BMW E46/E39 No Crank No Start: The Ultimate DIY Guide
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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Are you in the Los Angeles? Do you want Ismail to make you a key? Do you need him to fix your EWS or DME sync issues? Get in touch with him on his Facebook Marketplace:
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Or give him a call at (949) 491-3422.
My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
How could anyone actually down vote this video? Are you kidding me? Most informative tutorial out there. 50’s kid your the best and your friend in this video is awesome too!!
This was great. I’m not gonna lie, I skipped through to the parts that I needed but for anyone that knows nothing about cars, this is absolutely great! Thank you guys!!
Good information. But the title should be say something about a full education on the immobilizer. I came here just wanting to know if there's an easy location to get to the starter signal wire 😂
50sKid... I've owned an E46 for 10+ years now and you have always come through. I really can't thank you enough for your constant solid advice, thorough step by step guides, and the time you have spent making these videos to help the E46 community.
I had a no crank no start. Unfortunately my car was at my GFs & most things I would have on hand weren't with me besides a small tool kit. Everyone in my BMW fb group kept telling me it was the starter and I was wasting energy and money replacing fuses and the ignition switch (as your video suggested). To be honest, I felt they were 90% right but I had to try before getting my car towed to the shop and digging into my pockets. I don't think I'd have the patience to replace the starter. Long story short, before trying to replace the ignition switch I replaced fuse f14, f67, f105 and the car fired right up. I'm almost positive it was f105. You saved me a ton of money, time, stress and even gave me a sense of accomplishment with of course lots of credit to you. Thank you again for all your help!
Yoooooo
I can't find the f105 fuse on my car 2004 X3 where is it?
@@odysseaspsounis2379 just fyi, I was totally wrong. It was my starter. F105 is behind the glove box. You need to actually remove the glove box to get to it. At least in my e46.
@@CapN-Savvy ok thank you
Great advice from you guys! The most important thing I've learned from these cars is that they hate low batteries!
Shout out to Ismail: I had a stubborn no crank no start situation, and was at my wits end (bad starter replaced, everything else tested). Reaching out to Ismail was my last straw. He thought the ignition switch could be at fault. The odds of a starter and ignition switch go bad on the same day simply... never crossed my mind. Bit the bullet and bought a new switch. Viola, the sweet sound of turning over after almost two months.
You guys are awesome! Thank you for everything!
Is there a number I can get to call thus man? I'm having issues with all this
That's a great video and it helped me (along with other's, for manifold and starter removal) very recently. One comment though: the video strongly suggest that you need to have both control wires energized to turn the starter motor. That's not true - the bigger bolt - yes, it's needed to run the starter and engage the motor. But the smaller (that you mentioned on the video comes from the DME) it's actually not an input to the starter, but a sensor wire if the solenoid has engaged. This and the lower power screw of the solenoid are connected together, it's easily spotted. If you put 12V directly on it (which you should not do) the motor will run, but the sprocket will not engage.
Also, please watch out for starter/solenoid failing intermittently. I took mine out only to see that it functions fine at the bench. But it was also getting all the right signals. Only after a couple of trials I've seen that the solenoid is getting stuck from time to time. I would probably be able to fix it, but the new one is cheap enough not to bother.
You two guys have given me great help. My EWS work fine (Pin 1 has power feed) and all my 4 DME test fail on Pin #12 (no voltage), and waiting my eBay order on 5, 6, 7, 8 DMEs (crank but no start, no spark - No power feed to Crankshaft Position Sensor). Have a nice day.
Jason & Ismail are Just on another Level when it comes to BMW. I own 2005 E46, and this channel is alway my 1st go to, for answers & tips. You guys need a TV Show!!!
Life saver. Just used this process to save thousands in repairs. My wife had installed a fashion crystal ring on the ignition switch which was blocking the signal from the key to the housing. Thank you so much
i was having trouble starting up the car everything was lightning up & working but the car wouldn’t turn over no click nothing!!! i , like your wife , did the same thing installed fashion ring 🙄🙄 seen this comment ran out the door to my car to take mine off , she started right up 😂
Seriously?????!!! Damn, I switch batteries, spark and ignition coils ( it was time anyways) and now just bought starter to do the repair then found this video. I’m try the fuses and ground BUT REALIZE by this comment that my wife too INSTALLED bunch of glittering pink stuff and I think the fashion ring too!! Hahahahaha
Oh boy oh boy let me go check
Hey 50sKid, I just wanted to thank you & your guest Ismail, you guys are awesome! I have a 325i that had a "No crank, No start" issue, so I called Ismail to see if he could help. Ismail was very friendly & helpful. He was generous with his time, answered all my question and best of he was able to solve my problem. Thanks again, you guy are GREAT!!! 👍
2 absolute legends, when he said 80% chance it’s the car battery he wasn’t lying, because I’m my case that’s exactly what it was, 1 year old Bosch battery was on give me 12.02 volts this was the issue.
Thank you guys now I can finally sleep at night.
Complicated but very informative - I fixed a no start issue that my BMW dealer was not help in a no under the hood check by replacing the a S switch in the fuse box of my SUV - And everything worked just fine. Now the car would not work after stopping to fill up with gas. Had it towed by and will go through your check list to see if I can find the problem before I tow it to BMW. I am here in China so communication with the BMW staff is not easy.
Thank you guys, you just saved me a ton of money, I did your EWS trouble shooting on my E46 and it turned out to be the Ignition switch. Total cost $16 and some time. Much appreciated!!
This video saved me from a lot of tearing things apart for no reason to deal with a no crank no start on my Copart 540iT. The key in ignition test meant that a $70 key was all it took to get my $700 BMW to crank right up. Much respect and many many thanks.
where did you get the key from?
If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal switch will also cause a no crank, no start. I just narrowed mine down to that switch and replaced it and now it starts right up.
EXACTLY!!!
Hey guys, you saved my day! I’ve done a bunch of work on my 2003 530 I and the battery has been dead for sometime. I put a new battery in and it would crank but not start. I used BMW scanner went in to the DME and hit the DME-EWS adaptation button in programming and immediately after that task was completed I removed the key and waited 20 to 30 seconds like you had mentioned at 24:40 in this presentation. Success! Thank you very much!😎🇩🇪🚙
One of the best videos I have seen. Working on my no crank/no start issue on my 2002 540i. Lucky to have easy access to the starter connections. So far, 12.6v on the main cable, 7.6v on one connector and 0.7 on the other. So I am working through all that. This helps a lot. Off to check fuses.
I have exactly the same situation. Only happens when the engine is hot tough
@@irmasalla My issue was the starter. Replaced it and everything works well.
@@daveputerbaugh8606 Thanks a lot, I have exactly the same values at the starter, so your solution give me a lot of input to solve the issue.
@@irmasalla My car was a 540i. If you have the V8, then when you replace the starter, pull out the oxygen sensor for much better access to the top starter bolt. Took me a long time to get the starter out, trying to work around the O2 sensor. I could pull a starter and replace it in about an hour now. Easy job.
@@daveputerbaugh8606 I have the e34 540. But I assumed that is very similar. Sure I will take your advice
BMW has a special place in heaven for both of you
I would be such a prick if I did not add this comment: X5 2004 out of no where refused to start. I spent 6am to 8pm non stop tracing circuits, cleaning connections, running data scans, WATCHING every youtube guru in the entire internet. Even the BMW nerd forums are CLUELESS. When I found this video and the sister video you guys did to it, problem was resolved. Bless you guys!
Well???? What was the problem and solution?
Just thought I’d say that they did a great job of researching all of the possible outcomes and helped me narrow my search down to a bad starter I replaced the starter and was still haven’t issues and I actually found out my ground cable had become so corroded it wasn’t allowing any electricity through so even when I attached live wires I wasn’t getting any cylinoid or motor movement you can simply fix this by removing the two bolts and sanding down the ends of the wire and the mounts and it cranked right up
Good video. The beep test works with us cars only, euro cars dont beep when the key is in the ignition.
Thanks mate!!! EU here
@@marcoaurelio6941 I have North American can and this test doesn't work either.
Mine was running and I turned it off when inside and came out and there's nothing lights etc work np but nothing else
My car beeps? And i have a eu car
Excellent video as always! I wish more "car guys" on youtube could produce content this good. I followed your earlier intake manifold / starter removal diy to replace my starter not once, but twice in the course of a year (I cheaped out and bought a chinese reman unit the first time around ....). I guess I was "lucky" in the sense that it was my starter that was actually bad, I didnt troubleshoot beyond battery, ignition switch and fuses. Heads up to all the E46 owners out there - do yourself a huge favor and watch this video more than once before you jump into replacing things, it's only a matter of time before your car gets a "no start".
Thanks i just found out I have a ground issue, 5 years later and this video is still super helpful.
This video was really helpful. I had a no crank no start issue and it ended up being a body to engine ground. First time I'd ever had a problem with the ground.
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Ok, so I
bought a project bmw 2001 740il 2 years ago... crank but no start. It's been sitting 2 years and I've done lots of trial and error since. Today I just ordered a key, antenna ring, ignition module, ews and dme tested in working condition. They also included the trunk key lock. I have other project cars, roadmasters which I love the simplicity of the 92, 93 models. So the bmw has been in back of my apartment pissing off my landlord for 2 years now. Next week I'll do the install of new parts, and hope for the best. I'll also have to change out the gasoline. I have a new battery I bought 2 years ago, it still charges up past 12.6 volts so should be good as long as it's in like the 12.2 v range and above I take it. Which doesn't give you too many starts before declining beneath that range. I'll update w a video link maybe.... to this comment if I get it to run. So here's the back story...
I get the car home. The frustrated seller sold it to me cheap and just bought himself another bmw. Newer. He says limited info on the problems because I'm not getting an easy fix after he put a lot of work and money into it.
He said, might be a vacuum problem, removed after market car stereo because it was causing a voltage drain and the alarm also goes off randomly.
- what I did-
New battery, Crank sensor, cam shaft sensors, voltage checks and fuse checks from battery all the way forward, bought new fuel pump fuse and alarm fuse, checked every fuse including under passenger seat, was signs of water damage linr from carpet stain but all the bases looked shiny new, he must of replaced those= squeaky clean, bench tested the fuel pump and also the extra fuel pump in trunk that came as an extra part w car- he must have tried replacing it but wasn't necessary, both worked fine, yes had fuel pressure squirting out fuel at Schrader valve after a few cranks, fine there, but it wasn't coming out the injectors and also no spark from ignition coils during grounding test while cranking. That told me right there aha! Must be tampering protection mode basically wasn't allowing fuel or spark- so I bought an old school gateway labtop that's specifically meant to work Excellent for the "old school inpa software" which I bought as well and the connector module linking to car's read out port. Installed software etc, which required a video for further instructions because everything was in German. Ok so system up and running and I do the attempt at a rolling codes resynch between ews and dme. It states "No Communication to Dme" ... so I can't even attempt to synch it now. Stale mate. Tried so many times.
That was my dead end.
I just wanted to thank you for all your videos. You have helped me so much with my 02 325i. 215,000 miles and going strong. My car developed a misfire yesterday and your I watched your misfire video and know she's purring like a kitten. Did a power steering pump the other week thanks to you as well as new radiator and expansion tank. Your the man!!!
No crank, no start can also be caused by F30 (7.5a) blowing.
This is usually caused by a faulty oil level sensor. Always replace with a Hella unit amzn.to/2PtxeIz
This often causes a battery warning light to be illuminated and if you have an automatic you will also observe that the dashboard display does not show gear selection. You may get a neutral position switch fault logged and the transmission cog displayed. You'll find that there is now +12v on the EWS post on the starter.
If you supply +12v to the EWS post on the starter the car will start and run fine, but you will probably find the gearbox is in limp mode. Also INPA will not show that ignition is on in this state. If you replace the 7.5a fuse and try to start the car you may find the fuse blows within 10 seconds (when the oil level sensor registers). If this is the case, unplug the oil level sensor, replace the fuse again and start the car. You will have a low oil warning displayed but the car will otherwise behave normally.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Interesting. Does this mean if I know I have a bad oil level sensor and an intermittent no crank no start that I should replace the oil level sensor?
I have a no crank no start issue with it not indicating the gear selected ive checked f30 and it is not blown im stuck on what it could be. Heard it could be the transmission gear selector switch but ive heard that if that goes bad it’ll normally have the gear indicating next to the gear indicator
This is the closest symptoms to my issue
One of the most informative videos I have ever seen on e39 BMW Ignition System.
I have seen 100s of videos related to this subject and these guys are heads and tails above all others. I have had a miserable time with bmw mini no crank no start replaced ign switch and starter and battery over the last three weeks in my spare time . nothing but silence when the key turns other than all the lights and stuff working just no start. i hope to apply this knowledge as i approach it once again. thank you so much for explaining so that a non mechanic like myself can understand this complicated starting system.
What was the issue?
Stumbled on this video today and definitely very informative and easy to understand. I have been having the same issue with my 2001 BMW e38 750iL. It would start and crank normally forever and than decide not to. I figure its a problem between the ignition lock and EWS, did not scan it with INPA yet. But, when Ismail mentioned the ding dong and beeping, I started thinking, if my car ever did that? And I cant remember. I went back to the car, its not cranking, but no ding dong either. I than flipped the headlight switch on in hopes to hear the beep but in stead car started and started every time after that. Now I am completely stumped, but the car started and I was able to move it from parking lot where it was not suppose to be at. Definitely need to scan it with INPA. But thank you for pointing me in the right direction and having such an informative video.
Long time subscriber here. Just want to say thank you for your E46 contents. I've fixed quite a few things and also did a manual conversion using your videos so please keep rolling with it. Great channel.
WOW!!! I read from someone else that a STUPID FASHION RING around the ignition key was the culprit. I be DAMN! My wife installed one last week so I removed it. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!
After buying battery, ignition coils and spark plugs, now I have a strong running car again. To think my wife was ready to head to dealer for a new car lol. Going few more years left :)
hey guys, that key trick is not 100 correct because mine did chime to let me know the key was in the ignition but the code to the key was sending to the ews was incorrect signal and it was causing the starter and fuel pump to become disabled, once i got a new key programed, the car fired right up. now im not trying to bash you guys or anything because i believe you do great work but im just putting this out here for the next person who's probably experiencing what i did.
Hello! I'm from Zambia, Ive owned 3 e46s in the last 10 years and have come to your channel for help lots of times. I had the no start no crank problem on Sunday morning and I was out of my home town with no tools. After trying various things I opted to disconnect the positive terminal for 30 minutes. When I connected it back the car started right up. Thought I should share this with the community as it was something I had not come accros in my search for a solution.
When the cluster says "code" it is asking for a 4 digit code to be input on the MID radio/navigation screen. E38/39/53s had a feature where you could set a 4 digit starting code to input each start. Cluster probably had a freak out and thought a code was set.
Great video!
Just to add why is IC important - it is a "bridge" between K-BUS (on which EWS is) and CAN-BUS (on which DME is) so obviously they need IC to communicate.
This is a really great video, exactly what I need! I have this 2008 x3 3.0 it has this exact problem, no click no start everything else are find .. No beeping when key insert driver side door open!I have ruled out the starter motor, the key ring and the keys . Just got a new key from bmw dealer which cost me $206..now I need to do a diagnostic on the EWS , how exactly do we do that ? Thanks a lot man!
Too much professionalism in one video!
You are great as always!
40K+ subscribers, yeahh baby!
It will be more than 100k soon, and you totally deserve it!
In my case, the x3 did not want to turn the starter because the ignition switch was broken. The last contact responsible for transmitting voltage to the starter got blackened. It was enough to clean it with fine sandpaper and brake cleaner. This is a good piece of advice: do not lubricate the ignition switch cube with any grease, which may liquefy/dilute under the influence of high temperature and run straight onto the contacts, because there will be a lot of resistance and the car will not start. Because I have a mania for lubricating everything, I couldn't leave the gas station 😂
Add Fuse #30 (7.5A) to the list which will cause No Crank - No Start.
Also a big screwable 50 A Fuse behind the glove box, ABOVE the easy accessible (with glove box installed) Fuses in the Fuse box
Quite common for this fuse to blow due to a bad oil level sensor. Replace the fuse and try to start the car, if the fuse blows (within 10secs of ignition) the chances are it's the oil level sensor. To test, unplug the oil level sensor and replace the fuse and repeat.
@@jamesbaxter904 Interesting. Does this mean if I know I have a bad oil level sensor and an intermittent no crank no start that I should replace the oil level sensor?
@@jason.arthur.taylortest as mentioned just above your comment and yes replace if you unplug it (The oil pressure sensor) and the fuse doesn't blow.
I have a similar issue as the one explained here. My Key on my 2004 BMW e60 doesn't turn...and my best guess is that the CAS /EWS is in a "preventive mode for stopping the vehicle from being stolen" or broken into, or any similar distrubance issues! The vehicle cannot be moved or started!...The "ALARM IS SET" and consequently applies a preventative output signal which physically prevents the KEY from being turned. In additon the DME (ECU) module adds or sends another output to the GEARSHIFT lever that prevents me (the owner/driver) from shifting the lever at all...its totally blocked. So, assuming I'm on a valid trail or path of inquiry the question becomes 'how to get out of the "ALARM" set position? I've collected and studied the wiring diagrams from the "newTis info" website. I'm now on the verge of pulling the power fuses "F7 and F15 which power theCAS/EWS module. Does anybody have a BMW that is in what I might call "LOCK DOWN mode? I have electrical power to many of the other vehicle systems such as lights and DOOR LOCKING as an example, but no power windows, no radio. I've disconnected the battery several times. And actually turned of the Flashing RED light on the rear view mirror and the "don't shake the car audio beeping alarm most people are familiar with. So the LOCKed IGNITION KEY AND GEAR SHIFT lever are meant to prevent the vehicle from being moved! Maybe TOW truck drivers have a work-around ***************************************************** UPDATE 5/25/2019 I've solved a lot of the above issues! The fix: Jackup the back wheels (both at same time) and then spin them around ...I used a forward and backward rotation ...and maybe it was overkill ...Anyway I now have electrical power to the long of items i had earlier!
...The steering wheel turns, the gear shift lever can be moved out of PARK, the power_windows work, the RADIO works, THE AC turns on by itself, etc. Car still doesn't Crank /and no start is still an issue. The IGNITION KEY does TURN and I can plug-in SCANNER!!! > Which I did (INPA) and the only code was 2737 ... Described as CDKWFS- EWS 3.3. which doesn't stick (NO SES/MIL Lights ...Memory was cleared... NOT a problem last comment here is Engine still doesn't crank.
Hi, is there any options to bypass all this security system (Key (transponder), Key Ring (receiver antenna), EWS, Ignition switch, the module, DMR-EWS Rolling Code, DME-Instrument Cluster talking to each other etc) and start the my car "2004 BMW 525i Touring...." I am in a dead end situation and do not have more money to spend on it :( Any help is very much appreciated .
Hi Guys, thank you so much for making this videos. I have very weird problem on this no crank no start issue. Problem started when a screw that holds the bracket of airbag popped out and one side of airbag was loose. My car sometimes cranked and started right away and sometimes nothing… It was weird when it doesn’t cranked I turned the steering wheel at certain angle around 3 oclock and wiggle the steering wheel it cranked that happened while a screw was going around and touching something in there. I was driving for a while like this until I opened airbag and fixed the frame and tightened the screw. The car doesn’t crank at all at no angle like before! I changed the ignition switch nothing. I saw your video nothing related to steering wheel so please help me out what should I do right now.
** as I mentioned car started sometimes so battery is ok as I checked, starter is ok when it’s crank it starts in a second. Ground everything checked. No code for dme ews. Thanks in Advance
Hi I have 2005 BMW X 3 , Have been fighting a no crank no start for a few years ..I have added a push button to the wire on the left side of the starter with the key in the on position car starts and runs fine … Have checked every relay and fuse I could find need help .. only drive the car for 5 months out of the year and love it but would be nice if I just turned the key and it would start . now BMW dealers up north in Canada LOL …….
I bet you it is a bad ignition switch in the steering column. Not the lock cylinder but the actual ignition switch. Very inexpensive online and typically quite easy to replace.
Hello I love ur videos..kid jumped battery in trunk..originally had NO crank No start..so installed new battery and starter and still no crank no start..got the footwell module out as all the lights stayed on with car off..shorted out..someone said my CAS module might be bad and i'd have to send key ECU, and CAS module..others say just need aligment between CAS and DME..any advice appreciated..got some codes CAS AOBE terminal 15 output one, CAS AOCO term 15 output 3, and another cas code(cant recall but said term 15 output 2..PLEASE advise..NO key lights up on dash when car on and no PARK light on gear selector or dash when key in slot..2008 bmw 328i sedan..any advice? thanks I only have on starter trigger wire E90 series N52.
Hey the tip about testing the key was extremely helpful! In the end surprisingly it appears to have been a loose starter relay in that box under the hood. A free fix, if it lasts...
Also, how about the clutch pedal switch (obviously for manual transmissions and not automatics) and the brake pedal switch in these circuits ?
Hi all,
I have a 03 540i that I got running a few days ago. However, sometimes while driving, the car would start to run super rough and not accelerate with a “engine fail safe prog” on the dash. I limped it home and turned it off. When I tried turning it on again it started cranking and it wouldn’t start. After letting the starter crank for 7-8 seconds I turned the key to the off position. When I turned it to the off position the starter wouldn’t stop cranking so I ran to unplug the battery. After reconnecting the battery the car won’t crank anymore. Sometimes the dash says “key in ignition lock”. All the fuses are good. I replaced and reprogrammed the dme a few weeks earlier and it ran so I know that isn’t the issue. I jumped the ews leads with a fuse to rule that out and still no start. I replaced the ignition switch from a donor car and still nothing. Key buttons function fine so there shouldn't be a problem with the key battery. The starter worked perfectly weeks prior so I don’t believe that’s the cause. I’m tired of throwing parts and hope one of y’all can help me out.
Sorry...Ismail!
Good info, but I'm at a total loss. My e39 will crank "sometimes" after turning the key on and off multiple times, and sometimes it starts, but it will hardly run. Getting misfire codes for 7 cylinders, and a backfire too. Then, no matter how many times you try, it won't crank at all, sometimes for a few days. Then all of a sudden, it will crank and struggle and start, but without pumping the gas, it won't stay running. Changed all of the coils, plugs, both cam positioning sensors (still getting a code for bank 2), crank positioning sensor too. Still, most of the time it won't crank, but when it does, and starts it won't run without help and it won't idle at all. I did a smoke test to check for leaks...nothing. I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Seems like I have too issues; something with the EWS communications and something that is causing the misfiring; maybe it's the same problem, I don't know. When I do the test that Ismail mentioned, I get "NO" beeping at all. Maybe the key is bad? I got a new EWS coded to my VIN from a dealer, and when I plug that in, I get no crank....ever. Any thoughts on next steps?
You wanna impress me, tell me how to disable the EWS so I can run over it with the car =p
Great video, not sure if you mention it. Some factory accessories such as the stocked radio is required for reprogramming. Not sure if it was INPA or GTS BMW. I know one of the softwares I have checks all factory modules (about 25 of them) before it will let you reprogram (I think it was the instrument cluster). For those who replace accessories with after market items, keep OEM stuff just in case.
Let me help everyone watching this video. At the time of writing this it is year 2022. Those E39 engines are old. Go get yourself something newer 2006 and above at this point. I got tired of putting money into that damn car. You fix one thing and something else breaks. Pick your part gave me enough money to go buy something else newer and a lot more enjoyable.
this video might of saved me lol so i have a 02 e46 and all was fine i stopped at the store too get a few things and then it wouldnt crank over at all tried a few times then after 5 mins of trying it cranked over fine the next morning went too start it and it started so i turned it off and then it wouldnt start again no crank but it is beeping and detecting the key but i think the ews and dme are out of sync will have too try too re sync will keep updated might give ismail a call
In order to pinpoint faulty starter motor can you run light tester to starter buried under intake manifold? 2004 x3 E83 My starter my be getting ready to fail.
Any possibility to buy pass all these (EWS, DMR, EWS etc etc in my previous request below) and start the engine ??
Great video! I've been working on my e46 with a no start no crank issue for months now. Learning new things with each video!
Did u get it fix
Did you get it fix mines is doing the same thing
You guys Rock!! possibly the best DIY video I've yet seen on the E46 or on any car for that matter!
Hi and thanks for the video.
I had the no cranking click symptoms on my e46 n42 and after changing starter i found out that my problem was liquid on my DME connectors. After a good clean the car started again.
Great video.thanks for you . Have learned many things especialy the easy check when we have beep if the key is in position1.
28:08 This solved my no crank no start, F105 fuse was blown. In my case, the car's motor was swapped in and was never able to crank after it was installed. The motor was swapped because the original one was seized, and the fuse blew because of repeated attempts to crank over the car with the locked motor.
Hey guys, great video!! I have a problem with my 2005 330i I slowly lost power the car shut off and when I went to restart it the lights come on but it will not crank.. I put a scanner and no codes are stored, I double checked fuses,
The key chimes and I can hear the pump, it nothing. A few guys have asked if the engine locked up but it spins manually, I even ordered a new key from bmw and nothing , my tech is stumped.. just don’t know what to do at this point.. thanks..
Hey man did you ever figure out what was going on? Same is happening with mine....
Yo did you ever find out bro helppp ?? Same shit is happening ayudeme compa
Impressive and exellent as always!! Thank your very much for your informative videos. Hopefully, your videos vill keep the e46 model on the road and youngsters away from computer games. Will the next prodjectcar be a E90 with the N54 engine?
Superb info. To add, EWS, EGS, DME, IC are on the same bus (CAN bus). I believe errors containing CAN High or CAN low, will usually tell where the issue is on the bus. i.e. IC end or EWS end
Good video guys it has been very helpful trying to troubleshoot the 2005 x3 E83 I am having trouble with. had a 27a4 code replaced fuse f14 code went away but still no crank. It`s time for me to call it a day for now, but i will check the other fuses mentioned tomorrow, as well as the signal to starter. I was unable to locate a wiring diagram, so this info was very helpful Subbed and bell turned on.
I attached the yellow and black wire incorrectly causing the starter to spin and not engage. Thanks for the video.
We have a 2002 BMW 325xi, 5 speed.
We keep having a crank no start intermittent issue. Every few days.
As soon as we connect a programmer and Re Sync it, it Starts just Fine.
My mechanic ran our EWS and DME on his 325 and it ran just fine.
Does it start/crank more often on cold mornings?
Hello Guys you are quite something, there aren't enough people like you around youtube or the general web. My Daughter has A uk 530d Touring sport auto and it lost the ability to start in the middle of this week just gone. we have checked the two solenoid terminals as my daughter was turning the key to the starter position ,i was checking for voltage on either post. No voltage at all on the posts.
we have checked the fuses you mentioned in the glove box and in the engine bay near the ECU.
They where all good .One thing i think worthy of note is the fact that when you shift the lever it is hard to select "N" Neutral, you can move the lever back and forward trying to land on it ,but it just flashes as the lever sort of springs past it, eventually we are able to land on Neutral but it ain't normal. we haven't got to the fuses in the floor yet, your help would be most appreciated.
how about resetting the computer???
We need more people like these guys these video help me a lot.
Graet work.
I have an E46 320i and I had a big problem that took me a long time to figure out. I checked the battery, the starter and even replaced the ignition switch. No crank and no start. I discovered by accident that the fault was in the immobilizer. It had a broken capacitor. The repair cost €0.50 but took two years to discover. No need to replace the immobilizer. It was just repaired. To this day the car has never broken down again.
Hi guys..all your content has been very helpful over the years..im sitting with 1 problem..i hve a bmw 325i manual e46..as soon as i turn on the ignition my 1 30amp fuse pops thats located in the engine bay in the small black box it has 4 30amp fuses and 1 20amp fuse in it..the one that sits on the right hand side from the 20amp fuse..any solutions? TIA
too bad in EU cars dont beep when you open the door, any other way to check this?
Great video guys!!
Im here in trouble with my e36 318is 1993.
I need to find whats my problem inside all of possibilities
You guys are legit , Super thorough And understandable
It helped me a lot, thank you.
great stuff guys.God Bless both of you👍
I have a 2004 325xi , according to the wiring diagram the setup is not like what you described in this video.
Have a crank no start on a 2002 325i. Have fuel at rail. It did start and run for a drive after I did a reset with key (5 sec + 2 min wait plus battery disconnect) now back to crank no start again.. ordered another dmi thought might be problem.. don’t know. Checked middle fuse 30 amp beside Ecm. Checked fuel pump relay. Ok relay. Bypassed And hear fuel pump. Plus like I said fuel squirts out of rail when small screwdriver depresses little valve. Key has worked before.
I have a e46 m3 that's blowing the ignition fuses and giving the same symptom of crank, no start. I could really use some expert advise on the next steps.
Back story: I did a top end refresh on the car, changed the vanos solenoid pack, oil disc, new vanos gears, etc. Put everything back together and car was running fine for about 2 weeks. One fine day, it just died.
At first, I thought it could be the fuel pump. I replaced that.
Then, I found out that ignition fuses F2 (30A), F3 (20A), F4 (30A) are shorting out as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position.
The interesting thing is that if I disconnect the ground (under the hood, driver side next to the ECM) that connects to the chassis, the short goes away. I use a PowerProbe ect 3000 to detect open/short. Can you please advise how to go about detecting the issue?
My starter motor clicks once, and once only. However out the car it works fine on a bench? Been told it's to do with the two smaller wires, that are part of the loom. Any pointers please?
Great info in the video.. Do you have a similar video covering a Crank, no start for a e36/7 EWS II? not getting fuel or spark.
My car’s ECU temperature sensor wouldn’t allow the DME so respond to INPA or the instrument cluster. Pulled that temp sensor cable and everything awoke. Fuel relays under the hood. Still can’t start. How can we don’t act Ismail? I have RUclips tv. His info is not provided.
I did a job where is changed my vanos seals and valve cover gasket. Had to remove fan and shield and drain all my coolant. Put it all back together how it was, put alittle coolant inside. When to go start it after the job was done, turned the key for my dash to say "CODl -- - -- -- -- -- ---". Cant read it because pixels are going out. Car battery was about dead from sitting for a couple weeks so i charged it for 8 hours while at work. Came back and tried to start it, and nothing. No crank, no start. Still with that dashboard phrase. Car started just perfectly before this. I looked around my engine to double check everything was connected right and it seems to be. Not sure what happened. Battery checks out, door dings so it recognizes the key. I checked fuses in glove compartment and the ones in the trunk by the battery and none seem blown. I plugged in my OBD2 reader to check for new codes..... no new codes. Im stumped. Anybody with advice would be appreciated
After trying to figure out the problem and looking thru the manual i realized it must only be saying CODING. The manual says you can set a code on the cluster, so the engine wont start until the code is entered. I think somehow my car set itself a code. One of the many times i put the key in and turned it so power would come on, it snapped out of it all by itself
Your videos have been a great help. I have an E46 318 which starts first thing in the morning, with a lot of smoke, but it wont start 30 mins later of a 50km drive. If I leave. it till later in the afternoon it will start. battles when hot only
Any help?
I have the same problem. I already changed out the ignition switch. What did you find out?
Is ESG the same as TCM? I had an issue that battery light comes up when driving, however, when I pulled over, the dashboard display show "S" instead it is actually position in "P/N" , scanner does not see transmission switch error though so I am quite confused.
CONTINUED >> In addition to my previous comment, what else I discovered before my dead end... Well I was replacing the crankshaft sensor and just kind of fondling the cars bottom side like it was my new girlfriend when I discovered something resting on top of the oil pan completely out of sight hiding like a frightened turtle. It was the oil level sensor severed and the exposed wires touching, resting, grounding out frying to the oul pan. The sensor was still attached as should be but then I noticed also that yeah the wire was severed. I thought how could this happen?? It then occurred to me later the dudes grass was kinda tall and there were a few short cactuses in his lawn sticking up above ankle height. >> I bet he was pulling his car into lawn one day after work where he parked it and it caught a cactus, severed the wire and the grounding problem started there! And that was the voltage drain problem, not the after market stereo system as he previously suspected... and then that was causing the alarm to randomly go off as is common, I'm pretty sure, when the battery is dieing the car alarm will then randomly go off I think it's common w bmw. I'm Sherlock Jones-ing this best as I can. So I replaced the oil level sensor well before buying the labtop and inpa software btw. I tested voltage at so many places and everything turned out ok. One more thing, I noticed a snapped bolt head on the rear passenger side valve cover. I bet after he replaced the pcv system he was then suspected a bad valve gasket letting in air and first turn of the wrench... Snap! As to be expected on a motor w over 300,000 miles. That's probably where he said oh ###! This and bought a different car. Cause he told me the car just started running more and more rough until one day.... no start. Crank but no start. I noticed new coils installed as well. And oh he said his friend is a mechanic and was trying to help him fix the car. But just because you're a trained mechanic doesn't mean you have better common sense than the random guy walking down the street whistling zippity do dah. And it doesn't mean he's thorough or a good investigator. It just means he's another educated wage slave. I almost didn't buy the car upon hearing that but then I regained my confidence quickly and said, " I can do this, I can fix this!" UPON further research I find the owner before him, the OG owner was a cunning business who often raised increments of over a million dollars for many random investments and business ventures. The guy was a real savvy business man who could think on his toes and make money appear out of thin air seemingly. So the car was well maintained and even the timing chain guide looks brand new sparkling clean upon peering inside the valve covers oil cap. And I noticed when pushing the car into its new lawn ornament position...The thing rolled better than crooked house dice in Vegas. I know there is just something about this car that is worth my efforts! I will fix this. Or go crazy, either way... not giving up and I've been supplementing the land lord w free yard work, building maintenance to keep the dream alive cause I'm a man damn't and i can fix things and I will fix this beautiful silver heap yet. Any comments to help me along the way are appreciated >>>>> thanks>>>>....
Bench tested e46 starter if you give power to dme terminal it just spins the starter motor and if you power the other terminal it engages starter fine . i also checked the wiring diagram it appears that the so called dme terminal on starter doesn’t get signal rather than it takes signal from starter
Yeah I agree, I always thought the black and yellow wire was a feedback signal going back to the DME rather than a start signal coming from it. The start signal goes through only fuse 105, the ignition switch, and the EWS's relay. This video confused me a bit there.
HELP!! My son and I recently tore into his 2004 E46 (325ci) to replace his valve stem seals. After we got it all put back together (timing reset and all that stuff) it cranks but doesn't start. The electrical box under the air intake buzzes if the key is in position 2, and for a few seconds after the key is turned back off.
We did get a P1625 pedal position code, double checked all the connections, and the code hasn't reset since, but still the engine is turning but not firing up. Sounds a bit funny too.
Any ideas what could be wrong, what we should try to double check first?
So I tried to program extra keys to my 2000 328i E46 with a AK90 unit and at one point had 3 keys working. When I tried to add one more all quit working. I tried to re-write the original saved data to the EWS with no luck. All dash lights come on but no crank no start. Please help.
This video is awesome! Specifically intrigued about the park from 13:40 to 14:40
I’ve been fighting with the no crank scenario on an R 53 Mini Cooper which uses the same immobilizer unit found in most E30 nines and e46’s...
Is there any way to scan the car to read for faults before I pay Mini $230 to do it?
I spent hours with a multimeter and pretty much ruled out everything regarding the charging system in the starter as when manually supplying power, it cranks no problem...
@50skid PLEASE HELP OR ADVISE : I have problem with my e46 325i /2001
1-Battery light is on
2-transmission faulty light is on
3- I hear a bang when switching from reverse to drive
When I start the car and see this sign faulty transmission , the car can drive on reverse and other gears except for first gear.
If I start the car and sign does not show on dashboard, the car only drives on first gear 35 Km speed max.
Took it to many mechanics and nobody could fix it.
First guy said he fixed alternator and reprogrammed ECM , The second told me to check and change Positon switch which I did and still problem not fixed .Now they are saying its the alternator which the first guy fixed.
I checked the battery its giving 12.4 V and when car started and I hit benzin pedal it goes up to 13.9-14 Volt . 11:01
How about for E83 ? Does the "beeping" test work for them too ?
I have 2006 530i i did the test with the key turned over to first click and open the door. I got nothing no sound no display. Does this mean key is bad?
Would it be safe to use a fuse constantly in the EWS port to start car if EWS relay is broke? I plan on eventually soldering a different relay in the EWS in the future.
I have a manual, so I can push the car and start it that way. Which Problem/s can I rule out now?
Thx :)
Hey 50s kid I have a manual 323ci .. it starts but won't cranks.. i recently installed a sound system and it ran the battery down.. and it stopped working didn't didn't give a sign or nothing just stopped..
What if I get “dme wire blocked” on my EWS status in ISTAD? Key and codes are fine.
Awesome video and tutorial! Highly recommend. Kudos to 50sKid and Ismail!
Quick q for @50sKid: my MSS54 DME X60003 connector did not have a wire in pin 12 location and could not back-probe DME as you suggested… any thoughts or suggestions?
Pin 23 on my DME is corroded and broke off. It says DME RELAY Signal Activation main relay
In regards to the beeping/no beeping. Ismail stated that once key is in ignition and in position 1 open door and should hear beeping and “Key in Ignition” on instrument cluster. In my car I did exactly that and I hear beeping but the instrument cluster didn’t display “key in ignition”. My question is...is it safe to say that my key, ring and ews are good? My car is 2000 BMW E39 thanks.
Yes it's good, older e39s don't have the messages on the cluster
I got 98 BMW 540i friend of mine said he would charge battery while I had to run down to get a thermostat to replace got back the car was locked and a battery was on the bench charging after countless hours of trying to figure out how to get the car open so I could put the battery in at least I tried to start it, nothing no crank and the ignition key spun freely at first, I pulled the starter and had it tested everything is fine with the starter now I'm somewhat at a loss I need to go to the re synchronizing have the ignition key and the CMU any suggestions, would be greatly appreciate it
thanks Martin
ok my 328i will not start..we jumped the black relay under passenger glovebox ( we thought it was starter relay but someone said it isnt..its black and square and says 30 on it i think...after we jumped this black relay,and all the lights wont SHUT OFF and now car wont SHIFT..is automatic..brake lites and accessory lights on too with car off..please help?? car wont crank..nothing.
I have an e46 with no chime in the 1st position. Also no crank and no start. I bypassed EWS a jumper fuse and still no crank no start. What should I do now?