Thanks so much for all of the positive feedback. Thanks to community members posting on GitHub, some bugs, typos and errors have been caught and fixed. New features have already been added with plenty more to come in the future.
You are awesome! This is exactly what the community needed. Thank you so much! Maybe you can include deltas in the future, they are a different beast but auto-calibration of the bed surface has come a long way in most flavors of firmware and often works perfectly on machines that are well built and equipped with precision z-probes using smoothieware (LSQ fork for calibration) and RepRapFirmware. In my experience it's better to calibrate temperature before retraction though, because temperature has such a high impact on stringing, especially with PLA which is the most commonly used filament. Keep up the excellent work. :)
Thank you so much for the work and thought you have put into this. My question... I have stock firmware and boards on my ender 3p and Anet A8. How do I change my gcode firmware. Do I have to go to marlin? What program is used to interface with the printer?
This is truly awesome! I used Dr. Lex calibration guide for my FFCP and had very good results but with my new ender 5 pro it was not straight forward application for other printers (different firmware etc). This is the awesome counterpart for marlin and just what was needed! I have a request, so many of the turnings are hot end dependent. How hard would it be to add different nozzle diameters? Say a .8 or .6 or .2 nozzles?
Is it possible to get the settings that the baseline cube was printed with? I got a pretty good print using that, but an extremely ugly print using my own slicer settings.
And he opensourced it. This shit will be used in a lot of research papers. I have a feeling this will give him a leg up if he applies for jobs if he ever needs to. This is extremely valuable.
The stepper motor current bit is kind of out of place IMO. It's like if you had a driving course: 1. How to accelerate. 2. How to brake. 3. How to steer. 4. How to do a 180° burnout in a torrential downpour at night, while injured. 5. Parallel parking.
@@pedrohenriquepeixoto3964 nao cara. é Driver mesmo....a palavra piloto pra gente é driver pra eles, logo ele não é "pilot" no Brasil, e sim driver. "pilot" é quem controla aviões/navios. Ou um episódio teste de uma série/programa. lol.
This is legit mind blowing! You've done something incredible here, making the entire world of 3d printing even more accessible to everyone. Including those that have been in it for a while, as making temperature towers always ends up sucking! Would love to see this built into slicers eventually, like perhaps a plugin for cura, so that it will automatically make use of all the rest of your settings!
There is an option in Cura to do this; extensions-->post processing. However, it is cumbersome as you have to manually enter the level and temp for each change. Simply plugging in what you want on this github page is immensely easier!
HOLY COW! THIS IS AMAZING! Dude really, you just went and scientifically (engineeringly - as engineering is science applied) broke down the printing process and systematically owned the process'. I'm a career mechanic and basically you just created ISO certifiable guidelines for all us hobby people. Seriously I hope you win some kind of award for this! Thank you, thank you, thank you. Amazing sir! Amazing.
all of these technique's were already pre existing. what he did do. was make an awesome collection of them. with explaination easy for anyone to understand. and made tools so that anyone can do it.
This is really a game changer. The only thing missing is a tab for testing max volumetric flow rate! Some auto-generated gcode to extrude some predetermined amount of filament for weighing would be really handy for tuning max speed prints.
PLEASE add the ability to set first layer height in your G Code generators! Otherwise they are super helpful. Thank you for making tuning this much easier.
Would it be possible to timestamp this video with YT's new timestamp features? This is really informative and breaking it down would help with recall as you mention at 0:38
So cool thank you for this. Having everything in one place is a life saver... I am printing with a 0.6mm nozzle, is there anything I need to change in the GCODE of the temperature tower?
This is incredible. I've been printing less often recently because my printer desperately needs overall tuning/calibration, but I've always found it difficult to do because I never feel like I cover all the bases I need so I've avoided it. This is a game changer for me. Great work! 😁
One minor thing. Vernier refers to using two scales with different interval sizes to make it easier to accurately read smaller intervals, it isn't a generic name for all slide calipers. Vernier calipers are specifically calipers that you read the measurement off of a vernier scale. Digital and dial calipers are not vernier calipers.
I think in the future, printers will have cameras mounted to the hotend and use machine learning to calibrate prints in real time. Thank you for your work!
In which Position i have to print the 5015_30deg_Single_Radial_Fan_Dual_Ducts.stl ? I lay the dual ducts on the bed with supports only on bed. Thats ok? I use prusaslicer. Which are the best options for supports for a clean print over the supports?
This is fantastic. I've been unsuccessfully trying to figure out how to make retraction towers for ages with cura post-processing. Could your code be modified by nozzle size?
@@NirateGoel unless it has been changed recently, I don’t think it is possible to change retraction settings at z via post-processing in Cura. Happy to be corrected if it is possible.
WOW - and thank you so much. All of us have tried at least one of these calibrations at some stage. But never have I sat down and did a structured "start to finish" complete printer calibration. Fantastic to have this one-stop shop tool. My printer is complete self design from scratch soooo - the opportunity for some funnies was right there. And boy did I fix some. I cant for the life of me work out why I must use a 66% flow rate in Cura, despite perfect 100mm Extruder calibration, brand new Micro Swiss 0.4mm nozzle and quality filament. And that is with everything else also perfectly calibrated. mmmmm
It is always apparent you are a teacher (once a teacher, always a teacher). Your videos have relevant specific outcomes, layout clear specifics directions, anticipate problems and address multiple learning styles. Thank you for all the time spent not only recording and editing the videos but like every good lesson in the preparation for delivery. This is why I subscribe to your channel.
Great video, so much info, absolutely love your channel. I got my stringing working perfectly with your gcode download although when i try and input those settings into Prussa Slicer its terrible, any advise? Thanks again
Great set of tutorials. Loving it. One word of warning, code generated by the retraction test starts moving print head immediately after zeroing Z axis causing nozzle to slam against the print bed. Issue is that command for going to Z value for first level is after the initial move into XY position. Flip these two and you are good to go.
As someone who's owned and operated a 3D printer for half a decade, I have to say this is one of THE BEST and most comprehensive guides I've ever seen. Not only did you highlight the most important factors in tuning 3D printers for the best print quality, you also provided the tools and instructions on how to use them. You and your channel/content never ceases to amaze me. I always learn something new from your videos and it's just amazing. You are a wholesome person!
This is freaking awesome. Thank you so much. Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but I'm working with a machine that has a 0.6mm nozzle. Does that put me back in the DIY tower editing realm, or is there a quick hack I can use to make the generators work for me?
Hi, when I run the retraction test my x axis hits the top like if there is not end stop and then the effector comes down sideways and not centered. I ran the first calibration just fine and I don't understand what's going on anymore. I have an anycubic predator and this calibration is just brilliant, too bad I cannot perform it anymore. Please I need your help
My printer is getting delivered today and I’m so thankful for all the time you’ve put into your channel making this as accessible as possible. From a Brazilian to an Aussie I appreciate you mate
Any time I see someone on Facebook complaining about tramming the bed on their printer and still having issues with their print, I send them a link to this video. Honestly Michael, a work of genius to put this together. Really made a significant difference in the quality of my prints on my new Ender 3. Thank you!
I'd say use the OrcaSlicer ones because it's always better to run the tests natively in your own slicer, rather than trying to transfer settings from this.
Thank You for making something so awesome,. I assembled my first 3d printer after watching more than 300-400 youtube videos but I was never able to get my first print right not even with a tolerance of 5mm+/-. Everyone who saw my printer simply said that it was not going to work! I saw this video and now I feel much more confident that I am going to follow it step by step and I will be able to print very soon with my printer.
This is absolutely impressive, and I don't think anyone can say otherwise. This is what 3D printer manufactures should have developed years ago. But, as always with this tech, the community had to dedicate the time and energy to ensure everyone has access to the tools and information needed to get the full potential out of their machines. We truly thank you for this; you've done an excellent job.
I had to share this video into our RC truck & construction facebook page, PNWSTE. PNWSTE stands for Pacific Northwest Scale Trucks & Equipment. I know there are some members on the page that would appreciate watching this video!
Has anyone else had trouble with the temperature tower generated by the site's gcode? Every other test has been working well (thank you, Michael!) but the temperature tower came off the bed and was creating a big glob of plastic after the first level of temperature. It's like something went wrong when it tried to change to the next level/temperature.
One qustion, how do I open a terminal to my ender 3? Pronterface is to old (?) and it must be a better way to acces the printer then to install Octoprint?
Bro, this is a game changer. For people like me, that need clear and ordered steps for doing things they are not comfortable with this is awesome. Thank you very much.
In newer Cura version there is not a single one settings name that matches the ones on the guide. Not even "infill percentage" which now is "infill density" and this is the only one easy to figure out
I love your devotion and commitment to develop such a guide! My only comment would be the assumption that a 0.4 nozzle would yield a single wall thickness of 0.4. In reality because of die swell, it should be 0.48 mm. This should be changed IMHO.
This is a great video. However, there is one question I've never heard answered well. What is the proper z-offset? I have a 1.75mm filament, a 0.4mm nozzle, and a 0.2mm layer height. I started by guessing a z-offset of 0.2 would be perfect. But, I want the filament to be pressed into the bed just a little, so 0.0175mm? Or, would it be 0.375 to match the nozzle? the 0.0025 is only a guess. Is there a science to this?
I need to check into this. I made a ridiculously high-speed profile that produced almost no stringing, ringing, or seams whatsoever. But the secret was a very-coarse 260% extrusion width and 0.3 layer height. As soon as I dialed down the extrusion width, I got the ringing and seams back. Now I'm trying to go for quality AND speed.
Wow, what great timing. I just got a printer two days ago, and I'm unpacking it this weekend. I'll definitely use this website to calibrate it. Thanks so much!
With the phenomenal work with quality to be true, for the benefit of the community and beginners like me, it is no wonder that it raises so much envy and malevolence. That's why you're the first and so far only person I've become a patron of. Thank you very much Michael
Ok, I have been humbled. I am not a coder and apparently my printer has been doing most of the heavy lifting. This is one of the reasons I bought the printer I did, I just wanted it to work as I don't generally have a lot of spare time (crazy job, 3 kids, and a wife), so I bought an Ultimaker 3 a while ago. I have been trying to go through your quite awesome tuning setup as I have been having issues printing rounded edges even with supports, which confuses me greatly. I have a feeling Marlin isn't compatible with my Ultimaker's Firmware. Luckily, I found work arounds for the early tuning steps. However the bits of your site I am most interested in contain items I have to get from your code. I clearly have some changes including filament size, dual extruder, etc. I got to the retraction tuning before getting stuck on the code issues. How do I add the proper details or convert to a firmware that works with my Ultimaker? Guessing my firmware is called Griffin, but haven't been able to confirm that is what flavor means yet. Anyway, this is what I find at the start of my Ultimaker g code after I got it uncompressed. ;START_OF_HEADER ;HEADER_VERSION:0.1 ;FLAVOR:Griffin ;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine ;GENERATOR.VERSION:4.8.0 ;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2020-11-10 ;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Ultimaker 3 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:210 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:212751 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.GUID:44a029e6-e31b-4c9e-a12f-9282e29a92ff ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.NAME:AA 0.4 ;BUILD_PLATE.TYPE:glass ;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:60 ;PRINT.TIME:17599.427812 ;PRINT.GROUPS:1 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:42.74 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:6 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:86.27 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:204 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:164.94 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:123.87 ;END_OF_HEADER ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.8.0 T1 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
Hey Michael. For whatever reason, the retraction tower on an Anycubic Vyper specifically scratches the bed right away when it goes to print. If anything, I would have to assume it's a firmware issue in combination with the strain gauge bed leveling system the machine uses. Apparently there's a lot of stuff not enabled in the stock firmware, such as linear advance. Hopefully some community firmware comes out once more people receive their machines and the issue can be fixed. I doubt it's an error with G-Code your website generates.
This guide is excellent but for some reason I can't get the acceleration / junction deviation feature to work. Whenever I print the acceleration tuning tower all the levels look identical and none of the values I enter appear to cause any changes to the quality of the print. I'm running the latest stable Marlin on an Ender 3 with a 32 bit SKR 1.4 turbo if that makes any difference. I am sure it used to work.
Your command for bed's PID autotune doesn't work for me but what worked for me was this: "M303 bed S60 U1" because not all board share same value for bed "E-1" UPDATE: A suggestion, you should add "Print Speed" to cube calibration page, what if I want to calibrate with PETG or PLA since both have different speed requirement.
Thank you SO MUCH for making this easy to follow and use guide, especially that it’s sliced agnostic and printer agnostic. I can’t tell you how much of a lifesaver this is, I’ve been struggling with a printer I had recently upgraded, and I followed the guide for the areas I was having trouble and now it’s printing almost PERFECTLY!!! This is why everyone should support you on Patreon if they get value from your videos, I most definitely do!!!!
I know this is a late date for this, but... I have had my Ender 5 for about 3 years now. I made an MPCNC machine with it, with very limited success. When the new Primo MPCNC came out, I decided to give it a go. TO do this I need accurate prints. I did the Cal Cube and stepper adjustment, and got my cube very good dimensionally! However, larger pieces were wildly inaccurate. I tried to force the pieces closer by using horizontal expansion. It was better but I was missing something. I adjusted all the belts and such on the machine, and figured that adjusting the steps was just WRONG. I set the steps back to the default (except for the Extruder) and did a larger part. It was pretty close. Then I added a little negative horizontal expansion (-0.18mm), and the 1.5" hole was only 0.004" off, instead of the 0.05" using the step adjust method. I wondered, then, how would the 20mm cal cube do with this same horizontal expansion. It was about 19.88mm on average. A little more tweak would bring the 1.5" hole up to dimension, and make the cal cube very close.... I feel like those suggesting the step adjust method, should also consider "teaching" the horizontal expansion method. One can also use the hole adjustment correction if you have problems with that.... BTW this Ender 5 has TMC2208, SKR 1.3, all metal hot end and all metal extruder. Soon to have an SKR Mini E3 and 2209 drivers.
Hi Michael, I am getting this error whenever I drop any of the generated gcodes from your page into octoprint (printing with a Prusa MK3S+ if that makes any difference). Layer indicator not found in file: 'retraction(3).gcode' Check 'layer pattern', 'Look ahead limit' in DisplayLayerProgress-Settings and reUpload the file!, just thought I would let you know.
Would it be possible for printer companies to have an x,y,z & extruder calibration option on the display. "For a 20mm cube, your measured X value was...?" The 100mm filament test ran how many mm? Then it calculates the new esteps and adds it automatically. What do you think?
Just recently upgraded my Ender3 Pro with a new SKR mini motherboard and a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder kit. This tool has helped immensely with re-calibrating my printer but I'm also experiencing some weird flow/blobbing issues on the rear/left corner (likely where new layer starts) having adjusted my Slicer Flow Calibration (step 7). I'm using PETG. I've tried adjusting the temp and flow in Cura over 8 tests now but can't seem to resolve the issue. Is it possible that the filament is 'damp'? Nice, clean prints otherwise with no ghosting.
Genial video, gran trabajo. yo pensando que tenia bien calibrada la maquina, llevo 1 día reajustando parámetros y haciendo pruebas , teniendo la certeza que no lo estropearé.
You dont need Octoprint for the E-steps... EDIT: Also JUST the G1 E100 F100 line did not work for me, I needed another line before that that I had to guess from using Octoprint to print 100mm before that (but it was with feed of 300/100%)
Hi, thank you for a great video. I tried the PID autotuning for the hot end and it worked find. I tried to do it for the bed, and it give an error message.Send: M303 E1 S60 U1 Recv: PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number I have an Ender 3 with an SKR mini E3 v1.2 Does this mean that PIDTEMPBED is not enabled in the firmware? If it is not enabled, do I have to edit the firmware?
Thanks so much for all of the positive feedback. Thanks to community members posting on GitHub, some bugs, typos and errors have been caught and fixed. New features have already been added with plenty more to come in the future.
You are awesome! This is exactly what the community needed. Thank you so much! Maybe you can include deltas in the future, they are a different beast but auto-calibration of the bed surface has come a long way in most flavors of firmware and often works perfectly on machines that are well built and equipped with precision z-probes using smoothieware (LSQ fork for calibration) and RepRapFirmware. In my experience it's better to calibrate temperature before retraction though, because temperature has such a high impact on stringing, especially with PLA which is the most commonly used filament. Keep up the excellent work. :)
Thank you so much for the work and thought you have put into this.
My question... I have stock firmware and boards on my ender 3p and Anet A8.
How do I change my gcode firmware. Do I have to go to marlin? What program is used to interface with the printer?
This is truly awesome! I used Dr. Lex calibration guide for my FFCP and had very good results but with my new ender 5 pro it was not straight forward application for other printers (different firmware etc). This is the awesome counterpart for marlin and just what was needed!
I have a request, so many of the turnings are hot end dependent. How hard would it be to add different nozzle diameters? Say a .8 or .6 or .2 nozzles?
Is it possible to get the settings that the baseline cube was printed with? I got a pretty good print using that, but an extremely ugly print using my own slicer settings.
[EDIT: Yes]
Great guide! Thx!
Do I need to worry about GCODE flavour when using code generated by the website?
Have a nice weekend!
Thank you for putting so much effort in this and yet still offer it to the community for free. Respect! 👏👏
And he opensourced it. This shit will be used in a lot of research papers. I have a feeling this will give him a leg up if he applies for jobs if he ever needs to. This is extremely valuable.
I LOVE THIS GUY
The stepper motor current bit is kind of out of place IMO. It's like if you had a driving course: 1. How to accelerate. 2. How to brake. 3. How to steer. 4. How to do a 180° burnout in a torrential downpour at night, while injured. 5. Parallel parking.
Lol
+1 for your Ayrton Senna sweater. Best pilot ever
Driver?
@@lamazejohnson4909 over here in Brazil we're used to say F1 pilot
@@pedrohenriquepeixoto3964 I see. I watched his documentary. Amazing "pilot". RIP.
@@pedrohenriquepeixoto3964 nao cara. é Driver mesmo....a palavra piloto pra gente é driver pra eles, logo ele não é "pilot" no Brasil, e sim driver. "pilot" é quem controla aviões/navios. Ou um episódio teste de uma série/programa. lol.
@@lamazejohnson4909 lol!
This is legit mind blowing!
You've done something incredible here, making the entire world of 3d printing even more accessible to everyone. Including those that have been in it for a while, as making temperature towers always ends up sucking! Would love to see this built into slicers eventually, like perhaps a plugin for cura, so that it will automatically make use of all the rest of your settings!
There are calibration prints built into SuperSlicer - temp tower being one of them
@@showalterfamilylights I have no idea what super slicer is, but I'm going to look it up!
@@ImPattMan it is a fork of PrusaSlicer. Used to be called Slic3r++. Check it out on GitHub.
I agree, I'm fairly new to 3d printing and this is a great resource all in one place.
There is an option in Cura to do this; extensions-->post processing. However, it is cumbersome as you have to manually enter the level and temp for each change. Simply plugging in what you want on this github page is immensely easier!
HOLY COW! THIS IS AMAZING!
Dude really, you just went and scientifically (engineeringly - as engineering is science applied) broke down the printing process and systematically owned the process'. I'm a career mechanic and basically you just created ISO certifiable guidelines for all us hobby people. Seriously I hope you win some kind of award for this! Thank you, thank you, thank you. Amazing sir! Amazing.
all of these technique's were already pre existing.
what he did do. was make an awesome collection of them. with explaination easy for anyone to understand. and made tools so that anyone can do it.
I wish something like this would have existed when I started my journey!
I really think that this will help people just starting with this hobby!
This is really a game changer. The only thing missing is a tab for testing max volumetric flow rate! Some auto-generated gcode to extrude some predetermined amount of filament for weighing would be really handy for tuning max speed prints.
PLEASE add the ability to set first layer height in your G Code generators! Otherwise they are super helpful. Thank you for making tuning this much easier.
Would it be possible to timestamp this video with YT's new timestamp features? This is really informative and breaking it down would help with recall as you mention at 0:38
Done :)
@@TeachingTech Thanks m8
So cool thank you for this. Having everything in one place is a life saver...
I am printing with a 0.6mm nozzle, is there anything I need to change in the GCODE of the temperature tower?
The first link is broken
here is the real one: teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Thanks!
thanks
thanks
I see it as truncated, but a click on it opened the page so I didn't even notice. He may have fixed it...
This is so valuable for new users. Thanks for developing this and making it available to everyone.
nice1 could you tell me the slicing settings (especially speed settings) of the baseline cube. It looks way better then mine sliced with cura :/
This is incredible. I've been printing less often recently because my printer desperately needs overall tuning/calibration, but I've always found it difficult to do because I never feel like I cover all the bases I need so I've avoided it. This is a game changer for me. Great work! 😁
Indeed! Incredibly useful and well thought and laid out. Thanks!!!!
One minor thing. Vernier refers to using two scales with different interval sizes to make it easier to accurately read smaller intervals, it isn't a generic name for all slide calipers. Vernier calipers are specifically calipers that you read the measurement off of a vernier scale. Digital and dial calipers are not vernier calipers.
Pst this is a great reason to give to his patreon, worth every penny in my book
#Kickback :-) jk
I don't have much to give to patreons, but he earned a (small :( ) donation from me.
It would be nice to change the sice of the nozzle. I am always using 0.6mm nozzle. Great job by creating all this!
This is an incredible resource - sharing with all my friends
great work! Nice Ayrton Senna shirt ! Hi from Brazil
This really is brilliant. Ive been printing for years, but can see this being super useful, thankyou!
Can you add a nozzle size selector for those of us that have switched to other sizes? I believe the GCode is created with the assumed 0.4 standard.
I think in the future, printers will have cameras mounted to the hotend and use machine learning to calibrate prints in real time. Thank you for your work!
Does anybody know what selection of ABL should be selected when doing the Creality Cr6-Se. Thanks..
Amazing work! Love the custom g-code. It would be awesome if down the road we can change out nozzle sizes.
You should def. suggest that on the github
In which Position i have to print the 5015_30deg_Single_Radial_Fan_Dual_Ducts.stl ? I lay the dual ducts on the bed with supports only on bed. Thats ok? I use prusaslicer. Which are the best options for supports for a clean print over the supports?
I just got my first 3D printer and was looking for something like this! Awesome!!
I've been out of the 3D game for a couple years now. Love to see this when I'm getting back into it. Best 3D channel on YT!
the first link has no yt on the end
This is fantastic. I've been unsuccessfully trying to figure out how to make retraction towers for ages with cura post-processing.
Could your code be modified by nozzle size?
It'd probably be easier to download the stl and slice it yourself.
@@NirateGoel unless it has been changed recently, I don’t think it is possible to change retraction settings at z via post-processing in Cura. Happy to be corrected if it is possible.
This is awesome. Big thank you to you and everyone involved! I've always found your videos helpful but this is one step beyond.
WOW - and thank you so much.
All of us have tried at least one of these calibrations at some stage. But never have I sat down and did a structured "start to finish" complete printer calibration.
Fantastic to have this one-stop shop tool. My printer is complete self design from scratch soooo - the opportunity for some funnies was right there. And boy did I fix some.
I cant for the life of me work out why I must use a 66% flow rate in Cura, despite perfect 100mm Extruder calibration, brand new Micro Swiss 0.4mm nozzle and quality filament. And that is with everything else also perfectly calibrated. mmmmm
It is always apparent you are a teacher (once a teacher, always a teacher). Your videos have relevant specific outcomes, layout clear specifics directions, anticipate problems and address multiple learning styles. Thank you for all the time spent not only recording and editing the videos but like every good lesson in the preparation for delivery. This is why I subscribe to your channel.
Great video, so much info, absolutely love your channel. I got my stringing working perfectly with your gcode download although when i try and input those settings into Prussa Slicer its terrible, any advise? Thanks again
Great set of tutorials. Loving it. One word of warning, code generated by the retraction test starts moving print head immediately after zeroing Z axis causing nozzle to slam against the print bed. Issue is that command for going to Z value for first level is after the initial move into XY position. Flip these two and you are good to go.
Has this been fixed?
@@hans-walterpaolin7132 Didn't test in a while. So I don't know, sorry. Issue I reported hasn't been closed.
Thank you so much for all this...
Is this Klipper compatible ?
It would be so amazing if all these calibration tests came with the printer firmware as a nice user-friendly guided testing system
Thank you so much and wonderful job for making all this process so easy. 👍
As someone who's owned and operated a 3D printer for half a decade, I have to say this is one of THE BEST and most comprehensive guides I've ever seen. Not only did you highlight the most important factors in tuning 3D printers for the best print quality, you also provided the tools and instructions on how to use them.
You and your channel/content never ceases to amaze me. I always learn something new from your videos and it's just amazing. You are a wholesome person!
This is freaking awesome. Thank you so much. Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but I'm working with a machine that has a 0.6mm nozzle. Does that put me back in the DIY tower editing realm, or is there a quick hack I can use to make the generators work for me?
In Germany we would say: EHRENMANN!!
Thank you :)🔧
Hi, when I run the retraction test my x axis hits the top like if there is not end stop and then the effector comes down sideways and not centered. I ran the first calibration just fine and I don't understand what's going on anymore. I have an anycubic predator and this calibration is just brilliant, too bad I cannot perform it anymore. Please I need your help
My printer is getting delivered today and I’m so thankful for all the time you’ve put into your channel making this as accessible as possible. From a Brazilian to an Aussie I appreciate you mate
Game changer. Fantastic job. Thank you so much
Any time I see someone on Facebook complaining about tramming the bed on their printer and still having issues with their print, I send them a link to this video. Honestly Michael, a work of genius to put this together. Really made a significant difference in the quality of my prints on my new Ender 3. Thank you!
your work is spectacular. But my question is if these calibrations are better or not necessary and is the one that comes with Orcaslicer 2.1 enough?
I'd say use the OrcaSlicer ones because it's always better to run the tests natively in your own slicer, rather than trying to transfer settings from this.
This idea brings together a significant body of knowledge. Excellent work. It could also work well if presented as an octoprint plugin 👍
Thank You for making something so awesome,. I assembled my first 3d printer after watching more than 300-400 youtube videos but I was never able to get my first print right not even with a tolerance of 5mm+/-. Everyone who saw my printer simply said that it was not going to work! I saw this video and now I feel much more confident that I am going to follow it step by step and I will be able to print very soon with my printer.
That jacket is awesome. Where'd you get that?
This is absolutely impressive, and I don't think anyone can say otherwise.
This is what 3D printer manufactures should have developed years ago. But, as always with this tech, the community had to dedicate the time and energy to ensure everyone has access to the tools and information needed to get the full potential out of their machines.
We truly thank you for this; you've done an excellent job.
I had to share this video into our RC truck & construction facebook page, PNWSTE. PNWSTE stands for Pacific Northwest Scale Trucks & Equipment. I know there are some members on the page that would appreciate watching this video!
Thank you for this! I bookmarked your page as I'm about to upgrade my Ender 3 V2 to both direct drive and all metal hot end.
wow that looks awesome, saving this for when I get a 3d printer!
Ayrton Senna do Brasil!
Has anyone else had trouble with the temperature tower generated by the site's gcode? Every other test has been working well (thank you, Michael!) but the temperature tower came off the bed and was creating a big glob of plastic after the first level of temperature. It's like something went wrong when it tried to change to the next level/temperature.
3D prints all over the world are better because of you. Thanks for everything you do.
Thanks for your awesome work! One of my favorite channels!
Wow, you are awesome! Thank you for all the work you've done on this. I am so grateful I am subscribed to your amazing channel!
Congrats on 200k subs!
Thank you so much 😀
One qustion, how do I open a terminal to my ender 3? Pronterface is to old (?) and it must be a better way to acces the printer then to install Octoprint?
Bro, this is a game changer. For people like me, that need clear and ordered steps for doing things they are not comfortable with this is awesome. Thank you very much.
In newer Cura version there is not a single one settings name that matches the ones on the guide. Not even "infill percentage" which now is "infill density" and this is the only one easy to figure out
I love your devotion and commitment to develop such a guide! My only comment would be the assumption that a 0.4 nozzle would yield a single wall thickness of 0.4. In reality because of die swell, it should be 0.48 mm. This should be changed IMHO.
I didnt notice the first time I watched this video... but now I did.... Ayrton Senna rules dude!!!! Greetings from Brazil
Thank you Bro, this is amazing... SENNA🥇 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
WOW!. Holy expletive. Amazing work. Sorry I'm just now finding this....
This video and website is amazing. I finally feel like I can get my Ender 3 dialed in correctly. Thank you so much for this.
This is a great video. However, there is one question I've never heard answered well. What is the proper z-offset? I have a 1.75mm filament, a 0.4mm nozzle, and a 0.2mm layer height. I started by guessing a z-offset of 0.2 would be perfect. But, I want the filament to be pressed into the bed just a little, so 0.0175mm? Or, would it be 0.375 to match the nozzle? the 0.0025 is only a guess. Is there a science to this?
I need to check into this. I made a ridiculously high-speed profile that produced almost no stringing, ringing, or seams whatsoever. But the secret was a very-coarse 260% extrusion width and 0.3 layer height. As soon as I dialed down the extrusion width, I got the ringing and seams back. Now I'm trying to go for quality AND speed.
This is gold, I should of binge watched this a lot earlier tinkering with my trusty Velleman K8200. Would have saved me a lot of guesswork. 👍😃
AMAZING WORK!!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU for sharing such a succinct and simplified approach to tuning our printers, Newbies like me are Very GRATEFUL!
will this work with a ANYCUBIC Mega Pro also any discord support links?
Amazing job! Probably the most useful resource I've ever found regarding 3D printer calibration. Thank you for your great work!!
Wow, I just got interested in finally calibrating my printer instead of tweaking it _all_ _the_ _time_. Your site is gold!
Amazing. How in the world did you learn this? All the script that went into this is AMAZING!!!!
GREAT WORK!!!!
Wow, what great timing. I just got a printer two days ago, and I'm unpacking it this weekend. I'll definitely use this website to calibrate it. Thanks so much!
With the phenomenal work with quality to be true, for the benefit of the community and beginners like me, it is no wonder that it raises so much envy and malevolence. That's why you're the first and so far only person I've become a patron of. Thank you very much Michael
Ok, I have been humbled. I am not a coder and apparently my printer has been doing most of the heavy lifting. This is one of the reasons I bought the printer I did, I just wanted it to work as I don't generally have a lot of spare time (crazy job, 3 kids, and a wife), so I bought an Ultimaker 3 a while ago. I have been trying to go through your quite awesome tuning setup as I have been having issues printing rounded edges even with supports, which confuses me greatly. I have a feeling Marlin isn't compatible with my Ultimaker's Firmware. Luckily, I found work arounds for the early tuning steps. However the bits of your site I am most interested in contain items I have to get from your code. I clearly have some changes including filament size, dual extruder, etc. I got to the retraction tuning before getting stuck on the code issues. How do I add the proper details or convert to a firmware that works with my Ultimaker? Guessing my firmware is called Griffin, but haven't been able to confirm that is what flavor means yet. Anyway, this is what I find at the start of my Ultimaker g code after I got it uncompressed.
;START_OF_HEADER
;HEADER_VERSION:0.1
;FLAVOR:Griffin
;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine
;GENERATOR.VERSION:4.8.0
;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2020-11-10
;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Ultimaker 3
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:210
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:212751
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.GUID:44a029e6-e31b-4c9e-a12f-9282e29a92ff
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.NAME:AA 0.4
;BUILD_PLATE.TYPE:glass
;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:60
;PRINT.TIME:17599.427812
;PRINT.GROUPS:1
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:42.74
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:6
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:86.27
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:204
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:164.94
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:123.87
;END_OF_HEADER
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.8.0
T1
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
Hey Michael. For whatever reason, the retraction tower on an Anycubic Vyper specifically scratches the bed right away when it goes to print. If anything, I would have to assume it's a firmware issue in combination with the strain gauge bed leveling system the machine uses. Apparently there's a lot of stuff not enabled in the stock firmware, such as linear advance.
Hopefully some community firmware comes out once more people receive their machines and the issue can be fixed. I doubt it's an error with G-Code your website generates.
This guide is excellent but for some reason I can't get the acceleration / junction deviation feature to work. Whenever I print the acceleration tuning tower all the levels look identical and none of the values I enter appear to cause any changes to the quality of the print. I'm running the latest stable Marlin on an Ender 3 with a 32 bit SKR 1.4 turbo if that makes any difference. I am sure it used to work.
But.... it's printing the wrong way around the track.... Monza is CW, not CCW...
Cool tech though!
As a beginner, I couldn't be thankful enough to stumble across this video. I cannot imagine the effort put into this but thank you so much.
Thank you so much for doing this, I plan on changing a lot on my printer and this is exactly what I am looking for
Your command for bed's PID autotune doesn't work for me but what worked for me was this: "M303 bed S60 U1" because not all board share same value for bed "E-1"
UPDATE: A suggestion, you should add "Print Speed" to cube calibration page, what if I want to calibrate with PETG or PLA since both have different speed requirement.
Awesome piece of art! Gr8 stuff! Can't thank enough! :) Also love Ayrton! Cried that Sunday when watching Monza Grand Prix
Thank you SO MUCH for making this easy to follow and use guide, especially that it’s sliced agnostic and printer agnostic. I can’t tell you how much of a lifesaver this is, I’ve been struggling with a printer I had recently upgraded, and I followed the guide for the areas I was having trouble and now it’s printing almost PERFECTLY!!! This is why everyone should support you on Patreon if they get value from your videos, I most definitely do!!!!
Joke apart. Amazingly useful video. Too bad I can’t give multiple like. Thank you so much. I know what I will do next monday...
Stunning work, thank you very much I am amazed by the fact that you put out so much quality work and info for free. Thank you again.
Zajebisty kanał :) Pietrzak mógłby się uczyć :)
I know this is a late date for this, but...
I have had my Ender 5 for about 3 years now. I made an MPCNC machine with it, with very limited success. When the new Primo MPCNC came out, I decided to give it a go.
TO do this I need accurate prints. I did the Cal Cube and stepper adjustment, and got my cube very good dimensionally! However, larger pieces were wildly inaccurate. I tried to force the pieces closer by using horizontal expansion. It was better but I was missing something. I adjusted all the belts and such on the machine, and figured that adjusting the steps was just WRONG.
I set the steps back to the default (except for the Extruder) and did a larger part. It was pretty close. Then I added a little negative horizontal expansion (-0.18mm), and the 1.5" hole was only 0.004" off, instead of the 0.05" using the step adjust method.
I wondered, then, how would the 20mm cal cube do with this same horizontal expansion. It was about 19.88mm on average.
A little more tweak would bring the 1.5" hole up to dimension, and make the cal cube very close....
I feel like those suggesting the step adjust method, should also consider "teaching" the horizontal expansion method. One can also use the hole adjustment correction if you have problems with that....
BTW this Ender 5 has TMC2208, SKR 1.3, all metal hot end and all metal extruder. Soon to have an SKR Mini E3 and 2209 drivers.
I wish there were retraction tests like this all along! Although, I'm wondering why z hop is enabled? It would great to have an option to turn it off.
Hi Michael, I am getting this error whenever I drop any of the generated gcodes from your page into octoprint (printing with a Prusa MK3S+ if that makes any difference). Layer indicator not found in file: 'retraction(3).gcode' Check 'layer pattern', 'Look ahead limit' in DisplayLayerProgress-Settings and reUpload the file!, just thought I would let you know.
Would it be possible for printer companies to have an x,y,z & extruder calibration option on the display. "For a 20mm cube, your measured X value was...?" The 100mm filament test ran how many mm? Then it calculates the new esteps and adds it automatically. What do you think?
Extremely useful and comprehensive. Thanks 🙏🌹
Definitely agree, this is a great step forward.
My CR-10S Pro V2 comes ~Tuesday (which is in 2 days) if I'm lucky. So this is very much appreciated :)
What an amazing resource! This will help so many that are first getting into 3D printing and even some of us that have been around while.
Just recently upgraded my Ender3 Pro with a new SKR mini motherboard and a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder kit. This tool has helped immensely with re-calibrating my printer but I'm also experiencing some weird flow/blobbing issues on the rear/left corner (likely where new layer starts) having adjusted my Slicer Flow Calibration (step 7). I'm using PETG. I've tried adjusting the temp and flow in Cura over 8 tests now but can't seem to resolve the issue. Is it possible that the filament is 'damp'? Nice, clean prints otherwise with no ghosting.
So freaking cool..!
Definitely be using this resource .
😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🇦🇺🤓
This is greatly helpful, I am just getting started and this is the most well structured and helpful resource I have seen. Thanks for your efforts!
Genial video, gran trabajo.
yo pensando que tenia bien calibrada la maquina, llevo 1 día reajustando parámetros y haciendo pruebas , teniendo la certeza que no lo estropearé.
You dont need Octoprint for the E-steps...
EDIT: Also JUST the G1 E100 F100 line did not work for me, I needed another line before that that I had to guess from using Octoprint to print 100mm before that (but it was with feed of 300/100%)
Hi, thank you for a great video. I tried the PID autotuning for the hot end and it worked find. I tried to do it for the bed, and it give an error message.Send: M303 E1 S60 U1
Recv: PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number
I have an Ender 3 with an SKR mini E3 v1.2 Does this mean that PIDTEMPBED is not enabled in the firmware? If it is not enabled, do I have to edit the firmware?