Evaporust Vs. Vinegar - At 10X The Cost Does It Do 10X The Job?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- We decided to treat the inside of rusty tank of our Barnfind 61 Sportster with a commercial rust treatment instead of our usual white vinegar/salt mixture. We were a little disappointed by the results, so we decided to test the new method vs old to see which was best. Here's what we found.
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Tony, I've used various methods of rust removal to restore cars and have found EvapoRust perfect for certain tasks. Since I'm mostly into original restorations where the proper bolt heading marking is necessary. I use EvapoRust rust in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with the heat on. It works much better with heat and removes rust, light grease an over spray leaving the caduim finish untouched. I believe the container of EvapoRust states to remove scale rust before use which means it's not going to clean your fuel tank without the boots sloshing around. Vinegar is cheap and another great rust remover. Thanks for the video.
How did you deal with flash rust? Did you just throw gas in the tank right away or coat the inside?
@@funkybassguy68 After EvapoRust process, I cleaned with tap water and placed before a box fan for drying inside my garage. I had little to no problem with flash rust.
I do the same thing. Box fan drying and usually little to no problem
8 month old comment but does evaporust really leave cadmium in place, everything I’ve read (I couldn’t find much) says it removes the coating - I thought cadmium was an oxide so would be removed from sockets - I’ve got some 1945 snap on sockets I’m looking to keep as original as possible
@@bradleypease2492 I've put plated bolts and nuts into EvapoRust, and what plating was still on the hardware did not come off.
If you're going to use vinegar (an acid) on any metal, follow it with a flush of baking soda. Add baking soda to boiling water, then cool. The undissolved soda will fall to the bottom. Use only the clear solution.
Can I ask why?
@@Guitarsnspraycans Baking soda neutralizes acid, stopping that process. By boiling and cooling, any undissolved solids fall out of solution. You wouldn't want it in your fuel system. It only takes a few minutes.
Do not waist your time with baking soda, ammonia is a base and will nuke battery acid or vinegar. No powder mess.
@@tomg6284 no offense, but get your money back on your chemistry set.
Baking soda is the number one neutralizer for sulfuric acid. Besides being non toxic (ammonia is poison), it's many times more potent, and will nuetralize acid down into the smallest rust recesses.
Also, ammonia will harm most unpainted surfaces found under the hood.
The MSDS on baking soda basically says it's harmless.
Vinegar is a weak acid, and a 5% concentrate at that (if purchased from 'the store'). I've de-rusted MANY auto parts with heated vinegar and a simple rinsing afterward seems to be sufficient. I've painted and powdercoated those parts with just a simple rinse and no additional prep (meaning, no sandblasting nor etching). I've had zero noticeable degradation in my coatings. Sometimes there's more than 1 'good' way to accomplish a goal.
I used Metal Rescue with excellent results on my KZ. Two things about using these kinds of rust dissolvers: 1) The tank must be oil free, use lots of hot, soapy water, rinse thoroughly (think car wash wand) and then use plenty of alcohol to dry it, and 2) The rust dissolver works best above 80F. I didn't use any agitators (nuts, bolts, vibration, etc) but I left the tank out in the hot AZ sun and sloshed it around periodically for a couple of days and the entire interior of my tank was pristine. Even the cap looked brand new.
I used EvapoRust on an old XS-650 tank - no flaked rust, but a lot on the surface .... worked like a charm... inside of tank looks new
Great work, Tony. I did the fuel tank on my 75 valiant with electrolysis using a lye solution. It was total rust and jellied garbage. That was in 2012, it's been my daily driver ever since
The biggest upside I've found to EvapORust is that when (not if) I forget a part in it for a week, the only thing I have to deal with is a bit of blackening. I've done the same with vinegar and come back to a horrible, disgusting mess that was worse than when I started. It also is better for nuts and bolts since it won't eat away the peaks of the threads... but for big chunks, vinegar works great (just don't forget about them! lol) As with all rust removal methods, every solution doesn't work for every situation, so it's good to have a backup.
What is that black finish? I left some drive axle bolts in EvapoRust and they turned from grey (a zinc coating I think, ZNS3) to black.
I have not had good success with evaporust when it’s cold. If it’s warmer it works better for me.
@UCSTnMLG_TY5v1rQ2vc1Z-KQ a@@q-
The problem with vinegar is that its high acidity will quickly cause it to rust again after rinsing. Even if you neutralise it with a basic solution afterwards, surface rust will reappear within days if not hours. Evaoprust inhibits reformation of rust even on unprotected raw metal for several weeks and doesnt require neutralising. Evaopust is also highly reusable , just filter it and pour back into the bottle for reuse.
I've used Evaporust with pretty good results. Most of the time I let the parts soak for DAYS, like a week, and the results have been satisfactory. I've never had good results with just soaking overnight.
As some have suggested, I suspect there must be something coating the inside of the gas tank and stopping it from working. I’ve been extremely happy, and downright amazed with the results from Evaporust, completely removing rust on old suspension parts, and exposing all sorts of original paint daubs that you never would have guessed were there. Just do a good degreasing first and stay away from wire brushes or aggressive scraping. Also, it doesn’t work on clear zink plated parts, but is excellent on the black phosphate type coating on things like bumper bracket to frame bolts.
Try a molasses soak. Does all the work for you, but takes time.
Tony
Use a piece of 8ga wire
Cut to length needed and strip insulation off the lower end and pull the strands out to form a brush
After feeding into the tank you can work it back and forth to knock loose scale off and the wire is stiff enough to somewhat bend and hold to the form you want or need to reach different spots
You are a clever guy. Right up your air compressor to blast the inside of the tank with walnut shells or fine grit. Then seal.
Evaporust is great but it doesn't like thick scaly stuff , and , it will definitely eat paint on long exposures to it .
I learned that when rebuilding my winch , and , losing my alignment marks on the 2 gear housing parts , ultimately costing me $300 for a new aluminum end housing and gasket set , plus a 3 week delay .
Vinegar and salt works , as does citric acid which is available in bulk pretty cheaply .
The vinegar and salt trick also works for corroded copper wires , needing just 15 minutes to turn blackened greenish wire back to shiny red .
Follow up with a soak in a saturated solution of water and baking soda to neutralize the acetic acid . This can save you from having to replace an entire harness , or , at least stave off replacing it for a while . Also works on corroded contacts in connectors , especially headlight connectors .
Heat speeds up the process , and , a cheap garage sale crock pot is perfect for quickly cleaning up small parts , nuts , bolts , etc ..
Take my advice and do this OUTSIDE .
Hot acids reek something fierce .
I have had great results with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and lemon juice for dissolving rust. It does have a shelf life though so I typically make a new batch every time I need it. Follow it up with a mild baking soda and water rinse to neutralize the acidic properties followed up with plain water to get all of baking soda out for good. Do a final wash with phosphoric acid and a water wash after that to clear out all of acid (baking soda not necessary) and you end up with a rust proof coating of iron phosphate. It is VERY thin on the surface of the metal but it lasts many years. A fuel tank sealer like POR-15 applied as an end all, sealed for good, is the icing on the cake. You have sealed a rust resistant coating. I have a 1971 Honda CT70 that still has the original tank thanks to that process.
Great review Uncle Tony. For rust in small metal gas tank, still partially galvanized, suggest household liquid ammonia full strength. Put pebbles inside, soak and shake for maybe 6 hours. Avoid breathing fumes. Pour out liquid with rust and pebbles. Rinse well with hot water, invert drain completely, dry in hot sun.
Alkaline verus acid, acids eat any zinc coating left.
Tony Evapo rust is basically a chelating agent it is probably Edta which is called versene 100. A better choice is Citric acid at a phof 4 to remove rust and very safe. The other option is Phosphoric acid commonly found in the big stores in paint department. Never use Muriatic /hydro chlric acid which damages steel
Muriatic acid works well. Removed a ton of from my 73 dart project that the previous owner stripped the paint off off and let sit.
There is one very big difference between the Springer front-end struts, and the inside of the fuel tank : The struts don't have the evaporated fuel residue on them that the fuel tank has... Tony, the residue in the fuel tank needs to be removed first , before ANY kind of a rust remover can properly do it's job... The peacock will need to come off too... I suggest that the tank is dipped into a sollution of caustic soda sollution that radiators and nasty engine parts are subjected to before they are overhauled... Sadly, the paint on the tank, will have to be sacrificed to properly remove the residue from the inside of that tank... Another option is to replace the fuel tank... That might be the best option anyway, since many Harley parts are quite available...
On a smaller scale, old mower gas tank, I used Naval Jelly and a couple hundred bbs. Shaking n swirling to agitate all areas. Worked good
Muratic Acid and water 50/50. 12-18 hrs, then por-15 and a pipe cleaner in the peacock. Done a dozen tanks or more. Works every time.
I have an uncle named Tony and, when I bought an old car for my first car, he showed me how to polish the chrome bumper with coca-cola and 0000 pads 😂 I bloody love this channel.
Can you remind people, though, that, if they use vinegar on any engine parts, they need to thoroughly rinse them before letting them near any freshly-machine iron - like, say, an engine block. Vinegar + bare steel or iron = insta-rust. It's like 04-DW (the opposite of WD-40).
I've always had really good luck hi acid white vinegar not just regular white vinegar but the high acid white vinegar works really well in removing rust better than the regular white vinegar I don't know if you can find that stuff in Tennessee I can't find that at Publix try Trader Joe's or Walmart
In my experience with vinegar the parts need to be fully submerged for days not hours.
Just got done soaking D100 parts for almost a week and pretty heavy rust is gone…
Buy vinegar at Costco you can afford to buy as much as you need.
Fill the tank with ball bearings, rocks, old bolts, whatever, and wrap it in a moving blanket and throw it in the dryer.
I put some rusted solid bolts in some vinegar, the put them on the stove. I was able to have the bolts work after a few minutes of wire brushing. I've also used bar keepers friend, which seems to work faster, but needs a lot of scrubbing.
Hook up your battery charger positive to a piece of iron that can slip inside the tank attacked to a wire so it is not touching any part of the tank hook the negative side to the underside of the tank were you can get bare metal. Fill it with water and 1/4 of a box of arm and hammer laundry soap. Than plug it in set to lowest setting keep the top of so the hydrogen Can bubble off in to air after a week of that your rust will be on the piece of metal And the tank will be a black color without the rust works great.
Works really good on old rusty tools you can buy for nothing at flea markets and yard sales. It is like getting free tools.
Vinegar, Dude. I got vats of the stuff. Plus, you can cut it 100 percent with water, so getting coverage is easy and very inexpensive.
I use this Corroseal in fabrication ie on steel that is sat out in the rain and it works wonders on expanded metal mesh probably not the best thing to use inside of a gas tank but for treating rusted steel it is a almost permanent beautiful product
We have this special method of removing rust here in Milwaukee.... just drive your car for one winter and the rust will just disappear along with the body panel. Pro tip, make sure to drive over a few of our bathtub sized potholes to add some violent shaking for maximum effectiveness.
Apple cider vinegar and baking soda when mixed together and applied aka scrubbed with cheap toothbrush will clean and polish chrome and take off rust specs with out scratching up the chrome. the vinegar has a chemical reaction to the rusting process and neutralizes it .
Caswell tank sealer is the best I have found. Says it "repairs failed Kreem and POR15 sealers" right on the box.
Tony, I'm not sure how much salt you are adding, but it should be more than a pinch in that tub. Try a cup of salt to the gallon. It will keep the pH more stable, and the chloride (Chlorine ion in salt) should bind more readily with the iron in the rust. A little heat (a hot sidewalk works well) and agitation will help too. For agitation, go to a pet shop and get the cheapest submersible pump they have.
Another thing is the vinager is also better for the enviornment. You csb flush it down the drain
Evaporust removes rust, not oil., grease and KRUD! you need to degrease and clean the poop out of that old tank. once the evaporust can touch the rust it can dissolve it.
i took the tank off my 1969 d100 and filled it with apple cider vinegar and water 50/50 let it soak for 5 days,that tank was corroded bad,it was bad,nothing for 2 days then on the third and fourth day stuff floated to the top and what a mess,it cleaned the tank perfect,i flushed it 3 times with cold water let it set in the sun on a summer 100 degree day soon as it dried i shot two cans of pb blaster into it,set it up till my new carb arrived,added three see thru filter s in a row in line to the new pump,and two after the pump the filters are cheap and disposable,its still fires on the first spin,threw away 4 filters and left them in series as i'm letting the truck sit while i get the king pins installed,cost 20 bucks for the vinegar,when i threw it out killed a bunch of weeds with it,win win
There is a disclaimer on evapo rust that states it will not work on Tennessee rust. Or any other major state of the unions rust... Works best on rust from Asia Minor...
I did have good success with evaporust but the price was just not worthy.
I now use vinegar, the 7% one, 2 days and some brushing after a day is all you need. Not sure about the salt so I will investigate that one. Paint need to be removed for complete rust removal in every cases.
The problem with removing the rust is that the steel underneath has molecularly oxidized so painting over it if not necessarily the right so you should it will bubble back up corroseal dude I use it even when I have ground rust off of metal I coat it with rust converter so that stops future oxidation
had a friend do an atv tank for me. he used toilet bowl cleaner. the tank was clean enough to eat off when it was done. Probably very bad if you get it on painted surfaces though.
Use electrolysis I have a 350 gallon square tote that I use when cleaning rust grime oil ect. Works fantastic
Ultra Kathy and or uncle crystal UT said you were looking to make short videos I have two suggestions that you may have already in the works 1 make another channel called utg clips for said short videos 2 please make a short or clip of ut explaining ADD he hit the nail on the head
evaporust works well, if heavy rusted, brush it between treating. if tried vinegar and salt and could not get a equally as good of job
Thanks for passing on what you found; and in respect for limiting the comments, this tid-bit may be helpful to others or not. In Under-grad, w/ mixture chemistry they taught us that surface area exposure matters in terms of chemical reactions, especially as it relates to O2. Cliff notes: Consider in-tank anti-rust underwhelming; compared to the a 14" catch pan. Greater surface area to ambient gas may correlate to greater rust reductions-vis-a-vis potentiation of oxygenation. Citing specifically gun barrel blueing works much better in open top tub than a semi-closed tank. And in the nature of fun, we forget our 6th grade chemistry class that barometric Pressure @14.7 PSI often matters.
So how about an aquarium air pump bubbling in there, theoretically would that help do you think? Thanks!
The word is "Citing"....not "Siting".
Cliff notes: More simply put ... AERATION That bit of academia hurt my head deciphering it ...... admittedly I've been sick though.
@@ytwatcher8288 Interesting idea, my chemistry is a little poor, and I'm wondering if the oxygen would distribute evenly in the solution?
@@fireballxl-5748 Citing not siting excuse me.
I sed muriatic acid to clean mine, it's a milder acid they use for cleaning fresh can get it at any masonry supply
Hi uncle tony I had very good results with vinegar on parts for my montecarlo good video
I’ll add my two cents, what’s the temperature in your shop? I have used evaporust on several gas tanks. Ive found when using evaporust, the ambient temperature really affects it. What Ive noticed is the warmer it is, the better it works. Id say atleast 70° is best. Between 60-70 my results varied and below 60°, it almost never works for me.
Metal Rescue works the same way, the warmer it gets the better it works. It`s also important to fill motorcycle tanks completely full put in the sun all day, or run your heat gun on it and the rust dissolves, it is a little pricey but you can reuse it and get good mileage out of it.
@@Foontflaky I wonder how a submersible heater like you use in an aquarium would work.
@@aggiebq86 Prolly work great it would take awhile to warm up though, you can run the a hairdryer on it too, if you don`t have a heat gun, solar power works the best, it`s free!
try a none petroleum based degreaser inside the tank and clean it out. then re try the evaporust product. it won't clean the rust off if their traces of petroleum infill nside the tank
Use a clean scrubber for each for fair comparison 🤔
How about ducttape the tank for protection on the out side and then get it sodablasted on the inside to clean it up ? That should be doable
I restore cars as a full time job..electrolysis is the best method..2nd best is a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and acetone,I've had alot of luck with this combo including with 100+yr old cars I've dug out of the ground..uncle tony is like "they say try this and try that blah blah blah",he's good with using condiments for French fries so this comment is for the rest of you!
From the uk here tony and I`m an avid follower. BUT the test could have been better if you used a different scrubbing brush
If you use apple cider vinegar and fill the tank completely and let it sit and dump it out and refill it will definitely clean it out!
Just maybe sand and gravel with the solution in the gas tank shaking it really hard may get the rust out..
well maybe the evapo will eat the crap off the threads of the drain plug and let you remove it so you can do what you normally would do
IMO, with heavy rust like seen on that gas cap, you gotta have something to "brush" the inside with when you agitate it like your random nuts and bolts to get it to work quicker. I used the Evaporust to clean the tank on a "70 Duster that had been sitting since 1986. I put two gallons in along with a few handfuls of crushed landscaping granite. I would let it soak on one side for about an hour and then agitate the granite and then do the process again. After the second time I would rotate the tank so another surface was covered and do it all over again. In a day and a half the tank looked literally brand new. The metal was shiny and rust free like I just bought it. Give it a shot!
If I'm not mistaken didn't you say that you drove that thing around to show up
You can just use muriatic acid which is a lot cheaper I think a gallon is like $9 at Walmart
Check out the car s hood that you just used a work bench...... THAT IS THE REAL TEST
I mean unless you don't have the money and juat time vinegar is fine but id probably use some tolite bowl cleaner because of the smell but if you dont care about losing some more metal from using an acid id use muriatic acid and evaporust works its juat not fast but it isn't going to attack the good matel
Muriatic acid is by far the best rust remover quick and easy
take a shot every time Tony says evaporust! it's 6pm and I'm hammered ass drunk!
I
I believe you are making a mistake not removing the tank. You want a Home Depot product called Concrete and Metal Prep, who’s main ingredient is Phosphoric Acid. Attacks rust, not iron, properly mixed with water leaves a phosphate coating. I would carefully tape off the tank to protect it from the phosphoric acid (even though I don’t think it would hurt it) but mostly scratches. Just get some, it’s cheap and test it like you did the evaporust. You will be impressed. Read up on phosphoric acid a little as well. DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID. Yes it is strong and works well but it strips the surface of oxide protectant and rust will come back with a vengeance even if you pacify it with a caustic. Just don’t do it.
Those suggesting molasses or coke a cola the main ingredient is phosphoric acid.
The difference is vinegar can't discern the difference between iron oxide and steel. I convert people to evaporust but no one listens to me about patience in how to get the most out of it. They think you're only supposed to leave it in a wash for like 12 hours. No... Leave heavy corrosion in a bath for 72 hours.. it will not eat good metal or paint.. however... do this with vinegar? It eats the good metal. Evaporust works through chelation and only attacks iron oxide... this is important because in this bath you have? AS vinegar is surely eating iron oxide that freshly exposed metal is being now eaten at the same time... Obviously this may be a moot point depending on the integrity needed but for more intricate items or the principle of the thing I choose Evaporust. My mind has been blown by how thick of scale has come off of items. I some body insulator metal that looked like it was on the ocean floor and it still removed it all without hindering the good metal. Also non caustic is helpful.... I do also have the GEL in a big gallon bucket it does work but is a tough cleanup, I use like a bissel steamshot but it has helped me on a frame where I didn't want to just convert but after mechanically removing rust I had no way to get into pits... the Gel clung to the side ( without doing the paper towel saran wrap mess) and when i rinsed it sure enough there was black carbon of steel showing... great product either way.... for the record I have dissolved old tools in baths of apple cider vinegar and WD-40 I forgot about LOL I was pissed.
use atf to break down rust. according to my dad. . its almost unreal wat atf will do.
Might double strength vinegar work twice as well ??????
Rust911- makes 17 gallons for about $75
Would CLR work? Muriatic acid eats rust too.
Did you degrees first ??
Can’t beat good old muriatic acid. Dirt cheap and gets the job done.
The works toilet cleaner. Works for me
If it won't come out....just leave it in?
Toilet bowl cleaner works pretty good
I tried the evaporust on some parts, it did somewhere between jack shit and fuck all. I guess the rust here in the north is too much for it. Know what worked? The bead blaster.
I use muriatic acid. A few decades ago I soaked almost a whole VW bug in muriatic acid. It got rid of ALL the rust. I soak nuts and bolts and small parts in it, I have used it to remove rust from motorcycle tanks, very hard to beat. The only issue is not to leave it in a tank for too long, after it destroys the rust, it will continue eating through the metal.
I use it, also. Works great, but you have to monitor the time the part is in there.
Muriatic acid will leave chlorine ions on the surface of the metal, which will make it rust allot faster, so you have to wash, neutralize in an alkaline solution, was again and seal the surface pretty much immediately after taking it out of muriatic acid.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz Yes! Neutralize it or you will have trouble.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz That's true if you really want to do it right. Most of the time I just rinse the part really good and coat it with WD-40.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz in theory the best thing would be to use muriatic to break up almost all of the rust, rinse and scrub with baking soda to abrade any residual rust, clean up pitting, and neutralize, then some nice hot water and seal. In practice it's usually whatever you have handy and however you can get to it. A steel brush, brake cleaner, canned rust converter and some tractor paint is sometimes all you can do. Honey coat is another good option for stuff you can't reach I've heard, but I like the idea of converter and some heavy duty paint. The stuff I did the floors of my a-body in was great, some generic brush on tractor paint that settled out real flat and left a rubbery texture to it. Held up great to abuse when we had to hammer some of the trans tunnel for a modern trans to fit in and was walked on plenty without any real scratches.
Sodium chloride + acetic acid = sodium acetate + hydrochloric acid. It's the hydrochloric acid that dissolves the rust.
Vinegar guy here, can't afford evaporust in large quantities.
i use the apple cider 5 % solution works faster than the white vingar 3%
Molasses and water works amazing for fuel tanks! One part molasses to 9 parts water. Let it sit for a week. The inside of the tank will look brand new.
I've always used molasses and water for rust removal. That stuff will make the soles of your shoes melt over time
I'm a fan of molasses. I have a tote full of the mixture (10-1) that I've used for years. Doesn't wear out. Have used it to remove rust on all sorts of misc parts & pieces. The down side is it is slow which creates another problem, you can forget a part is in there. I have destroyed a few things as it will eventually eat all the metal.
After using vinegar on a tank once I am wary of it, it is an acid and will eat into the healthy steel along with the rust. I would never let it soak for more than 2 hrs. Evaporust on the other hand is not an acid, it chelates, and I much prefer it to vinegar. It is much easier to work with imo, the problem with vinegar is as soon as you drain it out, the tank will begin to flash rust almost immediately. You have to neutralize the acid by pouring water + baking soda into the tank. Reintroduction of water after rust removal will result in more flash rust in my experience, I strictly rinse with acetone, never water. There is no flash rust after draining evaporust, you can just rinse it out with acetone and it will remain rust free as long as you keep it dry, i don't even have to coat with oil. And yes evaporust will take off paint, gotta be very careful not to spill. In summary evaporust is worth it for the peace of mind that I know it cannot damage the healthy metal.
I can’t believe you’re doing this demo on the hood of a car !!
I've had a good experience with Evapo-Rust on parts used in old car restoration. According to the label, it "chelates" the rust. It doesn't remove or damage metal, unlike acid-based materials. It washes off well with soapy water. Evapo-Rust is fairly slow, however. It works fantastic in an ultrasonic cleaner with a bit of heat. Not sure, but my understanding is that it is molasses based. The same company also make a rust preventative coating that works really well. No, I don't get paid by them. I'm no expert, just trying to help someone else with my experience.
Used electrolysis on my 68 Dodge D200's tank. Looked at all the options and went that way because it's cheap. Old school battery charger, washing soda, a steel rod and water. Process is slow! Pulled the rod a couple times a day and cleaned it, for I don't know how many days.
Wasn't sure if it really worked until I did an acid rinse with a bit of muriatic. That shined it up, no rust inside.
Since then I've done other things, after their cleaned they're not real shiny but the rust is gone.
Actually thought about doing a video but there's a million of the already.
yup its slow but it'll get it ALL eventually.
I'd suggest using several graphite rods. They last much longer than anything else. I usually put one in each corner of the tank.
Vinegar is simply an acetic acid solution. Evaporust is a tannic acid solution. Krud Kutter is a phosphoric acid solution, which is more of a converter than a dissolver. The soultion with the highest acidity constant & molecular density will terminate rust the most efficiently. That solution is Tannic Acid or "Evaporust". It has an acidity constant of 6 compared to vinegar's 4.7. It has a density of 2.2 g/cm3 compared to acetic acid's 1.2g/cm3.
Nice comparison there Uncle Farm. The thing about Evaporust is that you can keep reusing it. I hope you didn't get rusty droplets all over the hood of the junkyard jet. I like the " scientific" videos.
There’s a pretty good projectfarm video on this subject, where he tries a few more products. Personally I’ve had pretty good luck with evaporust.
Problem is, I don't think the tank is just rust. It's got jelled up gas as well and evaporust is not going to be able to get to the rust because the rust is underneath the gas residue.
actually I've had really good results with "Pickling Vinegar" it has 7% acid and works very good rather than blowing money on expensive EVAPO RUST
@@Canadiancarguy1987 bang for the buck acetone and vinegar works. Better than paying local radiator/gas tank shops 160 bucks to “boil” it.
@@tarstarkusz I’ve used acetone and I try to catch as much of it as possible and even though it will be soiled I can use it on multiple gas tanks.
@@abeld.4008 well if you get a chance check out my Pickling Vinegar rust removal on here I got a play list for it I mean check it out see what you think I think it works pretty good for only 4 bucks a jug
NOPE. STOP. NEVER USE VINEGAR ON BRAKE OR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, it's an acid and higher carbon alloys will carburize, look up "nitrocarburization" you cannot use acids on them, that's why evaporust exists
He's talking about the gas tank...
Acetone works miracles first to remove varnished gas then hit it with vinegar for the rust.
This is spot on. You have to remove the varnish gas coating first.
Yep. Came here to say this.
If you don't get rid of the varnished up crud, the rust ain't going anywhere.
I just started using Evaporust and I love it. I use it for small parts. Bolts, nuts, brackets etc.
I will degrease beforehand with Dawn dish soap and a wire brush. If there's any paint I will sand that off also. I let parts soak for about 12 hours then wire brush to help it along. Then soak for another 12 hours. Wire brush again then rinse with water. Always turns out perfect. Like brand new!
I've used both of these (although I didn't put salt in the vinegar). In my experience both method work equally well, the evaporust is just faster.
Acidic solutions like vinegar and citric acid both need to be neutralised unless you want the rust reappearing.
I've never heard of adding salt to the vinegar. How much salt do you add?
@@CarsandCats I've never heard of it, but that's what Tony said and he has salt on the thing next to the vinegar.
@@CarsandCats Salt is neutral. It is formed from the reaction of acids and bases.
About a cup of salt to a gallon of vinegar.
Take his advise with a grain of salt,lol.
@@deliveryguyrx Hey, I'm an old, salty sailor.
Tony, my experience with a fuel tank is to put about a cup full of small gravel. Shake it around, turning the tank to get as much of the loose rust off. Shake out the gravel, rinse with water, then treat it. It seems to work a lot faster because it doesn't have as much rust to penetrate. Love your dedication to educate!
Attach it to a paint shaker with your rocks in it ?
@@cammontreuil7509 no sir. Just shake it around for a few minutes, maybe shake it around several different times. Just to get the large rust flakes broken up. Gets it closer to the inside surface. Then treat it the way you are doing it.
@@catbird1759 I'm sorta making a joke. But you have a good idea.
An old school machinist had a rock tumbler he would clean parts in it. He used rocks.
Yeah, using lead bb's with mineral spirits is what i heard.
Marbles work and you can get them out easier
Tony here is a great rust neutralizer . Its made by Loctite under the name "Loctite® Naval Jelly® Rust Dissolv"
It's hard to find but yeah it's great
That’s old school and it works.
You can make a simple vibrator from a 1/4 sheet sander and use velcro to attach to gas tank or container holding the solution. Cheaper than an ultrasonic bath.
Yes I like vinegar solutions, usually takes some time waiting on it.
I have had good luck with muriatic acid and water solution cleaning gas tanks. Flush out with baking soda and water. Dry well before flash rust forms and spray with WD-40 or something to coat the metal until you get gas back in the tank.
Great idea! lol. I gotta not convert everything to cordless.
Uncle Tony doesn't use a vibrator
@@DumPhuc
Guess you have not ridden an old Harley and why women did not mind riding the *itch pad.
Nice job Uncle Tony. Now, Project Farm (I really enjoy his channel) will do a test featuring 20 different rust removal methods, and he will show microscopic comparisons of each and every test. I say remove the tank, sand blast the inside as much as you can and coat it with a sealer several times. You can get that petcock out...one way or the other. It may involve a torch but, as you know, fill the tank with water first to make sure all gas fumes are gone..
I reuse my evapo liquid probably 10x. Which I’m sure you can do with vinegar to an extent. Vinegar also ruins paint over time. I use both.
Your crew has some great comments, covers the subject from top to bottom. I use Evaporust on old rusty micrometers and such. One nice thing about Harley Davidson gas tanks is the wall thickness is pretty beefy. I’ve cleaned many a Japanese gas tank and by the time the rust is gone you end up with a lawn sprinkler. ps: keep going and the petcock will come out eventually.
Maybe spray Kroil or whatever inside the tank and let it work into the tap's threads from the inside?
The success of Evaporust is directly related to the quality of the metal it is being used on, with the actual amount of IRON in the material being an important factor.
As for the sticky spots, you are supposed to rinse things with water when you are done, meaning also the sticky parts will wipe off with water. Sounds counterintuitive, but that is how it works. Just dry the stuff after. Also, You can REUSE the evaporust until it doesn't work right anymore. Keep a seperate jug and poor the used stuff in, reuse it some other time, add a dash of new water to it. I have found it works fine until it is so black you can't see in it anymore at all and you have diluted it by about 20% to keep it from getting thicker. At that time, performance drops off enough to throw it out.
Sheet metal? Not really that great, most sheet metal is not pure iron because it would be brittle. Depending on the type of steel alloy though, it can be effective, all you can do is try. i put some on some surface rust spots in the trunk of my Monaco Police(in the little grooves in the trunk floor, nothing scaly) and a day later i soaked it up with a rag, dunked a clean one in water, wiped the grooves out and they were shiny like new. Dried, primed, painted. I have also had it not work well enough on other areas or projects to consider it a success, but I just wiped it off and nothing lost but a couple dollars of stuff for the attempt.
Old metal tools, frame brackets, etc? HELL YEAH, the stuff is like some kind of alien juice brought back from the future. I dropped all kinds of hand tools into it from the 60's and 70's and they came out perfect. What really surprised me though, was some seriously old iron tools I did. The best example was a 1920's era grinding wheel dressing tool(the little spur on a handle looking jobber) That was just solid rust. Not flaking off type, but just solid rust, enough you couldn't really tell what the raised letter branding on the handle was anymore, but at the same time, the type of rust you get on things that have been handled... you know, sort of "buffed" rust on iron, smooth to the touch yet completely rusted if that makes sense.
I dumped that thing in a tote for two days, came back, brushed it with a soft brush and rinsed it in water.
Not kidding, the thing was unrecognizable. It had SILVER PAINT on it. There was absolutely NO INDICATION that this tool was ever painted much less still had some. When I put it into the stuff. My jaw dropped.
I rinse the stuff with water as the directions state, blow it off with air, then hose it down with a squirt bottle of WD40 and lay it on a rag to "dry". The grinder dressing tool has kept it's new lease on life so far for a year this way in my tool box.
I also did an authentic Swiss knife I got at the flea market for a dime. It was RUST. No way to open it, no way to even see what all blades etc were in it, but it did have the little logo on it so I went for it. Soaked that one for a week, brushing once a day. Got to the point I could wiggle the blades, and the rust was pretty well gone from the outer surface though it was obviously pitted in areas. Dunked the thing in a pan with some fancy oil from an industrial machine at work(the $16 a gallon kind) for 2 days, then hosed it with WD40 to rinse it, got the blades to at least pull open. Back into evaporust to clear them off better and get into the grooves. After another two days, and some more lube, I got the two big blades to work(one is this wicked "Eagles claw" hook type blade) the rest woouldn't open fully, but one of the spring tabs was bent so I gave up on the bottle opener parts. Knife is ugly, but I haven't tried a metal polish wheel on it yet, but after a 5 minute dress the hook blade is sharp AF.
So anyway, I am a believer in the stuff. But I think it has it's uses, and sheet metal is pretty hit and miss for it. Just don;t forget you can REUSE IT! Save the stuff for a second and third project! Rinse with water(and WD40!)
You know your stuff man. But i got question. About cleaning the coolant system from rust. I already used coolant flush product, but it states it removes gunk, grease and dirt , NOT RUST. Some old school mechanics told me to use 50/50 water/vinegar , but i'm afraid of the vinegar to make holes in radiators and such. Do you think EVAPORUST will work as coolant system rust remover? PS: I'm talking about all aluminium engine.👍
@@petar443 Wow, I had never thought of that. I honestly don't know, but I don't think it would take oxidation off of aluminum very well. it is more for iron and steel type of materials. Most people I have seen with really dirty coolant will run a flush more then once though, flush, rinse, flush, rinse, etc. Don't forget the heater! You need to turn the car heat on to get the heater core flushed too. If you live in a warm area you can just run regular plain water to get the flush product out in between. There are videos about it, some of them get some really gunky engines cleaned out nice.
Good luck! if you find something that works great, make sure to share!
Vinegar can be reused as well. I have done it many times and for the cost will continue to use it as my go to rust remover
@@todddenio3200 True but vinegar seems to have less magic in it before it is consumed... although I have only used it where there was some calcium buildup with the rust... maybe the calcium reaction uses the acetic acid faster than straight rust.
@@petar443 The problem I have with vinegar is it eats the metal. Yes no a lot. But it etches the metal created many many many many more points for rust to form. Evaporust wont. For your aluminum I would assume you are going to run a rust preventative/lubricant or coolant after so long term rusting wont be a problem. Personally I would run the car with 50 50 vinegar... let it idle and heat up then let it sit and repeat. It will take a day at least. Then rinse it would really well. If you can remove a thermostat housing or something else you can check your results.
UTG results were not typical. I dont know how long he let it set or how warm the shop is but I have found evaporust to work very well and pretty quickly. I also used similar products from Lloyds and POR15 also has a prep. But that POR15 rust remover etched the crap out of the parts when I forgot about them for a few days.
in the uk we have a product called Hammerite Kurust and omg its amazing. rust will turn to paintable metal in a few hours and stable surface in 15mins
Something I discovered in my old age. Don't bother with food grade white vinegar, use Cleaning vinegar. you can get it at most grocery stores and find it in the cleaning supplies isle. It's almost twice as strong as food grade vinegar. Also great to remove rust from burned off paint on your car. I have a '91 D150 short bed that the roof was sollid rust. rather than sanding it and risk warpage (something I saw my friend do to the hood of his Chevy Suburban years earlier) I bought a bunch of cheap white towels, laid them on the roof, soak them with cleaning vinegar straight out of the jug (no salt) and covered the soaked towels with plastic to keep them from drying out. I left it for 4 days, not on purpose, it just happened that way, when I uncovered the towels, I went to remove them and all of the rust stuck to the towels. The sheet metal looked like it did the day it was stamped at the factory! I then washed the roof with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar. I got sidetracked and didn't work on the truck for 6 months, you know how that shit goes. The pickup sat out in the weather. After 6 months, it was still shiney metal, no sign of rust at all, I buzzed it down with 180, primered it and gave it a coat of paint to seal it. Cleaning vinegar is still my go to rust remover