Thanks so much. I saw a GCN vid and it told us to remove the crankset. But I saw yours and I try it without removing the crankset. I was able to do it fairly quickly and I think having the crankset on even give to better leverage when removing and installing the bolts. You rock!
Great video. Brief & to the point. Thx for getting right to the point & not wasting over half the video explaining stupid stuff like removing pedals, changing the crankset (not the subject of the video) and, well, I could go on & on. Your video accurately describes the issue in the title & then proceeds to actually explain everything you need to know between the 1 minute & 5 minute marks. Why can't all how to videos do that without getting lost in the weeds? For example, if someone can't even figure out how to remove pedals, they've got no business messing with the chainring & front derailleur.
Thanks for the video , I knew I could do it myself . The bike shop wanted to remove the crank and I said no no , I can do it . Saved money and time :-)
Thanks so much! I actually managed to replace my rusty 36T small chainring to a lightweight 34T aluminium chainring! With my Allen keys! Hooray for free 70g weight reduction & I'm now finally at 1.06 ratio for my climbing gears! 😊😊
I know this is an old video but, thanks man! I have a 1999 Specialized FSR Sport that I am changing the middle chainring due to missing teeth. The 42T and 22T were in great shape and so, was the cassette. The 32T middle chainring seems to be the weak link on these bikes. I have talked to other owners that have done the same to get a little more life out of the drivetrain before upgrading. Great job on the video it will save me a lot of time!!
Thanks, this will be really useful. Quick question: one couldn't simply do the whole operation with the chain resting on the crank or alternatively removing the chain? Is there a reason why it needs to stay on the small ring until the very last moment and right at the start of installing new ones? One last question: is the tool to work behind the rings always necessary? What's its name? Thank you!
Thank you for posting this quick fix. I’ve just changed my 10 spd cassette (Ultegra 12-27) and replaced the chain (KMC). Still getting a slight intermittent noise when applying pressure while riding and shifting to gear 6 (when chain line is very parallel). Rear derailleur has been properly adjusted: hi, lo and b, and while in the stand its smooth up and down. Add a load, and slight crunch like the chain is finding flat spots on the chainring. Anyway, just ordered the inner and outer chainrings (39/53) and we’ll see if things purr as it used too.
it is standard 2 have hex head bolts? or is it valid for 5K+ bikes only? b-cuz on mine it's more like rivets and can't b removed w/crank arm removed 1st.
Hey, I'm going from 2x11 to 1x11, 26/36 to a 32T chainring, do you think I'd need a new chain, I'm guessing not since the chain I have can already run on a 26t and 36t, so my new 32t shouldn't pose any issues? Thanks!
Hey, I'm looking to remove the third chainring on my Kona (Precept 2015), I want to remove it completely, not replace it, and leave the smallest and medium chainrings on. If I do that, can I do it the same was as you have done in this video? And will I have to move the deraileur, or buy any new parts? Thanks
+Matthew Keen If by third chainring you're refering to the outermost or biggest one, then yes, it should be easily removed. You'll need to either get some spacer tabs to take the place of the big ring or get shorter chainring bolts. Using a triple FD you shouldn't have to move it, however I recommend seting the outside limit screw to prevent you from being able to shift into the 3rd gear and throw your chain. You'll also want to shorten your chain to fit your new big/big ratio.
i've got FSA Comet 24/38 cranks on my MTB that i'm converting to 1x and from what i can see it uses two different sets of chainring bolts on the frame side of the crank, it might be similar for yours
good video.i Keep seeing hybrid bikes that have one chainring and a wide range cassette and this offers advantages however often the chainring is too big for big hills.I would prefer a smaller ring at the front.
I like to do new chainrings, new rear cassette, new chain, clean and lube the derails very well, and then I am ready to roll on with confidence on my nice, new drive train.
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9 year old video? Might as well be 9 days! GREAT job!! Exactly what I was looking for.
9 years ago from this comment was 2015! felt like yesterday
Thanks so much. I saw a GCN vid and it told us to remove the crankset. But I saw yours and I try it without removing the crankset. I was able to do it fairly quickly and I think having the crankset on even give to better leverage when removing and installing the bolts. You rock!
Great video. Brief & to the point. Thx for getting right to the point & not wasting over half the video explaining stupid stuff like removing pedals, changing the crankset (not the subject of the video) and, well, I could go on & on. Your video accurately describes the issue in the title & then proceeds to actually explain everything you need to know between the 1 minute & 5 minute marks. Why can't all how to videos do that without getting lost in the weeds? For example, if someone can't even figure out how to remove pedals, they've got no business messing with the chainring & front derailleur.
Thanks for the video , I knew I could do it myself . The bike shop wanted to remove the crank and I said no no , I can do it . Saved money and time :-)
Thanks so much! I actually managed to replace my rusty 36T small chainring to a lightweight 34T aluminium chainring! With my Allen keys!
Hooray for free 70g weight reduction & I'm now finally at 1.06 ratio for my climbing gears! 😊😊
Thanks, changing the chain-ring turned out to be pretty easy this way.
+kie7077 Who doesn't like a good shortcut? Glad it worked out.
I know this is an old video but, thanks man! I have a 1999 Specialized FSR Sport that I am changing the middle chainring due to missing teeth. The 42T and 22T were in great shape and so, was the cassette. The 32T middle chainring seems to be the weak link on these bikes. I have talked to other owners that have done the same to get a little more life out of the drivetrain before upgrading. Great job on the video it will save me a lot of time!!
Thanks, this will be really useful. Quick question: one couldn't simply do the whole operation with the chain resting on the crank or alternatively removing the chain? Is there a reason why it needs to stay on the small ring until the very last moment and right at the start of installing new ones? One last question: is the tool to work behind the rings always necessary? What's its name? Thank you!
thank you. about to buy a set of rings from the site and was wondering if I had to take the crank off.
Thank you for posting this quick fix. I’ve just changed my 10 spd cassette (Ultegra 12-27) and replaced the chain (KMC). Still getting a slight intermittent noise when applying pressure while riding and shifting to gear 6 (when chain line is very parallel). Rear derailleur has been properly adjusted: hi, lo and b, and while in the stand its smooth up and down. Add a load, and slight crunch like the chain is finding flat spots on the chainring. Anyway, just ordered the inner and outer chainrings (39/53) and we’ll see if things purr as it used too.
just another thank you for posting this. much easier than removing the hole set.
Thank you for this video, i was able to clean the chain rings making them look like new again
it is standard 2 have hex head bolts? or is it valid for 5K+ bikes only? b-cuz on mine it's more like rivets and can't b removed w/crank arm removed 1st.
What tool did you use on the back ?
I have something between the back screws. These should go in the screws or over the first chainring?
Hey, I'm going from 2x11 to 1x11, 26/36 to a 32T chainring, do you think I'd need a new chain, I'm guessing not since the chain I have can already run on a 26t and 36t, so my new 32t shouldn't pose any issues? Thanks!
How did it go?
Great vid! I was wondering if this will work with a triple chainring?
Two Wheels me too. Let me know if you figured it out man.
inferno4001 did any of yous figure it out?
Cheers m8. Exactly what I was looking for!
Thank you so much. I have a similar set up, and this video was very helpful.
i want a replacement for FSA Comet 368 42/27t
bit confused with what will fit
Hey,
I'm looking to remove the third chainring on my Kona (Precept 2015), I want to remove it completely, not replace it, and leave the smallest and medium chainrings on. If I do that, can I do it the same was as you have done in this video? And will I have to move the deraileur, or buy any new parts?
Thanks
+Matthew Keen If by third chainring you're refering to the outermost or biggest one, then yes, it should be easily removed. You'll need to either get some spacer tabs to take the place of the big ring or get shorter chainring bolts. Using a triple FD you shouldn't have to move it, however I recommend seting the outside limit screw to prevent you from being able to shift into the 3rd gear and throw your chain. You'll also want to shorten your chain to fit your new big/big ratio.
+WickWerks Chainrings Thanks for your help :D
lifesaver fella, thank you very much.
Great Info, thanks for making the video!
Great explanation
Does this work for Shimano Ultegra 6800 chainrings?
Thanks, worked for me on my 3 sprocket trek fuel ex5. Had to replace a bent middle sprocket.
hey on my fsa crank I don't have any exposed bolts, is everything removed from inside?
Rudy Chavira depends which fsa crank you're talking about.
On the crank there might be plastic covers over the bolts.
i've got FSA Comet 24/38 cranks on my MTB that i'm converting to 1x and from what i can see it uses two different sets of chainring bolts on the frame side of the crank, it might be similar for yours
good video.i Keep seeing hybrid bikes that have one chainring and a wide range cassette and this offers advantages however often the chainring is too big for big hills.I would prefer a smaller ring at the front.
I like to do new chainrings, new rear cassette, new chain, clean and lube the derails very well, and then I am ready to roll on with confidence on my nice, new drive train.
Nice video, thanks :)
👍yours video ruining bike shop business. today i went in bike shop with same question, they said it gonna be $150, to replace a crank chainring.
just what i was looking for! changing rings a triple crankset and it uses a square tapered BB and dun have the special tool to undo them cranks lol
so did it work on youre 3x ?
what if I'm changing from 34 to 36?
Rudy Chavira you will need a new chain as there will be less spaces in the original chain.
thanks. exactly what I was looking for.
thanks this helps a lot 😊 I'm fixing my bike
I preffer changing the top one too (3rd)
Some spikes that runs the chaing are pretty worn out.
👏💪👍