INSULATING A CONCRETE SLAB - DIY Garage Conversion Floating Floor
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- The final job to get done to make the room warm and usable. BTW The cost calc is wrong at the end! ;-) Having done 4 of these now, it is a good route to go if you need to retrofit solid floor insulation and while a screed may be a more solid option, the floating floor build up wins on price and speed. I'll do a follow up video on why and when we have opted for under floor heating and why we didn't in this room.
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Now that’s dedication, work all day, go to meeting, start again, cut boards by hand and finish day painting in your socks all while shooting a video, seriously impressed 😎👍
When we started out, most of the time I was working in shorts and socks and Jo in her dressing gown but the footage was 'archived'. :-)
The Restoration Couple well you do what you have to do to get moved in and live like normal people.....but then you have the bug and do another 😀👍
Tim, I've said it before (lots): You're a good man, husband and father. The world needs more men like you.
Serving the youth of your church, then returning home to work as quietly as possible in order to not disturb the girls. All this on top of working your actual job! The youth you serve are so fortunate to have a man such as yourself speaking into their lives. I'm sure Jo and the girls appreciate all you do, as well.
Thanks John, certainly keeps life busy but wouldn’t have it any other way. 👍
IYC DIY - t-shirt ordered. Can't help but admire the "It's too late at 10pm to use a circular saw ... so you know what? I'm going to get myself a handsaw and keep on going..!!" 👍😊👌
Great work. I lay a lot of floors and only thing you need to be aware of is let those walls dry out properly before any flooring as a lot of moisture comes out fresh plastered walks and your flooring will soak it up. Keep up the great vids and work
Having just been quoted the best part of £2k for a 6x3m floor in the room next to our garage (very similar to this), this is exactly what I was looking for so thank you, that’s my weekend agenda sorted! Good work, cheers!
Hi, how did you get on with the floor? And would recommend it?
Very good choice going with the 22mm chipboard Tim. I lay lots of floating floors, i used to lay 18mm and thought it was good until I tried 22mm. The extra weight of the 22mm gives a much more solid feel to the finished floor.
wouldnt you need to raise the flooring in the garage though? for instance with joists
By the way I watched your video from a few years back on insulating under the floor boards. Did the same in my living room last year and it has made a massive difference. Thanks Tim for replying to the emails
Glad it helped. It's one of the biggest improvements we made, although you only loose 10% of heat down, the thermal comfort of a warm floor makes a huge difference.
You will never regret buying a track saw Tim. Nice job, well done.
Tim, great effort. Love your videos, very informative, entertaining and well edited. How you manage to do the work, film it, edit and upload it with a family in tow I don't know so fair play to you and your wife for managing it. If I get more time in the future maybe I can pop over the water, give you hand and pinch some of your subscribers! Keep up the good work.
It's all fun and games and keeps us busy. Would be good to have you over for a collaboration some time. Just lining up this year's many projects and how we fit having a baby amongst it all! ;-)
You deserve a medal mate!
I get told off for working in my slippers let alone my socks!
this channel is gold ,
Tim, I just came across your channel as I was looking for tips on stud walls for my workshop. Seriously impressed - Great videos, and such dedication and staying power (most of us never start, give up or go into bodge mode) - I think I'll be spending the next week or so watching all your videos!
Hey man I'm in the same boat at the minute and watching you do all that work on your own WOW has helped me a hell of a lot thank you so much. Robbie from Huyton UK
that video was so helpful mate thank you so much for taking the time to make it. just what I needed
I will be doing this method on my garage here in Spain. hope it goes as well as yours. thanks buddy
I bought a Mafell track saw a few years ago, I picked up a naked Bosch saw similar to yours for £45 from screwfix this week. I’d forgotten how spoilt I am with a track saw 🤣🤣 treat yourself you’ll not regret it.
I recently bought a Scheppach one + 2 700mm guide rails from Aldi for £69.99! Works a treat and all reviews are favourable.
Colin Parker I was put off these by the short rails. They let down a good value tool by not supplying rails that you can cut a full sheet with. By the time you’ve bought extra rails and put a decent blade on if your halfway to the price of a trade quality machine.
Just done a similar job in a loft, used straps to pull the boards tight, barely need the hammer and block then they just pop into place under compression. Thank you!
Hi, just found your videos. Admire your stamina, attention to detail, working all hours to get the job finished to a very high standard. Well done. You make me tired watching you!!
“ hey kids (of the youth group) tonight’s activity is floor painting”. Simples!😀
That would of course involved risk assessments! 🙄 Had crossed my mind though! But managing 12 teenagers with paint brushes is more work than going at it alone.
Great tip on the high traffic area being secure
Top Class, I loved that, great help
Little late now but a good tip for the future - use a sturdy 6 inch putty knife as a backer for the pry bar when prying against unknown backing like those walls. Then no worries and sure force against the floor cover.
I use wood shims so as not to mangle my knives. Works a treat.
Or just get a pull bar
Hi Talking about track saws, LIDLE sells one under the trade name of "Parkside" it is about half the price of the bosh one and I have been very happy with mine
Hi, when you were cutting the 22mm chipboards, did you leave any expansion gap between the boards and wall ? Or did you cut it as a tight fit ? Thank you :)
Great vid, doing my bungalow up and stealing most of your ideas, so thanks and also cheers for the Saturday night math quiz at the end ha ha
Hope you and family are great
Great job. Did something similar to my garage this year but did not clue the chipboard together. When they are down it’s a job to move them and the floor is rock solid.
Great job Tim, excellent energy levels mate !
You put down a damp proof plastic sheet so I would imagine you don't need a vapour sheet. Good to see you gluing the floor together that will stop it creaking later on.
Great effort mate, I just did a 66 sheet floor today!
Ahh but you work at pro speed so that’s a whole different level! 😉 Was tempted to have a screed pumped in but just too much down time while it dried and was something that I couldn’t get done alone. It’s a solid enough floor though. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple The floating chipboard is an excellent solution as we have to allow about 3 months for our liquid screeds to dry!! Keep up the great work guys
@@ukconstruction is this an acceptable way of doing this.. I have a damp issue in a bungalow I've just bought..there's a very damp floor in one of the bedrooms..so it looks like it's got to come up.. I know I have to put a mandarin down then insulation on top of that but I was going to concrete it but this seems a much quicker way?
@@JohnUk65 I can confirm that this is a great solution, firstly try to establish the reason for the damp it may be from adjacent ground levels being high, a leaking pipe under the ground, broken drain or gutter problem soaking the ground etc, once you strip it all out it may be sensible if Space allows to use a decent liquid Damp proof membrane over the overbite and up the walls to DPC then lay your plastic membrane 1000 gauge or higher and then your insulation and floor, good luck with it, speak to your buildings insurance also as some of the damage may be covered! Good luck
Oversite! Dam predictive text!
The work ethic is strong in this one
what kind of day job does one need to have to have that much time to literally re-do everything inside and out of the house!! I am working from home and I am just computer-based, so no commute, but unfortunately still long hours, and I have the house that would require such a restoration, but struggle to find the time! Great job - very good work!!
nicr trust funders, inheritance, government job, pensioners, etc
Good job!
I would just be a bit worried that the floor is too tight as you did tuck it right under the plaster, it needs some room to breathe like a laminate floor.
Also, it is not ideal with all that wet plaster around, the room will be full of moisture that could swell the boards.
Tim I have a floating floor here built 2009 and it was DPM, 60mm insulation board, no taping, then chipboard. However they did use a couple of nails on each chipboard to connect them to the insulation. They used 2 30mm boards so perhaps that was the reason for the nails. Anyway judging by mine you have nothing to worry about, job's a good un!
Yeah the kitchen is in its 6th year and all good so no concerns on this one. 👍
Excellent video, Easy to follow instructions, Thankyou !!
If you pin two bits of wood to the floor and use a clamp to close the gap instead of pushing against your fresh wall . Nice video, best of luck with the rest of your work.
Love the videos! This confirms everything I want to do for my Garage conversation. Can I ask, why did you not tie the stud wall to the external brick work, and what did you account for the slope of the floor when installing the timber stud walls? Thanks for these videos!
Great job mate, exactly what I was looking for....thanks for excellent upload !!
So glad i found this video! In the process of doing a grage conversion into an office! I was thinking of putting down some electric underfloor heating. Would it work putting it on insulating boards before putting flooringboards down?
Excellent I’m about to do exactly this next week but with 60mm pir boards due to step down into my garage conversation excellent
Thank you exactly what I needed. I’m a bricklayer doing a extension on a garage and need to do this to the floor when I knock through
Really great video and very helpful thank you. I haven't looked into doing anything like this before. Can you just clarify whether the flooring goes right up against the wall / plaster or whether you are leaving a gap between the wall and plaster and the flooring.
Gap for expansion. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks - How much gap should you allow?
@@peterrender4716 10 mm i believe
Love the video and the socks at the end!
Good vid, I did similar with 4 inch insulation on a nice level concrete floor (commercial to res conversion).
How is your floor now? Any creaking from the PIR or play in the boards?
Another great video, I am going to convert a garage and this was really interesting, Thank You
great work tim looking forward to the next video.
I'd highly recommend the Titan track saw from Screwfix as a budget friendly option, I don't know how I ever managed without it! Recently breezed through kitchen worktop and high gloss trim panels with perfect chip free cuts.
If you want to see it in action watch the "Festool cheap tool" series by Peter Millard (10minuteworkshop) where he compares it to his venerable TS55. His comments persuaded me to buy one and I'm so glad I did.
Izzy Swan also reviewed the Wen tracksaw. Aside from what he concedes to be operator error re: his first attempt at joining track segments, he approves of the tool.
Aldi recently had the “wen” tracksaw. It’s actually a scheppach pl55 rebranded. The scheppach uses difficult to get hold of rails, whereas the Titan uses the same rails as festoon, Makita etc... I have the Aldi and it is good for what I paid, but I ended up getting free rails as they arrived damaged and they couldn’t get a replacement due to discontinuation.
Pete Millard is going to be using the Aldi saw in his upcoming tracksaw workshop series. He’s said he’ll review the saw after.
I bought a Titan tracksaw for myself for Christmas, it is well worth the money, I've already built three Peter Millard style shaker doors and face frames. Peter did a review of the Titan compared to his Festool which helped me decide.
I would go for the Titan if I was buying again, purely because of rail compatibility...
Thanks Tim I'll go for the 25 mm kingspan and the 22mm chipboard flooring. I've got a challenge ahead of removing my granite worktop and units out so I can cover the whole floor.
Did you go for 25mm? If I use 100mm it’s going to reduce the ceiling height to much!
Soooo i'm feeling bad about my "down tools" by 4pm rule!....loving the progress!
did this floor hold up? I have to do something like this but I thought I needed beams below the OBS?
Good cost effective solution, and I admire your dedication working at night, and your consideration with noise. Good work all round, but you might want to check your arithmetic.....
try useing a board along the wall to pry against it spreads the pressure and stops damage
Another great job. I'm enjoying your videos.
What size expansion gap do you leave around the edge please?
Excellent video! 👍🏻
GOOD WORKMANSHIP!
Tried using leveller on mine, nightmare. +/- 4mm all over the place and my PIR board wobbles like heck! That's after grinding for an hour. Mixed it properly, worked it, needed to work it a little more I guess haha. Been advised to use some Sharp sand under the PIR to help support it, seems a simple idea though i'm a little nervous it won't start wobbling after a few months of walking on it and shifting the sand.
Kiln dried sand a better option usually. 👍
In the floor solid? Or is there a bit of give to it? Looking to do this for my garage to music studio conversion.
Also, is the XPS board taped enough as a vapour barrier?
And is it best to frame the walls on the XPS or to the floor?
Are you aware there is a 'pulling bar' ?
It's used for laminate floor too, one end of the bar is bent down, the other bent up, hook it over the end and use a hammer to draw the boards together
I did try using a double ended nail pulling bar but not enough space between the board and wall, but looking at a pulling bar, that would have worked well. Next time....
Floor laying rachet straps for floating floors.
Hi Tim and/or experienced DIY'ers: I'm at stage of (slow!) garage conversion where walls, ceiling done but unsure re making a good insulated, damp proof floor, over the concrete 'slab'. Tom's way sounds/looks good but am unsure as to whether to have an 'air gap' between the concrete floor and the DPM / insulation. HAVE to finish myself (can't afford 'builder) and all done so far is to 'no avail' if I don't make (for me) exhausting last effort to finish. If I can ask Tom or experienced DIY'er for 2 mins of time to answer re my thoughts on how to make good, damp proof, insulated floor:--
1) Using a paint/roll-on sealant on the concrete (one that looks like water and not visible once it is dry - but water/damp cannot penetrate, 2) Lay a dpm like that plastic roll-out DMX stuff (which has those 'dimples' that give an 'air-gap' between concrete & rest of floor above, 3) Lay some 'foam' insulation blocks (not sure of thinkness to use), 4) Lay boards of mdf (or plywood?). ....
I noticed that you / Tom did not screw the mdf boards down and would also prefer not to (as this would 'break' the 'vapour sealed' (with tape around butt-edges' DMX (or similar), dpm layer - but should it really be screwed down?. The floor area or approx 6mtrs x 5mtrs. I can't use proper raised, joists floor method because it would make height of floor much higher than rest of (attached) house. Thank you in anticipation.
Great video! I'd definately be interested in a video on the total cost breakdown for the project once its finished.
Will try and keep a record of it all and do it at the end.
been watching your videos. I thought you have done a fantastic job mate!!!
Your damp proof membrane looked like it was smooth. My understanding is that a membrane installed on top of a concrete slab should have studs to create a small air gap. Smooth membranes are for use under a concrete slab. Is this correct?
Really good video - thanks for sharing 👍
Great job Tim, glad to see it's progressing. You've got a bit of audio desynch towards the last few minutes of video FYI.
I love this guy!!! Well done.
Best improvement to this scheme would be using fermacell .. if battens are done with some precision, a quick use of thinnest fermacell topcoat .. low drying time. Factors: high racking strength when using continuous threaded screws (10mm thickness should do well); good fire resistance; no extra disposal costs (plaster is costly); dense+heavy: good sound proofing; resistant to dents/scrapes; higher cost price .. but if saving plastering + waste disposal ..there is a balance to costs.
This is really excellent. It's informative and educational too. Thank you for putting this vid up.
One question, though (atm) why did you paint the floor if you are going to put down laminate etc?
I noticed you have the same tape measure as I do. Stick one of those ball mount camera hanger/belt thingys on it. You'll love it and wonder why you spent so long fumbling with the original clip. 😁
That's a good shout. It's fine if I'm wearing a tool belt but i like the idea of a small belt attachment.
I'm about to start a garage. I like this flooring system. Can I ask, is there any bounce or movement when walked on?
I am about to embark on a project almost identical to this one and it's great to have this project as a guide!
I have a question about the floor insulation though. I assume you must be using Kingspan Thermafloor TF70 rather than the boards you got from secondsandco, as they don't recommend their boards are used for floating floors. Could you please confirm?
Great job! Thank you for a. Very informative video
Next time, level a timber both side, create a rule with a notch both ends to allow you to rule 10/20mm (or whatever you need to get rid of slope and or bumps) of kiln dried sand then you wouldn’t have needed to mess about with that latex and your floor would’ve been done in half the time ;)
Most of the floor was levelled with kiln dried in the end as even the self levelling was not good enough. There was a high spot in the middle so did like you say but with three timbers and just slid out after. Would just used kiln next time though. 👍
The Restoration Couple perfect isn’t it! I do garage conversions as a living so have done a fair few in my 15 years lol
An old comment so no one will probably see this. Kiln dried sand sounds great, but how do you cope with the un-fixed nature of it? I.e. if it goes down below the DPM, doesn't it all just get disturbed and lose its level when you lay the sheet? Does it instead go on top of the DPM, directly under the insulation boards? I'm confused.
@@ItimDave yes ontop of dpm . You’ve got to be careful when laying your PIR board
I would love to do this but cant get any sleep as there's a bloke next door...hoovering at 1pm and banging flooring down at all hours :-)
Good stuff Tim.
Will this type of floor support kitchen appliances? Our kitchen is built on an old slab of concrete so considering this rather than digging up the old slab. Cheers.
Thank you, a really useful video. One question though, if I may please? How did you butt up the insulation to where the external door will go? Thanks.
Hello there my garage/shed has a badly fitted metal up and over door. It has a side wooden door that swells and wont fasten in winter. Additionally the windows do not open. I have lived at the property for 23 years. We took off a leaking aspestos roof back in 99 approx it is flat felted and graveled the wooden cap is well fitted we have power inside and the flurescent tubes might be the original bulbs lol. Ok so its not insulated and it does not leak. But there is condensation in winter and in summer its an oven.
My main problem is that it is very large. Because it would not fit beside the house which is a semi. It is in the back garden. The cost to remove it and then to find replacement storage for tools and possibly a greenhouse or potting shed. Have always left me wondering why can l make this shorter and add glazing that will open and close allowing flow of air etc and light so i can start seedlings.
Tim, just wondering did you ever have any problems with this method of floor with sagging etc in the time you were still at this house, particularly with heavy workshop stuff on it? This is exactly what I want to do in an outdoor workshop build.
Great work as usual! Can i ask where you got the lorry load of insulation?
Great job Tim. Nice to see pricing as gives me an idea of what to save up for 😀 those rubber grip handles are the devils work, I had a huge blister from a garden fork with a rubber grip and it was the most painful thing ever. Love your videos, how's Jo and the baby doing?
Even if the maths was wrong! :-) Wooden handles all the way for garden tools. Jo well and bump growing, won't be long now!
Would you recommend the same process for a solid concrete floor in a house? Due to subsidence my floor is covered in concrete.
Going to lay my 22mm t&g chipboard flooring tomorrow in my workshop.....judt asking to make sure ..
Do you definitely cut off the excess t&g bits that meet the sides and ends of the floor wall / bricks etc? .... so you're left with a sold board on the edges
Thanks
Hi Mate, Do you know which line/model of Kooltherm insulation board you used? Having a look on thier site they specify the kooltherm series is suited to cavity walls and roof pitches, where as they reccomend the K103 for floor insulation. Many Thanks
So I’m about to start a garage conversion. It’s a single skim red brick garage with a concrete floor. Where would be the best place to start? Do a floating floor like this then the walls as you have done?
Great work, would you recommend this to be done in a kitchen to have parquet flooring on top or would the weight sink into the insulation over time?
Good job! I'm looking at doing something similar. How did you tie the floor DPM into the DPM in the walls?
I'd really like to know this too if you have time Tim
would you say its best to do the floor after you've plastered the walls then?
I was going to frame the walls, first layer of insulation (75mm), first fix in the void and at the same time do the floor. The floor would be butt up against the studs.
Then 2nd layer of insulation (25mm) and finally plasterboards...
My thoughts on this would be allow enough room for the floor to go down and then the 2nd layer of wall insulation + plasterboards would over lap the floor.
Great video and is great for the amateur DIY enthusiast such as me. Can I ask, what tape did you use to join the insulation boards? Also in your view when doing a garage conversion would you recommend starting with the floor or walls first?
Floor first usually. It’s just aluminium ducting tape.
Could you tile over this floor ?
The insulation foil is an excellent vapour barrier. But a layer of polythene costs 2p so might as well go belt & braces.
Best vid yet love it thank you for sharing just doing my concrete floor tomorrow lol great vid
What products is he using? Thinking about doing something similar and it would help a lot.
Should that total be £525?
I found that the small size Lidl pull saws are marvellous for trimming excess foam. With them having virtually no set to the teeth they give a very close finish with no risk of damage to the surrounding surfaces. I'm checking every time I go in to see if they have them back on rotation, the 22/inch is not as sharp now as when new. But it has had a lot of (mis)use.
Good spot. It was a last minute addition to put costs! 😂
Lidl does have a webshop
@@09conrado DOH!!!! Did you have to tell me that! How on earth am I going to keep my account in the black now?
Use an old bread knife with a serrated edge, cheap and sharpenable. Also useful for cutting the foam insulation off a lagged cylinder when the cupboard is too small for a new cylinder to fit due to the thicker foam.
I reckon you're 'really' building a Secret 'Granny-Annex' there ;-)
Excellent! This is exactly what I wanted to do you have made my planning lot easier. Much appreciated for posting you experience 👍
I watch all your videos. Just wondering where you learned everything from? I’m basically learning from videos and forums myself.
Self taught really but just pick things up from observing others and trial and error!
How do i finish the floor at the garage door to avoid bridging from outside to inside?
whats to stop moisture creepy up around the skirting boards?
Re : tracksaw. Our local Aldi store still has two in stock for about £70 each. I think the track is 1400mm long.
Great video!!! Thanks mate
I realise this is a couple of years ago but what it the fold out bench you show in this video? Thanks in advance.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. Could use an L bracket down the edges to tap them away from the wall with a hammer. I'm sure we used to use something like that when I was sn apprentice.. although more like a Z than an L... tbh