One thing I've done with mine Michael is that I used some UV Lights and when you do prints with glow in the dark filament is is absolutely amazing to see. The UV Lights (as I'm sure you already know) really charge up glow in the dark material faster and with more intensity. It is really cool watching it print that way. If you haven't tried it give it a go you won't regret it.
Time Stamp. 3.03 "wires on the left" should be on the RIGHT..... might need to put a balloon up on the screen for this one! 😄 I'm probably not the only one to spot this but only just seen this. Brilliant videos as always , thanks for the hard works that you put in to make these for us, always appreciative of your reviews especially now I hit 60 !! Regards from Barcelona.... Neil.
I just finished installing the Printermods kit on my Ender 3 and they both went in nicely. The included installation instructions are okay but this video was a very helpful addition. When installing the hot end kit, I found it a little easier to remove the 4 screws holding in the hot end fan and work with the splice outside the shroud. When installing the rail kit, I raised the X gantry all the way to the top before loosening and removing the top rail screws. I don't know if it helped keep my vertical rails parallel but it made me feel like I attempted to keep them straight. The lights look great and the hot end light is especially useful. Thanks for the video.
Good information for my Ender 3. The bed heater mosfet was damaged by ESD. I used pin 29 to control the BED HEATER. #define HEATER_BED_PIN 29 (SANGUINOLOLU_11.h) #define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING, (Configuration.h) I used a 2N2222 to control a 24Vcoil 10ADC relay. The Marlin default is 2C hysteresis which switches the relay about every 1m15sec. Thanks for the pin29 information.
Been thinking of a lighting setup so I don't have to rely on a small flashlight, the first kit featured looks like it will fit the bill perfect, stupid easy to install, and priced right. On my shopping list!
I used rigid led strip in a simple casing and two sided tape but i did add a separate power supply that just about fitted inside the power supply cover. I also added a rocker switch to the power supply cover. It is much better now that i can have lights without having the printer powered on, makes working on it SO much easier. The printer is usually in my bedroom, the led light has been more used than other lights in the room, it isn't too bright, just perfect when you are going to sleep but still bright enough that it provides general lighting for the printer. I'm going to add 1W led beside the hotend, i need to just think how i want to do it, it will take power from the printer PSU. As for cabling: buy flat cables.. they are very handy when you use Dupont connectors. You won't have the horrible looking three separate wires but one flat cable. Takes a bit of practice to get it looking nice, you can't fail with any of the the duponts or you have to do that end all over again.
Strongly advise avoiding that crimp connector he features here on his ender 5 hotend!!! When you pull the wires from the fan retention clip to have enough room for the crimp connector, it becomes extremely easy to pull the wires off of the fan's circuit board. The wires then cannot be soldered back onto the board, and then the fan must be replaced. As an alternative, it is much better to cut the wires further back and use a JST crimp set to make and install a JST socket and splitter to support both connections. Not only does this support the LEDs, but it also gives you a means to easily swap your hotend fan if/when needed. Understand that many people are turned off by the though of crimping or soldering, but if you rip the wires out of your fan its going to be a bad day if you don't have a spare....
I just purchased the hot end and v slot lights. I am printing in an office with a crappy light and right now using a very hot and bright desk lamp. This will hopefully look a lot better and clean up my area. This is my first printer but I have messed around with one at my tech school. I was using a mojo and a MakerBot replicator printer at school and I have the ender 3.
I was just working on adding in LED's to my machine today lol... Looks great man! I bought a couple white LED rings (60mm OD / 45mm ID) a few weeks back so I was making changes to add a round inset channel to the bottom of the Hero Me duct and modified my electronics box to add a switch and potentiometer to the front so I can adjust the brightness quick and easy. I might add the neopixels in the top 2020 extrusion as well, the color change functionality looks awesome!
I have the hotend LED version from PrinterMods and love it! But I think I will wire it to my RAMPS 1.6 board so I can turn it off an on as I please vs with the cooling fan as the voltage varies depending on the speed you want the fan to run so the LED lights vary in brightness. For now it work but it'll be easy enoough to run to the pins on the board so I can trigger it with code in Octoprint or on the mobile version you can setup a button to run the command for on and off. Nice video!
I have a CR20 Pro. I want to add some cob LEDs along the rails and hot-end. There are empty spots on my main board (Creality v2.1), an extra fan or two. Could I directly connect the LEDs straight to one of the empty fan ports (with a JST connector) and then turn the LEDs on by turning the "fan" on?
Recently purchased the “PrinterMods” LED kit .love it but the hot end should have some type off switch so u can turn it on and off as well . Hopefully there’s a solution to it soon!.
3D PropCon I agree. I just got everything hooked up and mounted. The top bar lights are perfect, but the hot end lights are too bright overall. The ability to turn them off and/or dim them would be very welcomed.
Good evening, I have a motherboard BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0, I would also like to put it, but, my leds strip is in 12 flights, can I connect it to the card or it is worth that I avoid, and, to pass by another means? Thanks for the answer.
Thanks for al the awesome videos! Could you possibly do a tutorial on how to set up neopixels with an SKR mini e3 V2.0 board and Marlin 2.0.7.2? I'm having a really hard time just getting the firmware to compile and I've already successfully compiled for various changes such as BTT smart filament runout sensor, EZABL Pro, Ender Extender 400 XL, SKR Mini board and TFT35 touchscreen. Thanks in advance!
The Arduino Neopixel strip link is not working anymore. Trying to decide which to buy. WS2812B RGB LED Strip Individually Addressable 144Pixels IP30 12V is what I am leaning towards. Yes/No?
Yet another wonderful video. Can you make a video about installing neopixel on skr 1.3 board that also has bltouch. I have tried many things but none works. I tried connecting bltouch to z-max and move led to the servo pins. When I did that bltouch did not work. Any help on this will be much appreciated.
I purchased the printermods led set for my CR10S PRO. Unfortunately the cable is not long enough and they don't sale extensions. Do you have any recommendations for extensions for their lights?
Hey what's the deal with the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 and neopixel it doesn't work !!!!!!!!!! Once you set it up in Marlin you go to compile and FAIL FAIL if you take away the NeoPixel setup it compiles fine ? Thanks
I just got my kit from PrinterMods today, followed your guide and the instructions (sliding it in backwards, wires first), and my led strip broke :( I think it wasn't soldered correctly. I emailed the company, Im hoping that they will send me a replacement as I was very excited for this mod.
I tried following the advanced guide using neopixels. You mentioned that if I use analog LEDs I will require a mosfet. The Marlin code says I'll require one either way. When I tried to plug the LEDs into the printer as described, the printer shuts down until I unplug them. Do I need a mosfet, and if so, how do I wire it?
So I would like to do something like this on my ender 3 v2 with the 4.2.7 mainboard. I have a bltouch install. I would like yo try and use the zstop pins to control it. Is this possible?
Yes I installed my neopixels the same kind he used in video I did what I was supposed to do in firmware but when it comes on it goes thru the colors but not white and the printer events don’t work no blue to pink to red or whatever the colors while heating the bed or hot end what am I doing wrong I have the BTT SKR v1.4 turbo with 2209 steppers and it has a neopixel pin built in and the pin is set correctly
i have so many grabage connected to my PSU that i don't have terminals left :s I even put wires in a few of the exisiting ones. I really need to solder an extension board to just get a terminal but that's more space and fiddly stuff hanging from my printer :s also damn those connectors are so cool. do you know what they're called? I always do it with soldering and it makes a mess :s
I can't get the heatshroud on with that coupler inside it...mine looks exactly like yours does but i can't line up the screw holes and the two red wires for the hotend seem like they'd be smashed against the red heatdsink if i did
So, if i remove the "sequential led" definition, it treats the strip as a single led? Which is the sign of the led driver? (from digital to pwm RGB of single strip) Thank you!
Iv'e literally been thinking about doing this to my Ender 3 the whole day. But with Octoprint. Couldn't you use a pushbutton, connected to the Raspsberry Pi and make it turn on a mosfet which runs the LED circuit, turn on/off through wifi and even through the tft28?
I want to add 1meter of neopixels to my printer. I have skr 1.4 turbo. THe LEDs need 3.5a 5v power. Can I pull that much from the Neopixel 5v line or should I pull 5v from outside source?
What are the dimensions of the Printermods for Hot End (2nd item shown) LED board? I need to determine if this will fit on the underside of my fang duct.
I bought a USB LED lamp and got an adapter down to mini USB, but then I found out the Ender3 mini USB doesn't have power. DOH!. The LEDs near the hot end looks good.
"edit configuration.h" How? Is this something I plug my pc into the mainboard to edit? I'm looking at possibly hours of trying to figure out github and compiling firmware and possibly having to reconfigure everything, like my pid and my estrps and my BLtouch?? Just to change the amount of lights to more than ten?
Because the firmware gets compiled, there is no way to read it back, so if you want to change something you have flash completely. It's best to save the config before you flash so you know all the parameters
You edit configuration.h by downloading marlin and opening it in vscode with the Platformio extension. I was a newbie at this just a couple weeks ago as well and you will have lots of fun poking around in the firmware and seeing all the different builds that people have for their ender 3 or whatever printer you have. Here are some guides that helped me, but these are rather personalized as its for the ender 3 with the skrmini e3 mainboard. www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/dojh3v/guide_for_those_upgrading_to_an_skr_e3_mini_v12/ www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/e894j7/marlin_20x_guide_for_ender_3_using_skr_mini_e3_v12/ im sorry if these didnt help but you can always look it up on youtube or someplace else and you can ask about it on forums such as r/3dprinting or r/ender3 if you have one. Hope you have a good time modding and printing!
The product links are not what you used, so I ordered the wrong kit. The neopixel strips you used are not 30 per meter or weather proof as per the link, they are probably 60 per meter. Wish I had known that before buying. Great videos but please don’t post links to parts you didn’t use and are not fit for the application you are demonstrating. Thanks.
Does anyone know if this P3 header (or a different one) on the Creality V4.2.2 board can be used to drive Neopixels as was described here with the unused P29 on the V1.1.2 board?
I followed the instruction to implement the neopixels. Now I have a dead motherboard. This is what I did and what happened: I use Marlin 1.1.9 and an Ender 3 with board V1.1.4 I installed: 10 Neo-Pixels RGB WS2812B Digitale Led Strip Ultra Bright SMD5050 5V, triggered from pin 29. Changed configuration.h as followes: // Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver #define NEOPIXEL_LED #if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRB // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h) #define NEOPIXEL_PIN 29 // LED driving pin on motherboard 4 => D4 (EXP2-5 on Printrboard) / 30 => PC7 (EXP3-13 on Rumba) #define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 10 // Number of LEDs in the strip // #define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once. #define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127 // Initial brightness (0-255) #define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST // Cycle through colors at startup #endif Library installed: Adafruit NeoPixel by Adafruit Version 1.1.8 Compiling and flash went ok. Thereafter I got on my windows PC an message about to much current over usb. Then Ender 3 board died! I don't know why this happened. I'am affraid to implement this again with a new SKR Mini E3 motherboard that's already ordered. Someone who can help?
It is now known what happened. When soldering pin 29, a bit of solder tin may have fallen on the part fan connector and has therefore made a short circuit. I had meanwhile removed the old motherboard and ordered a new one. I replaced the “Old” motherboard and everything works perfectly again. All in all am happy again with the Ender 3.
Did you buy the 24v instead of the 12v if you're in America? If so you might have been trying to draw WAY too much power and it caused it to overdraw and blow it up
@@ParrishT3 I made sure I got the 24V by checking on the LED's. I contacted printer mods customer support and they graciously sent me another one. The switch for the LED's started smoking so it might've been a bad switch??
2:44 it will woble.thats why you have so many printers need upgrade until you get perfect printer. why they sell perfect printer. you would not need new upgrade anymore. reenforge it lol
HAHHAA All I did is get a set of RGBIC LED's that are WIFI.. added them to the printer Now I just say.. HEY GOOGLE TURN ON MY PRINTER!!.. and BOOM!! it's on and can change color make the lights dance to the sounds as well.. :) total cost $27.00
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing I've done with mine Michael is that I used some UV Lights and when you do prints with glow in the dark filament is is absolutely amazing to see. The UV Lights (as I'm sure you already know) really charge up glow in the dark material faster and with more intensity. It is really cool watching it print that way. If you haven't tried it give it a go you won't regret it.
Sorry for asking 7 months later but do you put the uv light right at the hotend?
Time Stamp. 3.03 "wires on the left" should be on the RIGHT..... might need to put a balloon up on the screen for this one! 😄
I'm probably not the only one to spot this but only just seen this. Brilliant videos as always , thanks for the hard works that you put in to make these for us, always appreciative of your reviews especially now I hit 60 !!
Regards from Barcelona....
Neil.
Yep, pity it hasnt been updated in this time.
I just finished installing the Printermods kit on my Ender 3 and they both went in nicely. The included installation instructions are okay but this video was a very helpful addition. When installing the hot end kit, I found it a little easier to remove the 4 screws holding in the hot end fan and work with the splice outside the shroud. When installing the rail kit, I raised the X gantry all the way to the top before loosening and removing the top rail screws. I don't know if it helped keep my vertical rails parallel but it made me feel like I attempted to keep them straight. The lights look great and the hot end light is especially useful. Thanks for the video.
Bought the regular kits for the hot end and rail because lighting is an issue in my room. I can't wait to get this set up and ready.
3:00
Just so newbies know the 2 pins
(marked "N" and "L")
on the RIGHT are HIGH voltage!!!!
Not the left!!
I'm surprised this wasn't corrected and re-uploaded or a caption thrown on.
Good information for my Ender 3. The bed heater mosfet was damaged by ESD. I used pin 29 to control the BED HEATER. #define HEATER_BED_PIN 29 (SANGUINOLOLU_11.h) #define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING, (Configuration.h) I used a 2N2222 to control a 24Vcoil 10ADC relay. The Marlin default is 2C hysteresis which switches the relay about every 1m15sec.
Thanks for the pin29 information.
Been thinking of a lighting setup so I don't have to rely on a small flashlight, the first kit featured looks like it will fit the bill perfect, stupid easy to install, and priced right. On my shopping list!
I used rigid led strip in a simple casing and two sided tape but i did add a separate power supply that just about fitted inside the power supply cover. I also added a rocker switch to the power supply cover. It is much better now that i can have lights without having the printer powered on, makes working on it SO much easier. The printer is usually in my bedroom, the led light has been more used than other lights in the room, it isn't too bright, just perfect when you are going to sleep but still bright enough that it provides general lighting for the printer.
I'm going to add 1W led beside the hotend, i need to just think how i want to do it, it will take power from the printer PSU.
As for cabling: buy flat cables.. they are very handy when you use Dupont connectors. You won't have the horrible looking three separate wires but one flat cable. Takes a bit of practice to get it looking nice, you can't fail with any of the the duponts or you have to do that end all over again.
Do you have photos of your printer posted anywhere ? And could you provide links ? Thank you in advance
Strongly advise avoiding that crimp connector he features here on his ender 5 hotend!!!
When you pull the wires from the fan retention clip to have enough room for the crimp connector, it becomes extremely easy to pull the wires off of the fan's circuit board. The wires then cannot be soldered back onto the board, and then the fan must be replaced.
As an alternative, it is much better to cut the wires further back and use a JST crimp set to make and install a JST socket and splitter to support both connections.
Not only does this support the LEDs, but it also gives you a means to easily swap your hotend fan if/when needed.
Understand that many people are turned off by the though of crimping or soldering, but if you rip the wires out of your fan its going to be a bad day if you don't have a spare....
Great tutorial Michael. Who doesn't love LEDs.
Absolutely the very best video on this subject
I just purchased the hot end and v slot lights. I am printing in an office with a crappy light and right now using a very hot and bright desk lamp. This will hopefully look a lot better and clean up my area. This is my first printer but I have messed around with one at my tech school. I was using a mojo and a MakerBot replicator printer at school and I have the ender 3.
This is the better solution I ever seen.....clean, clever and effective!
I bought it 👍🇮🇹
Looks doable... ordered my lights today. Thanks!
I was just working on adding in LED's to my machine today lol... Looks great man! I bought a couple white LED rings (60mm OD / 45mm ID) a few weeks back so I was making changes to add a round inset channel to the bottom of the Hero Me duct and modified my electronics box to add a switch and potentiometer to the front so I can adjust the brightness quick and easy. I might add the neopixels in the top 2020 extrusion as well, the color change functionality looks awesome!
Me, awake at 4:00 AM:
I wonder if there’s any chance that there’s a RUclips tutorial on controlling LEDs with GCode.
Teaching Tech:
I gotchu, fam.
I think the splicing connectors are called "Scotch Locks"
I have the hotend LED version from PrinterMods and love it! But I think I will wire it to my RAMPS 1.6 board so I can turn it off an on as I please vs with the cooling fan as the voltage varies depending on the speed you want the fan to run so the LED lights vary in brightness. For now it work but it'll be easy enoough to run to the pins on the board so I can trigger it with code in Octoprint or on the mobile version you can setup a button to run the command for on and off. Nice video!
Cheers bro, just what ive been looking for, as i am a novice printer
I have a CR20 Pro. I want to add some cob LEDs along the rails and hot-end. There are empty spots on my main board (Creality v2.1), an extra fan or two. Could I directly connect the LEDs straight to one of the empty fan ports (with a JST connector) and then turn the LEDs on by turning the "fan" on?
Exactly what i was looking for - Thanks!
Recently purchased the “PrinterMods” LED kit .love it but the hot end should have some type off switch so u can turn it on and off as well . Hopefully there’s a solution to it soon!.
3D PropCon I agree. I just got everything hooked up and mounted. The top bar lights are perfect, but the hot end lights are too bright overall. The ability to turn them off and/or dim them would be very welcomed.
@@jayphilbin2871 @3d propcon Are you guys still happy with the LED's? Also not having it on the sides does it look funny (dark)? tks!
@@armani007E55 I ended up removing the lights on the hot end. They were way too bright when it came to photographing or videoing the action.
I like the background music
Good evening, I have a motherboard BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0, I would also like to put it, but, my leds strip is in 12 flights, can I connect it to the card or it is worth that I avoid, and, to pass by another means?
Thanks for the answer.
Perfekt Video!!!! Great.
Nice easy mod!
Thanks for al the awesome videos! Could you possibly do a tutorial on how to set up neopixels with an SKR mini e3 V2.0 board and Marlin 2.0.7.2? I'm having a really hard time just getting the firmware to compile and I've already successfully compiled for various changes such as BTT smart filament runout sensor, EZABL Pro, Ender Extender 400 XL, SKR Mini board and TFT35 touchscreen. Thanks in advance!
Is there a way to use octoprint to actually control the leds like you would on a pc.. Change it up different cycles.. Rainbow etc?
Mind reader. I was just looking for this after upgrading my S5 to mks. Thanks!
The Arduino Neopixel strip link is not working anymore. Trying to decide which to buy. WS2812B RGB LED Strip Individually Addressable 144Pixels IP30 12V is what I am leaning towards. Yes/No?
Yet another wonderful video. Can you make a video about installing neopixel on skr 1.3 board that also has bltouch. I have tried many things but none works. I tried connecting bltouch to z-max and move led to the servo pins. When I did that bltouch did not work. Any help on this will be much appreciated.
I was going to ask the same thing hopefully we can get a response
Very nice. Thanks!
Thanks I just bought one of the kits.
I purchased the printermods led set for my CR10S PRO. Unfortunately the cable is not long enough and they don't sale extensions. Do you have any recommendations for extensions for their lights?
I have the same printer what did you do instead?
Hey what's the deal with the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 and neopixel it doesn't work !!!!!!!!!! Once you set it up in Marlin you go to compile and FAIL FAIL if you take away the NeoPixel setup it compiles fine ? Thanks
Michael, nice video, ¿in the 4.2.7 creality board, can add the neopixel leds?
I just got my kit from PrinterMods today, followed your guide and the instructions (sliding it in backwards, wires first), and my led strip broke :( I think it wasn't soldered correctly. I emailed the company, Im hoping that they will send me a replacement as I was very excited for this mod.
My led strip from them is shutting my whole printer down. Did you get a response from them?
@@gromzuk No I never got a response...it's been a long now which is pretty annoying.
I tried following the advanced guide using neopixels. You mentioned that if I use analog LEDs I will require a mosfet. The Marlin code says I'll require one either way. When I tried to plug the LEDs into the printer as described, the printer shuts down until I unplug them.
Do I need a mosfet, and if so, how do I wire it?
Nice project
Thanks for sharing👍😀
So I would like to do something like this on my ender 3 v2 with the 4.2.7 mainboard. I have a bltouch install. I would like yo try and use the zstop pins to control it. Is this possible?
What if you have 12V nonRGB LED strips?
Yes I installed my neopixels the same kind he used in video I did what I was supposed to do in firmware but when it comes on it goes thru the colors but not white and the printer events don’t work no blue to pink to red or whatever the colors while heating the bed or hot end what am I doing wrong I have the BTT SKR v1.4 turbo with 2209 steppers and it has a neopixel pin built in and the pin is set correctly
it,s about time to make it simple.
Dont quite understand why but the LED kit from Printer Mod for the hot end does not work.. Clamp sealed and color coded but no lights..
Is it possible to buy this lighting from aliexpress because I need it to Europe? and I am asking because the shipping is from this side to me?
Hi! Regarding resin printers like anycubic photon, any idea? Thanks
Neat I might have order
Do you know how i can configure neopixels on my SKR 2 with Klipper and Mainsail Os? Can you explain the wiring and the printer.cfg? Tahnk you🙂
My next video is actually on neolpixels
i have so many grabage connected to my PSU that i don't have terminals left :s I even put wires in a few of the exisiting ones. I really need to solder an extension board to just get a terminal but that's more space and fiddly stuff hanging from my printer :s
also damn those connectors are so cool. do you know what they're called? I always do it with soldering and it makes a mess :s
I'm still waiting on my neopixels to come in but what gauge wire did you use for the extension from the hot end to the board?
Anyone know where to get these kits from in 2024? Printermods website appears to be down?
i using creality 4.2.7 board (running Klipper) can use for Neopixel ?
I can't get the heatshroud on with that coupler inside it...mine looks exactly like yours does but i can't line up the screw holes and the two red wires for the hotend seem like they'd be smashed against the red heatdsink if i did
will a factory board on a 10s pro ii be complicated as well?
Hello, is the infinite cube that we see at 6:04 printed, if so where can we find the file please?
So, if i remove the "sequential led" definition, it treats the strip as a single led? Which is the sign of the led driver? (from digital to pwm RGB of single strip)
Thank you!
I have fallowed the guide, but my neopixels doesn't light up at all, i'm using pin 29 and ISP pin but nothing is happening :(
can you adjust brightness with printermods led kits
No
The Pin29 on the stock melzy baord will work just as on/off. We cant manage RGB because Pin29 doen't have PWM.
Is there a possibility to run neopixel on Octoprint?
Any risk or misalignment when removing the top extrusion? There are several STLs on thingiverse that don't require unbolting the top.
Iv'e literally been thinking about doing this to my Ender 3 the whole day. But with Octoprint. Couldn't you use a pushbutton, connected to the Raspsberry Pi and make it turn on a mosfet which runs the LED circuit, turn on/off through wifi and even through the tft28?
I want to add 1meter of neopixels to my printer. I have skr 1.4 turbo. THe LEDs need 3.5a 5v power. Can I pull that much from the Neopixel 5v line or should I pull 5v from outside source?
Outside. You can use a voltage converter for 24 to 5v and pull right off the power supply. To the converter. To the lights
Are there any kits you know of for 10S pro vs2
FYI: 12 or 24v are not dangerous, if you happen to touch them then whatever.
Hi,
I wonder if th3d supports neopixels. Thanks in advance 😁
And for the tmc 2130’s would’t it be better just to buy a Einsy Rambo that already come’s with the stepper drivers
What are the dimensions of the Printermods for Hot End (2nd item shown) LED board? I need to determine if this will fit on the underside of my fang duct.
Do we need to activate #define LED_CONTROL_MENU in configuration_adv.h please? Thanks a lot!
I wouldn't use those "automotive" crush connectors because you can't verify the integrity of your connection without negating it.
Do you have the link to your power supply cover?
hiya where do i find if its 24 or 12vs. thanks Shane
I bought a USB LED lamp and got an adapter down to mini USB, but then I found out the Ender3 mini USB doesn't have power. DOH!. The LEDs near the hot end looks good.
"edit configuration.h"
How?
Is this something I plug my pc into the mainboard to edit?
I'm looking at possibly hours of trying to figure out github and compiling firmware and possibly having to reconfigure everything, like my pid and my estrps and my BLtouch?? Just to change the amount of lights to more than ten?
Because the firmware gets compiled, there is no way to read it back, so if you want to change something you have flash completely. It's best to save the config before you flash so you know all the parameters
You edit configuration.h by downloading marlin and opening it in vscode with the Platformio extension. I was a newbie at this just a couple weeks ago as well and you will have lots of fun poking around in the firmware and seeing all the different builds that people have for their ender 3 or whatever printer you have. Here are some guides that helped me, but these are rather personalized as its for the ender 3 with the skrmini e3 mainboard. www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/dojh3v/guide_for_those_upgrading_to_an_skr_e3_mini_v12/
www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/e894j7/marlin_20x_guide_for_ender_3_using_skr_mini_e3_v12/
im sorry if these didnt help but you can always look it up on youtube or someplace else and you can ask about it on forums such as r/3dprinting or r/ender3 if you have one.
Hope you have a good time modding and printing!
The product links are not what you used, so I ordered the wrong kit. The neopixel strips you used are not 30 per meter or weather proof as per the link, they are probably 60 per meter. Wish I had known that before buying. Great videos but please don’t post links to parts you didn’t use and are not fit for the application you are demonstrating. Thanks.
Does anyone know if this P3 header (or a different one) on the Creality V4.2.2 board can be used to drive Neopixels as was described here with the unused P29 on the V1.1.2 board?
did you get an answer to this? ive just set up a v4.2.7 and wanting to know te same
Awesome I just spent 30$ on led kits . Hahah thanks
is there a mount for this cr10s pro ?
Which voltage one should I get for the ender 3 pro. I wanna get the hot end one
24v
*make detail video on newest tevo tarantula pro 2019*
that nozzle 10:30
Ya, nobody is going to do this, it's shameful that most manufactures don't include a nozzle light
7:18 looks like blue wire came off LED strip...
It doesn’t seem too hard to make the first mod yourself.
i just strapped a torch
Nice! And on the 3d printer? :D :D (ok ok I get my coat and leave)
Those wires are too damn short for mine....:(
I followed the instruction to implement the neopixels.
Now I have a dead motherboard.
This is what I did and what happened:
I use Marlin 1.1.9 and an Ender 3 with board V1.1.4
I installed: 10 Neo-Pixels RGB WS2812B Digitale Led Strip Ultra Bright SMD5050 5V, triggered from pin 29.
Changed configuration.h
as followes:
// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver
#define NEOPIXEL_LED
#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED)
#define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRB // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h)
#define NEOPIXEL_PIN 29 // LED driving pin on motherboard 4 => D4 (EXP2-5 on Printrboard) / 30 => PC7 (EXP3-13 on Rumba)
#define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 10 // Number of LEDs in the strip
// #define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once.
#define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127 // Initial brightness (0-255)
#define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST // Cycle through colors at startup
#endif
Library installed:
Adafruit NeoPixel by Adafruit Version 1.1.8
Compiling and flash went ok. Thereafter I got on my windows PC an message about to much current over usb. Then Ender 3 board died!
I don't know why this happened.
I'am affraid to implement this again with a new SKR Mini E3 motherboard that's already ordered.
Someone who can help?
It is now known what happened. When soldering pin 29, a bit of solder tin may have fallen on the part fan connector and has therefore made a short circuit. I had meanwhile removed the old motherboard and ordered a new one. I replaced the “Old” motherboard and everything works perfectly again. All in all am happy again with the Ender 3.
@@jan.walhof Did you try to set it up again on a new board? I have used pin29 but my neopixels doesn't light up at all :(
Looks like someone needs to clean their nozzle. :-)
Does WS2812B works?
Yeah it works for sure. Just make sure your wiring is going in the input side.
I don't know what I did wrong... My ender 3's power supply literally went up in smoke after doing this...
Did you buy the 24v instead of the 12v if you're in America? If so you might have been trying to draw WAY too much power and it caused it to overdraw and blow it up
@@ParrishT3 I made sure I got the 24V by checking on the LED's. I contacted printer mods customer support and they graciously sent me another one. The switch for the LED's started smoking so it might've been a bad switch??
Also, the Ender 3 is a 24V printer, isn't it?
2:44 it will woble.thats why you have so many printers need upgrade until you get perfect printer. why they sell perfect printer. you would not need new upgrade anymore. reenforge it lol
Great idea but when “Printermods” want $13+ for postage to the U.K. just for the hot end version. I call that taking the p**s.
You can pick up half a metre of WS2812B from Aliexpress for under £2 and have a go at wiring them yourself.
HAHHAA All I did is get a set of RGBIC LED's that are WIFI.. added them to the printer Now I just say.. HEY GOOGLE TURN ON MY PRINTER!!.. and BOOM!! it's on and can change color make the lights dance to the sounds as well.. :) total cost $27.00
The three wires on the RIGHT are mains voltage... you said the Left!!!
I've always suspected that Michael was a bat. Now I finally have proof.
Lol... he's otherwise a good resource
@@mrclown7469
He meant his other left
Bling? Nah, I'm not looking for bling, I just want a better look at what I'm making.
Just say no! it's a tool and does not need bling!
Dutch shut up