Still relevant 6 years later, the advice about the outer debonair-can rotating independently was clutch, I actually had to slide my debonair outer-can off first and grip the inner-can to remove it.
Thanks for the how to man. I just completed this. Smoothly enough. After some research though I used Slick Honey instead of the RockShox brand grease and also used the Slick Honey to lube the inside on the air can instead of the Maxima oil. The tip with the tube to get the can off was the only way I could get mine to break loose.
just been following the procedure on sram pdf. it says that you use 2 shots of 15/50 oil. 0.5ml in the can below the piston and 0.5ml above the piston as you did. have you missed a step out? and how come you only use 0.3ml? other than that confusing point a good video.
I tried to do this and I don't know what I am doing wrong. I could only get the upper schrader valve off and deflate it and also the lower negative schrader valve off but, I couldn't open the can. So, after an hour of swearing, I gave up and put it all back together, I saw oil coming out of the negative schrader valve as I was attempting to take it apart, is that normal? and without taking the damper body apart to replace the oil inside, I repressurized the can with the shox adapter to 250psi, then covered it and put the upper schrader valve back inside and pressure it up to set my 30% sag. Went for a ride and the entire bike was bouncy and there was oil leaking on the shox stanchion. What it going on? It's a Monarch R, it only has rebound function and it doesn't matter which way I clicked, the kangaroo or the turtle symbol it felt the same! the rebound just felt like it gave up! please help.
wth, my monarch shock doesn't have that little side can thingy..... also didn't say anything about pumping up the negative air chamber and how to do that, super hard to do and not let any air out.
Hey MBR - Can someone comment on if we're supposed to put 0.5ml of oil below and 0.5 above the piston like the service manual says, or do like your video?
Stripping my shock down, I've noticed on my Monarch RT there are some holes at the bottom of the air chamber, so if you place oil below the piston, no doubt it will piss out. When or IF you can take the outer can off, have a check if you have any holes in yours! hope this helps?
Hey Al bet vid on doing this I found , Thanks my only issue is that it requires 0 effort to screw the piston and cannister back together , yours is definitely under pressure .is my piston done?
My shock is slightly different but the principle was still the same and I was successful in stripping and cleaning. HOWEVER, how do I go about changing the oil in the damper chamber? I am hearing a squidging noise?? thanks
Funny that he didnt took out the air from the small oil chamber...its not enough to just empty the main. Mine blasted of like bullet from a gun with bang due to some left over air. Yes the main was completly empty of air.
In my service manual (Monarch RT3 2013) and also on SRAMs video, they say to release the IFP pressure ("nitrogen/air port cap"), and also to remove the Schrader valves from aircan and IFP before removing aircan. Is this different for the one you're working on? I only want to do the basic aircan service...
Thx. I guess you'll understand why I'm hesitant to do so, here's from sram's service manual: "3 Use a Schrader valve tool to remove the air/nitrogen port cap. Use a small hex wrench or pick to depress the Schrader valve and release all air/nitrogen pressure from the damper. Once the pressure has been released, depress the Schrader valve a second time. If the Schrader valve is able to move, the shock has been completely depressurized. CAUTION - EYE HAZARD Verify all pressure is removed from the shock before proceeding. Failure to do so can cause the damper body to separate from the shaft eyelet at a high velocity. Wear safety glasses."
Yet I can't see why one shouldn't be able to remove aircan without releasing ifp-pressure, looking at the exploded picture of the rear shock... I'll take your advice, thank you :-)
it says 0.5ml below and 0.5 above the piston, is that correct or am i reading it wrong? sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/nDBwhMSrzDKP6dnZ3N6Cxk1hFLOz_vJPjrh2ICfGyM0/mtime:1429308129/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004932_rev_a_2016_monarch_rt3_r_service_manual.pdf
Hi there, so I took my Monarch Plus RC3 apart tonight, there’s a small seal that goes below the washer and fits around the 10mm shaft... Unfortunately mine was split and fell off of the shaft. My 50hr service kit didn’t come with one of these, do I need to take the air spring off to replace it? Any idea what o-ring kit would contain it?
Came here looking for this comment. Exactly the same problem, service kit I purchased doesn't contain the small seal either. How did you overcome this? Can it be purchased separately? Thanks
@@WoodyMTB87. Hey Mark, I ended up gluing the o-ring back together until the damper service, with Loctite 406. Apparently a new o-ring is included in the full damper service kit. So far I think it’s held together ok. Haven’t heard and clunks or anything on bottom out! Loctite 406 is specially made for gluing o-rings together. I recommend snipping the ends of the old one slightly to get a nice clean bonding surface. And for the love of god, glue it back together on the shaft!! 😂
i have it open and it says 0.5ml below and 0.5 above the piston. sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/nDBwhMSrzDKP6dnZ3N6Cxk1hFLOz_vJPjrh2ICfGyM0/mtime:1429308129/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004932_rev_a_2016_monarch_rt3_r_service_manual.pdf
Wear gloves to protect your hands, and glasses to protect your eyes, but don't worry about me, nothing can ever go wrong on camera. Trade your safety equipment for a camera, and save yourself from having to wear annoying stuff like glasses and gloves. :)
My lbs wants £75 for it I don't think it's worth £90 When you can get the full damper service for £105 by sending it off to tf tuned or j tech suspension
I was hoping this would be a full tutorial on how to change out the damper fluid and refill the IFP as well. No where in the service manual does it say to only replace the air seals without doing a full service, so why make this video?
in 12 months I've warrantied 3 monarchs because of that same 'clunk' and am now on my fourth, and will probably warranty the latest in a month or two when the 'clunk' reappears. I will NEVER buy another rockshox shock again!
norco range a7.1, 25 - 50 miles a week. quick a few big drops, I ride Snowdonia in North West Wales so it's pretty rocky. never done my own maintenance. took the shock back to evans cycles, they sent it away, rockshox just warrantied them every time. I think there is a fault with the monarch as every rider I know with this shock has had the same problem. I think rockshox have stopped making it because of this problem.
@flexible Definitions, what year/model is that E29 and what monarch is it ? I have a '14 E29 sworks that came with the cane creek DB air, which broke a shaft and I replaced with '15/16 Monarch+ rc3 debonair which has worked great for 3+ year (send for full rebuild now) but considering the slacker 17 or 18 models of the E29 which have the monarch (not sure about the ohlins)
I always use wooden toothpicks. They do the job and i don't have to worry about scratching anything.
Good Idea!
SUPER
the servicing went exactly like you said. My Monarch rt3 is working like new. you saved me 200$. thanks for teaching me to fish
Still relevant 6 years later, the advice about the outer debonair-can rotating independently was clutch, I actually had to slide my debonair outer-can off first and grip the inner-can to remove it.
Thanks so much! Truly helps demystify shock servicing!
so you think mine is due for a service? it's been almost 4 years lol!
Thanks for the how to man. I just completed this. Smoothly enough. After some research though I used Slick Honey instead of the RockShox brand grease and also used the Slick Honey to lube the inside on the air can instead of the Maxima oil. The tip with the tube to get the can off was the only way I could get mine to break loose.
why did you do that?
just been following the procedure on sram pdf. it says that you use 2 shots of 15/50 oil. 0.5ml in the can below the piston and 0.5ml above the piston as you did. have you missed a step out? and how come you only use 0.3ml? other than that confusing point a good video.
Hey! Could you give me the link to that pdf please?
I think you can download it from Sram´s webpage
i notice the same thing....
Very good!! Great video.Could you show us CCDB Inline service?? Thanks
It's beautiful. I've completed 150 psi air. When it moves, it's air-cold. When the suspension doesn't move, it doesn't miss air.
Can the dynamic seal grease be replaced with the sram butter grease?
I can do almost anything with my bike, but shox were always my nemesis ;p thx great video
So this is just a seal change? How long do the seals usually last....
I tried to do this and I don't know what I am doing wrong.
I could only get the upper schrader valve off and deflate it and also the lower negative schrader valve off but, I couldn't open the can.
So, after an hour of swearing, I gave up and put it all back together, I saw oil coming out of the negative schrader valve as I was attempting to take it apart, is that normal? and without taking the damper body apart to replace the oil inside, I repressurized the can with the shox adapter to 250psi, then covered it and put the upper schrader valve back inside and pressure it up to set my 30% sag. Went for a ride and the entire bike was bouncy and there was oil leaking on the shox stanchion. What it going on? It's a Monarch R, it only has rebound function and it doesn't matter which way I clicked, the kangaroo or the turtle symbol it felt the same! the rebound just felt like it gave up! please help.
Do you know which seal would cause all the oil to come out of the air valve?
wth, my monarch shock doesn't have that little side can thingy..... also didn't say anything about pumping up the negative air chamber and how to do that, super hard to do and not let any air out.
Hey MBR - Can someone comment on if we're supposed to put 0.5ml of oil below and 0.5 above the piston like the service manual says, or do like your video?
Stripping my shock down, I've noticed on my Monarch RT there are some holes at the bottom of the air chamber, so if you place oil below the piston, no doubt it will piss out. When or IF you can take the outer can off, have a check if you have any holes in yours! hope this helps?
Hey Al bet vid on doing this I found , Thanks my only issue is that it requires 0 effort to screw the piston and cannister back together , yours is definitely under pressure .is my piston done?
My shock is slightly different but the principle was still the same and I was successful in stripping and cleaning. HOWEVER, how do I go about changing the oil in the damper chamber? I am hearing a squidging noise?? thanks
Funny that he didnt took out the air from the small oil chamber...its not enough to just empty the main. Mine blasted of like bullet from a gun with bang due to some left over air. Yes the main was completly empty of air.
yeah i noticed the same thing wasn't till i checked the manual that i relized he hadn't mentioned it.
glad to read your comment. I will now stop watching videos and start reading manuals first
Thanks for the great tips, cheers
I have Rockshoxs monarch plus RC3 besides I can add volume spacers can I also add bottomless rings and do i just use motor oil grade 5w/50 😊
Are you sure about the 0.3ml of oil? If that’s a 10ml syringe it looked more like 3ml.
Btw why dont you change the damper oil and seals too? Its the same interval with the air can seals
How would you rate the R vs the RC3?
Excellent video!
In my service manual (Monarch RT3 2013) and also on SRAMs video, they say to release the IFP pressure ("nitrogen/air port cap"), and also to remove the Schrader valves from aircan and IFP before removing aircan. Is this different for the one you're working on? I only want to do the basic aircan service...
Terje Dypfest Don't release the IFP pressure, it's a right pain to recharge and you need a special adaptor.
Thx. I guess you'll understand why I'm hesitant to do so, here's from sram's service manual: "3 Use a Schrader valve tool to remove the air/nitrogen port cap. Use a small hex wrench or pick to depress the Schrader valve and release all air/nitrogen pressure from the damper. Once the pressure has been released, depress the Schrader valve a second time. If the Schrader valve is able to move, the shock has been completely depressurized. CAUTION - EYE HAZARD Verify all pressure is removed from the shock before proceeding. Failure to do so can cause the damper body to separate from the shaft eyelet at a high velocity. Wear safety glasses."
Yet I can't see why one shouldn't be able to remove aircan without releasing ifp-pressure, looking at the exploded picture of the rear shock... I'll take your advice, thank you :-)
it says 0.5ml below and 0.5 above the piston, is that correct or am i reading it wrong? sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/nDBwhMSrzDKP6dnZ3N6Cxk1hFLOz_vJPjrh2ICfGyM0/mtime:1429308129/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004932_rev_a_2016_monarch_rt3_r_service_manual.pdf
I read it the same as you, on page 31, 2 and 3
Hi there, so I took my Monarch Plus RC3 apart tonight, there’s a small seal that goes below the washer and fits around the 10mm shaft... Unfortunately mine was split and fell off of the shaft. My 50hr service kit didn’t come with one of these, do I need to take the air spring off to replace it? Any idea what o-ring kit would contain it?
Came here looking for this comment. Exactly the same problem, service kit I purchased doesn't contain the small seal either.
How did you overcome this? Can it be purchased separately?
Thanks
@@WoodyMTB87. Hey Mark, I ended up gluing the o-ring back together until the damper service, with Loctite 406. Apparently a new o-ring is included in the full damper service kit. So far I think it’s held together ok. Haven’t heard and clunks or anything on bottom out! Loctite 406 is specially made for gluing o-rings together. I recommend snipping the ends of the old one slightly to get a nice clean bonding surface. And for the love of god, glue it back together on the shaft!! 😂
great help thank!
Hi, my Floodgate screw fell out today along with a small ball bearing. How do I put them back,does anyone know please? I have a Monarch 3.1
Whats in the spray bottle again?
Can anyone confirm if you are still meant to put oil in the can before pushing on or just grease it as per this video?
What about the IFP pressure?
where can you get a small bottle of 15w 50 oil? Buying i litre for 30 quid seems silly when you only need 0.3 ml...
andrew pages, 1 litre of mobil 1 15/50 synthetic is 9 quid.
Some service kits come with small amount of grease & oil
Great explained, Thanks ;-)!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice Video MBR magazine, keep up the good work ! :)
hi I have a x fusion vector air do you know anything about this shock....?
Is the green bumper a bottomless ring. I.e. is that where you add those rings?
+David Buchanan yep thats where you add the bottomless tokens
David Buchanan the green bumper is like a bump stop. For hard bottom outs I believe. The bottomless rings go inside the sleeve.
Im have a tab open with a sram document and i quote the amount of oil for the air can is 3ml not 0.3.
i have it open and it says 0.5ml below and 0.5 above the piston. sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/nDBwhMSrzDKP6dnZ3N6Cxk1hFLOz_vJPjrh2ICfGyM0/mtime:1429308129/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004932_rev_a_2016_monarch_rt3_r_service_manual.pdf
no oil refill in piggy bag?
is an alternative oli to replace maxima 15w50?
How does it work for the Vivid Air R2C?
Wear gloves to protect your hands, and glasses to protect your eyes, but don't worry about me, nothing can ever go wrong on camera.
Trade your safety equipment for a camera, and save yourself from having to wear annoying stuff like glasses and gloves. :)
LBS wants £90 for this, is that reasonable?
My lbs wants £75 for it
I don't think it's worth £90
When you can get the full damper service for £105 by sending it off to tf tuned or j tech suspension
I have a RockShox Monarch 3.1 Rear Shock how often should I service it, i do about 60km a week.
+Davehiphop At least once a month until you can figure to go longer between services.
According to the manual, probably twice a ride.
You wont be able to screw the can by hand with the debonair...little oil inside the can before you slide it half way and than the last bit of oil.
I was hoping this would be a full tutorial on how to change out the damper fluid and refill the IFP as well. No where in the service manual does it say to only replace the air seals without doing a full service, so why make this video?
What do you do if the lock out on the shok isn't working and gives a clunk thing when compressed it is a rockshox Monarch RT with debonair
in 12 months I've warrantied 3 monarchs because of that same 'clunk' and am now on my fourth, and will probably warranty the latest in a month or two when the 'clunk' reappears. I will NEVER buy another rockshox shock again!
norco range a7.1, 25 - 50 miles a week. quick a few big drops, I ride Snowdonia in North West Wales so it's pretty rocky. never done my own maintenance. took the shock back to evans cycles, they sent it away, rockshox just warrantied them every time. I think there is a fault with the monarch as every rider I know with this shock has had the same problem. I think rockshox have stopped making it because of this problem.
@flexible Definitions, what year/model is that E29 and what monarch is it ? I have a '14 E29 sworks that came with the cane creek DB air, which broke a shaft and I replaced with '15/16 Monarch+ rc3 debonair which has worked great for 3+ year (send for full rebuild now) but considering the slacker 17 or 18 models of the E29 which have the monarch (not sure about the ohlins)
what does the 50 in the 15w 50 oil mean?
Sorry, late reply, guess nobody knows it but for your answer, 50: it's the viscosity of the oil, lesser than 50 means lighter, higher means thicker.
can i use fox float fluid to this shock?
Yes
my air can won't twist off only the sleeve will come off. what do I do?
take the sleeve off and then twist on whats behind the sleeve
This is not the full service. Only 50 hour service.
Pro Tip: Don't be ham-fisted as in this video. Take a bit of care pulling the outer sleeve on and off or you might damages edges or seal seats.
any response????
Great video..can i be your son lol
This is a helpful video, but dificult hear, a wireless mic or boom mic closer to his mouth would help a lot.
Should be called "how to remove the RockShox Air Can and Replace a Couple, but not all of the seals". Useless for a true air can service...
Does this work the same way with a Monarch RT3 (non debonair)?
My shock is different to the model in this video, but it still pulls apart the same I have the Monarch RT