Thanks so much!!! I’m only mildly mechanically inclined, but I was able to do all four in less than 30 minutes because of your video. Completely fixed my misfiring issue. Since it’s 11 years old, I decided to first try the generic $30 for all 4 coils off eBay. Replaced all since they’ll eventually be an issue anyway. Completely worked. Even if they don’t last as long as name brand, I probably won’t have the car anymore by the time there’s an issue. Thanks again for such an awesome video!
Thank you for this video I ended up fixing my car. For anybody who wants to know if you buy a card code scanner you'll be able to tell which one of the coils are bad because it will tell you which ones are misfiring. It'll take the guesswork out reduce the time that it takes to do it.
glad you were able to fix up your car. Yes the car is smart that way to be able to tell the computer (in most cases) that there is a misfire happening.
Straightforward, common sense approach. Good, instructional video and anyone with good mechanical aptitude and basic hand tool experience can facilitate this repair by following this gentleman's advice. One nit-pick: volume was a bit low, but that is probably my laptop. Thank you for a good, solid basic repair video. Regards, Ambroid
glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching. I have invested in a new lapel mic so I am hoping that the audio in future videos will be dramatically improved.
I'm having the same problem as well with my '08 Honda Fit, but some people are also suggesting a valve adjustment. I'm not sure if I need new coil packs and spark plugs or if it needs a valve adjustment, or both!
@@jcolt84 I had to let my 2008 honda fit warm up for 2 minutes every time I first started it for the day, because if I didn't and through it in gear it would die. The valves were too tight. I adjusted the valves and it fixed the problem.
@@MyLifeThai371 you just solved my problem, because that's precisely the problem I have. Mine has a hell of a hard time accelerating to 55mph every night that I get on the highway to come home from work.
VERY methodical... If you were to remove only the wire from each ignition coil one at a time while the motor is running, you will be able to find out which coil is not working. When you remove the wire from a working coil/ cylinder that coil will stop working and that cylinder will miss. You will hear and or feel a noticeable difference in the motor and that will tell you the coil you removed the wire from, was working. When you remove the wire from the broken coil, there will be no difference in the motor's sound or operation. When you have found the coil that isn't working, replace it with the new coil.. This way you only need to remove the bad coil and replace with a new one, not change out every coil to test. Still a very good video.
Only issue is you better work real fast to accomplish what you’re suggesting. The engine block is gonna get hot while you try to get on the backside to unscrew and remove coils. Easy for #1, but 2-4 I was leaning on the engine to look behind that metal piece that is right over the top of the engine blocking my view. Just my $.02.
This is very cool video. 2009 Honda Fit Sport has a misfire. Already replaced plugs but still misfiring so off I go to buy a ignition coil to test it. Thanks so much for a making Honda Fit video!
Update after watching your video and reading comments. I decided to start with the fourth pack since that was your problem one and another viewers bad part. I was right, swapped the fourth one and fixed it first try. Thanks again.
Great video...every time you said "known good coil pack" I kinda chuckled to myself, having pulled my hair out in the past trying to troubleshoot a problem and the new part was bad also. :-)
I had these symptoms and replaced the four front coils. No difference, but before I got around to replacing the rear coils the misfire suddenly worsened and the car lost all power while on a motorway. The patrolman showed me his diagnostic display and the fault surprised even him...the crankshaft sensor was faulty. A simple replacement and the 18 year old car was running beautifully, not the slightest hint of a misfire.
ah yes a faulty cam or crank sensor can cause this issues indeed. Normally when they start to go that the misfires tend to be quite bad and a CEL will be thrown for a bad sensor. Hit and miss I guess as there are so many "degrees" of failure. Just glad to hear that you got your issue resolved.
great video, thanks. you know that rattle the engine makes outside the ticking, what is that sound sir? is it normal, do you still have this car, does that rattle get worse?
Rattles can be many things. Mostly exhaust heat shields that have become partially detached from their original spot welds or bolt locations. Honda heat shield rattles are remarkably common so I'd check those areas to see which one "rattles or buzzes" when the RPMs change.
Great video! I just got a nice 2008 Fit and love it BUT (!), it has this exact idling problem and I don't like it one bit! Can you please suggest a good aftermarket replacement coil that's not a small fortune? Thanks in advance!
It depends on your region of where you get your parts from. Here in Canada the aftermarket coils vs the Honda sourced ones aren't that much different in price. I believe the factory Honda ones are supplied by Hitachi but any aftermarket part that has a decent warranty on it will do as well.
I have an '08 Fit that requires a warmup before it can drive. If we don't warm it up, and put it into gear (reverse or drive), it will stall and kill the engine. It also sometimes has a fast paced clicking sound while it idle at times, I'm thinking its more in need of a valve adjustment, but do that issues sound like a misfire? 80,000 miles on the car
You may want to check for a faulty IAC valve. Sometimes when the IAC valve experiences failure that the car will have difficulty holding the proper idle spec especially when it is cold out. Clicking at idle especially when cold is expected b/c of the valve lashes being larger when the engine is cold. If it warms up and it is reasonably quiet then things should be normal. You could get the valves adjusted as it is considered preventative maintenance but it isn't typical for your low miles. Get the IAC valve check out first and see how you fare first.
I had the same problem on my 2008 Honda Fit. I had to let the engine warm up for 2 minutes in the morning during the summer, before I threw it in gear or the engine would die. It turned some of the valves had absolutely no backlash. I did a valve adjustment and it works great now!
Great video to assist all of us Honda Fit owners. I had the hesitation, watched your video. I took the simple route and replaced all 4 and the problem was solved. I guess for me this was easier than trying to figure out which one was faulty. On Ebay the coil packs are not overly expensive. You video explained the problem, showed the solution and explained the repair so that I could do this easily. Thanks for making this quick and easy.
piercedasian At the same time I replaced the coil packs I also replaced the spark plugs since they are right there and would be due for replacement not terribly far down the road anyway. I felt that this way that part of the Ignition system would be all new and shouldn't need anything for quite some time. The Fit runs real well now and I believe my fuel consumption has improved also.
yeah replacing plugs will absolutely help b/c the ignition system doesn't need to work as "hard" to produce a spark b/c new plugs typically are gapped properly from the factory and are within the manufacturer's spec. I've seen badly worn plugs ruin coil packs b/c of the ever increasing effort needed to produce a spark. Definitely good common sense on your part. Having new plugs with new coils should make the car feel like new again :)
2008 fit i have same problem , and what i did was closed the hood and spray lot of water and find out that water filter through the rubber and wets coils and spark plugs and damaged so i will replace this hood rubber or wheather rubber . I think That's what my problem was all this time
Excellent video. I could hear at warm idle that your engine had a bit of a knock/ clacking noise. I have the same motor and same noise. Did you ever figure out what that noise was?
Excellent video, and diagnosis of problem, only concern would be if you have a bad spark plug, it would exhibit be the same type of misfire, suggest checking them first ( cheaper than a coil) , then the coils. If over 7 years old OR over 105,000 miles.
Valid point indeed. Spark plugs at least from my experience rarely fail (by rare I mean never) in the 1000's of cars I've worked on. This is not to say it isn't possible. It absolutely is and given how inexpensive plugs are that it is almost good practice to just change out the 4 plugs first to see if that resolve the misfiring issue and if it doesn't then move onto the more costly coils.
My 2008 Fit has a different set of symptoms. It idles smooth as silk. The misfire happens if I press the pedal down at low RPM. It began one day after previous days and months were perfect. Since it has 190,000 miles on it, I'm changing the coils and plugs. By the way, prices range from $40 to 277 for a set of 4 coils!!!! What could be the difference, gold wiring?
hmm, your symptoms still could be linked to faulty coils. This car in question idled so smoothly despite its misfire that it was initially hard to catch. It wasn't until I drove it under load and sudden loads (hard acceleration) did the coil failures really rear its ugly head. That being said, if you replace all plugs and put in a new set of coils that chances are you'll resolve a lot of your engine woes. The coil pack prices range significantly in price for several reasons - quality (made in Japan, USA or China), brand name (well known brands vs. some random non-name brand), and whether it comes wrapped in Honda packaging. Honda packages ones have to meet a certain specification that Honda defines and should assure the consumer that the fit and finish and performance qualities meet that standard. This is not to say that parts you buy outside of the Honda parts department is bad - lots of great quality parts there too but your mileage may vary. I bought this replacement coil pack from Honda for LESS money than a good quality aftermarket part so naturally I went with the Honda part.
Very useful video.. thank you! Could it happen that more than one cylinder or ignition coil are bad and need to be fixed or it happens only with one coil at once?
yes absolutely. Multiple failures can happen especially to part that is from the same manufacturing batch and operated under the same conditions. Anything goes as far as failures are concerned. Some coils could be on the verge of failing while others have plenty of life left in them. It's hit and miss but not unheard of.
Nice video. I think it needs to be pointed out that there are two banks of cylinders - front and rear - which use different coils so if you're using this method of troubleshooting you will need to buy a front and a rear coil. Either that or take a gamble on just buying one or the other and being prepared to have to order the other one if it doesn't fix it first time.
Julian, to clarify I believe you meant to say that there are two banks of opposed firing plugs and not cylinder. Dual cylinder banks would suggest this engine is V 4 config which it is definitely not. In North America at least the Fit only comes with a single row of ignition coils (4 in total). I believe you are in Europe? I've heard from some of my viewers that they have 2 spark plugs per cylinder (that's way cool) and hence why there is a front bank of coil packs and a rear bank..
Thank you. I’ve been having same problem and went to get is fixed and my quote came up to 870NZD 🤦🏾♂️ but now, it’s looks like it’ll only cost me the coil pack and my time haha thank you again
Thanks for the video. So informative! My car broke down in the middle of motorway today because of the broken ignition coils. I want to repair myself but have trouble with purchasing the items. Are the ignition coils of Jazz same with Fit? My car is Honda Fit 2005
I can see the part number (30520 PWC S01) at 6:58 but can't see what brand it is. When I look at RockAuto's selection, several brands have that same part number but not the HItachi IGC0053, which is denoted as the "Actual OE part." Curious which brand you used? Also curious why you didn't replace all 4?
The part is actually straight from Honda. No need to replace all 4 if they other 3 are working fine. So far the car has clocked over 10, 000kms with zero issues on the other coils.
Glad you hear it fixed your issue. The Fit seems to be plagued with faulty coil packs. Of the 100's of Honda's I've worked on the Fit seems to have this recurring issue.
I got no check engine light but my code is still reading a misfire in cylinder 4 I replaced all the ignition coils spark plugs and wires but I still have the code in the car only runs rough the first 5 minutes of being started then run smooth the rest of the day
yeah, I hate fixing cars in the winter. I was going to invest in a garage heater this year but chintz out because I know I'm still sorta tough and can weather out the cold if I really needed to.
Hello, It won't bring any problem to change only one? I have the 1.2 with 8 spark plugs and 8 coils. In thi case I should change the pair of coils of the affected cylinder or just one? Thanks! great video
Yikes 8 plugs for a little 4 cylinder car? Here in North America we do not have such engine configurations. In your particular case it IS okay to change just one coil since it operates independently of the other coils anyways.
You described my issue exactly however, mine has triggered the check engine light but your issue did not. This makes me assume it must not be the same problem.
I just replaced plugs I had the same problem but not all the time. I have 200,000 km on my 2008 fit. I removed the last plug by hand didn't have to use the ratchet. The coil had soot running up the center post and the plug had soot along one side of threads. I hope thats it but I'll keep an eye on this if it persists. Thanks for the video.
wow glad you got your car woes resolved! Yes when a plug isn't torqued down properly it can migrate its way out of the spark plug threads and cause some serious damage if neglected.
hmm, no I can't say that I have. Is your engine running properly? Does it rev up quickly in neutral? If it does but you're losing power while in drive then you may have a blocked catalytic converter that is hindering your engine's power output.
For my Fit, idle is smooth. Pressing the gas pedal medium to hard at low RPM causes shuddering. After a couple of days, got check engine light. Mechanic said he can read the check engine code. Next day he says "Could be spark plugs, could be coils. $550" How come the computer code isn't specific? I explained I am on fixed SS income, asked can you just do the plugs and see how it runs? All communication is by voicemail. He will not agree to do just the plugs for now. Am I being fleeced?
I would ask him to provide the specifics on the engine code. In some circumstances the CEL code occasionally doesn't tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It could be simply a generic P0300 code. I'd get your mechanic to justify his thinking on why he won't do just the plugs and if he can't provide a reasonable answer then I'd say find another mechanic. I will say this however, that if your car has relatively low miles or the plugs are fairly new (less than 100, 000 miles on them) then chances are that they're not the plugs going bad.
Wondering if the cold has any impact on this symptom, as mine only started once winter started to set in, originally only noticeable when the car was stone cold. I have a set on order and am looking forward to getting mine swapped, especially if it means I can hold off on a valve adjustment for a while longer. Thanks!
Outside temps can have an impact on how the coils perform but generally speaking it is the heat that kills them more than the cold. The cold will impact the voltages needed to fire up a cold engine. Cold engines and richer fuel mixtures due to the cold require a stronger spark to ignite and if your coils are on the cusp of failing that it may lack the required "pop" needed to fire a spark plug to its maximum voltage. This results in inconsistent burn or colloquially - a misfire. Hopefully a spark plug replacement and coil swap will resolve your issues. Good luck.
I have a 2005 Honda Airwave (Same engine as yours i believe)with Hitachi cm11-110 ignition coils(Notice online they say that these coils are only for 07-08 models). Do you have a recommendation on where to pick up some replacement coils online for a decent price?
that will really depend on where you live in the world. Any auto parts store will be able to locate one for you at a reasonable cost and as far as quality is concerned that I can't say I have come across some really junk quality parts (probably ebay?) so you should be okay just buying them locally. If you're in the USA then Rock Auto is a solid place to buy your parts from.
Don’t know if it’s been covered before. But what if you have two bad coils. How do you go about identifying the bad ones because switching one out at a time may not help effectively identifying the bad ones?
Two bad coils will unfortunately be more difficult to troubleshoot. Depending on your mileage and if you suspect you have multiple coil failures that chances are they should all be replaced as a complete set to spare yourself the aggravation and time trying to figure out which coil is faulty.
I assume the coils are bad from experience of working on so many Honda's. The Honda Fit comes from Honda with NGK Iridium plugs that can go WELL past 200, 000kms and still be in like new condition. This specific car I was working on already had new plugs put in by Honda so by default I knew it likely wasn't the plugs but a bad coil which were notorious on the Fit for failing prematurely.
It seems to be the most prevalent on the first gen Honda fits although I have seen all models of cars from other car makers have similar issues. The first gen fit just seems worse than average. Thankfully it's easy and relatively inexpensive to fix.
I understand you can track down misfires by selectively deactivating cylinders (sometimes called a power balance test). Is that something you can easily do on Honda engines of this era, e.g. using OBD commands?
no that is not something that can be done via an OBD II scan tool. The OBDII scan tool is in many cases smart enough to tell the tech which cylinder is misfiring and usually all that is done is a spark plug inspection and coil replacement and that is often enough to fix the issue.
I sometimes do and sometimes don't depending on the car I'm working on. For Honda's and Toyotas I generally DO NOT use it. If you opt to use some use a tiny tiny dab of it on the tip of the spark plug but don't make the mistake I've seen some folks do by smearing a ton of it on. Even from the factory they don't use dielectric grease.
Engine check light. Getting these two codes as error P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected P0351 ignition coil a primary secondary circuit Will changing coil solve the issue?
In most cases it will. May want to pull the spark plug too to see if its badly worn. I actually had one case where I thought the coil was not working right but it turned out the plugs were worn down to little nubs! Always check the condition of the plugs and if they're good then go ahead and replace the coil(s).
i get no lights, but my 2008 fit juts had a tune upo but only gets 14 MPG city in LA...,, had all plugs changed.. ignition starter cleaned...help? car egine seems good. sounds good. no idle issue pleanty of power.just bad milegae.. cars is new.. used buy from 3 weeks ago.
2:39 that piece should pull off or apart . If it is burned it will probably break apart . And you can actually see the small spring that is overheating and arcing
I'm having the exact same problem with my 08 Honda Fit, except my check engine light isn't on. Some people are suggesting that I get a valve adjustment done, and some people are suggesting I change the spark plugs and coil packs. Which is true, or do both need to be performed?
Ah yes... the infamous misfire. I'd suggest that you carefully inspect the plugs. If they're looking clean and healthy that I'd probably recommend that you change the coil packs since they're notorious for prematurely failing on the fit. If that still doesn't resolve your issue then at that point I'd do a valve adjustment b/c that CAN cause issues but that is often the last resort. Does the misfire happen in the entire RPM range or does it only do it in idle like this car did?
@@piercedasian The car usually only hesitates when idling/stopped. As if the engine is still cold. Without a check engine light on, it's difficult to pinpoint what the problem is.
hmm, I'd definitely say its probably worn plugs and a bad coil b/c when the car is cold it runs rich and will likely "miss" or "stumble" when the air fuel ratio is richer than normal. Valve related problems often manifest themselves when the engine is hot b/c the valve lash tightens up when the engine is warmed up which is when the misfires typically happen. Not sure if you're overly keen on replacing all 4 plugs AND coils but that is an option you could look into.
Hello my friend my car only misfires only while driving. Last year I changed all 8 coils(the black thing you're changing)but still misfiring so I cleaned egr and throttle body but still misfires what solutions you suggest because mechanic s didn't know what's wrong
that is a sign of your intake and exhaust valve lash clearances are out of whack. Definitely pop that valve cover off and make sure you take the time to adjust and TRIPLE check your valve lash adjustments. When the lash clearances get too tight it will cause a misfire condition because the valves aren't sealing properly - typically the exhaust valves. If this condition is not properly resolved that over time you WILL burn the exhaust valves and will need to get the valves replaced (insanely expensive).
It sounds neglected but I can assure you the owner takes very good care of it (they did after all bring it to me to fix). Faulty coil packs on the fit are extremely common.
replaced all four coil packs a year ago, and the car reacted well-shuttering, and strange idling went away, and MPG increased dramatically. But recently shuttering has started again-particularly when running the A/C, and now it won't start in the cold. Is it possible for the coil packs to fail so quickly after replacing? Also, Honda dealership is ignorant when it comes to coil packs-I had been taking it in for service for years-even had to replace the cad. convertor. When I found out about the coil pack issue, and told them about it, honda service denies that this could be an issue. Is there a possibility that something else is causing these symptoms, or something else is causing the degradation of the coil pack?
no not likely. Coil packs in the fit were notoriously bad and as a result of misfiring cylinders is what ultimately leads to pre-mature cat converter death. I would say that your coil packs could very well be no good (you could've had a bad batch) and need to replace again. It's RARE that it would happen that way but I have seen it a few times in my career. Consider replacing plugs if they even remotely look worn.
No need for Honda ones. You can definitely use aftermarket coils but the quality of them can't be verified. I trust Honda parts b/c they've had to meet a spec before they're allowed to have the Honda name on them. Cheap aftermarket coils can be junk especially the super cheap Chinese junk you can buy.
Our Honda Jazz (eu fit) skips and shakes as I accelerate. No rough running at idle. I changed all spark plugs but not the coils. Shall I swap all eight of them? Or swap the distributor?
I'm not overly familiar with the european version of the Jazz. In North America our Fits have 4 coils and 4 plugs and uses a distributorless ignition system. Are you sure your car has a distributor? I suspect that you have faulty coil packs that require replacing (common failure point on the fit/jazz).
I think this might be the problem I'm having as it does the same sputtering while stopped or when the ac is turned on, as well as full system shut down randomly. The only thing that you didnt list that is happening to me is a squealing sound when the car first starts or when the ac is also on. Would this symptom be related to this as well?
Squealing is likely due to a bad bearing or a loose belt. Since you have a fit I believe they use an auto belt tensioner which means you might have a bad pulley or idler bearing.
I have the same issue..bad shaking idle and when ac on but run well at 3000rpm and up jazz vtec 2007...before i buy and replace the coil , could it caused of dirty combustion chamber? I've looked with my hose camera and the up side of piston very dirty
It is possible but a dirty combustion chamber could be a result of poor firing of the plug. While I can't say the putting a new coil in the engine will fix your problem that a dirty cylinder COULD be a sign of it not doing a complete burn. Only way to find out is try swapping coils from a known clean cylinder and see if it "cleans up". If it does then you know the coil is weak.
@@piercedasian thanks for fast response..i think it's a good idea to do what you suggested.. i've observed, dissambled and clean the coil and the coil seems not in good shape anymore..i got nothing to loose if i just buy and replace all 4 coil..thank you sir
Would this be the same for random cylinder misfire? My reader pulls a misfire detection from cyl 2-4 but not 1 as well as the random cylinder code as well. Was wondering if it's compression or fuel rather than injection. Any thoughts?
Hmm every time I’ve seen this issue it is usually because of worn plugs and faulty coils. Replace your plugs with a fresh set of quality NGK plugs (only use NGK) and then reset check engine light. Drive around and see if it throws the same codes. If they do the chances are that your coils are also bad. They are a known problem spot on the fit so repacking all 4 isn’t unusual. I just did a Fit yesterday with the same problem and after all new parts were put in that it runs like a champ again.
My dear brother, I have a Honda Honda Jazz automatic in 2004 where the automatic transmission, the car sirens and the appearance of the D sign are separated, can you help me solve the problem?
Hello, I have a 2007 Honda Fit. I got the coils replaced twice within the last fours years of having the car. The second time I replaced the coils I got the catalytic converter replaced also as the mechanic said this was a problem as well. Each time I also got the spark plugs replaced. This was possibly 8 months ago. Today the check engine light is on. Blinks when the car gets over 2000 rpm and continues to blink until it returns under 2000 rpm or so. Stutters when idiling. Car dies when the a/c is on and idling. The car must be driving in order for the car not to die while the a/c is on. Can you please suggest what else this could be? Clogged vacuum lines?
nope, sounds like faulty plugs or failed coils again. Are you buying Honda coils or aftermarket? If they're aftermarket I suggest you buy Honda ones because of consistent quality (for the most part). Make sure the plug you use are the NGK ones spec'ed for your car's year and engine.
The replacement coil I'm using is from Honda which I believe is made by Hitachi. You can easily get some aftermarket ones (permitted they're good quality ones) and it will all work the same.
My daughter's 2007 Honda Fit stalls when she is stopped. It is infrequent, but it is scary when it happens as the car rolls forward. Could the ignition coils misfiring be the cause?
the bracket if I remember correctly is held on by a single 10 or 12mm bolt. You can either manoeuvre the coil past it (it's a tight fit) or just loosen the bracket retaining bolt and give you a bit more clearance.
Thank you so much! Someone had rig some funky bracket on there that confused me. I was able to get my car running really smooth with only a $20 coil thanks to your expertise!
Yikes, I don' have the fit in front of me now and your question was posted a month ago but if I had to guess it would be right by the airbox on the snorkel.
i believe my 2001 astro van has the same problem, hopefully its not to tricky to do . A question i have though is, when im stopped at a light and put the van in neutral it seems to idle a lot smoother ,any ideas? thx
+david tanner in your astro it likely could be linked to a faulty ignition control module. VERY common GM problem. Does your Astro have individual coil packs on each cylinder or does it have a coil bank? If it is a coil bank then the board underneath the coil bank gets weak and then causes ignition misfires. Seen them a LOT on GMs
i think your right on it having a coil bank, i was watching your power steering fluid replacement video on the odessey , and saw the misfiring fit video and seemed like my astro was doing the same. i looked up and found a video on the astro van and a guy replaced, what was the coil bank like you stated, so i might go that route. sorry for the long reply. thanks for your insight and knowledge, keep up the vids!
let us know how your fix went. Word of advice is that when you do replace the ignition module that you consider buying a brand new part. Used pieces tend to have the same intermittent failure problems like yours does and it would be a hassle to put in another faulty used part when you could've fixed it properly with a new piece. Just a suggestion....
have you changed the spark plugs as well? I've seen some fit spark plugs that have never been serviced be so worn out that the engine started running weird.
Time is short, so when my 2008 Fit base model 5-speed was misfiring on the highway and stalling at intersections, a local garage changed the coil packs and spark plugs with Honda parts, and also cleaned the fuel injection. It ran like new for a month. When the symptoms returned, the same shop replaced the egr valve. The Fit ran well for a week, but now the symptoms have returned. Any ideas? Valve adjustment? Again, after 10 minutes of driving, it misfires and wants to stall at intersections.
hmm, you should get your crank sensor checked out as those as they fail start causing all sorts of drivability issues. They usually throw a check engine light but if they're getting weak but not necessarily intermittent that the car starts running like junk. Does it tend to get worse when its hot vs. cold? You should also do a check on the exhaust manifold around the o2 sensor. I had a car that had a really bad idle misfire and it turned out that the exhaust manifold was cracked on the underside and thus bleeding ambient air into the exhaust stream causing the car to think it was running lean and at that point it richened up the system and was dumping way too much fuel into the motor causing it to run poorly.
@@piercedasian Thanks for getting back to me. I took the 2008 Fit to a mechanic I've trusted for years and requested a valve adjustment. It seemed to me this was the next thing to try. He took it for a spin, called me back, and suggested the valves seemed OK. He recommended Sea Foam treatment in the gas tank and oil reservoir, because he suspected carbon deposits on my valves. The Fit is now running like a new car, with 275,000 miles, and my trusty mechanic saved me hundreds of dollars. How strange is that?
@@freitag314 Nice! This gives me hope. My 2008 Honda Fit is at 198,000 miles and runs like new now that I got the valves adjusted. They were too tight with no valve lash. It gets 36.5 mpg at 75 mph on interstate still.
@@MyLifeThai371 Good to hear from another Honda Fit enthusiast! My three daughters learned to drive in my Fit before I replaced the first clutch at 275k miles. It now has 312k miles and needs new control arms, which appears to be a DIY job.
@@freitag314 I replaced my own control arm on my 2005 Mustang. The bolts were very tight. I had to buy a 27mm flex head ratchet wrench and put a 10ft cheater pipe on it. Hopefully they are not that tight on the Honda Fits.
I have a Honda Jazz (not Fit here in Portugal) from 2004. I have engine codes P0300, P0302 and P0304. I guess I don't notice missfires as you do in your engine, but do you think it could be ignition coils? I already spent some good money on mechanics, and they couldn't fix my problem. Guess I'll have to figure it out myself. Just to let you know, I already had to replace the catalytic converter because the car was not passing in the emissions test. Also, replaced all 8 spark plugs. Thanks! :)
+José Melo you had to replace the cat converter b/c you likely were misfiring and dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust system which then resulted in the catalyst getting damaged which means it can't do it's job anymore. If you've got a misfire code like that I would suggest that you buy brand new set of spark plug coils either from Honda or from a 3rd party parts supplier. It just takes some misfires to do damage again to your new cat so it would be wise of you to get that fixed sooner than later.
Hi. Thanks for your answer. I already cleaned all 8 coils. They had some oxidation which I think was causing those problems. After cleaning them, the misfire continued. Despite de codes thrown by ECU (P0300, P0302), I really don't feel any difference in the engine behavior. Last week I was curious, and cleaned throttle body. Since then, I already drove 600Km and no check engine light. Still, I'm tempting to replace all ignition coils due to the oxidation I found on them. What do you think?
Jose you mention that you cleaned all 8 coils. Maybe I'm not understanding something here but the Honda Jazz/Fit only have 4 ignition coils and 4 spark plugs so I'm not sure where you're getting 8 coils. Can you elaborate to help me understand? Thanks,
Thanks for this video. It's very helpful for people who have wasted a lot of money in unsuccessful repairs and bad diagnoses. So the first generation of Fits has only 4 ignition coils? Is the engine sound at 5:41 normal? Were there any other problems with the engine at that time? Especially at 5:56 onwards it sounds really strange. This is how my Fit sounds too but I keep telling the mechanics at the service center to check the engine for problems as I don't like the sound of it. I also keep telling them that this was not how the engine sounded like when it was newer. Specifically I feel like when the engine was newer it sounded like a normal gasoline engine but after 60k miles it started to sound more and more like a diesel engine. So it this normal? And lastly, how much did the ignition coil cost?
How an engine sounds normal is a highly subjective opinion. The key thing is the firing of all cylinders is consistent at all RPMs. Any sputtering or "spitting" at the exhaust is a tell tale sign that some is amiss (literally). If it runs smooth, drives smooth and you're still finding it noisy then chances are that you may have an exhaust leak or you may need a valve adjustment to be done on your car to quiet the valve train down. Cost of coils @ Honda Canada is about $130 each. Aftermarket Eaton electric ones are about $90 each.
Hi, I have a 2007 fit which was experiencing the same symptoms jerking at 2000 to 3000 rpm. its been a few months, I changed the fuel filter in the tank, it wasn't solved, then when i got fed up of feeling that jerk I did a scan and got a crank position sensor code. I installed a new one but had the same jerking problem. My dealership checked plugs and found one burnt out plug at the back because my car carries 8 plugs and 8 coils. however they said that the ckp code was not going away and kept asking whether I had bought a genuine sensor. I had a genuine sensor put in. They then told me that it was a faulty reluctor wheel otherwise known as crank pulser plate and that it was the first time they had come across this . I really wondered why they would tell me that the pulser plate would have an issue as this is way down in the engine, and I don't even think that they actually went there. long story shortened, i got someone else to pull out the coils and to inspect them and two on the exhaust side were leaking. Imajine after all that it was leaking coils. As we didnt have new ones at the time we taped them up with electrical tape. Issue was solved. no jerking at any rpm. so now i am waiting for new coils that i ordered. if you have that issue, please check your coils and plugs. note i never got codes for misfire.
interesting issue you have there. When you say leaking coils are you referring to plugs that weren't torqued down correctly? I didn't quite understand what you meant by leaking and sealing it with electrical tape. Coils to my knowledge don't leak (unless you're referring to electrical leakage). Good tips nonetheless. I can't imagine a little tiny FIT engine with 8 spark plugs. Whereabouts are you located? In North America we just have 4 plugs and coils.
@@piercedasian yes that's exactly what I'm saying. Electrical leakage. What we saw to determine that something was wrong was this, white residue around the neck of the coil and also on the opening of the block where the plug and coils fit. Somthing like this. www.fitfreak.net/forums/attachments/1st-generation-gd-01-08/5614d1468279131-try-cleaning-spring-contacts-ignition-coils-fix-misfire-problem-80-p1170850_df3a43fe72b6020ee5017a9ead64599caa9f70b1.jpg So we taped it tightly to keep nothing from escaping. I'm located in the eastern Caribbean. Commonwealth of Dominica 🇩🇲, not to be confused with the Dominican Republic 🇩🇴. discoverdominica.com/en/home 🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲
The higher rpms while coasting in neutral is normal (usually around 1000-1200RPM on my car) but the bouncing is definitely not. If it is bouncing up and down that is indicative of an intake air leak. Has the manifold or throttle body ever been removed from the car? How are the vacuum lines?
@@piercedasianyes I had to remove the throttle body recently to clean the IAC valve. I've just noticed too that one of the screws on the air filter box is missing. I guess that or probably a bad seal on the throttle body might explain. Thanks
Hi, i have honda jazz 2008 automatic, my car sometimes jerks when accelerating and engine turns off, mechanic did a diagnostic and said its crank sensor, I changed the sensor but problem is still there, any suggestions, bought this car a few months ago so I don't know if the previous owner has changed spark plugs or not.
Given that plugs are cheap that I would start there first to make sure your "baseline" is good. Use ONLY NGK plugs in your Honda. Never use Bosch, E3 or whatever other brands out there. NGK all the way.
yeah, I've had hit and miss with some cars on valve adjustments. You're correct in that a valve adjustment shockingly can solve a lot of idle/drivability issues
Hi anyone sees this, can you please respond as soon as possible? I have a 2009 fit with about a 137000 miles. I think what you're describing here is what is happening to my vehicle and I plan on getting it fixed in a couple of weeks because I won't have the money until then. But i need to make a trip tomorrow morning for work--it's about 80 miles round trip in wondering if I will be OK? What are the chances of its stalling on me or breaking down when I'm on the highway? I have 2 options is far as a route to where am going. One is taking the interstate and the other is taking a county highway. The interstate makes me nervous because it is heavily trafficked which would be a good thing if I do stall theyll be more to help me but heavy traffic could also be a bad thing! But there is traffic on the county highway as well just not as heavy obviously. Any advice is welcome! Thanks in advance! Just a couple of FYI 's. When I get to my destination the car will be sitting for several hours so I won't be driving in coming right back but the total miles miles driven would be about 80 to 90. Also right now I am parked and idling and it seems to be fine. I only noticed it when I'm driving in after I've been driving for just a few miles. It's not constant but like every few minutes.
It depends on how bad the misfiring is. If your car is running and driving around town just fine that you MIGHT be able to squeak that trip in before fixing it but again it depends how bad the misfire is. The problem with misfires or a weak spark is that the component can fail without a moment's notice and leave you stranded. Is there a way you can borrow funds to fix it before your trip or perhaps take a bus or alternate means to get to work?
Hi, I have a misfire problem on my honda fit 07 and It started after 5 mins driving. The misfire will happen when I slow down on a stop sign or traffic light. I have replaced all the spark plug and I have tested all the coils are good. Can you please let me know what else I need to check? thanks
Do you have any check engine lines and are you sure the coils are in fact good? Coils interestingly will work fine at higher RPMS and then falter at idle speeds. I would make sure that you're using genuine NGK plugs (Honda uses NGK spark plugs) and then re-test the motor. If you're using NGK plugs then I'm still led to believe that the coils could be bad - I have seen LOTS of these coils go and yet the car is still very driveable until you get them to run at idle speeds.
Ives replaced all of my coils and plugs with oem and it still misfires while it’s starting in the cold (the weird thing that it runs normal when starting up again). Mines a 2009 so idk if valve adjustment counts
hmm interesting... I wonder if your crank position sensor is on the way out. I'd lead towards a possible requirement for a valve adjustment as this little 1.5 liter motor was known to act up when valve lash adjustments get out of whack (and they often do).
@@piercedasian update obd2 said it was cylinder 3 and 4, I think it only happens under 40 degrees and after I drive for like 2 minutes and stopping on a light, so the way to not get the engine light on is wait for the car to warm up for like 3-4 minutes so either valves need to be adjusted or injectors are failing/clogged, it still drives good though
I'd opt to vote for a valve adjustment as it is a common thing on the honda's (too tight from factory). Valve adjustments are routine maintenance items so doing it isn't going to harm it. It should be done anyways when the car hits 100, 000kms or more.
@@piercedasianafter thinking about it might as well do it Would you recommend doing it in a dealer or regular mechanic (i have one that’s 2 minutes away)
Hello, I have the same fit, and it's jerking with these symptoms. I would describe the jerking sensation similar to clutching in suddenly for a split second and clutching back out immediately again without letting go off the accelerator. The jerks can be anything from once or thrice or even multiple, but not lasting more than 5 seconds. It jerks in these scenarios: When turning out to join the main street (90 deg turns) When there's a slight incline, my fit will jerk at about 2000rpm on D mode. And again, on a slight incline, the fit will jerk at about 3000rpm on S mode. Fuel filter and spark plugs have been changed 2 years ago. Any idea what's wrong? Is it the coil pack or transmission?
I would first suggest that you determine WHAT is the cause of the problem. Does the car idle and rev up fine? Does it always happen only in the above scenarios? What about straight line driving? Does it have good and bad days?
coil packs are not the same as injectors but if I had to place my bets on what is really wrong chances are the coil packs are defective or on the verge of failing. Honda injectors are insanely reliable and I have yet to see a single one fail in a daily driver vehicle. Race applications are different but most folks don't race their Hondas at a track @ 8000RPMS all day long.
I have Honda fit model 2013 old shape. When I am driving knocking is feeling to me.after this I change the svo2 egr valve the knocking is finished but after two day the knocking is again produced.
Had this exact issue with my 2008 Honda Fit. It also started throwing codes for the cat but went away after changing the coils. Any reason it would do this?
b/c misfiring can screw up the cat badly from not properly burning the fuel. Proper running engine usually means everything else is now working in harmony.
So im on the side of the highway with help on the way. My 2008 fit has had a cat code for the last 25,000km and it has clearly needed a new coil since I have been experiencing these symptoms for the past 16 months. Luckily my landlord is coming to help me and has an OBII. Hopefully tomorrow when it’s light out we can replace the plugs and it’s all good. However today the problem must have gotten worse from being left unchecked for god knows how long. The engine light began flashing and it was doing a continuous misfire whenever in drive. Hopefully I didn’t do any severe damage before pulling over. We will replace the coils tomorrow and see how she goes. Thanks for the video it was very helpful.
My ignitions coils seem to get damaged and need replacement "too often", is there anything that might be causing this problem? i also have an honda fit 2007
I have heard some people tell me that as well but in North America we only have 4 plugs. If there are 8 then I can't say I've seen let alone worked on one. Interesting. What market is your Fit in? Asia? South America?
you could try that but the problem is that often times, a coil could be firing fine during idle too and when you pull the connector that it can cause the motor to run rough thus creating a false positive. Your approach is definitely logical but there is still some degree of "testing error" that can occur.
i would like to ask if there are any other way to test the coils with out change try and error way !! for example if i disconnect the wire only does show which coil is damaged?!
not unless you have a very expensive ignition system tester that costs a LOT of money. It is so easy to do that there isn't a reason why one couldn't do it the way as shown in the vid.
Disconnect one wire at a time. If you disconnect a good coil, the engine will start to stall. If you disconnect a bad coil, and the engine sounds the same with no difference, then that is the bad coil.
Rather than run the engine to listen for misfiring for each coil pack separately, go to any large auto parts shop and ask them to check for code of Check Engine light (FREE!). That will tell which cylinder is misfiring.
Lance in some cases the code will not tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It depends on certain conditions and whether the ECU catches the fault as it happens. I'm working on a Lexus right now that has misfiring issues and the ECU doesn't tell me which cylinder is misfiring.
Do you know what would cause a car to run fine at nuetral and idle, yet it stalls as soon as it is switched to Reverse or Drive. Also it is worst when the car is warm.
Thanks so much!!! I’m only mildly mechanically inclined, but I was able to do all four in less than 30 minutes because of your video. Completely fixed my misfiring issue. Since it’s 11 years old, I decided to first try the generic $30 for all 4 coils off eBay. Replaced all since they’ll eventually be an issue anyway. Completely worked. Even if they don’t last as long as name brand, I probably won’t have the car anymore by the time there’s an issue.
Thanks again for such an awesome video!
awesome news! Glad you were able to get it back up and running!
awesome job! $30 for 4 coils? wow that's super cheap. Here they're like $110 CAD EACH at Honda.
Thank you for this video I ended up fixing my car. For anybody who wants to know if you buy a card code scanner you'll be able to tell which one of the coils are bad because it will tell you which ones are misfiring. It'll take the guesswork out reduce the time that it takes to do it.
glad you were able to fix up your car. Yes the car is smart that way to be able to tell the computer (in most cases) that there is a misfire happening.
Easy fix, for some one like me. I have no car repair experience. Thanks for the upload. You saved me a few hundred from the auto body quote.
Glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching!
Great video and thanks you saved me $1K in repairs did it my self changed all 4 and coast me $60 bucks TY
Straightforward, common sense approach. Good, instructional video and anyone with good mechanical aptitude and basic hand tool experience can facilitate this repair by following this gentleman's advice. One nit-pick: volume was a bit low, but that is probably my laptop. Thank you for a good, solid basic repair video. Regards, Ambroid
glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching. I have invested in a new lapel mic so I am hoping that the audio in future videos will be dramatically improved.
it would have to have been the 4th one right
These were exactly the symptoms I had. Replacing plugs and coils solved it. Like driving a new car, thanks
glad it worked out for you! Thanks for watching!
I'm having the same problem as well with my '08 Honda Fit, but some people are also suggesting a valve adjustment. I'm not sure if I need new coil packs and spark plugs or if it needs a valve adjustment, or both!
@@jcolt84 same here. I’m starting with the simplest - coils and plugs.
How’d yours turn out?
@@jcolt84 I had to let my 2008 honda fit warm up for 2 minutes every time I first started it for the day, because if I didn't and through it in gear it would die. The valves were too tight. I adjusted the valves and it fixed the problem.
@@MyLifeThai371 you just solved my problem, because that's precisely the problem I have. Mine has a hell of a hard time accelerating to 55mph every night that I get on the highway to come home from work.
VERY methodical... If you were to remove only the wire from each ignition coil one at a time while the motor is running, you will be able to find out which coil is not working. When you remove the wire from a working coil/ cylinder that coil will stop working and that cylinder will miss. You will hear and or feel a noticeable difference in the motor and that will tell you the coil you removed the wire from, was working. When you remove the wire from the broken coil, there will be no difference in the motor's sound or operation. When you have found the coil that isn't working, replace it with the new coil.. This way you only need to remove the bad coil and replace with a new one, not change out every coil to test. Still a very good video.
Good perspective on things. Thanks for sharing that!
Only issue is you better work real fast to accomplish what you’re suggesting. The engine block is gonna get hot while you try to get on the backside to unscrew and remove coils. Easy for #1, but 2-4 I was leaning on the engine to look behind that metal piece that is right over the top of the engine blocking my view. Just my $.02.
Hahaha thats what i thought he should have done to simplify trouble shootijng
This is very cool video. 2009 Honda Fit Sport has a misfire. Already replaced plugs but still misfiring so off I go to buy a ignition coil to test it. Thanks so much for a making Honda Fit video!
Did you manage to resolve the misfiring issue after replacing the coil?
Update after watching your video and reading comments. I decided to start with the fourth pack since that was your problem one and another viewers bad part. I was right, swapped the fourth one and fixed it first try. Thanks again.
Glad you got your issue fixed. Thanks for watching!
Great video...every time you said "known good coil pack" I kinda chuckled to myself, having pulled my hair out in the past trying to troubleshoot a problem and the new part was bad also. :-)
yes I have had similar challenges in the past. It sucks when the very part that is new also fails. Its rare but it DOES happen from time to time.
I had these symptoms and replaced the four front coils. No difference, but before I got around to replacing the rear coils the misfire suddenly worsened and the car lost all power while on a motorway. The patrolman showed me his diagnostic display and the fault surprised even him...the crankshaft sensor was faulty. A simple replacement and the 18 year old car was running beautifully, not the slightest hint of a misfire.
ah yes a faulty cam or crank sensor can cause this issues indeed. Normally when they start to go that the misfires tend to be quite bad and a CEL will be thrown for a bad sensor. Hit and miss I guess as there are so many "degrees" of failure. Just glad to hear that you got your issue resolved.
I've been looking for this problem for 6 months, thanks for the info, #from south africa
great video, thanks. you know that rattle the engine makes outside the ticking, what is that sound sir? is it normal, do you still have this car, does that rattle get worse?
Rattles can be many things. Mostly exhaust heat shields that have become partially detached from their original spot welds or bolt locations. Honda heat shield rattles are remarkably common so I'd check those areas to see which one "rattles or buzzes" when the RPMs change.
Great video! I just got a nice 2008 Fit and love it BUT (!), it has this exact idling problem and I don't like it one bit! Can you please suggest a good aftermarket replacement coil that's not a small fortune? Thanks in advance!
It depends on your region of where you get your parts from. Here in Canada the aftermarket coils vs the Honda sourced ones aren't that much different in price. I believe the factory Honda ones are supplied by Hitachi but any aftermarket part that has a decent warranty on it will do as well.
I have an '08 Fit that requires a warmup before it can drive. If we don't warm it up, and put it into gear (reverse or drive), it will stall and kill the engine. It also sometimes has a fast paced clicking sound while it idle at times, I'm thinking its more in need of a valve adjustment, but do that issues sound like a misfire? 80,000 miles on the car
You may want to check for a faulty IAC valve. Sometimes when the IAC valve experiences failure that the car will have difficulty holding the proper idle spec especially when it is cold out. Clicking at idle especially when cold is expected b/c of the valve lashes being larger when the engine is cold. If it warms up and it is reasonably quiet then things should be normal. You could get the valves adjusted as it is considered preventative maintenance but it isn't typical for your low miles. Get the IAC valve check out first and see how you fare first.
I had the same problem on my 2008 Honda Fit. I had to let the engine warm up for 2 minutes in the morning during the summer, before I threw it in gear or the engine would die. It turned some of the valves had absolutely no backlash. I did a valve adjustment and it works great now!
Great video to assist all of us Honda Fit owners. I had the hesitation, watched your video. I took the simple route and replaced all 4 and the problem was solved. I guess for me this was easier than trying to figure out which one was faulty. On Ebay the coil packs are not overly expensive. You video explained the problem, showed the solution and explained the repair so that I could do this easily. Thanks for making this quick and easy.
you're most welcome. Yes replacing all 4 coil packs is the best solution b/c once a coil fails then others can follow suit.
piercedasian
At the same time I replaced the coil packs I also replaced the spark plugs since they are right there and would be due for replacement not terribly far down the road anyway. I felt that this way that part of the Ignition system would be all new and shouldn't need anything for quite some time. The Fit runs real well now and I believe my fuel consumption has improved also.
yeah replacing plugs will absolutely help b/c the ignition system doesn't need to work as "hard" to produce a spark b/c new plugs typically are gapped properly from the factory and are within the manufacturer's spec. I've seen badly worn plugs ruin coil packs b/c of the ever increasing effort needed to produce a spark. Definitely good common sense on your part. Having new plugs with new coils should make the car feel like new again :)
2008 fit i have same problem , and what i did was closed the hood and spray lot of water and find out that water filter through the rubber and wets coils and spark plugs and damaged so i will replace this hood rubber or wheather rubber . I think That's what my problem was all this time
Excellent video. I could hear at warm idle that your engine had a bit of a knock/ clacking noise. I have the same motor and same noise. Did you ever figure out what that noise was?
Excellent video, and diagnosis of problem, only concern would be if you have a bad spark plug, it would exhibit be the same type of misfire, suggest checking them first ( cheaper than a coil) , then the coils. If over 7 years old OR over 105,000 miles.
Valid point indeed. Spark plugs at least from my experience rarely fail (by rare I mean never) in the 1000's of cars I've worked on. This is not to say it isn't possible. It absolutely is and given how inexpensive plugs are that it is almost good practice to just change out the 4 plugs first to see if that resolve the misfiring issue and if it doesn't then move onto the more costly coils.
My 2008 Fit has a different set of symptoms. It idles smooth as silk. The misfire happens if I press the pedal down at low RPM. It began one day after previous days and months were perfect. Since it has 190,000 miles on it, I'm changing the coils and plugs. By the way, prices range from $40 to 277 for a set of 4 coils!!!! What could be the difference, gold wiring?
hmm, your symptoms still could be linked to faulty coils. This car in question idled so smoothly despite its misfire that it was initially hard to catch. It wasn't until I drove it under load and sudden loads (hard acceleration) did the coil failures really rear its ugly head. That being said, if you replace all plugs and put in a new set of coils that chances are you'll resolve a lot of your engine woes. The coil pack prices range significantly in price for several reasons - quality (made in Japan, USA or China), brand name (well known brands vs. some random non-name brand), and whether it comes wrapped in Honda packaging. Honda packages ones have to meet a certain specification that Honda defines and should assure the consumer that the fit and finish and performance qualities meet that standard. This is not to say that parts you buy outside of the Honda parts department is bad - lots of great quality parts there too but your mileage may vary.
I bought this replacement coil pack from Honda for LESS money than a good quality aftermarket part so naturally I went with the Honda part.
Hey my fit has the same problem. I’m about to replace coils and plugs and do a valve adjustment, did you ever resolve the issue? Thanks
Very useful video.. thank you!
Could it happen that more than one cylinder or ignition coil are bad and need to be fixed or it happens only with one coil at once?
yes absolutely. Multiple failures can happen especially to part that is from the same manufacturing batch and operated under the same conditions. Anything goes as far as failures are concerned. Some coils could be on the verge of failing while others have plenty of life left in them. It's hit and miss but not unheard of.
Nice video. I think it needs to be pointed out that there are two banks of cylinders - front and rear - which use different coils so if you're using this method of troubleshooting you will need to buy a front and a rear coil. Either that or take a gamble on just buying one or the other and being prepared to have to order the other one if it doesn't fix it first time.
Julian, to clarify I believe you meant to say that there are two banks of opposed firing plugs and not cylinder. Dual cylinder banks would suggest this engine is V 4 config which it is definitely not. In North America at least the Fit only comes with a single row of ignition coils (4 in total). I believe you are in Europe? I've heard from some of my viewers that they have 2 spark plugs per cylinder (that's way cool) and hence why there is a front bank of coil packs and a rear bank..
@@piercedasian
Hi Yes you're correct - 8 spark plugs, 8 ignition coils (consisting of 2 types - front and rear) and 4 cylinders. Lots to go wrong!
@@CCintheUK This is specific to the iDSI engine models.
Thank you. I’ve been having same problem and went to get is fixed and my quote came up to 870NZD 🤦🏾♂️ but now, it’s looks like it’ll only cost me the coil pack and my time haha thank you again
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much my fourth coil pack was also deffective. You saved me so much time and money!!!!
you're most welcome! thanks for watching!
Fourth pack was defective? Worst run of bad luck ever.
Thanks for the video. So informative! My car broke down in the middle of motorway today because of the broken ignition coils. I want to repair myself but have trouble with purchasing the items. Are the ignition coils of Jazz same with Fit? My car is Honda Fit 2005
Yep Jazz is the Asian/European version of the Fit.
thank you for sharing your knowledge. can you share how to change the engine mounting of this honda fit car.
Unfortunately I do not have a Fit to currently work on that needs a replacement engine mount. When I do I promise I will make a video for it.
I can see the part number (30520 PWC S01) at 6:58 but can't see what brand it is. When I look at RockAuto's selection, several brands have that same part number but not the HItachi IGC0053, which is denoted as the "Actual OE part." Curious which brand you used? Also curious why you didn't replace all 4?
The part is actually straight from Honda. No need to replace all 4 if they other 3 are working fine. So far the car has clocked over 10, 000kms with zero issues on the other coils.
Had the same symptoms in my 2008 Fit with 117k Miles. I went all in and replaced all 4 coil packs.
Problem solved. Runs like new.
Glad you hear it fixed your issue. The Fit seems to be plagued with faulty coil packs. Of the 100's of Honda's I've worked on the Fit seems to have this recurring issue.
But this car have 8 coils,not 4.
Me too have eight
Thank you buddy, just like you it was finally fixed when I got to the last cylinder. Many thanks.
that's great news! Glad your engine is running smoothly again.
I got no check engine light but my code is still reading a misfire in cylinder 4 I replaced all the ignition coils spark plugs and wires but I still have the code in the car only runs rough the first 5 minutes of being started then run smooth the rest of the day
How much does this ignition coil cost?
Good video. Kudos for doing this in mid winter. I waited for the spring and I started with cylinder 4. LOL. And yes the volume was low.
yeah, I hate fixing cars in the winter. I was going to invest in a garage heater this year but chintz out because I know I'm still sorta tough and can weather out the cold if I really needed to.
Now THAT'S a good DIY video. Well-done, Bubba!
Thanks!
Hello, It won't bring any problem to change only one? I have the 1.2 with 8 spark plugs and 8 coils. In thi case I should change the pair of coils of the affected cylinder or just one?
Thanks! great video
Yikes 8 plugs for a little 4 cylinder car? Here in North America we do not have such engine configurations. In your particular case it IS okay to change just one coil since it operates independently of the other coils anyways.
You described my issue exactly however, mine has triggered the check engine light but your issue did not. This makes me assume it must not be the same problem.
I just replaced plugs I had the same problem but not all the time. I have 200,000 km on my 2008 fit. I removed the last plug by hand didn't have to use the ratchet. The coil had soot running up the center post and the plug had soot along one side of threads. I hope thats it but I'll keep an eye on this if it persists. Thanks for the video.
wow glad you got your car woes resolved! Yes when a plug isn't torqued down properly it can migrate its way out of the spark plug threads and cause some serious damage if neglected.
I have a slow jump loss of power in my first 3 gears & 5th as well... have you heard of this?
hmm, no I can't say that I have. Is your engine running properly? Does it rev up quickly in neutral? If it does but you're losing power while in drive then you may have a blocked catalytic converter that is hindering your engine's power output.
For my Fit, idle is smooth. Pressing the gas pedal medium to hard at low RPM causes shuddering. After a couple of days, got check engine light. Mechanic said he can read the check engine code. Next day he says "Could be spark plugs, could be coils. $550" How come the computer code isn't specific? I explained I am on fixed SS income, asked can you just do the plugs and see how it runs? All communication is by voicemail. He will not agree to do just the plugs for now. Am I being fleeced?
I would ask him to provide the specifics on the engine code. In some circumstances the CEL code occasionally doesn't tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It could be simply a generic P0300 code. I'd get your mechanic to justify his thinking on why he won't do just the plugs and if he can't provide a reasonable answer then I'd say find another mechanic. I will say this however, that if your car has relatively low miles or the plugs are fairly new (less than 100, 000 miles on them) then chances are that they're not the plugs going bad.
that's great that he did it for free. At the dealership they'll charge $80 just to look at the vehicle. Unbelievable for 2 minutes of work.
Thank you for the video , it was really useful , greeting from Haiti .
you're very welcome!
Wondering if the cold has any impact on this symptom, as mine only started once winter started to set in, originally only noticeable when the car was stone cold. I have a set on order and am looking forward to getting mine swapped, especially if it means I can hold off on a valve adjustment for a while longer. Thanks!
Outside temps can have an impact on how the coils perform but generally speaking it is the heat that kills them more than the cold. The cold will impact the voltages needed to fire up a cold engine. Cold engines and richer fuel mixtures due to the cold require a stronger spark to ignite and if your coils are on the cusp of failing that it may lack the required "pop" needed to fire a spark plug to its maximum voltage. This results in inconsistent burn or colloquially - a misfire. Hopefully a spark plug replacement and coil swap will resolve your issues. Good luck.
I have a 2005 Honda Airwave (Same engine as yours i believe)with Hitachi cm11-110 ignition coils(Notice online they say that these coils are only for 07-08 models). Do you have a recommendation on where to pick up some replacement coils online for a decent price?
that will really depend on where you live in the world. Any auto parts store will be able to locate one for you at a reasonable cost and as far as quality is concerned that I can't say I have come across some really junk quality parts (probably ebay?) so you should be okay just buying them locally. If you're in the USA then Rock Auto is a solid place to buy your parts from.
Don’t know if it’s been covered before. But what if you have two bad coils. How do you go about identifying the bad ones because switching one out at a time may not help effectively identifying the bad ones?
Two bad coils will unfortunately be more difficult to troubleshoot. Depending on your mileage and if you suspect you have multiple coil failures that chances are they should all be replaced as a complete set to spare yourself the aggravation and time trying to figure out which coil is faulty.
My question is why would you assume it's the coil to begin with, and not worn out spark plugs? Thanks for your video, very informative.
I assume the coils are bad from experience of working on so many Honda's. The Honda Fit comes from Honda with NGK Iridium plugs that can go WELL past 200, 000kms and still be in like new condition. This specific car I was working on already had new plugs put in by Honda so by default I knew it likely wasn't the plugs but a bad coil which were notorious on the Fit for failing prematurely.
Does this problem occur on any later generation Honda Fits? Would you recommend buying or not buying a Honda Fit?
It seems to be the most prevalent on the first gen Honda fits although I have seen all models of cars from other car makers have similar issues. The first gen fit just seems worse than average. Thankfully it's easy and relatively inexpensive to fix.
@@piercedasian Thanks for your reply!
I understand you can track down misfires by selectively deactivating cylinders (sometimes called a power balance test). Is that something you can easily do on Honda engines of this era, e.g. using OBD commands?
no that is not something that can be done via an OBD II scan tool. The OBDII scan tool is in many cases smart enough to tell the tech which cylinder is misfiring and usually all that is done is a spark plug inspection and coil replacement and that is often enough to fix the issue.
Did you use dielectric grease in the coil?
I sometimes do and sometimes don't depending on the car I'm working on. For Honda's and Toyotas I generally DO NOT use it. If you opt to use some use a tiny tiny dab of it on the tip of the spark plug but don't make the mistake I've seen some folks do by smearing a ton of it on. Even from the factory they don't use dielectric grease.
Engine check light.
Getting these two codes as error
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0351 ignition coil a primary secondary circuit
Will changing coil solve the issue?
In most cases it will. May want to pull the spark plug too to see if its badly worn. I actually had one case where I thought the coil was not working right but it turned out the plugs were worn down to little nubs! Always check the condition of the plugs and if they're good then go ahead and replace the coil(s).
i get no lights, but my 2008 fit juts had a tune upo but only gets 14 MPG city in LA...,, had all plugs changed.. ignition starter cleaned...help? car egine seems good. sounds good. no idle issue pleanty of power.just bad milegae.. cars is new.. used buy from 3 weeks ago.
2:39 that piece should pull off or apart .
If it is burned it will probably break apart .
And you can actually see the small spring that is overheating and arcing
I'm having the exact same problem with my 08 Honda Fit, except my check engine light isn't on. Some people are suggesting that I get a valve adjustment done, and some people are suggesting I change the spark plugs and coil packs. Which is true, or do both need to be performed?
Ah yes... the infamous misfire. I'd suggest that you carefully inspect the plugs. If they're looking clean and healthy that I'd probably recommend that you change the coil packs since they're notorious for prematurely failing on the fit. If that still doesn't resolve your issue then at that point I'd do a valve adjustment b/c that CAN cause issues but that is often the last resort. Does the misfire happen in the entire RPM range or does it only do it in idle like this car did?
@@piercedasian The car usually only hesitates when idling/stopped. As if the engine is still cold. Without a check engine light on, it's difficult to pinpoint what the problem is.
hmm, I'd definitely say its probably worn plugs and a bad coil b/c when the car is cold it runs rich and will likely "miss" or "stumble" when the air fuel ratio is richer than normal. Valve related problems often manifest themselves when the engine is hot b/c the valve lash tightens up when the engine is warmed up which is when the misfires typically happen. Not sure if you're overly keen on replacing all 4 plugs AND coils but that is an option you could look into.
Hello my friend my car only misfires only while driving. Last year I changed all 8 coils(the black thing you're changing)but still misfiring so I cleaned egr and throttle body but still misfires what solutions you suggest because mechanic s didn't know what's wrong
that is a sign of your intake and exhaust valve lash clearances are out of whack. Definitely pop that valve cover off and make sure you take the time to adjust and TRIPLE check your valve lash adjustments. When the lash clearances get too tight it will cause a misfire condition because the valves aren't sealing properly - typically the exhaust valves. If this condition is not properly resolved that over time you WILL burn the exhaust valves and will need to get the valves replaced (insanely expensive).
Dude your Honda fit sounds like it hasn't been well maintained. Sure sounds neglected. The good thing, it fixed your problem! Cheers.
It sounds neglected but I can assure you the owner takes very good care of it (they did after all bring it to me to fix). Faulty coil packs on the fit are extremely common.
replaced all four coil packs a year ago, and the car reacted well-shuttering, and strange idling went away, and MPG increased dramatically. But recently shuttering has started again-particularly when running the A/C, and now it won't start in the cold. Is it possible for the coil packs to fail so quickly after replacing?
Also, Honda dealership is ignorant when it comes to coil packs-I had been taking it in for service for years-even had to replace the cad. convertor. When I found out about the coil pack issue, and told them about it, honda service denies that this could be an issue. Is there a possibility that something else is causing these symptoms, or something else is causing the degradation of the coil pack?
no not likely. Coil packs in the fit were notoriously bad and as a result of misfiring cylinders is what ultimately leads to pre-mature cat converter death. I would say that your coil packs could very well be no good (you could've had a bad batch) and need to replace again. It's RARE that it would happen that way but I have seen it a few times in my career. Consider replacing plugs if they even remotely look worn.
thank you so much!!! ... i will try to fix mine since i have the sputtering upon initial acceleration
you're welcome!
That was very helpful ! Do you HAVE to use actual honda or are aftermarket ones ok?
No need for Honda ones. You can definitely use aftermarket coils but the quality of them can't be verified. I trust Honda parts b/c they've had to meet a spec before they're allowed to have the Honda name on them. Cheap aftermarket coils can be junk especially the super cheap Chinese junk you can buy.
@@piercedasian find who manufacturers the oem part for Honda and buy from them
Hitachi made these coils for honda
Our Honda Jazz (eu fit) skips and shakes as I accelerate. No rough running at idle. I changed all spark plugs but not the coils. Shall I swap all eight of them? Or swap the distributor?
I'm not overly familiar with the european version of the Jazz. In North America our Fits have 4 coils and 4 plugs and uses a distributorless ignition system. Are you sure your car has a distributor? I suspect that you have faulty coil packs that require replacing (common failure point on the fit/jazz).
I think this might be the problem I'm having as it does the same sputtering while stopped or when the ac is turned on, as well as full system shut down randomly. The only thing that you didnt list that is happening to me is a squealing sound when the car first starts or when the ac is also on. Would this symptom be related to this as well?
Squealing is likely due to a bad bearing or a loose belt. Since you have a fit I believe they use an auto belt tensioner which means you might have a bad pulley or idler bearing.
I have the same problem as the PRM on the speedometer not getting off easily. It is the problem of the headphones ignition
I have the same issue..bad shaking idle and when ac on but run well at 3000rpm and up jazz vtec 2007...before i buy and replace the coil , could it caused of dirty combustion chamber? I've looked with my hose camera and the up side of piston very dirty
It is possible but a dirty combustion chamber could be a result of poor firing of the plug. While I can't say the putting a new coil in the engine will fix your problem that a dirty cylinder COULD be a sign of it not doing a complete burn. Only way to find out is try swapping coils from a known clean cylinder and see if it "cleans up". If it does then you know the coil is weak.
@@piercedasian thanks for fast response..i think it's a good idea to do what you suggested.. i've observed, dissambled and clean the coil and the coil seems not in good shape anymore..i got nothing to loose if i just buy and replace all 4 coil..thank you sir
Would this be the same for random cylinder misfire? My reader pulls a misfire detection from cyl 2-4 but not 1 as well as the random cylinder code as well. Was wondering if it's compression or fuel rather than injection. Any thoughts?
Hmm every time I’ve seen this issue it is usually because of worn plugs and faulty coils. Replace your plugs with a fresh set of quality NGK plugs (only use NGK) and then reset check engine light. Drive around and see if it throws the same codes. If they do the chances are that your coils are also bad. They are a known problem spot on the fit so repacking all 4 isn’t unusual. I just did a Fit yesterday with the same problem and after all new parts were put in that it runs like a champ again.
My dear brother, I have a Honda Honda Jazz automatic in 2004 where the automatic transmission, the car sirens and the appearance of the D sign are separated, can you help me solve the problem?
the car sirens and the appearance of the D light is separated? Might be best to show me on a video of what the symptoms are.
Hello, I have a 2007 Honda Fit. I got the coils replaced twice within the last fours years of having the car. The second time I replaced the coils I got the catalytic converter replaced also as the mechanic said this was a problem as well. Each time I also got the spark plugs replaced. This was possibly 8 months ago. Today the check engine light is on. Blinks when the car gets over 2000 rpm and continues to blink until it returns under 2000 rpm or so. Stutters when idiling. Car dies when the a/c is on and idling. The car must be driving in order for the car not to die while the a/c is on. Can you please suggest what else this could be? Clogged vacuum lines?
nope, sounds like faulty plugs or failed coils again. Are you buying Honda coils or aftermarket? If they're aftermarket I suggest you buy Honda ones because of consistent quality (for the most part). Make sure the plug you use are the NGK ones spec'ed for your car's year and engine.
Demetria B Sir did you check the level of ATF?
I heard honda fit IDSI engine have 8sparkplugs. so it has 8coil packs too?
If you have a Fit that is in other markets other than USA/Canada then yes you can have up to 8 coil packs for the 8 plugs.
this is my problem right now,thanks for sharing this vid
Glad I could help!
I have this problem with my element I think. I'm going to get a good coil and try it out. Thanks.
Good luck!
What brand are you using for the coil?
The replacement coil I'm using is from Honda which I believe is made by Hitachi. You can easily get some aftermarket ones (permitted they're good quality ones) and it will all work the same.
My daughter's 2007 Honda Fit stalls when she is stopped. It is infrequent, but it is scary when it happens as the car rolls forward. Could the ignition coils misfiring be the cause?
that definitely could be one reason. Does her car have a check engine light that pops up? Has her car had the usual tune up done it?
How do you remove coil four? There is a metal bracket in the way.
the bracket if I remember correctly is held on by a single 10 or 12mm bolt. You can either manoeuvre the coil past it (it's a tight fit) or just loosen the bracket retaining bolt and give you a bit more clearance.
Thank you so much! Someone had rig some funky bracket on there that confused me. I was able to get my car running really smooth with only a $20 coil thanks to your expertise!
Thanks for the video, but can you tell me where the mass air flow sensor is please?
Yikes, I don' have the fit in front of me now and your question was posted a month ago but if I had to guess it would be right by the airbox on the snorkel.
i believe my 2001 astro van has the same problem, hopefully its not to tricky to do . A question i have though is, when im stopped at a light and put the van in neutral it seems to idle a lot smoother ,any ideas? thx
+david tanner in your astro it likely could be linked to a faulty ignition control module. VERY common GM problem. Does your Astro have individual coil packs on each cylinder or does it have a coil bank? If it is a coil bank then the board underneath the coil bank gets weak and then causes ignition misfires. Seen them a LOT on GMs
i think your right on it having a coil bank, i was watching your power steering fluid replacement video on the odessey , and saw the misfiring fit video and seemed like my astro was doing the same. i looked up and found a video on the astro van and a guy replaced, what was the coil bank like you stated, so i might go that route. sorry for the long reply. thanks for your insight and knowledge, keep up the vids!
let us know how your fix went. Word of advice is that when you do replace the ignition module that you consider buying a brand new part. Used pieces tend to have the same intermittent failure problems like yours does and it would be a hassle to put in another faulty used part when you could've fixed it properly with a new piece. Just a suggestion....
had the exact same problem. very helpful video thanks
glad you found it useful!
i had gone ahead and changed all 4 ignition coils, but still am not able to fix the problem, is there any other way, please suggest
have you changed the spark plugs as well? I've seen some fit spark plugs that have never been serviced be so worn out that the engine started running weird.
good job thanks my jazz shakes like a sheep dog shitting a bit . so now I know how to fix it
haha, good luck :)
Time is short, so when my 2008 Fit base model 5-speed was misfiring on the highway and stalling at intersections, a local garage changed the coil packs and spark plugs with Honda parts, and also cleaned the fuel injection. It ran like new for a month. When the symptoms returned, the same shop replaced the egr valve. The Fit ran well for a week, but now the symptoms have returned.
Any ideas? Valve adjustment? Again, after 10 minutes of driving, it misfires and wants to stall at intersections.
hmm, you should get your crank sensor checked out as those as they fail start causing all sorts of drivability issues. They usually throw a check engine light but if they're getting weak but not necessarily intermittent that the car starts running like junk. Does it tend to get worse when its hot vs. cold? You should also do a check on the exhaust manifold around the o2 sensor. I had a car that had a really bad idle misfire and it turned out that the exhaust manifold was cracked on the underside and thus bleeding ambient air into the exhaust stream causing the car to think it was running lean and at that point it richened up the system and was dumping way too much fuel into the motor causing it to run poorly.
@@piercedasian Thanks for getting back to me. I took the 2008 Fit to a mechanic I've trusted for years and requested a valve adjustment. It seemed to me this was the next thing to try. He took it for a spin, called me back, and suggested the valves seemed OK. He recommended Sea Foam treatment in the gas tank and oil reservoir, because he suspected carbon deposits on my valves.
The Fit is now running like a new car, with 275,000 miles, and my trusty mechanic saved me hundreds of dollars. How strange is that?
@@freitag314 Nice! This gives me hope. My 2008 Honda Fit is at 198,000 miles and runs like new now that I got the valves adjusted. They were too tight with no valve lash. It gets 36.5 mpg at 75 mph on interstate still.
@@MyLifeThai371 Good to hear from another Honda Fit enthusiast! My three daughters learned to drive in my Fit before I replaced the first clutch at 275k miles. It now has 312k miles and needs new control arms, which appears to be a DIY job.
@@freitag314 I replaced my own control arm on my 2005 Mustang. The bolts were very tight. I had to buy a 27mm flex head ratchet wrench and put a 10ft cheater pipe on it. Hopefully they are not that tight on the Honda Fits.
Since this was done has the coil failed again?. My same coil is failing now. Due to be replaced
nope. Car's been running perfect since I changed the coil out.
thanks for this vid! im about to do this if i have my time. any links where i can order this ignition coil packs online?
amazon.com, rockauto.com or any local auto parts store or even the dealership are great places to buy them.
I have a Honda Jazz (not Fit here in Portugal) from 2004. I have engine codes P0300, P0302 and P0304. I guess I don't notice missfires as you do in your engine, but do you think it could be ignition coils? I already spent some good money on mechanics, and they couldn't fix my problem. Guess I'll have to figure it out myself. Just to let you know, I already had to replace the catalytic converter because the car was not passing in the emissions test. Also, replaced all 8 spark plugs.
Thanks! :)
+José Melo you had to replace the cat converter b/c you likely were misfiring and dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust system which then resulted in the catalyst getting damaged which means it can't do it's job anymore. If you've got a misfire code like that I would suggest that you buy brand new set of spark plug coils either from Honda or from a 3rd party parts supplier. It just takes some misfires to do damage again to your new cat so it would be wise of you to get that fixed sooner than later.
Hi. Thanks for your answer. I already cleaned all 8 coils. They had some oxidation which I think was causing those problems. After cleaning them, the misfire continued. Despite de codes thrown by ECU (P0300, P0302), I really don't feel any difference in the engine behavior.
Last week I was curious, and cleaned throttle body. Since then, I already drove 600Km and no check engine light. Still, I'm tempting to replace all ignition coils due to the oxidation I found on them. What do you think?
Jose you mention that you cleaned all 8 coils. Maybe I'm not understanding something here but the Honda Jazz/Fit only have 4 ignition coils and 4 spark plugs so I'm not sure where you're getting 8 coils. Can you elaborate to help me understand?
Thanks,
+piercedasian The Honda Jazz 1.2 iDSI has 8 spark plugs and 8 coils, 2 for each cylinder.
whoa crazy. In Canada there is no such model... you have a 1.2L? Tiny little super efficient engine!
I only know of the 1.5L in our Fits...
Thanks for this video. It's very helpful for people who have wasted a lot of money in unsuccessful repairs and bad diagnoses. So the first generation of Fits has only 4 ignition coils? Is the engine sound at 5:41 normal? Were there any other problems with the engine at that time? Especially at 5:56 onwards it sounds really strange. This is how my Fit sounds too but I keep telling the mechanics at the service center to check the engine for problems as I don't like the sound of it. I also keep telling them that this was not how the engine sounded like when it was newer. Specifically I feel like when the engine was newer it sounded like a normal gasoline engine but after 60k miles it started to sound more and more like a diesel engine. So it this normal? And lastly, how much did the ignition coil cost?
How an engine sounds normal is a highly subjective opinion. The key thing is the firing of all cylinders is consistent at all RPMs. Any sputtering or "spitting" at the exhaust is a tell tale sign that some is amiss (literally). If it runs smooth, drives smooth and you're still finding it noisy then chances are that you may have an exhaust leak or you may need a valve adjustment to be done on your car to quiet the valve train down.
Cost of coils @ Honda Canada is about $130 each. Aftermarket Eaton electric ones are about $90 each.
Same issue here! What came of it and did you ever figure out the source of the noise?
Hi, I have a 2007 fit which was experiencing the same symptoms jerking at 2000 to 3000 rpm. its been a few months, I changed the fuel filter in the tank, it wasn't solved, then when i got fed up of feeling that jerk I did a scan and got a crank position sensor code. I installed a new one but had the same jerking problem. My dealership checked plugs and found one burnt out plug at the back because my car carries 8 plugs and 8 coils. however they said that the ckp code was not going away and kept asking whether I had bought a genuine sensor. I had a genuine sensor put in. They then told me that it was a faulty reluctor wheel otherwise known as crank pulser plate and that it was the first time they had come across this . I really wondered why they would tell me that the pulser plate would have an issue as this is way down in the engine, and I don't even think that they actually went there. long story shortened, i got someone else to pull out the coils and to inspect them and two on the exhaust side were leaking. Imajine after all that it was leaking coils. As we didnt have new ones at the time we taped them up with electrical tape. Issue was solved. no jerking at any rpm. so now i am waiting for new coils that i ordered. if you have that issue, please check your coils and plugs. note i never got codes for misfire.
interesting issue you have there. When you say leaking coils are you referring to plugs that weren't torqued down correctly? I didn't quite understand what you meant by leaking and sealing it with electrical tape. Coils to my knowledge don't leak (unless you're referring to electrical leakage). Good tips nonetheless. I can't imagine a little tiny FIT engine with 8 spark plugs. Whereabouts are you located? In North America we just have 4 plugs and coils.
@@piercedasian yes that's exactly what I'm saying. Electrical leakage. What we saw to determine that something was wrong was this, white residue around the neck of the coil and also on the opening of the block where the plug and coils fit. Somthing like this. www.fitfreak.net/forums/attachments/1st-generation-gd-01-08/5614d1468279131-try-cleaning-spring-contacts-ignition-coils-fix-misfire-problem-80-p1170850_df3a43fe72b6020ee5017a9ead64599caa9f70b1.jpg So we taped it tightly to keep nothing from escaping.
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Mines is reving between 1500~2500 rpms only when in neutral and with the car moving. Do you reckon that's due to misfiring too?
The higher rpms while coasting in neutral is normal (usually around 1000-1200RPM on my car) but the bouncing is definitely not. If it is bouncing up and down that is indicative of an intake air leak. Has the manifold or throttle body ever been removed from the car? How are the vacuum lines?
@@piercedasianyes I had to remove the throttle body recently to clean the IAC valve. I've just noticed too that one of the screws on the air filter box is missing. I guess that or probably a bad seal on the throttle body might explain. Thanks
Hi, i have honda jazz 2008 automatic, my car sometimes jerks when accelerating and engine turns off, mechanic did a diagnostic and said its crank sensor, I changed the sensor but problem is still there, any suggestions, bought this car a few months ago so I don't know if the previous owner has changed spark plugs or not.
Given that plugs are cheap that I would start there first to make sure your "baseline" is good. Use ONLY NGK plugs in your Honda. Never use Bosch, E3 or whatever other brands out there. NGK all the way.
Thanks, mate, I have changed all 8 spark plugs and now the car is perfect.
I replaced all 4 coilpack and 4 spark plug , but 3 of 4 cilanders still misfires , what could be the issue
I would adjust the valves too. Some valve adjustment only last 50,000 miles.
yeah, I've had hit and miss with some cars on valve adjustments. You're correct in that a valve adjustment shockingly can solve a lot of idle/drivability issues
Hi anyone sees this, can you please respond as soon as possible? I have a 2009 fit with about a 137000 miles. I think what you're describing here is what is happening to my vehicle and I plan on getting it fixed in a couple of weeks because I won't have the money until then. But i need to make a trip tomorrow morning for work--it's about 80 miles round trip in wondering if I will be OK? What are the chances of its stalling on me or breaking down when I'm on the highway?
I have 2 options is far as a route to where am going. One is taking the interstate and the other is taking a county highway. The interstate makes me nervous because it is heavily trafficked which would be a good thing if I do stall theyll be more to help me but heavy traffic could also be a bad thing! But there is traffic on the county highway as well just not as heavy obviously.
Any advice is welcome! Thanks in advance!
Just a couple of FYI 's. When I get to my destination the car will be sitting for several hours so I won't be driving in coming right back but the total miles miles driven would be about 80 to 90.
Also right now I am parked and idling and it seems to be fine. I only noticed it when I'm driving in after I've been driving for just a few miles. It's not constant but like every few minutes.
It depends on how bad the misfiring is. If your car is running and driving around town just fine that you MIGHT be able to squeak that trip in before fixing it but again it depends how bad the misfire is. The problem with misfires or a weak spark is that the component can fail without a moment's notice and leave you stranded. Is there a way you can borrow funds to fix it before your trip or perhaps take a bus or alternate means to get to work?
Thanks! Very informative video.
Hi, I have a misfire problem on my honda fit 07 and It started after 5 mins driving. The misfire will happen when I slow down on a stop sign or traffic light. I have replaced all the spark plug and I have tested all the coils are good. Can you please let me know what else I need to check? thanks
Do you have any check engine lines and are you sure the coils are in fact good? Coils interestingly will work fine at higher RPMS and then falter at idle speeds. I would make sure that you're using genuine NGK plugs (Honda uses NGK spark plugs) and then re-test the motor. If you're using NGK plugs then I'm still led to believe that the coils could be bad - I have seen LOTS of these coils go and yet the car is still very driveable until you get them to run at idle speeds.
Same here
Finally, I have replaced all 4 coils and now my car run without any problem. thanks for your help again
Ives replaced all of my coils and plugs with oem and it still misfires while it’s starting in the cold (the weird thing that it runs normal when starting up again). Mines a 2009 so idk if valve adjustment counts
hmm interesting... I wonder if your crank position sensor is on the way out. I'd lead towards a possible requirement for a valve adjustment as this little 1.5 liter motor was known to act up when valve lash adjustments get out of whack (and they often do).
@@piercedasian update obd2 said it was cylinder 3 and 4, I think it only happens under 40 degrees and after I drive for like 2 minutes and stopping on a light, so the way to not get the engine light on is wait for the car to warm up for like 3-4 minutes so either valves need to be adjusted or injectors are failing/clogged, it still drives good though
I'd opt to vote for a valve adjustment as it is a common thing on the honda's (too tight from factory). Valve adjustments are routine maintenance items so doing it isn't going to harm it. It should be done anyways when the car hits 100, 000kms or more.
@@piercedasianafter thinking about it might as well do it
Would you recommend doing it in a dealer or regular mechanic (i have one that’s 2 minutes away)
Fantastic video thank you so much
you're very welcome.
Where did you get the coils from ???
Honda dealership
Thanks you for the video, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, I have the same fit, and it's jerking with these symptoms.
I would describe the jerking sensation similar to clutching in suddenly
for a split second and clutching back out immediately again without
letting go off the accelerator. The jerks can be anything from once or
thrice or even multiple, but not lasting more than 5 seconds.
It jerks in these scenarios:
When turning out to join the main street (90 deg turns)
When there's a slight incline, my fit will jerk at about 2000rpm on D
mode. And again, on a slight incline, the fit will jerk at about 3000rpm
on S mode.
Fuel filter and spark plugs have been changed 2 years ago.
Any idea what's wrong? Is it the coil pack or transmission?
I would first suggest that you determine WHAT is the cause of the problem. Does the car idle and rev up fine? Does it always happen only in the above scenarios? What about straight line driving? Does it have good and bad days?
hey man. turns out its a coil pack.. it idle and revs up fine. though the CEL said it was a crankshaft position sensor, it wasn't. thanks btw!
not a problem. Glad you figured it out.
My Honda city Vtec 2005 L15A engine has P1351 & P1353 code, is it because of bad coil pack? Thanks
cylinders 1 and 3 are misfiring.
What obd2 scanner are you using sir?
is a coil pack the same as fuel injectors? my check k engine light is on, and autozone says it the fuel injectors and misfire in 3 &4 spark plugs.
coil packs are not the same as injectors but if I had to place my bets on what is really wrong chances are the coil packs are defective or on the verge of failing. Honda injectors are insanely reliable and I have yet to see a single one fail in a daily driver vehicle. Race applications are different but most folks don't race their Hondas at a track @ 8000RPMS all day long.
Thanks
I have Honda fit model 2013 old shape. When I am driving knocking is feeling to me.after this I change the svo2 egr valve the knocking is finished but after two day the knocking is again produced.
hmm, where about are you driving (what country) and does the knocking change when you use a higher grade fuel?
Had this exact issue with my 2008 Honda Fit. It also started throwing codes for the cat but went away after changing the coils. Any reason it would do this?
b/c misfiring can screw up the cat badly from not properly burning the fuel. Proper running engine usually means everything else is now working in harmony.
So im on the side of the highway with help on the way. My 2008 fit has had a cat code for the last 25,000km and it has clearly needed a new coil since I have been experiencing these symptoms for the past 16 months.
Luckily my landlord is coming to help me and has an OBII. Hopefully tomorrow when it’s light out we can replace the plugs and it’s all good.
However today the problem must have gotten worse from being left unchecked for god knows how long. The engine light began flashing and it was doing a continuous misfire whenever in drive. Hopefully I didn’t do any severe damage before pulling over. We will replace the coils tomorrow and see how she goes.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful.
My ignitions coils seem to get damaged and need replacement "too often", is there anything that might be causing this problem? i also have an honda fit 2007
define what is too often? Are you using Honda coils and NGK plugs that are gapped properly?
wonderful instructional video - Thank you !!
you're welcome!
Are there only 4 ignitions coils on 2007 Honda Fit engine? or 8? any ignitions coils in the front? If I want to replace them all？
nope, only 4. It is a 4 cylinder engine that uses single coil on plug ignition system.
But I saw some Honda Fits have 8 ignitions coils, thank you anyway.
I have heard some people tell me that as well but in North America we only have 4 plugs. If there are 8 then I can't say I've seen let alone worked on one. Interesting. What market is your Fit in? Asia? South America?
Canada, but I will check it . thank you
hi just wanted know the rattling sound the car makes at 6th minutes onwards is the sound of what actually..??
rattling/knocking sound sorry... :)... would you mind expalain that to me tq.
exhaust/car vibrations is the source of the noise and not the engine itself.
Can it be the bearings? Or pulley? That made the noise..
You can also simply unhook each coil pack wiring harness 1 at a time to pinpoint what cylinder is bad..
you could try that but the problem is that often times, a coil could be firing fine during idle too and when you pull the connector that it can cause the motor to run rough thus creating a false positive. Your approach is definitely logical but there is still some degree of "testing error" that can occur.
i would like to ask if there are any other way to test the coils with out change try and error way !! for example if i disconnect the wire only does show which coil is damaged?!
not unless you have a very expensive ignition system tester that costs a LOT of money. It is so easy to do that there isn't a reason why one couldn't do it the way as shown in the vid.
Disconnect one wire at a time. If you disconnect a good coil, the engine will start to stall. If you disconnect a bad coil, and the engine sounds the same with no difference, then that is the bad coil.
Rather than run the engine to listen for misfiring for each coil pack separately, go to any large auto parts shop and ask them to check for code of Check Engine light (FREE!). That will tell which cylinder is misfiring.
Lance in some cases the code will not tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It depends on certain conditions and whether the ECU catches the fault as it happens. I'm working on a Lexus right now that has misfiring issues and the ECU doesn't tell me which cylinder is misfiring.
Do you know what would cause a car to run fine at nuetral and idle, yet it stalls as soon as it is switched to Reverse or Drive. Also it is worst when the car is warm.
could be a bad transmission.