i purchased a 2343 ABA set at a show in Amsterdam , NY yesterday for 65.00 ! i brought them home and after securing e-unit to chassis it ran around the layout. I could not believe it. It was a bit noisy but after some service , it should be fine. First F3 for me, I always wanted one but too expensive for an old guy on social security. Your video will be a big help to me when I service it. Body shells were pretty good with some cosmetic problems that I can easily fix. These were so well made that a little work will usually bring them back to life. Thanks again for your informative videos.
Congratulations on your purchase, that’s a great deal you got. That’s what I love about these trains, you can take a 70 year old toy, do a little cleaning and oiling, and off it goes. Great stuff! I’m thrilled you find my videos helpful.
I disassembled powered A unit and found 2 flat washers between the front motor and the front truck. I removed the front truck and removed the top plate and front driveshaft bearing was upside down as you mentioned in your video. I would not of known this if i had not seen your video. I wish to thank you again . Ray O
Very helpful. Especially for younger guys like me that grew up with mostly modern era stuff. I have a 2333 I got from a train show and I’ve used some of what I learned in this video to service it.
Thanks, that was helpful. I have a 2344 that is just as rusty as that one and I can't get the front motor to work, but I will try cleaning the commutator and other parts as you demonstrated! I will look forward to Part III.
Thanks. I think my repairs on this one are on hold, just can’t get myself back into it. If one motor isn’t working, I would pay close attention to the wiring and make sure it’s all good and properly connected. Good luck!
For those rusted bits give PB Blaster, a rust penetrant, a try. I use it on other projects and I bet a small amount would work well on those truck axles. I just bought a set of that model engine but have not received it yet. Nice to see the insides by referencing your video.
@@poconotrainman great and thanks for watching and subscribing. I have a whole bunch of projects I’m in the middle of. Hopefully I can get myself moving on them and get the videos done!
Hiw did you power up the engines? Looks like you had a positive wire. How did you ground the engines? Or do you need to? New to refurbishing the F-3. Thanks
I don’t remember what I did in this video for powering it up, usually I use a pice of track. But, I also will ground the frame to the transformer and touch the power wire to the hot spot on the e-unit. Either way is fine.
Hard for me to tell but it looks like you are using dry Q-tips and dry towels. Wetting them with rubbing alcohol will remove more of the carbon left from the brushes. Also using emery boards used for manicures can be used to polish the commutators followed by an alcohol rinse. Also don't forget to put several drops of oil into the oil hole on the armature support casting. It probable hasn't been oiled since it left the factory 60 years ago. And of course lubing the gears.
I believe I used alcohol on those q-tips. Sometimes I use it dry first then wet, depends on the moment. I have not used an emery board on the commutator, does t that scratch the metal?
I have a nice collection of f3 from the 1950's - I have never had one that could not be brought back to life. That being said, I have never seen that much rust you had to deal with. I use the same methods of using wd40 to clean and get everything moving properly, then follow up with regular oils.
Repairs have stalled on this one! There is so much rust on all the tiny pieces, I was thinking of soaking everything in evaporust or something to try and clean it all up. Thanks for the hint on the testors.
@@dagryffynhobby sometimes the E units cause so much problem due to corrosion that I remove them, rewire the unit to go in forward only. If you are having issues with motors that run rough, often times the culprit can be a corroded e-unit.
I have a C+O 230 diesel, I clean it pretty much like you. It runs good for 5-10 minutes but eventually slows down. Any tips you have would be appreciated.
@@voxmarsh6458 not sure what to recommend as I have not had that problem. Try running it with the shell off and look for anything abnormal, maybe a wire is loose, or heating up, or there could be corrosion inside the wire you can’t see.
@@dagryffynhobby Thanks for the advice. What I found out was that the engine runs perfectly backwards and sluggishly forward. I think there is a gearing issue. There is some play in the smaller gears and maybe the main shaft gear. Gotta figure this out.
i purchased a 2343 ABA set at a show in Amsterdam , NY yesterday for 65.00 ! i brought them home and after securing e-unit to chassis it ran around the layout. I could not believe it. It was a bit noisy but after some service , it should be fine. First F3 for me, I always wanted one but too expensive for an old guy on social security. Your video will be a big help to me when I service it. Body shells were pretty good with some cosmetic problems that I can easily fix. These were so well made that a little work will usually bring them back to life. Thanks again for your informative videos.
Congratulations on your purchase, that’s a great deal you got. That’s what I love about these trains, you can take a 70 year old toy, do a little cleaning and oiling, and off it goes. Great stuff! I’m thrilled you find my videos helpful.
I disassembled powered A unit and found 2 flat washers between the front motor and the front truck. I removed the front truck and removed the top plate and front driveshaft bearing was upside down as you mentioned in your video. I would not of known this if i had not seen your video. I wish to thank you again . Ray O
Thanks Ray! That’s so great, I’m thrilled my video helped you out! That’s why I started doing this in the first place. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. Especially for younger guys like me that grew up with mostly modern era stuff. I have a 2333 I got from a train show and I’ve used some of what I learned in this video to service it.
Great! With a little experience and patience, I think most anyone could keep these running for a long time. Glad the video was helpful
Thanks, that was helpful. I have a 2344 that is just as rusty as that one and I can't get the front motor to work, but I will try cleaning the commutator and other parts as you demonstrated! I will look forward to Part III.
Thanks. I think my repairs on this one are on hold, just can’t get myself back into it.
If one motor isn’t working, I would pay close attention to the wiring and make sure it’s all good and properly connected. Good luck!
WOW!!!! I just hope mine is not that bad!!! I would PANIC!!!
always enjoy your videos. Learn a lot. I use contact cleaner on the dirty rods. Works well.
Thanks so much!
Good job
Thanks 👍
For those rusted bits give PB Blaster, a rust penetrant, a try. I use it on other projects and I bet a small amount would work well on those truck axles. I just bought a set of that model engine but have not received it yet. Nice to see the insides by referencing your video.
PB blaster! Good idea. I don’t know why I didn’t think of that. It works on rusted ball joints, a toy train shouldn’t be a problem!
I did one about like yours (a 2333 in my case), with similar results.
Nice. Also a great engine
Progress!
I need more progress!
Testors paint has a red color that works great to touch up the red on the sante fe
Cool 👍
Have you or do you plan to make a Part 3? Thanks for these videos, very helpful.
I plan to- still need to order some parts. Thanks for watching and I’m happy they help 👍
@@dagryffynhobby Thanks, I'll be watching for it. I did subscribe.
@@poconotrainman great and thanks for watching and subscribing. I have a whole bunch of projects I’m in the middle of. Hopefully I can get myself moving on them and get the videos done!
Hiw did you power up the engines? Looks like you had a positive wire. How did you ground the engines? Or do you need to? New to refurbishing the F-3. Thanks
I don’t remember what I did in this video for powering it up, usually I use a pice of track. But, I also will ground the frame to the transformer and touch the power wire to the hot spot on the e-unit. Either way is fine.
Hard for me to tell but it looks like you are using dry Q-tips and dry towels. Wetting them with rubbing alcohol will remove more of the carbon left from the brushes. Also using emery boards used for manicures can be used to polish the commutators followed by an alcohol rinse. Also don't forget to put several drops of oil into the oil hole on the armature support casting. It probable hasn't been oiled since it left the factory 60 years ago. And of course lubing the gears.
I believe I used alcohol on those q-tips. Sometimes I use it dry first then wet, depends on the moment. I have not used an emery board on the commutator, does t that scratch the metal?
The 1950s-1960s Lionel Maintenace kit came with emery boards.@@dagryffynhobby
I have a nice collection of f3 from the 1950's - I have never had one that could not be brought back to life. That being said, I have never seen that much rust you had to deal with. I use the same methods of using wd40 to clean and get everything moving properly, then follow up with regular oils.
Repairs have stalled on this one! There is so much rust on all the tiny pieces, I was thinking of soaking everything in evaporust or something to try and clean it all up.
Thanks for the hint on the testors.
@@dagryffynhobby the evaporust might work.
@@dagryffynhobby sometimes the E units cause so much problem due to corrosion that I remove them, rewire the unit to go in forward only. If you are having issues with motors that run rough, often times the culprit can be a corroded e-unit.
@@gwilson61 good point, and I definitely need some new parts for some of my e units. This engine has a lot of rust in it too though.
What if my trucks are missing bushings, shaft and a gear? Does that mean I have a dummy?
Either that or someone took the parts out
Nice! Do you have any idea how much you will sell them for yet?
It will depend on how many parts have to be replaced. At the moment it’s just the front aprons. But I still have to get them back together and see.
I have a C+O 230 diesel, I clean it pretty much like you. It runs good for 5-10 minutes but eventually slows down.
Any tips you have would be appreciated.
@@voxmarsh6458 not sure what to recommend as I have not had that problem. Try running it with the shell off and look for anything abnormal, maybe a wire is loose, or heating up, or there could be corrosion inside the wire you can’t see.
@@dagryffynhobby
Thanks for the advice.
What I found out was that the engine runs perfectly backwards and sluggishly forward. I think there is a gearing issue.
There is some play in the smaller gears and maybe the main shaft gear.
Gotta figure this out.
@@voxmarsh6458 before you start playing with the gears, make sure the drum of the e unit is in good condition with no burn marks or melted plastic.
Where's part 1 ???
ruclips.net/video/cjjOZBVJ730/видео.html
Meant dirty rotors.
WD--40 IS A CRAPY PENETRATING OIL!!!! SHOULD USE JB BLASTER OR LIQUID WRENCH
It actually isn’t crappy but I can respect your opinion