Tascam 122mkll Cassette Deck Full Transport Service - Part lV
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In Part 4 I clean, lubricate, and adjust, the cassette side of the transport, polish the heads and tape guides, precision grind the pinch roller, and use the M-300 gauge to set the head height and tilt (or zenith).
Part I: • Tascam 122mkll Cassett...
Part II: • Tascam 122mkll Cassett...
Part III: • Tascam 122mkll Cassett...
Part IV: • Tascam 122mkll Cassett...
Part V: • Tascam 122mkll Cassett...
Idler Tire Replacement Procedure: • Tascam 122mkII & 112 C...
Correction: I have seen this, forgot all about it! Fascinating again to watch! Great work, also observing your methods, so much to learn and share. thumbs up!
Very good, thank you. I'll be doing another with the new setup soon, see you there!
State of Arts ! BRAVO - nothing better a man can see to understand what is best to do when he want to restore analog tape deck in the shape that it deserves , and to enjoy in the sound of arts ! 👍
Thanks Stiv!
Just a general comment about the mechanics - It is amazing what low-level atmospherics can do to a machine over the decades: low level oxidation, air moisture, dust, human (cell) dust. And then, eventually some strange mechanical events start to 'kick in' 20/30/40 years later!
Great photography here, aside from the mild over-exposures. Your videos may not receive 10 million views, but quality always comes in small quantities! Great stuff! ;o)
Indeed, oxidation is the silent killer and very abrasive to the tape as well, like sandpaper. It's important to keep the heads in a state of high polish if possible.
Thank you for the undeserved compliment, I know next to nothing about videography but am learning. The first big lesson was to never trust auto anything, now I run full manual and get better results.
I won't see 10 million views but then again, tape is an acquired taste, you either get it or you don't.
Thanks again for your comments and for suffering through my videos.
@@asbcustom Just this afternoon I was in a public library and watched your video again. However, this time - no saturated highlights, so I think it's my iMac at home. I may need to recalibrate or re-install. Apologies. ;o)
That's good to know, thank you, I try really hard to get the technical details correct so that it's at least partially watchable.
Nice work 🎉
Great details!
Thanks Paul!
Would love to see a video on the proper use of the gauge at the end of the video. Been thinking about buying one but not confident what I’d be checking with it or how to adjust the transport with it.
I have shown it in use on a few videos but haven't done a dedicated one. There is a pretty thorough use of it here: ruclips.net/video/JZjBT2b3WzA/видео.html and a couple of closeup photos at the end of the segment that will show what I'm working towards. Maybe I can do a narrated one in the future, thanks for your comments.
What a great job my friend, you are my hero, thanks al ot for your videos
Thank you so much!
Good thing the pinch roller lever E-clip you first tried wasn't the right size - you had the shiny side facing up! 😮
It would have worked out, I planned on flipping the transport 180 degrees and holding it in air above me 😉
@@asbcustom 😆
Wow you impress me. Obviously you know what you're doing. I have a mkll also,won't play or ff or rw. I didn't have the heart to toss it,so I may see what I can find thanks to your video.. peck
Don't toss it, the 122mkll is a fine machine, it just needs a control belt and motor recap. I've tried to make a complete video of the process but the camera keeps shutting down while I'm working and concentrating on the job. Next time I'll get the whole thing on film, hopefully ...
Great Video @27:50 you said it needs a Radius for pulley tire But you grinded it flat?
how did put a radius on it? (pretty cool setup you have)
I'm working on a Pioneer CT-F900, I lube everything and install new pulleys and belt and still has high Wow And flutter (Motor speed seems to be very good, rebuilt one on them Going to take apart the other one and also check the new belt for tension, to loose or to tight don't know what else to try)
I'm finding that you cant trust anybody for correct Belts and tires , pulleys. (a lot were warped, Kills wow and flutter?) and time you have to Waite for different parts
Even if you find the correct ones the next batch will be different. Lol ok Thanks for your Video's
Thank you for watching.
It was in fact ground with the correct radius, it can be seen compared to a new factory pinch roller at ruclips.net/video/L1ZD8Fzk6V8/видео.html.
Capstan belts are critical, yes. Everything must be functioning correctly for low flutter, no question about it. Sometimes motors are just worn out and nothing but replacement works, but don't overlook pinch roller pressure and old sticky lubricant.
@@asbcustom Thanks Oh I see it now, it shows the 2-pinroller w a gag between them. Original I had no idea what the picture showed. (I have adjusted my pinch roller to the correct pressure)
So if the pinch roller are flat (never check my new ones) what will that do? wow and flutter?
I was very disappointed after I did everything and re-lube or grease everything and rebuild one motor after I got my wow and Flutter tape and than tested it and wow and flutter was high. I will have to check everything again since I bought a Cassette Deck Capstan Assembly I can do some external testing since I'm doing more one of this decks.
When I tested the flat cassette pinch roller I found that it caused to tape to crawl, I know that Studer tested this and had some success but only with the wider tapes. The factory radius works well, it's about 2.5" if I remember correctly.
Dialing in the flutter on these is an exercise in patience, I'm sure you'll get it eventually.
sir You are A genius 💖 🥰
Thank you for watching!
22:54 ---> Dupont Super-Slip Dry-Film spray
Thanks!
Near minute 23, are you referring to LAST Tape Head Treatment?
hifinphoto posted the material Dupont Super-Slip Dry-Film spray in a comment below. I have since used it, and like it. It also comes in liquid form.
Thanks for making such an in depth video series for this deck. I saw you mentioned that the Idler Motor/Assembly can be taken out without taking out the whole transport body. Was that going to be shown in a separate video, or was that footage part of the missing/lost reassembly footage?
I currently own a 122mk2 that sounds/records/plays back great but my rewind and fast forward function have slowly come to a stuttering halt over the past few months. I'm hoping that the idler tires just need to be replaced... If I can do this without a total disassembly that would be a lifesaver, as this video has shown me just how intricate a total disassembly and overhaul of this machine is. Really nice work!
Thanks again for your time and dedication to keeping these machines going. I look forward to hearing back from you.
Colin,
Thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate it.
The reel motor with its idler tires can be removed easily without disassembling the transport, you only need to remove the cover and you'll see it. There are two screws near the center top of the transport that remove the bracket holding the motor. The motor and pulleys come out as an assembly with the bracket. You will probably need to clip off a wire tie or two but there's plenty of room to work once you do. I would add a drop of oil to that front motor bearing while it's out also.
I do plan to add that to the series but I wanted to show how it can be done without removal so it will be in the next part after I reinstall the transport.
Thanks again and good luck!
@@asbcustom Thanks for getting back so soon. This is great news. I have the replacement "tires" coming in the mail so I'll give it a shot when they come in. Is there any specific type of oil you recommend using for the motor bearing? Apologies if I missed that in the video. I'm not very experienced repairing things like this but I've really enjoyed using my 122 so far and want to keep it going strong.
@@colinmacisaac1574 Colin,
This is fun and ironic, you actually purchased those tires from my own eBay listing. I'm going to give these to you complimentary for being my first commenter on the video! I'll ship them out in the morning and you should see your refund right away. Give me a ring if you have any problems with the install, my number will be included.
Thanks!
Peter
@@asbcustom Ha ha! What a small world and funny turn of events. I really got a good chuckle out of this. Very kind of you to do that too. Thanks again!
Fascinating run down. I have a faulty TEAC C-2X and I'm wondering how similar the 122 is internally. FF/RW work fine but Play will not engage, just one clunk as the heads try to engage, a pause and another clunk as they disengage with no tape movement. Debating a tear down myself if following your 122 vids would help. If you have any advice, it would be apprecaited.
Thank you for watching.
The C2-X is very similar to the 122 (no mk designation) but very different from the 122 mkll in this video. It really sounds as though the belts might have stretched or broken, if they haven't been changed then I would start there, it may well get you operational again. The service manual is available as a free .pdf download. Those are great sounding decks, I hope you getting running.
Làm sao có thể mua được bộ gá để chỉnh lại đầu từ đó bạn? Thanks!
Search for an M-300 gage, they are available.
Excellent work. What spec Krytox lubricant did you use?
Thank you for watching.
I use GPL205 or 207. I don't have any kind of official factory spec. so I'm going by intuition, guided by experience.
@@asbcustom Thanks for clarifying. Is Molykote DX an acceptable alternative on bearing shafts?
I don't know about DX, it looks more like a linear glide grease but it's probably fine. I've had amazing results with Krytox in harsh environments, where I was able to go back after years and evaluate its performance, so I'm satisfied that it can perform well in this application. Another one I've used in the past on my own machines, again with excellent performance, is Lubriplate 3000.
@@asbcustom Good to know thanks. Checking prices for the Krytox made me do a double-take! lol Anything 'MIL spec' or 'aerospace-grade' usually comes with a stratospheric price tag sadly. I'll stick with the DX for now as it seems to hold up well and is cheap. Maybe I'll plump for some Krytox at some point down the line. Thx for responding! ;)
That's very true, I think the added cost pays for the extra toxicity. Good luck on your project, there's a small round dimpled thrust bearing hiding in there. It's good to remove that and clean the old grease underneath it. Sometimes that gets missed.
Ok I've been trying my hand at taking apart/ cleaning etc.. belt and idler tires are bad. But I lost that small bearing under the head clamp.. I did manage to save the other 3.. not sure what to do now.. peck
Well for me, that sort of luck usually ends up in a trip to my knees with a flashlight, a magnet, and a plea to the Big Boss while I'm down there. If that doesn't land the fish then I'm guessing it's 1-2mm standard ball bearing procurable from the usual suspects. Good luck, I hope it takes the bait ...
@@asbcustom yeah all the above. I let it go yesterday to clear my mind. So I'll go back today and retrace my steps, but I got a bad feeling it's a goner. I'm going to try and find another,I was wondering, I think there is a small bearing in a slider switch I have that may work.? Or be too big..?? Thanks anyway for getting back to me I appreciate it! Peck
I don't currently have one apart to measure for you but there is one coming in soon if you can wait. I'm quite certain it's close to 2mm, you could measure the depression in the spring hold down to verify, It just needs to be slightly larger in diameter than the depression is deep. It simply provides single point contact under spring pressure to mass couple the bracket to the three ball bearings underneath that are further coupled to the transport chassis, while still allowing linear motion. It needs a little drop of medium heavy grease in there as well for dampening.
@@asbcustom hey thanks. I'm in no rush,it's my own personal unit. I'm retired now so bored I guess and getting into projects! I'm an old school guy, I still use adat. Can't get into computer stuff. I'm ordering that krytox you use. You've been a big help, didn't think anyone fooled with analog anymore..ha.. peck
You might be surprised to learn that analog is very popular even in professional environments still, it's a niche market yes, but healthy and respectable.
The width of the guide for the tape has increased- the tape will walk on the side-violation of azimuth
That's a fundamental misunderstanding of tape travel, the tape guide is not a railroad track, it's a guard rail. By specification there is always clearance, the tape can never touch both sides of the guide, but ideally, should span it.
Thanks for watching.
@@asbcustom If the distance of the guides was not important, then the firms would not strive to make it in size 3.81-3.82
Where did you divine that I said it wasn't important? My was statement was that there is clearance. The NAB standard for tape guides is .151 ± .001 inch or 3,84mm ± 25,4 microns. For the tape width it's 0.150 + 0.000, - 0.002 inch (3,81 mm + 0, - 50,8 microns). That's .150" (3,81mm) minimum for the guide and .150" (3,81mm) maximum for the tape or, up to .152" (3,86mm) maximum for the guide and .148" (3,76mm) minimum for the tape. That's .004" total allowable clearance, or 0,1mm. Polishing the sharp, stamped edges and faces, doesn't knock the guide out of specification, but does cause less wear on the edges of the tape.
@@asbcustom I also want the surface of the guides to be smooth and polished-this is only good. But increasing the width of the size of the guides gives a lateral displacement of the film. The maximum that can be allowed is 3.83мм
Maybe study up a bit on manufacturing tolerance and then have another look at the NAB specifications for tape and guide, that will help explain the maximum allowable clearance of 0,1mm. The maximum allowable guide width is 3,861mm (.152") not 3,83mm (.151").