Everything You Need To Know About 1x, 2x & 3x Cranksets
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- When choosing a bike, there are so many options available, even down to choosing your gearing. You can get 1x, 2x, 3x cranksets which each offer different gear ratios and therefore riding experiences. If you’re unsure about which type of chainset is best for you or just want to know more about different drivetrain set-ups then this is the video for you!
0:00 Intro
0:21 What Are Gear Ratios?
2:08 Choosing Your Gear Ratios
2:44 3x Chainset
4:46 2x Chainset
6:55 1x Chainring
9:27 Summary
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Do you ride a 1x, 2x or 3x and which do you think is best?
2x
ride 3x but its the old bike of my dad so it isnt really a choise, would go 2x. What i find good with 3x is that for in belgium i can ride an 11-23 casette perfectly fine, for mountains i use another one
I believe 1x is for downhill purposes only aside from those who like it for commuting, 2x for general use racing or all purpose commuting, and 3x is for multi-purpose cycling jacks all rounder
3x7 totally enough for me for road and for some hills. 20kg bicycle with steel frame is fine for me because my own weight around 105 kg.
I'd say it's a case of horses for courses with chainsets. For expedition and touring cycling 3x is still the way to go. I'd argue that utility cycling (cargo, shopping and school runs) are also best with a 3x too when on a bike hauling a heavy load unless you have electronic assistance. 2x is good is good for everthing else and 1x is good for specialist roles (beach racing, gravel and even TT) as well as flatter commutes. I own the two extremes, a touring bike with a triple and a gravel bike with a single, they're both brilliant for what I need them to do.
You forget about cycle tourists, who ride over a variety of terrain and with various different loads. A 3x chainring gives a much wider range of gears than the best single ring. My old MTB has a triple and has a 6:1 range between top gear and "granny" gear. So whether you are speeding on the flat with no luggage, or crawling up a steep hill with 20kg of luggage you can find an appropriate gear. The best range that you can get from a single (10-51 cassette) is 5.1 to one, but most are far less than that.
This is unpopular because 3x has fallen out of fashion, but for me it's still the best option. For road riding in my area with extremely varied terrain, 2x doesn't have quite enough range, even with a compact and 11-32 cassette I find myself wanting a higher and lower gear, without increasing the gaps between gears.
Same here brother. I still prefer a 3 by for all terrain riding.
Do some squats. 34x30 on compact should let an old lady ride up a wall.
Same here. In rolling terrain, it's great to just switch chainrings on rollers instead of having to fap about with both the chainring and the cog.
I'm right there with you, 3x is nice to have when you hit a steep hill or ramp or series of them or just want to ease up and recover. And I did that last evening en route home from work, I took the long way home and I was happy to drop it all the way down to the granny for an unfamiliar uphill stretch--I was tired and I was just looking ten-yards ahead of me and I didn't know how long that road would rise. Then, woohoo, I reached the top and, well, you know, I could've been mistaken for Greg LeMond as I descended in the big ring. 3x is just so much fun for everyday riding, especially when your bike is a bagger with big ol' rear panniers. 2x is surely the best all in all and 1x, c'mon now, what's not to love about a campus bike? :)
I just like all the power.
Tried a 2 x.
Went back to a 3 x 9.
Cant beat it for all situation ridng for old Clydesdale 60+ y/o's like me.
A 22 granny gear used less than 5% but oh so useful when i want it.
32T middle cog can be used with all 9 cassette sprockets, ideally only 7 for the majority of ridng, and a 44T large front for long flats and. descents with the top 4-5 high gears.
Rear cassette is now an 11-34 on an older Surly.
Magic
Thanks for the tip, I'm in my 60's and new to cycling, to keep fit, and i will differently have a look at changing my 2x, for a 3x, and follow your advice, just had a go on a mountain bike on the small cog, and it was so easy to ride, thanks for the tips. JC.
@@user-po4xg1xq7n actually currently running a 2 x again on the same Surly...42-26 front with the same rear cassette, friction shifting on the front.
3X is the best way to keep your rear wheel lighter while having a wide range of gears.
The best riding quality of any bike is to have the center of gravity at the bottom bracket. Even more important than the overall bicycle weight.
Why talk about center of mass when 3x provides a poor clearance for extreeme racing(mtb). If you are not racing than why bother about center of mass
The 3x crankset really is fantastic for newer cyclists or cyclists with lower power outputs. The ratios can get crazy low. It can be very frustrating for beginner cyclists (and, really, any cyclist) having to mash in a lower gear to get anywhere up a hill.
Man this is totally me
I was running a 3x, grinding through tons of chains & rear cassettes. Then I changed the rear to a rohloff & the front to a schlumpf drive; huge range, evenly spaced, one chain lasts an incredibly long time, smooth shifting, great low and high end, doesn't freeze in place....love it.
I live off my bike, so having a planetary gear in oil and one in grease, both sealed, has just been brilliant.
I like IGHs.
i've always wondered why shimano never had a product to compete with the schlumpf drive. one would think it'd be perfect for touring/gravel and such, especially if made electronic
That sounds super nice but WOW that's an expensive drivetrain.
@@ffwast living off a bike, riding 6 days a week, grinds up a ton of cassettes, chains, and front rings. I was amazed at how frequently I was buying new. Derailures freeze in place, so in the winter you got one gear to work with. So the expense is enormous if your bike hangs on a wall. If your knocking down thousands of miles, and it always works, mud, snow, etc....seems like a great deal to me. Always consider duty cycle sir.
Have a beautiful week, and thank you for your time. Have a great week
I did a lookup on these and some math, and yeah... This is the move. One drivetrain will handle everything from XC and downhill to road bikes, depending, of course, on your final sprocket choice.
3x with a 40/30/22 and 11-34. More than I'll probably ever need but I like having options depending on terrain and riding mood
As for the duplicate ratios what I can say is: map those ratios out. Learn how to shift to maximise both cassette and chainrings without crosschaining
What's you top speed like? Do you need a cadence of 90 to hold 20mph?
@@shinobusensui9395with a cadence of 80 with the chain ring on the 40 and the rear on 11 you can maintain 20mph (depending on tire size you'll be around 22-25 mph at 80 rpm).
Perfect timing with this video. I have 10 years old Trek FX with 3x8 setup and i think i am going 2x for this bike. I use the smallest chainring once a year and the gears are really similar in the middle.
I like my three x setup. It has 50x38x30 all alloy cranks and 9 x 40t cassette. Where I live the trail are long graduated inclines and nice down hills so I can get up on the 50t crank ring. The 30 crank ring enables me to come steep hills. Say what you want about the 3 crankset but with the multiple elevation decline and level sections gives me the perfect setup.
I put together a set that came to my mind when I was going up a very steep hill this/ last summer.
As a driver, I like to maintain relatively high speeds on flat roads, and love to concor all steeper or steepest roads or hills I find, after I manage to get up to the top I addictively enjoy going downhill and playing with combinations of speeds, and how a few hundred grams does not play a role for me, I am not a professional but a fitness driver for health and body, I decided to give a chance to a
hollowtech triple 3(24-34-42T)x crankset with 9( 11-42t ) speed with a long rear derailleur and honestly, I have it all, I got it all and never again 2x. It is great but this is better!
It sounds strange, but in practice, it is a driving paradise.
That's it, our fathers knew why you always need to choose a triple solution :D
Well done Alex! I did know much of this but nevertheless it was a fascinating listen. Brilliantly explained 👌
Hope you found it interesting
My first bike after returning to cycling was a Scattante with a 3X up front but a very narrow rear cassette. Gave great ratios, but I was advised to go 2x and put on a wider range rear cassette. I did that with a series of bikes moving from full to subcompact up front. My next bike, which will have assist due to an ongoing medical issue will be 1x GRX. 42 up front and 10-44 in the rear. I don't need to be pushing it downhill, but will need the lower ratios on the climbs.
My older, heavier, no-name road bike had a triple crank and I loved it. We have some pretty steep hills here in the Bay Area and I would never have climbed them without my granny gear. (That’s the smallest gear on the crank, BTW; doubt anyone uses the term any more.) My new carbon fiber ride is a 2-by with a wide-range cassette and climbs just fine.
My climbing road bikes have doubles 44 or 48/34s with 11-28 or 30 rear cassettes. My xc-gravel rigs use re-purposed triples with a chain guard outer, 42 mid and 30 inner ring. This leaves me with plenty of options for rear cassettes. When top speed is not the factor, lower gears take priority.
I use 3x on both bikes, and use all 3 chainrings every ride pretty much.
Sounds like you've found the right set-up for you then!
Thank you, you've changed my ideas!
Great video thanks!
Went from a 3x crank (44/34/22) that came with my MTB to a 2x (36/26). The former used a sealed cartridge BB and an 11-32, 9 speed compact cassette. The 2x runs On a shimano hollow tech 2 bb and a 11- 42, 11speed cassette. Pretty smooth and efficient. Sacrificed top speed with the smaller crank but cycling with others with the previous set, it's easier to keep up with them doing a slightly higher cadence. And my set-up is totally brutal on climbs.
Not sure 1x is lighter. The big range cassettes are extremly heavy and expensive. With the same budget, you can build a much lighter 2x setup, with more range and smaller steps
I really agree. The main advantage has to be no front shifter and derailleur.
You can get a Garbaruk 10-52 tooth Casette for 250€ Weighs 339 grams 50 grams less than a shimano 105 11-34 casette. If you factor in you need a front derailieur, double chainring crankset, extra cables and housing, there is not much of a price difference. The weight is still lower even if you choose a cheaper casette.
@@The2808erik brooo, 250‽ This is a wear part that needs replacing from time to time and even my Ultegra cassette "only" costs me ~70€ and I think that is definitely enough. How are you trying to argue paying this much money for it is in any way sustainable..
Not to mention chain price *and* longevity. 1x makes sense for sponsored racers and slow leisure rides on a city bike (in a flat city). 2x is the ideal compromise, specially if you know which gear ratios suit your particular needs. Front derailleurs aren't that complicated. Top pull front derailleur and/or full length housing makes them (as well as the rear derailleur and mechanical brakes) easy to maintain. (Let's leave internal cable routing out of this conversation.)
@@KarlosEPM Chains for my 1x12 group set are cheaper than for my old 2x10.
I just went through this analysis last week when buying a new gravel bike (2X vs 1X both by 11x). The bike I was purchasing was a Trek Checkpoint. For Treks std configurations for each, 1X or 2X, it was a trade off of top end speed vs low end speed. The 1X setup would be quite as fast as the 2X, but had slightly better climbing gears. So I had to make a choice based on the type of riding I thought I was more likely to do and went with the 2X.
You made the correct decision. I have 2x on my gravel bike and love it. I can “fly” on the road and crawl up some steep climbs with a 48/31 crankset.
Sorry gcn/Alex thought I'd seen all gcn tech,obviously not. Thanks for tech info it help with plenty of question's I'd got.and I class myself a I'm a long time avid viewer. Happy new year to you all...fantastic people.
I’ve just done 2 weeks in the alps on a 1x42 with a 10-33 SRAM Red AXS on my road bike. Getting near the same ratios as my old double compact 11-28 I had no problems what so ever and the advantage of a lighter setup for the mountains, I haven’t looked back! Most people can’t get their head around it…and that’s the mindset that will most likely stop most people from converting to a 1x setup.
Agreed.. for me its even easier living in the flats. converted my wife's bike to 1x, and would like my next road bike to be 1x if manufacturers would get off their A$$. I'd love a Canyon Aeroad in 1x
You would of gone faster with a 2x
Hi, I'm building a new bike currently and I'm considering 1x. I'm not a strong climber so I need them big old easy gears. You say you have no issues in the Alps, are you a mountain goat? or did it work well? I currently have Force 2x 10-33 with a 35-48, what would you say I'd need 1x to keep that?
@@chrisprice5895I cannot agree. 2X is tradition not necessity. I got a Tern Verge X18 folding road bike. And converted it to 1X9. Its no slower. In fact my average speed increased. Because I'm wasting less time shifting and more time mastering. The 2X set up was 53/39--9--26. I put a single Litepro 45 front ring on. And tool nearly half a pound of weight off the bike in the process.
Gear inches went from 28---107 to 31--91. And I actually increased my average speed. Top speed of 28.5mph only slightly slower than the 29mph I got with the 53 front ring. Because what you must understand. Is a larger ring is only effective if you can turn it faster. And I had a superior cadence on the 45. That puts me close to the same top end speed the 53 gave me.
9,10,11,13,15,17,20,23,26.
9,10,11 are for speed
13,15,17 are for cruising.
20,23,26 are for climbing. It's a thing of beauty.
I got to know all 9 speeds perfectly..and when to use them. My EFFICIENCY improved and my cadence too became superior. Which improved my time by MINUTES. Over a 20 mile ride.
So no I cannot agree that a 2 times system is faster. Its more confusing that's for sure. And overlapping useless gear ratios do nothing.
You keep your thoughts pure on the 3 sections of riding.
SPEED
CRUISING
CLIMBING
And you watch how your numbers will improve. And your legs will become more conditioned as they get used to the familiarity of those 9 precise grades of difficulty......
@@ianhughes221210--42 11 speed sram or similar. with a front chainring of 46 (WOLFTOOTH).. Would set you in that ballpark nicely. Same low gear inches of around 29. And 123 on the top end vs the 28 to 128 youre getting.
A little improvement in top end cadence and you wouldn't be losing anything. As I didn't going from 107 top gear inches to 91 on my folding road bike. When I converted from 2X9 to 1X9.
53/39---9--26 (28--107)
45/---9--26
(31--91)
Leg turnover for longer periods trumps short power blasts. That pulverise the fibres in your quads. And I only lost 0.5 mph off my alltime top speed over the same stretch of road..
When I began serious riding over 40 years ago, there were not many 3X options. Ten years later there were tons, mostly on mountain bikes. Another ten years, and there were fewer again. I own a 2001 model "hybrid" and a 2022 model "endurance" bike with 3X, but I rarely use the smallest ring. My more serious road bikes are 2X, and my e-bike is 1X. All have their places.
Depending on your assist level on your ebike, you actually have a virtual smaller chainring.
Wow thanks for the story mate
Different tools for different jobs!
@@gcntech i just wanna know something..i wanna go from 3x7 to 1x10 11-48tooth..so this will probably be slower bicycle than it was before at top speed..so i need to know what front chain ring i need for speed how much tooth would be good for better top speed ? 28 tooth in front or 30,32,34,36 for higher speed?
@@powerzone7146 the exact problem I am here for seeking help for.
a bit of history from the 70s... i used 52x 45 or 52x44 (had a 54 ring for certain events like group TT. rear was 14-18 usually (living on the prairies) or if in hilly areas maybe up to a 23... i recall my easiest gear was 54 inches and climbed some good slopes on those. but hey i was a light teen racer. now as a heavy age 65 guy, my specialized Roubaix (2011) came with an SK 3x 50/39/30. it is so easy when going up a steep slope to drop from the 39 to 30...unlike INCREASING the cassette size on the back. For me a triple is best.
for pro riders using 1x, i have seen several dropped chains...leading to a discussion on a chain guide, which eliminates some of the advantage of a 1x. those massive cassettes certainly literally outweigh any savings advantages of the 1x system.
imo, the 2x with compact size and longer derailleur and 10 or more gears in the back will (and should) remain the popular choice for many years to come.
UNRELATED QUESTION: all of the HOT racing bikes seem to come with super slammed bars.... what about people with a desire to buy a GREAT bike, but who do not have the flexibility needed to ride in that position? what if any manufacturers put out a model with either adaptability or option to buy with a higher bar height? If I am curious, probably other folks are too.
enjoy your channel.
I have a 44 tooth 1x mated to a 28-12 cassette. Entry level bike but I’m just getting into biking again and live in a flat area so it’s great
Great topic Alex. I currently run a 1X on my Orbea MTB, 2X on my gravel bike and a 3X on an old hardtail retired to a turbo trainer. This gives me experience in all areas. My favourite right now is the 1X as I only have to worry about the gearing in the rear. Seems to work out very well.
I love shifting my triple chain ring set. It takes less time to get through from high to low, I don't have to spend more time pedaling slower so my chain can move to the next gear.
I run 22-42 on the front 32-11 on the back with 153 mm crank arms. I came to realize that the triple up front was only good for downhills and around here they are all up. So I have what seems like the 4x4 with a low and high range but no need to shift the front untill I get to a hill. Gear inches works out to 17.5" - 93" seldom in the lowest gear but sure is nice having a gear, than wishing I had !
This video is great
I am now converting an old MTB, from V Brakes to mech disks and a proper front carbon fork instead of the suspension one. It has 3x9 XT all around, which I will keep and enter local CX races. It works like a charm and I do not care spending the money for a 1x conversion, neither do I expect that such a change would offer me a lot in performance.
Sounds like you've got yourself some great kit! Would you ever be tempted to try a 1x system out? 👀
@@gcntech Sure! I certainly love the idea of simplicity. I was close to converting this one (which by the way was a 26 inch, luckily there is clearance in radius and width to fit proper cx wheels), at the end I decided to contain myself. I think of saving money to get that Litening Aero to replace my Focus Mares which I use for road and CX events (changing wheels, stems and pedals).
My first "proper" bike was a 3x and I legit never used the smallest ring. I love the idea of a 1x, but I think it would only be useful for gravel or mountain biking. 2x 50/34 is the best of all worlds imo
plot the gears in excel, and you'll see there is a ton of overlap so many less useful gears than it appears.
My only bike right now has a 3x setup and I don't use the small ring, too. I was wondering if the quickest, easiest and maybe cheapest way to get more use out of the unloved 3rd ring is actually swapping out the cassette for something with a much narrower spread gear ratio. For example swap out the 32-11 cassette for something like a 23-11 cassette (it's a 9x cassette in my case). This would result in way less overlap of gear ratios between the three chain rings, it would give the small chain ring an actual use case and it would give you much more options for finding exactly the right gear to keep your cadence as stable as possible.
@@marctestarossa Why spend money? Just enjoy it as is.
@@kpsig to be honest, that's what I was doing for the past months ^^
I have always wondered when riding a bike why i see some bikes pedal slower but moves faster lolz. This answers it. Thanks for the explanation Alex. Also #AskGCNTech has there ever been a proof of concept chainring that expands/transforms. Eg 34T to 50T
I prefer 3x for lots of reasons, even in triathlon time trials. Many people note the big gear range as the reason and that's a factor. But my favorite reason to have a 3x on my road bike is that it makes relatively flat terrain better versus 2x options (especially the compact 2x on my other bike). That's because my relatively typical cadence at a fairly typical speed of 15-20 mph puts me in the middle of my cassette while using my middle chain ring. Small changes in speed? I just pop a gear up or down most of the time. Hill climb? Then it's same story once i switch to my small ring. Sprinting or descending? It's big gear time and again easy small adjustments!
On my compact, however, the crossover point is right at around 17-18 mph. So i constantly have to switch chainrings and cogs simultaneously to get those small adjustments in cadence. And if i tweaked all the gears up or down to reduce that, I'd then be stuck without gears i need at either high or low speeds.
Now a 1x system with a big range cassette like they make nowadays would be the best of both worlds...
I'm never going back from 1x unless I ride/build a bike with an older Groupset. With 1x12 the cadence difference is low enough its not an issue anymore and the range with Sram is sufficient.
I run a Shimano Saint 36t single with an XT 11-32 cassette on my cyclocross bike. I was considering an 36-26 XT double but went for the Saint. I guess it's light. I still may do a double, and it would have to be silver because the 2006 Bianchi Volpe is green, and silver is a more classic look. Right now I have black AND silver components. The XT Mega 9 Speed Shadow derailleur is silver AND black.
Started cycling (again) 2 years ago, and bought a hybrid with a 3 x 8. I found I hardly ever used the smallest ring, and spent 95% + in the middle ring - we have some over 20% hills around here (Dundee) and I still never found a need for the smallest ring. Ended up replacing the middle ring twice in 10k miles. Recently swapped to an endurace with 2 x 11, and I find myself using both rings a lot more, but at times wishing I had a smaller gear!
Change the rear cassette to get a better ratio for your riding!
If you live in a flat sort of area, 1x with a narrow rear cassette is the best of the bunch IMO. 11x28 is plenty for the flats where I live, and also can uses a shorter cage rear mech then too. I wish more road bikes offered 1x. If they did, I'd upgrade.
Got one of most set-ups
Single fixed. Single freewheel. Single coaster. Sturmey Archer AW3. 5 speed. 10 speed. 12 speed double chainset. 14 speed double chainset. 15 speed triple chainset. 18 speed triple chainset. 18 speed double chainset, 20 speed double chainset. Brompton 3 speed hub + 3 sprockets.
18 speed Alpine double 36 & 22 rings, 14 - 28 9spd cassette. Effectively 8 on the 36 ring + 4 on the small ring = 12 speeds.
Never had, and don't want a Half Step chainset.
I've converted my hardtail MTB that i use for trails and gravel riding to a 1x but i used a 38t and went with an 11-40 cassette. It gives me high enough for good gravel speed (considering my mtb tires) and plenty of climbing power considering i never used the smallest ring except on one extreme climb when i had the 11-36t cassette on and even then it was too steep to hold traction anyways. On my road bike im keeping the factory 3x on my Triban rc120 because i live in a very hilly area and sometimes on my normal road route i need that small ring.
I have a Ghost Cross 7500 with a Shimano XT 10-Speed 48-36-26 / 11-36 setup. At my age(70) it's what my old legs need to get up the steeper hills where I live (Germany).
I need this set up to fit on a dartmoor primal frame, but the dartmoor primal frame only has a max 34t chain ring
Thanks Alex..3 bikes . Horses for courses , eh ? Road and MTB are 2 by , and my gravel is the one by . To me, they have the right gearing and ratio's . I am however , SAF and OAF ..all fun just the same bud !!
2x with CVT hub gives massive range. I tend to stay in the big ring unless the terrain gets hilly.
my setup for roadbike i have 2x crankset, and for gravelbike i have 3x crankset (including a super small chainring 22t with 0,6 gear ratio only used for secret weapon on super steep off-road climb).
3x (3x7 and 3x8) transmission-very good value for money (including the chain)
1x for mtb and gravel, 2x for road, 3x for touring/bikepacking
tbh, 2x for touring and bikepacking is pretty doable as well, with 38/26 or similar crankset and 11-36 or 40 cassette, u can get up any hills and go downhill fast enough, 3x is mostly dead
tbh, if you're not competing, you can basically use any setup.
3x used to be the standard in MTBs as well back then...
@@cjmpaja That's right. My 90's steel frame MTB has a 3X7 drive train. It is my winter bike and it is still very enjoyable to ride.
@@cjmpaja I had a 3x back in the day and a 1x was tbe best idea ever. It was alway clumsy changing gear when you're in tbe rough and tumble. Occasionally jumping 2 chainset was great but overall 1x allows you to focus on the terrain and not your gears.. It's why I even think 1x for commuting unless you're a speed demon is probably a better option too
I live on the Canadian Prairies, dead flat but lots of wind. I use 2x, mostly in the big ring but when riding into the wind when my knees are aching and/or I'm feeling weak I use the the smaller ring...I can also get away a fairly tight cassette, 12-21 or 13-21, I'd die on a hill.
Hi Dr. Bridgewood, et al.
I have a 2x11 Shimano Ultegra Di2 setup and I’m considering changing the gears on my bike. What should you consider when changing your gears? And is there a way to get the data on how much time you’re riding in a given gear ratio on Di2?
#gcntech
I switched from a 1x 42T to a 2x 46/30 on my gravel bike and I've never been happier. I am able to tackle the same uphill areas easier with the 30T crank. Never going back to 1x as I have more options on the 2x especially on gravel roads. Better set-up for me.
Exactly. I have Shimano 2x22T-36T. It's perfect.
2x is king for gravel bikes!
3*. I haven't the strength for less these days. Also I love ossymetric, it has made such a difference for me.
With a 1x . The frame will dictate the max chain ring size with the chain being centered with the cassette. Usually a 42t will be about the max. Which is why top end speed will suffer. This is all relative to your fitness which is why I like my DIY e-bike 1x. And why I need my 3x to climb the slightest of hills. The E-bike brought the fun factor back in for this old rider...
I have an art degree and there was more math than I could handle at the top of this video. I guess I better go back to those Khan Academy classes then.
Feel better, Alex! I hope you heal quickly.
Which tyresize for which chainring? I have 44mm tyres on my gravelbike and it feels ok on 40mm chainring with 11-42 cassette. If I change to small tyres, should I change chainring to optimize the gearing? Will a 42 mm chainring on 38mm tyres give the same speed as a 40mm chainring on 44mm tyres?
What is the chain ring on the wall under the Orbea frame? Looks monsterous!
Thank you for the video. It is what I needed to know. I’m old, I’m fat, I’m not fit and newish to gravel riding in the hills. But I’m working on changing all that. I struggle on steep hills and it ends up as a very truly push-bike up the steep hills. I am losing weigh. Im getting stronger. However I need to get a better climbing gear. I have a 2019 specialized diverge E5 Elite. How do I go about getting compatible cassette or rings to replace what the bike came with as I work to improve? I was told that won’t work this won’t work but don’t why? I don’t care about upper end speed because I spend most of my time on the small ring. If you have any episodes that will help me, can you post their titles. Thanks for helping me find where to inform myself.
Find the model of rear derailleur, go to that manufacturers website and find out what is the largest cog it can handle. If your current cassette is smaller than that, fit the new larger one. Start there.
I have one bike with a truvativ 3x and another with a raceface 3x. Neither seem to offer replacement chainrings, so I bought a new Shimano Sora 3x
I have a 3x8 hybrid that I use as a road bike. I ride in hilly areas with lots of ups and downs. I get to use all 3 cranksets. I have been looking to switch to a road bike and have been looking for a classic road bike with a 3x8 groupset like the Trek 1000. I am not sure if there is a reason to switch to 2x. I am used to the 3x8. Does the 3x8 make more sense if most of my riding is in hilly terrain?
1x with a 34t chain ring and an 11-32 cassette on my gravel bike. I don't need to pedal beyond 45 kph; just trying to stay alive on the downhills. 2x on my road bike with compact CR; However, I never ride the 50/11 gear ratio. I may swap to a 46/30 sub compact on that bike.
I'm actually a big fan of 1x's. They're common on urban bikes as well. They contribute to a better look, but also offer a simple riding experience. You don't need to use two different shifters to get the right ratio, and you don't need to worry about using the correct front gear with the correct rear. I can sacrifice a few gear ratios in between and go with a 1x9 to 1x12 setup.
36/46 11-30 with a new long cage 105 rd, pretty quiet now. 62 km/h maxspeed is enough for me. I find the 46 way more usable, 52 was downhill only.
36/50 12-25 for me, but will go 1x with 11-28 eventually
I ride 2x12 on road racing bike, 2x10 on gravel bike and 2x11 on hardtail mtb bike ,
2x is better for different road conditions 1x is good just for one specyfic use like competitione track...
I have been trying all different drivetrains and in my opinion 2x is best,
In all my bikes I stick with shimano.
1x is perfect for flat roads in the city. 2x for long rides outside the city.
If I was much younger, fitter, stronger and lighter then a 2x would be the obvious choice for me. But since I'm not, I prefer the range that a 3x offers, basically all the gear ratios I'm ever likely to need with a 12-23 10 speed cassette. And if I'm tackling lots of steep climbs, I can always swap it for a 12-30 and I'm good.
The additional weight is of no concern to me especially given that losing weight would way more than offset this. Chain rubbing is a non-issue as I've got the front derailleur situated perfectly (took me many hours to get it just right when I fight built up the bike, but like a proper bike fit it was worth it and never has to be repeated). And I always have the right gear for whatever condition I face and cadence range I prefer.
Now younger, fitter, stronger and lighter riders who don't bikepack obviously don't need a 3x and maybe not even a 2x. But that ain't me, and a whole lot of riders. There's a bike for everyone, the magic of cycling.
I have the 3x cranksets 52/42/30 and a 10 speeds rear gear 25/11.
Folks need your valued/expert advise. I'm a mix of flat Urban terrain & Gravel/mild uphill Trial novice rider. Can you clarify which of the below two Crank set is best for a 3x9 or 3x10 rear cassette (both 11-32T)
CRANK: (48x36x26T) ?
or
CRANK: (24x34x42T) ?
Thanks 🤞🏼
So what’s the best teeth number in a 2x crankset for a flat bar ride bike to provide high speed?
I have on my bykes 3x,with 28/38/48 t,front ,and,11-46 rare ,it's nice lots of options for speed and clime in special for touring or comulting with heavy loads,luggage etc
My first road bike had 53/39 crank and 11-23 cassette. Initially the 39 was only used and I couldn't keep any pace to regular cycling friends thus cycling was a dull and boring exercise and a waste of life.
Enter a mountain bike, with low low gears and ability to explore mountain trails with ease, and suspension, and I was hooked.
Is it possible to change from a 3* to a single chain ring ?
And if it is, how do I get the same speeds as fast as I could propel on my biggest chainring on my 3 knowing the the single chainring comes smaller.
I just got a bigger ebike with 7 speed and dual motors. I need the option to pedal the bike if I lose power yet I also want the option to pedal my az off in higher gears along with electric power to haul az but I only have a 7 speed with single chainring. I'm in the process of upgrading to a 3 chainring set.
3:40 - and it does! Ours (3x9 on a tandem) survived 20000km of bashing in all weather [and terrain] conditions (dirt, snow, rain, dust, grass and bushes).
Unfortunately, Shimano has been moving away from "Octalink" standard in favor of a "two-piece design". That makes a tandem specific LHS captain crank setup impossible to implement.
4:05 - not necessarily [un]necessary... ;) Thanks to that, they wear slower. But indeed, the good quality 3x cranksets are a rarity now.
Change to the 2 pc crank but run the timing chain on the same side outside the drive chains. I did that on my tandem with a bit of chainring spacers and BB spacers. Check out Sheldon Browns tech website on tandem chainring options.
The other is to ditch the 3x setup and use the Sturmey-Archer IGH/Cassette combo. It is an IGH with a freehub. The IGH gives you 0.66/1.00/1.33 ratios multiplied to your selected cassette (1x with a hidden 3x) :P
@@lordalfa600 Thanks! I've forgotten about this SB's trick. But definitely will consider it.
The IGH solution is also interesting (as is its new "Confidential" reincarnation), however, we have three sets of wheels (for summer, for spring and autumn, and for winter, respectively ;) already and I would like to keep them.
My favourite bike has 2x but i want a 3x so i don't have to build up speed to get up some steep bankings on my routes. Can't justify replacing it until the current one is worn down enough though
Will the new hydraulic brakes work with the 11 speed shimano hydraulic shifters?
im building a trek marlon 6 blue, it has two chain rings on front from factory. i have changed the bottom bracket and have now fitted a 3 chain ring altus. do you think this is a bad idea, the bike will be for everyday use. i have not got cassette yet. any advice, please be gentle we all learnt somewhere. thankyou
Hear me out. One of my climbing road bike runs a shimano 52/34 front and 40-11 at the rear . Grx rear derailleur . Shifts perfectly even on a tight chain @52 40 . @ 34/40 you have a reduction gear ratio to climb anything and once you get to the top it spins out doing 52/11 @ 90kph on decent. This is the type of gearing they should be making for the masses. Weight penalty running this is 100 ish grams for the xt cassette over hg 800 34-11
I find the gears to be spaced too far apart on those wide ratio cassettes. I’m always wishing there were more gears on my 11-34 cassette but I like the wide range. Just my opinion!
@@Mattkb9 I'm not racing so works out for me .I don't need really tight gear jump. 40 is my bail out gear and the rest 11-35 is very similar to 11/34 . So it's like a 11 34 10 speed plus a bail out 40t gear. The ratio is actually not bad for the smaller gears very comparable to 11 34. Just look at the gear spec and you will understand. It's close at the smaller gear for flat coasting and gets wide for the last few low gears. Also with 52 front it makes them closer in ratio
I usually use 56t chainring and 13t sprocket. Sometimes, i use 56t and 9t when i need to overtake someone.
Yea. Im that good in my 14" folding bike. Hehehe
You had me in the 1st half lol
#askGCNtech
Currently riding on a 105 11-speed but am thinking of getting cheaper budget 10-speed rear wheel setup just for use on home turbo trainer just to "save" the rear wheel/tire? Can this combo work?
1x crankset humbling me lol. Got me thinking of going back to 3x, i got an 11-42t cassette and a 38t chainring. Just barely able to go at a good pace uphill, while having good speed downhill (but i always want a bit more lol)
Can you educate me on the BCD?
can you fit a 3x on a road bike, has i have just had a go on a mountain bike, and it was so easy to peddle on the little third ring.
3X BABY! Hail from the 90's!!
I use a 1x setup with 42 teeth and an 11speed 11-42 cassette on my gravel bike and it can handle almost anything I throw at it with the added benefit of a dropper post taking over what used to be the shifter for the chain ring. Do find myself running out of gears when going downhill though so may up it to a bigger chain ring in the future.
I did the opposite with a 34t 1x chain ring and 11-32 cassette. I had a 38t CR before and noticed that I never rode the 11t cog, rarely the 12t cog. I just coast on the downhills.
Which *one* is right for me? Obv 1x, it's there in the question
Anyone can help me ?
I'm newbie.. My home at hilly road. I use roadbike 1x8s 11-36 with 38 chainring 150km / week. I'm happy enough to use this setting can safely ride when come back to home but still can practice my cedence, i'm thinking to upgrade 11s to fill in gear ratio.
What u guys sugest for me, bigger chainring same sproket or what ? please tell me, i'm on budget
I ride an oval ring 48/52T 1x with ultegra 11 speed 11-32 on my carbon Trek and I can handle everything I need in flat flat Texas.
I run 11-42t /42t on both my gravel and road bike! 1x is just nicer to ride. Everyone’s counter is always “there’s a bigger jump in gears”.. if you’re that sensitive to this, then you’ve pro level tuned legs!
I've been wondering just how noticeable the "jumps" actually are. I think this most of come from some ex-pro rider, like a GCN presenter, doing a review and saying they noticed it, so now everyone parrots back that they notice it to
i didn´t noticed one disadvantage of 1by ... and that is that you have to shift all the cassette rings from both ends to reach the opposite... so you cant quickly go from hard ration to easy one when the hill suddenly change profile (you have to anticipate it) ... rather when using 2-by (or 3-by) you can reach much more suitable ratio (not perfect one) just by one click on cassette...
i would prefer 1-by when i expect to be climbing half of the track and then just descending the other half... but on constantly changing terraing i would stay with 2-by
It's a different technique, for sure
@@gcntech indeed :) cheers folks.. great content... keep on :)
I have a 3x set up and legitimately never use the lower gears. Just the 48t. But it seems all the 1by setups have 40t which seems far too. I'd be spinning for days.
I really only ride MTB and bmx. Been running 1x since my 07 Brodie omega xc bike
12 speed campagnolo is the best…it is so smooth and crisp.
The argument of the weight I find it a non issue. If you add a super wide cassette, with a bunch of gears, you end up as heavy as you were with a double or triple chain ring. So that is relative. It sure makes it simple; you are only using one shifter. Personally I like the two chain ring combination.
As much as i don't like the front derailleur i won't give up my 3x, it gives me access to a gear ratio for most occasions.
Why doesn't Shimano make smaller big chainrings for their road groupsets? I think I'm switching to scram.
3x hallowtech is d best all rounder💯💪
Hate that expensive bikes don't have the triple. Triple is so much more enjoyable
people starting in competitons and group rides gotta do what they gotta do. For all the rest 1x. It's just so much nicer to ride.
3x is dead and for good reason, I recently replaced a bunch of drivetrain bits and re-indexed a friends 2003 Trek, I got it running "perfect" but that still means chain rub tradeoffs and overlapped ratios, brought back bad memories of setting up my '90s mountain bike. Sure, it made sense 30 years ago when your rear cassette had 7 sprockets, but nowadays WHO wants to faff around with a 3x front derailleur like that???
There is no need for more than 2x (which makes front derailleur setup easy as pie) with modern cassettes.
I mostly ride a 1x cross bike as my do-it-all, and except for extreme inclines on trails I'm fine in the low, then on the road I'm spinning out at 35 mph. So yeah, on the road, go 2x. On the trails, recently rode a premium GRX 1x MTB, that's the way to go for XC (big pizza ring on the rear unlike my cross bike).
Alex should give fixies a shout, too. Really keeps the weight down and who doesn't like a bit of fun?
#AskGCNTech Hello, I use 34/50 chainrings on my road bike. How big of a difference can there be between the chainrings, for them still to work alright together. Let's say I would want it to be 25/50 or the other way around 34/55, or even like 25/55.
What's wrong with your 34/50?
16 is usually the biggest jump between Chainrings.
How much top speed do you lose when you go from 2x to 1x?
Lol I've upgraded all but the crankset & frame on my bike still the same 3x since i bought my GT avalanche back in 2007
1x would be a great set up for a TT bike