The way we learned about the impact of diameter on flow in the circulatory system is to use straws: a regular straw, a coffee stirrer, and one of those big reusable straws. It doesn't take long to see how much harder you have to work to suck through the coffee stirrer. I can see how having your pump do that extra work is an issue. That's not even considering the additional turbulence caused by the friction at that flow rate.
Great content! I have a water heater(portable) with 1/2 outlets and I was WRACKING my brain against what home depot has in stock for cpvc (which is not a lot). I mistakingly bought 1 inch pipes because I figured better flow, but could not find ANY bushings at the store to fit. It was frustrating because I thought I knew what I was doing, but just lack of materials in front me made me SPIRAL!
hi. thanks for your video. it really explained things to me. I am wondering (and this is how i got to your video) i am installing a hayward heat pro heat pump for my above ground pool 33x18. above grounds have flexible hoses of 1.5". the pump is 2 inches. is this going to be a big issue? my pump is 1.5 HP.
Thank you Steve for all the videos, they are very helpful and full of information. Question for you. I’m replacing my 1hp pump for my 18x36 pool with a VS Hayward 2.7hp. All the lines are 1.5” is it ok to replace ALL the filter, heat pump to 2”? Should I just keep all 1.5”?
I have a 26k gallon inground pool (23 years old) and my plumbing to and from the pool is 1/12 inch. I have had to replace my motor a few time and the kit with the bushings, seals, gaskets. I am looking at a whole new strainer pump and motor to replace the whole thing instead of just the motor. Most of the 1 hp, 115 volt pumps seem to have a 2 inch inlet and outlet. Will this cause the problem you speak of? Also my current motor says it has 3450 rpm but I have read that these single phase 1hp motors have 3100. If this is the case would that lower rpm help me in reducing velocity? Thanks
I have 1.5" coming out of the ground from pool and into the pool everything else is 2". Would this really make a difference? Shouldn't it all be 2" pipe for flow to flow at same pressure? And how can this be fixed without breaking concrete and re-pipe the whole pool?
What if im running say 200 extra ft of pvc pipe which acts as an added solar system. Because of the extra length that the water must flow, show if then downside from 1.5 to say 1” or 3/4”?
Suction is more important than the pressure side when it comes to flow efficiency. Both matter, but the suction side matters more. In addition, the pump needs back pressure or it will cavitate so a larger suction line than the pressure side is okay, but not the opposite. Never a small suction line and large pressure side line. So yes, you can do the suction only and thats ok. If you did pressure side also that is probably even better. Hard to say without information about this specific pool and equipment installation. Every pool is unique!
Hi Steve. First let me start by saying thanks for the great content. Being a new pool owner I have learned tons from your videos. I do have a quick question. I have a single speed 1.5 HP Pentair pump (220Volts) and want to upgrade to a variable speed. The entire plumbing system for the pool is 2". At this time Pentair pumps are hard to come by. I believe I can get a Pentair Intelliflow XF pump. It's much more pump than I need but I can limit the Max flow. My question is the intake and discharge ports for this pump is 2 1/2" Do you think it would be ok to use a 2 1/2" to 2" bushing at the ports of this pump?
No I do not like that setup. That pump really needs more than a 2" supply line. Even more of a concern if you also have a sand filter as they can not handle that much flow. I really think the XF is too much pump. The superflo 342001 or the Superflo VST 342002 would be comparable to what you have now.
For a new installation, given that the equipment is mostly 2" connectors, what's the ideal size of the pipes going to/from the pool? Should I have everything as 2", or should I go up a size to 2.5"?
So I have 2" (1)return and (1)suction and had a 1hp motor with 2" connections. I found a replacement with same size motor but comes with 1.5" fittings. Can this damage the pump?
My new above ground pool came with a pump and filter that both have 1.5 fittings. But the heater is 2”. Can I increase to 2” right from the equipment so it will match the heater?
Okay, so I was worried about this: We want to install our own solar heater that hooks in to our current system. But we were going to use sprinkler hose and coil it which would provide a lot of resistance which would result in higher pressure in my filter if I placed it after, or lower pressure if I placed it before. But what I was thinking to get around this is to have a three way valve so that water could flow in its normal path and allow some of it to be redirected to the solar coil. The only trouble is that the branch to the hose would go straight up and have to fight gravity. So I don't think enough water would go up to the solar coils to be heated. Thus I thought maybe if I transitioned to 1.25 inch pipe from 1.5" on my normal flow it would increase resistance enough for more water to flow up towards my solar coil. So my questions are: A. In theory would this work without putting too much pressure on the filter? B. Would I even need to change my pipe size to have the water go up to my solar coils? C. If it Would work would it be better to place the three way valve before or after my filter? D. Is there a better way that doesn't include making a new system with a sump pump? (we already have so much clutter in the pool with robots and such)
If suction and return are 1.5" and you want to change to 2" for everything on the pad, should you change to 2" before the pump inlet or at the pump outlet or down the line from the pump?
You would need multiple 1.5" suction lines to do this, and you would change to 2" at the suction side manifold in front of the pump to avoid a choke point for the multiple converging 1.5" pipes
@@Swimmingpoolsteve First, Thank You so much for answering my question! Which is better to use to converge the 2" lines together before the pump - a 3-port Diverter valve, a 90 degree elbow & T-joint or something like a Waterway manifold wye used to combine instead of splitting?
If I have 3 suction lines (2 skimmers and a main drain) and 3 return lines with 1.5" plumbing, would it be smart to upsize to 2" on the pad between suction and return valves?
It would. You would benefit to increase the pipe size at the suction manifold w So your three suction lines do not connect via another 1.5" line. You want them to connect with a 2" line to get the most flow efficiency. The most twists and turns in your system happen on the equipment pad so slowing water velocity in this section is beneficial.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you for this reply. I am in a similar situation with a new build. 4 - 2" suction and 4- 2" returns with 3 water features. My Hayward VS 2.7 pump has 3" fittings, so i am considering stepping my manifold up to 3" and back to 2" past the Hayward C5030 cartridge filter since salt cell is 2"
@@dusty6988 there is a point of diminishing returns at 2.5" for residential pool systems due to cost and availability of line sized vales, fittings and equipment. When you have a trunk line too large like with a salt cell then put the cell on a bypass loop off the main trunk line
Not enough info. You size the pipe to the pool features you need to run. Common 2" and 2.5" is what you see for modern builds. 1.5" and 2" for older builds
The most common thing we see are customers "upgrading" to larger pumps, sometimes this happens over 2 cycles and pools wind up going from 3/4 or 1 hp up to a 2 hp pump! With 1.5" plumbing I'd never suggest anything higher than 1 hp, the system should be upgraded at that point. One thing I have noticed, inside some sand filters even with a 2" multiport the standpipe is only 1.5"... makes NO sense.
My pool plumbing is all 1.5. Is it worth plumbing my equipment in 2in pipe as much as possible (and reducing down to 1.5 right before it goes back to my returns)? Or are the gains so minimal that it really isn't worth it?
I am about to plumb in a new heater and filter so I am trying to take the opportunity to plus up my plumbing to as close to "best practice" as possible.
This is why I don't understand why your pool is mostly 1.5". It shows in the background of every video you make, and in the back of my mind, I wonder.. pool pro built his pool with 1.5" what the heck..
The way we learned about the impact of diameter on flow in the circulatory system is to use straws: a regular straw, a coffee stirrer, and one of those big reusable straws. It doesn't take long to see how much harder you have to work to suck through the coffee stirrer. I can see how having your pump do that extra work is an issue. That's not even considering the additional turbulence caused by the friction at that flow rate.
Great content! I have a water heater(portable) with 1/2 outlets and I was WRACKING my brain against what home depot has in stock for cpvc (which is not a lot). I mistakingly bought 1 inch pipes because I figured better flow, but could not find ANY bushings at the store to fit. It was frustrating because I thought I knew what I was doing, but just lack of materials in front me made me SPIRAL!
great video's. what do you think of rubber reducer to pvc? the oem hoses are just junk and i want a more permanent fix.
hi. thanks for your video. it really explained things to me. I am wondering (and this is how i got to your video) i am installing a hayward heat pro heat pump for my above ground pool 33x18. above grounds have flexible hoses of 1.5". the pump is 2 inches. is this going to be a big issue? my pump is 1.5 HP.
Thank you Steve for all the videos, they are very helpful and full of information. Question for you.
I’m replacing my 1hp pump for my 18x36 pool with a VS Hayward 2.7hp. All the lines are 1.5” is it ok to replace ALL the filter, heat pump to 2”? Should I just keep all 1.5”?
I love listening to these videos. It makes me wish I could go back in time and give the original owner some advice, but I do like listening to them.
I have a 26k gallon inground pool (23 years old) and my plumbing to and from the pool is 1/12 inch. I have had to replace my motor a few time and the kit with the bushings, seals, gaskets. I am looking at a whole new strainer pump and motor to replace the whole thing instead of just the motor. Most of the 1 hp, 115 volt pumps seem to have a 2 inch inlet and outlet. Will this cause the problem you speak of? Also my current motor says it has 3450 rpm but I have read that these single phase 1hp motors have 3100. If this is the case would that lower rpm help me in reducing velocity? Thanks
I have 1.5" coming out of the ground from pool and into the pool everything else is 2". Would this really make a difference? Shouldn't it all be 2" pipe for flow to flow at same pressure? And how can this be fixed without breaking concrete and re-pipe the whole pool?
What if im running say 200 extra ft of pvc pipe which acts as an added solar system. Because of the extra length that the water must flow, show if then downside from 1.5 to say 1” or 3/4”?
I have an above ground pool I am converting to 2-inch pipe. So my question for you is does the return have to be 2- inch or can it be 1.5?
Suction is more important than the pressure side when it comes to flow efficiency. Both matter, but the suction side matters more. In addition, the pump needs back pressure or it will cavitate so a larger suction line than the pressure side is okay, but not the opposite. Never a small suction line and large pressure side line. So yes, you can do the suction only and thats ok. If you did pressure side also that is probably even better. Hard to say without information about this specific pool and equipment installation. Every pool is unique!
I have a hayward CL200. How can I stay at 2" PVC?
Hi Steve. First let me start by saying thanks for the great content. Being a new pool owner I have learned tons from your videos. I do have a quick question. I have a single speed 1.5 HP Pentair pump (220Volts) and want to upgrade to a variable speed. The entire plumbing system for the pool is 2". At this time Pentair pumps are hard to come by. I believe I can get a Pentair Intelliflow XF pump. It's much more pump than I need but I can limit the Max flow. My question is the intake and discharge ports for this pump is 2 1/2" Do you think it would be ok to use a 2 1/2" to 2" bushing at the ports of this pump?
No I do not like that setup. That pump really needs more than a 2" supply line. Even more of a concern if you also have a sand filter as they can not handle that much flow. I really think the XF is too much pump. The superflo 342001 or the Superflo VST 342002 would be comparable to what you have now.
For a new installation, given that the equipment is mostly 2" connectors, what's the ideal size of the pipes going to/from the pool? Should I have everything as 2", or should I go up a size to 2.5"?
So I have 2" (1)return and (1)suction and had a 1hp motor with 2" connections. I found a replacement with same size motor but comes with 1.5" fittings. Can this damage the pump?
My new above ground pool came with a pump and filter that both have 1.5 fittings. But the heater is 2”. Can I increase to 2” right from the equipment so it will match the heater?
Hi did you find an answer? I have the same issue.
Okay, so I was worried about this:
We want to install our own solar heater that hooks in to our current system. But we were going to use sprinkler hose and coil it which would provide a lot of resistance which would result in higher pressure in my filter if I placed it after, or lower pressure if I placed it before.
But what I was thinking to get around this is to have a three way valve so that water could flow in its normal path and allow some of it to be redirected to the solar coil.
The only trouble is that the branch to the hose would go straight up and have to fight gravity. So I don't think enough water would go up to the solar coils to be heated.
Thus I thought maybe if I transitioned to 1.25 inch pipe from 1.5" on my normal flow it would increase resistance enough for more water to flow up towards my solar coil.
So my questions are:
A. In theory would this work without putting too much pressure on the filter?
B. Would I even need to change my pipe size to have the water go up to my solar coils?
C. If it Would work would it be better to place the three way valve before or after my filter?
D. Is there a better way that doesn't include making a new system with a sump pump? (we already have so much clutter in the pool with robots and such)
What about increasing the motor HP from (1 HP to 2 HP) to bring the pool float meter to specifications because it was too low? Thanks!
If suction and return are 1.5" and you want to change to 2" for everything on the pad, should you change to 2" before the pump inlet or at the pump outlet or down the line from the pump?
You would need multiple 1.5" suction lines to do this, and you would change to 2" at the suction side manifold in front of the pump to avoid a choke point for the multiple converging 1.5" pipes
@@Swimmingpoolsteve First, Thank You so much for answering my question! Which is better to use to converge the 2" lines together before the pump - a 3-port Diverter valve, a 90 degree elbow & T-joint or something like a Waterway manifold wye used to combine instead of splitting?
If I have 3 suction lines (2 skimmers and a main drain) and 3 return lines with 1.5" plumbing, would it be smart to upsize to 2" on the pad between suction and return valves?
It would. You would benefit to increase the pipe size at the suction manifold w
So your three suction lines do not connect via another 1.5" line. You want them to connect with a 2" line to get the most flow efficiency. The most twists and turns in your system happen on the equipment pad so slowing water velocity in this section is beneficial.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thanks, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you for this reply. I am in a similar situation with a new build. 4 - 2" suction and 4- 2" returns with 3 water features. My Hayward VS 2.7 pump has 3" fittings, so i am considering stepping my manifold up to 3" and back to 2" past the Hayward C5030 cartridge filter since salt cell is 2"
@@dusty6988 there is a point of diminishing returns at 2.5" for residential pool systems due to cost and availability of line sized vales, fittings and equipment. When you have a trunk line too large like with a salt cell then put the cell on a bypass loop off the main trunk line
@@Swimmingpoolsteve I you have access to dig up about 5 foot of 1.5" of line prior to the Equipment Pad, would you replace this pipe with 2" as well?
Hi I’m a new subscriber and would like to know over all what is the pipe size u recomend for an inground concrete pool?
Not enough info. You size the pipe to the pool features you need to run. Common 2" and 2.5" is what you see for modern builds. 1.5" and 2" for older builds
I know right. I guess I should have told him not to put the microphone is his mouth
The most common thing we see are customers "upgrading" to larger pumps, sometimes this happens over 2 cycles and pools wind up going from 3/4 or 1 hp up to a 2 hp pump! With 1.5" plumbing I'd never suggest anything higher than 1 hp, the system should be upgraded at that point. One thing I have noticed, inside some sand filters even with a 2" multiport the standpipe is only 1.5"... makes NO sense.
Great info
My pool plumbing is all 1.5. Is it worth plumbing my equipment in 2in pipe as much as possible (and reducing down to 1.5 right before it goes back to my returns)? Or are the gains so minimal that it really isn't worth it?
I am about to plumb in a new heater and filter so I am trying to take the opportunity to plus up my plumbing to as close to "best practice" as possible.
This is why I don't understand why your pool is mostly 1.5". It shows in the background of every video you make, and in the back of my mind, I wonder.. pool pro built his pool with 1.5" what the heck..