Steve, you are amazing. About 4 years ago, we moved to a home in a very remote area of the mountains of east Tennessee. 30 minute drive to nearest town. 50,000 gallon in ground pool. We are about 1.5 hours from the nearest pool service company. Nearly impossible to get them to come all the way out to us. When they finally did come, the tech was stinking of alcohol on his first service call. Second service call, he demonstrated his lack of knowledge and experience when he told me the pool equipment did NOT need to be bonded. "Oh, don't worry about all that - GFI's are more than adequate". I decided it was not safe for my family to swim in a pool plumbed and wired by people I don't trust will do everything safely. So I started watching your videos (about 3 years ago) and replumbed everything - new pump, new filter, new heater, (and no 90 degree elbows!). You have taught me so many important lessons - from basic plumbing to critical life safety issues. I feel like I know you! Most importantly, nobody has drowned, been injured, become entrapped and/or suffered an electric shock when swimming in our pool -- all of which I attribute to YOU. PS, reading your life story on your website, learning all that you have gone through medically, etc, showed me a whole new side of you. I learned that you are so much more than some very serious guy on youtube called "Swimming Pool Steve". You are a brilliant and courageous man. And an inspirational human being to me. Peace, blessings, and endless thanks from the foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
Retired teacher here from Lindsay, Ontario…you missed your calling in the education system! You’re exceedingly easy to listen to, Steve. This is exactly the video I needed for my new pump installation. Also, I appreciate you sharing the link for pool supplies that aren’t available in my area. I’m looking forward to watching more videos:)
A pipe guy showed me many years ago how to Apply Teflon tape correctly, and even as a Master Electrician I have used the method always. Love to see it done right, with the correct result.
Awesome video. Very well done. Thank you for the information. The time spent here and the effort to cover everything extensively is very much appreciated.
Great general tips, appreciated! I just had a Pentair Intelliflo3 installed by a large pool supply company. Their technician installed it with less than the 5x plumbing diameter (which would be 10") foe the inlet. I called Pentair directly as I read that MINIMUM requirement and they confirmed the warranty would be VOIDED due to the install. Pretty frustrating but I understand why the tech did what he did, limited to size of pad. Spoke with supply company, they said they would honor warranty if it ever came down to it, now to get it in writing.
Thank for a great video have learn so much from it. The way the plumbing and the pump has been installed 20 years ago not very good flow like you have shown how it should be done. And as electrical is not right at all. So i will have a qualified Electrician to thoroughly check it. Many thanks, Robert.
Those union adapters are great. Many newer pumps have unions on them, but for ones that don't these are very useful when servicing a pump. They allow you to disconnect the pump from the plumbing for much easier access. Also the point you made about equipment bought online is very important. Manufacturers know by serial numbers which ones were sold through wholesale/retail, and which were sold online. If there is an issue with the pump, if bought online people have little luck getting any kind of response regarding warrantee. I'd also like to make a friendly suggestion about adding time stamps for the different topics of the videos, especially the longer ones. Lots of good info here!
I'm also quite fond of unions when working with pool plumbing. My setup originally had none, and when I switched out the sand filter, it took way too much work to do so due to uninterrupted pipe runs. Now, any device that can be removed has a union on an each inlet/outlet. When I found my filter was leaking to waste, I swapped my entire multi-port valve out because it wasn't that expensive. (I also bought the parts to refurbish the old one, so I'd have a spare.) Having those unions made it a breeze to disconnect everything.
Absolutely great video! So many details are covered well. As a homeowner I prefer working on my pool equipment myself and such vids help a lot. Thank you so much!
Very informative but I installed my pump 4 years ago. Glad I did everything correct! I preferred to use long sweep elbows because I think they improve the flow.
Thanks a lot Steve. Your advices were used today as installed yet another pump for my in-gound pool. Things I improved over the last setup: - Better teflon tape technique - 12" inch long lead on the 2" PVC intake pipe with cpvc. - 3 port diverter valve with unions praher :-) It was almost cheaper than 2 union ball valves and I saved a T . - skimmer and drain are 1.5" in the diverter and output of diverter is 2" - clear pvc/cpvc glue and I used primer before. This time I took my time cleaned all the parts (removed prices stickers located on strategic place) Dry fitted all and arrange pipes and fittings to hide markings. Result, No a single leak. And that 2HP thing moves water like hell. Many thx and keep posting those videos.
I learned so much from this video. A ton of knowledge way past installing pool pump. I really like the presentation, experience and ablsoutely the best way to install a pool pump and WHY!
As always lots of great stuff on steves channel, this one being different . Cause his videos are usually 4/5 minute long clips. So glad i got the time to watch this informative video. Ive said it before nd ill say it again .. This is by far the best channel to watch for content, nd narrative pool information, im always learning something new here. Thankyou Steve for the time ,editing nd content we do appreciate 🙏all your efforts
I’ve been installing pools for 112 years with a cutting string, a measuring stick, a bit of twine with a bolt on the end and a Coors light and plumbing almost always works.
Great video with lots of info. Thank you for sharing. I have been learning alot from all of them. With regards to the EBC (Equal Potential Bonding Conductor) per the NEC in the US we are to use a #8 solid bare copper wire. It may not be insulated and may not be stranded.
Just watched the entire video and that electrical part can TOTALLY relate to not explaining more. Often I can tell by the questions someone asks they should absolutely NOT be doing it. We've seen it all, crimps on solid wire, wire going the wrong direction around screws, 1.5hp pumps plugged into 16 gauge extension cords WITH a plug in timer, romex ran through conduit, loose push on spade connectors and bonds where someone used a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire to extend it... also putting 2 bonds under the screw clamp on the pump to connect is also not code, you must use a split bolt connector (bug). Our company hired an electrician to work for us, learned so much from him it was unreal. Also if you read the NEC you actually CAN use a plug in cord on a pump but it has to be rated for outdoor and be sized correctly, under so many feet, etc, etc but rarely do I see an install done like that correctly. Really informative video all around Steve, I actually had one of our new techs watch this in between jobs while driving. It's unfortunate so many pumps are installed incorrectly, sometimes we violate the rules, prime example someone used a valve with two streets, the pipes coming up out of the ground are too close for anything else and it's solid cement poured right around them, customer just wants a new pump, sure I can explain that this isn't ideal but chance are they won't believe it (you know, it ran fine for 20 years) and hire someone else if I charge what it'd take to cut the cement, break it up and space the pipes better. With electric as pool guys we're really not supposed to reconfigure things either without a license electrician but when I know something is beyond wrong I'll opt to make it safer or suggest they call a licensed guy to correct it, a few customer do, most do not.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial Steve. I may be setting up my equipment myself and letting my electrician do the needful connections to the box. Your web page was very informative getting me started and energized if I am unsuccessful getting someone else to do the installation. If so I’ll be reaching out to you, Cheers
I had a "professional" replace my old pumps last year. After watching this video I see he broke your first rule already. There are elbows an inch away from the intakes and outflows. Not only that he reduced a 1 1/2" PVC by using a heat gun and of course it leaked catastrophically. Your video is perfect timing. I have decent knowledge of plumbing and combined with your in depth sharing of knowledge I feel confident I can replumb this the correct way myself. I wish I could Like this video a hundred times. I will probably hire an electrician to review the install as well. I have some PVC lines that are a mystery as to where they lead. A video on tracing down lines would be helpful if you have any wisdom there.
We can only work with the space we're given if it was originally plumbed in 2 inches from the vertical suction line you just go with it, it's not ideal but if we told you we have to replumb the pump 10inches back and add another equipment slab or replumb the suction side that will require more work or more $$$ you refuse that 😂
@@charlierose1708 Totally get it. But in my situation there's PLENTY of space to plumb it with 10 inches of straight pipe at the intake. It's a faulty installation in many ways.
Hey Steve. Great job there. Thank you for sharing. I have a suggestion. How about a video about how to cut pipes and what tools to use, and another video about a correct way how to glue the pipes? Keep up the good job!
Thank you. I am happy you are enjoying these. I was unsure of this one. It did not execute in the way that I wanted. Not clear enough...but I can always try again with a better video one day in the future! Cheers.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Maybe better lighting on the electrical connection of the pump towards the end of the video. Black pump and black wire was a bit difficult to see the actual connector type, maybe I am just getting old! Otherwise it was very good. Nice to see visual aids and you in action! I recommend you to everyone I know who has a pool and get good feedback from them about your channel. Keep it up Steve!
Love the video however a diverter valve is still a ball valve but can divert to more than one direction. A knife valve or gate valve is also a reliable option
On the topic of electrical, is it common to bond the pool water (with an in line bonding fitting) in Canada? Doesn't seem anyone knows what im talking about when looking for one. All my other things are bonded as required.
from what i know about useing lacquer and other solvent based finishing is the most important thing is to have a sanded suface for the product to grab and the solvents to get into and chemicaly soften to great a bond
Ive been following your channel and finally decided to upgrade from a intex pool to a more traditional above ground pool. Those sweep 90s I’m my area in non dwv are almost impossible to find. You should get affiliate links selling them. I would buy 6 right now if you had affiliate links lol.
I know what you mean. Sweep ell fittings for pressure rated applications have only barely become available in some areas. Many still you can not find but that is often from pool owners shopping at hardware stores. Hardware stores have terrible selections for pool stuff...even the big guys. Find a pool supplier in your area and you will find you have a lot more to choose from, and more of the right stuff too
Here is a link to an online retailer with sweep ell pressure rated PVC fittings available, and there is a tracking link for me in there also: www.pntra.com/t/8-9718-298283-105063?sid=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.doheny.com%2Fplumbing-supplies-skt-x-skt-sweep-elbow
@@Swimmingpoolsteve awesome !! I will order some today . Thanks Steve !! Probably sounds hokey but you have been inspirational in my pool ownership journey 😀
I live in Hamilton Ontario. You discussed pool electrical bonding. I have a Pioneer inground pool with a concrete surface surrounding it that was installed by Pioneer Pools in 1998. There is no bonding wire on the Hayward pump or heater. Was bonding not a requirement back in 1998. The pool pump is on its own 230v breaker and wired to the pump with a black, white and a ground wire.
Maybe I missed it but with the high temp union that has an o-ring, do you still use Teflon tape and since it has an o-ring and it seems that that particular fitting should be bottomed out to full seat and seal? Thanks
Interesting you say never put anything in front of the suction line I have a Hayward power-Flo XL pump and it has a catch basin literally mounted at the end of the pump, now I do understand hydraulic pressure and I will be moving the catch Baden some distance from the pump and installing ridge pipe everywhere I can with big sweeps
I need to relocate my pump and filter a few feet which requires severing all the suction and return lines BEFORE check valves above ground and in front of the pump...what prep needs to be done for the main drain line? How to prevent the pool from draining?
Very informative and very helpful, i have question for you, can I install a check valve on the suction line before the pump in a vertical orientation and leave a 12 inch straight 2 inch pipe between the check valve and the pump as you mentioned in the video ?
Another question, at 33:18 you use a reducer bushing that requires you to have a reducer AND a fitting to connect two pipes of different sizes. Why not use a slip/slip reducer coupling, negating the need for an extra fitting?
@@michelfortin7055 I don't think so. The reducer coupling might have less resistance to flow. If you have the space to work with I don't see any disadvantage to the reducer coupling anyway
Congratulations on an excellent video. I have an AstralPool Victoria Plus Dual Speed pump that a contractor left with only the Eco (low) speed connected via a timer. He promised to return to add a manual switch for the Turbo speed which I used to use only for backwashing but it looks like he's gone AWOL. Do you have a video to show how the pump connections should be made on this model? I'm OK with installing an appropriate switch and ensuring the wiring is safe, it's just a question of which connections inside the pump should be used.
Awesome information. Question for you. I have 1 1/2" flex lines running underground to and from the equipment. What's the best set up going to and from the pump? 2" ridge PVC from the diverter valve to the pump using the high temp union reducer and then out the same way to 2" all through the equipment and then reducer back down to the pipe line underground?
Great video, super helpful. Thanks Steve. Is there benefit in merging my bottom drain and skimmers with a Wye tee? Mine come vertically out of the ground so I have an opportunity reorient them to being 45 to each other, before merging.
Wye fittings are not used on pool installations. That would be DWV. a tee would be used. But I vastly prefer running isolated plumbing lines to the equipment pad.
Great information! I have a 27’ above ground pool and need to repipe it. I only have a suction line from the skimmer. Would you recommend 1.5” suction to pump and 2” after pump? Ty!
Thanks for the videos! I have a question about a manifold. im installing 2 hayward vs900 1.85hp pumps (pump 1 cleaning and pump 2 water features). Being fed from four 2.5 inch lines (upsized from a 2 inch connection at each place) Side port for vacuum, bottom drain, x2 skimmer basket connections. Feeding: 6ft water blade, 2 direct plumb 8 inch scuppers, 2 over flow 8 inch scuppers fed from a trough, 3 deck jets, 1 arrator mister, 9 ft rain feature, Utilities: jmc16 prefilter, hayward 48 sf de filter, salt cell, solar heater The cleaner will run most of the time. Can i run all four 2.5 suction lines in to a 4 inch manifold, and then feed both pumps using two 2.5 inch horizontal feeder lines?
Great video, extremely helpful. I am trying to replace both siliconed and teflon taped connectors from my pump with High Temperature Union Threaded Male Adapters. What size adaptor should I chose for a Variable speed Hayward super pump bought in 2017. 2" or 1 1/2" male threads?
Hi Steve John from Brisbane Australia, I was wondering if you could give me some assistance please. I recently had my 20 year old 1.5hp pump replaced and an issue has come up. If I back wash or rinse then the pumps filter basket fully ‘pressurised’ and there are zero bubbles however in normal ‘filter’ mode the basket is not fully pressurised and whilst it is drawing water the water settles to a level about 2” from the top of the lid. I will also add that the filter is a brand new sand filter along with the selector mechanism that sits on top of the filter. Any thoughts on what’s wrong? Thanks john
Hi Steve. Been watching a lot of your videos. not because I want to install the stuff myself, but to make sure I have an informed conversation with my pool builder and to make sure they are trying to do the best they can. I think some don't know what they don't know. Anyway, I had a question about the pipe diameter and flow properties that you mentioned. Are the efficient Flow dynamics based on the suction side, the return side or both? If you have 2.5 in pipes on the suction side, but 2 in on the return line, what is the max efficient gpm you can achieve? Does the 2 in on the return side restrict the flow and should you insist on it being the same on both sides of the pump?
It's more complicated than that. The short answer is, no, you should not insist the pipe is the same size. The pump needs back pressure to operate properly and this often results in larger suction side pipe than on the pressure side. So many different considerations here...but I tend to have something like multiple 2" suction lines which meet at 2.5" pipe on suction side manifold. Then 2.5" though the equipment set, switching back to 2" just after the return manifold. You want to consider laminar flow potential through your trunk lines but also that you need some back pressure on the pump to avoid cavitation.
Interesting video. have seen on some pool pumps that they are specified for a maximum water temperature of 35 degrees Celsius. What happens if you have a higher water temperature then?
I use to have 47c degrees in the water.. just kidding. It is between 30 and 32c degrees in my pool. But just wondered why it says 35 degrees maximum water temperature on most pool pumps.
@@drdrew3we keep our pool at 98’… in Denver and the air is always dry and rarely hot… hottest days of year still fluctuate 40’.. day & night so jump in jump out dry air burrrrrrr… I get so excited when night temp stays out of 50’s .. with Bill Gates dimming we are not even getting our sunshine everyday we use to be able to count on.. :( (No that’s not theory.. it’s been contracted w ski resorts since the 70’s.. that’s why it’s always so dreary on the ski slopes and bright sunshine when you get away) anyway now doing here ..
Great information in this video! Very detailed! I do have one question. I'm installing my own in ground vinyl pool. It's 8' deep, with a retaining wall on one side (due to the slope of the ground). I'd like to put the pump and filter at the base of the retaining wall to get them out of sight and reduce noise. Everything I've read says this is fine, as long as you install shut off valves on every pipe to stop the flow when servicing the system. But, the pump will be ~5' below the water line. Do you foresee any issues with doing this? Will the pump be ok pumping vertically this far?
Steve, I love your channel and your intellectual approach to pool care. After watching this video (twice), I have a question regarding the street elbow you are adamantly opposed to. Because of my height restrictions on my equipment, I had no choice but to come out of the pump using the street elbow. What problems can I expect or should I look out for?
Increased resistance to flow at minimum. Cavitation and compromised hydraulic laminar flow at max. Listen for "rocks tumbling in the pump" which is the sound of (destructive) cavitation. If I hear this it is a replumb needed. Put a housekeeping pad under the filter and lift it by 3.5" to get the clearance you need for a short radius elbow or better, a sweep. Good luck. Thanks for listening to me ramble for 3 hours+ I feel that deserves recognition lol!
@Swimmingpoolsteve Steve, Thanks for the prompt reply. I've been doing my own pool repairs and service for 15 years, and I always learn something new watching your channel. I'm hoping I won't need to re-plumb. I appreciate what you do!
25 year old pool, 20x40, with a sand filter. All piping is 1.5". There are 3 x 1.5" suction lines that feed into that single 1.5" line into the pump. Then a 1.5" line out the pressure side into basically the largest Hayward sand filter they make, and out a 1.5" that breaks out into 4 x 1.5" pipes down into the ground. Not really sure there is any advantage to changing any of it to 2" considering the pipe coming out of the ground is all 1.5". Also all the Jandy valves (6 of them) that are the older style and 1.5". Moving to the new 2" Jandy will be expensive and then have to go form 1.5" to 2" coming out the ground. Haven't had any issues keeping the pool clean once the chemical levels were straightened out (troublefreepools was massive help).
I would never use flexable pvc in the ground only when encased in concrete. Had to replace a whole pools plumbing (flexable pvc) due to tree roots that grew through the wall of the pipes
CRAZY. I just installed a pentair superflo vs (got it on special 1200 on amazon) and I did the sweep elbow........only because I know aerodymics and applied my knowledge of that here. I originally had a lower rad elbow, and then switched it out, because I'm dumb and had a leak because of the cement and I didn't have 100% contact. It happens.
At 46:53 you said that when switching from 1.5 inch to 2 inch on the suction side and you have only one suction point, you can’t do it. I’m not sure I heard that correctly. I am currently abandoning my main drain and only going to utilize my skimmer and want to go with 2 inch from the skimmer to the pump. Is that permissible?
You can have a 2" pipe from skimmer to pump, yes. You can't run 1.5" pipe from thr skimmer and then change it to 2" in front of the pump. The whole line has to be 2" OR ypu have to have multiple 1.5" pipes to effectively feed a 2" pipe
FYI!! LOWE, S is selling Chinese Schd 40 where the MIP, s are failing along the thread to fitting line. Threads are separating from the slip part of the fitting! We've had to go back on 3 jobs and replumb to eliminate those fittings!! 😮😮😮😢😮
Great video Steve. Helped me a lot. I have an old pool with a single 1.5” skimmer suction line. I recently bought a Hayward Tristar VSP (1.85hp) that comes with the 2” (2.5”) black unions for both the suction inlet and pressure outlet. Was this a bad purchase? After watching your video, I feel like things would be vastly more simple if I bought a pump with 1.5” inlets.
Changing pipe size is very common. It's just one bushing. Bit having the right pump is important. This is a powerful pump which can operate without damaging itself on 1.5" pipe but that is not to say it's safe for your / every pool. How many suction lines total. Is it a long pull, or a high push to rooftop solar? What is your filter max design flow rate? Lots of questions which generally is why it is advisable to bring in a local pro. At least this is the way the pool industry wants pool owners to go.
Thanks for the quick response Steve. I have a local pro coming to my house next week to assist with the plumb in. But I’m happy to be equipped with some knowledge going into it now. I’ll probably keep the pump, as it’s going to run 24 hours a day at very slow speeds.
Hello, how can I calculate the HP of the pump if I have solar heaters that are 30ft on the roof of the house?, or should I use a second pump for this propose ?
Which is to say medium head pumps are for pushing against medium resistance to flow. If you increase resistance too much the pump moves hardly any water. In which case a pump designed for that higher range of pushing performs better on these systems
hi, where should I cut a discharge pipe that is leaking around the seal at the pump...the pipe is about 6 inches, so it is hard for me to tell (not a pro) I want to install a high temp union to fix this - The filter is sucking air
sweep elbows hard to find. lowes carries them but only at the bigger stores. they are labeled as swimming pool elbows. i usually have to make an extra 20 minute drive to get them. hey are kind of pricey, around $ 7.
My Pool company provided me with the flex for underground, should i transistion to rigid below grade? Or should i just ditch the flex and go get some rigid for everything. The pool is ready for the skimmer and returns to be plumbed.
That is a consideration too technical for a yp RUclips comment. Lots to consider. In general, rigid is superior across the board. But in cold climates you see flex on 90% of new installs.
@Swimmingpoolsteve I'm in Ontario, Canada. I just meant should I transition from the provided flex, to rigid, before going to the equipment, below grade or have the flex come up above grade then transition? In other words should any of the flex be exposed above grade (considering UV etc.) Thanks for your reply, your content is excellent!
Hey Steve! Can you or anyone else here answer this question please? I have an inground swimming pool of about 30k gallons. I recently decided to buy and install solar panels. Then I bought a solar pool pump but haven't installed it yet. How can I keep my existing pump as a back up or aid to a solar pool pump? My current setup is, water suction -> pump -> booster pump for pressure cleaner -> salt cell -> sand filter -> pressure return to pool. Thank you.
Im confused. Why worry about running 2 inch suction lines if the pump housing itself is only 1.5? Seems like any benefit you would aim to get would be taken away at that 2 inch to 1.5 inch reducer at the pump threads on the suction side.
The inefficiency is momentary in the pipe section where the restriction exists. It does not limit the entirety of the system efficiency so there is benefit in improving all areas of the system. Most pumps come with 2 and 2.5" native ports these days. Rarely 1.5" ports, and even when so, simply change to 2" pipe immediately out of the intake and outlet. This is pretty normal for pool equipment and only adds a minor increase in total restriction to flow / laminar flow potential
Not sure if you’re still checking comments on a video this old. Having a new pool installed and our Jandy manual has the sweep 90 directly into the pump as a better option than 4x pipe diameter.
my Pentair Intelliflow VS install manual says in big capital letters DO NOT install 90degree elbows directly into pump (voids warranty), I see your setup has a 90 sweep elbow on the outflow top of the pump. They don't give a reason, and I have no idea what difference that would make frankly. Comments?
U mentioned a sheilded bonfong wire. I thought the wire needed to be unshielded so it could contact earth while running the perimeter and f the pool, 4-6" deep??
Will have to watch the rest later but did want to jump in and say flex pipe underground is not a good idea in many areas. Grubs eat the stuff turning it into swiss cheese. Flex can also become hydrophobic very easily in the presence of low pH (yes, I know pool owners should maintain pH but the reality is not all do). We use the old stuff but the greenflex variety of poly pipe, that stuff I see in the ground lasting 50 years, in fact Cascade had an actual aqua colored version in the 60's and it's lasted on some pool, generally the failure point are the cheap nylon fittings (champion pools was known for using them). Building a new pool I may use hard PVC but for replacement pipes which we do many of the poly pipe is really the best way to go. When flex becomes hydrophobic it kinks or even pops out of the ground like a sea serpent, bad stuff all around in any situation. Those high temp Praher unions are great, I wish companies like Hayward would incorporate union connectors on their multiports.
As someone working on a pool that they inherited through a house purchase, the one thing that I'd stress more than anything... please give yourself ample piping to work with. I was going to install a variable speed pump before opening the pool this year, and honestly... after I took a look at the inlet piping to the pump, I just gave up. It's definitely doable, but since I'd like to move within a few years, the amount of effort just isn't worth it. The problem is that there are just literally no bare pieces of pipe for me to cut and modify to get the ~1" of additional height that I need to properly reach the variable speed pump's inlet. (I tried to use the pump without the bracket -- as noted in the manual -- but it was still not aligned well.) So, so much of the pipe is taken up by valves, couplers, angled adapters, and a union that the only option that I have is to dig up a good 6-12" of dirt around the two inlet pipes, cut them, and rework the run. Although, given that I think there may be a leak in the skimmer's line, it might not be the worst idea to dig up even more and rerun the lines to allow for longer a longer inlet run. There's currently maybe a total of a 1.5 to 2 feet from when the pipe comes out of the ground and gets to the pump's inlet.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Steve, you are amazing. About 4 years ago, we moved to a home in a very remote area of the mountains of east Tennessee. 30 minute drive to nearest town. 50,000 gallon in ground pool. We are about 1.5 hours from the nearest pool service company. Nearly impossible to get them to come all the way out to us. When they finally did come, the tech was stinking of alcohol on his first service call. Second service call, he demonstrated his lack of knowledge and experience when he told me the pool equipment did NOT need to be bonded. "Oh, don't worry about all that - GFI's are more than adequate". I decided it was not safe for my family to swim in a pool plumbed and wired by people I don't trust will do everything safely. So I started watching your videos (about 3 years ago) and replumbed everything - new pump, new filter, new heater, (and no 90 degree elbows!). You have taught me so many important lessons - from basic plumbing to critical life safety issues. I feel like I know you! Most importantly, nobody has drowned, been injured, become entrapped and/or suffered an electric shock when swimming in our pool -- all of which I attribute to YOU. PS, reading your life story on your website, learning all that you have gone through medically, etc, showed me a whole new side of you. I learned that you are so much more than some very serious guy on youtube called "Swimming Pool Steve". You are a brilliant and courageous man. And an inspirational human being to me. Peace, blessings, and endless thanks from the foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
Thank you so much for your kind words and incredible super thanks! Very much appreciated on this end!
Retired teacher here from Lindsay, Ontario…you missed your calling in the education system! You’re exceedingly easy to listen to, Steve. This is exactly the video I needed for my new pump installation. Also, I appreciate you sharing the link for pool supplies that aren’t available in my area. I’m looking forward to watching more videos:)
This might be the best video I've ever seen in my 10 years of being on youtube. Great job! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
You are a natural born teacher! Well done, and very helpful.
Nice to see longer and more comprehensive videos!!
Your decades of knowledge are very useful
Thank you for watching and commenting.
A pipe guy showed me many years ago how to Apply Teflon tape correctly, and even as a Master Electrician I have used the method always. Love to see it done right, with the correct result.
Great video! I'm a pool tech with 13 years experience. I watched your video to see if you were giving misinformation but you were spot on. Good job!
Awesome video. Very well done. Thank you for the information. The time spent here and the effort to cover everything extensively is very much appreciated.
Great general tips, appreciated! I just had a Pentair Intelliflo3 installed by a large pool supply company. Their technician installed it with less than the 5x plumbing diameter (which would be 10") foe the inlet. I called Pentair directly as I read that MINIMUM requirement and they confirmed the warranty would be VOIDED due to the install. Pretty frustrating but I understand why the tech did what he did, limited to size of pad. Spoke with supply company, they said they would honor warranty if it ever came down to it, now to get it in writing.
Thanks so much for all the useful information!👍
Thank you!
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you for the help.
Thank for a great video have learn so much from it. The way the plumbing and the pump has been installed 20 years ago not very good flow like you have shown how it should be done. And as electrical is not right at all. So i will have a qualified Electrician to thoroughly check it. Many thanks, Robert.
This is an awesome video for anybody who is interested in installing a pool pump. Thank you. Thank you very much.
Those union adapters are great. Many newer pumps have unions on them, but for ones that don't these are very useful when servicing a pump. They allow you to disconnect the pump from the plumbing for much easier access.
Also the point you made about equipment bought online is very important. Manufacturers know by serial numbers which ones were sold through wholesale/retail, and which were sold online.
If there is an issue with the pump, if bought online people have little luck getting any kind of response regarding warrantee.
I'd also like to make a friendly suggestion about adding time stamps for the different topics of the videos, especially the longer ones.
Lots of good info here!
great suggestions and feedback, thank you
I'm also quite fond of unions when working with pool plumbing. My setup originally had none, and when I switched out the sand filter, it took way too much work to do so due to uninterrupted pipe runs. Now, any device that can be removed has a union on an each inlet/outlet. When I found my filter was leaking to waste, I swapped my entire multi-port valve out because it wasn't that expensive. (I also bought the parts to refurbish the old one, so I'd have a spare.) Having those unions made it a breeze to disconnect everything.
Coming back here for one quick comment.
This video was very critical for me when I just installed my VS.
I followed all of the advise.
Absolutely great video! So many details are covered well. As a homeowner I prefer working on my pool equipment myself and such vids help a lot. Thank you so much!
Very informative but I installed my pump 4 years ago. Glad I did everything correct! I preferred to use long sweep elbows because I think they improve the flow.
Thanks a lot Steve. Your advices were used today as installed yet another pump for my in-gound pool.
Things I improved over the last setup:
- Better teflon tape technique
- 12" inch long lead on the 2" PVC intake pipe with cpvc.
- 3 port diverter valve with unions praher :-) It was almost cheaper than 2 union ball valves and I saved a T .
- skimmer and drain are 1.5" in the diverter and output of diverter is 2"
- clear pvc/cpvc glue and I used primer before.
This time I took my time cleaned all the parts (removed prices stickers located on strategic place)
Dry fitted all and arrange pipes and fittings to hide markings.
Result, No a single leak. And that 2HP thing moves water like hell.
Many thx and keep posting those videos.
WOW, I think I know more than my pro now! Thanks!!!!
I learned so much from this video. A ton of knowledge way past installing pool pump. I really like the presentation, experience and ablsoutely the best way to install a pool pump and WHY!
Thank you. I am happy you found this content helpful
As always lots of great stuff on steves channel, this one being different . Cause his videos are usually 4/5 minute long clips.
So glad i got the time to watch this informative video.
Ive said it before nd ill say it again ..
This is by far the best channel to watch for content, nd narrative pool information, im always learning something new here.
Thankyou Steve for the time ,editing nd content we do appreciate 🙏all your efforts
I’ve been installing pools for 112 years with a cutting string, a measuring stick, a bit of twine with a bolt on the end and a Coors light and plumbing almost always works.
I love videos like this.
A professional efficiently dumping their knowledge for the 'normies' to use.
Best Gar Don Pool video I have ever seen, Steve, keep ‘‘em coming. Love you. Blessings 🙏
Great video with lots of info. Thank you for sharing. I have been learning alot from all of them. With regards to the EBC (Equal Potential Bonding Conductor) per the NEC in the US we are to use a #8 solid bare copper wire. It may not be insulated and may not be stranded.
Excellent video, we keep learning, very well explained.
Thank you. I am happy you found this helpful.
Excellent presentation.. FYI, the US NEC allows a bare (or insulated) bonding conductor.. The EGC must be green insulated..
Just watched the entire video and that electrical part can TOTALLY relate to not explaining more. Often I can tell by the questions someone asks they should absolutely NOT be doing it. We've seen it all, crimps on solid wire, wire going the wrong direction around screws, 1.5hp pumps plugged into 16 gauge extension cords WITH a plug in timer, romex ran through conduit, loose push on spade connectors and bonds where someone used a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire to extend it... also putting 2 bonds under the screw clamp on the pump to connect is also not code, you must use a split bolt connector (bug). Our company hired an electrician to work for us, learned so much from him it was unreal. Also if you read the NEC you actually CAN use a plug in cord on a pump but it has to be rated for outdoor and be sized correctly, under so many feet, etc, etc but rarely do I see an install done like that correctly. Really informative video all around Steve, I actually had one of our new techs watch this in between jobs while driving. It's unfortunate so many pumps are installed incorrectly, sometimes we violate the rules, prime example someone used a valve with two streets, the pipes coming up out of the ground are too close for anything else and it's solid cement poured right around them, customer just wants a new pump, sure I can explain that this isn't ideal but chance are they won't believe it (you know, it ran fine for 20 years) and hire someone else if I charge what it'd take to cut the cement, break it up and space the pipes better. With electric as pool guys we're really not supposed to reconfigure things either without a license electrician but when I know something is beyond wrong I'll opt to make it safer or suggest they call a licensed guy to correct it, a few customer do, most do not.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial Steve. I may be setting up my equipment myself and letting my electrician do the needful connections to the box. Your web page was very informative getting me started and energized if I am unsuccessful getting someone else to do the installation. If so I’ll be reaching out to you, Cheers
Good luck!
Thanks for the information, i need to replace my Old 1 speed pump with a new variable one
Outstanding tutorial, thank you!!!
I had a "professional" replace my old pumps last year. After watching this video I see he broke your first rule already. There are elbows an inch away from the intakes and outflows. Not only that he reduced a 1 1/2" PVC by using a heat gun and of course it leaked catastrophically. Your video is perfect timing. I have decent knowledge of plumbing and combined with your in depth sharing of knowledge I feel confident I can replumb this the correct way myself. I wish I could Like this video a hundred times. I will probably hire an electrician to review the install as well.
I have some PVC lines that are a mystery as to where they lead. A video on tracing down lines would be helpful if you have any wisdom there.
We can only work with the space we're given if it was originally plumbed in 2 inches from the vertical suction line you just go with it, it's not ideal but if we told you we have to replumb the pump 10inches back and add another equipment slab or replumb the suction side that will require more work or more $$$ you refuse that 😂
@@charlierose1708 Totally get it. But in my situation there's PLENTY of space to plumb it with 10 inches of straight pipe at the intake. It's a faulty installation in many ways.
Cant tell you how many times I've had to go fix a new pump installed.
Hey Steve. Great job there. Thank you for sharing.
I have a suggestion. How about a video about how to cut pipes and what tools to use, and another video about a correct way how to glue the pipes?
Keep up the good job!
Great ideas - will do!
Thanks for the very informative video, Steve. I really enjoy watching your videos and the wealth of information you provide. Keep it up!
Thank you. I am happy you are enjoying these. I was unsure of this one. It did not execute in the way that I wanted. Not clear enough...but I can always try again with a better video one day in the future! Cheers.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Maybe better lighting on the electrical connection of the pump towards the end of the video. Black pump and black wire was a bit difficult to see the actual connector type, maybe I am just getting old! Otherwise it was very good. Nice to see visual aids and you in action! I recommend you to everyone I know who has a pool and get good feedback from them about your channel. Keep it up Steve!
Wow I learned so much!! This is College!
Wow so much great information
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻
Great video. Helped me a lot on my first install
This is a fantastic video. I learned so much from it. Thank you. One question, where do you recommend finding the PVC? Thank you
Love the video however a diverter valve is still a ball valve but can divert to more than one direction. A knife valve or gate valve is also a reliable option
On the topic of electrical, is it common to bond the pool water (with an in line bonding fitting) in Canada? Doesn't seem anyone knows what im talking about when looking for one. All my other things are bonded as required.
from what i know about useing lacquer and other solvent based finishing is the most important thing is to have a sanded suface for the product to grab and the solvents to get into and chemicaly soften to great a bond
Wow I did learn so much
Ive been following your channel and finally decided to upgrade from a intex pool to a more traditional above ground pool. Those sweep 90s I’m my area in non dwv are almost impossible to find. You should get affiliate links selling them. I would buy 6 right now if you had affiliate links lol.
I know what you mean. Sweep ell fittings for pressure rated applications have only barely become available in some areas. Many still you can not find but that is often from pool owners shopping at hardware stores. Hardware stores have terrible selections for pool stuff...even the big guys. Find a pool supplier in your area and you will find you have a lot more to choose from, and more of the right stuff too
Here is a link to an online retailer with sweep ell pressure rated PVC fittings available, and there is a tracking link for me in there also: www.pntra.com/t/8-9718-298283-105063?sid=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.doheny.com%2Fplumbing-supplies-skt-x-skt-sweep-elbow
@@Swimmingpoolsteve awesome !! I will order some today . Thanks Steve !! Probably sounds hokey but you have been inspirational in my pool ownership journey 😀
@shannon1872 that is a big part of the fuel that makes me do this! If not for positive feedback I would have quit 9 years ago!
I live in Hamilton Ontario. You discussed pool electrical bonding. I have a Pioneer inground pool with a concrete surface surrounding it that was installed by Pioneer Pools in 1998. There is no bonding wire on the Hayward pump or heater. Was bonding not a requirement back in 1998. The pool pump is on its own 230v breaker and wired to the pump with a black, white and a ground wire.
Have you looked into a GFCI?
Thanks so much for sharing your vast knowledge. This video is truly incredible!!!
Maybe I missed it but with the high temp union that has an o-ring, do you still use Teflon tape and since it has an o-ring and it seems that that particular fitting should be bottomed out to full seat and seal? Thanks
This is amazing, and so helpful! Thank you!
Interesting you say never put anything in front of the suction line I have a Hayward power-Flo XL pump and it has a catch basin literally mounted at the end of the pump, now I do understand hydraulic pressure and I will be moving the catch Baden some distance from the pump and installing ridge pipe everywhere I can with big sweeps
I need to relocate my pump and filter a few feet which requires severing all the suction and return lines BEFORE check valves above ground and in front of the pump...what prep needs to be done for the main drain line? How to prevent the pool from draining?
Very informative and very helpful, i have question for you, can I install a check valve on the suction line before the pump in a vertical orientation and leave a 12 inch straight 2 inch pipe between the check valve and the pump as you mentioned in the video ?
Another question, at 33:18 you use a reducer bushing that requires you to have a reducer AND a fitting to connect two pipes of different sizes. Why not use a slip/slip reducer coupling, negating the need for an extra fitting?
@@michelfortin7055 cost. The reducer coupling is more expensive than a reducer bushing
@@Swimmingpoolsteve So, except for cost, there is no other drawback?
@@michelfortin7055 I don't think so. The reducer coupling might have less resistance to flow. If you have the space to work with I don't see any disadvantage to the reducer coupling anyway
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thanks, I'll go that route since here in Canada it's actually cheaper to buy this lone part than the total of the other two.😕
Congratulations on an excellent video. I have an AstralPool Victoria Plus Dual Speed pump that a contractor left with only the Eco (low) speed connected via a timer. He promised to return to add a manual switch for the Turbo speed which I used to use only for backwashing but it looks like he's gone AWOL. Do you have a video to show how the pump connections should be made on this model? I'm OK with installing an appropriate switch and ensuring the wiring is safe, it's just a question of which connections inside the pump should be used.
Thank you for sharing your considerable knowledge. It's really helpful 👍
I am happy this content was useful for you
Awesome information. Question for you. I have 1 1/2" flex lines running underground to and from the equipment. What's the best set up going to and from the pump? 2" ridge PVC from the diverter valve to the pump using the high temp union reducer and then out the same way to 2" all through the equipment and then reducer back down to the pipe line underground?
Great video, super helpful. Thanks Steve. Is there benefit in merging my bottom drain and skimmers with a Wye tee? Mine come vertically out of the ground so I have an opportunity reorient them to being 45 to each other, before merging.
Wye fittings are not used on pool installations. That would be DWV. a tee would be used. But I vastly prefer running isolated plumbing lines to the equipment pad.
Great information! I have a 27’ above ground pool and need to repipe it. I only have a suction line from the skimmer. Would you recommend 1.5” suction to pump and 2” after pump? Ty!
Thanks for the videos! I have a question about a manifold.
im installing 2 hayward vs900 1.85hp pumps (pump 1 cleaning and pump 2 water features).
Being fed from four 2.5 inch lines (upsized from a 2 inch connection at each place)
Side port for vacuum, bottom drain, x2 skimmer basket connections.
Feeding:
6ft water blade,
2 direct plumb 8 inch scuppers,
2 over flow 8 inch scuppers fed from a trough,
3 deck jets,
1 arrator mister,
9 ft rain feature,
Utilities: jmc16 prefilter, hayward 48 sf de filter, salt cell, solar heater
The cleaner will run most of the time. Can i run all four 2.5 suction lines in to a 4 inch manifold, and then feed both pumps using two 2.5 inch horizontal feeder lines?
great job and info
Thank you
Dude and street 90"s are great if you know how to use them
Great video, extremely helpful. I am trying to replace both siliconed and teflon taped connectors from my pump with High Temperature Union Threaded Male Adapters. What size adaptor should I chose for a Variable speed Hayward super pump bought in 2017. 2" or 1 1/2" male threads?
@michelfortin7055 very likely the pump is 2" port sizes
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Great, thanks for the quick reply.
Great info, my suggestion is, to hear you better, you may want to get an external mic for your camera.
Hi Steve John from Brisbane Australia, I was wondering if you could give me some assistance please. I recently had my 20 year old 1.5hp pump replaced and an issue has come up. If I back wash or rinse then the pumps filter basket fully ‘pressurised’ and there are zero bubbles however in normal ‘filter’ mode the basket is not fully pressurised and whilst it is drawing water the water settles to a level about 2” from the top of the lid. I will also add that the filter is a brand new sand filter along with the selector mechanism that sits on top of the filter. Any thoughts on what’s wrong? Thanks john
Thank you for this video very informative
I am happy you found this content helpful. And thank you for commenting also!
Do you gave a video on WEF and the pump?
Hi Steve. Been watching a lot of your videos. not because I want to install the stuff myself, but to make sure I have an informed conversation with my pool builder and to make sure they are trying to do the best they can. I think some don't know what they don't know.
Anyway, I had a question about the pipe diameter and flow properties that you mentioned. Are the efficient Flow dynamics based on the suction side, the return side or both? If you have 2.5 in pipes on the suction side, but 2 in on the return line, what is the max efficient gpm you can achieve? Does the 2 in on the return side restrict the flow and should you insist on it being the same on both sides of the pump?
It's more complicated than that. The short answer is, no, you should not insist the pipe is the same size. The pump needs back pressure to operate properly and this often results in larger suction side pipe than on the pressure side. So many different considerations here...but I tend to have something like multiple 2" suction lines which meet at 2.5" pipe on suction side manifold. Then 2.5" though the equipment set, switching back to 2" just after the return manifold. You want to consider laminar flow potential through your trunk lines but also that you need some back pressure on the pump to avoid cavitation.
Appreciate it buddy👌👌👌👌👌
Interesting video. have seen on some pool pumps that they are specified for a maximum water temperature of 35 degrees Celsius. What happens if you have a higher water temperature then?
Does your pool water temperature really stay above 35C? That doesn’t sound refreshing at all - that’s approaching hot tub temp
I use to have 47c degrees in the water.. just kidding. It is between 30 and 32c degrees in my pool. But just wondered why it says 35 degrees maximum water temperature on most pool pumps.
@@drdrew3we keep our pool at 98’… in Denver and the air is always dry and rarely hot… hottest days of year still fluctuate 40’.. day & night
so jump in jump out dry air burrrrrrr…
I get so excited when night temp stays out of 50’s .. with Bill Gates dimming we are not even getting our sunshine everyday we use to be able to count on.. :(
(No that’s not theory.. it’s been contracted w ski resorts since the 70’s.. that’s why it’s always so dreary on the ski slopes and bright sunshine when you get away) anyway now doing here ..
What about Plasto-Joint Stik thread sealant? Formulated for PVC threaded joints.
Great information in this video! Very detailed! I do have one question. I'm installing my own in ground vinyl pool. It's 8' deep, with a retaining wall on one side (due to the slope of the ground). I'd like to put the pump and filter at the base of the retaining wall to get them out of sight and reduce noise. Everything I've read says this is fine, as long as you install shut off valves on every pipe to stop the flow when servicing the system. But, the pump will be ~5' below the water line. Do you foresee any issues with doing this? Will the pump be ok pumping vertically this far?
Can you provide a link to the silicone you recommend for using on threaded joints? Thanks!
Steve,
I love your channel and your intellectual approach to pool care. After watching this video (twice), I have a question regarding the street elbow you are adamantly opposed to. Because of my height restrictions on my equipment, I had no choice but to come out of the pump using the street elbow. What problems can I expect or should I look out for?
Increased resistance to flow at minimum. Cavitation and compromised hydraulic laminar flow at max. Listen for "rocks tumbling in the pump" which is the sound of (destructive) cavitation. If I hear this it is a replumb needed. Put a housekeeping pad under the filter and lift it by 3.5" to get the clearance you need for a short radius elbow or better, a sweep. Good luck. Thanks for listening to me ramble for 3 hours+ I feel that deserves recognition lol!
@Swimmingpoolsteve
Steve,
Thanks for the prompt reply. I've been doing my own pool repairs and service for 15 years, and I always learn something new watching your channel. I'm hoping I won't need to re-plumb.
I appreciate what you do!
wow great video. excellent excellent
25 year old pool, 20x40, with a sand filter. All piping is 1.5". There are 3 x 1.5" suction lines that feed into that single 1.5" line into the pump. Then a 1.5" line out the pressure side into basically the largest Hayward sand filter they make, and out a 1.5" that breaks out into 4 x 1.5" pipes down into the ground. Not really sure there is any advantage to changing any of it to 2" considering the pipe coming out of the ground is all 1.5". Also all the Jandy valves (6 of them) that are the older style and 1.5". Moving to the new 2" Jandy will be expensive and then have to go form 1.5" to 2" coming out the ground.
Haven't had any issues keeping the pool clean once the chemical levels were straightened out (troublefreepools was massive help).
Hold the wrench the opposite way. The wrench tightens under pressure, kinda like the Teflon. (when putting in the suction line male adapter)
I would never use flexable pvc in the ground only when encased in concrete. Had to replace a whole pools plumbing (flexable pvc) due to tree roots that grew through the wall of the pipes
CRAZY. I just installed a pentair superflo vs (got it on special 1200 on amazon) and I did the sweep elbow........only because I know aerodymics and applied my knowledge of that here. I originally had a lower rad elbow, and then switched it out, because I'm dumb and had a leak because of the cement and I didn't have 100% contact. It happens.
At 46:53 you said that when switching from 1.5 inch to 2 inch on the suction side and you have only one suction point, you can’t do it. I’m not sure I heard that correctly. I am currently abandoning my main drain and only going to utilize my skimmer and want to go with 2 inch from the skimmer to the pump. Is that permissible?
You can have a 2" pipe from skimmer to pump, yes. You can't run 1.5" pipe from thr skimmer and then change it to 2" in front of the pump. The whole line has to be 2" OR ypu have to have multiple 1.5" pipes to effectively feed a 2" pipe
Should the suction inlet of the pool pump be outfitted with a none return check value
Steve thank you bro
FYI!! LOWE, S is selling Chinese Schd 40 where the MIP, s are failing along the thread to fitting line. Threads are separating from the slip part of the fitting!
We've had to go back on 3 jobs and replumb to eliminate those fittings!! 😮😮😮😢😮
Wow! Which brand?
Great video Steve. Helped me a lot. I have an old pool with a single 1.5” skimmer suction line. I recently bought a Hayward Tristar VSP (1.85hp) that comes with the 2” (2.5”) black unions for both the suction inlet and pressure outlet. Was this a bad purchase? After watching your video, I feel like things would be vastly more simple if I bought a pump with 1.5” inlets.
Changing pipe size is very common. It's just one bushing. Bit having the right pump is important. This is a powerful pump which can operate without damaging itself on 1.5" pipe but that is not to say it's safe for your / every pool. How many suction lines total. Is it a long pull, or a high push to rooftop solar? What is your filter max design flow rate? Lots of questions which generally is why it is advisable to bring in a local pro. At least this is the way the pool industry wants pool owners to go.
Thanks for the quick response Steve. I have a local pro coming to my house next week to assist with the plumb in. But I’m happy to be equipped with some knowledge going into it now. I’ll probably keep the pump, as it’s going to run 24 hours a day at very slow speeds.
Great video
What if my pump has 2” but I have only one line. Do I need to reduce to 1 1/2
Hello, how can I calculate the HP of the pump if I have solar heaters that are 30ft on the roof of the house?, or should I use a second pump for this propose ?
Thank you 🛎❤️🇨🇦
Hello Steve , can you tell me the difference between a high head and low head Hayward pump and even if there is such a thing .
Medium head is super pump and maxflo pumps. Higher head is the tristar 900 and Tristar 950
Which is to say medium head pumps are for pushing against medium resistance to flow. If you increase resistance too much the pump moves hardly any water. In which case a pump designed for that higher range of pushing performs better on these systems
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Ok Steve I got a little better idea of what I need . Thank you .
hi, where should I cut a discharge pipe that is leaking around the seal at the pump...the pipe is about 6 inches, so it is hard for me to tell (not a pro) I want to install a high temp union to fix this - The filter is sucking air
Very good video
Thank you
sweep elbows hard to find. lowes carries them but only at the bigger stores. they are labeled as swimming pool elbows. i usually have to make an extra 20 minute drive to get them. hey are kind of pricey, around $ 7.
pool suppliers should all have them also. Lowes and other hardware store chains usually have very little in the way of pool specific stuff.
My Pool company provided me with the flex for underground, should i transistion to rigid below grade? Or should i just ditch the flex and go get some rigid for everything. The pool is ready for the skimmer and returns to be plumbed.
That is a consideration too technical for a yp
RUclips comment. Lots to consider. In general, rigid is superior across the board. But in cold climates you see flex on 90% of new installs.
@Swimmingpoolsteve I'm in Ontario, Canada. I just meant should I transition from the provided flex, to rigid, before going to the equipment, below grade or have the flex come up above grade then transition? In other words should any of the flex be exposed above grade (considering UV etc.) Thanks for your reply, your content is excellent!
You normally transition above ground. Rigid pipe would need a pipe chase to exit the ground in an area with freeze and thaw and still might crack.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thank you!
Hey Steve! Can you or anyone else here answer this question please? I have an inground swimming pool of about 30k gallons. I recently decided to buy and install solar panels. Then I bought a solar pool pump but haven't installed it yet. How can I keep my existing pump as a back up or aid to a solar pool pump? My current setup is, water suction -> pump -> booster pump for pressure cleaner -> salt cell -> sand filter -> pressure return to pool. Thank you.
Im confused. Why worry about running 2 inch suction lines if the pump housing itself is only 1.5? Seems like any benefit you would aim to get would be taken away at that 2 inch to 1.5 inch reducer at the pump threads on the suction side.
The inefficiency is momentary in the pipe section where the restriction exists. It does not limit the entirety of the system efficiency so there is benefit in improving all areas of the system. Most pumps come with 2 and 2.5" native ports these days. Rarely 1.5" ports, and even when so, simply change to 2" pipe immediately out of the intake and outlet. This is pretty normal for pool equipment and only adds a minor increase in total restriction to flow / laminar flow potential
Not sure if you’re still checking comments on a video this old. Having a new pool installed and our Jandy manual has the sweep 90 directly into the pump as a better option than 4x pipe diameter.
my Pentair Intelliflow VS install manual says in big capital letters DO NOT install 90degree elbows directly into pump (voids warranty), I see your setup has a 90 sweep elbow on the outflow top of the pump. They don't give a reason, and I have no idea what difference that would make frankly. Comments?
Thanks for the vid
Why does water spurt out the clean out lid every time I shut off the pump? 1 1/2 hp motor with sand filter. 2" inlet and 2: outlet like you say..
U mentioned a sheilded bonfong wire. I thought the wire needed to be unshielded so it could contact earth while running the perimeter and f the pool, 4-6" deep??
Depends on where you live and whether you are under NEC or CEC code
Ive got a 1.5hp pentair pump, how do i find high temp unions that thread onto the pump? Really want to avoid the 1.5" thread into unions.
Good Luck. I could not find any so Hayward sent me a P/N. It turned out to a regular PVC type.
Will have to watch the rest later but did want to jump in and say flex pipe underground is not a good idea in many areas. Grubs eat the stuff turning it into swiss cheese. Flex can also become hydrophobic very easily in the presence of low pH (yes, I know pool owners should maintain pH but the reality is not all do). We use the old stuff but the greenflex variety of poly pipe, that stuff I see in the ground lasting 50 years, in fact Cascade had an actual aqua colored version in the 60's and it's lasted on some pool, generally the failure point are the cheap nylon fittings (champion pools was known for using them). Building a new pool I may use hard PVC but for replacement pipes which we do many of the poly pipe is really the best way to go. When flex becomes hydrophobic it kinks or even pops out of the ground like a sea serpent, bad stuff all around in any situation. Those high temp Praher unions are great, I wish companies like Hayward would incorporate union connectors on their multiports.
As someone working on a pool that they inherited through a house purchase, the one thing that I'd stress more than anything... please give yourself ample piping to work with. I was going to install a variable speed pump before opening the pool this year, and honestly... after I took a look at the inlet piping to the pump, I just gave up. It's definitely doable, but since I'd like to move within a few years, the amount of effort just isn't worth it. The problem is that there are just literally no bare pieces of pipe for me to cut and modify to get the ~1" of additional height that I need to properly reach the variable speed pump's inlet. (I tried to use the pump without the bracket -- as noted in the manual -- but it was still not aligned well.) So, so much of the pipe is taken up by valves, couplers, angled adapters, and a union that the only option that I have is to dig up a good 6-12" of dirt around the two inlet pipes, cut them, and rework the run.
Although, given that I think there may be a leak in the skimmer's line, it might not be the worst idea to dig up even more and rerun the lines to allow for longer a longer inlet run. There's currently maybe a total of a 1.5 to 2 feet from when the pipe comes out of the ground and gets to the pump's inlet.
can I use a swimming pool pump on a well pump system?