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How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 07-16 Honda CR-V
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2018
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New Sway Bar Link Set from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASFK02587
In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to remove, replace, and install a sway bar end link. This video is applicable to the 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Honda CR-V
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Honda CR-V
2008 Honda CR-V
2009 Honda CR-V
2010 Honda CR-V
2011 Honda CR-V
🔧 List of tools used:
• 17mm Wrench 1aau.to/oap/1AXAA00010
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/oap/1AXAA00010
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/ocv/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oaS/1AXAA00043
• Large Locking Pliers
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/oC/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oc4/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/ocv/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/obq/1AXAA00044
• 3/4 Inch Wrench
• Rust Penetrant
• 6mm Allen Wrench 1aau.to/og/1AXAA00007
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oay/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oac/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oat/1AXAA00065
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/oE/1AXAA00079
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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You know this job is going to be a pain when the dude in the professional video is even having trouble.
Thank you for the very informative and comprehensive video. I used all of your steps to try and remove these easily accessible but extremely difficult nuts on my 2007 CRV. 1/2 hour with cheater/hammer/mapp gas on the upper end to get it out. 1 hour on the lower + fire cloth to protect sensor wire, brake line and cv boots only to get it a bit loose. Finally 5 minutes with Lennox diamond cut off wheel in angle grinder-yes, I had to cut through the relatively large diameter flange against the sway bar because I could not loosen nut enough for clearance to the screw shank (which would have taken only a minute to grind). Next time I will go straight to the grinder and save all that aggravation. The new Moog link has a hex flange on the ball side rather than that stupid hex hole in the end of the screw, making for much easier installation, and maybe removal if it goes bad in the next 220,000 miles.
Could hardly ask for a better video, in every regard. Thank you.
Wow...thanks for a REAL video showing what a pain these links are to remove .. ALl the other vids you see on youtube show a quick spray of WD40 and suddenly as if my magic everything can easily be removed. Ive done front and back links on my CRV. Fronts I managed to get them off the anti roll bar but impossible to get either side of the strut. Backs came off the struts but not the anti roll bar.
1A auto has been my go to for auto repair. They really understand how to explain to someone who isn't a pro.
Glad you troubleshooted the stuck pieces removal in the beginning with solutions. Thank you!
+Andrew Harichandran Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
First time see a mechanic who cares about customer wheels and hubs. Usually they use guns to remore and tight wheel nuts and don't care about torque.
This was my issue and your video helped! My car drives like new! Thank you so much!!
+DeRock1701 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Love all of their simple videos!
Thanks for sharing! Very helpful but where's the anti-seize?
Excellent video
Thank you for the video
Need to do this repair this week on wife's 2009 CR-V, we had the driver side done by mechanic, should have done both sides. Advice do both side if you are doing one side... Suggestion would also be if you can't get the nut out you might be able to use a nut cutter and make your life easier. Good video and thank you
It's quite the pain to try to use a nut splitter on those flanged nuts. The results are mixed at best.
Thanks for sharing.
Good video. Make sure you have a 3" cut off tool for the bottom nut.
Realistic video. I love this!
+@trevordoeseverything219 Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Could anyone advise how to make suspension softer.
Own honda crossroad and it's nightmare in relation to suspension.
Car on Irish roads, need clever advice.
Shock absorbers were replaced on brand new genuine but didn't help at all...
If you have wire that is next to sway bar, sliced then how do you fix that and what that wire is called 🤔 . The little white wire that is attached to the wall.
if you are replacing the strut as well save your time and just cut the sway bars much faster and easier.
Cut the sway bars?? OR did you mean "cut the sway bar links".
1. I liked how you used the 3M green masking tape to hide the brand name of the penetrant company.
2. Was curious why you used a 3/4"ratchet wrench for the tightening on the top fastener but went back to a 19mm for the torque application. The nuts I got with my NAPA "kit" didn't even have round bores for the stud and the disfigurement of the nut's hexagonal pattern made for a terrible attachment surface for either box end wrench, socket, or ratchet wrench. I ended up having to run a 12mm.x 1.25 tape though all four nuts to clean up the distortion in the thread bore. IF this was China's method to make a locking flange nut, they failed miserably, especially when the installer was going to have trouble with the stud spinning. To make sure the nuts didn't vibrate loose 5-10 years down the road, I simply used a thread locker product on the stud threads. The nuts from the rear links kit made in Thailand had no such trouble
4. Was curious how you got the torque wrench in the tight spaces for the application of the 58-9 ft. pounds for the bottom fastener? This isn't the first 1A Auto video that has edited out or skipped over a "challenging" strep in the procedure.
5. Even though it cost me $7 to purchase a pair of the Dremel stainless steel flat (as opposed to the cup style ) wire brush to get more rust off the exposed threads during removal, it was worth it. After applying the penetrant and waiting a few minutes, working the brush around the area where the penetrant needed access to the area where the stud and met, and then working outward to clean the rest of the threads, I reapplied the penetrant . I didn't see the benefit of the hand brushing as demonstrated in the video, especially since you couldn't get full 360 degree contact.with the bristles.
Take out the top nuts first on both sides, take off both sides rod bushes holders (very important), than pull the rod out little to one side when you work on the lower nut, you will have enough room, do the same on the other side, it's very easy to take the lower nut off actually.
Please help me I what to know which car shares shock absorber with Honda crossroad 2008.2007.
Are you supposed to torque down the links when there's a little bit of weight on the car?
Can you share torque spec for low ? You mentioned top one to be 58 foot per pound
I just did this job and can confirm it is a pain. Had to cut off the bottom bolt with a grinder.
I have a question: I hear a "clacking" apparently from the sway bar link on my driver side. I was inspecting both sides of my car and I can NOT see any loose or broken part on my links. they look like they are just fine. But clacking only when I pass uneven surface, little holes or bumps, on even roads car is smooth. I wonder if the problem is this link (although I don't see any damage) . I appreciate any input regarding this matter. Nice video. Thank you
Maybe its just starting, it will get worse as the balls on both ends get eaten up or ground up by the surrounding metal if it is the Links. But I would get a second opinion before doing anything. If its over... or at.... 10 years, just replace them cause they will go soon afterwards is my experience.
I didn't see any visual damage but if you play with the actual part, you can hear the noise and see movement.
5:40 How do you get a torque wrench on that lower nut? The top is hard enough, but that bottom one,,,wow.
Do you think they tight it to a specific torque when it was built?
To torque the lower nut, with the vehicle jacked up and supported by a jack stand under the frame, jack the lower control arm up by placing a jack under the ball joint and lifting the lower control arm until it’s parallel to the central axis of the stabilizer link stud. This should let you get a torque wrench on the nut. It will still be tight, but I just did this on a ‘13 crv today and it worked well.
is this on one side or both sides
Is an alignment recommended after replacement or not necessary?
Not necessary, these components have nothing to do with alignment 👍
@2:32 I'm gonna have to use that Whizzer ( whatever that is, probably a cutting disc on a die grinder)on that top stud. It's being very stubborn.
Thanks for the update
I thought he might be referring to those oscillating cutting tools used in cutting drywall etc. They make blades designed for cutting tile and hard metals that might get in there to cut.. A die grinder, especially like the Milwaukee battery powered tool, might My sawzall with metal blade did nothing to cut the hardened steel shafts. My Bosch battery angle grinder with the super thin cutoff wheel wasn't a great fit, but I was all I had to access the tight spots. Face Shield mandatory!!
Are you sure on that stabilizer link there is a 6mm Allen socket and not a torx ?
I would think that inspecting the bore on the new part would answer your question
I need to replace the front sway bar, how hard is it to remove the sway bar on 2007 CRV.
+D Campbell Thanks for checking us out! The process will be the same for your 2007 CR-V, hopefully without needing to torch the old sway bar off! 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto it's not the links, it's the sway bar itself
@@davecampbell1056 you remove the links and the sway bar comes off derp derp
I also questioned the use of a steel hammer on a nice wrench. Might've been better to at least suggest to use a brass or lead headed hammer to minimize damage to the wrench shaft.
I have been a marine engineer for 45 years and used countless steel hammers on countless wrenches. Never hurt the wrenches. Some I still have from the 1970's. I think the steel on steel gives a sharper impact. However, I have broken a few wrenches and sockets using cheater bars
Hold the sway bar steady when hitting with a hammer.
If you let the sway bar bounce, that will rob the energy from your hammer blow.
Place A pry bar or jack under the sway bar.
Thanks for checking us out and your feedback! 1aauto.com +deasttn
ALL of these in this era of Honda do this. Why'd they not use galvanized or stainless hardware? ugh
I would never buy a sway bar link with and ellen ratchet that is the biggest mistake you can make because changing that in the future is pain in the ass. If you have cutting tools no problem if you don’t have cutting tools good luck
Moog sway bar links have 18mm flats on the stud side. Makes installation and removal much easier. Make sure to coat the threads with anti-seize on the new ones to make them a bit easier to remove in the future.
Why look so much corrosion any where at this CRV. I have it same age , same model. But look not so corrosive at understelle/join part. Where the car using for routine or daily drive.
+Untung Tunggaljaya Thanks for checking us out. The vehicles that we use in our videos are from an area that has heavy salt usage in the winter time causing the corrosion to be amplified due to the nature of the salt.
As Neil Young said...RUST NEVER SLEEPS!
I laugh at some of these videos because there is 0 rust, up here in Canada rust never sleeps as CenterTree777 says lol. Great video, clean garage!!!!
@@CenterTree777 neither does hillary clinton
I like the way they show how to fix the car but the parts were not at all usable. I bought the sway bar links and the bolts do not screw all the way down as the bolts were stripped. I will not buy any more parts from 1A auto parts. I could get the same parts somewhere else cheaper and half the price, like on ebay. I bought from them thinking they have a solid reputation. Now I have to buy bolts to fix the car I drive everyday. I can't wait for a return. I paid so much for absolutely no reason. Incredibly disappointed and furious.
+Tariq Mahmood We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience. Please contact our Customer Service Department directly so we can assist you with your order.