I just bought an e12 and it’s all your fault! Clearly your videos helped me with my decision, great job 👏 and I’m looking forward to my experiences with this tool. Thank you for your work
Nice job with your John Deere tractor I have a two series tractor a 2038R John Deere tractor I always love John Deere they do such a great job and I love mine I have the turbo diesel in mine and it’s about 40 hp does everything I wanted to do I just joined your channel great video
I have an old JD 1518 batwing, but I added a third hose so I can work the wings independently of each other. For around ponds and banks it makes it real nice tipping one side up or down as needed. Since you have a third scv, something to consider.
Two options u would really like would be the fender buttons to raise and lower the 3 point hitch arms. And the other would be the Fender mounted PTO switch to assist in aligning the shaft with what you’re hooking up. Got both on mine and they save a lot of time and aggravation.
I have about 13 acres to cut in total. I use my batwing for as much as I can. I get as close to the house as I can which leaves tight places and up along my road front. To answer your question I would guess the split to be 11 batwing and 2 zero turn.
Nice tractor and nice mower , we mow grass over 24" high with x500 lawn tractor thats thick as crap, there was no thick stuff in there LOL ok ok So what made you pick the the 5075m over the 5075e, there is about $30K difference
The E series would have been fine. However, when I can I prefer to buy equipment rated beyond the application for which it will be used. For example, if I’m towing 10,000 lbs I don’t want a truck rated to haul 10,000 lbs. I want one rated for 15,000 lbs. in my experience that greatly changes the towing experience in a positive way. Same applies to almost all equipment in almost every application. Just my opinion.
Hydraulics are much improved in M vs E as well. The loader cycles quickly. If presented with the same choice I would buy the M again even with the considerable price difference.
If you’re debating between the two there is no doubt you’ll regret the 5095 but you might regret the 5075. I’m making assumptions for what the tractor will be used for. Just applying my generalized logic to your scenario. I’m sure there are numerous pros and cons for each. Good luck!
@@firstgenfarmer9809 you mean not regret the 5095? I am managing a hobby farm 26 acres, Have opportunity for much more if i want. would like to do some 4 row crops, do you do any row cropping with yours?
Quick question for you on the E12 Cutter . I've got a 4066m do you think it will handle the 12 foot cutter ? I need to cut 134 acres . Any advice would be much appreciated .
I'll give my opinion. I had a MX8 half-hitch model when I had a 4052r and that cutter would push the tractor around when I turned and generally felt heavy for the tractor. However, it would run the cutter. If you follow my channel you know I'm convinced the cooling system is undersized on the 4 series tractors as mine would constantly over heat in the summer. Running that 8' cutter would cause the coolant temperature to slowly climb until the gauge showed close to red. I would then idle the tractor for 5 mins or so and let it cool down and go again. The radiator was clean and I always kept debris off the tractor. I found that to be unacceptable!. Compare that to a 5 series that on the hottest day under load never operates above it's normal coolant temperature. I'm mildly concerned you will feel like the cutter is oversized for your tractor but I'm very concerned that if you cut in heat (>90 degrees) that you will have an overheating issue. Not trying to be negative about the four series. Mine was generally a good machine other than the cooling issues. Hope this helps.
Yeah I was kind of wondering about the overheating issue . I'll have to transport the 4066m to TN from TX to do the cutting over the next few years ( maybe two cuts ) . I did not feel comfortable transporting a 5 series ( 8k) over 1200 miles . Maybe I can swing the 5 series in a few years after I have a Pole Barn built . I appreciate the good advice and first hand experience , thanks for all the content your putting out as well . Take care .
I am looking at buying a 5075E and E12. I would be using the E12 as a finish mower as well. I have 40 acres that I would mow every 3-4 weeks. I am currently mowing 15 of my 40 acres with a JD Z950R zero turn. Would like to keep the land clean and tidy. Have you tried putting a sharper edge on the blades for a better cut. Being that your not cutting tall grass or saplings, you could get away with sharp blades. I like your videos, keep making them. Would like to see more on cut quality of E12. One more thing.... Are you cutting in a 540e mode?
I am using the blades that came on the cutter. I find they cut surprisingly well. However, I occasionally use it more aggressively on saplings, sticks, etc.
I'd love to see an instructional video on removing and reattaching the bucket/loader. One person. I'm a 5075 rookie and would feel better using the tractor for mowing and punching holes with that big bucket in the way.
Well I just bought a new e 12 and having nothing but hell out of its leaving two strips of grass with new blades I’m using a 70 horse John Deere and dealer won’t help me figure out why it does this
I'd push harder on your dealer! I've had bumps in the road with dealers and my experience has been that if you are persistent and reasonable they will finally resolve your issue. Are you talking to the dealership GM? If they own multiple dealerships get the person the GMs report to. I've done this and it works!
Yeah I don’t understand this thing either , I’ve leveled it in every way , but it always leaves a strip on the right ride side of the middle deck , it will even do it on the wings as well sometimes
@@firstgenfarmer9809 I sure would appreciate it man , I’ve been asking around in forums , and someone asked me if I had the correct blade size , when I looked at them the all look about the same size
Found the problem on my e 12 leaving strips had to widen the back tires because back tires were exactly lined up with the wing hinges which was running down grass before mower suction could cut it
My John Deere zero turn was designed to fail from factory...fuel filter from weed Wacker...pop can sized air filter on a nearly 30hp v twin...the Briggs on it blew oil pan gaskets from a bad casting...total nightmare.
I just bought an e12 and it’s all your fault! Clearly your videos helped me with my decision, great job 👏 and I’m looking forward to my experiences with this tool. Thank you for your work
That's awesome! You won't regret it!
Nice job with your John Deere tractor I have a two series tractor a 2038R John Deere tractor I always love John Deere they do such a great job and I love mine I have the turbo diesel in mine and it’s about 40 hp does everything I wanted to do I just joined your channel great video
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
I have an old JD 1518 batwing, but I added a third hose so I can work the wings independently of each other. For around ponds and banks it makes it real nice tipping one side up or down as needed. Since you have a third scv, something to consider.
Not a bad idea! Thanks for the comment!
Two options u would really like would be the fender buttons to raise and lower the 3 point hitch arms. And the other would be the Fender mounted PTO switch to assist in aligning the shaft with what you’re hooking up. Got both on mine and they save a lot of time and aggravation.
Agree that would be nice!
Grease ever day saves $$$$$
Thanks for all the informative videos. How many acres are you maintaining and any idea how many acres you use the zero turn on vs the batwing?
I have about 13 acres to cut in total. I use my batwing for as much as I can. I get as close to the house as I can which leaves tight places and up along my road front. To answer your question I would guess the split to be 11 batwing and 2 zero turn.
Nice tractor and nice mower , we mow grass over 24" high with x500 lawn tractor thats thick as crap, there was no thick stuff in there LOL
ok ok
So what made you pick the the 5075m over the 5075e, there is about $30K difference
The E series would have been fine. However, when I can I prefer to buy equipment rated beyond the application for which it will be used. For example, if I’m towing 10,000 lbs I don’t want a truck rated to haul 10,000 lbs. I want one rated for 15,000 lbs. in my experience that greatly changes the towing experience in a positive way. Same applies to almost all equipment in almost every application. Just my opinion.
@@firstgenfarmer9809 I agree I am looking at the 5075 or 5095, worth the extra quality to me as well
Hydraulics are much improved in M vs E as well. The loader cycles quickly. If presented with the same choice I would buy the M again even with the considerable price difference.
If you’re debating between the two there is no doubt you’ll regret the 5095 but you might regret the 5075. I’m making assumptions for what the tractor will be used for. Just applying my generalized logic to your scenario. I’m sure there are numerous pros and cons for each. Good luck!
@@firstgenfarmer9809 you mean not regret the 5095? I am managing a hobby farm 26 acres, Have opportunity for much more if i want. would like to do some 4 row crops, do you do any row cropping with yours?
Quick question for you on the E12 Cutter . I've got a 4066m do you think it will handle the 12 foot cutter ? I need to cut 134 acres . Any advice would be much appreciated .
I'll give my opinion. I had a MX8 half-hitch model when I had a 4052r and that cutter would push the tractor around when I turned and generally felt heavy for the tractor. However, it would run the cutter. If you follow my channel you know I'm convinced the cooling system is undersized on the 4 series tractors as mine would constantly over heat in the summer. Running that 8' cutter would cause the coolant temperature to slowly climb until the gauge showed close to red. I would then idle the tractor for 5 mins or so and let it cool down and go again. The radiator was clean and I always kept debris off the tractor. I found that to be unacceptable!. Compare that to a 5 series that on the hottest day under load never operates above it's normal coolant temperature.
I'm mildly concerned you will feel like the cutter is oversized for your tractor but I'm very concerned that if you cut in heat (>90 degrees) that you will have an overheating issue.
Not trying to be negative about the four series. Mine was generally a good machine other than the cooling issues.
Hope this helps.
Yeah I was kind of wondering about the overheating issue . I'll have to transport the 4066m to TN from TX to do the cutting over the next few years ( maybe two cuts ) . I did not feel comfortable transporting a 5 series ( 8k) over 1200 miles . Maybe I can swing the 5 series in a few years after I have a Pole Barn built . I appreciate the good advice and first hand experience , thanks for all the content your putting out as well . Take care .
John deere should pay you for these demo videos. I just bought an e12 after that badass tutorial.
Thanks for the compliment and for watching the channel!
Do you know if the 5075m is a 4 cylinder? Seems like a longer bonnet than a 5075e has but hard to tell from videos. Thanks
It has a 3 cylinder 2.9L engine
Mine is a 2020. There could be a change in the newer models
I am looking at buying a 5075E and E12. I would be using the E12 as a finish mower as well. I have 40 acres that I would mow every 3-4 weeks. I am currently mowing 15 of my 40 acres with a JD Z950R zero turn. Would like to keep the land clean and tidy. Have you tried putting a sharper edge on the blades for a better cut. Being that your not cutting tall grass or saplings, you could get away with sharp blades. I like your videos, keep making them. Would like to see more on cut quality of E12. One more thing.... Are you cutting in a 540e mode?
I am using the blades that came on the cutter. I find they cut surprisingly well. However, I occasionally use it more aggressively on saplings, sticks, etc.
I always use ePTO. Plenty of power for the cutter in that mode.
The blade tip speed is higher on the E12 I think.
Higher than which other product?
I'd love to see an instructional video on removing and reattaching the bucket/loader. One person. I'm a 5075 rookie and would feel better using the tractor for mowing and punching holes with that big bucket in the way.
Just the bucket or the loader? I never remove my loader to mow but I do drop the bucket.
Both. The loader-bucket assembly. @@firstgenfarmer9809
Well I just bought a new e 12 and having nothing but hell out of its leaving two strips of grass with new blades I’m using a 70 horse John Deere and dealer won’t help me figure out why it does this
I'd push harder on your dealer! I've had bumps in the road with dealers and my experience has been that if you are persistent and reasonable they will finally resolve your issue.
Are you talking to the dealership GM? If they own multiple dealerships get the person the GMs report to. I've done this and it works!
Yeah I don’t understand this thing either , I’ve leveled it in every way , but it always leaves a strip on the right ride side of the middle deck , it will even do it on the wings as well sometimes
@@cytukyl713 I'll use my soon and I'll put up a video of the results from cutting thick tall grass. I'll include speed etc.
@@firstgenfarmer9809 I sure would appreciate it man , I’ve been asking around in forums , and someone asked me if I had the correct blade size , when I looked at them the all look about the same size
Found the problem on my e 12 leaving strips had to widen the back tires because back tires were exactly lined up with the wing hinges which was running down grass before mower suction could cut it
My John Deere zero turn was designed to fail from factory...fuel filter from weed Wacker...pop can sized air filter on a nearly 30hp v twin...the Briggs on it blew oil pan gaskets from a bad casting...total nightmare.
My z930 zero turn has been rock solid. Owned for three years and not one issue and my son drives it like he didn't pay for it!
Mine has the 25hp kawasaki. Again, I've been very happy with it.
That's good. We drive mostly Ventrac...so we're used to zero issues.
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A price more less on 5075M
Can you be more specific? Are you asking what I paid?