You are the first guy on RUclips that doesn't rattle on trying to get your info out. So many men just babble on incessantly. Tx for the clear & concise instructions along with the excellent video footage.
I didn't have the fancy tools for the job, but your video saved me a pricey labor charge at the repair shop! My neighbor and I were able to change out my wife's CRV alternator in just a couple of hours with basic wrenches. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's a great service to DIYers everywhere!
Definitely giving you the credit for actually doing this the easiest way possible. It’s so much easier when you remove the tire and splash guard. Thank you! You saved me soo much pain and time
I have to replace the alternator on my wife’s crv soon so I’ve been watching various videos, yours by far is the best on this procedure! Thanks a bunch! 😊
This is the most logical and well laid out how-to CRV alternator replacement video on youtube. Thank you very much for taking the time to document your work. It saved me time and money. It was still a huge pain the the rear to complete the replacement but I can't imagine how hard it would've been without your help!
What worked for me was removing the radiator fan next to the alternator as well as removing the bolts to the upper radiator support/brace, but not completely removing. This gave me so much more room to work that it was worth the additional 20 mins effort.
Watched a few vids on how to do this and went with yours. Much appreciated!!! It took me about 3 hours. Those 2 bottom bolts on the alternator kicked my butt. I didn’t have a ratchet with that swivel like you did. It would have probably made it easier and saved me some time.
Agreed! Straight to the point. No unnecessary info or wasted time- basically, thanks for taking the time to edit! This will save me a lot of money in DIY. Thank you!!!
Very helpful video, thanks man. Piece of advice to others: prop the hood with a 2x4 or something. That way the prop rod can be folded down out of your way.
Thank you so much! My husband and I just did it in the course of two days lol with lots of breaks, we’re amateurs. My dad is a mechanic and he does most of these kind of things for us but he’s on a much deserved vacation so we had to figure it out. Thanks for your video it was really helpful. 🎉
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. One thing I found was moving the tension pully makes it easier to pull the old alternator out and get the new one in
Best video out there. Just replaced my alternator and this video and comments made changing out the alternator a couple hour job with no surprises. Car is back on the road today and charging fine.
Brian Thank you for the exact fast perfect to the tee video. My wife’s alternator went out last night and so today I am going to take out the bad alternator and have my local ignition shop rebuild it fresh so that I keep the original Honda part/casing. Going to go purchase a nice Serpentine Belt Tool kit as that is always a good investment. Of course replace the serpentine belt as well. I also became member to ALLDATA for my my wife’s CR-V and my Toyota Highlander, wonderful portal for all the DIY info you’ll need for car repair. Thank you very much Brian!!
Thanks for the great video. The belt and bolt diagrams was a big help. I'm pretty good working on my own cars once I have an idea of what to do. People like you save me tons of time trying to figure out the best route to do a part change.
Used this to make a how to list on replacing alternator and belt, haven't used it yet, but I hope my dad and I get it right, thank you for having the specific video I need, we need both belt and alternator, this was super helpful.
Excellent video! Straight and to the point with good angles and lighting. Saved me couple hundred dollars by doing it myself. I'll be grabbing some of your merch!
Thanks for the video bud, I work at a Chevy dealer and have never dealt with many Honda’s, this saved me a lot of time, and made me good money as well 🤙🏻
This helped me a lot, I did my GF's 08 CRV. A couple of things, I came across. I tried to reuse my belt, and I accidentally got it caught behind my new alternator and there's no way I was taking it off again, so be mindful of that. I was able to barely get the passenger side bolt cracked with a 18" breaker bar and a short 12mm, then I took a 1" extension with the bar and 12mm to break the driver side bolt free, there is an AC line in the way of that one... Then I went back up and was able to take the two bottom bolts off by hand, standing facing away from the car... Remember to leave the top bolt in place so you can easily remove the bottom bolts. Other than that, the only advice I would like to give, is make sure you have a SHORT 16 point mm socket for the belt pulley, I rented one from Advanced Auto, and it was a 5 point, and no matter which way I oriented it, there wasn't enough room to pull on the pulley.
Muchas gracias por tu profesional ayuda,esta mañana se lo cambiamos al CRV de mi esposa,nos tomó around 4 hours pero logramos hacerlo y ya quedó bien,gracias nuevamente por tu asistencia profesional
Great video. Just did this on a friend’s CRV. I didn’t remove the tire. Just turned the wheel all the way right. I also removed the cooling fan so I could see the two lower bolts on the alternator and actually get a socket wrench on them. Clockwise to get tension off the belt. I used the old box end slipped over the open end wrench trick to extend the wrench and pull on the tensioner. Great video though. I’m no expert. Helped a ton.
Thanks. The pace of the video is beautiful. I felt like a midwife getting the alternator to pass through on the way out. FYI, if you use a piece of clothesline rope as a handle (or heavy gauge wire, etc) through one of the bolt holes it makes it so much easier. After playing with it with my big hands in the way, and not getting it out, I used the rope for a handle and pulled it in seconds because I could see all the obstructions better.
Thanks Dude! Helped a LOT! Got the alternator in without much trouble but sadly though I didn't have the proper wrenches and striped the nut on the tensioner... Had to order a new one and ordered a long wrench like you used. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
6 years later and I found this video. Thank you so much!! I'm stuck at a part in your video and I'm not sure how to proceed. I'm sure it's an easy hurdle but I'm not jumping it lol
@@HowtoAutomotive my Honda CRV 2010 I replaced the alternator and the battery and this was a month ago. I replace another battery do to it not holding a charge and the battery light dose not go off and when I took it to get a diagnosis they said nothing was wrong with it that the cable wires need to be tightened up and to drive it around so it will catch a charge. I did that and the car dyed so now I am charging my battery up. Do you think I need a new alternator?
I do appreciate you video with all the helpful information - alas, us mere mortals don't have all the cool specialty tools you used for this repair... after hours of attempting it this way, I gave up and took out the radiator/fan assembly and front crossbar - only then did I have enough access to get this cursed thing out with regular shallow and deep well sockets. I still had to buy specialty tools for the tensioner and crossbar and other bolts - I bought a set of 12pt swiverl headed wratcheting wrenches (which stripped off one of the alternator bolt heads), thus necessitating pulling the radiator... if you do this all day long, my hat's off to you. I have done hundreds of repairs as a shade-tree mechanic and this is the second worst I think... but memory fades. Thanks again for your immense help!
Thanks for the video, helped a lot. A couple place I had issues to assist others on my 07 CRV. The bottom bolt holding the alt closet to the center of the engine had an AC pipe making it difficult to get a socket/ratchet on. I gave the pipe a little nudge which gave me just enough room to break the torque from below. Also, I could not get the alt out despite numerous attempts due to clearance. I need a 2nd person to pull forward on the tensioner bolt which in-turn pushed it back to the firewall and gave me enough room to remove the alt. Will need to do the same to install the new one. Had to get the steering pump right out of the way to get at the tensioner again. Cheers!
Hey would you happen to know what this problem is in my Honda?? I’ll be driving normally then when I press the break and turn to the right and press the gas it doesn’t want to go like the gas peddle isn’t registering to the car to go almost like the car is shutting off but everything’s still on and normal just no gas. It’s only when I turn-press the break-then gas peddle and it slows down eventually when I press the gas peddle harder it will pick up and go. 😭
@@frenchtoast4630 I haven't had that issue. The gas peddle is electronic (no cable), so could be an issue there or the throttle body needs calibration (can be done thru OBD2 connector under dash). If it only happens when turning, could be something with fuel pump. Does it happen only near empty or not matter?
@@Looneeclip I had half a tank so I don’t think it has to do with that, you might be right on the fuel pump tho. Is it real hard to repair that I’m trying to figure it out 😣
Great video! It helped me out a lot but I didn't have to take the tire off or any of the dust covers. A couple of good flexhead ratchets help greatly. I did almost everything with quarter-inch Drive.
I just did this on an FRV. It has far less space than this but all the fixings are almost identical. I had to remove the rad and engine mounting bolts to push the engine back an inch!!! Absolutely Horrid job on an FRV but this vid gave me a good head start.
PLEASE EVERYONE GET THE 7PK1755, GOES RIGHT ON AFTER 8 HOURS OF STRUGGLE WITH THE 1745. Mileage improved by 20% after change! Excellent helpful video!!
If you have power tools, this job is made 10x easier by jacking up the engine slightly and removing that motor mount blocking the tensioner. Provides plenty space. Just keep track of the bolts well, that motor mount is certainly a contraption. Might be a good time to replace it and the Tensioner as well
You don't loosen the tensioner pully bolt just push down like your tightening it and hold it while you remove the belt. It even shows that in the printed diagram he has look what way the arrow points.
Great video, I just did this job yesterday (01/14/25) and have a few observations: 1) I have no idea how you got the two bolts located at the bottom of the alternator out. I have an AC hard line that runs right by one of the bolts and after messing around with it I found it was just easier to drop the four bolts on the AC compressor which moved it and the hard line out of the way. Note: the compressor has notches at the top of the case that fit into notches on the block. It is possible to bolt it back in incorrectly! Make sure the top notches are in the proper location. 2) Once you have the PS pump and alternator out (or out of the way) now is the time to replace the tensioner and water pump if they are needed. The CRV I was working on (2007, 140K) had all original accessories, and everything was due for replacement. The tensioner bearing sounded horrible and upon pulling the old water pump I noted residue was starting to form in the weep hole. If you are going this far you might as well get the other items replaced.
Thanks for making this video. I need to do this job on my 2007 CRV and replace the belt tensioner too. Is there any significant advantage in also removing the passenger side motor mount to gain better access ? I will either get the alternator rebuilt locally or buy a Denso reman from RA.
This guy makes it look so easy with power tools let him try doing it with hand tools and see what he gets it'll take him a long time unless it's a brand new car. So take what you want from that so far it's taking me 4 hours to try to get the alternator out of the the car I have removed all the plastic molding the tire and everything it is still not easy to access the nuts and it is not easy to get the damn thing out
Can you say exactly what ratchet and what extension you are using to get the first bolt of the power steering pump out (around 3:07). It seems my current ratchet is barely to wide to be used in that tight space. It bumps up against the structure right next to it.
@@HowtoAutomotive when you say 3H ratchet, did you mean 3/8 ratchet? I googled "3H ratchet" and couldn't find anything, so I'm assuming this is just a text-to-speech typo
Wow an awesome and A successful job done I did run into a few snags like getting the tensioner pulled and I accidentally snapped a wheel stud off but hey I’m learning thank you for the awesome video
There are several Gen 3 alternator replacement videos on youtube. They all don't show in real time the removal of the two lower bottom bolts on the alternator. Why? Because they are a b-iatch to remove. I'm not a mechanic or an expert but I've done three of these using different strategies. IMHO If I was to do another I would just remove the front bulkhead and A/C Condenser fan to get easier access to the two lower bolts. The 10-15 mins extra minutes to do this is worth it to not have to deal with the blind and very very tight access lower bolt removal. Only thing to worry about are the fan bolts which on Northern vehicles can be rusted out and could break the plastic fan shroud on removal. Still even if you don't remove the fan the increased radiator/fan flex you get with the bulkhead removed is worth it. Just my $0.02.
I will add that when extracting the old alternator, I positioned it with the pulley straight up, and the top of the unit (single bolt hole) facing to the right. In this position, I was able to pull it out without actuating the tensioner to provide additional clearance.
You are the first guy on RUclips that doesn't rattle on trying to get your info out. So many men just babble on incessantly. Tx for the clear & concise instructions along with the excellent video footage.
I didn't have the fancy tools for the job, but your video saved me a pricey labor charge at the repair shop! My neighbor and I were able to change out my wife's CRV alternator in just a couple of hours with basic wrenches. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's a great service to DIYers everywhere!
I’m just an average dude with a basic tool set, and step by step, following your video, I was done in under 2 hours! Thank you for posting this!
Definitely giving you the credit for actually doing this the easiest way possible. It’s so much easier when you remove the tire and splash guard. Thank you! You saved me soo much pain and time
Awesome video!!! Clear, consise, straight to the issue. No music.... excellent work sir. Thanks you!!!!
Thank you for watching!
I have to replace the alternator on my wife’s crv soon so I’ve been watching various videos, yours by far is the best on this procedure! Thanks a bunch! 😊
Thank you and good luck with your wife’s car!
This is the most logical and well laid out how-to CRV alternator replacement video on youtube. Thank you very much for taking the time to document your work. It saved me time and money. It was still a huge pain the the rear to complete the replacement but I can't imagine how hard it would've been without your help!
What worked for me was removing the radiator fan next to the alternator as well as removing the bolts to the upper radiator support/brace, but not completely removing. This gave me so much more room to work that it was worth the additional 20 mins effort.
Watched a few vids on how to do this and went with yours. Much appreciated!!! It took me about 3 hours. Those 2 bottom bolts on the alternator kicked my butt. I didn’t have a ratchet with that swivel like you did. It would have probably made it easier and saved me some time.
Hey Bro
This is Fantastic I’m so grateful for people like you that put out content like this. Your awesome keep up the great work 🙏
daddyVILLE808 thank you! Glad to help.
Agreed! Straight to the point. No unnecessary info or wasted time- basically, thanks for taking the time to edit! This will save me a lot of money in DIY. Thank you!!!
You just saved me so much money! Perfectly guided diy! Did it alone - took me about 3.5 hrs.
Very helpful video, thanks man. Piece of advice to others: prop the hood with a 2x4 or something. That way the prop rod can be folded down out of your way.
Thank you so much! My husband and I just did it in the course of two days lol with lots of breaks, we’re amateurs. My dad is a mechanic and he does most of these kind of things for us but he’s on a much deserved vacation so we had to figure it out. Thanks for your video it was really helpful. 🎉
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. One thing I found was moving the tension pully makes it easier to pull the old alternator out and get the new one in
1:47 - Surprised no one has mentioned this, but you are supposed to turn clockwise to loosen the tension of the pulley, NOT counterclockwise.
But that is what he did.
@@moethedeaf2746yes, but he said counterclockwise
@@RoyGregorio Sorry then. I am hard of hearing and I only go by the illustration. If he verbally said counterclockwise, he is wrong and you are right.
Best video out there. Just replaced my alternator and this video and comments made changing out the alternator a couple hour job with no surprises. Car is back on the road today and charging fine.
Man saved me a few bucks, bought a couple tools and with little to no experience I fixed it. Great video & thank you!
What a great video. It's apparent how much thought and effort went into editing, too. Thank you for this!
Saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you so much!! Learning to work on cars myself this was a lifesaver
Glad the videos helpful. Thank you for watching!
Brian
Thank you for the exact fast perfect to the tee video. My wife’s alternator went out last night and so today I am going to take out the bad alternator and have my local ignition shop rebuild it fresh so that I keep the original Honda part/casing. Going to go purchase a nice Serpentine Belt Tool kit as that is always a good investment. Of course replace the serpentine belt as well. I also became member to ALLDATA for my my wife’s CR-V and my Toyota Highlander, wonderful portal for all the DIY info you’ll need for car repair. Thank you very much Brian!!
Great video, right to the point, no endless rambling like other people’s videos!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
No B.S straight to the point. Damn good job.
Thanks for the great video. The belt and bolt diagrams was a big help. I'm pretty good working on my own cars once I have an idea of what to do. People like you save me tons of time trying to figure out the best route to do a part change.
Thank you very much for your video it's 4:30 a.m. in the morning and I just got done on this car favor for my sister-in-law once again thank you!
Clear instructions. To the point. Great camera work. 10/10
Thank you for sharing the well-detailed information! Saved me a lot of head-scratching, and made the alternator replacement go quite smoothly.
Used this to make a how to list on replacing alternator and belt, haven't used it yet, but I hope my dad and I get it right, thank you for having the specific video I need, we need both belt and alternator, this was super helpful.
Excellent video! Straight and to the point with good angles and lighting. Saved me couple hundred dollars by doing it myself. I'll be grabbing some of your merch!
Thanks for the video bud, I work at a Chevy dealer and have never dealt with many Honda’s, this saved me a lot of time, and made me good money as well 🤙🏻
My buddy and I followed this video and did the job in 2.5 hours. Thank you for posting!
Glad you guys got it done. Thank you for watching!
I'm the buddy. It looked daunting at first. But you're video really helped a lot. Thanks and keep up the great work.
This helped me a lot, I did my GF's 08 CRV. A couple of things, I came across. I tried to reuse my belt, and I accidentally got it caught behind my new alternator and there's no way I was taking it off again, so be mindful of that. I was able to barely get the passenger side bolt cracked with a 18" breaker bar and a short 12mm, then I took a 1" extension with the bar and 12mm to break the driver side bolt free, there is an AC line in the way of that one... Then I went back up and was able to take the two bottom bolts off by hand, standing facing away from the car... Remember to leave the top bolt in place so you can easily remove the bottom bolts. Other than that, the only advice I would like to give, is make sure you have a SHORT 16 point mm socket for the belt pulley, I rented one from Advanced Auto, and it was a 5 point, and no matter which way I oriented it, there wasn't enough room to pull on the pulley.
Bro this has got to be the best video on this perfect explanation and everything. Great job💯
You are the champ of quick and complete youtube tips. Thank you.
Thank you!
Muchas gracias por tu profesional ayuda,esta mañana se lo cambiamos al CRV de mi esposa,nos tomó around 4 hours pero logramos hacerlo y ya quedó bien,gracias nuevamente por tu asistencia profesional
Thank you for this video......you've helped another "diy" guy, saved me time and money! I totally appreciate it!
Great video. Just did this on a friend’s CRV. I didn’t remove the tire. Just turned the wheel all the way right. I also removed the cooling fan so I could see the two lower bolts on the alternator and actually get a socket wrench on them. Clockwise to get tension off the belt. I used the old box end slipped over the open end wrench trick to extend the wrench and pull on the tensioner. Great video though. I’m no expert. Helped a ton.
Thanks. The pace of the video is beautiful. I felt like a midwife getting the alternator to pass through on the way out. FYI, if you use a piece of clothesline rope as a handle (or heavy gauge wire, etc) through one of the bolt holes it makes it so much easier. After playing with it with my big hands in the way, and not getting it out, I used the rope for a handle and pulled it in seconds because I could see all the obstructions better.
just removed the the alternator from my 96 suburban. Man was it easy. Thanks for the detailed video!
Glad to help. Thank you for watching!
Thanks Dude! Helped a LOT! Got the alternator in without much trouble but sadly though I didn't have the proper wrenches and striped the nut on the tensioner... Had to order a new one and ordered a long wrench like you used. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
Helped me out quite a bit, although my alternator got stuck for about an hour trying to pull it out after bolt removal.
Pro tip. I had to learn hard. Take out the passenger side headlight it will make for much easier accessibility.
6 years later and I found this video. Thank you so much!! I'm stuck at a part in your video and I'm not sure how to proceed. I'm sure it's an easy hurdle but I'm not jumping it lol
This was the best video on RUclips for my car. Thank you!!!
@@danielebolton9702 thank you!
@@HowtoAutomotive can I ask you something?
@@HowtoAutomotive my Honda CRV 2010 I replaced the alternator and the battery and this was a month ago. I replace another battery do to it not holding a charge and the battery light dose not go off and when I took it to get a diagnosis they said nothing was wrong with it that the cable wires need to be tightened up and to drive it around so it will catch a charge. I did that and the car dyed so now I am charging my battery up. Do you think I need a new alternator?
I do appreciate you video with all the helpful information - alas, us mere mortals don't have all the cool specialty tools you used for this repair... after hours of attempting it this way, I gave up and took out the radiator/fan assembly and front crossbar - only then did I have enough access to get this cursed thing out with regular shallow and deep well sockets. I still had to buy specialty tools for the tensioner and crossbar and other bolts - I bought a set of 12pt swiverl headed wratcheting wrenches (which stripped off one of the alternator bolt heads), thus necessitating pulling the radiator... if you do this all day long, my hat's off to you. I have done hundreds of repairs as a shade-tree mechanic and this is the second worst I think... but memory fades. Thanks again for your immense help!
Thanks for the video, helped a lot. A couple place I had issues to assist others on my 07 CRV. The bottom bolt holding the alt closet to the center of the engine had an AC pipe making it difficult to get a socket/ratchet on. I gave the pipe a little nudge which gave me just enough room to break the torque from below. Also, I could not get the alt out despite numerous attempts due to clearance. I need a 2nd person to pull forward on the tensioner bolt which in-turn pushed it back to the firewall and gave me enough room to remove the alt. Will need to do the same to install the new one. Had to get the steering pump right out of the way to get at the tensioner again. Cheers!
Hey would you happen to know what this problem is in my Honda?? I’ll be driving normally then when I press the break and turn to the right and press the gas it doesn’t want to go like the gas peddle isn’t registering to the car to go almost like the car is shutting off but everything’s still on and normal just no gas. It’s only when I turn-press the break-then gas peddle and it slows down eventually when I press the gas peddle harder it will pick up and go. 😭
@@frenchtoast4630 I haven't had that issue. The gas peddle is electronic (no cable), so could be an issue there or the throttle body needs calibration (can be done thru OBD2 connector under dash). If it only happens when turning, could be something with fuel pump. Does it happen only near empty or not matter?
@@Looneeclip I had half a tank so I don’t think it has to do with that, you might be right on the fuel pump tho. Is it real hard to repair that I’m trying to figure it out 😣
@@frenchtoast4630 *brake
I am a 25 year mechanic and this vid was very well done
Thank you!!
Great video! It helped me out a lot but I didn't have to take the tire off or any of the dust covers. A couple of good flexhead ratchets help greatly. I did almost everything with quarter-inch Drive.
Glad it all worked out! Thank you for watching!
Thanks for including the radio code info. Great vid.
I just did this on an FRV. It has far less space than this but all the fixings are almost identical. I had to remove the rad and engine mounting bolts to push the engine back an inch!!! Absolutely Horrid job on an FRV but this vid gave me a good head start.
Thanks for this video just replaced my dads alternator on his crv. Appreciate this 👍
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Man I’m trying to find a good channel like this one that has worked on eclipse gt
Just replaced mine today thanks to this tutorial. Thanks for posting.
PLEASE EVERYONE GET THE 7PK1755, GOES RIGHT ON AFTER 8 HOURS OF STRUGGLE WITH THE 1745. Mileage improved by 20% after change! Excellent helpful video!!
Wow. One of the best auto repair how to videos out there. Thanks.
Dave Longmore thank you and thank you for watching!
Thank you so much. Excellent instructions.
If you have power tools, this job is made 10x easier by jacking up the engine slightly and removing that motor mount blocking the tensioner. Provides plenty space. Just keep track of the bolts well, that motor mount is certainly a contraption. Might be a good time to replace it and the Tensioner as well
Very well best video I've ever watched. Thank you and could hear and understand well.
You don't loosen the tensioner pully bolt just push down like your tightening it and hold it while you remove the belt. It even shows that in the printed diagram he has look what way the arrow points.
Edx
I had the same complaint. Clearly not counterclockwise
Appreciate your help and well-detailed, yet, short video.👏🏽👏🏽✝️
great video, why the voltage so low ? why not 14.2?
Nice use of the MT 2400 Vantage!! Great video
Thank you!
Great video, I just did this job yesterday (01/14/25) and have a few observations: 1) I have no idea how you got the two bolts located at the bottom of the alternator out. I have an AC hard line that runs right by one of the bolts and after messing around with it I found it was just easier to drop the four bolts on the AC compressor which moved it and the hard line out of the way. Note: the compressor has notches at the top of the case that fit into notches on the block. It is possible to bolt it back in incorrectly! Make sure the top notches are in the proper location. 2) Once you have the PS pump and alternator out (or out of the way) now is the time to replace the tensioner and water pump if they are needed. The CRV I was working on (2007, 140K) had all original accessories, and everything was due for replacement. The tensioner bearing sounded horrible and upon pulling the old water pump I noted residue was starting to form in the weep hole. If you are going this far you might as well get the other items replaced.
Thanks for making this video. I need to do this job on my 2007 CRV and replace the belt tensioner too. Is
there any significant advantage in also removing the passenger side motor mount to gain better access ? I will either get the alternator rebuilt locally or buy a Denso reman from RA.
I removed the motor mount. My life became much easier.
Thanks for this.
Needs WAY MORE LIKES .
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Very well made video, very helpful. Thank You.
Thanks for this video!! We just did this step by step. Hands were a bit to big,so a few bruised knuckles and cuts.
Very professional ! All understand!
This guy makes it look so easy with power tools let him try doing it with hand tools and see what he gets it'll take him a long time unless it's a brand new car. So take what you want from that so far it's taking me 4 hours to try to get the alternator out of the the car I have removed all the plastic molding the tire and everything it is still not easy to access the nuts and it is not easy to get the damn thing out
It is tough to get it out of there it’s in their tight. But I definitely use power tools to speed it up.
Can you say exactly what ratchet and what extension you are using to get the first bolt of the power steering pump out (around 3:07). It seems my current ratchet is barely to wide to be used in that tight space. It bumps up against the structure right next to it.
@@themissionary58 it was just a standard 3H ratchet with a 1 inch extension and a medium l death socket
@@HowtoAutomotive a medium I death socket?
@@HowtoAutomotive when you say 3H ratchet, did you mean 3/8 ratchet? I googled "3H ratchet" and couldn't find anything, so I'm assuming this is just a text-to-speech typo
Very thorough and detailed! You nailed it . Subscribed
Q2
Great video, it was very helpful!!
just saved me a few hundred dollars!! you da man!!
Always happy to hear that. Thank you for washing!
Thank you for the video. How much time do you think it will take to complete the replacement?
About 2 to 3 hours
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Now I'm going to bring it into the shop to have them do it for me.
This video is amazing thank you so much !!
Thanks so much for doing this video.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Great video. Good stuff brother
GREAT EXPLANATION LOOK VERY EASY BUT YOU ARE EXPERT. THANKS
Juan Rios I have done a few. Thank you for watching!
Thanks. Nice video. It's easier on the hands if you pull the 4 bolts off the A/C compressor & slide it out of the way.
wildmanbeck I will have to give it a try next time thanks for the tip and for watching!
Wow an awesome and A successful job done I did run into a few snags like getting the tensioner pulled and I accidentally snapped a wheel stud off but hey I’m learning thank you for the awesome video
Sucks you broke the stub but I’m glad you got it. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for making this video.
Do you have a video for 2014 Honda crv
Thanks for the advice 😊 sending support
Thank you for watching!
Very helpful thanks!
Awesome instructional video very easy to follow. Many thanks!
There are several Gen 3 alternator replacement videos on youtube. They all don't show in real time the removal of the two lower bottom bolts on the alternator. Why? Because they are a b-iatch to remove. I'm not a mechanic or an expert but I've done three of these using different strategies. IMHO If I was to do another I would just remove the front bulkhead and A/C Condenser fan to get easier access to the two lower bolts. The 10-15 mins extra minutes to do this is worth it to not have to deal with the blind and very very tight access lower bolt removal. Only thing to worry about are the fan bolts which on Northern vehicles can be rusted out and could break the plastic fan shroud on removal. Still even if you don't remove the fan the increased radiator/fan flex you get with the bulkhead removed is worth it. Just my $0.02.
Is there enough space to use a breaker bar instead of the serpentine belt tool?
Well done video. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Take the passenger side headlight out which includes that side of the front bumper it saves you so much time and makes everything 10x easier to get to
Great video! Thanks for sharing! 🙌🏻
Thank you for watching
Awesomeness, very well done.
Excellent video. Thank you.
I will add that when extracting the old alternator, I positioned it with the pulley straight up, and the top of the unit (single bolt hole) facing to the right. In this position, I was able to pull it out without actuating the tensioner to provide additional clearance.
Thank you Brian!
Awesome video TY!!
Thank you for watching!
What were all the tools used for this replacement?
How are you supposed to remove the clip that holds in the hose at 2:40 ? I don't know what I'm supposed to see happen. can someone make a video?