help me out.. I’ve replaced the blend mode actuator on my 2016 fusion. I’ve confirmed that I put the right part in (yh-2022) and my car is still stuck on defrost. I’ve reset the climate control via disconnecting the battery, resetting the fuse and another reset method I found online which is press the power and defrost button at same time. Still no luck. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be ?
i think this is my problem, its stuck on defrost. however it blows cold no matter what temp i set as well. could it be the mode actuator is also stuck on sucking in cold air or something.
I have the same problem, i have plenty of air coming out of the vents only. The windshield and the floor doesn't work. you think it can be the same part?
I would say it is your mode actuator. Remember there is a difference in the actuators. The blend actuator controls hot and cold air only, not the blowing of the air. Some cars have more than 1 actuator, do your homework and see if you can pinpoint where your actuator is. Good luck!
Got every part out. But the only thing that is troubling me is the screws. Got the bottom one out, but the one across it on top it’s a mission. My screw is tight on, the screw driver I used can’t fit up top and I tired using a head of a screwdriver and that didn’t work too. Need a screwdriver with a small enough handle to fit up there.
Where did you find that screw driver? I ended up welding a thumb screw onto a phillips head to make my own. It didn't fix the problem, but I think I may have to pull it apart and align the gears.
It was hard to remove the tab. Pull hard with a fingernail or tip of screwdriver. I broke my red tab, but no worries. It connects tight and will not fall out.
Do you have a link to the part or a part number, I have the same issue on my 2016 Ford Fusion but I'm unable to find a diagram or the correct part, I keep getting the HVAC Blender which is not what I need.
The info is: MotorCraft YH2022, part # is GS7Z 19E61A. Some of the actuators may have the same part #. All the actuator basically does is open and close the vent doors. If you can get yours out, it will have all the info on it. Thanks for watching. Good luck!
Two hours later I still can’t get close to reaching the screws to take out the bad actuator. I feel like this video is missing a lot at 12:27. Anyone want to help me finish this? I’ll pay you $180
You mention the actuator was “in a position that the dial wouldn’t turn”. Was the actuator actually defective or maybe the dials just “unable to rotate”? Did you attempt to run the defrost when the dials were able to rotate freely? Thank you.
The actuator actually would not change from heat to defrost at all. It worked fine for about 3 years. Once I had it out, I had it working . After I put it back in, it stopped working within 2 days.
You should be able to do it in less than 2 hours as long as you don't have too much trouble with disconnecting the actuator and removing the screws that hold the actuator in place.
My 2015 only blows from defrost. Front vents don’t blow at all. Gets hot and cold so I probably have the same problem. I will be trying to fix it myself. Not wanting to spend $500+ to have someone do it.
HEATED STEERING WHEEL WARNING: Don't bother with this if you have a heated steering wheel, you (and i) are going to have to go the long way. The "module" for the heated steering wheel sets right in the way of accessing the actuator. Also to note that my light switch (and trunk release) assembly had screws holding the bottom portion on - the panel was still able to be pried loose from the top, simply not entirely separated from the dash. Doubt it is necessary to remove those thinking back on all the fun i have had trying to accomplish this so far, but just don't try to force the whole thing off without checking first... The next day... I learned from ruclips.net/video/t8t7EFNs5vg/видео.html (worthwhile watching the first part that is here - ruclips.net/video/Cobp7Zeag40/видео.html) that instead of removing the dashboard (which is an incredibly larger job than any of you will imagine - if you don't already know what is necessary on this idiot piece of "engineering", you have to remove the doors and it comes out as one single huge assembly) - a variation that worked for me is what is shown in this video AND removing the steering column, which is so much easier than i thought (WARNING: there is one little electrical connector you will see cited in the other "Conclusion" video that WILL break from the simple shifting of the column when unbolting. Do NOT fully unbolt - loosening is OK to give a couple inches of movement, but don't press your luck unless you have some Super Glue handy - until you have either disconnected it or opened the top cover and removed the sensor that is attached thereto!!!). The Heated Steering Wheel Module was still a bitch, but now i could get at what held it in place. It might be possible to do so without taking out the steering column, but i had no clue as to how to attempt. The internal gear was not aligned to how the gear protruding from the replacement actuator was, so i took a hint from one of these three videos and inserted the gear partially then twisted the actuator box into bolt alignment. This had me rather nervous that i might have messed it all up, but the light shined on me and once that i had everything back together, the dang thing actually worked! The entire job took me three hours. As to embarrassments, in my half-blind fumbling around, when the old actuator wouldn't first release after removing the two screws, i felt around and found one more screw and despite great trouble with the steel that goes down to the brake pedal, removed it. Then i looked at everything and found that screw had nothing to do with the actuator. I just needed to wiggle the actuator to get it off. The other was once i got everything put back together and the moment of truth, i turned the key. Nothing. Now i was panicking. I tried to start it a couple more times when i realized this was a damn electric hybrid and it was "ready to drive". I'm getting old.
I'm here because heat will only blow out of the dash vents and not the floor or defrost on my 2016 Fusion and it's negative temps now. Absolutely absurd problem.
I would say no. This sounds like the "blend actuator. It will be in a different area. Mode actuator controls air flow thru different vents. The blend actuator controls hot and cold air. Does air come out? You just cant control the temperature? Can you change air flow from defrost to floor to body vents? If you can change the air flow but not the temperature of the air, it is the blend actuator. Hope this helps.
I have a 2015 fusion A thousand times easier to do it with dropping the steering wheel. The hardest part is the top philips screw on the actuator I had to use just a small bit and my finger tips .
why tear it all apart if u cant access from the Top anyways...? : If SOMEBODY has an easier way to Get To this frig'n PO.S. sure would be nice! ; Ford plastics & parts are CRAP & they should be forced to fix this kind of stuff for their customers....... it's THEIR faulty crap parts that keep going out!!! should be Recalled & fixed!!!
This tutorial worked great for fixing the mode actuator in my 2016 ford fusion SE! Saved me at least $350 quoted from Ford Dealership in Ohio since I already had the part to replace it with. I did find a 1/4 ratchet useful and it did have 1 odd screw style under steering column plastic to get it off that I didn't expect, kind of star shaped, different from phillips. Total Job took 2ish hours. the upper screw on mode actuator is what took me the longest, it needed the ratchet to break loose and was doing it off of touch/feel. Everything was easy to put back together pretty quickly.
This actually worked for me and took about 90 minutes. Hardest part for me was getting the harness connector reconnected. Putting the screws back in wasn't too bad. There was another video where the guy completely took the entire car apart. I saw that and I was getting ready to just pay the Ford dealer. Came across your video and decided to give it a go. Thanks for posting this.
I am glad that I could help you out. Thanks for watching.
You are right, that connector was a bear!
1) I thought the connector was tougher to get off than on
2) I watched about 1/2 of the "other guys" video, and said what the #$%^ is this guy doing. he must be out of his mind.. glad I found this one too.
@@grampymeyer6603 No doubt, Dude completely tore that car apart with his kid. Dude def outta his mind. I was like they aren't getting that back together and if they do I bet the plastic will creak like crazy. I was able to get the connector off with 1 hand easily. Reconnecting it with 1 hand was pretty hard. I couldn't fit both hands in there. I actually went in from the bottom where the steering column was. I think removing the instrument cluster isn't really necessary if you know the location of that actuator. About the only thing it did for me was allow extra light from the top.
@@mattvincelli I wondered if the inst. cluster removal was necessary.. I'll say it was for me 'cause I could look in and see the top rear screw, (and see for sure it was a #2 phillips) and on reassembly, I used the "old" gear / shaft to test and align the damper.. I put white out on the gear such that when it was @ 12 o'clock the damper was aligned to accept the "new" actuator., made installation simpler.
great video just changed my actuator, if you lay on your back, take off the bottom cover of the steering column, pull the knee panel down, get a thumb ratchet with a little Phillips bite, use your left hand and you can reach up their pretty good, laying on your back makes it easier
عمل رائع ومفيد ,,,, قال رسول الله عليه السلام ( خير الناس افودهم للناس ) يعني ان افضل الناس هم من يفيدو الناس ويساعدونهم ,,, وانا استفدت كثيرا من هذا الفيديو ومن شرحك الجميل المبسط الرائع ,,, شكرا سيدي
I did this yesterday. I have done a lot of work on cars through the years, pulled motors ,timing chains, and all matters of repair. This was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done. Be sure to pack your patience and get a small phillips bit "ratchet".
Huuuge shout out to you, KayGan21, for making this video. I think I got lucky as the mode actuator in my 2014 Fusion Hybrid went out after 128k miles. The part failed on me during a roadtrip 3+ hrs away. Luckily my a/c was working but stuck on the floor vents only, so I had some kind of cool air.
Bought my new replacement part for $57 online; local dealer quoted me $100 for same Motorcraft part. After finishing the project, I must say I can sort of understand why dealership charges so much to replace the small part. The job is tedious and there is not much room to work with behind the gauges.
Removing all the things to get to the mode actuator is fairly straightforward if you follow this guy’s video. Most frustrating part for me was removing the top screw on the mode actuator as it was covered up by a wire loom that was not easy to maneuver with little to no wiggle room. I took advice of some others who removed the 4 long bolts on the upper steering column (along with the 4 torx screws to get to the sensor hidden underneath metal plate) so I could have better room to work with. I did not remove the lower steering column torx bolt behind the brake pedal (I would have, but I could not get my torx driver in the 2in space required). After removing failed mode actuator, I took the selector apart & used the large gear to rotate the hvac into the closest position I could to match the new-motorcraft mode actuator before mounting it into place. With little to no room to work with, I managed to get the actuator screwed into place. Putting the rest of it back together was not too bad. I waited to test my actuator until I had connected wiring for steering column & gauges into place. As soon as I pressed the start button to turn on the car for a test, ALL WAS GOOD. Cool air blew out of the dash vents again!
I am no auto mechanic by any means, but I am somewhat capable on most medium level difficulty tasks. This may be one of the more annoying repairs I have done on my Fusion simply due to the fact I cannot shrink myself to the size of AntMan to easily get to the screws on the mode actuator. Overall, glad I tackled it now before summer, cause summers in OK/TX are unbearable without good hvac system.
I’ll echo: Do not buy cheap hvac mode actuator; spend the $$ and get the motorcraft part (part YH2022).
Remove bolts on steering column; don’t have to take it completely out of car but being able to move it out of the way was only way I could get my hands in to get to the hvac mode actuator.
Going to have to get creative on the philips driver you use to remove the mode actuator. I used a combination of snake & various extensions to reach the screws.
Good luck to others working up the confidence to knock this job out. You can do it!
Thanks Kay for posting such a detailed step-by-step video, very helpful! After watching several videos and gearing up for it, I had the job done in under an hour thanks to you, and I didn't even have to remove the cluster. ---Some tips for others: For the top screw I used a Philips bit in a socket, then a 1/4" drive universal joint, long extension and screwdriver handle. You can have the handle at 45 degrees down under the dashboard and using the u-joint, loosen and tighten the top screw. It just barely works, was pretty easy. Another tip, I used the old actuator to align the mode door by putting it partially on the shaft and turning the whole unit with my hand like a handle. This will move the door so you can align it to the new actuator's shaft. Another tip, plug in the new actuator first, it will spin to it's rest position, then align the door shaft (if necessary). The connector has a red lock you have to pull on before you can push the locking snap. Thanks again Kay, God bless best wishes and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you so much for doing this video !! I just finished doing mine today on a 2014 Fusion. I will say this repair is a royal pain in the @$$ !! I took my old actuator apart and pulled the main gear and used it to hand rotate the air doors so that the missing slots were in the down position which is what matched where the new one was positioned. Once it id that I was easily able to slide on the new part. Hardest part for me was removing and replacing the 2 mounting screws. I also stuck my cell phone up there and snagged a few pics to confirm I had the alignment slots in position. This vid was a life saver for me and you saved me a ton of $$$$ I didnt have to pay the "STEALERSHIP" Thank you sir !!
You are very welcome. I am glad I could help. You are right, removing and replacing the screws was the hardest part. Sure did save alot of money though.
MUCH RESPECT! Thank you for this amazing tutorial. My 2014 Fusion SE just failed (only 17500 miles!) and I was reading the horror stories about an 8 hour labor charge at the dealer. ($180 hr). I'm 71 years old but I am going to give this a shot.
How was it
How was it?
This was well explained and clearly showed me how to replace this part.
I have to note that before going though this process. Try selecting/pairing each vent option to see what it offers you.
Example: for my 2015 Fusion
Defrost = Main Vent
Main Vent = Main Vent
Defrost + Main vents = Defrost
Foot Vent = Main Vent
Foot Vent + Defrost = Foot Vent
Just a possibility before you spend the money and the time.
Still a great video. After the 50min it took me to change it. I’m just going to leave it in there.
That's interesting. Mine just flat out did not move vents at all and only left the foot vent on.
I had the same problem with my 2015. That actuator must be a trash part. No wonder the Ford place charged me almost 500 bucks. After watching this, I’m glad I didn’t try it. Great vid!
Thanks for watching. Seems to be poor quality from Ford. A lot of people are having this problem, you think there would have been a recall.
Yours was the most helpful video that I could find. Mine had minor differences, but nothing significant.
Mine just went out , this video is very helpful thanks
Okay so this has been an AWESOME help, I had that exact part go bad, I do want to leave a couple of notes for anyone who is going to do it themselves like we did:
1.) Take the extra time and pull out the 4 bolts and 4 T26 torx screws and drop the steering column. You don't have to detach it, but dropping it makes it LIGHT YEARS easier to get to the part to change it. Be sure and remove the small plate at the top of the steering column with the torx screws to remove the steering position sensor, or you might pull the wires out. When you drop the steering column it makes it to where you can reach the screws more easily. There's a cross-member inside the dash that can make the top screw a little difficult, but it's not too bad as long as you're careful. I promise you, this step will save you loads of trouble (and scraped hands).
2.) When making sure that the actuator has the same alignment as your existing one you get, the easiest way is to GENTLY un clip and pull the top off the actuator with the gear facing down. Just lift the gears out and line them up with where the old one was, then replace them and clip it back together before inserting the new one. The clips are super fragile, but don't require much other than a gentle twist and push of a small flat head screwdriver.
Thanks for adding the extra tips. Glad the video helped you out.
Very easy to follow, I had a 2017 fusion just a few extra screws but this video was perfect to get the task completed. Thank you.
Awesome, Thank you for this video! My Mode actuator died at 120K miles for my 2016 ford fusion. part costed closer to $60 in 2023, thank you inflation. Either way cheaper than the dealership!
BEST video on the net!!! Thanx,..
A friend has a 2105 Fusion.. symptom.. won't go to defrost I told him you get the part we'll take care of it (Mode Damper Actuator) .. Today we tackled it.. 1st I'll say I was leery about un-snaping the (speedo bezel) seemed on the verge of breaking but I got it out, with no breaking.. I have a plastic tool that makes disassembly less scary as it bends and doesn't scratch anything like I fear a screwdriver might.
Next: I just couldn't believe they used Philips screws but they did, (there were hex screws on my '02 explorer when I did a similar job.)
The only thing I can figure is that is to prevent them from being too tight from the factory.. but reaching and breaking them loose was quite difficult..
Next I have an assembly TIP:
I disassembled the old actuator and pulled big gear (shaft) out and used it as an indexer to
1) make sure the damper was free
and
2) position the damper so the new actuator went on easily.
The new actuator (as found out of the box) was in the 210.2 degree position, I painted white out on the old gear such that when it was @ the same position (210.2 deg) the white out was at 12 o"clock. I positioned the damper, the new actuator slipped right on perfectly with the alignment pin no fuss no muss no problem.
Comedy (aka modern technology) When I unplugged the connector for the headlights (to get it bettor out of the way) the headlight chimer chimed?? I got out and looked.. the headlights are ON!! so I disconnected the battery.. That there is some goofy logic
Saved me a trip to the stealership, thanks!
Thanks so much for posting this video. This is the same part that goes bad in the Ford Explorer also. My problem is since Ford knows this part is going to fail, why not put it in an easy to access location. Maybe the goal is to make parts that will fail and put them in horrible locations so service centers will make good money off those afraid to DIY this project. There should be a recall for this part to be replaced by Ford. Then maybe Ford will stop this foolishness.
I'm getting ready to do this today I really appreciate you video it gave me the confidence I needed to tackle it....wish me luck.
Update I just did this same fix with the help of your video and it definitely helped. Once I got the old one off I connected the power supply first then seated it into position and screwed it back in. It made it a little easier otherwise you're fighting the angle blind with on hand almost and 3 fingers. I really appreciate your video I was able to follow along step by step and get everything put back together and this fixed my issue and saved so much. I got the part for under 40 at advanced auto parts. Take care and hope this helps others and helps your video get more views
I am very glad that my video helped you out. We all need to save money at this point. Thank you .
I am having this same issue right now. Mine is stuck on defrost and feet and I was hoping that since we just had a big winter storm heavy ice and snow that maybe it's just cold and got stuck in place because it's in single digits here and I don't have a garage. But I do have heat so I am ok and can wait for warmer weather to change this out. I just wanted to thank you for you video because I much rather spend 40.00 vs. 1,000 just to have it diagnosed
I am glad my video could help you out. Good luck.
Mine to I have a 2017, do you know what the part number is for the unit?
2015 Fusion SE
All I did was:
- drop the panel below the steering wheel and left it atatched and flapping.
- remove the lower steering column housing
From there I could see it and had access.
Unplug the wire before you remove the part. Mine had a red locking clip that slid completely out. Then, you still have to push the tab to release wire connector. It wasn't too difficult. When it is still statched, you can pull on it.
***Important finding: I used a long, 6 inch or so, flexible screwdriver attachment with with a philip bit on a regular type screwdriver handle to the get the top screw. I could use two hands. One to hold the bit on the screw and the other, from the other side of the steering column, to turn.
I was able to partly put the new part on and turn the mode door to the correct alignment (before plugging in the wire).
I atatched the wire before screwing in the part.
This is a great video but I just worked on my 2016 ford fusion SE 1.5 L and I followed the exact same steps with one more additional video. Just to realise that actually I messed up wrong actuator which was at the same place this video shows. I was able to fix it right away but I still couldn’t find the mode actuator under dashboard. My biggest learning is first just disconnect the connector and try AC with all functions to make sure you are not messing up the incorrect actuator. Looks like not every model year fusions are the same..
This was really helpful, you save me alot of money and time!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, this video was great! I had to drop the steering column like the other comment said in order to get at it. I also had to remove a steering heat module + mounting bracket which was in the way.
Glad that I could help. Its great when others leave comments that also help. Thanks for watching.
Looks intimidating but I'm definitely not paying dealer prices. I'd rather pay the $40-$50 for the part get my son out there with me teach him a few swear words & call it a day 😂 thanks for posting.
He will definitely learn some new words. Thanks for watching.
I have the heated steering wheel option and that module totally blocks access to the mode door actuator. I pulled the steering column and then it wasn't too bad to get the hsw module unbolted and get to the mode door actuator. My dealer would have charged $600 for the repair. I was confused at first by the decoy blend door actuator.
How hard was it to remove the steering wheel? I'm trying this now and I have the heated steering wheel option.
Thank you for the video it was really helpful, just completed this project however I did not take the dashboard cluster out just the bottom of the Dashboard under the steering wheel did it all by feel it was a pain but worked out
I am glad my video helped you. It feels good to accomplish something on your own. Good job.
I found it easier to drop the steering column just by removing the 4 bolts and just lowering it down. Otherwise great video thanks
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the tip
Thank you for excellent video! It's work! But is easiest to do this by 2 persons. 👍🤝
May God bless you thanks man so much for the video such a big help man you know what they say RUclips university guy told me $1000 as well you made it look so easy
Went to try this myself i have a Ford fusion energi, it has a heated steering wheel so the module for the steering wheel is mounted on a bracket right infront of the one that needs replaced. 😭 I literally cannot find a way to get my hands back there without disassembling the whole dash. Im wondering if i take the radio unit out if i would be able to reach it?.
Thanks for sharing this video mine's actually just went out I think a week ago i got my Cabin filter change though that was my issue the frost still doesn't work I'm glad I Google this and found you but I have no one to put it in for me so just my luck I have to go to the Dang dealershipIs not happy about it now I am out of money just for the labor I no that part isn't that expensive
Did you end up taking all 3 screws from the bottom? Bc In the video seems like you were going to take the 2 from the top, then u switched to the bottom view saying “this is the only way you can get them out?” Kinda got confusing for me
Thanks for the video. I’m going to be attempting this soon.
Good luck, it's really not that hard. It is a pretty tight fit for your hands.
thanks for what you do.
Once you put on the new part, do you have to line anything up at all? Like to make sure that defrost is lined up with the knob for defrost? Or will it auto align on it own? I’d hate to install this and my main knob controls my feet. Feet knob controls defrost, etc
I see two actuators on the driver's side. One by the brake pedal arm and one upper. I believe the problem shown on this video is for the upper. My issue is that the driver's side only blows cold and the passenger side works normally,
Which one did you change?…the top one or bottom one because I seen two also
So are there 3 actuators in total? 1 for selecting direction and 2 for controling temp of driver and passsanger?
Awesome video, very well done. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great tutorial, thanks!
Hi sir thanks for your video, I’m hoping you can help me out.. I’ve replaced the blend mode actuator on my 2016 fusion. I’ve confirmed that I put the right part in (yh-2022) and my car is still stuck on defrost. I’ve reset the climate control via disconnecting the battery, resetting the fuse and another reset method I found online which is press the power and defrost button at same time. Still no luck. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be ?
i think this is my problem, its stuck on defrost. however it blows cold no matter what temp i set as well. could it be the mode actuator is also stuck on sucking in cold air or something.
would I be able to go in from the bottom and not have to remove the entire Op panel? just remove the covers under the dash and the steering wheel.
Your hands must be very smart and small- I can't even come close to getting the acuator out!
Yes it was a battle. Hopefully you get it figured out.
I have the same problem, i have plenty of air coming out of the vents only. The windshield and the floor doesn't work. you think it can be the same part?
I would say it is your mode actuator. Remember there is a difference in the actuators. The blend actuator controls hot and cold air only, not the blowing of the air. Some cars have more than 1 actuator, do your homework and see if you can pinpoint where your actuator is. Good luck!
@@kaygan2188 i have a 2016 ford fusion
@@hanselreynoso8411 I would say it is the same part.
Nice work 👏 Thank you!
You are welcome.
Got every part out. But the only thing that is troubling me is the screws. Got the bottom one out, but the one across it on top it’s a mission. My screw is tight on, the screw driver I used can’t fit up top and I tired using a head of a screwdriver and that didn’t work too. Need a screwdriver with a small enough handle to fit up there.
Where you get that screw driver from?
Where did you find that screw driver? I ended up welding a thumb screw onto a phillips head to make my own. It didn't fix the problem, but I think I may have to pull it apart and align the gears.
I believe I got it at Harbor Freight. It was cheap.It was something I had in my toolbox.
Where’d you order the part!
Replaced the mode door actuator, and it did not fix the problem. Air only flows through the front vents!! Any suggestions?
Found the solution?
Thank you! Does anyone have a part number the door blend actuator is the only one I see when I type in HVAC mode or just vent actuator in google
How do you remove the red tab on the connector.? Tabatha would have been great to see!
It was hard to remove the tab. Pull hard with a fingernail or tip of screwdriver. I broke my red tab, but no worries. It connects tight and will not fall out.
Are there any other steps involved, or switches to remove with push button start. I’m going to attempt this on a 2017 Fusion. Thank you in advance.
I do not know if there would be any additional steps for a push button start. Please comment if there is. Thanks.
Do you have a link to the part or a part number, I have the same issue on my 2016 Ford Fusion but I'm unable to find a diagram or the correct part, I keep getting the HVAC Blender which is not what I need.
The info is: MotorCraft YH2022, part # is GS7Z 19E61A. Some of the actuators may have the same part #. All the actuator basically does is open and close the vent doors. If you can get yours out, it will have all the info on it. Thanks for watching. Good luck!
Two hours later I still can’t get close to reaching the screws to take out the bad actuator. I feel like this video is missing a lot at 12:27. Anyone want to help me finish this? I’ll pay you $180
Is the mode actuator on top of the blend door actuator?
No it is not. They are in separate places.
Where did you choose to purchase your part? Do you happen to have reference to the part # still?
I bought the part from a Ford dealer. The part number is Motorcraft YH2022, Part # GS7Z 19E616A. Thanks for watching.
Thanks to your video I was able to change mine out. Getting to that back screw was a real pain but I got it done.
@@jerryverastegui358 Glad I could help you out. You are right, the screws were the worst part.
Does anyone knows how much it would cost to repair at a garage?
You mention the actuator was “in a position that the dial wouldn’t turn”. Was the actuator actually defective or maybe the dials just “unable to rotate”? Did you attempt to run the defrost when the dials were able to rotate freely? Thank you.
The actuator actually would not change from heat to defrost at all. It worked fine for about 3 years. Once I had it out, I had it working . After I put it back in, it stopped working within 2 days.
Thank you!
You are welcome. I hope my video helped you.
@@kaygan2188 it helped 100%
Ditto on my 2014 Fusion SE. They tried to tell me that the entire center had to be replaced - a $500+ part + labor. I can do this. Thanks.
How long did it take you total?
You should be able to do it in less than 2 hours as long as you don't have too much trouble with disconnecting the actuator and removing the screws that hold the actuator in place.
anyone have a good place or site to buy this part. link it plz.
I was hoping these new style Fusions would be good cars! I have a 2014 with 45K on it and have this problem. Not good!
Mine is a 2016 and this problem started around 18000 miles. I hope my video helped you. Thanks for watching.
Replaced my mode actuator still only blows on floorboards.
Does anyone have the part number ?
What the part number for the actuator
Motorcraft YH2022 Part number GS7Z 19E616 A. I hope my video helps you. Good luck.
My 2015 only blows from defrost. Front vents don’t blow at all. Gets hot and cold so I probably have the same problem. I will be trying to fix it myself. Not wanting to spend $500+ to have someone do it.
I would say you have the same problem. Good luck. It isn't as hard as you might think.
I went from no defrost to only defrost after putting in new actuator. And the temperature only goes to 30°
HEATED STEERING WHEEL WARNING: Don't bother with this if you have a heated steering wheel, you (and i) are going to have to go the long way. The "module" for the heated steering wheel sets right in the way of accessing the actuator.
Also to note that my light switch (and trunk release) assembly had screws holding the bottom portion on - the panel was still able to be pried loose from the top, simply not entirely separated from the dash. Doubt it is necessary to remove those thinking back on all the fun i have had trying to accomplish this so far, but just don't try to force the whole thing off without checking first...
The next day...
I learned from ruclips.net/video/t8t7EFNs5vg/видео.html (worthwhile watching the first part that is here - ruclips.net/video/Cobp7Zeag40/видео.html) that instead of removing the dashboard (which is an incredibly larger job than any of you will imagine - if you don't already know what is necessary on this idiot piece of "engineering", you have to remove the doors and it comes out as one single huge assembly) - a variation that worked for me is what is shown in this video AND removing the steering column, which is so much easier than i thought (WARNING: there is one little electrical connector you will see cited in the other "Conclusion" video that WILL break from the simple shifting of the column when unbolting. Do NOT fully unbolt - loosening is OK to give a couple inches of movement, but don't press your luck unless you have some Super Glue handy - until you have either disconnected it or opened the top cover and removed the sensor that is attached thereto!!!).
The Heated Steering Wheel Module was still a bitch, but now i could get at what held it in place. It might be possible to do so without taking out the steering column, but i had no clue as to how to attempt.
The internal gear was not aligned to how the gear protruding from the replacement actuator was, so i took a hint from one of these three videos and inserted the gear partially then twisted the actuator box into bolt alignment. This had me rather nervous that i might have messed it all up, but the light shined on me and once that i had everything back together, the dang thing actually worked! The entire job took me three hours.
As to embarrassments, in my half-blind fumbling around, when the old actuator wouldn't first release after removing the two screws, i felt around and found one more screw and despite great trouble with the steel that goes down to the brake pedal, removed it. Then i looked at everything and found that screw had nothing to do with the actuator. I just needed to wiggle the actuator to get it off. The other was once i got everything put back together and the moment of truth, i turned the key. Nothing. Now i was panicking. I tried to start it a couple more times when i realized this was a damn electric hybrid and it was "ready to drive". I'm getting old.
I'm here because heat will only blow out of the dash vents and not the floor or defrost on my 2016 Fusion and it's negative temps now. Absolutely absurd problem.
heat on driver side ac on passenger. Will this fix it?
I would say no. This sounds like the "blend actuator. It will be in a different area. Mode actuator controls air flow thru different vents. The blend actuator controls hot and cold air. Does air come out? You just cant control the temperature? Can you change air flow from defrost to floor to body vents? If you can change the air flow but not the temperature of the air, it is the blend actuator. Hope this helps.
I have a 2015 fusion
A thousand times easier to do it with dropping the steering wheel.
The hardest part is the top philips screw on the actuator I had to use just a small bit and my finger tips .
why tear it all apart if u cant access from the Top anyways...? :
If SOMEBODY has an easier way to Get To this frig'n PO.S. sure would be nice! ;
Ford plastics & parts are CRAP & they should be forced to fix this kind of stuff
for their customers....... it's THEIR faulty crap parts that keep going out!!!
should be Recalled & fixed!!!
These cars have actuators in different places…mine have 2 on the driver side down by the break pedal…2014