Garage Conversion Stud Walls
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Walls at last. It is taking shape and looking less and less like a garage each day.
TOOLS WE USED Hitachi Nailer - amzn.to/2TaAVTX
Bosch Impact - amzn.to/2RQxRuG
Bosch Combi - amzn.to/2QLS8BB
Swanson Metric Speed Square - amzn.to/2TlLJyG
Framers Square - amzn.to/2Q06Jfo
Framing Chisel - amzn.to/2Basl0p
Bosch Circ Saw - amzn.to/2QMXOuY
Stanley Tapes - amzn.to/2OJX3AZ
Chalk Line - amzn.to/2QIOeJu
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There's so much more to just doing the labor - there's heart, and family, and precious memories! I love watching your videos and wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Greetings from Virginia!
Okay, brace for appreciation thread:
Those 55.000 subscribers are not even close to the amount you "should" have because of all the useful stuff you teach us. I'm just 25 I don't even need to know half of this extravaganza of skill and solutions to problems you might encounter when you own a home. Need a new boiler? No problem. Buying a shed for your car maintenance? Nope just build a garage because why not. And here I am, enjoying myself with some coffee or some chips/cookies and learning stuff about basically anything related to tools. Just wanted to say something appreciative and keep doing what you're doing, it's really helpful and enjoyable at the same time! Might come in handy some day for some of us. ;)
Came for the van, stayed for the immensely warm person that's actually working his face off instead of me, sitting in front of the computer. >:)
this is so satisfying to watch. you guys are finally getting a proper utility and an extra room as well. so nice
I've got Milwaukee impact bits, and done lots with them, built the whole deck, fences, cupboards, you name it. Only broken one ph1 I think it was the ph2 is still going strong.
This channel has not been recommended to me even though I’m apparently a follower. 😞
Notifications are ON! Great stuff sir 👏
There minutes into the video and finally I can say someone is doing it right. Bang up job 🤙
16:07 If you are looking for your drill... it's behind the stud wall...
Fortunately spotted in time! 👍
The Restoration Couple glad you caught it always a bummer
I’ve been using a Robertson #2 4” impact bit made by DeWalt. It has been in my impact driver for over 5 years and driven thousands of screws. Highly recommend you try it out.
Your videos are very handy, and the tools list was very helpful too, thanks. Please could you post a materials list for the walls and floor?
Lots of forward progress in this one. Well done!
Brilliant to watch this coming together. Very inspiring.
P. S. Several people that I watch on RUclips comment on "continuity issues" in their videos. I have to say that personally I never notice. I'm watching DIY so have a low requeried standard of immersion.
Slowly getting there Tim. Nice to see it progressing...soon have your tools back in the dry.
Tim! You legend. Thanks for teaching us
Makita gold impact bits are awesome. I had the same one for at least a year untill it chipped. Highly recommended
We have the same hairstyle mate!
Well done video !
it's going to turn out awesome! I just cleared out my own shed, reminds me of yours now much space you have when you don't have any stuff in it ;) it feels so liberating to know what you have and don't have, but it fills up quickly :)
The range of your working playlist is hilarious haha
Season's Greetings to you and your family from California!
genuine timco bits dont shatter
one word mate, wera Impact. They are cracking bits and have never let me down.
Thats two.
Hi there!
If you want reliable and high quality bits for your impact driver, you should consider buying Hazet. They are very expensive, I know, but since I got them, I will never buy anything else.
Worst bits are always from the power tool companies like Bosch, Metabo and so on, because they buy them cheaply in an that's it. I get them to shear off quite easily.
Regards,
Etna.
Looking good, nice to take time of my own build to watch someone else doing work. :) have a great Christmas 🎄
Hello Tim, I use WERA impact bits, always had good results with them
Thanks Tim - that was like an early Christmas present on what is a very rainy day here!
I prefer nails in framework anyways because they have a higher sheer strength than screws. Nothing wrong with using a nail gun for framing!
I was going to make the same suggestion. Nail gun over screws for framing every time.
I think if I had a nice flat slab to lay it out on the nailing would be fine. That said screws are slightly easier for pulling in twisted timbers. Maybe I just need more practice with the gun. 👍
I was gonna say the same. The framers sitting in the background yet you are screwing your studs on? Anyway, brilliant work mate. True craftsman! Looking forward to watching the rest of your content.
I have enjoyed your video. You explain it very well. I have learnt a lot thank you.
Hello with all the work you may still have maybe it might be worth investing in a laser distance measuring tool one for a Christmas present of your wife maybe please keep the excellent videos coming and hope for many many more HAPPY CHRISTMAS to The Restoration Family
It went out on the Christmas wish list so fingers crossed!
Just found your channel and it's brill. Keep up the good work.
Great video, if you could put up details of material used I.r timber Damp prodding and screws etc that would make the video even better. Just a suggestion.
16:10 Is your drill still behind that wall? 🤣
He was walking around for a couple hours repeatedly saying “Where in the hell did I put my drill”
Nice one your machine getting that one done all on your own well done 🙋🙋🙋
The Wera diamond impact bits are pretty indestructible in my experience.
"There's no reason not to" [use treated timber]. Correct. However, there's no reason *to* either.
As you've constructed, pressure treated timber would be an unnecessary expense. Not mention that it's much heavier, and more difficult to work with (cutting, nailing, etc.). Good choice there.
I did use a treated timber on the bottom of a couple which could be a good middle ground compromise. Having used treated roof joists you do notice the weight!
@@TheRestorationCouple Your doing it right, Tim.
great job. and thank you for introducing me to Beauty in the mundane, can't stop playing it.
WRT impact bits, 20 odd years ago Snap-on had a good set of impact bits for use with the old hand hammer driven impact drivers. We used these with quite a high frequency to remove rusted in screws. Not sure if they still do the same range. I think the bits were black with chromed 3/8" socket drive.
Really like the vid. Im converting garage exacrly the same. I have to create a new 2 course perimeter using common brick.due to slope. and low dpc level on solid wall. When i bridge a new dpc from new perimeter. Is it better to stick down wirh contact adhesive and then lay bottom plate timber to stud.
Quick question for anyone who knows. Breather membrane - Is it stapled to the studwork? Do you need to tape it to seal it? Is it lapped? Thanks. Trying to work out how punctures for fixings are dealt with.
The impact bits you are looking for are makita gold i bought a pack of ten double ended bits about a month ago and haven’t even broken one.
I have had good experiences with DeWalt bits.
Great video. What’s the purpose of the breather membrane between the stud and the wall?
Love watching this progress 👍
Have you left a gap between the block work and timber? I’m going to insulate my concrete fab garage and I’m not sure if I need an air gap or not I’m using the same membrane on the back and 85mm kingspan foil taped
Impact bits, I use WERA with no issues. Impakter range
Very informative, but I'd get more if the sizes of the CLS timber used in the studwork was mentioned. Any chance a material's list could be posted ? Another thing, where is the vid showing building the floor ? Cant find it, that would help as I intend a project almost identical to this one!.
It's 2x4 CLS... But depending on your project a common size is 2x3
do you need to worry about haveing a cavity behind the stud work? Great vids btw
Try the gold makita bits. They aren’t magnetized but they do last
Hi there.
Gotta say, the video's are a great help! Would you put a DPC as well as DPM on the INSIDE of the walls as well as within the wall build??
Would building the floor in two sections be too much of a hassle? That might give you the opportunity to get the pavillion emptied and still allow you to finish a little later.
Did you box around the pillars too?
It's always difficult trying to juggle family life and a project so understand what you mean WRT the help request. I'd love to come and help you one day, I'm just down in Dorset so only a couple of hours to Bath area. Trouble is having a family too I'd need a couple of weeks notice of the date you are planning, especially if a week day as would need to book time off work. Would be great to be able to help on the workshop build though.
Love your videos, they’ve helped me through lots of little projects. I’ve watched your garage conversion series a lot as I’ve been toying with the idea myself but never really pressed ahead with it. However I’m now looking to convert 2/3rds of my detached single skin garage to use as a garden room / gym. I’ve always been set on timber but I’ve since seen a few videos on metal stud work and for ease of use it seems a viable option. You said that you’ve used metal in a previous conversion, can I ask how you found using the metal stud work? And also how did you get around insulation and vapour barriers? I’m thinking you could put rigid insulation in between the metal studs but I’m wondering how to would go about fixing a breather membrane to the studs. Any help and experience you can share would be a massive help. Keep up the good work and content 😀
Hello! What’s the membrane you put on the back of the studs to stop wood to wall contact?
Thanks!
That’s going to be a great work space!
Good job, great vid. I’m just starting, lol
Is the stud wall flush to the blockwork or is there an air gap?
Love the video! So helpful
Makita gold bits are good . I dropped a right clanger and bought some makita XP’s bits from USA . There nearly all Philips bits . They must not use pozi over there
Also is cromar 3 classic ok to use as breather membrane to stud
Hi Tim. Thanks for all the useful info. One thing has me scratching my head though. What's the breather membrane for between the stud wall and the external wall. In latter video's you created a foil vapour barrier. So a puzzle for me. Cheers.
Thanks for posting all your videos. A question.... you didn’t leave an air gap between the brick and your new stud wall. I am looking to do a similar conversion but the advice is the air gap is crucial. I would rather not leave one as I am limit on space. Can I get away with no gap?
Great videos , thank you. You used hangers on the suspended floor but I couldn't see how the other ends were fastened. They seemed to be just resting on the base frame of the stud that you constructed. Cheers
Yes the were bearing on the short stud wall and fixed down.
I’ve just done this in our rendered breezeblock shed in the garden but used plastic sheeting instead of roof felt. Is this going to cause me problems?
No screws anywhere mate only nails
SOOOO Many questions. 1. What length screw did you use for the stud-work? 2. Did you pre drill holes or just go straight in with the impact driver?
70 or 80 mm straight in. 👍
Hi Tim, thanks for all the useful info! I’m hoping to start converting my standalone single skin brick built garage soon so this channel is very helpful. Why did you put a mortar bed under some stud walls and not others, and is it necessary to fix the bottom plate to it after its dried? Is it ok to screw through the DPC? I see some other comments asking how the air flow is created between the stud and the brickwork...any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Happy belated birthday wishes to Jo, as well!
John Coloe shut up you melt
Hi Tim I’m in the process of converting my garage right now after watching all your videos. One thing I don’t recall seeing is how to handle windows and door ways. Are you ok to build a timber frame round them and mount plaster board directly to the frame inside the recess? I’ve not left any room for insulation and am hoping I don’t have to re do them! Thanks!
Hi. I appreciate all your videos. Now I am about to make a study room from the end of a single brick wall garage, which has a doorway knocked through from the house. I have only 3x3m space. Is it OK to dot and dab insulated plaster boards onto the single brick garage walls?
I've not had any real issues with the Milwaukee impact bits. Do they fit your screw heads snug?
Why use timber frame when metal stud would be way cheaper, last longer and a lot easier to build?
Try Wiha bits ... best I've used.
Hello, What workpants are you wearing in the beginning of the video?
Why windbariour behind studs innside already a room. Is for holding the insulation away from the concrete wall ?
Can you say a few words about where the horizontal members of your stud wall should be placed (i.e. how did you determine how large the insulation panels should be, vertically?)
Hi you said you use metal studs on a other job , I was think of use metal but how did you attach the breathable membrane and is there any ones you recommend
Great work, can I ask, it may have already been answered or mentioned, but what size stud did you use?
In my experience of working in the tool trade, generally its not the bit that's at fault. Low quality screws are the problem as they do not flex causing more strain on the bit.
Wera do bits designed with flex in them, they normally have a green band in the middle to identify this. You also should make sure your bits are designed for impact drivers not all are.
Also dewalt and the other power tool brands don't make their own bits they just brand cheap stuff.
If you want quality buy from a brand like wera that makes all their own bits. Equally nothing last for ever.
in canada ........foam board glued to exterior wall rhen 2x4 studing would be a better way to go
Very useful thanks just getting ready to do the same in my garage. What fixing did you use to fix into the block work?
Really enjoying this series. what size of timber and screws did you use ?
Whats the distance you are marking out at 2:20 ? in cm please
What’s the best place for buying all the wood for this in bulk? B&Q or a timber merchant?
Builders merchants however it can often be cheaper for CLS in wickes or b&q so woerth comparing.
selco is doing good deal at the minute@@TheRestorationCouple
Planning my garage conversion now. Is it best to keep my studs a few mil off the walls for damp reasons. So screw them to ceiling joyce and garsge floor?
Hello, I saw that you insulated the floor last and you overlap the DPM on the new walls. Most of the builders start first with the floor and overlap the DPM on the bricks wall and then insulated the walls. Is there difference? I'm asking because I already insulated my walls and now building control asked me to overlap the DPM 15 sm but didn't explain me on which wall. The existing one or over the insulation :(
Hi, do you have an update on this now you have lived with it for some time? It does make a lovely studio now! I am looking to do the same in a similar (but much smaller) space and wonder if you would do it any differently if you had to do it over again?
Thanks for your help and all your great content. Keep it up
It’s a great space and probably the most thermally thing efficient in the whole house. Insulating externally is always worth looking at if possible but if not this route works great.
What size iss the wood and I was going to put the paper the other way around as seeen in another vidio :( what way is the right way
Hi , great video! I'm doing something similar with my garage but I'm going to use insulated plaster board on the walls. One question I wasn't sure about was what to do around the brick piers? How did you deal with yours? Did you put a vapour barrier between them and the plaster board?
This is a long shot but building regs asked me to put up this type of wall within my small 2.4m x 1m porch (to convert it to internal) My only question however is given they asked for OSB and vapour control check, how the frick am I going to put them onto the external side of the wall when I can barely move an inch in the room xD there's no way to lay it down or even tilt it to the point I can move round the other side!
Osb the inside? I’m guessing it’s just for strength so can be either side. Build stud wall stick by stick, osb then VCL. Lots of ways to do it. I’d ask why the OSB though as I imagine it’s not really needed.
Loving the garage the conversion, I’m hoping to do something similar in the future. It’s a concrete panel concrete and corrugated concrete (asbestos) roof. I’m thinking of starting with building an internal “gate “ behind the garage door for another layer of protection as it’s not a great garage door and plan to keep a motorbike in it. Any tips or tricks on how you would approach it? I’m thinking stud wall with ply/osb in a gate like fashion and potentially insulation and board the other side later down the line. Would love to hear your thoughts?
I watch and rewatch your videos constantly in preparation for an existing extension refit with stud walls and insulation. Thanks for taking the time to create, edit and post all these.
When you fitted the stud frames, you did you butt them against the external wall completely or leave a slight gap between the stud, breather membrane and the blocks?
Cheers.
I prefer to leave a small cavity which prevents any bridging of moisture in the outer block work.
The Restoration Couple thanks for the reply. My thoughts exactly. Really appreciate the reply. Great videos. Learning so much. Cheers.
Great video learnt lots. Thinking of doing this myself. Moving soon and new house needs lots of work. I want to do garage conversation for a utility room and games room and want to make a rough budget for the whole house.How much was total cost for your conversion?
I’m converting my garage. It’s single skin brick walls, would you recommend the damp proof membrane or shall I paint it with anything? Looking to plasterboard and plaster on top.
Hello, my name is Martha and I want to know how you the frame en the celling?
16:12 rip drill, forever lost behind the stud wall
Interesting, you put the vapour barrier on the rear face, facing the cold wall.
I guess it stops the cold moist air getting into the wood.
I understood it needs to be the inside face, with the insulation behind.
I am confused now.
Maybe it doesn't matter?
would like some feedback from anyone who knows..
I am currently planning the same, nit on such a big scale
That is not a vapour barrier, it’s a breathable membrane to keep timber frame dry if moisture got through masonry. Vapour barrier is always inside like you say, warm side of wall. In this case taped foil boards.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you. That makes sense.
cool
Use the Koki Tim on ya studs 90 smooths are good or galv
7:47 what is the roll of plastic used around the stud assembly?
DPC (damp proof course)
Where please did you get the impact stapler from?
Hi, can you kindly provide details of what membranes you used behind the wall batons? Thanks
Just roofing breather membrane.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thank you. I thought that was the case but wanted to make sure. I'm considering converting my garage into a living room and your video was very helpful in building up my courage to start this project. Any tips you can provide for a 1st time novice?
Another fantastic video. I think I have the same Rage Saw as you but your blade looks like it gives a better fine cut. Which blade do you use? I use the one it came with.
Screwfix now do a cheaper version with the same odd sized bore. It’s holding up fine and much cheaper.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you