Since you asked, don't pound on the chainring, you are putting uneeeded wear/strain on BB bearings. Put a little grease on the tapered square axle shaft and also on all screw threads, including the tool. The outer screw will tighten the chainring. This will prevent any corrosion, and make it easier to remove next time. Be careful, the crank threads are easy to cross-thread and strip if you are not careful.
Great video. Exactly what I needed to see. I have a new ebike with 20" wheels and a 40 tooth crank wheel in front. The bike will supposedly go up to 28 but at 15 mph I am ghost pedaling. So I found a 48 tooth crank wheel to replace it with and will add a longer chain to make it fit good. Judging from what you did here I will be much better off with a 48 tooth. Can't wait to try it. I'll be having my local bike shop do this upgrade!
This one needs a few points of correction. Don't really need to replace the crankarm, easier to just swap chainring. You don't even have to take the pedal off to swap chainrings. If for some reason you do replace crankarm then you should have mentioned that crankarms come in different lengths. Don't hammer the crankarm onto the shaft. That can cause bearing damage known as brinnelling. Tighten the crankarm at the bolt. Ride for very short distance and retighten.
The funny thing here is that he even put text in the video along the lines of “you could probably tighten the bolt to seat it.” I was getting ready to comment on the video there until I saw the text. I didn’t know the part about hammering potentially causing damage though, thank you for sharing that detail.
Glad you said it. I was about to. Never beat or hammer an arm. Use the extraction tool to remove the crank or reinstall by press-fit using existing axle nut or bolt.
@@jtnoodle sometimes have to, I used angle grinder to remove my crank set once but as didn't do maintenance every so often so they sort of rusted together, even self extracting bolts failed
@@mlee6050 one time I used a tie rod puller to get the left arm off a cheap Kmart girls bike, all steel components, the normal bike puller would've stripped some threads, even the tie rod puller had a hard time
Upgrade chainrings for some bikes are diffcult to find and then produce little improvement. Freewheel upgrade produces dramatic improvement. Plan it when time to change/rotate tires and brake maintenance. Add brake rotor upgrade if desired.
My Himiway Escape Pro would definitely benefit from this. Anything above 17mph or so and my pedals feel like the chain fell off. Love ebikes but I'm pretty new to the mechanical side of things and learning as I go. Going to pick up one of these soon. thank you.
I'm right there with you on this. I have a Narrada folding ebike with 20" tires and a 40 tooth front ring. Anything above 15mps and it feels like chain fell off. I don't want to use throttle unless I have to. Much prefer to pedal and "feel" the pedals. I'm having my bike shop order a 48 tooth and a longer chain. I'm hoping this will work perfectly.
Got 56 tooth on my hyper scorpion and will put the hyper 62 tooth. Should get around to that early next year. Thanks for this didn’t think it was that easy cool.
I have a Himiway Zebra Step-Thru and when I looked at mine I saw that a bigger chainring would hit so I went with the up graded 11-28 tooth cassette and it works great for me and it was super easy because the upgraded motor on the Zebra has the wires coming out the disc brake side between the hub and the frame and is a much better design and easier to take apart because mine 4mm allen head screws and you can use that tool on it too, It was the best upgrade for the money on the Zebra, the chain ring is 46Tooth and I have plenty of peddle lift at 25MPH but I have not got the color display yet but I never go that fast anymore anyways because I am getting old, But back in the day😎😎👍👍
I changed the freewheel on my lectric folding bike.. total cost was $40 for the freewheel and the tool and it was very easy for me but I'm a retired mechanic.... I ride in the hills so I want the low low gear and the high high gear... 😄
I changed my rear sprocket on my Lectric 2.0 to the 11/28 but I would also like to know if anyone has added a bigger front sprocket. Mine will still ghost pedal at higher speeds. I would like to change the front one to so I get more top gearing.
I got the cobra based on your great reviews, love the demos and instructions. Rode it last night after doing adjustable goose neck. At 44 tooth it seems to ghost pedal and thoughts on 50 tooth on that?
main reason to do back gear over chain ring is this ....Ground Clearance ...if you got something like Rad Runner 1 there very low to gound and larger chain ring dont leave much room on 20inch wheel ...so in that case rear gear can be better option but harder one
@@trini_boi2414 I am going to swap my 40 tooth for a 48 tooth on my Narrada folding eBike with 20" tires. I hate ghost pedaling and I'm getting that at 15 mph currently on a bike that will go 28 mph. Hoping it works perfectly.
@@CurtisSimpson I just swapped my 46 to a 52 and boy what a difference..no more Ghost peddling and I'm hitting speeds up to 30 mph now..the funny thing I heard it would be harder to pedal without battery power ..well for me it's the opposite my peddling is way more easier now without battery power..
Great idea (maybe). I subscribe but I think you should do a follow up. I don't know the answer so you should really address the limitations on hill climbing. You just rode flats. We have modest hills and a few short/steep ones. I hate the ghost pedaling, but would I get stuck on a hill? . I have an Lectric 2.0 and bought the freewheel and $10 tool. Haven't felt like doing the work nor drag it to a bike shop so great idea but a bit scary as well. Keep up the good work!
I have a 40 tooth on my eBike with 20" tires. I'm always riding in 7th gear (shimano) even in PAS 1 so I have all those gears I can use once I add the larger front ring. right now the bike is geared for 0-15mph but I want more :)
I did it the hard way with an 11 tooth freewheel only because I put a new motor on my Himiway cruiser. Either way you get rid of the ghost pedaling but at least on the Himiway, the motor assist still cuts out at 28.6 MPH due to the speed limiter. So besides using a KD 718 display with either set up, I would be interested to find other ways to eliminate the set top end on most e-bike motors.
Did you actually try using the freewheel tool? I’ve removed 3 freewheels off Ebike hubs, the Juliette plug passes through the tool easily. Push the new crank on by hand, then tighten the crank screw, no need to hammer. The problem with only changing the crankset is that you have made first gear harder, so when you really need to assist the bike on hills… That’s why changing the freewheel to an 11-32 spread is better, helps stop ghost peddling at speed and makes it easier for you to assist on the hills, win win 👍
I agree. I changed my front sprocket to a 52 tooth by buying just the sprocket it was around $25.00 on Amazon. You have to make sure to buy the replacement that fits the bolt pattern on the crank set. Made a great difference but to get to the total effect change the freewheel to a 11 x 34 tooth.
The Julet connector fits through some tools, but the version he had was made for a socket wrench. I had the Bolton tool and loaned it to a Rad employee, and I ended up buying something similar on Amazon that worked fine. I graduated to the L10 connector instead since then.
The version I have is for a socket too, the Juliette connector fits through it easily, I’ve just watched this video again, that’s exactly the tool I have, the Juliette will fit through there no problem. The freewheel change is by far the better option, for the reasons I outlined in my post above…
Great video Bryan! I would like to add to look at the frame before ordering the new crank to make sure the bike frame does not get in the way . Just watched another video of someone trying to put a 52tooth on a himaway zebra but the crank hit the frame and would not fit. But definitely a worth wild upgrade thanks!
Yes, I watched that video and it maid me happy because I was right because I wanted to go with a bigger chain ring and I saw it was to close and I did not know if they made one that would work and they may make one but I went with the 11-28 tooth cassette on my Zebra and with upgraded motor the wire is on the disc brake side and comes out between the hub and frame much better and can easily use the cassette tool on it!
@@mikemymail7044 I put a 11-28 tooth cassette on my and it works great because I saw how close the 46t chain ring was and I was right because someone made a video of it and he could not do it, and then I saw this video and he had a 52tooth chain ring on his zebra so I asked him and he told me how and gave me the like to buy the 52tooth chain ring only $27.00 so read the comments that I and he made ruclips.net/video/2Aa_we4Ok7k/видео.html and here is the video of the fail 52 tooth ruclips.net/video/6MXPgRsK2bg/видео.html
I thought of doing the same upgrade to my Ride1Up Core-5. It's at 44T now. A 52T should do the trick and allow me to get 31mph (50kph), which is the maximum limit speed for PAS with a KD21C display. If there's an alternative display that will remove the 20mph throttle limit for this bike, then I'll do that upgrade as well. My current top pedaling speed at on a short downhill underpass is 33.1mph. On a flat road in the hot summer, it's 29+mph.
Is there a chainring upgrade for the Magicycle on Amazon that I can purchase. If so can you post the link so I can purchase. Love to fix that ghost peddling issue. Love ur videos. They have helped me so much... Gil
Good upgrade, and I'm sure you can imagine how useless the stock chainring is on a 40mph RadMini! The crank arm should be reinstalled using the bolt though. You never want to use a hammer or mallet on a component with bearings.
@@helenHTID You can't just buy a 40mph radmini. You would have to get one and then modify it with a new hub motor, battery, and controller to go that fast. If you want a folding bike that is already fast when you buy it your best bet is the Amp Rides Volt DS. It will do 35mph stock. And it comes with a huge 56x11 top gear that let's you pedal at high speeds.
Hmmmmmm.....I'm wondering if euphree will go with this larger crank for 2024 since they have it in stock. Also I wonder if the 2024's will have a 750w hub instead of the 500w. Maybe we'll wait and see.
You really shouldn't beat on that because there's bearings in the bottom bracket. All you really need to do is put the Allen bolt on it and tighten it and it will pull it down. You should never beat on anything with bearings in it. You probably won't hurt it but that's not the right way to do it. You asked 😁
I had the same issue. I changed mine to a 11t-28t. It solved my ghost pedaling. I have resistance all the way through, even at 28+ mph. I also have a 52t front chainring as well.
Only the chainring swap was needed, not the crank arms. And an easier way to get that new crank on there is to just tighten. Never hammer. And for the best pedal feel, replace the freewheel as well with an 11-34t. For anyone going up steep hills or starting out on thick grass..., we gotta have the bigger 1st gear, especially if we've put on a bigger chainring.
The throttle is all you need for starting off on any surface. As for steep hills, Do you really need a 34? You should be helping with speed when riding up inclines on a hub motor so not to bog it down.
Hey Brian, another great video. Still waiting for the range test on the Magicycle Ocelot Pro Pas 3 would be great. Would like to have info before ordering one , for black Friday deal if possible. Thanks Brian
Hey citizen, just a quick question. On the himiway zebra, couldn't you just away out everything for a 1000 watt bafang hub kit. I think it's the same 175mm drop out. It would get rid of the speed limiter for good wouldn't it and get more power
@@CitizenCycle925 do you know what kind of connectors the stock battery uses. Plus I would rather have a bafang than there own motor. Bafang is the way to go plus so many more options. A 2k bike is nothing to a 500 dollar upgrade.
Basically, all e-bikes are set up to assume you are a competitive grade spinner (ie. greater than 100 RPMs) on anything over level 2 (out of 5) pedal assist. Even worse, all e-bikes come standard with clipless pedals which are the worst pedals for spinning.
On a certain road that I ride, there's always a patrol-car sitting off to the left in a parking-lot. I do ride fast(but safe!) when I'm out. I know the bush he/she hides behind, so I start my ghost-pedaling. I always feel like such an idiot, and I know how absurd I must look. I always laugh and hope that no one else sees this!
Oh my.. My bike came with a 11-34 and 52 front.. I guess I'm lucky ..But guys are buying a 56 front . you don't usually get a double sided guard though. So you lose that protection.
@@NelsonKNelson deleted the last comment after rewinding the video and seeing the chainring bolts. That said, I still wouldn’t say this video is “wrong.” He had a goal, he took steps that achieved that goal. Yes, there was another way to accomplish it with less waste, but then he would have needed even more tools (chainring nut tool), and it wouldn’t work with all bikes. There are chainrings out there that are completely integrated with the crank arm that can’t be replaced separately. This is still valid content.
@@GreySim I think Citizen has one of the best and most useful ebike channels. But this is the first time I can't thumbs up. The only useful info provided was that higher gearing helps at higher speeds and most people already know that. He shouldn't have made changing crankarms his first option, he didn't let people know that crankarms come in different lengths, and he hammered his crank bearings. It was a good idea for a video but not good information. Everybody strikes out sometimes, Citizen was just having a weak day at the plate.
@@jimmyjames8736 fair enough. I actually removed my own thumbs up in consideration of all these points. Something nobody else has even touched on so far is the chain length too. Seems like it worked out okay for him so far, but someone following this with too short of a chain (edit: and/or making too big of a tooth count jump) is liable to damage their derailleur.
@@GreySim Citizen did at least bring up chain length in the video but he said it just usually works out. Woulda been nice if he mentioned to shift into largest rear sprocket and check tensioner cage angle but I cut him slack on that one since he at least realized that it could be a problem.
You will seriously regret changing the gearing on an ebike WHEN you run out of battery and have to pedal it back to wherever you came from... FWIW - have you ever fallen on a bicycle doing ~28MPH? You'll know it WHEN (not if) you do...
@@tenncutt people don’t want to shift a bike. They have fond memories of shifting a bike and it just clunks and grinds. They don’t realize how much bikes have really changed over decades. An e-bike is even worse, they are too easy to leave in a high gear and still be able to take off, resulting in even more reason to not bother shifting. It really doesn’t help that society has become “maintenance free” and nobody has any idea how to do anything and can’t be bothered to try.
@@david78212I have a Mokwheel Scoria and it ghost pedals constantly. I changed the chainring from a 44T to a 48T and it has helped somewhat. I tend to just use the thumb throttle and leave it in 7th gear, my highest. I have plenty of power from the 750 watt rear hub motor.
11-28 works perfectly. I changed it out on my Lectric XP 1.0 and it’s a huge game changer.
Did you put the 50 tooth on the front of your XP I got one too the 2.0 I'm wondering is that what you did the 50 tooth
Is that a freewheel or cassette? Best I found was a 12-28 freewheel
If you are considering changing the rear, one tooth in back is about three in front so going from 14 down to 11 is like 9 up front.
Right, I'd rather REDUCE the mass of the drive train on a bicycle than increase it ... accomplish the same thing by making the bicycle lighter.
Since you asked, don't pound on the chainring, you are putting uneeeded wear/strain on BB bearings. Put a little grease on the tapered square axle shaft and also on all screw threads, including the tool. The outer screw will tighten the chainring. This will prevent any corrosion, and make it easier to remove next time. Be careful, the crank threads are easy to cross-thread and strip if you are not careful.
Great video. Exactly what I needed to see. I have a new ebike with 20" wheels and a 40 tooth crank wheel in front. The bike will supposedly go up to 28 but at 15 mph I am ghost pedaling. So I found a 48 tooth crank wheel to replace it with and will add a longer chain to make it fit good. Judging from what you did here I will be much better off with a 48 tooth. Can't wait to try it. I'll be having my local bike shop do this upgrade!
This one needs a few points of correction.
Don't really need to replace the crankarm, easier to just swap chainring. You don't even have to take the pedal off to swap chainrings.
If for some reason you do replace crankarm then you should have mentioned that crankarms come in different lengths.
Don't hammer the crankarm onto the shaft. That can cause bearing damage known as brinnelling. Tighten the crankarm at the bolt. Ride for very short distance and retighten.
The funny thing here is that he even put text in the video along the lines of “you could probably tighten the bolt to seat it.” I was getting ready to comment on the video there until I saw the text. I didn’t know the part about hammering potentially causing damage though, thank you for sharing that detail.
Glad you said it. I was about to. Never beat or hammer an arm. Use the extraction tool to remove the crank or reinstall by press-fit using existing axle nut or bolt.
@@jtnoodle sometimes have to, I used angle grinder to remove my crank set once but as didn't do maintenance every so often so they sort of rusted together, even self extracting bolts failed
@@mlee6050 one time I used a tie rod puller to get the left arm off a cheap Kmart girls bike, all steel components, the normal bike puller would've stripped some threads, even the tie rod puller had a hard time
@@manFromPeterborough if normal puller didn't I always went to hammers then to angle grinder last, tried one for cars but kept failing to hold on
That's one of the nicest bikes you have in my opinion... I like the zebra as well .
Upgrade chainrings for some bikes are diffcult to find and then produce little improvement. Freewheel upgrade produces dramatic improvement. Plan it when time to change/rotate tires and brake maintenance. Add brake rotor upgrade if desired.
My Himiway Escape Pro would definitely benefit from this. Anything above 17mph or so and my pedals feel like the chain fell off. Love ebikes but I'm pretty new to the mechanical side of things and learning as I go. Going to pick up one of these soon. thank you.
I'm right there with you on this. I have a Narrada folding ebike with 20" tires and a 40 tooth front ring. Anything above 15mps and it feels like chain fell off. I don't want to use throttle unless I have to. Much prefer to pedal and "feel" the pedals. I'm having my bike shop order a 48 tooth and a longer chain. I'm hoping this will work perfectly.
Got 56 tooth on my hyper scorpion and will put the hyper 62 tooth. Should get around to that early next year. Thanks for this didn’t think it was that easy cool.
Did you change the freewheel also? And did it helped with the ghost peddling?
I have a Himiway Zebra Step-Thru and when I looked at mine I saw that a bigger chainring would hit so I went with the up graded 11-28 tooth cassette and it works great for me and it was super easy because the upgraded motor on the Zebra has the wires coming out the disc brake side between the hub and the frame and is a much better design and easier to take apart because mine 4mm allen head screws and you can use that tool on it too, It was the best upgrade for the money on the Zebra, the chain ring is 46Tooth and I have plenty of peddle lift at 25MPH but I have not got the color display yet but I never go that fast anymore anyways because I am getting old, But back in the day😎😎👍👍
I changed the freewheel on my lectric folding bike.. total cost was $40 for the freewheel and the tool and it was very easy for me but I'm a retired mechanic.... I ride in the hills so I want the low low gear and the high high gear... 😄
Where did you get the parts? I have a XP2.0 with too much free wheel.
@@jamescastagna97 Amazon
I changed my rear sprocket on my Lectric 2.0 to the 11/28 but I would also like to know if anyone has added a bigger front sprocket. Mine will still ghost pedal at higher speeds. I would like to change the front one to so I get more top gearing.
I got the cobra based on your great reviews, love the demos and instructions. Rode it last night after doing adjustable goose neck. At 44 tooth it seems to ghost pedal and thoughts on 50 tooth on that?
main reason to do back gear over chain ring is this ....Ground Clearance ...if you got something like Rad Runner 1 there very low to gound and larger chain ring dont leave much room on 20inch wheel ...so in that case rear gear can be better option but harder one
But if you have a 42 chainring don't you still need to swap it out for a bigger size?
@@trini_boi2414 I am going to swap my 40 tooth for a 48 tooth on my Narrada folding eBike with 20" tires. I hate ghost pedaling and I'm getting that at 15 mph currently on a bike that will go 28 mph. Hoping it works perfectly.
@@CurtisSimpson I just swapped my 46 to a 52 and boy what a difference..no more Ghost peddling and I'm hitting speeds up to 30 mph now..the funny thing I heard it would be harder to pedal without battery power ..well for me it's the opposite my peddling is way more easier now without battery power..
Great idea (maybe). I subscribe but I think you should do a follow up. I don't know the answer so you should really address the limitations on hill climbing. You just rode flats. We have modest hills and a few short/steep ones. I hate the ghost pedaling, but would I get stuck on a hill? . I have an Lectric 2.0 and bought the freewheel and $10 tool. Haven't felt like doing the work nor drag it to a bike shop so great idea but a bit scary as well. Keep up the good work!
I have a 40 tooth on my eBike with 20" tires. I'm always riding in 7th gear (shimano) even in PAS 1 so I have all those gears I can use once I add the larger front ring. right now the bike is geared for 0-15mph but I want more :)
I did it the hard way with an 11 tooth freewheel only because I put a new motor on my Himiway cruiser. Either way you get rid of the ghost pedaling but at least on the Himiway, the motor assist still cuts out at 28.6 MPH due to the speed limiter. So besides using a KD 718 display with either set up, I would be interested to find other ways to eliminate the set top end on most e-bike motors.
Did you actually try using the freewheel tool? I’ve removed 3 freewheels off Ebike hubs, the Juliette plug passes through the tool easily.
Push the new crank on by hand, then tighten the crank screw, no need to hammer.
The problem with only changing the crankset is that you have made first gear harder, so when you really need to assist the bike on hills…
That’s why changing the freewheel to an 11-32 spread is better, helps stop ghost peddling at speed and makes it easier for you to assist on the hills, win win 👍
I agree. I changed my front sprocket to a 52 tooth by buying just the sprocket it was around $25.00 on Amazon. You have to make sure to buy the replacement that fits the bolt pattern on the crank set. Made a great difference but to get to the total effect change the freewheel to a 11 x 34 tooth.
The Julet connector fits through some tools, but the version he had was made for a socket wrench. I had the Bolton tool and loaned it to a Rad employee, and I ended up buying something similar on Amazon that worked fine. I graduated to the L10 connector instead since then.
The version I have is for a socket too, the Juliette connector fits through it easily, I’ve just watched this video again, that’s exactly the tool I have, the Juliette will fit through there no problem.
The freewheel change is by far the better option, for the reasons I outlined in my post above…
But don't you have to change the length of the chain?
@@trini_boi2414 I did not have to alter the chain length, there is some leeway.
Great video Bryan! I would like to add to look at the frame before ordering the new crank to make sure the bike frame does not get in the way . Just watched another video of someone trying to put a 52tooth on a himaway zebra but the crank hit the frame and would not fit. But definitely a worth wild upgrade thanks!
great point, you know i almost put that in the video, that stock zebra chainring is super close to the frame.
Yes, I watched that video and it maid me happy because I was right because I wanted to go with a bigger chain ring and I saw it was to close and I did not know if they made one that would work and they may make one but I went with the 11-28 tooth cassette on my Zebra and with upgraded motor the wire is on the disc brake side and comes out between the hub and frame much better and can easily use the cassette tool on it!
Which video? Link? Was about to put a 52t on a zebra. It's wrong to do or wrong size?
@@mikemymail7044 I put a 11-28 tooth cassette on my and it works great because I saw how close the 46t chain ring was and I was right because someone made a video of it and he could not do it, and then I saw this video and he had a 52tooth chain ring on his zebra so I asked him and he told me how and gave me the like to buy the 52tooth chain ring only $27.00 so read the comments that I and he made ruclips.net/video/2Aa_we4Ok7k/видео.html and here is the video of the fail 52 tooth ruclips.net/video/6MXPgRsK2bg/видео.html
I thought of doing the same upgrade to my Ride1Up Core-5. It's at 44T now. A 52T should do the trick and allow me to get 31mph (50kph), which is the maximum limit speed for PAS with a KD21C display. If there's an alternative display that will remove the 20mph throttle limit for this bike, then I'll do that upgrade as well.
My current top pedaling speed at on a short downhill underpass is 33.1mph. On a flat road in the hot summer, it's 29+mph.
29-30mph is as fast as I want to go on a bike. My eyes start watering at that point and I feel like I'm flying..
Is there a chainring upgrade for the Magicycle on Amazon that I can purchase. If so can you post the link so I can purchase. Love to fix that ghost peddling issue. Love ur videos. They have helped me so much... Gil
Good upgrade, and I'm sure you can imagine how useless the stock chainring is on a 40mph RadMini! The crank arm should be reinstalled using the bolt though. You never want to use a hammer or mallet on a component with bearings.
Haha yes I would love to see you pedaling at 40 mph!!!
40mph RadMini ? Sign me up !
Where you get this beast from?
@@helenHTID You can't just buy a 40mph radmini. You would have to get one and then modify it with a new hub motor, battery, and controller to go that fast. If you want a folding bike that is already fast when you buy it your best bet is the Amp Rides Volt DS. It will do 35mph stock. And it comes with a huge 56x11 top gear that let's you pedal at high speeds.
@@jimmyjames8736 I was being sarcastic lol
There's no way any rad bike is hitting 40mph! No mention of modding if that's what he has done.
Nice to know. It looks like you need to raise the seat up a bit higher.
Hmmmmmm.....I'm wondering if euphree will go with this larger crank for 2024 since they have it in stock. Also I wonder if the 2024's will have a 750w hub instead of the 500w. Maybe we'll wait and see.
When you are pounding on the crank arm, what do you think you are doing to the ball bearings in the bottom bracket?
You really shouldn't beat on that because there's bearings in the bottom bracket. All you really need to do is put the Allen bolt on it and tighten it and it will pull it down. You should never beat on anything with bearings in it. You probably won't hurt it but that's not the right way to do it. You asked 😁
I already have a 52T crank set with 14-28T cassette. I ghost pedal at 15mph. What would you recommend to get closer 25 mph before ghost pedalling?
I had the same issue. I changed mine to a 11t-28t. It solved my ghost pedaling. I have resistance all the way through, even at 28+ mph. I also have a 52t front chainring as well.
I only change the freewheel/cassette, as the result is 100% better.
Only the chainring swap was needed, not the crank arms. And an easier way to get that new crank on there is to just tighten. Never hammer. And for the best pedal feel, replace the freewheel as well with an 11-34t. For anyone going up steep hills or starting out on thick grass..., we gotta have the bigger 1st gear, especially if we've put on a bigger chainring.
The throttle is all you need for starting off on any surface. As for steep hills, Do you really need a 34? You should be helping with speed when riding up inclines on a hub motor so not to bog it down.
@@mozzjones6943 Agreed!
Hey Brian, another great video. Still waiting for the range test on the Magicycle Ocelot Pro Pas 3 would be great. Would like to have info before ordering one , for black Friday deal if possible. Thanks Brian
Hey citizen, just a quick question. On the himiway zebra, couldn't you just away out everything for a 1000 watt bafang hub kit. I think it's the same 175mm drop out. It would get rid of the speed limiter for good wouldn't it and get more power
Yes you could certainly do that, its just a big added cost.
@@CitizenCycle925 do you know what kind of connectors the stock battery uses. Plus I would rather have a bafang than there own motor. Bafang is the way to go plus so many more options. A 2k bike is nothing to a 500 dollar upgrade.
Basically, all e-bikes are set up to assume you are a competitive grade spinner (ie. greater than 100 RPMs) on anything over level 2 (out of 5) pedal assist. Even worse, all e-bikes come standard with clipless pedals which are the worst pedals for spinning.
I think changing the gear cluster is the better option for most.
On a certain road that I ride, there's always a patrol-car sitting off to the left in a parking-lot. I do ride fast(but safe!) when I'm out. I know the bush he/she hides behind, so I start my ghost-pedaling. I always feel like such an idiot, and I know how absurd I must look. I always laugh and hope that no one else sees this!
I hear ya!!
PS: Euphree must have listened - they switched from a 42T to a 50T....for latest version.
Oh my.. My bike came with a 11-34 and 52 front.. I guess I'm lucky ..But guys are buying a 56 front . you don't usually get a double sided guard though. So you lose that protection.
always do this with a 60 tooth crank. its brill but throws the mph out.
Yeah adding a bigger chainring will increase your mph
take the chain off first it is much easier
But this means harder work on hills not a good idea ,better to change the cassette
your videos are very informative. thank you
@@NelsonKNelson deleted the last comment after rewinding the video and seeing the chainring bolts. That said, I still wouldn’t say this video is “wrong.” He had a goal, he took steps that achieved that goal. Yes, there was another way to accomplish it with less waste, but then he would have needed even more tools (chainring nut tool), and it wouldn’t work with all bikes. There are chainrings out there that are completely integrated with the crank arm that can’t be replaced separately. This is still valid content.
@@GreySim I think Citizen has one of the best and most useful ebike channels. But this is the first time I can't thumbs up. The only useful info provided was that higher gearing helps at higher speeds and most people already know that. He shouldn't have made changing crankarms his first option, he didn't let people know that crankarms come in different lengths, and he hammered his crank bearings. It was a good idea for a video but not good information. Everybody strikes out sometimes, Citizen was just having a weak day at the plate.
@@jimmyjames8736 fair enough. I actually removed my own thumbs up in consideration of all these points. Something nobody else has even touched on so far is the chain length too. Seems like it worked out okay for him so far, but someone following this with too short of a chain (edit: and/or making too big of a tooth count jump) is liable to damage their derailleur.
@@GreySim Citizen did at least bring up chain length in the video but he said it just usually works out. Woulda been nice if he mentioned to shift into largest rear sprocket and check tensioner cage angle but I cut him slack on that one since he at least realized that it could be a problem.
Poor crank, often just push on square taper then just tighten bolt to 40NM to keep it on tight
You will seriously regret changing the gearing on an ebike WHEN you run out of battery and have to pedal it back to wherever you came from...
FWIW - have you ever fallen on a bicycle doing ~28MPH? You'll know it WHEN (not if) you do...
and thats why its better to change the freewheel, you're not changing the low gears
@@tenncutt people don’t want to shift a bike. They have fond memories of shifting a bike and it just clunks and grinds. They don’t realize how much bikes have really changed over decades. An e-bike is even worse, they are too easy to leave in a high gear and still be able to take off, resulting in even more reason to not bother shifting. It really doesn’t help that society has become “maintenance free” and nobody has any idea how to do anything and can’t be bothered to try.
@@david78212I have a Mokwheel Scoria and it ghost pedals constantly. I changed the chainring from a 44T to a 48T and it has helped somewhat. I tend to just use the thumb throttle and leave it in 7th gear, my highest. I have plenty of power from the 750 watt rear hub motor.
@@david78212 Ha ha, you got that right!
Can this be done to the lectric 3.0? Where can I find the part?
Hello? @CitizenCycle