I'm a native French speaker. I went through 3 youtube tutorials in French without being able to understand how I should put the chain on the derailler. Before trying to look a tutorial in English, stumbled upon yours and finally got it! Thanks! You're a real life-saver!
One useful tip if you’re using a joining pin is to drive it into the chain from the inside. Although it’s not as easy to do, it shouldn’t be too difficult to position the chain and bike in a way that you can access it from the other side. The reason for this is, once you snap off the guide, it will leave a burr in the remaining rivet. If the burr is on the inside of the chain, it can scratch against a cassette gear when the chain is turning through the next lower gear. Driving the rivet from the inside will put the burr on the outside, and will prevent this from happening.
it would be really nice if GCN would do a video about building up a complete bike step by step... I mean they have videos for each part but it would be really cool to see it in one video. could be 2 hours long - i'd never mind, i'd love to watch this! thinking about building up my next bike myself
Couple of tips; Some chains have a specific outside and inside, so keep an eye out for that, and make sure you have them the right way around. If you don't have a quicklink or starter/guide pin, -when you shorten the chain, don't pop the pin all the way out; just push it far enough to let the inner link come away, but so that it stays in the outer link. This will make it about a million percent easier to re-link the chain. -and then when reinstalling the chain, set it up so that you can work the pin in from the outside of your bike, rather than the inside. For this last reason, combined with the one about side-specific chains, it might be worth your while when breaking the chain in the first place, to work the pin from the inside, out. This is very, very important especially if you're fixing your chain on the side of the road 20 miles from home.
Yep. Never push the pin all the way through. Never. Just don't. I just wasted an hour on countless attemps to get the pin right, and it just kept popping out. Thankfully i was on my balcony where it has no place to get lost in. But had i been in middle of nowhere on the side of the road, i would've no doubt lost it, and that would've been the end of my journey. So, moral of the story; never fuck around with chain pinns. They're really never your friends, and will always your worst nightmare if you let them. So please, keep your links in check. Saves time and nerves, that one.
I’m so grateful for these videos, I was about to use a chain tool on a chain that had a quick link in it before I saw this. I was able to replace my rear mech and adjust and index it using other other vids from this channel to guide me without any problems at all. Top work guys thanks.
Thanks Si. Here are some more tips that might be helpful to your viewers: 1 - Always wear gloves when working with the chain. Most of the bicycle chain lubricants are designed for weather-resistance. This means they stick really well and are difficult to clean off your hands. Using gloves keeps your hands clean but you have to keep the gloves pulled snug on your fingers so they aren't pinched and ripped by the chain. 2 - In my experience, you do not need to shift to the small chainring---you can shift the chain to the large chainring before removing it. This positions the chain where it is much easier to reach and the small amount of additional spring tension from the rear derailleur is minor compared to the easier access. Also, if you're like me and seldom use your small chainring and hate cleaning it (because it's difficult to reach), keeping the chain on the big chainring keeps oil away from the small one. 3 - Be very careful to avoid dropping or sliding the chain on the chain stay of your frame. It is very easy to scratch and chip the paint on your frame this way. This is my only criticism in an otherwise great video---when Si installed the new chain, he allowed the chain to slide along the chain stay as he threaded the chain on the rear cassette and derailleur---this is never a good idea. 4 - If you're removing a badly worn chain, it is probably a good idea to replace the rear cassette also (Si mentioned this in an earlier GCN video). The teeth on the sprockets will probably be worn from the old chain stretching and may not fit a new chain properly. Many experts say we should treat the cassette as a "consumable" the same as the chain. 5 - Always clean your cassette, rear derailleur guide wheels and chainrings before installing a new chain. 6 - It's usually best to lubricate the new chain after installation. Some new chains come pre-lubed and may not require this (as long as the factory lube is acceptable for your riding environment). If your new chain comes from the factory with a sticky anti-rust coating, you may need to clean off this coating before installing and lubing the new chain. There are a variety of ways to lube the chain. Which method you choose is a matter of personal preference, your riding environment and how often you clean your bike. The environmental conditions can be very important. One lube may work well in wet conditions and another may be much better for dry and sandy conditions. If you clean your bike frequently like Si does (after every ride), even a water displacement product with an integral short-lasting lube (like WD-40) may work well as long as it is applied frequently. My personal favorite is Park Tool CL-1 (a dedicated synthetic chain lube with reasonably-good weather resistance). 7 - What kind of chain to use? You could stay with the factory-recommended chain for your drivetrain. But there may be a good reason to switch to a different type. For example: If you ride in wet conditions, a nickel-plated chain will rust less. If you're trying to keep your weight down, a chain with hollow pins and links can save you 60 g or more. For example, a SRAM PC-850 with solid pins and links weighs 318 g while a SRAM PC-1091R with hollow pins and links weighs just 255 g (and the PC-1091R includes nickel plating). 8 - Si mentioned "quick links", the chain links that are designed to be installed and removed without a conventional chain pin tool. Depending on the make, these links have a variety of names such as "master links", KMC "missing links" and SRAM "powerlinks". Some are designed to be reusable and some are not. But I've found that most of them can be reused many times (regardless what the manufacturer says) and it helps to have a pair of master link pliers as Si showed (Park Tool MLP-1.2). I have single-use SRAM powerlinks that I've reused dozens of times with zero problems. I strongly recommend using master links because they allow your chain to be quickly removed, making its cleaning so much better. I ride about 150 miles per week along the eastern side of Lake Michigan in the U.S. and there is lots and lots of sand. Even though I ride my road bike on clean paved highways with wide shoulders, I get lots of sand in my drivetrain and this requires frequent cleaning to keep the drivetrain in top condition. An easy-to-remove master link makes this a quick task. Chain cleaning tools that clean your chain while it's on the bike, in my opinion, never do an adequate job.
D.Eldon Yes. And to remove "quick links" without specialized pliers you can fold the link and the adjacent one into a v on the big front ring and hit one side of the link (softly) with a hammer.
Global Cycling Network here's my question, and it's probably a stupid one. When you're putting the chain back on, and your putting it on the smallest gears, should your bike already be on a certain speed? I'm not sure if it should be 1,or 12. Or does it matter at all?
also- as a mechanic i'll add this... I dont use the old chain to compare, in case it was originally installed at the incorrect length. (i have seen many manufacturers and mechanics put a chain on too long/short) When installing a new chain, i go into the small/small gear combo, run the chain around and cut the chain at the point where the chain doesnt rub on the underside of the rear derailleur cage. This way it wont bind when you are in the big/big or small/small combo. Also, I check that length and determine where to cut by putting both ends on the chainring- this way, I have found, I dont fudge the length I need by moving the chain up/down/around, and dont accidentally cut the link in the wrong place. Also, in regard to many chains, they are directional. A good thing to remember with shimano chains is that if the shimano logo faces the outside of the bike, thats where it should be.
The most common reason for replacing a chain is because it has stretched. To allow for this I always double check by counting the number of links in the old and new chains and matching them rather than just relying on length. Really doesn't take very long (especially if you have the number of links in the old chain recorded somewhere)
Do chains stretch? I have been told that they don't. What happens is the links wear and the chain is not then tight on the sprockets. I am not sure about this but a worn chain will be the same length as a new one
@@SkillBuilder The proof that chains stretch is the existence of the chain checking tool (or how it's called in English). This tool's purpose is to look if a chain has been (over-) streched and needs to be replaced. My bike mechanic also told me to count the chain links when I change the chain.
When it happened to me it went more along the lines of “what the fuck?” (Pulls over and looks at bike, realises chain is 20 or so meters behind me on the ground) “oh for fucks sake are you fucking serious?” So yes fairly accurate indeed.
I never thought that I would need to see this video again, but low and behold, I was teaching myself to break down my bike and after I replaced the chain, I didn't route it correctly around one of the jockey wheels and I had contact. After seeing this video, I have everything back together as it goes. Thanks Simon!
Shouldn't you be inserting the pin from the inside of the chain and clipping it on the outside so that the extra bit that protrudes doesn't touch the adjacent gear on the rear wheel?
That's correct he did it wrong you always insert the pin from facing away from the bike, the way he did it in this video is a good chance the chain would come apart down the road
No matter how may times I change chains, I always come back to this video. My only suggestion is to buy an inexpensive chain pliers....makes locking in quick links that much easier. I agree...Si is so tranquil it's like the Bob Ross of chain replacement.
A double single malt whisky helped me do this, change a freewheel and true the rear wheel (as much as is needed before I put my bikes in for service) in 15 minutes
I straight up snapped my chain on my up bike and it's 3 days b4 my b day and I only had my bike for a month after I got my wheels trued w a shop it a piss take
"...but if you've got the bike in a work centre..." Actually I tend to lean the bike against a table or the side of the house to repair it. Also I don't have such a shiny bike or a spacious workshop with a full set of Park tools. I think someone should start a bike repair channel where the presenter is a middle-aged Dad trying to repair his kids' barely road-worthy bikes in the kitchen with totally inadequate tools while cursing...
The problem with those channels is they are low quality, and end up just using a big hammer and crowbar to remove all the parts! I'd happily start a channel of me trying to repair my kids bikes, but I'd quickly but a few special tools to make my life easier (and protect the bike). Sure, I can remove a crankset without a puller, but it may turn into waste metal that way. Thumbs up if you think I should start a "Dad repairing kids bikes with minimal tools" channel
One of the most useful lessons you can teach your kids is, use the right tool for the job. It will save them time, struggle, disappointment, possible injuries, and show them the importance of taking care of the work and themselves. And if you can't justify the cost of a tool that you may only use once or twice, let your LBS do it.
@@timwhite8 I think I would love to see some videos of that, I live in a very rural area, and I know we don't have all the fancy shmancy tools professionals use. So yeah, thumbs up from me!
Nice, really helpful, thanks. Not sure if you mentioned but - if you are using a quick link, you need to take one extra link out of the new chain (when sizing it next to the old one) as when you install the quick link it adds 1 link to the length of the chain : )
Thanks, this video helped me not throwing my bike through the garage out of frustration. Tip for the folks unable to attach the quicklinks to each other: apply pressure on the breaks and spin with one foot your pedals. Make sure that the quicklinks are perfectly in line with each other before you do this. Cheers.
How about a a video to fix a snapped chain by the roadside. Usually have a quick-link and a multi tool with a chain tool on it in my bag, but I've never had to use it on a ride.
Thanks Si. The Big Ring and Big Sprocket plus 2 links for chain sizing without existing chain was perfect. I was a bit doubtful, thinking it would be too short 😊 but it was spot on 👌
I didnt even watch this video before I started to fix my bike, but seems like I was only having trouble with the master link, I saw you use a wrench so I decided to get a wrench.... fixed!! Now I can go ride my bike!! Thanks!
Excellent video. Concise and to the point and explained in a fashion to be understandable to a neophyte such as myself. Watched some other videos and they all assumed a knowledge of bikes far beyond mine. Thank you.
I am a very serious cyclist and have been for 20 years.The mileage of a chain all depends on how well you look after it and how often you lube it.But I am one of these few that do serious maintenance on their bicycle,nearly all the time,it is a fact that a bicycle chain can last for 10,000 miles or beyond,without damaging the chainwheels or cassette,of course it will go eventually,but there are stages of wear that you must watch out for before it slips out of the chainwheel teeth,the first stage is when it starts to go further away from the left side pin,it can go up to 4mm,away until it needs replacing,(this is using the ruler measurement).The second stage is when daylight starts to show between the grooves,of the teeth.The third stage is when the bottom of the chain moves accessively up and down,and also slaps against the chainstays, while pedalling, do not let it reach this stage.This is the stage when it then starts to slip out of the chain,then the payload is seriously compromised.Every 250 miles I completely clean the chain,and clean between the rollers,then I relube the chain, on the chainwheels I clean them ,then put fresh grease on all the teeth,and along the sides of the chainwheels to prevent friction,as much as possible.I put lube on the chain after every ride,which is 30 miles a day.Since 1999,when I started I have logged every mileage and time.I hope this will help you serious cyclists out there!
Excellent video GCN. Before this video I had no idea how to change a chain and I just got back from replacing my chain which took less then 10 minutes.
Hi. I haven't got old chain so have used the measure and add 2 links method. Just wanted to know, if I use the quick link would this be as well as adding 2 links when i measure or should I just add 1
Si is definitely the "Bob Ross" of bike mech - makes it look so simple, calm and easy! Had he whacked the chain it would have been perfect! "Oh, let's give this missing link a happy little friend...remember: there are no mistakes, just happy accidents". Joke aside: excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
I have just picked up a bike from my local recycling centre that I am attempting to refurbish and this is exactly what I needed! Especially the part about not having your previous chain to measure against, the original was rusted solid and had to be removed using a cold rolled chisel and a hammer...
Simon, before watching this video, I was doing it all wrong. However now, after watching you in action Mate, I've learned how to correctly pull my chain just right, thanks :)
I assume that new pin for connection of the new chain comes in the box with the new chain? If reinstalling the original chain, do you need to buy a new pin?
Thanks for all ur vids great help, do have a question if u don't mind, I replaced my jockey wheels few months ago and I had a mega problem getting it all back together and that was due to my derailleur, as soon as I took my chain off my derailleur sprung clock wise which loosened that spring that keeps tension on the derailleur, I've never had that happen to me before on any bike and most vids I watch it don't happen so wondering if there's anything wrong wiv mine, I managed to turn the derailleur anticlockwise untill there was enough tension on my chain, but ever since then it's never felt right , not sure if I've overstretched the spring on the derailleur or what, like in this vid when you take your chain off your derailleur didn't spring it self loose clock wise. Any advice wud be grateful. Thanks Matt
I found the "how to fit a chain" very helpful i just got to get the gears sorted now, I got friction gears one is indexed any ideas on how to set them up?
Can you join 2 partial chains together (in a pinch)? How do you tell if your bicycle has a Shimano chain or a different chain? Is there a difference between Shimano pins and different chain pins (not quick link)? Or, does "Shimano chain" refer to all chains that have a pin system instead of a quick release system?
I had to open a quick link without a tool and couldn't get it with just my hands. My improvised solution - take a piece of small-ish solid wire and route it through the two links on either side of the quick link, then use pliers to twist the two ends together until the quick link opens.
Probably worth mentioning that if you're not using a shimano break pin or a quick link, and you want to make a "solid chain", then don't push the pin all the way out. Only far enough for it to sperate. That way you can connect it up easily, plus it's nigh on impossible to reconnect if you've pushed it all the way out.
***** Yeah they do, but sometimes people don't want to use them, they'd rather not use a "quick link". It makes sense to have them, but it's just an extra comment. Also useful if you've only got a solid chain and you need to just take it apart temporarily for replacing a derailleur or something :)
Been fortunate enough to have never broken a chain on a ride. Is it due to the strength of the Rohloff SLT 99 chains that I have been using since 1989 or my personal weakness? Not sure but this year will be the first time that I will be equipping my oldest bike with a Regina extra chain. NOS probably from the early 90s.
Great videos, thank. I just installed a new dura ace 11 speed chain, I have the writing on the chain facing out. But I think I put the chain upside down??? The writing is upside down. Or does it matter. Please help
5:15 I can not recommend to use pliers, either you won't get to break the pin, you may break it at the wrong point or you damage the pliers. If you use the back of the chain tool (which you used to drive the pin in) there should be a hole designed to fit the pin. if you then move the pin in it and move the chain and chain tool into opposite directions it will actually break easily.
I bought a 6/7/8 speed chain even though my bike only has 5 cogs on the back. I just couldn't find a 5 speed chain. Should work right? . I can't imagine the chain being thicker because of 1 gear difference. I'll find out in a couple days either way!
It will work with no problems. One generation gap up chain will work flawlessly (example: 6/7/8 speed chain on 5 speed block). I've read this on Sheldon's Brown website (Super famous bike mechanic) and have done it myself. Enjoy your ride!
Is it okay to use a type of chainbreaker where the chain isnt fully leaning against the back wall it's being pushed against? Or will that make the chain skew?
I have the opposite problem. My original chain is very long and I can't find one with that size that doesn't break the bank. Can I use 2 shorter chains and connect them using 2 master links? I don't like the Shimano connection pin.
Thanks for correcting the video Si, much better with the chain being shown threaded above the pin in the cage. Saves a lot of hassle, speaking from experience.
I have heard that cassette should be changed at same time as chain. What are suggestions on this? Change at same time? or chain as required? and cassette on it's own schedule?
Im revamping my old mtb and my chain has never been replaced (5 years) is it worth changing the cassette and front cogs as well? equal wear and all that . . .
I have a chain that doesn't have a quick release, however, I'm needing to remove the chain to replace the rear mech. I was wondering can I install a quick release chainlink to reattach the chain? Would I have to remove a link before I do that? If I simply added a quick link, would the chain then become too long if I didn't? Cheers.
I did it! I replaced my own chain! You just saved me $130 now I’m not dependent on my local overpriced bike shop
I'm a native French speaker. I went through 3 youtube tutorials in French without being able to understand how I should put the chain on the derailler. Before trying to look a tutorial in English, stumbled upon yours and finally got it!
Thanks! You're a real life-saver!
lovely. have a great ride !
One useful tip if you’re using a joining pin is to drive it into the chain from the inside. Although it’s not as easy to do, it shouldn’t be too difficult to position the chain and bike in a way that you can access it from the other side. The reason for this is, once you snap off the guide, it will leave a burr in the remaining rivet. If the burr is on the inside of the chain, it can scratch against a cassette gear when the chain is turning through the next lower gear. Driving the rivet from the inside will put the burr on the outside, and will prevent this from happening.
.v..v.
Literally read that as i snapped it off......on the inside
it would be really nice if GCN would do a video about building up a complete bike step by step... I mean they have videos for each part but it would be really cool to see it in one video. could be 2 hours long - i'd never mind, i'd love to watch this! thinking about building up my next bike myself
Another top video guys. I built a bike with zero experience using only your how to videos.. It's still going strong.
Mate you're experienced as fuck now
Neil McRobie wow
Neil McRobie i built a bike when i was 12 no joke
+Khan Khan so what ?.
I was 9'10 but this guy just showed me something new " and why you watching this on RUclips for ???.
knob head !!!!
@@KhanKhan-dr5ic Big deal. I assembled a bike while in the womb and rode out of my mum's fanny. Even managed a rolling stoppie.
This was the first time changing my bike chain so this tutorial was incredibly useful!
Couple of tips;
Some chains have a specific outside and inside, so keep an eye out for that, and make sure you have them the right way around.
If you don't have a quicklink or starter/guide pin,
-when you shorten the chain, don't pop the pin all the way out; just push it far enough to let the inner link come away, but so that it stays in the outer link. This will make it about a million percent easier to re-link the chain.
-and then when reinstalling the chain, set it up so that you can work the pin in from the outside of your bike, rather than the inside. For this last reason, combined with the one about side-specific chains, it might be worth your while when breaking the chain in the first place, to work the pin from the inside, out.
This is very, very important especially if you're fixing your chain on the side of the road 20 miles from home.
Great comment - this sounds like 'experience is expensive' knowledge - much appreciated.
Read this just too late, popped out the pin completely, hell to get it back in
Some excellent advice many thanks.
@@samhendriks2732 Same. I just did this and keep cussing. 🤣
Yep. Never push the pin all the way through. Never. Just don't.
I just wasted an hour on countless attemps to get the pin right, and it just kept popping out.
Thankfully i was on my balcony where it has no place to get lost in. But had i been in middle of nowhere on the side of the road, i would've no doubt lost it, and that would've been the end of my journey.
So, moral of the story; never fuck around with chain pinns. They're really never your friends, and will always your worst nightmare if you let them.
So please, keep your links in check. Saves time and nerves, that one.
Sometimes a naturally gifted educator comes along and this guy is it. One of the best.
I’m so grateful for these videos, I was about to use a chain tool on a chain that had a quick link in it before I saw this.
I was able to replace my rear mech and adjust and index it using other other vids from this channel to guide me without any problems at all.
Top work guys thanks.
Thanks Si. Here are some more tips that might be helpful to your viewers:
1 - Always wear gloves when working with the chain. Most of the bicycle chain lubricants are designed for weather-resistance. This means they stick really well and are difficult to clean off your hands. Using gloves keeps your hands clean but you have to keep the gloves pulled snug on your fingers so they aren't pinched and ripped by the chain.
2 - In my experience, you do not need to shift to the small chainring---you can shift the chain to the large chainring before removing it. This positions the chain where it is much easier to reach and the small amount of additional spring tension from the rear derailleur is minor compared to the easier access. Also, if you're like me and seldom use your small chainring and hate cleaning it (because it's difficult to reach), keeping the chain on the big chainring keeps oil away from the small one.
3 - Be very careful to avoid dropping or sliding the chain on the chain stay of your frame. It is very easy to scratch and chip the paint on your frame this way. This is my only criticism in an otherwise great video---when Si installed the new chain, he allowed the chain to slide along the chain stay as he threaded the chain on the rear cassette and derailleur---this is never a good idea.
4 - If you're removing a badly worn chain, it is probably a good idea to replace the rear cassette also (Si mentioned this in an earlier GCN video). The teeth on the sprockets will probably be worn from the old chain stretching and may not fit a new chain properly. Many experts say we should treat the cassette as a "consumable" the same as the chain.
5 - Always clean your cassette, rear derailleur guide wheels and chainrings before installing a new chain.
6 - It's usually best to lubricate the new chain after installation. Some new chains come pre-lubed and may not require this (as long as the factory lube is acceptable for your riding environment). If your new chain comes from the factory with a sticky anti-rust coating, you may need to clean off this coating before installing and lubing the new chain. There are a variety of ways to lube the chain. Which method you choose is a matter of personal preference, your riding environment and how often you clean your bike. The environmental conditions can be very important. One lube may work well in wet conditions and another may be much better for dry and sandy conditions. If you clean your bike frequently like Si does (after every ride), even a water displacement product with an integral short-lasting lube (like WD-40) may work well as long as it is applied frequently. My personal favorite is Park Tool CL-1 (a dedicated synthetic chain lube with reasonably-good weather resistance).
7 - What kind of chain to use? You could stay with the factory-recommended chain for your drivetrain. But there may be a good reason to switch to a different type. For example: If you ride in wet conditions, a nickel-plated chain will rust less. If you're trying to keep your weight down, a chain with hollow pins and links can save you 60 g or more. For example, a SRAM PC-850 with solid pins and links weighs 318 g while a SRAM PC-1091R with hollow pins and links weighs just 255 g (and the PC-1091R includes nickel plating).
8 - Si mentioned "quick links", the chain links that are designed to be installed and removed without a conventional chain pin tool. Depending on the make, these links have a variety of names such as "master links", KMC "missing links" and SRAM "powerlinks". Some are designed to be reusable and some are not. But I've found that most of them can be reused many times (regardless what the manufacturer says) and it helps to have a pair of master link pliers as Si showed (Park Tool MLP-1.2). I have single-use SRAM powerlinks that I've reused dozens of times with zero problems. I strongly recommend using master links because they allow your chain to be quickly removed, making its cleaning so much better. I ride about 150 miles per week along the eastern side of Lake Michigan in the U.S. and there is lots and lots of sand. Even though I ride my road bike on clean paved highways with wide shoulders, I get lots of sand in my drivetrain and this requires frequent cleaning to keep the drivetrain in top condition. An easy-to-remove master link makes this a quick task. Chain cleaning tools that clean your chain while it's on the bike, in my opinion, never do an adequate job.
D.Eldon Yes. And to remove "quick links" without specialized pliers you can fold the link and the adjacent one into a v on the big front ring and hit one side of the link (softly) with a hammer.
One last thing. Some chains need to have a particular side facing outward. Do be aware of that.
Very good job with the suggestions👍
This video, plus your other chain fixing vids has educated me and saved my riding life! Many thank yous!
Our pleasure.
Global Cycling Network here's my question, and it's probably a stupid one. When you're putting the chain back on, and your putting it on the smallest gears, should your bike already be on a certain speed? I'm not sure if it should be 1,or 12. Or does it matter at all?
it would be easiest to fit the chain in the smallest chainring and smallest (lowest teeth number) rear sprocket.
also- as a mechanic i'll add this... I dont use the old chain to compare, in case it was originally installed at the incorrect length. (i have seen many manufacturers and mechanics put a chain on too long/short) When installing a new chain, i go into the small/small gear combo, run the chain around and cut the chain at the point where the chain doesnt rub on the underside of the rear derailleur cage. This way it wont bind when you are in the big/big or small/small combo. Also, I check that length and determine where to cut by putting both ends on the chainring- this way, I have found, I dont fudge the length I need by moving the chain up/down/around, and dont accidentally cut the link in the wrong place. Also, in regard to many chains, they are directional. A good thing to remember with shimano chains is that if the shimano logo faces the outside of the bike, thats where it should be.
The most common reason for replacing a chain is because it has stretched. To allow for this I always double check by counting the number of links in the old and new chains and matching them rather than just relying on length. Really doesn't take very long (especially if you have the number of links in the old chain recorded somewhere)
Do chains stretch? I have been told that they don't. What happens is the links wear and the chain is not then tight on the sprockets. I am not sure about this but a worn chain will be the same length as a new one
@@SkillBuilder The proof that chains stretch is the existence of the chain checking tool (or how it's called in English). This tool's purpose is to look if a chain has been (over-) streched and needs to be replaced.
My bike mechanic also told me to count the chain links when I change the chain.
0:06 Perfect demo
misterfunnybones that happens to me yesterday in the middle of the street
otonas balikas happened to me today
Oi
Happened to me earlier today - word perfect
When it happened to me it went more along the lines of “what the fuck?” (Pulls over and looks at bike, realises chain is 20 or so meters behind me on the ground) “oh for fucks sake are you fucking serious?”
So yes fairly accurate indeed.
So refreshing to see a mechanical video done by someone professional - thanks!
I never thought that I would need to see this video again, but low and behold, I was teaching myself to break down my bike and after I replaced the chain, I didn't route it correctly around one of the jockey wheels and I had contact. After seeing this video, I have everything back together as it goes. Thanks Simon!
Cheers! 5 years later this just helped me change my first chain after snapping one for the first time also.
Great to hear!
Shouldn't you be inserting the pin from the inside of the chain and clipping it on the outside so that the extra bit that protrudes doesn't touch the adjacent gear on the rear wheel?
That's correct he did it wrong you always insert the pin from facing away from the bike, the way he did it in this video is a good chance the chain would come apart down the road
no
Third way to remove chain: pick it up off the pavement.
Same 😂😂
that sucks! happened to me last nigt... f^%$!!!!!
Just happened to me today
Happened to me yesterday haha
Yesterday was my first experience of this and today will be my first experience of installing a new one.
No matter how may times I change chains, I always come back to this video. My only suggestion is to buy an inexpensive chain pliers....makes locking in quick links that much easier. I agree...Si is so tranquil it's like the Bob Ross of chain replacement.
Simon should run Chain Replacement As Stress Therapy Classes. This is so... tranquil.
Totally agree and he is good!
There is nothing tranquil about the actual process however... but I will look through this video at least twice before I menace the next new chain. :(
A double single malt whisky helped me do this, change a freewheel and true the rear wheel (as much as is needed before I put my bikes in for service) in 15 minutes
انت صح 🙀👩🙈👩
I straight up snapped my chain on my up bike and it's 3 days b4 my b day and I only had my bike for a month after I got my wheels trued w a shop it a piss take
Awesome straight forward professional instructions. Rebuilding my bike and loving these videos!
"...but if you've got the bike in a work centre..."
Actually I tend to lean the bike against a table or the side of the house to repair it. Also I don't have such a shiny bike or a spacious workshop with a full set of Park tools. I think someone should start a bike repair channel where the presenter is a middle-aged Dad trying to repair his kids' barely road-worthy bikes in the kitchen with totally inadequate tools while cursing...
The problem with those channels is they are low quality, and end up just using a big hammer and crowbar to remove all the parts! I'd happily start a channel of me trying to repair my kids bikes, but I'd quickly but a few special tools to make my life easier (and protect the bike). Sure, I can remove a crankset without a puller, but it may turn into waste metal that way. Thumbs up if you think I should start a "Dad repairing kids bikes with minimal tools" channel
One of the most useful lessons you can teach your kids is, use the right tool for the job. It will save them time, struggle, disappointment, possible injuries, and show them the importance of taking care of the work and themselves. And if you can't justify the cost of a tool that you may only use once or twice, let your LBS do it.
@@timwhite8 I think I would love to see some videos of that, I live in a very rural area, and I know we don't have all the fancy shmancy tools professionals use. So yeah, thumbs up from me!
I’d watch that!!!
Well come and film me
Nice, really helpful, thanks. Not sure if you mentioned but - if you are using a quick link, you need to take one extra link out of the new chain (when sizing it next to the old one) as when you install the quick link it adds 1 link to the length of the chain : )
Thanks, this video helped me not throwing my bike through the garage out of frustration.
Tip for the folks unable to attach the quicklinks to each other: apply pressure on the breaks and spin with one foot your pedals. Make sure that the quicklinks are perfectly in line with each other before you do this. Cheers.
Great job Simon. Clear directions and well presented. Thank you!
The first "replace chain" video that has made any sense to me....thanks.
mywife bought a secondhand bike yesterday that needed work. your videos made it a lot easier for a non cyclist to fix a bike
How about a a video to fix a snapped chain by the roadside. Usually have a quick-link and a multi tool with a chain tool on it in my bag, but I've never had to use it on a ride.
Thanks Si. The Big Ring and Big Sprocket plus 2 links for chain sizing without existing chain was perfect. I was a bit doubtful, thinking it would be too short 😊 but it was spot on 👌
Great video. Didn’t realise width of chain is narrower the more gears you have. Every days a school day. Thanks
I didnt even watch this video before I started to fix my bike, but seems like I was only having trouble with the master link, I saw you use a wrench so I decided to get a wrench.... fixed!! Now I can go ride my bike!! Thanks!
Excellent video. Concise and to the point and explained in a fashion to be understandable to a neophyte such as myself. Watched some other videos and they all assumed a knowledge of bikes far beyond mine. Thank you.
Great How To...I have watched Dan snapping his chain about 30 times and had a hysterical laugh session after a long day at work. Chapeau Boss, chapeau
I am a very serious cyclist and have been for 20 years.The mileage of a chain all depends on how well you look after it and how often you lube it.But I am one of these few that do serious maintenance on their bicycle,nearly all the time,it is a fact that a bicycle chain can last for 10,000 miles or beyond,without damaging the chainwheels or cassette,of course it will go eventually,but there are stages of wear that you must watch out for before it slips out of the chainwheel teeth,the first stage is when it starts to go further away from the left side pin,it can go up to 4mm,away until it needs replacing,(this is using the ruler measurement).The second stage is when daylight starts to show between the grooves,of the teeth.The third stage is when the bottom of the chain moves accessively up and down,and also slaps against the chainstays, while pedalling, do not let it reach this stage.This is the stage when it then starts to slip out of the chain,then the payload is seriously compromised.Every 250 miles I completely clean the chain,and clean between the rollers,then I relube the chain, on the chainwheels I clean them ,then put fresh grease on all the teeth,and along the sides of the chainwheels to prevent friction,as much as possible.I put lube on the chain after every ride,which is 30 miles a day.Since 1999,when I started I have logged every mileage and time.I hope this will help you serious cyclists out there!
my bike chain is a horror story to you :(
Excellent video GCN. Before this video I had no idea how to change a chain and I just got back from replacing my chain which took less then 10 minutes.
is there any disadvantage to using a quick link?
Hi. I haven't got old chain so have used the measure and add 2 links method. Just wanted to know, if I use the quick link would this be as well as adding 2 links when i measure or should I just add 1
+Iain Smith
Pick up the new chain, measure your length, add 2 more links and than replace one wide link with the quick link.
+JoJanDiezel
Thanks. that makes sense
do 70 pound e bikes use the same chains in general as a regular bike with same gear set up ?... thanks great video good info
Si is definitely the "Bob Ross" of bike mech - makes it look so simple, calm and easy! Had he whacked the chain it would have been perfect! "Oh, let's give this missing link a happy little friend...remember: there are no mistakes, just happy accidents". Joke aside: excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
I have just picked up a bike from my local recycling centre that I am attempting to refurbish and this is exactly what I needed! Especially the part about not having your previous chain to measure against, the original was rusted solid and had to be removed using a cold rolled chisel and a hammer...
Thanks GCN for putting this one up. Followed Simon's instructions and am a very happy rider once again.
Oooh an anodised cable end cap. Your time in Italy at the giro has made you sophisticated!
Just did this to clean my chain. Looks brand new. Great video
Thanks very much for this video. Changed my cassette to a 12-25 and popped in a new chain with your videos. Keep it up
Watch this once through. Then use it step by step and it is as easy as falling off a bike. Thanks again GCN
Such great videos especially for us newbies into road biking . Thanks a million
thanks to your video i have managed to save time and money fixing my chain myself thanks to you guys and keep up the good work!!
Thank you soo much GCN. All your videos are helpful - i’m learning to do all the work on my road bike. Legends.
Simon, before watching this video, I was doing it all wrong. However now, after watching you in action Mate, I've learned how to correctly pull my chain just right, thanks :)
Thanks! My dad put a lock on my chain and forgot to take it off before he left. I had soccer practice and didn't have a ride! lifesaver
these videos are a great resource to come back to.
Very helpful video. Please can I get a link to this exact pair of pliers. I need to remove my chain link to better clean it.
I assume that new pin for connection of the new chain comes in the box with the new chain? If reinstalling the original chain, do you need to buy a new pin?
Very simple. He was quick and thorough. Painless! Thanks
Thanks, I needed this. My chain crapped out during lock down.
This comment, contains 1 million thank you's, for all the helpful tips you guys have given!!!!
Thank you!
Someone said if the pin is all the way out of the chain to throw the chain away. This video restores faith that I can use that tool! Thx.
Thanks for all ur vids great help, do have a question if u don't mind, I replaced my jockey wheels few months ago and I had a mega problem getting it all back together and that was due to my derailleur, as soon as I took my chain off my derailleur sprung clock wise which loosened that spring that keeps tension on the derailleur, I've never had that happen to me before on any bike and most vids I watch it don't happen so wondering if there's anything wrong wiv mine, I managed to turn the derailleur anticlockwise untill there was enough tension on my chain, but ever since then it's never felt right , not sure if I've overstretched the spring on the derailleur or what, like in this vid when you take your chain off your derailleur didn't spring it self loose clock wise. Any advice wud be grateful. Thanks Matt
I found the "how to fit a chain" very helpful
i just got to get the gears sorted now, I got friction gears one is indexed any ideas on how to set them up?
Thank you. Took me roughly 2 hours, but I changed my bike chain. Also learnt how to change a bike chain
I wish I had watched this before I changed my chain, yesterday. I knew the basics, but this would have made it easier.
Thank you so much for this! Changed my bike chain all by myself with the help of your tutorial 😊
LOB X
Very helpful. You made it simple. I replace my chain the hard way. Turns out I had a quick link the entire time....Doh!!
Can you join 2 partial chains together (in a pinch)? How do you tell if your bicycle has a Shimano chain or a different chain? Is there a difference between Shimano pins and different chain pins (not quick link)? Or, does "Shimano chain" refer to all chains that have a pin system instead of a quick release system?
And do chain repair kits come with new pins?
Is it ok to reuse a chain but 1 link shorter, if it breaks?
Very good guide. Simple and thorough.
I had to open a quick link without a tool and couldn't get it with just my hands. My improvised solution - take a piece of small-ish solid wire and route it through the two links on either side of the quick link, then use pliers to twist the two ends together until the quick link opens.
I have a derailleur with a really short arm and compact body, should i still add the two standard rivits?
Great video, clear, succinct and no nonsense straight to the point!
Probably worth mentioning that if you're not using a shimano break pin or a quick link, and you want to make a "solid chain", then don't push the pin all the way out. Only far enough for it to sperate. That way you can connect it up easily, plus it's nigh on impossible to reconnect if you've pushed it all the way out.
***** Yeah they do, but sometimes people don't want to use them, they'd rather not use a "quick link". It makes sense to have them, but it's just an extra comment. Also useful if you've only got a solid chain and you need to just take it apart temporarily for replacing a derailleur or something :)
This is like the most soothing thing you can do with your bike
Been fortunate enough to have never broken a chain on a ride. Is it due to the strength of the Rohloff SLT 99 chains that I have been using since 1989 or my personal weakness? Not sure but this year will be the first time that I will be equipping my oldest bike with a Regina extra chain. NOS probably from the early 90s.
Does the two link rule for length still apply to long cage rear derailleurs?
Just replaced my chain with your help. Thanks GCN!
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced my chain.
@GCN your tutorials are really good. Thansk for saving me a lot of blood, sweat and tears!
This is by far the best bike related tutorial I've seen so far on youtube, great job!
Much appreciated for video! Found GCN a great help and is good to learn new things!
Great videos, thank. I just installed a new dura ace 11 speed chain, I have the writing on the chain facing out. But I think I put the chain upside down??? The writing is upside down. Or does it matter. Please help
When you add two links and a quick link, is that still correct because thats 3 added. Thank you.
Can I use a quick link to join a chain that was previously joined by a rivet?
Just want to say thank you, replacing my sisters chain today :)
for re-sizing the chain, thats that two link method work, when having a long cage rear-mech? i run a compact and 11-32. thanks very much.
Just cleaning my chain, want to take it off, have a quick link. Can I reuse the quick link? Or should I buy new??
5:15 I can not recommend to use pliers, either you won't get to break the pin, you may break it at the wrong point or you damage the pliers. If you use the back of the chain tool (which you used to drive the pin in) there should be a hole designed to fit the pin. if you then move the pin in it and move the chain and chain tool into opposite directions it will actually break easily.
my one snapped just before the main section made it into the chain 😢
I bought a 6/7/8 speed chain even though my bike only has 5 cogs on the back. I just couldn't find a 5 speed chain. Should work right? . I can't imagine the chain being thicker because of 1 gear difference. I'll find out in a couple days either way!
It will work with no problems. One generation gap up chain will work flawlessly (example: 6/7/8 speed chain on 5 speed block).
I've read this on Sheldon's Brown website (Super famous bike mechanic) and have done it myself. Enjoy your ride!
Is it okay to use a type of chainbreaker where the chain isnt fully leaning against the back wall it's being pushed against? Or will that make the chain skew?
Can I remove chain links then add my previous quick link in order to make the chain smaller?
Thanks so much for your thorough video, I have the confidence now to tackle this basic maintenance task myself!
I have the opposite problem. My original chain is very long and I can't find one with that size that doesn't break the bank. Can I use 2 shorter chains and connect them using 2 master links? I don't like the Shimano connection pin.
Best explanation on chain replacement, ever.
excellent explanation thanks
Thanks. Is it advisable to change your chain when you need to change your cassette? Thanks. Nicolas.
Thanks for correcting the video Si, much better with the chain being shown threaded above the pin in the cage. Saves a lot of hassle, speaking from experience.
Could you do some videos on tt maintenance?
Hi chaps, when measuring a new SRAM chain do I knock off a link to account for the power link or just add it to the same length as before?
I have heard that cassette should be changed at same time as chain. What are suggestions on this? Change at same time? or chain as required? and cassette on it's own schedule?
Im revamping my old mtb and my chain has never been replaced (5 years) is it worth changing the cassette and front cogs as well? equal wear and all that . . .
I have a chain that doesn't have a quick release, however, I'm needing to remove the chain to replace the rear mech. I was wondering can I install a quick release chainlink to reattach the chain? Would I have to remove a link before I do that? If I simply added a quick link, would the chain then become too long if I didn't? Cheers.
Absolutely brilliant advice. Fixed straight away. Thank you GCN
Brilliant, couldn't have explained it better. Video close ups excellent also.