@@ArChi285 Yes! But diagnosis is only half the battle. I purchased Moog Brand parts (they have a grease zerk) and the job to remove the old ones was not easy but very straight forward. My problem was the nuts got rusty and they are difficult to remove so I had to use a cut off disc on my air powered die grinder. I popped the sway bar arm off the ball, then used Vise-Grip pliers to assist in turning the nut, but it was a fight. I actually cut into the nut and then turned it with a wrench another half turn then cut into the nut again and then the nut came off the sway bar using a hammer and chisel. Putting the new parts on is an easy job. If I had to do the job again it would go much quicker. Then of course, I greased them with the grease gun, the OEM parts were sealed and did not have zerks. The car drives quiet now.
Jim: I just wanted to give you a huge thanks for uploading this video! This is the 5 or 6th video I have found on RUclips that helped me with a repair on my 2008 Honda CRV. Your video not only educated me and showed me how to do it, but best of all save me $$ from a misdiagnosis from a money hungry service advisor! This repair was a little bit out of my comfort zone to take on myself, so I simply went to the advisor and told them "I needed to have my stabilizer link replaced". They charged me a half hour of labor and about $50 for the part. My bill would have very likely been much higher if I came in saying "my suspension is making a rattle noise" They would have charged me diagnosis, probably would have unnecessarily replaced my shocks and struts, bearings, and who knows what else! I was happy to walk out with a relatively low repair bill. THANK YOU JIM!
You are right about the misdiagnosis. Stokes Honda North (North Charleston, SC) replaced ball joints because of cracked boots, $328, and left me with the same noise.
@@jimsz0100 Sorry, you hadn't seen this video first. Update: 6 months later, my other stabilizer link went! It's good to be informed. I sold that 2008 with 320,000kms on it shortly after, and now I have a 2015 CRV! I have about 100,000kms on it, and I know what do do when I hear this rattle again!
The approach to finding this issue took you only moments. You've gotten pretty good at this stuff over the years so it's great you share your knowledge with us.
This vid made diagnosing the rattle in my wife’s CR-V easy. After watching I knew these stabilizer bar links were the culprit so I replaced them and the rattle is gone! I was able to just spin the top nuts off with an impact but the bottoms not so much. A die grinder with a cut-off wheel made pretty quick work of ‘em! Lack of clean access to the bottom nut was a big issue!
2012 Crv....sounds exactly like my problem! Great, to the point and process oriented. Thanks, also for using common tools! These repairs are a pain but super costly because of labor...and with my aging car, id rather spend the big bucks on drivetrain repair as opposed to maintenance and repair of non mechanically complicated parts
Patience saves time in the long run. The last one I did started to strip out when installing the new part with the new nylock. My fault as I had an impact on the allen key. For removal I find spray grease is better than penetrating oil at dragging the nut over rusted threads.
That's one thing I didn't change I put new struts and a arm bushings and ball joints and sway bar bushings and still make that noise I'm going to change sway bar links now thanks for the video
wao, thanks for the Intel, i have a Mitsubishi lancer and its been having that noise for so long at the front axle and now that you come up with this video i'll check the car to see if i can get it to work , thanks
Hi Jim, great video, I thought that's what was knocking on my 2011 uk crv but it's the brake caliper rattling on the slider pins, only fix is a new caliper, same fault on the Us Honda Odyssey too.
@@Gurucwd hi , caliper was rattling over a rough surface and I couldn't pin point what it was until I took the wheel off a tapped the caliper with a dead blow hammer , this gave the same noise . The caliper is large and has a lot of mass so any play in the bores or pins creates the rattle. I sold the car so never replaced the caliper.
Amazing walkthrough tutorial from beginning to end! I have the same vibration sound that emanates through the steering wheel, but I'm not getting any play in the sway bar links. There doesn't seem to be any unnecessary play in the tie rod ends. I'll have to investigate further, but do you have any ideas?
Great video Jim and I think you just helped me to diagnose the noise issues coming from the front left of my 08 CRV that I experienced recently. I will get it down to the mechanic to get this confirmed. If this is indeed the issues, do you recommend that I just replaced the front left or should I replace both sides? Mine is a right hand side drive CRV. Thanks a lot
Front end noise is so hard to determine,I had to replaced the left side bearing because that is where the noise is coming from driving with all the windows open and radio off and a c off,After replacing the bearing the damn noise is still there.Back to zero and replaced the right side and Bingo,Noise is gone and smooth quiet ride again.
Just need to LEARN how to check everything before you throw parts at it, ball joint, jack up until tire off ground, put a bar under tire and lift, if any play, then you may need lower ball joints could be upper as you look, then how he checked tie rod ends, perfect check. Same with this sway bar link, me if my vehicle or customer, I'm gonna get them to replace both if I can, then tell them to check tires for cupping incase. I'll even show them from the difference of needing ALIGNMENT to not. Don't want to waste tires, they cost enough the bigger they get. No more $200 for a set of tires unless used.
The technique you used to free the rusted nut will work nicely with any penetrating oil. Nice work. Do you think the new oil you used is any better than PB Blaster?
Great video! I have a creaking sound coming from the front end of a CRV. It seems to come from the lower control arm. What could be the culprit? The ball joint or a bushing?
I had a creaking noise on my 2011 CR-V and turned out to be the top strut mounts that I re-used when I installed new struts. Rookie mistake on my part, but like Jim stated, it's hard to diagnose without seeing it.
I'm getting a vibration and noise at the front end travelling at highway speeds intermittently on my 2ng gen crv. If I keep below 80km/hr it doesn't happen. Any ideas or tips to diagnose?
Using allen keys on cars should be banned by law. Strut top mounts, droplinks... I mean, what the hell were they thinking using a miniscule easy-to-break POS on parts that are guaranteed to rust-up.
Yes, even Toyota still use these silly design. But recently in newer Toyota, it has no hole anymore, it has hex nuts on the back, I believe it is 17mm.
W up men good jod got saing problemen the from 2000 crv 5 speed change the struts change thad to it still got the saing noise thing need check it see the noise my do like het metal it runing thank s much can healp me
Hi Jim, my question is not related to this video but I need to know how many pounds of pressure per square inch does a 2009 Honda CR-V window exert when the automatic window is rolling up. I hope you can answer my question and tell me where to find a written reference to see the answer. Thanks for all the great videos!!
My front brakes were changed and the garage put on "the standard brake pad and rotor" instead of Honda parts. As I drove out I noticed a scraping noise that increased with speed. Brought it back and they said " we don't see anything wrong." So what's causing the new noise? Any guesses? What should be my next step? Thank you.
? Why not replace otherside at same time with sway bar bushings with over 200 thousand miles on it ? If one went bad, then others soon to follow, these links are cheap enough and don't take long to make 100% right, then can have it Aligned also if tires wearing funny, otherwise you might waste MONEY on ALIGNMENT if other starts banging away in few weeks or 1,000 miles later. Fix the ENTIRE sway bar, call it done. To me, its like doing brakes, do one side, then do the other right ? Yes you do. I can buy these Moog same ones for $35 on parts, some other places charge more than company I use that's not FAKE or any thing like that, been using for a long time, if I had a GARAGE account, then same prices. They're a pain to replace, some use a Toque head that are junk, Plymouth minivans, cut those off pain in the ass, I even buy NGK plugs from them or from a HUGE RACING COMPANY you see going down the dragway that's cheaper on plugs, I prefer to buy LOCAL, won't buy from 2 places online, one guy worth a Trillion bucks and other starts with a vowel and ends with Bay, you get fakes from them on certain things. NGK plugs I hear they do. I guess its noticeable once in hands. Sorry but at $9 a plug over $15 to $23 on certain ones from auto parts stores that's local. This job here cost for one done with part cost from $60 to $120 from a MECHANIC, can buy $14 each and if goes well, 45 minutes with wheel. Just spray the nuts down a few days in a row before you fix it, gives it time to work into threads, Moog is the only one with grease fitting on this Honda that I know of, just grease them every oil change or every other, whatevers best.
It took 5 years but thanks for diagnosing my CRV in the future, almost replaced my drive axl. Many, many thanks. subscribed
This guy... Exactly what my crv needs.
Me too, I've been trying to find the noise for awhile.
@Elias Shadow@@tiredowalkin This is exactly my problem right now. Is it solved by this video?
@@ArChi285 Yes! But diagnosis is only half the battle. I purchased Moog Brand parts (they have a grease zerk) and the job to remove the old ones was not easy but very straight forward. My problem was the nuts got rusty and they are difficult to remove so I had to use a cut off disc on my air powered die grinder. I popped the sway bar arm off the ball, then used Vise-Grip pliers to assist in turning the nut, but it was a fight. I actually cut into the nut and then turned it with a wrench another half turn then cut into the nut again and then the nut came off the sway bar using a hammer and chisel. Putting the new parts on is an easy job. If I had to do the job again it would go much quicker. Then of course, I greased them with the grease gun, the OEM parts were sealed and did not have zerks. The car drives quiet now.
@@tiredowalkin it was tough fight hehe. Mine, I have changed the stabilizer link and ball joint but still there is “clunking.”
@@ArChi285, oh no! Could it be the strut? That will be even more work and expense!
Jim: I just wanted to give you a huge thanks for uploading this video! This is the 5 or 6th video I have found on RUclips that helped me with a repair on my 2008 Honda CRV. Your video not only educated me and showed me how to do it, but best of all save me $$ from a misdiagnosis from a money hungry service advisor! This repair was a little bit out of my comfort zone to take on myself, so I simply went to the advisor and told them "I needed to have my stabilizer link replaced". They charged me a half hour of labor and about $50 for the part. My bill would have very likely been much higher if I came in saying "my suspension is making a rattle noise" They would have charged me diagnosis, probably would have unnecessarily replaced my shocks and struts, bearings, and who knows what else! I was happy to walk out with a relatively low repair bill. THANK YOU JIM!
I did spray the penetrating oil on the nut a day prior to taking it in to the garage. I imagine that helped the mechanic!
I'm happy to help.Thank you for watching.
You are right about the misdiagnosis. Stokes Honda North (North Charleston, SC) replaced ball joints because of cracked boots, $328, and left me with the same noise.
@@jimsz0100 Sorry, you hadn't seen this video first. Update: 6 months later, my other stabilizer link went! It's good to be informed. I sold that 2008 with 320,000kms on it shortly after, and now I have a 2015 CRV! I have about 100,000kms on it, and I know what do do when I hear this rattle again!
The approach to finding this issue took you only moments. You've gotten pretty good at this stuff over the years so it's great you share your knowledge with us.
This vid made diagnosing the rattle in my wife’s CR-V easy. After watching I knew these stabilizer bar links were the culprit so I replaced them and the rattle is gone! I was able to just spin the top nuts off with an impact but the bottoms not so much. A die grinder with a cut-off wheel made pretty quick work of ‘em! Lack of clean access to the bottom nut was a big issue!
Thanks for your input and for watching.
2012 Crv....sounds exactly like my problem! Great, to the point and process oriented. Thanks, also for using common tools! These repairs are a pain but super costly because of labor...and with my aging car, id rather spend the big bucks on drivetrain repair as opposed to maintenance and repair of non mechanically complicated parts
Perfect diagnosis intro and straight to the solution! Going to fix this for my dads CRV
Those can be a pain. Nicely done Jim!
Patience saves time in the long run.
The last one I did started to strip out when installing the new part with the new nylock. My fault as I had an impact on the allen key.
For removal I find spray grease is better than penetrating oil at dragging the nut over rusted threads.
I find these end links are always stubborn to remove. Good work Jim.
The same noise has my honda cr-v 2008 buy Set of pairs of links of the front stabilizer bar MOOG I will replace them thanks for your tutorial
No problem 👍Thanks for watching.
Sawzall with a metal cutting blade works for me. Good Job Jim!
That's one thing I didn't change I put new struts and a arm bushings and ball joints and sway bar bushings and still make that noise I'm going to change sway bar links now thanks for the video
Thanks for the video! This was exactly the issue on my CRV and thanks to you I was able to diagnose and fix it.
wao, thanks for the Intel, i have a Mitsubishi lancer and its been having that noise for so long at the front axle and now that you come up with this video i'll check the car to see if i can get it to work , thanks
Did it go?
Hi Jim, great video, I thought that's what was knocking on my 2011 uk crv but it's the brake caliper rattling on the slider pins, only fix is a new caliper, same fault on the Us Honda Odyssey too.
How did you diagnose the caliper issue?
@@Gurucwd hi , caliper was rattling over a rough surface and I couldn't pin point what it was until I took the wheel off a tapped the caliper with a dead blow hammer , this gave the same noise . The caliper is large and has a lot of mass so any play in the bores or pins creates the rattle. I sold the car so never replaced the caliper.
That was a wonderfully well thought out and easy to follow video. Super helpful and informative. Thank you.
Great video, Would you recommend doing both sides at the same time or just the one that's bad?, Thanks
I got a 07 crv with 260k miles runs like a new car butine has that same noise thanks for the video!
Amazing walkthrough tutorial from beginning to end! I have the same vibration sound that emanates through the steering wheel, but I'm not getting any play in the sway bar links. There doesn't seem to be any unnecessary play in the tie rod ends. I'll have to investigate further, but do you have any ideas?
Great video Jim and I think you just helped me to diagnose the noise issues coming from the front left of my 08 CRV that I experienced recently. I will get it down to the mechanic to get this confirmed. If this is indeed the issues, do you recommend that I just replaced the front left or should I replace both sides? Mine is a right hand side drive CRV. Thanks a lot
I usually recommend replacing both but you could just replace the one. Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
@@jimthecarguy Thanks for the advise Jim. I will get both replaced if that is indeed the issues. Yes I had subscribed.
Annoying clunk gone, nice fix Jim.
Would you suggest I can put some never seized lubricant if this is my own personal vehicle?
Yes that will be very helpful.
Thank you. I would add: make sure you have a pneumatic 3" cut off tool...
Front end noise is so hard to determine,I had to replaced the left side bearing because that is where the noise is coming from driving with all the windows open and radio off and a c off,After replacing the bearing the damn noise is still there.Back to zero and replaced the right side and Bingo,Noise is gone and smooth quiet ride again.
Just need to LEARN how to check everything before you throw parts at it, ball joint, jack up until tire off ground, put a bar under tire and lift, if any play, then you may need lower ball joints could be upper as you look, then how he checked tie rod ends, perfect check. Same with this sway bar link, me if my vehicle or customer, I'm gonna get them to replace both if I can, then tell them to check tires for cupping incase. I'll even show them from the difference of needing ALIGNMENT to not. Don't want to waste tires, they cost enough the bigger they get. No more $200 for a set of tires unless used.
Greetings for you from Iraq
Thanks for watching!
Great video Jim. Thanks much for your time ❤
The technique you used to free the rusted nut will work nicely with any penetrating oil. Nice work. Do you think the new oil you used is any better than PB Blaster?
Thanks for watching. Actually I like PB blaster better.
@@jimthecarguy hello I like to know how you called the part so you can get them from a auto parts
Great help thanks for your support
Great video! I have a creaking sound coming from the front end of a CRV. It seems to come from the lower control arm. What could be the culprit? The ball joint or a bushing?
It is hard to tell without seeing it. Thanks for watching.
I had a creaking noise on my 2011 CR-V and turned out to be the top strut mounts that I re-used when I installed new struts. Rookie mistake on my part, but like Jim stated, it's hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Hello.. Thanks for video...i want ask what produk u change i want buy?
An excellent presentation
Jim, what part was that that you replaced on this video? Exactly have the same issue on my 08 CRV
Will this need to go for alignment? I was told CRVs don't align like other cars.
I have a 2008. How is my bolt size a 18m instead of 17? I replaced shocks yesterday.
Thank you sir for the amazing tutorial.
Well done good job
I'm getting a vibration and noise at the front end travelling at highway speeds intermittently on my 2ng gen crv. If I keep below 80km/hr it doesn't happen. Any ideas or tips to diagnose?
Good job
Any word about when the Honda Navigation clock bug will be fixed?
Exactly with my 2013. I replaced the stabilizer link but still.
My 21 lx crv awd still makes that noise after replacing the stabilizer link
What is the torque specs. on the bolts for the sway bar?
If I’m going to replace the sway bar links should I replace them all or just the faulty one?
You could just replace the one if the other side is still good. Thanks for watching.
Good tip, thanks Jim
How about when steering to the left or right i hear a rubbing sound i am using stock wheels for my CRV
those are a pain I usually break it off its plastic and vice grips on the ball then impact the nut
I gave it a few whacks with a 3 or 4 lb hammer. No impact but with vise grips on the ball and a breaker bar; worked like a charm.
Using allen keys on cars should be banned by law. Strut top mounts, droplinks... I mean, what the hell were they thinking using a miniscule easy-to-break POS on parts that are guaranteed to rust-up.
Yes, even Toyota still use these silly design. But recently in newer Toyota, it has no hole anymore, it has hex nuts on the back, I believe it is 17mm.
Thank you so much
My 2016 CRV only has 40,000 miles and its making similar noise. How could that be?
Is this your CRV Jim..?? These drop links can be a real pain to replace.. :-/ Good job done..
alstirling69
I think it is his CRV. Looked like he was doing that in his home garage. Jack and no lift.
Torque specifications?
Thank you sir!
Hadir menyimak👍👍
W up men good jod got saing problemen the from 2000 crv 5 speed change the struts change thad to it still got the saing noise thing need check it see the noise my do like het metal it runing thank s much can healp me
Good job stuff works ok my boss doesn’t have patiences for me to use that stuff
I hate oem sway bars on Honda CRV I stripped it because I couldn’t take the nut off so then I just cut it off
Hi Jim, my question is not related to this video but I need to know how many pounds of pressure per square inch does a 2009 Honda CR-V window exert when the automatic window is rolling up. I hope you can answer my question and tell me where to find a written reference to see the answer. Thanks for all the great videos!!
Good question but I have no idea.
i got a new key made from the dealership, had to leave my car there for a couple hours and now i have this problem.
I need a lower ball joint do you recommend a moog brand or Honda oem.
Moog is acceptable for 3-5 years but OEM last longer.
Sway bar end link is a pain in the ass
Thanks for watching.
my crv I have changed the absorber,absorber mouthing,sway bar link and bushing,lower amr ball joint front and back replacement but still have noise😥
Check that no nut/bolt has loosened up over time. Use a pry bar on anything that moves :)
My front brakes were changed and the garage put on "the standard brake pad and rotor" instead of Honda parts. As I drove out I noticed a scraping noise that increased with speed. Brought it back and they said " we don't see anything wrong." So what's causing the new noise? Any guesses? What should be my next step? Thank you.
Should have wire brushed the thread first
Why did it take so long to tighten one bolt
.
Had to cut mine out. Each one. But it wasn't that bad
Thanks for watching.
"Cutting them off is a pain in the rear end"... In this case it was the "front end." 😊
Key word " penetrating oil"
I have the noise. change both links ant the bushing. Still have the noise. what should i check next. Ps also change the control arm
Ok god this is what’s wrong with my car!
Looks similar to 2005 model
? Why not replace otherside at same time with sway bar bushings with over 200 thousand miles on it ? If one went bad, then others soon to follow, these links are cheap enough and don't take long to make 100% right, then can have it Aligned also if tires wearing funny, otherwise you might waste MONEY on ALIGNMENT if other starts banging away in few weeks or 1,000 miles later. Fix the ENTIRE sway bar, call it done. To me, its like doing brakes, do one side, then do the other right ? Yes you do. I can buy these Moog same ones for $35 on parts, some other places charge more than company I use that's not FAKE or any thing like that, been using for a long time, if I had a GARAGE account, then same prices. They're a pain to replace, some use a Toque head that are junk, Plymouth minivans, cut those off pain in the ass, I even buy NGK plugs from them or from a HUGE RACING COMPANY you see going down the dragway that's cheaper on plugs, I prefer to buy LOCAL, won't buy from 2 places online, one guy worth a Trillion bucks and other starts with a vowel and ends with Bay, you get fakes from them on certain things. NGK plugs I hear they do. I guess its noticeable once in hands. Sorry but at $9 a plug over $15 to $23 on certain ones from auto parts stores that's local. This job here cost for one done with part cost from $60 to $120 from a MECHANIC, can buy $14 each and if goes well, 45 minutes with wheel. Just spray the nuts down a few days in a row before you fix it, gives it time to work into threads, Moog is the only one with grease fitting on this Honda that I know of, just grease them every oil change or every other, whatevers best.
Torch them off and replace.....done.
Thanks for watching.
Idk man. U might have to put camera in better place. All im staring at is the back of ur head. We dont get to see any of the work. Idk
.