Thanks for coming over to my channel and sending the link of your video to me, I actually had a friend telling me about your video and how well your experiment turned out. I would say it worked out great, and your video is obliviously doing really well with nearly 40,000 views. I enjoyed the video and in my spare time I shall check out more of your stuff, but you earned my sub, let me know if there is anything else I can do brother
$70.00 U.S for 5 gallons is a steal, here in Oz there's only a few places that sell Evaporust, it retails in Supercheap auto for about $75 U.S for 1.3 U.S gallons. Also it's made in New Zealand so transportation is not a big factor, just another example of products being ridiculously expensive here.
Got my aunt and dads 302 that’s been sitting around for years had mug dogger nest in the cylinders tore it down and I’m planning to rebuild it from the ground up all new internals it’s gonna be fairly pricey got I wanna bring this block back from the dead thank you
Oh except for the bag I think you had it as I said I did look good.got one going together before to long I may try it on mainly for cleaning insides for cooling ability and then try to clean out regularly after it’s running with CLR or maybe even keep some in it
huh, I remember seeing a video of "vacuum" sealing a ziplock bag by submerging the bag under water to remove almost most air if you don't have a vacuum thingy. The theory also works on how to maximise a product with minimal waste based on this video.
There just aren't many of these 327 Nova blocks and this was an easy solution! No worries about acid being too strong or the molasses putting up the block. We felt like we got the best of both worlds- rust specifically targeted and removed and zero rust of damage to a rare block. Thanks for the positive comment!
Acids can be great for cleaning. I only chose this because acids eat rust and good metal. When I rely on lifter bore clearance for proper oil pressure, Evaporust only eats rust, so it was safer. Vinegar for cleaning pliers, screw drivers and other less precision instruments is a great choice all day! I appreciate the comment!
First off, thanks for the comments and positive message. Nice job on your channel. You have a more refined intro and filming than me. I'm just working off my cell phone. I need to work my way to your level. I had a 77 Suburban with a 454 several years ago. They are great truck! Good luck with your projects!
@@PaulsProTips feel free to sub and see how crazy things get!! My videos lag to real time as usual. Cleaning heads and block atm, havent uploaded alot as you can imagine. I promise it will all be put online for sure. Very little editing!!
How would you address the flash rusting if you could do it again? Do you think spraying it down with brake cleaner (if you wanted to paint the block) or a lubricant (if you're leaving it bare) might help?
Not sure how safe this would be to use air to blow the Evaporust, low side in Block with Airline to a pipe so it would move the rust around inside Block as it just sets. keep the rust moving will make it clean inside of Block, Also seen where one man used vinegar to clean his block out, maybe use a 55 gal drum with water, fill the bag with vinegar & maybe Airline to small ports to keep it moving around to help eat this rust away from Block, I know he said 50/50 did not work for him so it was full vinegar on his engine, munch less than the 75.00 you were out, I will do the bag & Vinegar first, if it works will let you know, 10 Gal of Vigenar may cost 10.00 15.00 dollars & looked to have cleaned as well as this did.Not trying to run your ideal down or anything, I like the Bag & the Evaporust & may have to use it after the Vinegar ideal if it fails, Thank you for your input, would have used 55 gal of Vinegar without your input.
I really appreciate the comment. I started this project with a similar thought as you. Here is what changed my mind. The Vinegar is a light acid that doesn't know the difference between rust and good metal. I had concerns that after some of the lighter rust areas were clean, there are others areas of the block which really needed to be submerged longer. My biggest fear would be that sometimes casting numbers, or critical areas like lifter bores (which rarely have heavy rust) could get opened up or eroded from the acid. The Evaporust was the perfect choice, and the price had me come up with the bag idea. I look forward to your update. Good luck!
Yes, sir! I hear vinegar too works. Most processes aren't completely even. So when rust is all eaten up on one section, but not in another, do you let the process keepgoing and sacrifice sone of the good metal- possibly machined surfaces like lifter bores? This is the only process I know that exclusively targets rust and stops at good metal
@@PaulsProTips with certain metals, a 50-50 brine of vinegar and table salt works. like if you have a bucket full of fasteners from a project, pour in the brine and mark what they're for and come back in a month or so to reinstall. the question about metal is valid--if it's a structural area, for example, you probably want to "go down" to metal that won't get eaten away. but some will want to do a rust conversion (say, with navel jelly) instead. esp. on a restoration, where you aren't looking to eat away half a numbers-matching framerail, let's say, and you won't be blasting that particular car down the quarter mile. As for machined surfaces, if there's even a chance to pit, you might be better off machining away towards the blueprint specs. A lifter bore might get away with a hone from a brake cylinder hone, but too much clearance and you're looking at valvetrain oiling issues. but then let's say you're messing with a Ford Windsor block or a Mopar LA block. the Fords are known for lifter bore missalignment, so if you're planning on shifting past 6,000 rpm, you probably already planned on having the lifter bores enlarged and sleeved to get your pushrods to line up...or in the case of the Mopar, since it was cast for the early Hemi, the lifter bores are at odd angles and those looking for high RPM stability also want to rework those. So pitting isn't going to be an issue. but on a Pontiac block? those are notorious for not having their lifter bores cast into the lifter valley deeply enough, and a radical cam will snap 'em loose. so making them even thinner by boring and honing....
Not sure. When you say blast, do you mean with steel shot, or their acid cleaner maybe? At the end of the day, I wanted to get all of the rust off- without the fear of an acid opening up clearance such as lifter bores etc. There would still be steps at the matching shop, but for now- we're happy to have a rust-free block. I appreciate the comments and feedback. Do you ha e any preferred methods or technique?
@@PaulsProTips Burn and blast. Basically makes the block look almost new. Same with heads as well. Works like a rotisserie with blocks and cylinder heads and is done for pretty cheap.
Just check Amoozun and they want $130 for 5 gallons. To much $$ for me although I don't have a block that bad either. I have used Por15 on mower deck and did great BUTT also very pricey. I did come across another product that eliminates rust and protects the metal from ever rusting again. It was an acid type chemical in a spray bottle got from Tracker Sooply. That is the miracle shtuff can't remember the name of it. Now it's everywhere.
I feel like Evaporust has had some decent price increases since they were acquired by CRC in 2021, but there has been inflation all over the place along the same timing. I hope you can find the right product at the right price for you!
Great tip. I was looking for a good way to clean up the cylinder assembly and miscellaneous other parts from an old riding mower engine. With 2 five-gallon buckets going, your water bath method probably saved me 6 or 8 gallons of vinegar. As Al Green would say, "Simply Beautiful!".
I've been tinkering with using electrolysis with borax as an electrolyte. Do you think it is safe for the non rusted metal where clearances is critical? Or should i use evaporust?
I've seen several replies here stating it's good but I'm not sure it is such a simple answer. Thay was precisely why I chose the Evaporust. I knew it would only eat the rust. The electrolysis seems to be strongest in areas directly in line of site between the cathode and anode. The areas not as direct and hidden can take longer, white the direct areas will continue to errode the good metal after the rust is gone. I think at best, it matters how much rust and how the vat is configured. The Evaporust avoids all those liabilities.
Brilliant! I was about to slather some Naval Jelly on some bumper brackets because I only have a gallon of Evaporust but now I'm going to use a trash bag and a 5 gallon bucket!
Great video... Great idea using the water and bag to maximize the use of the Evapo-Rust. Why did you use coffee cans in the cylinders? Evaporators-Rust wouldn't hurt the cylinders.
Thanks for the feedback and question. The coffee cans were used just for a similar result as the bag and water. Rather than fill the Evaporust up in the cylinder bores, we had the coffee cans filling those voids. Always open to better ways of doing things, but this was my 1st attempt, and since I don't have a ton of rusty blocks needing this, I may not sort it any better. Feel free to share more input or results. I also would appreciate you shared of my videos, as I am trying to grow the channel.
Would love to see the cylinders sleeves once the machine shop is finished, which I guess would be the proof this works if the bores are usable. Interesting thank you 🙏
I watched a couple of your videos and you are pretty good at what you are doing. You remind me of friends of mine that were all engineers for Westinghouse. I bet you I could give you a paperclip a piece of string and a toothpick and you could build me a phone out of those materials. ,-)
Dave, that is a very flattering compliment. I consider myself to be more of a DIY guy- but being compared to engineer types is very kind. Thank you! I am overdue for some content. Your post has motivated me to share more.
Great video, thank you Paul. Did you have any issues with flash rusting after pressure washing? It didn't look like it, but how long did you have before the surface began to rust again?
I think the Evaporust may have something that helps (probably measured in minutes). We dried it with a leaf blower and immediately put the WD-40 on it.
Electrolysis would have been cheaper though it might not get all the insides. If only you didn't buy the two buckets at first it might have been cheap enough to not just send it to a shop.
Thanks for the reply. I have no regrets with choosing this method. It is certainly easier to clean up afterwards and I honestly feel it is more predictable and consistent. I feel the method could be used for lots of things both bigger and smaller. Hopefully it helps others weigh out what is best for them. I much rather be a diy guy and enjoy the processes with my dad than pay another place to clean it for me. It may not be for everyone, but it was right for me. I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!
My bad. I didnt mean to send that last comment just yet 😆 but anyways that is my input on your idea... Thank you for making this video!! I do believe that it will help many people get the most out of what they have, which will in turn, save them money!! Thank you!!!
Agree! I just have the machine shop to prior to machining. I think they charged $90.00 and the block comes out looking like new cast iron. They most likely use a more caustic cleaning solution because it leaves no rust behind that I can see. It also dissolves any grease and most of the sludge.
That is awesome but you totally could have done the exact same thing with some water and a battery float charger. You should look into doing electrolysis on stuff it's cheap and super effective and non destructive
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment. There are several dozen video's on here that show people doing electrolysis and I've watched a few. I made this video, because there wasn't one demonstration this technique. I'm honestly not sure either performes better BUT I do believe the electrolysis guys often say how they could fine tune the amount and placement of the sacrificial metal to improve results. The Evaporust is not limited in the path of electron flow between the two, offers more consistent results and is better in tough to reach areas which don't ha e the electron flow- such as water jackets. You may be right, there are cheap & easier ways to do this, but I feel this one is worth consideration. It isn't for everyone- but none of these techniques are. If you've made a video, or ha e one in particular you like- feel free to link it in these comments. I love to learn from our community!
Not sure how I could have been any more selective on where the solution worked. You may have a point, so can you recommend a technique you like to use?
I appreciate your feedback.. Better is a relative term. I've seen blocks get ruined from being left in too long. The main point that tipped the scales for my decision was that all other techniques had no way to stop, once the rust was gone. After some areas are clean (the ones in the direct path of the electron flow) the sides not in line of sight between tge C&A will de-rust more slowly- at the same time- metal off the cleaned surface can continue to erode. Same fear with an acid. I did not want to open up lifter bores while other, more rusty areas were still getting slower results. The Evapo-Rust only eats the rust! I'm sure you have enough experience and success with your process to make it work. I'm not sure one is better than the other. Just depends on what you value more.
I used to use muratic acid to rip rust off steel, rinse the acid off, then dip in "Ox O Sol" The Ox O Solv got rid of the flash rust and put a zinc oxide coating on the metal. Ox O Solv isn't made anymore.....
This product comes in a concentrate about $20 a quart makes 3 gallons much cheaper. Ben using it years only the water evaporates just add the water back.
It is an early Nova, 327 block with the raised oil filter. I find them harder to come by than maybe you do. I thoroughly enjoyed the process, and making the video with my Dad!
I think they both would. Here was my dilemma. Not all the areas had the same amount of rust. So after the rust is taken care of in some areas, but not others and I leave it in to get all the rust- what happens to the good metal that continues to be exposed to the acid? I was afraid lifter bores would have excessive oil clerance and cause oil pressure issues. I know the Evaporust ONLY eats rust- so it felt like the safest solution. I acknowledge it may not be the cheapest!
A block that is rusted too bad will eat into the cylinder through the water ways. Just because it looks better doesn't mean it will last after it runs.
So, i really like this idea of how to make the product go further!! My suggestion tho would be to add the product into the garbage bag before you add the water to the outside. I think that this will help reduce the chances of the "pockets" where the product wasn't able to touch the block. I'm not 100% sure of this though, as i have yet to try it myself. Just thought that putting the water in first is giving the water the chance to create those little "pockets"
Thumbs up for a great vid! Do you feel it cleaned the lower parts of the water jacket well? I have such a huge build up that the block drains are totally plugged.
Using the bag with water putting pressure are is genius. What I have to say I enjoyed the most was you and your Pops doing something cool together. Did a few engine swaps with mine when he was alive and made some great memories, even tho there were a few wrenches thrown and I won’t say by whom lol. Keep making those memories bud👍🏻
Thanks so much! Yeah I really treasure time spent doing car stuff with my dad. I did appreciate how cool shooting the video with him would be. Lucky it worked out so well. Really appreciate the comment!
The water can evaporate out of the solution. They actually suggest you make a line on the container when letting parts sit. If the level drops, add water to get back to the line, so the PH balance is at it's best for eating the rust. I don't think straight diluting it will get you any more mileage.
@@PaulsProTips I see what you're saying, like thats how one keeps it performing to its intended level. I'm working with a subframe which is about 45" at its longest which is making a suitable container hard to come by and also filling that container expensive, like you addressed in your video. I don't expect the product to be able to do any more work but just to spread its existing work capacity over a larger area. But really the more I think about it your method is likely the better solution (no pun intended). I'm planning on using my trash can and flipping my work piece to do one half at time. Just waiting for the trash man to come empty it. Thanks for your reply.
Just fantastic brother. Thank you I am just going to start doing my Chevy 350 that looks just like yours and was going to buy a five gallon pail but I think all I will need is a 3.5 gallon pail. I have a smaller Rubbermaid box container that the block will fit in and with your water trick it will work just fine.
Nice work ! Looks like a 1962 Chevy ll block with the recessed oil filter pad & that's worthwhile saving . Neat idea with the 2 bags. aka MOTOR MOUSE SBC.s forever ! James T. Burke
I don't see any value on leaving them in. I would remove them. I've certainly put a motor together with used cam bearings before, this just isn't of of those builds for me.
I found local guy who dips entire car bodies in caustic soda they do engine blocks for $100 make the block look like new. Evaporust is great stuff but 5 gallons is $100 it doesn't last long once it goes black doesn't really work that well again. I only use it for small stuff like bolts and such.
My struggle with acids and such is that you can't control what happens once it eliminates the rust in one area but is still working on rust in another. I wish you the best with your method though. I think its ideal when you are working sheetmetal. When there are things like lifter bores which you risk opening up too much- there is where I get concerned. The beauty of Evaporust is it ONLY eats rust!
Hahaha Wow. That worked really well. I spoke too soon. Haha I didn't know why you wanted to keep the evaparust out of the cylinders. I guess you take it to a shop then. Seems like a giant success. I am one to talk. I need mad help! I can't move some rusted stuck wheels that a serpentine belt goes on. How do you move those? They are not easy to grab a hold of.
Could you do a better job of explaining your dig? I've head the cliche but don't understand what you are concerned with? It will be getting a fresh straight bore, so derusting the cylinder walls was not a concern. I probably could have done a better job by eliminating the bag and going straight product, but for the cost of the product used, I'm thrilled with the results. FWIW, the coffee cans are about 1/3 of a gallon x 8 isnjust over 2.5 gallons of Evaporust which is about $50. I already had the coffee cans.
you should check out the electrolysis method as well . check out on youtube - How to totally clean an engine block by user Gearhead 327 dont forget to scrub and clean out those oil passages and galleys
I did do some research before I chose this method. The reason why electrolysis concerns me is the lack of control, once the rust in a section is removed. It seems to work best in straight lines between the annode and cathode. So there will be areas which derest faster. One the rust is gone from those areas, and rust in other areas is eaten more slowly, the clean meta continues to be eaten too. I felt Evaporust was safer. How to you feel about the risk of electrolysis eating good metal?
I get it. Sometimes, it's better to pay someone to do the job and there are plenty of people there who cab do things better than me. I still have no regrets. I feel the technique I shared and the time I captured with my dad can stand on its own value. I trust your machine shop treats you well and wish you the best on your projects with them!
Great video man, Great idea with the Bag, I've got a 350 block that I need to get the rust off of so I'll definitely be using this trick, Just curious tho, Can't you just add water to the Evapo Rust tho ???
Thanks for the compliment! As for adding water, they do tell you that the water will evaporate, and that it is best to mark the original liquid level in a container. That way you can add water and bring it back to the specific gravity of the original product. I think diluting it additionally will make it become less effective. If you try that, please post your results here man!
You wasted SO much money on this. You can use 10 gallons of distilled Wal-Mart vinegar for about 30 bucks and have the engine come out after 24 hours completely clean. If you are trying to get a sponsor sorry that I just killed it. Their product from what I see in this video is an expensive vinegar result. Save your money and just use the damn vinegar like a normal person lol.
There are several similar replies with vinegar, citric acid and electrolysis. All have great applications. What I like about the Evapo-Rust is that it only eats away at rust. It will not eat steel or iron. Vinegar and others do! I had concerns that areas which clean up quickly could start to have good metal removed at the same time more heavily rusted areas were still getting cleaned. The lifter bores were pretty clean. Not really interested in bushing them! Thanks for the feedback. Your recommendation is worth trying on some rusty hand tools and such! I should make a follow-up video addressing your perspective.
@@PaulsProTips Vinegar will literally never eat iron, the acid cannot bond with iron molecules and it would take steel longer to rust than to be eaten by vinegar, we are talking about taking off a layer around .0001 thick AT MOST which is well below the tolerances of most engines, even modern ones. I have done vinegar soak on 8 second drag cars as well as semis that see over 1-2 million miles between engine rebuilds. Vinegar is best solution for eating rust PERIOD and it is also the cheapest.
Take it to a machine shop, most has a dip tank and for the cost of the evaporust vs the cost of dipping it is about the same and you don't have the mess to clean up. Also the cylinders need the rust gone why plug them off? Hmm. I'm not saying this don't work and block looks good.
I can appreciate most task can be accomplished by paying someone else. I wanted to do this with my dad. The reason we didn't want to leave the cylinders open is because the limited amount of product we had, likely would not submerge the block. We would bore the cylinders, so eliminating the rust on the cylinder walls is not an issue.
You may be right. It probably is a personal thing, but I bristle at the thought of throwing sand at an engine. Tbis way I know the oil passages and lifter bores all are addressed with the lightest touch possible. Once the rust is gone- there is no more erosion of the metal- unlike electrolysis.
This is only good if your machine shop is 800 miles away ,here in Chicagoland it costs me 80 bucks to get it hot tanked Magnafluxed and degreased,which unfortunately knocks your 150$ product out of the ballpark,unfortunately my machine shop guy is now 70 and may not do this much longer who knows in other words were losing these kind of services because no one is interested in learning anything anymore
You probably don't need me to tell you this, but your machine shop is significantly unvaluing its time for just of $26 to complete each of those 3 tasks. Not sure what the cost of living is by you, but any younger shop who is still working on paying off their investment in tools and equipment will not do it that inexpensively. I made this video to share a helpful technique, which works on things other than blocks. You are right. There is always someone able to do it cheaper. Good luck with your projects!
@@PaulsProTips wasn’t negative on my part,I appreciate your video,just adding up the cost vs my Time which I need to spend on Metal work on my 70 Charger I check out videos where I can get helpful tips and save money since I am on a budget,might add that the Machine shop probably increased along with anything else in this uncertain world for instance a year ago A Charger quarter panel was around 700 bucks now it’s a Thousand for a good AMD Thanks for your videoo
Some people prefer to pay others to do stuff, and that's okay. Sorry for the confusion. I like to do stuff with my Dad, and this process is a bit different than at the machine shop. I'm thrilled the video is generally well received, but it may not be for everyone- like yourself. Rest assured, there are plenty who get it and may use the technique for their own projects.
@@blakehintz3207 well most ppl want a real shop to more than just clean it up, why not have em do it at the same time they will machine it, it will already be on a hoist etc... anyways. Its not my idea of fun to muscle a block around just to clean it, but thats just me.
Thanks. I felt EvapoRust was the right product for this job- I just needed away to use it affordably. Very happy with the results. Your feedback means a lot! Are you working on anything with this process?
did it take care of the water journals and all that too, that's the bad thing about electrolysis it doesn't get into the actual block and clean the passages
It worked perfectly! You can see at the 6:30 mark how it flowed through the block. At 10:45 you can see the water jacket is as clean as the outer area. Thanks for the comment!
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Really like how you and your dad seem like great friends👍👍👍
Thanks for coming over to my channel and sending the link of your video to me, I actually had a friend telling me about your video and how well your experiment turned out. I would say it worked out great, and your video is obliviously doing really well with nearly 40,000 views. I enjoyed the video and in my spare time I shall check out more of your stuff, but you earned my sub, let me know if there is anything else I can do brother
$70.00 U.S for 5 gallons is a steal, here in Oz there's only a few places that sell Evaporust, it retails in Supercheap auto for about $75 U.S for 1.3 U.S gallons. Also it's made in New Zealand so transportation is not a big factor, just another example of products being ridiculously expensive here.
Got my aunt and dads 302 that’s been sitting around for years had mug dogger nest in the cylinders tore it down and I’m planning to rebuild it from the ground up all new internals it’s gonna be fairly pricey got I wanna bring this block back from the dead thank you
Good idea. Suggest putting empty soda bottles into the cylinders to further reduce the amount needed.
That may be a better technique. Thanks for the suggestion.
Oh except for the bag I think you had it as I said I did look good.got one going together before to long I may try it on mainly for cleaning insides for cooling ability and then try to clean out regularly after it’s running with CLR or maybe even keep some in it
I'm in the process with this right now. I got a ford 351w that was rusted stuck.
I'm going to let it sit for a few days.
Good luck! Hope to hear back!
Thanks for sharing the idea... can use for a lot of things, including in the ultrasonic cleaner.
huh, I remember seeing a video of "vacuum" sealing a ziplock bag by submerging the bag under water to remove almost most air if you don't have a vacuum thingy. The theory also works on how to maximise a product with minimal waste based on this video.
we have just learned how to use that product more effectively.. thank you!
Great idea guys! Way to save a 327 Nova block!
There just aren't many of these 327 Nova blocks and this was an easy solution! No worries about acid being too strong or the molasses putting up the block. We felt like we got the best of both worlds- rust specifically targeted and removed and zero rust of damage to a rare block.
Thanks for the positive comment!
@@PaulsProTips great idea!
That’s a good idea I’m restoring a GL1100 engine and the pistons are really stuck, so I’ll try your idea 😁
I haven't read all of the comments, but I might try this using white vinegar. It's only around $3.00 a gallon.
Acids can be great for cleaning. I only chose this because acids eat rust and good metal. When I rely on lifter bore clearance for proper oil pressure, Evaporust only eats rust, so it was safer.
Vinegar for cleaning pliers, screw drivers and other less precision instruments is a great choice all day! I appreciate the comment!
Dam good idea with the bag!!!!
Enjoyed the video thank you. I am working on my 77 gmc K25 restoration project atm. You got to check it out!
First off, thanks for the comments and positive message.
Nice job on your channel. You have a more refined intro and filming than me. I'm just working off my cell phone. I need to work my way to your level.
I had a 77 Suburban with a 454 several years ago. They are great truck! Good luck with your projects!
@@PaulsProTips feel free to sub and see how crazy things get!!
My videos lag to real time as usual. Cleaning heads and block atm, havent uploaded alot as you can imagine. I promise it will all be put online for sure. Very little editing!!
How would you address the flash rusting if you could do it again? Do you think spraying it down with brake cleaner (if you wanted to paint the block) or a lubricant (if you're leaving it bare) might help?
On this block, I sprayed it down with WD-40 until I was ready to machine and paint it.
Rare high oil filter location block!
Is that a Chevy II in the garage under the cover?
Yes, here is a little walk around.
ruclips.net/video/looJYBUgMgw/видео.html
Not sure how safe this would be to use air to blow the Evaporust, low side in Block with Airline to a pipe so it would move the rust around inside Block as it just sets. keep the rust moving will make it clean inside of Block, Also seen where one man used vinegar to clean his block out, maybe use a 55 gal drum with water, fill the bag with vinegar & maybe Airline to small ports to keep it moving around to help eat this rust away from Block, I know he said 50/50 did not work for him so it was full vinegar on his engine, munch less than the 75.00 you were out, I will do the bag & Vinegar first, if it works will let you know, 10 Gal of Vigenar may cost 10.00 15.00 dollars & looked to have cleaned as well as this did.Not trying to run your ideal down or anything, I like the Bag & the Evaporust & may have to use it after the Vinegar ideal if it fails, Thank you for your input, would have used 55 gal of Vinegar without your input.
I really appreciate the comment. I started this project with a similar thought as you. Here is what changed my mind. The Vinegar is a light acid that doesn't know the difference between rust and good metal. I had concerns that after some of the lighter rust areas were clean, there are others areas of the block which really needed to be submerged longer.
My biggest fear would be that sometimes casting numbers, or critical areas like lifter bores (which rarely have heavy rust) could get opened up or eroded from the acid.
The Evaporust was the perfect choice, and the price had me come up with the bag idea.
I look forward to your update. Good luck!
or a molasses dip or electrolysis with washing soda in a kiddie pool.
Yes, sir! I hear vinegar too works. Most processes aren't completely even. So when rust is all eaten up on one section, but not in another, do you let the process keepgoing and sacrifice sone of the good metal- possibly machined surfaces like lifter bores?
This is the only process I know that exclusively targets rust and stops at good metal
@@PaulsProTips with certain metals, a 50-50 brine of vinegar and table salt works. like if you have a bucket full of fasteners from a project, pour in the brine and mark what they're for and come back in a month or so to reinstall.
the question about metal is valid--if it's a structural area, for example, you probably want to "go down" to metal that won't get eaten away. but some will want to do a rust conversion (say, with navel jelly) instead. esp. on a restoration, where you aren't looking to eat away half a numbers-matching framerail, let's say, and you won't be blasting that particular car down the quarter mile.
As for machined surfaces, if there's even a chance to pit, you might be better off machining away towards the blueprint specs. A lifter bore might get away with a hone from a brake cylinder hone, but too much clearance and you're looking at valvetrain oiling issues.
but then let's say you're messing with a Ford Windsor block or a Mopar LA block. the Fords are known for lifter bore missalignment, so if you're planning on shifting past 6,000 rpm, you probably already planned on having the lifter bores enlarged and sleeved to get your pushrods to line up...or in the case of the Mopar, since it was cast for the early Hemi, the lifter bores are at odd angles and those looking for high RPM stability also want to rework those. So pitting isn't going to be an issue.
but on a Pontiac block? those are notorious for not having their lifter bores cast into the lifter valley deeply enough, and a radical cam will snap 'em loose. so making them even thinner by boring and honing....
Why not just have the machine shop blast it?
Not sure. When you say blast, do you mean with steel shot, or their acid cleaner maybe?
At the end of the day, I wanted to get all of the rust off- without the fear of an acid opening up clearance such as lifter bores etc.
There would still be steps at the matching shop, but for now- we're happy to have a rust-free block.
I appreciate the comments and feedback. Do you ha e any preferred methods or technique?
@@PaulsProTips Burn and blast. Basically makes the block look almost new. Same with heads as well. Works like a rotisserie with blocks and cylinder heads and is done for pretty cheap.
The bladder bag technique 3:55 is brilliant, a master class! WOW
Just check Amoozun and they want $130 for 5 gallons. To much $$ for me although I don't have a block that bad either. I have used Por15 on mower deck and did great BUTT also very pricey. I did come across another product that eliminates rust and protects the metal from ever rusting again. It was an acid type chemical in a spray bottle got from Tracker Sooply. That is the miracle shtuff can't remember the name of it. Now it's everywhere.
I feel like Evaporust has had some decent price increases since they were acquired by CRC in 2021, but there has been inflation all over the place along the same timing.
I hope you can find the right product at the right price for you!
Great tip. I was looking for a good way to clean up the cylinder assembly and miscellaneous other parts from an old riding mower engine. With 2 five-gallon buckets going, your water bath method probably saved me 6 or 8 gallons of vinegar. As Al Green would say, "Simply Beautiful!".
I've been tinkering with using electrolysis with borax as an electrolyte. Do you think it is safe for the non rusted metal where clearances is critical? Or should i use evaporust?
I've seen several replies here stating it's good but I'm not sure it is such a simple answer. Thay was precisely why I chose the Evaporust. I knew it would only eat the rust.
The electrolysis seems to be strongest in areas directly in line of site between the cathode and anode. The areas not as direct and hidden can take longer, white the direct areas will continue to errode the good metal after the rust is gone.
I think at best, it matters how much rust and how the vat is configured.
The Evaporust avoids all those liabilities.
Wouldn't it be cheaper take it to a machine shop and put it in their hot tank overnight or don't you have one near you?
Evapo-Rust is great stuff. Use it myself. Totally reusable, too. Before I put it back, dip a magnet in to pick up all the ferrous debris.
Will it work as a coolant flush? I drive the truck everyday and a bad radiator cap caused rust
I feel like the offer a version of this specifically for that. I'm sure if you search evaporust coolant you get on the right path quickly.
That block is a nova block, first for spin on oil filter
Interesting video. I would suggest you remove the cam bearings and oil galley plugs next time before dipping.
Brilliant! I was about to slather some Naval Jelly on some bumper brackets because I only have a gallon of Evaporust but now I'm going to use a trash bag and a 5 gallon bucket!
Great video... Great idea using the water and bag to maximize the use of the Evapo-Rust. Why did you use coffee cans in the cylinders? Evaporators-Rust wouldn't hurt the cylinders.
Thanks for the feedback and question. The coffee cans were used just for a similar result as the bag and water. Rather than fill the Evaporust up in the cylinder bores, we had the coffee cans filling those voids.
Always open to better ways of doing things, but this was my 1st attempt, and since I don't have a ton of rusty blocks needing this, I may not sort it any better. Feel free to share more input or results.
I also would appreciate you shared of my videos, as I am trying to grow the channel.
Would love to see the cylinders sleeves once the machine shop is finished, which I guess would be the proof this works if the bores are usable.
Interesting thank you 🙏
The Nova blocks are hard to find. So, someday it may go back in. For now, we are rocking this small block:
m.ruclips.net/video/M1dQfoJeNUo/видео.html
I watched a couple of your videos and you are pretty good at what you are doing. You remind me of friends of mine that were all engineers for Westinghouse. I bet you I could give you a paperclip a piece of string and a toothpick and you could build me a phone out of those materials. ,-)
Dave, that is a very flattering compliment. I consider myself to be more of a DIY guy- but being compared to engineer types is very kind. Thank you!
I am overdue for some content. Your post has motivated me to share more.
Great video, thank you Paul. Did you have any issues with flash rusting after pressure washing? It didn't look like it, but how long did you have before the surface began to rust again?
I think the Evaporust may have something that helps (probably measured in minutes). We dried it with a leaf blower and immediately put the WD-40 on it.
Electrolysis would have been cheaper though it might not get all the insides. If only you didn't buy the two buckets at first it might have been cheap enough to not just send it to a shop.
Thanks for the reply. I have no regrets with choosing this method. It is certainly easier to clean up afterwards and I honestly feel it is more predictable and consistent.
I feel the method could be used for lots of things both bigger and smaller. Hopefully it helps others weigh out what is best for them. I much rather be a diy guy and enjoy the processes with my dad than pay another place to clean it for me. It may not be for everyone, but it was right for me. I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!
Where to get the huge can from?
I found it cheap on FB Marketplace! Thanks for watching and I wish you luck with your project!
My bad. I didnt mean to send that last comment just yet 😆 but anyways that is my input on your idea... Thank you for making this video!! I do believe that it will help many people get the most out of what they have, which will in turn, save them money!! Thank you!!!
Thanks for comments! You may be right on when to add product! Maybe someone else will comment on which order worked best for them!
now just hit it with WD-40
You know we did!
Oh and if storing it in a plastic bag too
Looks like too much work….. I’ll just pay $125.00 to the machine shop
Agree! I just have the machine shop to prior to machining. I think they charged $90.00 and the block comes out looking like new cast iron. They most likely use a more caustic cleaning solution because it leaves no rust behind that I can see. It also dissolves any grease and most of the sludge.
That is awesome but you totally could have done the exact same thing with some water and a battery float charger. You should look into doing electrolysis on stuff it's cheap and super effective and non destructive
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment. There are several dozen video's on here that show people doing electrolysis and I've watched a few.
I made this video, because there wasn't one demonstration this technique. I'm honestly not sure either performes better BUT I do believe the electrolysis guys often say how they could fine tune the amount and placement of the sacrificial metal to improve results. The Evaporust is not limited in the path of electron flow between the two, offers more consistent results and is better in tough to reach areas which don't ha e the electron flow- such as water jackets.
You may be right, there are cheap & easier ways to do this, but I feel this one is worth consideration. It isn't for everyone- but none of these techniques are.
If you've made a video, or ha e one in particular you like- feel free to link it in these comments. I love to learn from our community!
Jeezus.. I tried so hard with the vacuum bag method.. this is so much easier and so much better.. thanks dude 👍..
Thanks for commenting. I'll have to look up the vacuum bag thing- just to know, but I appreciate you sharing that this seems to work easier.
thats a 327 early Nova block. gm never made a raised oil filter 350.
Came here to say that. Two bolt mains, raised oil filter. Gotta be a small journal 327
Inside the block is all you should have been concerned about for cooling after build
Not sure how I could have been any more selective on where the solution worked. You may have a point, so can you recommend a technique you like to use?
That’s expensive just Do electrolysis much cheaper and better imo
I appreciate your feedback.. Better is a relative term. I've seen blocks get ruined from being left in too long.
The main point that tipped the scales for my decision was that all other techniques had no way to stop, once the rust was gone.
After some areas are clean (the ones in the direct path of the electron flow) the sides not in line of sight between tge C&A will de-rust more slowly- at the same time- metal off the cleaned surface can continue to erode.
Same fear with an acid. I did not want to open up lifter bores while other, more rusty areas were still getting slower results.
The Evapo-Rust only eats the rust! I'm sure you have enough experience and success with your process to make it work. I'm not sure one is better than the other. Just depends on what you value more.
Nice video, this showed me that the product does work and how to save some money also, thank you.
Its an early nova block , sharp eyes !!!
I used to use muratic acid to rip rust off steel, rinse the acid off, then dip in "Ox O Sol" The Ox O Solv got rid of the flash rust and put a zinc oxide coating on the metal. Ox O Solv isn't made anymore.....
63 Nova SS 327
Great eye! This is a 67 block, 275hp
Pure Genius with your water trick 👍🏻
Nova block. Chevy two. Nice. Save.
Spin the can 180 with the spout up top it won't clug,it'll pour smooth
Just used your recommendation on adding 3 gallons of type 32 to a hydraulic lift. Worked great👍
This product comes in a concentrate about $20 a quart makes 3 gallons much cheaper. Ben using it years only the water evaporates just add the water back.
Great idea with using water outside of the bag. I think spraying it with some baking soda and water woulda helped stop the flashing rust
Thanks! I appreciate the comment. Maybe someone will read this and try it!
Till...you..spend..alot..on..that ..stuff..can..buy. other. Bock...
It is an early Nova, 327 block with the raised oil filter. I find them harder to come by than maybe you do.
I thoroughly enjoyed the process, and making the video with my Dad!
Wouldn’t muriatic acid or vinegar work?
I think they both would. Here was my dilemma. Not all the areas had the same amount of rust. So after the rust is taken care of in some areas, but not others and I leave it in to get all the rust- what happens to the good metal that continues to be exposed to the acid?
I was afraid lifter bores would have excessive oil clerance and cause oil pressure issues. I know the Evaporust ONLY eats rust- so it felt like the safest solution. I acknowledge it may not be the cheapest!
A block that is rusted too bad will eat into the cylinder through the water ways. Just because it looks better doesn't mean it will last after it runs.
So, i really like this idea of how to make the product go further!! My suggestion tho would be to add the product into the garbage bag before you add the water to the outside. I think that this will help reduce the chances of the "pockets" where the product wasn't able to touch the block. I'm not 100% sure of this though, as i have yet to try it myself. Just thought that putting the water in first is giving the water the chance to create those little "pockets"
Thumbs up for a great vid!
Do you feel it cleaned the lower parts of the water jacket well? I have such a huge build up that the block drains are totally plugged.
Would the evapo rust ruin the cylinders or would they still be usable afterwards
Using the bag with water putting pressure are is genius. What I have to say I enjoyed the most was you and your Pops doing something cool together. Did a few engine swaps with mine when he was alive and made some great memories, even tho there were a few wrenches thrown and I won’t say by whom lol. Keep making those memories bud👍🏻
Thanks so much! Yeah I really treasure time spent doing car stuff with my dad. I did appreciate how cool shooting the video with him would be. Lucky it worked out so well. Really appreciate the comment!
Anyone consider diluting the evaporust in water since it’s water based?
The water can evaporate out of the solution. They actually suggest you make a line on the container when letting parts sit. If the level drops, add water to get back to the line, so the PH balance is at it's best for eating the rust.
I don't think straight diluting it will get you any more mileage.
@@PaulsProTips I see what you're saying, like thats how one keeps it performing to its intended level. I'm working with a subframe which is about 45" at its longest which is making a suitable container hard to come by and also filling that container expensive, like you addressed in your video. I don't expect the product to be able to do any more work but just to spread its existing work capacity over a larger area. But really the more I think about it your method is likely the better solution (no pun intended).
I'm planning on using my trash can and flipping my work piece to do one half at time. Just waiting for the trash man to come empty it.
Thanks for your reply.
Working smarter not harder.
Just fantastic brother. Thank you I am just going to start doing my Chevy 350 that looks just like yours and was going to buy a five gallon pail but I think all I will need is a 3.5 gallon pail. I have a smaller Rubbermaid box container that the block will fit in and with your water trick it will work just fine.
Smartest thing I have seen in months!!!!
Very flattering comment. Thank you!
283 with the oil filter resesed for a Chevy 2
Very close! 327
You got to realize it's just a little bit of surface rust you know if you plan on rebuilding it sure go for it get some money out of it
Should weigh it before and after. Curious what the difference would be.
I need to try this thanks.
Nice work ! Looks like a 1962 Chevy ll block with the recessed oil filter pad & that's worthwhile saving . Neat idea with the 2 bags. aka MOTOR MOUSE SBC.s forever ! James T. Burke
Thanks for the reply! You're right. It happens to be a 275hp 4 speed block- just about right for my dad's 67.
Great idea with the water outside the bag to limit the area of the bucket.
Do you remove cam bearings before submerging it in the solution?
I don't see any value on leaving them in. I would remove them. I've certainly put a motor together with used cam bearings before, this just isn't of of those builds for me.
@@PaulsProTips So you treat it like a true hot tank service. Ok.
I found local guy who dips entire car bodies in caustic soda they do engine blocks for $100 make the block look like new. Evaporust is great stuff but 5 gallons is $100 it doesn't last long once it goes black doesn't really work that well again. I only use it for small stuff like bolts and such.
My struggle with acids and such is that you can't control what happens once it eliminates the rust in one area but is still working on rust in another.
I wish you the best with your method though. I think its ideal when you are working sheetmetal. When there are things like lifter bores which you risk opening up too much- there is where I get concerned.
The beauty of Evaporust is it ONLY eats rust!
Hahaha Wow. That worked really well. I spoke too soon. Haha I didn't know why you wanted to keep the evaparust out of the cylinders. I guess you take it to a shop then. Seems like a giant success.
I am one to talk. I need mad help! I can't move some rusted stuck wheels that a serpentine belt goes on. How do you move those? They are not easy to grab a hold of.
Could you do a better job of explaining your dig? I've head the cliche but don't understand what you are concerned with?
It will be getting a fresh straight bore, so derusting the cylinder walls was not a concern. I probably could have done a better job by eliminating the bag and going straight product, but for the cost of the product used, I'm thrilled with the results.
FWIW, the coffee cans are about 1/3 of a gallon x 8 isnjust over 2.5 gallons of Evaporust which is about $50. I already had the coffee cans.
you should check out the electrolysis method as well . check out on youtube - How to totally clean an engine block by user Gearhead 327
dont forget to scrub and clean out those oil passages and galleys
I did do some research before I chose this method. The reason why electrolysis concerns me is the lack of control, once the rust in a section is removed.
It seems to work best in straight lines between the annode and cathode. So there will be areas which derest faster. One the rust is gone from those areas, and rust in other areas is eaten more slowly, the clean meta continues to be eaten too.
I felt Evaporust was safer. How to you feel about the risk of electrolysis eating good metal?
@@PaulsProTips if you watch the video I mentioned they only left in there for a small amount of time . it was a long as your waiting time give or take
At that price , be better to send it to machine shop and hot tank it.
I get it. Sometimes, it's better to pay someone to do the job and there are plenty of people there who cab do things better than me. I still have no regrets. I feel the technique I shared and the time I captured with my dad can stand on its own value. I trust your machine shop treats you well and wish you the best on your projects with them!
@@PaulsProTips You said you had about 200 .00 in it. For about 100.00 they hot tank, pressure test , and magnaflux .
@@briankennedy5578 that is a lot of value for $100. Sounds like you have a great resource. Your guy must be very popular in your area!
Great video man, Great idea with the Bag, I've got a 350 block that I need to get the rust off of so I'll definitely be using this trick, Just curious tho, Can't you just add water to the Evapo Rust tho ???
Thanks for the compliment! As for adding water, they do tell you that the water will evaporate, and that it is best to mark the original liquid level in a container. That way you can add water and bring it back to the specific gravity of the original product.
I think diluting it additionally will make it become less effective. If you try that, please post your results here man!
@@PaulsProTips Yeah definitely man
You wasted SO much money on this. You can use 10 gallons of distilled Wal-Mart vinegar for about 30 bucks and have the engine come out after 24 hours completely clean. If you are trying to get a sponsor sorry that I just killed it. Their product from what I see in this video is an expensive vinegar result. Save your money and just use the damn vinegar like a normal person lol.
There are several similar replies with vinegar, citric acid and electrolysis. All have great applications.
What I like about the Evapo-Rust is that it only eats away at rust. It will not eat steel or iron. Vinegar and others do!
I had concerns that areas which clean up quickly could start to have good metal removed at the same time more heavily rusted areas were still getting cleaned.
The lifter bores were pretty clean. Not really interested in bushing them!
Thanks for the feedback. Your recommendation is worth trying on some rusty hand tools and such! I should make a follow-up video addressing your perspective.
@@PaulsProTips Vinegar will literally never eat iron, the acid cannot bond with iron molecules and it would take steel longer to rust than to be eaten by vinegar, we are talking about taking off a layer around .0001 thick AT MOST which is well below the tolerances of most engines, even modern ones. I have done vinegar soak on 8 second drag cars as well as semis that see over 1-2 million miles between engine rebuilds. Vinegar is best solution for eating rust PERIOD and it is also the cheapest.
👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing!
This was a fun project with my dad. Thanks for the comment!
That’s amazing 👍🏿
Thanks for the positive comment!
Take it to a machine shop, most has a dip tank and for the cost of the evaporust vs the cost of dipping it is about the same and you don't have the mess to clean up. Also the cylinders need the rust gone why plug them off? Hmm. I'm not saying this don't work and block looks good.
I can appreciate most task can be accomplished by paying someone else. I wanted to do this with my dad.
The reason we didn't want to leave the cylinders open is because the limited amount of product we had, likely would not submerge the block.
We would bore the cylinders, so eliminating the rust on the cylinder walls is not an issue.
I gotcha, seemed to do the trick. And something good to know for future reference. Thanks!
Loved the vid, what size coffee cans did you use...and I'm assuming they were plastic?
They were old tin cans holding stuff in my dad's garage. We put some duct tape around the plastic lids and they held nearly all the fluid out!
Best is sand blast the outside of the block, inside still need to hon the walls of the cylinder.
You may be right. It probably is a personal thing, but I bristle at the thought of throwing sand at an engine. Tbis way I know the oil passages and lifter bores all are addressed with the lightest touch possible. Once the rust is gone- there is no more erosion of the metal- unlike electrolysis.
On your next video you should show how to use a blower to clean off a driveway!!
Brilliant! Thank you and best wishes!
Brilliant ! Beautiful !
Very good idea!
This is only good if your machine shop is 800 miles away ,here in Chicagoland it costs me 80 bucks to get it hot tanked Magnafluxed and degreased,which unfortunately knocks your 150$ product out of the ballpark,unfortunately my machine shop guy is now 70 and may not do this much longer who knows in other words were losing these kind of services because no one is interested in learning anything anymore
You probably don't need me to tell you this, but your machine shop is significantly unvaluing its time for just of $26 to complete each of those 3 tasks. Not sure what the cost of living is by you, but any younger shop who is still working on paying off their investment in tools and equipment will not do it that inexpensively.
I made this video to share a helpful technique, which works on things other than blocks. You are right. There is always someone able to do it cheaper. Good luck with your projects!
@@PaulsProTips wasn’t negative on my part,I appreciate your video,just adding up the cost vs my Time which I need to spend on Metal work on my 70 Charger I check out videos where I can get helpful tips and save money since I am on a budget,might add that the Machine shop probably increased along with anything else in this uncertain world for instance a year ago A Charger quarter panel was around 700 bucks now it’s a Thousand for a good AMD
Thanks for your videoo
Is there any way this product can harm the engine block?
You can ask the manufacturer yourself. I specifically chose this because it is NOT an acid and will NOT affect the metal, once the rust is gone.
Great idea, thank you for the video.
Uh rust removal electrolysis?
Well it removes both rust AND good metal too. That was my # reason to use Evaporust over electrolysis.
I'd double bag dat block.....Adam of Mythbusters says Evapo Rust is Reusable
im confused...why wouldnt you just have machine shop do it?
Some people prefer to pay others to do stuff, and that's okay. Sorry for the confusion. I like to do stuff with my Dad, and this process is a bit different than at the machine shop. I'm thrilled the video is generally well received, but it may not be for everyone- like yourself. Rest assured, there are plenty who get it and may use the technique for their own projects.
I'm confused, why on earth would you pay a machine shop to do this when you can do it yourself easily for much less?
@@blakehintz3207 well most ppl want a real shop to more than just clean it up, why not have em do it at the same time they will machine it, it will already be on a hoist etc... anyways. Its not my idea of fun to muscle a block around just to clean it, but thats just me.
@@saltpepper1894 tis my idea of fun 😉
suferic asid works
Worked well! Nice job!
Awesome 👏
Good thinking!
Thanks. I felt EvapoRust was the right product for this job- I just needed away to use it affordably. Very happy with the results. Your feedback means a lot!
Are you working on anything with this process?
It’s a 350 block with four bolt mains. Most likely came with a steel crank (not forged) out of a truck.
This is a block before they made 4 bolt mains. 1967 Nova block for a 327ci / 275hp.
What in the actual hell lol
did it take care of the water journals and all that too, that's the bad thing about electrolysis it doesn't get into the actual block and clean the passages
It worked perfectly! You can see at the 6:30 mark how it flowed through the block.
At 10:45 you can see the water jacket is as clean as the outer area.
Thanks for the comment!
Electrolisys lookit up
Yes, I have seen plenty of videos where guys use it. I feel my method has a lower liability of going too far. Thanks for the comment.