Hi Robin , Straightening a stud, another way I do it the way I was shown was to cut through about half way as you say but square to the stud on the opposite side that you want to push in and when you apply pressure to the stud the cut opens and you then glue and bang in a wedge to stop the cut re-closing works very time. Great work thanks again.
I use a conventional tape and a chop saw for studwork but usually add 3mm to the length, because its not always possible to get the tape dead straight on your own despite the centres I mark top and bottom. If its a bit to tight to the header then I simply trim it a fraction with the chop blade and its possible to remove about a millimetre a time. I also stagger the noggins and then you can nail The noggin through the studs to the ends. I have also always made it a policy now of over 40 years of studding over 8ft or 2.4 m I split the wall in three and put in two noggins. Generally I chose the timber wisely for the straightest lengths for the studs and check for where any bend is and try to cut that out as the noggin. Bent pieces get cut as noggins or rejected full stop and sent back. I also never use cls for stud walls but use tanalised, since they generally attach to block skin and concrete floors, neither which are generally dry at that stage in the build
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
I'm from the USA and I just retired after 30 years in carpentry. And I had one of those telescopic levels back in 95. They are worth their weight in gold.
Like to see what you boys are upto, I have been in this job for 35yrs & one thing that I have learned is that the saying "we have always done it this way" is not very expansive for the mind! bet that level cost a fortune! we get a straight length of timber for the upright, fix a batten on either end & tape a level to it, the batten eliminates the bow on any timber giving you a problem. we also have a spinning self levelling laser you lay on the floor, gives you all the primiters in one go then just fill in with uprights. keep them coming, I look forward to the next instalment from the gruesome twosome!
When you use your roofing square as a guide for the saw, turn it the other way so it gives you a bit more for the grab on the saw to keep it running true on the cut.
This was great to watch. I was taught to straighten studs like that, i also use a laser measurer, they work well for wall plates on your own, in the wind saves fighting a tape. Brilliant
Loving your SB Vlogs. Unti recently I'd never made anything of much use. I'm now well into a DIY Garden room build using studwork construction and cladded /insulated walls. I'm really chuffed with the job so far. Just a rubber roof, double glazing and interior to go
I'm a shuttering chippy by trade these days and even i have to say that trick with the skill saw and speed square is genius. Always learn something new on your carpentry videos 👍
Hi rob I am doing a self build and when I get to the roof I have 4 valleys to do . The thing is I don't want a lead valley I would want soakers under each slate have you got videos on the woodwork side of it on the roof, and on the slate side of it. Thanks for all the videos as a massive help to somebody building it all on my own cheers
I used to stick build my walls like that, works great if ceiling and floors are pissed and out of parallel. Nowadays I lay top and bottom plates on top of each other on the floor, mark out all the studs and openings, measure the stud length off the plates and build the walls in frames.
Depends where it's being built . Sometimes due to crappy weather it's eaiser to build from the inside when all flooring and roof has been done . That way you can plod along with work even if it's chucking it down outside
Tool fairs are great to get cheap deals on the stuff that a tool shop or builders merchant would normally have as well as the rarer tools, they usually don't bother bringing junk either as all the customers are professionals. If you're a tradesman and haven't been to one you definitely need to
It's so weird this channel, how did it know I was doing stud work next week, hehe! Nice one Robin, I've got a Leica Disto D8, had it for 10 years and worth it's weight in gold. Never thought of using it like that though...wow do I feel dumb right now. Keep up the cracking work fellas.
As a complete novice, where do you start when setting out for plaster board or OSB? Do you start from the center or from one end and work to the other ends?
I find it easier to set all the sole and head plates out as pairs, lay them on the floor in position and get one upright length for the whole floor and cut every upright the same length just smaller than the tightest point. Knock the frames up like a shed side and stand them all up nailed together before starting any plumbing up by working your way round with a level.
Using a laser is great, but if I don't have one I don't try and accurately measure it with a tape, for exactly the reasons you say, Robin. What I do instead is measure roughly with the tape, and cut the vertical 10mm over. Then place one edge of the roughly cut vertical on the footer and rest the top against the side of the header. Look down the bottom of the header with *one* eye and mark off on the gap side. Square off the mark, cut up to the line, and it's (usually) perfect. Because the vertical is at a slight angle when you mark it, it will of course be a fraction longer than the actual height. It's tempting to think this causes a nice interference fit, but in reality the difference is too small to matter. Let's pick some conservative figures and say you rest the bottom of the rough vertical 10mm in on the footer, the ceiling height is 2.2m and the header/footer are 47mm high. Then the gap between the header/footer is 2200 - 47 - 47 = 2106mm, and the length marked off is √(10² +2106²) = 2106.02mm - only 0.02mm longer than the real gap. Therefore I always try to err on the side of caution here, making sure I really cut on the outside of the line. Obviously cutting too short is a nuisance, but if it's too long you can always shave a bit off.
What laser measure is that your using? I'm in the market to get one but do t want to waste good money on a less accurate one, as you know a couple millimeters can through everything right out
Great watching your vids Rob . Measuring studs has always been a contentious issue . What i do is set my saw stop on my dewalt stand , cut studs oversize each time , 40mm usually is ok . Then sit stud in edge of plate and mark of stud at top . Having done stud work over the last 45yrs mostly on price work , this is the most effective way for speed that i have found . Ive tried pinch rods etc , but as ive learned the old adage in carpentry the longest way round is the shortest. Also no one trying to make money uses a level to plumb up anymore on big jobs . I used to use dewalts laser plumb bob , but weapon of choice amongst most now is a 360' 12 or 16 line laser . Sorry to try and tell you how to suck eggs Rob , ive learned a lot from watching your uploads bud .😀👍👍👍👍
i'm gonna take a look at one of those levels, if i can find a stockist. I don't quite understand though what Robin means how the lugs on the level help over the sole plate. Maybe someone could kindly explain?
DP JOINERY if you were plumbing up a frame or panel that has anything on the face of it ,like a temporary brace that the level would foul on . the lugs would allow the level to still touch top n bottom whilst clearing the obstruction
I've got the 2130 - 3760mm level (106T) and use it a lot with the pegs on to check out of plumb external walls on old buildings. I also use a bosch inclinometer held onto it & set to read mm/m to find how far out of plumb. If using the pegs you can level over cills etc. Also really handy for roofs, you can check for straightness of rafters with the battens fitted to see if the purlins are true. The only thing I would say is it's really quite heavy, excellent level though. Also.if you measure the pitch of anything (roof,stairs,drainage) the 600mm bosch inclinometer with laser is a brilliant and really fast tool to use - definitely recommend that.
Love the channel 👍. ..always fun watching you guys build across the pond. Extension levels are great, much faster then using a laser for framing ,plumbing walls. Stabila is a must have.
do you have TimberStrand LSL in the UK It is amazing for straightness, no fafing about after you have framed the wall. Love your content you are an amazing carpenter.
How come people use a square to cut the boards level but never use the square to cut the other end nice and level? Some of these 2X4’s and 2X6’s are cut a little wonky on the ends from the lumber yard...
If i have to cut a stud to straighten the wall i then add a sister piece (normally a piece of ply) to the side of the stud where i have cut to help maintain the strength of the stud And for all those who are saying that a steel stud wall is a better option, yes that is the case for achieving a perfectly straight wall but i know from experience that when you lean against a light weight steel stud wall there is far more movement than a 4” x 2” timber stud wall
Hi gents been watching your videos Thank you for sharing your knowledge Would you mind helping me out with this question pls Stud walls are 400 mm centres And the timber I am using is 4x2 which I’m told is 47 mm thick Therefore if I have all my noggins cut at 353mm at the timber yard to save time And then fit the noggins as I go along will this work out Thank you 😊
Robin, do you ever use "tru-stud" timber ? We use it for all our studwork and boxing out. Its kiln dried, engineered (finger jointed) C24 and about as straight as you could wish for. I've got a big hang up about wet timber and shrinkage. Not a problem on roofs but for joisting and studwork its a potential nightmare.
Nick Haley We have FJP here and I don't rate the stuff, in external applications it doesn't last even if treated. If it needs painting you see all the joins in it. Think it is the industry's way of piecing together all the shite to make another length from. Think it is good for the environment and landfill, but that's about it. Maybe you get a better grade over there. Cheers Jerry
When cutting a stud to straighten it, a plywood plate should be screwed or nailed over the cut to maintain the walls strength. Relying on a single screw to maintain the studs integrity and straightness is not recommended practice.
Really good vids another way of straightening stud wall is to cut straight half way through put a thin wedge in glued either side depending on how also works well just another way excellent job.
Do you need an air space between a stud wall and a stone outer wall? If no space would it sweat? Would you line the back of the frame with a membrane or not? Kingspan or Earth wool? Anybody, cheers.
Hi Rob , fair play for all your vids , do you do you noggins straight of or up and down ? with a staff etc, I use the the small flex-volt chopsaw for studs with a feed roller , try it , its fast and light
I do my noggins straight to a laser and they go in to suit plasterboard and light switch heights, I also laser them all round and everyone uses them as a datumn line for general setting out, like your machine set up sounds awesome accurate and quick, thanks for your comment
Hi Robin, love watching the videos and always pick up a useful tip or two despite being in construction for decades. One thing I was wondering about was with all of the timber you have in the place and seeing how busy your roof space is and the insulation you're using, do you have any fire breaks in the roof space and more than 1 access hatch in case something nasty happens? The reason I ask is because a residential building that I look after is having to have all of the insulation removed (Kingspan type) because the local fire brigade see it as a hazard. I appreciate your building is single level but just wondered if you'd taken into account the building's fabric in relation to this.
Does anyone know of a good laser to buy, I want an accurate one but something that doesn’t break the bank? Thanks guys. Also love the vid robin, great stuff
Good video Robin. What kind of a stud is CSL? I am in the U.S. and. We have several new types of studs. Even have a insulated stud now. I would love to go to other countries to see how they build their homes and commercial spaces.and vice versa. Maybe get an exchange program going. 😊. The countries I do know a bit about are the U.S., Canada, & Germany. In Germany they try to build 100-200 year old structures. Canada is decent and some places in the U.S. build decent as will. It seems that the Germans and Switzerland have some of the best practices. But I know very little about the U.K. Building practices. Ron
@@jbmaintenanceservices2699 you are spot on with the brand name. They are Snickers Workwear - AllroundWork, Stretch Trousers (6341). Thanks for your help!
I was taught to fix a bowed stud to cut halfway through at the backside of the bow and then tap a wedge in this elongates the back side of the bow. I don't understand how a 45* cut with a screw in will bring it back straight 😖
Ferry Groot Thank you for the explanation. My mechanical and logical way of thinking is that the 45* degree cut would need to be dead on centre of the stud crown to shorten it. I still think I prefer the wedge on the backside of the crown is the way to go. Thanks again brother.
Here's a question, how to you fix a base plate when you know there's a gas pipe running right underneath the concrete, exactly the whole length of the plate! :D Feels like i'm some special type of unlucky!
Roger, got to say. You have a great Chippy there, wish there were more like him..and you for that matter.. Being a painter and decorator always having to come behind bad workmanship 😤😤 painter will sort it...
RR building on RUclips is a US post frame channel very very good and worth a look he show cases this level for his post frame stuff and other great tools
Just caught a video recently, and this one. Seems like there are a few interesting videos every once in a while. The rest of the time it seems to be just Product Endorsements.
It's a shame that you see them as 'just' product endorsements. We don't bring you anything we don't like and have turned away some offers involving awful products. Our library of 300+ videos contains very little sponsored content, probably under 10%. We have produced two batches of sponsored videos lately for HiKOKI and Milwaukee who have great products which we're happy to showcase and it's warmly welcomed considering me, Dylan the editor, and Roger have switched to working full-time on Skill Builder this year.
Never knew site carpenters used circ saws for studs. Would have assumed mitre saw. Can see it would be just as efficient though if every stud is different length.
Try metal stud work far better finish on all your walls and ceilings, I gave up on wood a few years ago after I did a course at British Gypsum at East Leake Nottingham. They have a good training center for all their products from plastering c stud, ceilings. Sound proofing etc. Keep up the good work 👍
Hi Robin , Straightening a stud, another way I do it the way I was shown was to cut through about half way as you say but square to the stud on the opposite side that you want to push in and when you apply pressure to the stud the cut opens and you then glue and bang in a wedge to stop the cut re-closing works very time. Great work thanks again.
I use a conventional tape and a chop saw for studwork but usually add 3mm to the length, because its not always possible to get the tape dead straight on your own despite the centres I mark top and bottom. If its a bit to tight to the header then I simply trim it a fraction with the chop blade and its possible to remove about a millimetre a time. I also stagger the noggins and then you can nail The noggin through the studs to the ends. I have also always made it a policy now of over 40 years of studding over 8ft or 2.4 m I split the wall in three and put in two noggins. Generally I chose the timber wisely for the straightest lengths for the studs and check for where any bend is and try to cut that out as the noggin. Bent pieces get cut as noggins or rejected full stop and sent back. I also never use cls for stud walls but use tanalised, since they generally attach to block skin and concrete floors, neither which are generally dry at that stage in the build
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
3x2 will do but often 4x2 is a similar price.
I'm from the USA and I just retired after 30 years in carpentry. And I had one of those telescopic levels back in 95.
They are worth their weight in gold.
Like to see what you boys are upto, I have been in this job for 35yrs & one thing that I have learned is that the saying "we have always done it this way" is not very expansive for the mind! bet that level cost a fortune! we get a straight length of timber for the upright, fix a batten on either end & tape a level to it, the batten eliminates the bow on any timber giving you a problem. we also have a spinning self levelling laser you lay on the floor, gives you all the primiters in one go then just fill in with uprights. keep them coming, I look forward to the next instalment from the gruesome twosome!
Great stuff, love the relief cut and screw method.
Thanks guys, hope the growing family is all well, all the best Robin
Love the tip with the block for the distance to the blade - a real timesaver!
When you use your roofing square as a guide for the saw, turn it the other way so it gives you a bit more for the grab on the saw to keep it running true on the cut.
Love the chiippy vids, I always pick up a random tip I never thought of. Thanks for the info.
This was great to watch. I was taught to straighten studs like that, i also use a laser measurer, they work well for wall plates on your own, in the wind saves fighting a tape. Brilliant
Loving your SB Vlogs. Unti recently I'd never made anything of much use. I'm now well into a DIY Garden room build using studwork construction and cladded /insulated walls. I'm really chuffed with the job so far. Just a rubber roof, double glazing and interior to go
I'm a shuttering chippy by trade these days and even i have to say that trick with the skill saw and speed square is genius. Always learn something new on your carpentry videos 👍
Not a very experienced one if u haven't seen that before
CORRIGEEN71 bellend
Good thing I have retired, or I would be hunting for one of those extending levels right now. Stabila make excellent tools.
To straighten studs I would usually cut as you describe, knock a timber wedge in and chisel it off
Wow someone who uses a speed-square correctly. Excellent video like always.
That little Stud block, Bleeding Genius. I’ll be cutting one of those Quick sharp 👏🏾👏🏾👌🏾
Hi ,that tip on cutting a 45 degree angle on a bowed timber really works, I just did it out the back today 👍
Hi rob I am doing a self build and when I get to the roof I have 4 valleys to do . The thing is I don't want a lead valley I would want soakers under each slate have you got videos on the woodwork side of it on the roof, and on the slate side of it. Thanks for all the videos as a massive help to somebody building it all on my own cheers
I used to stick build my walls like that, works great if ceiling and floors are pissed and out of parallel. Nowadays I lay top and bottom plates on top of each other on the floor, mark out all the studs and openings, measure the stud length off the plates and build the walls in frames.
You are doing it exactly right Dan. Some people over exaggerate these things.
That sounds great 👍
ROBIN!!!! I was thinking about a laser meter and how to use one on site for studding. Great tip!
first good use of the laser i've seen on a vid
Hi there, thank you for making the video. I'd like some advice please regarding an 8ft wall. What is the stud size?
Looks like a new home, why weren't all the walls prebuilt before the 2nd floor was added?
Depends where it's being built . Sometimes due to crappy weather it's eaiser to build from the inside when all flooring and roof has been done . That way you can plod along with work even if it's chucking it down outside
There is no 2nd floor.
@@baldyslapnut. Ah, must have been the extremely flat roof that fooled me.
Tool fairs are great to get cheap deals on the stuff that a tool shop or builders merchant would normally have as well as the rarer tools, they usually don't bother bringing junk either as all the customers are professionals. If you're a tradesman and haven't been to one you definitely need to
Very helpful!
Please share more tips like those
Will do Shahar
Top stuff Robin great tips thanks
More top-tips, what a clever idea!
It's so weird this channel, how did it know I was doing stud work next week, hehe! Nice one Robin, I've got a Leica Disto D8, had it for 10 years and worth it's weight in gold. Never thought of using it like that though...wow do I feel dumb right now. Keep up the cracking work fellas.
I bought that massive stabila when working in France about 20 years ago believe it or not. It was £300 back then but I had to have it
Very good ideas by measuring
LOVE your vids Robin!
Great to have another great vid from Rob off to buy a disto
Great work !
Is there a reason your didn’t stagger the bracing ? How’s your drill them in so perfect lol
As a complete novice, where do you start when setting out for plaster board or OSB? Do you start from the center or from one end and work to the other ends?
Really great tip there robin! Using the disto and template for cutting studs. Thank you.
Brilliant....so simple but efficient
Nice tip on the stud length mate 👍
Hi there, I'm wanting to put stud wardrobes into my bedroom, what size wood are you using in this video is it 3" 2" ?
First class robin i love watching your videos loads of real good tips
Hi Robin, how should a sole plate be joined? Is a butt joint okay? Thanks for the video.
I find it easier to set all the sole and head plates out as pairs, lay them on the floor in position and get one upright length for the whole floor and cut every upright the same length just smaller than the tightest point. Knock the frames up like a shed side and stand them all up nailed together before starting any plumbing up by working your way round with a level.
Hi Steve
That is the best method for sure. James did it on his last video but it is not always possible.
Great kit Robin🤠👍
Using a laser is great, but if I don't have one I don't try and accurately measure it with a tape, for exactly the reasons you say, Robin. What I do instead is measure roughly with the tape, and cut the vertical 10mm over. Then place one edge of the roughly cut vertical on the footer and rest the top against the side of the header. Look down the bottom of the header with *one* eye and mark off on the gap side. Square off the mark, cut up to the line, and it's (usually) perfect.
Because the vertical is at a slight angle when you mark it, it will of course be a fraction longer than the actual height. It's tempting to think this causes a nice interference fit, but in reality the difference is too small to matter. Let's pick some conservative figures and say you rest the bottom of the rough vertical 10mm in on the footer, the ceiling height is 2.2m and the header/footer are 47mm high. Then the gap between the header/footer is 2200 - 47 - 47 = 2106mm, and the length marked off is √(10² +2106²) = 2106.02mm - only 0.02mm longer than the real gap.
Therefore I always try to err on the side of caution here, making sure I really cut on the outside of the line. Obviously cutting too short is a nuisance, but if it's too long you can always shave a bit off.
What laser measure is that your using? I'm in the market to get one but do t want to waste good money on a less accurate one, as you know a couple millimeters can through everything right out
Hi Tom the one I use is the fairly basic Leica Disto and they are really accurate too, thanks for the comment
I see you do mostly the same type of framing as is done in the USA. The Russians do the same. It would be fun to see them all compared.
Great watching your vids Rob . Measuring studs has always been a contentious issue . What i do is set my saw stop on my dewalt stand , cut studs oversize each time , 40mm usually is ok . Then sit stud in edge of plate and mark of stud at top . Having done stud work over the last 45yrs mostly on price work , this is the most effective way for speed that i have found .
Ive tried pinch rods etc , but as ive learned the old adage in carpentry the longest way round is the shortest.
Also no one trying to make money uses a level to plumb up anymore on big jobs . I used to use dewalts laser plumb bob , but weapon of choice amongst most now is a 360' 12 or 16 line laser . Sorry to try and tell you how to suck eggs Rob , ive learned a lot from watching your uploads bud .😀👍👍👍👍
It is all good information, everyone has a different way of working and it is great to share information.
Hi, the Disto you use, which model is it please ...brill video as usually, like my toys too ...got a Milwaukee compound miter saw, it's spot on 🤟🤟🤟🤟
i'm gonna take a look at one of those levels, if i can find a stockist.
I don't quite understand though what Robin means how the lugs on the level help over the sole plate.
Maybe someone could kindly explain?
DP JOINERY if you were plumbing up a frame or panel that has anything on the face of it ,like a temporary brace that the level would foul on .
the lugs would allow the level to still touch top n bottom whilst clearing the obstruction
@@shuggs8185
Ahhh i get you, thank you for explaing that. Yeah i definitely want one then.
DP JOINERY it seems like the exact thing that I’ve been wanting for years ,would be very useful
I've got the 2130 - 3760mm level (106T) and use it a lot with the pegs on to check out of plumb external walls on old buildings. I also use a bosch inclinometer held onto it & set to read mm/m to find how far out of plumb. If using the pegs you can level over cills etc.
Also really handy for roofs, you can check for straightness of rafters with the battens fitted to see if the purlins are true. The only thing I would say is it's really quite heavy, excellent level though. Also.if you measure the pitch of anything (roof,stairs,drainage) the 600mm bosch inclinometer with laser is a brilliant and really fast tool to use - definitely recommend that.
Love the channel 👍. ..always fun watching you guys build across the pond. Extension levels are great, much faster then using a laser for framing ,plumbing walls. Stabila is a must have.
Thanks Joe, we love our Overseas subscribers!
What laser do people recommend? Is there much difference? Which one does Robin use?
Great videos! When are you doing more videos on the capel build?
Soon, we have some episodes coming up shortly, all the best Robin
do you have TimberStrand LSL in the UK It is amazing for straightness, no fafing about after you have framed the wall. Love your content you are an amazing carpenter.
How come people use a square to cut the boards level but never use the square to cut the other end nice and level? Some of these 2X4’s and 2X6’s are cut a little wonky on the ends from the lumber yard...
If i have to cut a stud to straighten the wall i then add a sister piece (normally a piece of ply) to the side of the stud where i have cut to help maintain the strength of the stud
And for all those who are saying that a steel stud wall is a better option, yes that is the case for achieving a perfectly straight wall but i know from experience that when you lean against a light weight steel stud wall there is far more movement than a 4” x 2” timber stud wall
Azza Good tip on the sister piece and you are right the timber feels more rigid. It is also nice to work with wood.
Fire code sometimes requires metal studs over here (Netherlands). I hate working with them, much prefer wood ;)
A sister would imply same size and length. A more appropriate term is Flitch.
@@tristanpatterson3843 My sister is a flitch
Hi gents been watching your videos
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Would you mind helping me out with this question pls
Stud walls are 400 mm centres
And the timber I am using is 4x2 which I’m told is 47 mm thick
Therefore if I have all my noggins cut at 353mm at the timber yard to save time
And then fit the noggins as I go along will this work out
Thank you 😊
Yes that is a very good way to work. I do that a lot.
@@SkillBuilder thank you sir 😊
Robin, do you ever use "tru-stud" timber ? We use it for all our studwork and boxing out. Its kiln dried, engineered (finger jointed) C24 and about as straight as you could wish for.
I've got a big hang up about wet timber and shrinkage. Not a problem on roofs but for joisting and studwork its a potential nightmare.
Nick Haley We have FJP here and I don't rate the stuff, in external applications it doesn't last even if treated. If it needs painting you see all the joins in it. Think it is the industry's way of piecing together all the shite to make another length from. Think it is good for the environment and landfill, but that's about it. Maybe you get a better grade over there. Cheers Jerry
Great video, any tips on building double height stud walls?
When cutting a stud to straighten it, a plywood plate should be screwed or nailed over the cut to maintain the walls strength. Relying on a single screw to maintain the studs integrity and straightness is not recommended practice.
What make and model is that measuring device please?
Every day's a school day!
Really good vids another way of straightening stud wall is to cut straight half way through put a thin wedge in glued either side depending on how also works well just another way excellent job.
How come the base plate is off the floor by a little bit?
Do you need an air space between a stud wall and a stone outer wall? If no space would it sweat?
Would you line the back of the frame with a membrane or not?
Kingspan or Earth wool?
Anybody, cheers.
Ohhh nice joists, never seen any of those before. What are they called or where can I learn more about them
They are Eco joists I use them wherever I can, they are easy to fit and you have no trouble with your services etc
Hi Rob , fair play for all your vids , do you do you noggins straight of or up and down ? with a staff etc, I use the the small flex-volt chopsaw for studs with a feed roller , try it , its fast and light
I do my noggins straight to a laser and they go in to suit plasterboard and light switch heights, I also laser them all round and everyone uses them as a datumn line for general setting out, like your machine set up sounds awesome accurate and quick, thanks for your comment
Hi Robin, love watching the videos and always pick up a useful tip or two despite being in construction for decades. One thing I was wondering about was with all of the timber you have in the place and seeing how busy your roof space is and the insulation you're using, do you have any fire breaks in the roof space and more than 1 access hatch in case something nasty happens?
The reason I ask is because a residential building that I look after is having to have all of the insulation removed (Kingspan type) because the local fire brigade see it as a hazard. I appreciate your building is single level but just wondered if you'd taken into account the building's fabric in relation to this.
Does anyone know of a good laser to buy, I want an accurate one but something that doesn’t break the bank? Thanks guys. Also love the vid robin, great stuff
Like the technique, I keep leaving me digital tools out in the rain tho, bevel, measurer and callipers all knackered
Great tip on the laser, just bought one and studwork up 👍👍👍👍
Great tips! Thank you :)
Can you use 3x2 cls for a stud wall?
Yes it is done quite a lot but you have to accept that it isn't as stiff. If the ceilings are low and the walls are not too long it is fine.
@@SkillBuilder its for a 4mx 3.6m man cave 2m high ceiling ? It will have 12mm osb on one sidevand plasterboard on the other thanks for the reply
Good video Robin. What kind of a stud is CSL? I am in the U.S. and. We have several new types of studs. Even have a insulated stud now.
I would love to go to other countries to see how they build their homes and commercial spaces.and vice versa. Maybe get an exchange program going. 😊. The countries I do know a bit about are the U.S., Canada, & Germany. In Germany they try to build 100-200 year old structures. Canada is decent and some places in the U.S. build decent as will. It seems that the Germans and Switzerland have some of the best practices. But I know very little about the U.K. Building practices.
Ron
CLS stands for Canadian Lumber Standard. it pretty much comes down to a US 2x4 in a standard millimeter size.
UK, worst builders on planet. The country is carried by eastern Europeans.
Love all your tips robin must get one of them lasers all the best mate /Kev
Go for it Kev, still need to catch up for a coffee!
I really like the pants Robin is wearing. Does anyone know what they are called?
Brian C don’t know for sure but look like snickers skinny fit trousers
@@jbmaintenanceservices2699 you are spot on with the brand name. They are Snickers Workwear - AllroundWork, Stretch Trousers (6341). Thanks for your help!
Brian C that’s the one...knew it was something like that
@@BrianChristmas Never leave home without them.
I was taught to fix a bowed stud to cut halfway through at the backside of the bow and then tap a wedge in this elongates the back side of the bow. I don't understand how a 45* cut with a screw in will bring it back straight 😖
I do the wedge trick too, but with the CLS the cut and screw works particularly well too
So are you closing the gap with the screw made from the saw cut or does the screw open up the cut by pushing on it.
it closes the sawcut. so instead of making one side longer with a wedge, you make the other side shorter with closing the sawcut.
Richard Short that’s how I do it in New Zealand as well ...wooden wedges.
Ferry Groot Thank you for the explanation. My mechanical and logical way of thinking is that the 45* degree cut would need to be dead on centre of the stud crown to shorten it. I still think I prefer the wedge on the backside of the crown is the way to go. Thanks again brother.
Here's a question, how to you fix a base plate when you know there's a gas pipe running right underneath the concrete, exactly the whole length of the plate! :D Feels like i'm some special type of unlucky!
Great tip cheers robin
Great video, i reckon its great to work with you guys
Roger, got to say. You have a great Chippy there, wish there were more like him..and you for that matter.. Being a painter and decorator always having to come behind bad workmanship 😤😤 painter will sort it...
Why put laser on block to measure..instead of sole plate?
Watch it again. He explains how it compensates for the base plate of the saw. The cut line is set off the speed square
RR building on RUclips is a US post frame channel very very good and worth a look he show cases this level for his post frame stuff and other great tools
What about steel studs. They use them alot here in sweden.
rimmersbryggeri Rubbish, hate those things. Touch a wall made of that and you know it.
Awesome video:))
Are they 4 by 2 hes using
I thought I was the only one left with that saw lol....that saw is a soldier
I can’t believe I never used a speed square with a skill saw🙄!! What happened to the Hikoki nail gun??? I see you are back on the Paslode?
Robin is a stud
Just caught a video recently, and this one. Seems like there are a few interesting videos every once in a while. The rest of the time it seems to be just Product Endorsements.
It's a shame that you see them as 'just' product endorsements. We don't bring you anything we don't like and have turned away some offers involving awful products. Our library of 300+ videos contains very little sponsored content, probably under 10%.
We have produced two batches of sponsored videos lately for HiKOKI and Milwaukee who have great products which we're happy to showcase and it's warmly welcomed considering me, Dylan the editor, and Roger have switched to working full-time on Skill Builder this year.
How much is that laser measurer
About 100 pounds
@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin . Great informative vidoes as always . 👏
We always use lasers as much as possible.
Never knew site carpenters used circ saws for studs. Would have assumed mitre saw. Can see it would be just as efficient though if every stud is different length.
A circ is easier to carry to and from site. Mitre saws are usually bigger, heavier, and to use effectively need a stand.
why do we want a 45 cut do you mean a pull over saw or a snip saw
@@eddo167 I've never heard it called either of those things.
Where did you HIKOKI saw and nailer gone? Nice tips for straitig up studs.
One word...Magic!
Like it 👍
谢谢
You could eyeball all your studs crowns. And put all crowns same way
No DPC where timber touches concrete slab floor?
This is an existing finished floor, so no need for dpc
Great advice! Appreciated. Cheers.
Try metal stud work far better finish on all your walls and ceilings, I gave up on wood a few years ago after I did a course at British Gypsum at East Leake Nottingham. They have a good training center for all their products from plastering c stud, ceilings. Sound proofing etc.
Keep up the good work 👍
Hi Ray, I like metal too, but these studs where designed to share some roof loads so we had to go timber, thanks for the comment
@@ukconstruction you can actually get metal that supports walls also....
We are in the twenty first century and still making houses out of plant material