The best thing you can do when selecting a shaft is to google the specs of that particular shaft to see what the flight ( high, mid or low ) is and what the torque rating is. I play the T1100 X-Stiff shaft that has a 2.8 torque rating and doesn't feel boardy. This is an amazing golf shaft which allows me to load it without feeling like I have to "hurry" my swing. I've played a X-Stiff shaft a few years back that was in the 2.1 torque rating range (stiffest rating possible) and it felt like a 2x4. Switching to the 2.8 torque rated shaft allowed me to more easily hit better tee balls without it feeling like I'm bludgeoning the ball.
good advice i bought the callaway xr16 driver hit it amazing in the fitting bay. Got it home took the wrapper off took it the course and it felt a completely different club. Had to get rid of it it the end as i never hit it like i did in testing.
Is there a comparison between identical shafts? Quality control? I and a friend bought identical TM drivers yet one club felt significantly different than the other.
It’s basically Honda vs. Mercedes. They both get you from point A to point B. There is no question about that. The differences kick in when the conditions become out of ordinary. If you commute 5 blocks at 35 mph, would it make such a difference besides feeling awesome sitting in a Merc? Now, you need to commute 25 miles at 80 mph. Statistically speaking, what are the chances of getting into life-threatening incidents compared to the 35 mph commute? I think this is where the aftermarket shafts shine. It might be able to save your life by losing less control when you swerve or by protecting you in those better frames (materials) in a bad crash. Players with higher swing speeds who play a lot more often (like those PGA pros) will definitely benefit more from such mishits or less than perfect swings. Besides, pros make money out of those tools so they don’t even need to justify the cost (and guess how much they pay for them - $0). Then again, there is absolutely no rule that a 60-old lady who only knows about putting gas in a car can’t drive a $200,000 Mercedes. If you got the money, get it and enjoy the ride. But remember, most of my golf buddies don’t even know the existence of aftermarket shafts, let alone the differences. But they do get spanking new drivers every couple of years. How much margin do you think those aftermarket shaft companies need to mark up to get the production going compared to the drivers? Something to think about if you are a regular Joe like me…
That is the one complaint I do have with the T1100 feels like a 2X4 when hitting it, I am going to the PGA Show so hoping to find similar characteristics to the T1100 with a slightly more softer shatf
eckdawg5 Actually I am now playing with the Fujikura Ventus shaft, more stable and much better dispersion. Started using that shaft after I went to the 2019 PGA Merchandise Show.
Glad to hear this topic get some attention. It's a shame that OEMs aren't required to provide real data on their shafts (frequency numbers at different places on the shaft, deflection board results, etc.) that would help knowledgeable consumer make better choices. Thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for walking us through this forest / matrices of shafts. From my prospective I’ve been confused for years on the what the differences are between all the shafts that are now available us - the consumer! Even more frustrating is trying to figure out which type of shaft is best for ones games.
Thanks David, another very informative video, always interesting, also it’s nice to know, we as consumers have you on our side, keep up the great work. 🏌️♂️👍
Once again you are enlightening me on a topic I’d been wondering about! Thanks so much! If This keeps up I might actually be able to have an Intelligent conversation with a fitter the next time I’m in the market for clubs! What a concept!! 😀
How can you tell if you are getting an aftermarket shaft on a site like EBay? Does Oban make shafts for club manufactures or just aftermarket shafts? Thanks.
At my local golf range. Everytime I bought a wood or hybrid and even a driver they put me in an Aldila Tour Green shaft. Currently in my bag i got a Titleist 816 H2 hybrid, with an Aldila Tour Green shaft. My question is why they keep putting me in this shaft and is this a good shaft? Thanks!
Awesome video. I've been doing a lot of 'studying' on this topic as I'm in the market and just recently went through a fitting. You didn't mention anything about the SST Pure process. This can help with manufacturer's wide tolerances in ensuring what you end up playing with is what you got fit for.(I think my fitter quoted me $35/shaft to do this) What are your thoughts on this? You focused on graphite shafts but I have been told tolerances can be even worse on steel shafts for irons. Again great video.
Hey David. Great video. What do you know about the Fuji Pro Green that Callaway is putting in the Epic? Is it a made for shaft? I can’t find anything definitive online.
I would like to talk about lighter shaft, as Tiger said is helping him I tried a set that I had given to my daughter and I have to tell you it made a whole of difference in positive way for me.
My dumb self has been playing a pxv tour 52 in stiff. I thought i had to have that non stock shaft. Don't ask my why. I'm a 90mph swinger and that board was killing me. I just got a new graffaloy blue axis in the mail yesterday. I put an adapter on it, butt trimmed it and grpped it. Will let you know How it works out in my sldr and xtd head later this week.
You didn't mention one of my favorite shaft makers Grafalloy. The OEM shafts are cheaper made shafts so the shaft maker can hit the price point the club maker requires to make its desired profit margin. You can buy after market shafts reasonably off of ebay and amazon. Problem is most people will still have to have someone else assemble their club. When you buy a club already assembled you get a crap shoot because they put them together according to the logo position and the logo is applied to the shaft by chance as to however the shaft rolls into the paint station. So you can buy an upgrade shaft from the manufacturer and still possibly get a worse club than with an OEM. Any shaft will perform the function of a shaft but to get the best performance from any shaft it MUST be properly alighned. The $1000 shaft or the $20 shaft will not perform to specifications if improperly alighned. At best the circumference of any shaft is an oval and if improperly alighned the shaft oscillation when flex is unloaded at impact will be an ovaling oscillation. If the shaft is Flat Line Oscillation alighned the shaft will flex straight back and forth. Not only that but if your shaft is alighned with a tighter curve of the oval in line with the face of the head the shaft will be stiffer and board like in feel also the bend profile will be altered. To further complicate matters some shafts are not even ovals having three or even four sharper curves in their circumference. So unless you can afford a $1,700 shaft that guarantees a nearly perfectly rounded circumference or get lucky you must get your shaft spine AND FLO alighned to get performance out of it. I have assembled and reassembled many clubs both graphite, steel and titanium shafts and I have only found one I could not find a spine on. Metal shafts only need to be spined. Graphite shafts should be FLOed also.
PuttsAround I have heard of the TPT shaft. They were about a thousand a shaft so they have dropped about 1/2 price. Still out of my price bracket. Matrix Ozik makes a $1,700 shaft. Rick Shiels did a video on it and his shaft he had in his driver out performed it. I paid about $20 for an I Drive iron shaft with nanotube technology. Part of its sales pitch was that it didn't have a spine. I got mine off of ebay and to say the least I was skeptical but only $20. I could not find a noticeable spine. The feel was a little boardy to me but the club I put it in was a straight shooter. It was back when I first started doing it myself. I upgraded and now three upgrades later club and shaft are long gone. Right now I am putting an Aldila DVS in my driver it is supposed to have a soft butt and a stiff tip that gives an extra kick at impact we will see but I did like the low torque. Anyway got some shaft shortening and regripping to do. Keep em in the short grass!
This dude and MySpy are both full of crap. NONE of these supposed theories are supported by any large companies manufacturing processes in any industry. The whole concept of "hand made" is crap as anyone that manufactures high tech/low tolerance products knows that computer managed machines are far more accurate than anything made by "hand" and lastly, anyone that is over a 5-7 handicap will have both no benefit or ability to self discern these wild ass theories while playing golf with after market vs stock golf shafts. The only thing right in this video is the fact that aftermarket shafts for the average golfer is at best marketing hype and will have virtually no effect on their game. The average golfer will benefit far more from instruction on how to improve their swing than spending a few hundred $$$ on an "after market shaft."
And by the way, when you're spending $4 to $5 hundred dollars for a new driver, manufactures OPTIMIZE their new drivers by matching a shaft with the new head that will MAXIMIZE performance for the greatest number of golfers.
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
The best thing you can do when selecting a shaft is to google the specs of that particular shaft to see what the flight ( high, mid or low ) is and what the torque rating is. I play the T1100 X-Stiff shaft that has a 2.8 torque rating and doesn't feel boardy. This is an amazing golf shaft which allows me to load it without feeling like I have to "hurry" my swing. I've played a X-Stiff shaft a few years back that was in the 2.1 torque rating range (stiffest rating possible) and it felt like a 2x4. Switching to the 2.8 torque rated shaft allowed me to more easily hit better tee balls without it feeling like I'm bludgeoning the ball.
good advice i bought the callaway xr16 driver hit it amazing in the fitting bay. Got it home took the wrapper off took it the course and it felt a completely different club. Had to get rid of it it the end as i never hit it like i did in testing.
Is there a comparison between identical shafts? Quality control? I and a friend bought identical TM drivers yet one club felt significantly different than the other.
It’s basically Honda vs. Mercedes. They both get you from point A to point B. There is no question about that. The differences kick in when the conditions become out of ordinary. If you commute 5 blocks at 35 mph, would it make such a difference besides feeling awesome sitting in a Merc? Now, you need to commute 25 miles at 80 mph. Statistically speaking, what are the chances of getting into life-threatening incidents compared to the 35 mph commute?
I think this is where the aftermarket shafts shine. It might be able to save your life by losing less control when you swerve or by protecting you in those better frames (materials) in a bad crash. Players with higher swing speeds who play a lot more often (like those PGA pros) will definitely benefit more from such mishits or less than perfect swings.
Besides, pros make money out of those tools so they don’t even need to justify the cost (and guess how much they pay for them - $0). Then again, there is absolutely no rule that a 60-old lady who only knows about putting gas in a car can’t drive a $200,000 Mercedes. If you got the money, get it and enjoy the ride.
But remember, most of my golf buddies don’t even know the existence of aftermarket shafts, let alone the differences. But they do get spanking new drivers every couple of years. How much margin do you think those aftermarket shaft companies need to mark up to get the production going compared to the drivers? Something to think about if you are a regular Joe like me…
Bat companies do repaints all the time. The fact is composite tech is so good it doesn't always get better every year.
I play the Project X Hzrdus T1100, and best shaft I have ever had in my driver
That is the one complaint I do have with the T1100 feels like a 2X4 when hitting it, I am going to the PGA Show so hoping to find similar characteristics to the T1100 with a slightly more softer shatf
@@simiangolf1927 1 year later, have you found anything different/better?
eckdawg5 Actually I am now playing with the Fujikura Ventus shaft, more stable and much better dispersion. Started using that shaft after I went to the 2019 PGA Merchandise Show.
Glad to hear this topic get some attention. It's a shame that OEMs aren't required to provide real data on their shafts (frequency numbers at different places on the shaft, deflection board results, etc.) that would help knowledgeable consumer make better choices. Thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for walking us through this forest / matrices of shafts. From my prospective I’ve been confused for years on the what the differences are between all the shafts that are now available us - the consumer! Even more frustrating is trying to figure out which type of shaft is best for ones games.
Man, that would be great! Can’t wait!
Thanks David, another very informative video, always interesting, also it’s nice to know, we as consumers have you on our side, keep up the great work. 🏌️♂️👍
Great video!!! Always felt and purchased more with the shaft in mind to equal performance.
Once again you are enlightening me on a topic I’d been wondering about! Thanks so much!
If This keeps up I might actually be able to have an Intelligent conversation with a fitter the next time I’m in the market for clubs! What a concept!!
😀
How can you tell if you are getting an aftermarket shaft on a site like EBay? Does Oban make shafts for club manufactures or just aftermarket shafts? Thanks.
At my local golf range. Everytime I bought a wood or hybrid and even a driver they put me in an Aldila Tour Green shaft. Currently in my bag i got a Titleist 816 H2 hybrid, with an Aldila Tour Green shaft. My question is why they keep putting me in this shaft and is this a good shaft? Thanks!
Awesome video. I've been doing a lot of 'studying' on this topic as I'm in the market and just recently went through a fitting. You didn't mention anything about the SST Pure process. This can help with manufacturer's wide tolerances in ensuring what you end up playing with is what you got fit for.(I think my fitter quoted me $35/shaft to do this) What are your thoughts on this? You focused on graphite shafts but I have been told tolerances can be even worse on steel shafts for irons. Again great video.
I would have to say that shafts have definitely improved. I remember how bad the shafts were in the first Callaway Woods.
Hey David, thanks for the warnings and the advice, as always you’re looking after us with some great tips.
Peter Atherton
Hey David. Great video. What do you know about the Fuji Pro Green that Callaway is putting in the Epic? Is it a made for shaft? I can’t find anything definitive online.
I would like to talk about lighter shaft, as Tiger said is helping him I tried a set that I had given to my daughter and I have to tell you it made a whole of difference in positive way for me.
My dumb self has been playing a pxv tour 52 in stiff. I thought i had to have that non stock shaft. Don't ask my why. I'm a 90mph swinger and that board was killing me. I just got a new graffaloy blue axis in the mail yesterday. I put an adapter on it, butt trimmed it and grpped it. Will let you know How it works out in my sldr and xtd head later this week.
Well the graffaloy is way too whippy even in stiff. Trying out some regular shafts tomorrow
You can't pronounce a 'k' and a 'r' sound together?
I’m 11:31 in and dude ain’t hit a ball yet
You didn't mention one of my favorite shaft makers Grafalloy. The OEM shafts are cheaper made shafts so the shaft maker can hit the price point the club maker requires to make its desired profit margin. You can buy after market shafts reasonably off of ebay and amazon. Problem is most people will still have to have someone else assemble their club. When you buy a club already assembled you get a crap shoot because they put them together according to the logo position and the logo is applied to the shaft by chance as to however the shaft rolls into the paint station. So you can buy an upgrade shaft from the manufacturer and still possibly get a worse club than with an OEM. Any shaft will perform the function of a shaft but to get the best performance from any shaft it MUST be properly alighned. The $1000 shaft or the $20 shaft will not perform to specifications if improperly alighned. At best the circumference of any shaft is an oval and if improperly alighned the shaft oscillation when flex is unloaded at impact will be an ovaling oscillation. If the shaft is Flat Line Oscillation alighned the shaft will flex straight back and forth. Not only that but if your shaft is alighned with a tighter curve of the oval in line with the face of the head the shaft will be stiffer and board like in feel also the bend profile will be altered. To further complicate matters some shafts are not even ovals having three or even four sharper curves in their circumference. So unless you can afford a $1,700 shaft that guarantees a nearly perfectly rounded circumference or get lucky you must get your shaft spine AND FLO alighned to get performance out of it. I have assembled and reassembled many clubs both graphite, steel and titanium shafts and I have only found one I could not find a spine on. Metal shafts only need to be spined. Graphite shafts should be FLOed also.
PuttsAround I have heard of the TPT shaft. They were about a thousand a shaft so they have dropped about 1/2 price. Still out of my price bracket. Matrix Ozik makes a $1,700 shaft. Rick Shiels did a video on it and his shaft he had in his driver out performed it. I paid about $20 for an I Drive iron shaft with nanotube technology. Part of its sales pitch was that it didn't have a spine. I got mine off of ebay and to say the least I was skeptical but only $20. I could not find a noticeable spine. The feel was a little boardy to me but the club I put it in was a straight shooter. It was back when I first started doing it myself. I upgraded and now three upgrades later club and shaft are long gone. Right now I am putting an Aldila DVS in my driver it is supposed to have a soft butt and a stiff tip that gives an extra kick at impact we will see but I did like the low torque. Anyway got some shaft shortening and regripping to do. Keep em in the short grass!
This dude and MySpy are both full of crap. NONE of these supposed theories are supported by any large companies manufacturing processes in any industry. The whole concept of "hand made" is crap as anyone that manufactures high tech/low tolerance products knows that computer managed machines are far more accurate than anything made by "hand" and lastly, anyone that is over a 5-7 handicap will have both no benefit or ability to self discern these wild ass theories while playing golf with after market vs stock golf shafts. The only thing right in this video is the fact that aftermarket shafts for the average golfer is at best marketing hype and will have virtually no effect on their game. The average golfer will benefit far more from instruction on how to improve their swing than spending a few hundred $$$ on an "after market shaft."
And by the way, when you're spending $4 to $5 hundred dollars for a new driver, manufactures OPTIMIZE their new drivers by matching a shaft with the new head that will MAXIMIZE performance for the greatest number of golfers.
stop shouting.