Steve, thanks for highlighting these issues and making it known to the homeowners. Especially with the crazy number of pools being built in my area (Toronto), they are all being built fast, lazy and cheap, and it is evident at the equipment pad.
The info on this page will help you with some selection of pipe fittings www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html and this page talks about how each of these fittings affects the flow: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
I love your videos it would be cool if you did a video that actually showed the fittings and the difference I think you're a lot smarter than us and some of us don't understand what you're talking about keep up the good work
I understand what you mean. In many of my videos I am talking about subjects that I have long form articles and information about on my website. It is not my intention to have these RUclips videos to be a stand alone resource simply because there is too much information to go over, and it is far too deep and too technical for a verbal discussion. If you are on one of my videos and wish there was a visual aide or more info try clicking the link in the description box and you will normally find supporting info. In this case, this page should be helpful for you: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html - thank you for commenting. I will try to have the videos also be more conclusive and with visual props where possible. Cheers
Yes just found you,just subscribed. Very logical video,the bi-pass part of added features, was great information. Looking forward to new content . Thanks again
There is so much great information here! Sadly, most pool companies don't bother to keep up to date or improve their installations! Sales staff say whatever they choose to make the sale! Simple questions on details are an inconvenience.
Steve, I'm a new pool tech and want to learn the equipment and repair side. Maybe pool building in the future. What are THE BEST books, courses, whatever, to learn all this complicated stuff?
Thanks Steve! There should really be federal or provincial regulations applied to pool construction. Too much free for all and in the end, it’s the paying customer who’s stuck with an inefficient system or early equipment failure. I would vote you for President of that governing body 😀.
The the increase activity in the pool and spa industry during the pandemic has really highlighted these problems. Record numbers of pools are being built but unfortunately many of them are low quality and inferior installations built by marginally skilled or experienced workers. Too little regulation, too many fly by night companies popping up. It's always been bad for this in this industry, but it is amplified now.
Hey Steve, about to install a new vs pump. After watching your videos, I decided to also purchase a flowvis flow meter 2in. Plan to put it after the pump(tristar 1.85) just before the filter. I'll be upgrading the suction lines from 1.5 to 2in. from the ground into pump and pressure side to the filter. Rest of lines are 1.5. My question is will the flow numbers be accurate since its flowing through filter, heater when not bypassed, and swg which are all 1.5 inch? Am I over thinking this? Thanks
The info on this page will help you with some selection of pipe fittings www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html and this page talks about how each of these fittings affects the flow: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
Thanks Steve. I've just upgraded my pool room to a cartridge filter and larger pipes + a straighter run with 90 degree sweeps, as I'm adding an overflow hot tub and want to ensure good flow. Now I want to add UV, these are typically 100cm long and would need to be laid vertical with the space I have which is a bit disappointing given all the other efficiencies I've put in. From what you've said here, I should have a bypass on it, but I believe they need the majority of the flow to still go through, does the bypass essentially reduce the head by allowing any flow struggling to get the UV to take another route? Or is that wishful thinking?
Thanks for the video. You mention that street elbows are like a brick wall. Does that mean that if I need a 45 to connect into another connector that it is better to use a regular 45 and a short pipe segment than it is to use a street 45 directly into the connector? If so, why is the street 45 worse than a 45 + pipe? edit - looking at another video of yours it seems that it is not so much the fact it is a street elbow as it is that some street elbows make a sharper turn than a good non-street sweep elbow. So I'm guessing that a street with a good sweep is fine.
I am planning the layout of my pad and want to use long radius sweeps instead of the traditional elbows to manage head loss. If I can work out the extra space needed, is there any reason I should not do so? For reference, the fittings I plan to use are the Waterco 50mm 90 degree sweeps. They are over 6 1/2" tall, so have a very long radius and gentle sweep.
Steve, Do you believe in plumbing in a heater bypass in the event that the water in the pool becomes unbalanced (highly acidic)? To prevent corrosion of the heater core while you’re getting the water back into balance? If so, what’s the best (most efficient way) to plumb in the bypass)?
I do not think that two 45 degree fittings is less of a flow restriction than a sweep ell. My logic is that if two 45's were less of a flow restriction, when sweep elbows were designed and manufactured why would they design something less efficient than something that already exists. It does not logically make any sense, and I wrote an entire article about this: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
Hi Steve - your advice is sound and I would like your help with my first swimming pool in terms of equipment needed. Specs: 27' x 20' x 6' deep (average) - 20,700 gallons of water. What equipment would you advise pump, filter, solar heating, piping etc. Your advice would be very much appreciated. Raymond
I am sorry that i do not have an answer for you on how to locate a good pool plumber in your area. I would say that may of the best pool plumbers I know of have companies which are active on social media. If you follow some local pool companies on FB or IG then you can start to see the pictures they post. It is really easy to tell good pool plumbers from bad ones when you look at equipment installations like this. I actually made a whole video series in my area reviewing equipment installations which you can see here if you are interested: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/installation-tips.html
Absolutely not. I mean yes 2.5" is more money incrementally than 2" but there is a much larger price jump in sizes 3" and bigger. I often reference 2.5" PVC as the point of diminishing returns for new pool installations as the performance is significantly better than 2" without too much of a price jump. Some builders have barely stopped using 1.5" and get scared of the larger pipe size. Which is ridiculous. Unless you are running thousands of feet of pipe there is no way that going from 2" to 2.5" should cost over 15k. Jandy valves are 2" and 2.5" already so they are covered, and 2.5" pipe is probably 30% more expensive foot by foot compared to 2". If the builder is trying to buy filters with 2.5" native ports MAYBE this wouls account for some of this extra money, but most equipment is 2" already and that is fine, just immediately change to 2.5" and sale goes for the pump etc.
Steve, thanks for highlighting these issues and making it known to the homeowners. Especially with the crazy number of pools being built in my area (Toronto), they are all being built fast, lazy and cheap, and it is evident at the equipment pad.
You are a great speaker with a wealth of information. Showing a picture of the fittings would have made your excellent presentation better.
The info on this page will help you with some selection of pipe fittings www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html and this page talks about how each of these fittings affects the flow: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thanks. My bad. I forgot you have a website.
I love your videos it would be cool if you did a video that actually showed the fittings and the difference I think you're a lot smarter than us and some of us don't understand what you're talking about keep up the good work
I understand what you mean. In many of my videos I am talking about subjects that I have long form articles and information about on my website. It is not my intention to have these RUclips videos to be a stand alone resource simply because there is too much information to go over, and it is far too deep and too technical for a verbal discussion. If you are on one of my videos and wish there was a visual aide or more info try clicking the link in the description box and you will normally find supporting info. In this case, this page should be helpful for you: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html - thank you for commenting. I will try to have the videos also be more conclusive and with visual props where possible. Cheers
Awesome info here! Pics and diagrams flows would be great too… but I ain’t complaining! Thank you!
Steve, very informative, it would been better if you would have illustrations, charts or flowcharts.
very grateful, with the teachings, you are very good explained clearly
What would you do for a pool that has 1 1/4” pipes ? It was built in the 70’s.
Yes just found you,just subscribed.
Very logical video,the bi-pass part of added features, was great information.
Looking forward to new content . Thanks again
There is so much great information here! Sadly, most pool companies don't bother to keep up to date or improve their installations! Sales staff say whatever they choose to make the sale! Simple questions on details are an inconvenience.
Steve, I'm a new pool tech and want to learn the equipment and repair side. Maybe pool building in the future. What are THE BEST books, courses, whatever, to learn all this complicated stuff?
Thanks Steve! There should really be federal or provincial regulations applied to pool construction. Too much free for all and in the end, it’s the paying customer who’s stuck with an inefficient system or early equipment failure. I would vote you for President of that governing body 😀.
The the increase activity in the pool and spa industry during the pandemic has really highlighted these problems. Record numbers of pools are being built but unfortunately many of them are low quality and inferior installations built by marginally skilled or experienced workers. Too little regulation, too many fly by night companies popping up. It's always been bad for this in this industry, but it is amplified now.
Very much worth my time, Thank you, sir !
Wulfy
Thank you Steve
Hey Steve, about to install a new vs pump. After watching your videos, I decided to also purchase a flowvis flow meter 2in. Plan to put it after the pump(tristar 1.85) just before the filter. I'll be upgrading the suction lines from 1.5 to 2in. from the ground into pump and pressure side to the filter. Rest of lines are 1.5. My question is will the flow numbers be accurate since its flowing through filter, heater when not bypassed, and swg which are all 1.5 inch? Am I over thinking this? Thanks
Good advice but it would be nice if you should an example of the fittings and pipes for the consumer to better understand
100% with Reggie. Please help us
The info on this page will help you with some selection of pipe fittings www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/common-fittings.html and this page talks about how each of these fittings affects the flow: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
Thanks Steve. I've just upgraded my pool room to a cartridge filter and larger pipes + a straighter run with 90 degree sweeps, as I'm adding an overflow hot tub and want to ensure good flow. Now I want to add UV, these are typically 100cm long and would need to be laid vertical with the space I have which is a bit disappointing given all the other efficiencies I've put in. From what you've said here, I should have a bypass on it, but I believe they need the majority of the flow to still go through, does the bypass essentially reduce the head by allowing any flow struggling to get the UV to take another route? Or is that wishful thinking?
Thanks for the video. You mention that street elbows are like a brick wall. Does that mean that if I need a 45 to connect into another connector that it is better to use a regular 45 and a short pipe segment than it is to use a street 45 directly into the connector? If so, why is the street 45 worse than a 45 + pipe? edit - looking at another video of yours it seems that it is not so much the fact it is a street elbow as it is that some street elbows make a sharper turn than a good non-street sweep elbow. So I'm guessing that a street with a good sweep is fine.
I am planning the layout of my pad and want to use long radius sweeps instead of the traditional elbows to manage head loss. If I can work out the extra space needed, is there any reason I should not do so? For reference, the fittings I plan to use are the Waterco 50mm 90 degree sweeps. They are over 6 1/2" tall, so have a very long radius and gentle sweep.
Steve, Do you believe in plumbing in a heater bypass in the event that the water in the pool becomes unbalanced (highly acidic)? To prevent corrosion of the heater core while you’re getting the water back into balance? If so, what’s the best (most efficient way) to plumb in the bypass)?
I do prefer bypasses. I wrote an article detailing why and how: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/heater-bypass.html
Steve, do you think using 2 sweeping 45's would be better than using 1 sweeping 90? Or am I overthinking this. I'm installing an 18×36 next spring.
I do not think that two 45 degree fittings is less of a flow restriction than a sweep ell. My logic is that if two 45's were less of a flow restriction, when sweep elbows were designed and manufactured why would they design something less efficient than something that already exists. It does not logically make any sense, and I wrote an entire article about this: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/friction-loss.html
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thank you for your reply, that makes alot of sense. Take care and stay safe!!
Hi Steve - your advice is sound and I would like your help with my first swimming pool in terms of equipment needed. Specs: 27' x 20' x 6' deep (average) - 20,700 gallons of water.
What equipment would you advise pump, filter, solar heating, piping etc.
Your advice would be very much appreciated.
Raymond
Hey Steve, do you have any suggested layouts or diagrams?
Not one sweep behind you 😂
Steve what state are you located in, if you don't mind me asking. How would one find a good pool plumber. I need one in NY long island areas
I am sorry that i do not have an answer for you on how to locate a good pool plumber in your area. I would say that may of the best pool plumbers I know of have companies which are active on social media. If you follow some local pool companies on FB or IG then you can start to see the pictures they post. It is really easy to tell good pool plumbers from bad ones when you look at equipment installations like this. I actually made a whole video series in my area reviewing equipment installations which you can see here if you are interested: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/installation-tips.html
Is it hard to find 2.5" fittings? My plumbing says it's a problem to use 2.5" and would cost a extra $16k to go from 2" to 2.5" does that sound rite??
Absolutely not. I mean yes 2.5" is more money incrementally than 2" but there is a much larger price jump in sizes 3" and bigger. I often reference 2.5" PVC as the point of diminishing returns for new pool installations as the performance is significantly better than 2" without too much of a price jump. Some builders have barely stopped using 1.5" and get scared of the larger pipe size. Which is ridiculous. Unless you are running thousands of feet of pipe there is no way that going from 2" to 2.5" should cost over 15k. Jandy valves are 2" and 2.5" already so they are covered, and 2.5" pipe is probably 30% more expensive foot by foot compared to 2". If the builder is trying to buy filters with 2.5" native ports MAYBE this wouls account for some of this extra money, but most equipment is 2" already and that is fine, just immediately change to 2.5" and sale goes for the pump etc.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thank you sir!! This helps a lot, I feel the guy is trying to take advantage of me because I want to use the larger pipe (2.5")
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