A reason why the chainring is small is to get you home if the bike malfunctions or runs out of battery. Many people won’t be able to pedal that 58 on a dead bike. So then you need to change the cassette to one with a climbing gear. Just something to keep in mind. I had to limp mine home a mile when I had a sensor go out.
Yes, it is,manufacturers set these things up for the middle of the road, but if your anything like me and run a little bit faster. You’re a ghost paddling at 15 mph. I’ve got a 26 inch bike set up so that I’m not ghost pedaling till after 32 mph makes me do a lot more shifting which I don’t mind.
I agree. I just changed out a 14 tooth with an 11 tooth gear. I also replaced the 42t crankset with a 48t. These two mods are games changing. But like you were saying, this guy assumed too much.
Hi Gary a neighbor from the north here. My e bike has a stock freewheel of 14-34 and to change to a new freewheel of 11-34 is a big improvement to minimize ghost pedeling. I am ok with the stock front crank ring. Good videos Have a nice day. Tom up in Canada in the Maritimes at the NB-NS border.
When I switched out my cranks, I changed out chainring to a 69t Driveline. My tiny Swagtron EB7 used to top out at 18.6. Changing some P settings, performing a shunt mod, & the larger chainring means I’m ghost pedaling after 28.4mph. 72v conversion coming soon to replace the lethargic 36v system.
Can't imagine needing more than a 52t chain ring with 11t high gear on the cassette to hit 28mph. And that's if a 52t will fit on your bike. It may hit your chain stay before you can get it all the way on. Not all chainstays are shaped the same. A bigger chainring will give you more top end speed on flatter ground but can also make it tougher to get up hills unless you got some good motor power. So it's a trade off. All depends on what kind of riding you do the most.
I’m currently have six eBikes only two run the 58 t Both are set up for street riding plus I run 34t on the low end on the free wheel if my bike craps out I’m calling my wife to bring my car with the bike rack on it.😀
Great to know when we get e-bikes. Trying to decide which ones to get. We have lot of trails, dirt roads, hills, etc in Alabama. Would like it to go through sand good when I go to South Florida. Thanks for the video.💥🚴🏻♀️😎
I’ve heard that the bigger front gear makes it difficult to peddle the bike At lower speeds. Can u confirm this or share some information on this. Thanks.
My e-bike came stock with a 42T chainring and a 14-28 freewheel. Ghost peddling started around 20 mph. To make matters worse, it has a torque sensor which I love but was useless once the ghost peddling started. The torque sensor requires pressure from the peddles to call power from the e-motor. No pressure sensed (ghost peddling) no power assist. It was impossible to see that class 3 28 mph the the bike was capable of without peddling like a mad man with the torque sensor due to the ghost peddling. According to the cycle/gear charts, it would take a cadence of 105 to achieve 28 mph. That's unreasonable and unacceptable. So I replaced the 42T chainring with a 52T one, and the 14-28 freewheel with a 11-34 one. My 1st gear ratio is the same as the original so no change there. But my final drive, 7th gear is way better. My new 4th gear is about the same as my old 7th gear. Ghost peddling has been completely eliminated so I now get power from the motor all the way up to 28 mph. And when I get there, my cadence is only 65. Perfect. 🙂
Ya it’s crazy the gears they put on these bikes, I get not every one wants to ride fast, but I have reviewed many bikes that a 15 mph are ghost peddling. Glad to hear you have it a lot better now.
If everyone is going to 11 tooth freewheels or cassettes, there may be a reason... Dropping a tooth on the high end of the freewheel is roughly the same as adding four teeth to the chainring. It's just math. (Chainring Teeth / Cog Teeth) x Rear Wheel Diameter = Gear Inches. Gear inches determine how far your bike will roll forward for each revolution of the crank. This is why 20 inch bikes will have larger chain rings than bikes with larger wheels, like 26 inch or 700c. E-bikes should ideally have a fairly wide range of gears. You need low gears because you may be pedaling that heavy bastard up a hill with no battery power at some point - and you need high gears to assure you can add some pedal power at top speed without spinning your cranks at an unreasonable cadence.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures - Yup. Wheel size is part of the formula, and as soon as I saw that 58 tooth chain ring, I said, "I bet he has a 20 inch bike." That's why, if you wanted to go racing a few years ago, you needed a really big front wheel, which is the stereotypical penny-farthing bike that we see in period movies and old photos. Actually most Victorian folks opted for something more sensibly closer to a 45 inch front wheel, but, as usual, racing bikes got all the media. Front derailleurs seem to be going the way of the dodo, which I think is a shame, because that's another good way to get to a wider gear range.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures - Hmmm. Could you even get a front derailleur clamped to the Lectra seat tube? I looked into the Schlumpf drive. I've seen it on a couple of recumbents, because recumbent riders are also desperate for wider gearing. But I couldn't get the numbers to add up - the best offer I could get for one of my aging kidneys on the organ black market wouldn't cover the cost of the Schlumpf.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures This worked great, thanks and great video. Was able to use the Lectric on a Huffy folder too. Those quick release mounts were really loctited good from factory! This is fantastic, if needed a smaller chain ring is a quick change and away you go!
What i just see... front chairing uppgrade from 50 to 55 gets gear ratio up by 10% and change a casette small ring from 14 to 11 ingease it about 30% without degrease ground clearanse and no need to extend chain. There is lot of charts and calculators to count you gear ratios and speed vs cadece in different combinations. So if you want go fast without spinning like crazy change caset instead of front chainwheel. It is just math and physic.
I also changed the Freewheel to a 11/34 T and I went from 52 to 58 on crank set so 1st gear would not engage as the derailer was all the way the way forward at its stop
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures Ground clearance comes from lowest part of a bike, but not pedals pr sidestand. Usually when driving in hard terrain and drive over rocks and roots you will be standing on bike and pedas are in horizontal position. But normaly these kind of tunings are not made for forrest trails. I made mine eb a commuter and chargo bike. I pull trailer with solarpanel on it and so on. Even camping gears. I also change oval chain wheels in front to get more torque with 175mm cranks. Those ovals make a hughe difference for hill climbing and forrest.
@@timppako80 Yeah sounds like you have a lot of fun with your E-Bike. I think most E-Bikes would fall apart fast on rough trails’ I hit a rail trail once in a while, but I am mostly on the road doing 25 to 40 miles an hour, I do have a mid- drive bike that is set up better for the trails but nothing too rocky
Those fold up peddle are of interest to me. Where can I find those? Also looking for some 10 in X3 inch tubeless tires for an e-scooter. Current ones are 2 ply, I want 4 ply, and if a higher profile adding to the circumference, so much the better. I am in Costa Rica and many uphill grades of 30 to 35%. One at 41%. Without peddling my e-scooter does 38 KPH on a 21% grade. My scooter is a 1200 watt RAM Mia. Looks much like a Vespa. I'm going to unlock the rev and power limiter. Has a 40 AH battery at 72 volts. Current top speed is 56 KPH. At age 76 I found I need power assist on steep hills.
There is a 10t gear but who cares when i have a 52t front chain ring on mine.. my (Trek MTB Ebike Conversion) is pushed to 25amps at 1,450w with a 52v batt.. 33mph throttle only, so when i'm peddling like a mad man, full throttle my speeds maxed at 42 mpg... Street only build 😎
Yeah but you have a Trek most almost all commercial e-Bikes run a freewheel not a cassette which has more options. I am looking to buy or build a bike that I can average 35 mph on but a want it with a torque sensor which is making it hard to find. I run a custom build, all wheel drive, 1500 w in rear and 1000w on front 48 volt 57.6 ah bike but it goes 31 mph no matter what up hills, straight aways so I want a little more control over it.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures Ya i've got a 9 speed cassette similar to the one in the box but with no real climbing gears.. the kit i put on my trek is the BBS02 mid drive.. definitely not an Ebike sold commercially. My issue is that i chew through cassettes and stretch chains every 8 months or so.. planning on a BBSHD upgrade in the future.. Check out the "Wired Freedom" Ebike its 60V and can hit 38-40ish mph but its a fat tire. I almost ordered it but bought a Carbon Intense sniper instead lol🤷
@@jasondundom1390 the Wired is definitely in my crosshairs. My only problem is it’s a Candace sensor some of them can be fine. Others are all or nothing. I have one mid drive bike, I use it for the trails not on the road Mid-drives much more controllable
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures What about using a throttle ?? I love my mid drive.. i can pull my trailer and dog up and down trails at slow speeds where a hub drives overheat. The issue with these "store bought" bikes for me is the weight.. the freedom weighs in at 88lb !! 33 more then my bike.. God forbid having to pick it up and put in the bed of my lifted truck with my back 😖
@@slimdunkin117 the 11 t is the important one for ghost pedaling, your good in the back. So the only thing you can do is change the crank, you can go to a 52t if you don’t wanna be too drastic
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures on throttle it gets up to 31mph. It’s a mid drive..so it puts all the strain on the chain and the chainring. And this motor is notorious for snapping chains so I would need a solid 11 speed chain
its on a cassette probably on a road bike,on the hills around here a good average is 9-12 mph, down hill its close to 40 mph via gravity@@GarysE-BikeAdventures
I can't find even one flaw about hub motor comparing to regular mtb. Can you name flaws and why they are poorly designed. My ebike is self customised by my own needs.
A reason why the chainring is small is to get you home if the bike malfunctions or runs out of battery. Many people won’t be able to pedal that 58 on a dead bike. So then you need to change the cassette to one with a climbing gear. Just something to keep in mind. I had to limp mine home a mile when I had a sensor go out.
I put a 11/ 34 t freewheel on for just that reason
This is very important for E-bikes with 20" wheels
Yes, it is,manufacturers set these things up for the middle of the road, but if your anything like me and run a little bit faster. You’re a ghost paddling at 15 mph. I’ve got a 26 inch bike set up so that I’m not ghost pedaling till after 32 mph makes me do a lot more shifting which I don’t mind.
Most bikes have 14 tooth high gears. 11 makes a big difference.
I agree. I just changed out a 14 tooth with an 11 tooth gear. I also replaced the 42t crankset with a 48t. These two mods are games changing. But like you were saying, this guy assumed too much.
Hi Gary a neighbor from the north here. My e bike has a stock freewheel of 14-34 and to change to a new freewheel of 11-34 is a big improvement to minimize ghost pedeling. I am ok with the stock front crank ring. Good videos Have a nice day. Tom up in Canada in the Maritimes at the NB-NS border.
The two middle links are no longer available on Amazon do you have a replacement link?
When I switched out my cranks, I changed out chainring to a 69t Driveline. My tiny Swagtron EB7 used to top out at 18.6. Changing some P settings, performing a shunt mod, & the larger chainring means I’m ghost pedaling after 28.4mph. 72v conversion coming soon to replace the lethargic 36v system.
36 volt Wow, I don’t blame you for upgrading
Can't imagine needing more than a 52t chain ring with 11t high gear on the cassette to hit 28mph. And that's if a 52t will fit on your bike. It may hit your chain stay before you can get it all the way on. Not all chainstays are shaped the same. A bigger chainring will give you more top end speed on flatter ground but can also make it tougher to get up hills unless you got some good motor power. So it's a trade off. All depends on what kind of riding you do the most.
I’m currently have six eBikes only two run the 58 t Both are set up for street riding plus I run 34t on the low end on the free wheel if my bike craps out I’m calling my wife to bring my car with the bike rack on it.😀
I added a 58T to my 20” fat tire Ebike and had to do nothing with the chain. Wrapped it right around the new chainring.
Great to know when we get e-bikes. Trying to decide which ones to get. We have lot of trails, dirt roads, hills, etc in Alabama. Would like it to go through sand good when I go to South Florida. Thanks for the video.💥🚴🏻♀️😎
I’ve heard that the bigger front gear makes it difficult to peddle the bike At lower speeds. Can u confirm this or share some information on this. Thanks.
My e-bike came stock with a 42T chainring and a 14-28 freewheel. Ghost peddling started around 20 mph. To make matters worse, it has a torque sensor which I love but was useless once the ghost peddling started. The torque sensor requires pressure from the peddles to call power from the e-motor. No pressure sensed (ghost peddling) no power assist. It was impossible to see that class 3 28 mph the the bike was capable of without peddling like a mad man with the torque sensor due to the ghost peddling. According to the cycle/gear charts, it would take a cadence of 105 to achieve 28 mph. That's unreasonable and unacceptable. So I replaced the 42T chainring with a 52T one, and the 14-28 freewheel with a 11-34 one. My 1st gear ratio is the same as the original so no change there. But my final drive, 7th gear is way better. My new 4th gear is about the same as my old 7th gear. Ghost peddling has been completely eliminated so I now get power from the motor all the way up to 28 mph. And when I get there, my cadence is only 65. Perfect. 🙂
Ya it’s crazy the gears they put on these bikes, I get not every one wants to ride fast, but I have reviewed many bikes that a 15 mph are ghost peddling. Glad to hear you have it a lot better now.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures That's my new ebike, ghost pedaling at 15mph. I will be looking to make this change!
I have seen the evolution....very impressive!
If everyone is going to 11 tooth freewheels or cassettes, there may be a reason...
Dropping a tooth on the high end of the freewheel is roughly the same as adding four teeth to the chainring.
It's just math. (Chainring Teeth / Cog Teeth) x Rear Wheel Diameter = Gear Inches.
Gear inches determine how far your bike will roll forward for each revolution of the crank. This is why 20 inch bikes will have larger chain rings than bikes with larger wheels, like 26 inch or 700c.
E-bikes should ideally have a fairly wide range of gears. You need low gears because you may be pedaling that heavy bastard up a hill with no battery power at some point - and you need high gears to assure you can add some pedal power at top speed without spinning your cranks at an unreasonable cadence.
Your absolutely right that’s why I run an 11 / 34 t on the back. This particular brand comes with an 11/28t already
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures - Yup. Wheel size is part of the formula, and as soon as I saw that 58 tooth chain ring, I said, "I bet he has a 20 inch bike."
That's why, if you wanted to go racing a few years ago, you needed a really big front wheel, which is the stereotypical penny-farthing bike that we see in period movies and old photos. Actually most Victorian folks opted for something more sensibly closer to a 45 inch front wheel, but, as usual, racing bikes got all the media.
Front derailleurs seem to be going the way of the dodo, which I think is a shame, because that's another good way to get to a wider gear range.
@@47f0 I looked into a front derailleur setup but couldn’t find anything that big
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures - Hmmm. Could you even get a front derailleur clamped to the Lectra seat tube?
I looked into the Schlumpf drive. I've seen it on a couple of recumbents, because recumbent riders are also desperate for wider gearing. But I couldn't get the numbers to add up - the best offer I could get for one of my aging kidneys on the organ black market wouldn't cover the cost of the Schlumpf.
You make it look so easy!
So the pedal arms clear the frame ok? Great video. I like to pedal too!
They are exactly the same length as the lectric pedal arms
@@garywebster6181 Awesome. Excited to try the 58t out.
Please let me know how it turns out
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures This worked great, thanks and great video. Was able to use the Lectric on a Huffy folder too. Those quick release mounts were really loctited good from factory! This is fantastic, if needed a smaller chain ring is a quick change and away you go!
@@kjohns1413 Glad to hear it worked out well for you.
What i just see... front chairing uppgrade from 50 to 55 gets gear ratio up by 10% and change a casette small ring from 14 to 11 ingease it about 30% without degrease ground clearanse and no need to extend chain. There is lot of charts and calculators to count you gear ratios and speed vs cadece in different combinations. So if you want go fast without spinning like crazy change caset instead of front chainwheel. It is just math and physic.
I also changed the Freewheel to a 11/34 T and I went from 52 to 58 on crank set so 1st gear would not engage as the derailer was all the way the way forward at its stop
Also crank arms stay the same size, so no ground clearance was lost
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures Ground clearance comes from lowest part of a bike, but not pedals pr sidestand. Usually when driving in hard terrain and drive over rocks and roots you will be standing on bike and pedas are in horizontal position. But normaly these kind of tunings are not made for forrest trails. I made mine eb a commuter and chargo bike. I pull trailer with solarpanel on it and so on. Even camping gears. I also change oval chain wheels in front to get more torque with 175mm cranks. Those ovals make a hughe difference for hill climbing and forrest.
@@timppako80 Yeah sounds like you have a lot of fun with your E-Bike. I think most E-Bikes would fall apart fast on rough trails’ I hit a rail trail once in a while, but I am mostly on the road doing 25 to 40 miles an hour, I do have a mid- drive bike that is set up better for the trails but nothing too rocky
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures I customised my own bike for my use, so it works how i need.
Those fold up peddle are of interest to me. Where can I find those? Also looking for some 10 in X3 inch tubeless tires for an e-scooter. Current ones are 2 ply, I want 4 ply, and if a higher profile adding to the circumference, so much the better. I am in Costa Rica and many uphill grades of 30 to 35%. One at 41%. Without peddling my e-scooter does 38 KPH on a 21% grade.
My scooter is a 1200 watt RAM Mia. Looks much like a Vespa. I'm going to unlock the rev and power limiter. Has a 40 AH battery at 72 volts. Current top speed is 56 KPH. At age 76 I found I need power assist on steep hills.
my lectric xp 3.0 came with those fold up peddles, so i assume the xpedition just came with it too
I am running a 75 tooth chain ring with an 11 tooth freewheel on my wired freedom…I just ordered a 90 tooth chainring crazy lol
I would love to see a picture 😀
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures have several in the Facebook groups
@@JB_BLESSED ok I’m on two or three of Wireds groups I’ll look for it 👍 I want one of those bikes I see it in my future
There is a 10t gear but who cares when i have a 52t front chain ring on mine.. my (Trek MTB Ebike Conversion) is pushed to 25amps at 1,450w with a 52v batt.. 33mph throttle only, so when i'm peddling like a mad man, full throttle my speeds maxed at 42 mpg... Street only build 😎
Yeah but you have a Trek most almost all commercial e-Bikes run a freewheel not a cassette which has more options. I am looking to buy or build a bike that I can average 35 mph on but a want it with a torque sensor which is making it hard to find. I run a custom build, all wheel drive, 1500 w in rear and 1000w on front
48 volt 57.6 ah bike but it goes 31 mph no matter what up hills, straight aways so I want a little more control over it.
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures Ya i've got a 9 speed cassette similar to the one in the box but with no real climbing gears.. the kit i put on my trek is the BBS02 mid drive.. definitely not an Ebike sold commercially. My issue is that i chew through cassettes and stretch chains every 8 months or so.. planning on a BBSHD upgrade in the future.. Check out the "Wired Freedom" Ebike its 60V and can hit 38-40ish mph but its a fat tire. I almost ordered it but bought a Carbon Intense sniper instead lol🤷
@@jasondundom1390 the Wired is definitely in my crosshairs. My only problem is it’s a Candace sensor some of them can be fine. Others are all or nothing. I have one mid drive bike, I use it for the trails not on the road
Mid-drives much more controllable
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures What about using a throttle ?? I love my mid drive.. i can pull my trailer and dog up and down trails at slow speeds where a hub drives overheat. The issue with these "store bought" bikes for me is the weight.. the freedom weighs in at 88lb !! 33 more then my bike.. God forbid having to pick it up and put in the bed of my lifted truck with my back 😖
does it matter which bike you do this to? (adventure 2?)
No it doesn’t matter, I had an Aventon Level 1 for a while nice bikes, very well built
I have a m620 mid drive and a 48tooth chainring..I get ghost pedal around 24mph..you think going to 58 is worth it
What are the gears in the rear?
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures it’s an 11 speed, 11-42T..I don’t know the in between gear sizes
@@slimdunkin117 the 11 t is the important one for ghost pedaling, your good in the back. So the only thing you can do is change the crank, you can go to a 52t if you don’t wanna be too drastic
@@GarysE-BikeAdventures on throttle it gets up to 31mph. It’s a mid drive..so it puts all the strain on the chain and the chainring. And this motor is notorious for snapping chains so I would need a solid 11 speed chain
I completely disagree by adding a smaller tooth in the back. It also makes it harder to pedal, which allows you to go faster. Best thing change both.
there is a 9 tooth,probably not on a freewheel
Very interesting that cog would be super small
its on a cassette probably on a road bike,on the hills around here a good average is 9-12 mph, down hill its close to 40 mph via gravity@@GarysE-BikeAdventures
it is.@@GarysE-BikeAdventures
All ebikes are poorly designed.
That's a load of bs.
@@timppako80 I disagree. Both hub and mid drives have big flaws and there is a better way.
I can't find even one flaw about hub motor comparing to regular mtb. Can you name flaws and why they are poorly designed. My ebike is self customised by my own needs.
@@jonathanchampagne7683- There is a better way, which you can't go into right now because of.... reasons.
Hokay.