I pulled my 1965 model Ford 2000 this way. It didn't budge at all. I put chock blocks in front of and behind my rear wheels as well just to be safe but haven't had an issue so far. Great video and I appreciate you figuring out the math for us haha
I prefer straps over chains anyday. Just a tip also, if you know anyone who works at a fire department see if they can get you any old fire hose that's been replaced. Cut the hose into about 8inch pieces and slip your straps through them to prevent chafing. You can simply slide them anywhere up and down the strap to where you need them.
That's a great tip and idea. I've also heard of it being used for chainsaw scabbards, too. I'll definitely have to look into it! Thanks for checking us out!
I think there is little danger of front to back movement. So what I worry about is the side to side motion with the heigh center of gravity. And if the tie downs will stop any kind of rocking-tipping motion, you are home free. If the straps pull down as well as restrict forward and backwards motion, excellent. I would think the way to do that is increase the angle of the force. That would require shorter straps and a suitable latch point may not be available. In that case make sure two of the four tires do have a pull- down vector to them. Yes, I just bought four and I am seeing what others have done and thinking it through. Thanks for stirring my gray matter. Take care!
DOT also requires you to secure the bucket. You need to run a strap or chain across it. I haul Hotshot freight and I’d use those straps without fear. Do your required enroute inspections and you’ll be just fine. Great video!
Just an fyi when you attach the strap from the trailer to a point on the load you can only use half the stated working load limit per the DOT. If you attach a strap from the trailer through a point on the tractor, say a clevis, and then back to the trailer then you can use the total stated working load limit. For your case, being that the straps are attached from the trailer to the tractor, you have a working load limit total of 6,666 pounds on your straps. Meaning you could secure a tractor/ load weighing a total of 13,332 pounds. Personally, I always try to match the working load limit to the total load. Which would still be more than enough for your situation.
Also, you only have to secure the moveable arms like the loader if the load is over 10,000 pounds. Thats all national DOT though, may be different in your state.
Drag out chains and binders, anchor down at the four corners, throw a chain on the your weight box, and strap or chain across the loader bucket, better safe than sorry. Good video Mr. Tinker Tractor Welder Mechanic.
Hey there Brandall. I'm finally going to haul my tractor for the 1st time to friend's house to do some FEL lifting on several products he's having delivered. I'm still a bit leery hauling a tractor on tiny local roads. I'll video my experience.
I use straps on my Kubota L3560HSTC. As you pointed out, when i figure all the weight, my tractor is roughly 6,500lbs. My strap tie downs are rated 3,333WL and breaking at 10,000lbs. I use 4 straps to the tractor and I will usually hook two additional small straps to the rear implement if one is on the tractor. I know it is overkill, but I figure I would much rather have to much than not enough. I also use strap protectors for anywhere that the strap is coming in contact with a sharper edge.
Those L3560s are some nice tractors! And the cab will add more weight, too. I also had 1.5ton chain hoist/come-alongs on the grapple and the weight box, too. The biggest thing is to watch out for sharp edges and chaffing, just like you mentioned. I know these straps had some slight chaffing from rubbing on suspension components from the one previous time I used them hauling the Saab 600 miles one way home from Tennessee.
@@BigOrangeTractors My tractor weight base is 3,880 (the cab adds about 400lbs). When you add the fluids, beet juice filled tires, loader and bucket, and quick hitch, the tractor weighs 6,500. Plus, if I have the box blade on , that adds another 550lbs. We ended upgrading to a 12,000lbs trailer from our 7,000lbs trailer. The farthest we have trailered the tractor is to the dealer to get the 3rd function valve installed, which is 15 minutes from the farm. When I was shopping for a tractor, I was going to look at the Kioti, but closest dealer over an hour and half away, so I marked them off the list when I had Kubota, JD, LS, Mahindra, and New Holland all within 30 minutes. Keep up the good work on your videos and before you know it, your channel will be as big or bigger than Hanks!
@@BradMyers thanks so much! I actually drove 3 hours to buy the Kioti, because it was so much nicer than any of the "standard" tractors of the class. Dealer support is very important, and can make or break that decision. If I was in the market for a Grand L can (ie had the necessity or the extra cash), it certainly would have made things much easier. I've got 3 Kubota dealers in 3 different directions around 30 miles away. But I'm super happy with the Kioti brand, just wish I would have bought a larger cab machine to begin with. Thanks for checking me out, and for the nice words!
Brandell, I haven't hauled big equipment since I keep my tractor on the land but I'm about to haul the tractor to a friend's place to lend a helping hand. I did buy chains and binders to use on a borrowed trailer from my short 15 mile tractor trip. I'll let you know more after my experience. Enjoyed a full-watch. Have a fine New Year.
Thank you sir. I feel chains are for sure the number one method, but for quick trips and easy in-truck storage, I think the math puzzles out to this being a viable option. If I didn't already have these, I wouldn't have tried it. But since I had them laying around, I wanted to do the calculus. Good luck and be careful!
I like it. Think I'll copy your set up for my CK3510. Most the time I'm just hauling it 10 miles or less. I'd love to see the "other channel's" reaction lol.
I’m looking to get a set of these. I noticed you attached them directly to the stake pocket of your trailer, instead of one of your stake pocket D-rings. Was there a reason for this? I’d like to get a set with hook ends that can utilize my stake pocket D-rings.
That's just where they worked best at that time. Later on, I replaced the grab hooks for slip hooks, and I go directly to the d rings now. Thanks for taking the time to check the video out!
Good video. I haul 10 000 lbs machines so we use graded chains and 4 locks. Hamilton Farms sent me over. I'm a fan of this type of content. We love to weld and make stuff and log so i'll be following :)
I usually use chains, but wanted to look into these, since I had them laying around. Thanks for coming over. I'll try to put together some good videos on mechanic work, welding and farm fabrication projects, and chainsaw and small engine stuff.
Absolutely one hundred percent ⛓️ in my book All 4 points on the machine with a ratchet bear claw,+ One tractor-trailer strap.👍 For my small kubota backhoe b7510. Better to be safe than sorry..?🚜
If you look deeper into the regs, you only get HALF the WLL of those straps, because they do not go from one side to other, they are in-direct as you have them, in order to get full WLL you have to go from one side of trailer and hook to other side of trailer, which isn’t possible anyways. Refer to section 393.106 of 49CFR Your still fine and legal and within spec as like you said you only need to secure for half the weight of the object.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t believe the DOT standard applies to the average hauler who’s moving personal equipment. It is applicable to the commercial hauler … someone who hauls for a business. But it is still good information for securing a load. And be careful with how you plate your vehicle. If you add a commercial license plate to your vehicle, you can be stopped by the Weigh-master same as a commercial vehicle.
Regardless of suspension tires are going to ride the same on the trailer, but the Vulcan video on how to use this system says only pull straight down and slightly out, not fed or backwards, otherwise it's a great system that I would not hesitate to use.
I use these strap to haul my terex 5519 forklift it weights almost 12k lbs no problems. I also use the to haul a 4x4 military vehicle with independent suspension after about losing it by tying it down by the fame. It bounced on the suspension and the straps came loose it weights about 2.5k lbs.
Yeah, they work really well in a variety of applications. Within reason, and using your brain, there's no reason why these are inherently "bad". Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for review and video. You did the math and its rated, not sure what the complaint is,id make the haul 50+ miles and some. How do/did you like the kioti? I've been looking into them but still indecisive about buying 1.
I can't say I don't disagree. We lift lots of heavy, awkward, dangerous stuff with slings every day in field service and construction. You just have to take care of them.
I just tried to watch an awful video on how to do this. Thank goodness I click over to your video. Yourself way better. Nothing but useful information and logic and no BS.
Most people don't know this but yes you can absolutely use straps to secure anything as long as the working load limit is correct for the load. Under 10k lbs you need one strap in the front and one in the rear. Over 10k you need 1 strap per corner. The bucket or attachment gets another strap on it as well. This is according to federal law. Now the straps have to be in like new condition with no visible cuts, tears, knicks or any other damage whatsoever on them. You get 50% credit per strap on the working load limit. So if its a 5k lb strap then that strap counts for 2,500 lbs. So In that case you could only transport something up to 10k lbs with those straps if you have 1 per corner. The same goes for chains. But it goes off of the weakest item weather it's the chain or the binder. Whatever the weakest working load limit is of that securement device is, you get 50% of it counting towards your total for all 4 corners. I absolutely schooled a PA state trooper on this when he tried saying to me that my 7k lb skid steer wasn't secured properly because I was using straps. My straps were brand new and were rated for 10k lbs each and were 6" wide. I even carried around the section in the vehicle code and showed him the law. Making him feel like a real dumb ass.
Man I completely forgot about long lasso straps. I'm over here trying to think of ways to secure the rear end of a b7800 when it has 3pt attachments on it. Securing it via axles it just out the question. Had a tie down welded on and still the access wasn't ideal. I feel so silly
Hey, that's awesome feedback! Thanks for checking it out, and giving me a seal of approval! I know chains are best (and what I use most of the time), but for a short run, I don't see how these would be an issue. Thanks again for giving us a look-see!
Imo I just don’t like using straps to tie down my tractor or other heavy equipment. Just riding down the road it will work all day long. In the event of an accident and say you rear end someone and that piece of equipment slides forward on the trailer it puts a tremendous amount of strain on those straps. And you only have 2 points of contact holding in the rear. I prefer 2 points of contact on the frame with 2 separate chains front and rear. I don’t even like using 1 chain looped thru to each side. I know I’m rambling but a guy at work was in a minor fender bender at 20 mph. He rear ended a dump truck and if it weren’t for the gooseneck on the trailer the skid steer would have been in the cab with him. And it had a single chain looped thru the bucket for rear tie down. Anyway just my 2 cents. Great video👍
I really don't understand why a lot of people have such a problem with tie straps. For one it's legal because as long as whatever you're using to tie down your load has a WLL rating it's legal! I just find it comical and very annoying that people try to push what they believe is true or right even though you're within compliance. It gets me torqued
The lasso straps are fine, but they should be on the tire at 2 and 10 o'clock, and anchored at 6 o'clock (like the Kubota screen shot you included). Or, so I'm told. Your position on the wheels seems close, but they are definitely not anchored at 6.
What would be the downside of going 10/2 then strapping fore and aft of the wheels? I feel like that would keep the tractor from rocking? When you chain down you generally don't chain straight down. If you lock the parking brake and keep it in 4wd I can't see the wheels wanting to rotate the straps off. I'm not sure just thinking out loud.
@@jdboy9 I strap all 4 wheels down at 6 o'clock and then have axle straps. So I am secure from the vehicle from rocking front to back also. I overkill when securing any load.
I agree. You have to keep an eye on straps, regardless of the use. I've had them get cut when hauling light implements only on the trailer. However, chains are the same way. I've thrown away dozens of stretched 5/16" and 3/8" chains, too. Granted, they've been used to pull stuck tractors, dozers, and dump trucks, but still. You can't just "trust" that chains aren't stretched or damaged, either.
@@BigOrangeTractors i have a chain that i snapped pulling a 10" pine stump hooked 1.5' off the ground because i was dead pulling with 57 JD 520 but the tires kept finding 6" rocks buried while letting her dig and bouncing started. I put a repair link in it but aint using it for tie down chain. I need one more j hook and make a bracket for the front of tractor then weld heavy d rings on trl so i can make dedicated tie down chains for tractor and save my 7 or 8 chains for hauling logs or equipment or when i screw up like a few years ago buried tractor in the woods and needed all my chains to get on a big enough tree to come along off of
I believe your math is wrong. You have 2 straps going forward, and 2 straps going back. So, 3,333 x 2 = 6,666 for straps going in each direction. If you have a sudden stop, then only the 2 straps on the rear will be holding the tractor. They will have to break and the tractor surge forward 8 feet out of control before it reaches the end of the other two straps. I dislike the Y strapping method shown in the Facebook image, and mentioned by @hofzer. As I surmised, a video by @Mud Bandit Offroad shows the vehicle can roll forward or back a few inches if tied down with the "Y". That may be OK in some situations, but not all. A 3,333 strap from forward on the trailer, around an axle, and back forward to the trailer will give double the strength, 6,666 lbs per strap. Keeping in mind that the front tractor axle is only held on at the center pivot.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Short trips, easy on/off. I definitely feel it is better than some of the folks around me locally who put one chain and call it good!
Let's say when it comes to electrical and wiring I'm challenged. I got an led light bar for Christmas. The CK10 series has those two bullet connections near the right side of the rops for the rear work light option correct?
I think the whole point of the video was to show that math works out to where it isn't a risk at all. Well within the ratings. As long as they're properly secured, and not cut or damaged, it should be fine
@@BigOrangeTractors The math is incorrect. You are suppose to multiple the weight limit by 4 (number of straps) and then divide by 2. You didn't divide by 2.
Thanks for explaining! Good topic. Nice Kioti! We found your channel from a comment you left on Andrew C.'s page. We'd appreciate if you'd give our channel a look if you're not already following us and have a minute. Thanks!
DOT says 4 "SEPERATE" tiedowns, a chain through 2 eyes and to opposite sides with 1 binder can get you OutOfService then you need to call a Tow to get your trailer and your P/U {tractor} off the highway. Those are some of my favorite tow jobs. And NO the cop/Trooper does NOT have to let you "Fix" it after he tickets you.
My problem with those on a tractor is I don't feel that the straps are pulling to the correct angle because the tractor is not as wide as a car and the tires are an awkward size for them. They are not supposed to pull at an angle.
I understand your concern. I can move the straps anywhere on the trailer, so the angle can be removed. And the length wasn't an issue, because there is still a significant amount of strap left to promote good hold of the strap in the ratchet. Thanks for the comment, and I will keep it in mind next time I strap up.
I think I just proved how/why it can be done. I agree that chains are the best choice, and what I use on a daily basis. However, these are a viable, and easier, alternative. Thanks for checking us out.
I pulled my 1965 model Ford 2000 this way. It didn't budge at all. I put chock blocks in front of and behind my rear wheels as well just to be safe but haven't had an issue so far. Great video and I appreciate you figuring out the math for us haha
I prefer straps over chains anyday. Just a tip also, if you know anyone who works at a fire department see if they can get you any old fire hose that's been replaced. Cut the hose into about 8inch pieces and slip your straps through them to prevent chafing. You can simply slide them anywhere up and down the strap to where you need them.
That's a great tip and idea. I've also heard of it being used for chainsaw scabbards, too. I'll definitely have to look into it! Thanks for checking us out!
I think there is little danger of front to back movement. So what I worry about is the side to side motion with the heigh center of gravity. And if the tie downs will stop any kind of rocking-tipping motion, you are home free. If the straps pull down as well as restrict forward and backwards motion, excellent. I would think the way to do that is increase the angle of the force. That would require shorter straps and a suitable latch point may not be available. In that case make sure two of the four tires do have a pull- down vector to them. Yes, I just bought four and I am seeing what others have done and thinking it through. Thanks for stirring my gray matter. Take care!
DOT also requires you to secure the bucket. You need to run a strap or chain across it. I haul Hotshot freight and I’d use those straps without fear. Do your required enroute inspections and you’ll be just fine. Great video!
Thanks for checking it out. I didn't address it, but I actually had them loader and the ballast box both chained down.
Just an fyi when you attach the strap from the trailer to a point on the load you can only use half the stated working load limit per the DOT. If you attach a strap from the trailer through a point on the tractor, say a clevis, and then back to the trailer then you can use the total stated working load limit. For your case, being that the straps are attached from the trailer to the tractor, you have a working load limit total of 6,666 pounds on your straps. Meaning you could secure a tractor/ load weighing a total of 13,332 pounds. Personally, I always try to match the working load limit to the total load. Which would still be more than enough for your situation.
Also, you only have to secure the moveable arms like the loader if the load is over 10,000 pounds. Thats all national DOT though, may be different in your state.
Thanks for the clarification, and for checking out the video!
Interesting.
Drag out chains and binders, anchor down at the four corners, throw a chain on the your weight box, and strap or chain across the loader bucket, better safe than sorry. Good video Mr. Tinker Tractor Welder Mechanic.
Thanks for watching.
Hey there Brandall. I'm finally going to haul my tractor for the 1st time to friend's house to do some FEL lifting on several products he's having delivered. I'm still a bit leery hauling a tractor on tiny local roads. I'll video my experience.
I use straps on my Kubota L3560HSTC. As you pointed out, when i figure all the weight, my tractor is roughly 6,500lbs. My strap tie downs are rated 3,333WL and breaking at 10,000lbs. I use 4 straps to the tractor and I will usually hook two additional small straps to the rear implement if one is on the tractor. I know it is overkill, but I figure I would much rather have to much than not enough. I also use strap protectors for anywhere that the strap is coming in contact with a sharper edge.
Those L3560s are some nice tractors! And the cab will add more weight, too. I also had 1.5ton chain hoist/come-alongs on the grapple and the weight box, too. The biggest thing is to watch out for sharp edges and chaffing, just like you mentioned. I know these straps had some slight chaffing from rubbing on suspension components from the one previous time I used them hauling the Saab 600 miles one way home from Tennessee.
@@BigOrangeTractors My tractor weight base is 3,880 (the cab adds about 400lbs). When you add the fluids, beet juice filled tires, loader and bucket, and quick hitch, the tractor weighs 6,500. Plus, if I have the box blade on , that adds another 550lbs. We ended upgrading to a 12,000lbs trailer from our 7,000lbs trailer. The farthest we have trailered the tractor is to the dealer to get the 3rd function valve installed, which is 15 minutes from the farm. When I was shopping for a tractor, I was going to look at the Kioti, but closest dealer over an hour and half away, so I marked them off the list when I had Kubota, JD, LS, Mahindra, and New Holland all within 30 minutes. Keep up the good work on your videos and before you know it, your channel will be as big or bigger than Hanks!
@@BradMyers thanks so much! I actually drove 3 hours to buy the Kioti, because it was so much nicer than any of the "standard" tractors of the class. Dealer support is very important, and can make or break that decision. If I was in the market for a Grand L can (ie had the necessity or the extra cash), it certainly would have made things much easier. I've got 3 Kubota dealers in 3 different directions around 30 miles away. But I'm super happy with the Kioti brand, just wish I would have bought a larger cab machine to begin with. Thanks for checking me out, and for the nice words!
Brandell, I haven't hauled big equipment since I keep my tractor on the land but I'm about to haul the tractor to a friend's place to lend a helping hand. I did buy chains and binders to use on a borrowed trailer from my short 15 mile tractor trip. I'll let you know more after my experience. Enjoyed a full-watch. Have a fine New Year.
Thank you sir. I feel chains are for sure the number one method, but for quick trips and easy in-truck storage, I think the math puzzles out to this being a viable option. If I didn't already have these, I wouldn't have tried it. But since I had them laying around, I wanted to do the calculus. Good luck and be careful!
How long were your lasso straps? I can only find 12’ long. Where did you get your strap setup?
I like it. Think I'll copy your set up for my CK3510. Most the time I'm just hauling it 10 miles or less. I'd love to see the "other channel's" reaction lol.
Thanks. I think for short trips on rural roads, this would be all that is needed. Much easier than lugging around chains and binders.
I’m looking to get a set of these. I noticed you attached them directly to the stake pocket of your trailer, instead of one of your stake pocket D-rings. Was there a reason for this? I’d like to get a set with hook ends that can utilize my stake pocket D-rings.
That's just where they worked best at that time. Later on, I replaced the grab hooks for slip hooks, and I go directly to the d rings now. Thanks for taking the time to check the video out!
Good video. I haul 10 000 lbs machines so we use graded chains and 4 locks. Hamilton Farms sent me over. I'm a fan of this type of content. We love to weld and make stuff and log so i'll be following :)
I usually use chains, but wanted to look into these, since I had them laying around. Thanks for coming over. I'll try to put together some good videos on mechanic work, welding and farm fabrication projects, and chainsaw and small engine stuff.
Absolutely one hundred percent ⛓️ in my book All 4 points on the machine with a ratchet bear claw,+ One tractor-trailer strap.👍 For my small kubota backhoe b7510. Better to be safe than sorry..?🚜
If you look deeper into the regs, you only get HALF the WLL of those straps, because they do not go from one side to other, they are in-direct as you have them, in order to get full WLL you have to go from one side of trailer and hook to other side of trailer, which isn’t possible anyways. Refer to section 393.106 of 49CFR Your still fine and legal and within spec as like you said you only need to secure for half the weight of the object.
Thanks for the clarification.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t believe the DOT standard applies to the average hauler who’s moving personal equipment. It is applicable to the commercial hauler … someone who hauls for a business. But it is still good information for securing a load.
And be careful with how you plate your vehicle. If you add a commercial license plate to your vehicle, you can be stopped by the Weigh-master same as a commercial vehicle.
Regardless of suspension tires are going to ride the same on the trailer, but the Vulcan video on how to use this system says only pull straight down and slightly out, not fed or backwards, otherwise it's a great system that I would not hesitate to use.
Thanks for watching.
I use these strap to haul my terex 5519 forklift it weights almost 12k lbs no problems. I also use the to haul a 4x4 military vehicle with independent suspension after about losing it by tying it down by the fame. It bounced on the suspension and the straps came loose it weights about 2.5k lbs.
Yeah, they work really well in a variety of applications. Within reason, and using your brain, there's no reason why these are inherently "bad". Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for review and video. You did the math and its rated, not sure what the complaint is,id make the haul 50+ miles and some. How do/did you like the kioti? I've been looking into them but still indecisive about buying 1.
I think it's great. Hands down was, and probably still is, the best bang for your buck.
Great vid. Very informative
Thanks. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment!
I think it will work fine. I like this set up.
Thanks for watching.
@@BigOrangeTractors 👍🏼
Where I worked. We lifted 80k lb With nylon lifting straps. Chains are dinosaurs
I can't say I don't disagree. We lift lots of heavy, awkward, dangerous stuff with slings every day in field service and construction. You just have to take care of them.
Just subscribed buddy, great video! Very funny and a great open minded point of view!
Thanks so much, sir. I think it's important to consider all of your options!
@@BigOrangeTractors I agree! Keep it up!
Well I really enjoyed the music. 👍🏻
I just tried to watch an awful video on how to do this. Thank goodness I click over to your video. Yourself way better. Nothing but useful information and logic and no BS.
Thanks for checking it out! Glad you felt it was useful. Good luck hauling your stuff!
It will work on any lent trip as long as you can hear a tone of you tap the strap and check each 100miles
Thanks for watching! Yeah, definitely agree with checking them often.
Most people don't know this but yes you can absolutely use straps to secure anything as long as the working load limit is correct for the load. Under 10k lbs you need one strap in the front and one in the rear. Over 10k you need 1 strap per corner. The bucket or attachment gets another strap on it as well. This is according to federal law. Now the straps have to be in like new condition with no visible cuts, tears, knicks or any other damage whatsoever on them. You get 50% credit per strap on the working load limit. So if its a 5k lb strap then that strap counts for 2,500 lbs. So In that case you could only transport something up to 10k lbs with those straps if you have 1 per corner. The same goes for chains. But it goes off of the weakest item weather it's the chain or the binder. Whatever the weakest working load limit is of that securement device is, you get 50% of it counting towards your total for all 4 corners. I absolutely schooled a PA state trooper on this when he tried saying to me that my 7k lb skid steer wasn't secured properly because I was using straps. My straps were brand new and were rated for 10k lbs each and were 6" wide. I even carried around the section in the vehicle code and showed him the law. Making him feel like a real dumb ass.
Thanks for watching!
Nice info, new to me
Great video... tying things down has not been our strong suit... especially inside our toy hauler...lol!!
Man I completely forgot about long lasso straps. I'm over here trying to think of ways to secure the rear end of a b7800 when it has 3pt attachments on it. Securing it via axles it just out the question. Had a tie down welded on and still the access wasn't ideal. I feel so silly
this looks good to me because you have the implements tied down and all four tires secured let's find out from tractor time with Tim
Thanks for checking out the video. I sure hope it can get the Tractor Time with Tim seal of approval.
I'm a flatbed truck driver I will Drag that all over the United States the way you tide it down
Hey, that's awesome feedback! Thanks for checking it out, and giving me a seal of approval! I know chains are best (and what I use most of the time), but for a short run, I don't see how these would be an issue. Thanks again for giving us a look-see!
Imo I just don’t like using straps to tie down my tractor or other heavy equipment. Just riding down the road it will work all day long. In the event of an accident and say you rear end someone and that piece of equipment slides forward on the trailer it puts a tremendous amount of strain on those straps. And you only have 2 points of contact holding in the rear. I prefer 2 points of contact on the frame with 2 separate chains front and rear. I don’t even like using 1 chain looped thru to each side. I know I’m rambling but a guy at work was in a minor fender bender at 20 mph. He rear ended a dump truck and if it weren’t for the gooseneck on the trailer the skid steer would have been in the cab with him. And it had a single chain looped thru the bucket for rear tie down. Anyway just my 2 cents. Great video👍
Thanks for watching.
I really don't understand why a lot of people have such a problem with tie straps. For one it's legal because as long as whatever you're using to tie down your load has a WLL rating it's legal! I just find it comical and very annoying that people try to push what they believe is true or right even though you're within compliance. It gets me torqued
Yep, that's exactly why I made this video. I just wanted to go step by step to point out that it can be legal and perfectly fine. Thanks for watching!
The lasso straps are fine, but they should be on the tire at 2 and 10 o'clock, and anchored at 6 o'clock (like the Kubota screen shot you included). Or, so I'm told. Your position on the wheels seems close, but they are definitely not anchored at 6.
I suppose I was going for the corners, sort of like chains. Thanks for the tip, and for checking in!
Wouldn't anchoring at 6 o'clock reduce the ability for them to hold the tractor from moving fore or aft?
What would be the downside of going 10/2 then strapping fore and aft of the wheels? I feel like that would keep the tractor from rocking? When you chain down you generally don't chain straight down. If you lock the parking brake and keep it in 4wd I can't see the wheels wanting to rotate the straps off. I'm not sure just thinking out loud.
@@jdboy9 I strap all 4 wheels down at 6 o'clock and then have axle straps. So I am secure from the vehicle from rocking front to back also. I overkill when securing any load.
The only issue I have with straps is they can be compromised if the straps get cut at all whereas chains will not have the same type of issue.
I agree. You have to keep an eye on straps, regardless of the use. I've had them get cut when hauling light implements only on the trailer. However, chains are the same way. I've thrown away dozens of stretched 5/16" and 3/8" chains, too. Granted, they've been used to pull stuck tractors, dozers, and dump trucks, but still. You can't just "trust" that chains aren't stretched or damaged, either.
@@BigOrangeTractors i have a chain that i snapped pulling a 10" pine stump hooked 1.5' off the ground because i was dead pulling with 57 JD 520 but the tires kept finding 6" rocks buried while letting her dig and bouncing started. I put a repair link in it but aint using it for tie down chain. I need one more j hook and make a bracket for the front of tractor then weld heavy d rings on trl so i can make dedicated tie down chains for tractor and save my 7 or 8 chains for hauling logs or equipment or when i screw up like a few years ago buried tractor in the woods and needed all my chains to get on a big enough tree to come along off of
It'll work!
Thanks for checking out the video, and thanks for the vote of confidence!
By George, I believe it will work.
Thanks for watching.
I have smaller straps like that for my atv, don’t tie those that far away from the tires or they will loosen.
Thanks for that too. I will keep it in mind next time I tow with these straps.
I believe your math is wrong. You have 2 straps going forward, and 2 straps going back. So, 3,333 x 2 = 6,666 for straps going in each direction. If you have a sudden stop, then only the 2 straps on the rear will be holding the tractor. They will have to break and the tractor surge forward 8 feet out of control before it reaches the end of the other two straps.
I dislike the Y strapping method shown in the Facebook image, and mentioned by
@hofzer. As I surmised, a video by @Mud Bandit Offroad shows the vehicle can roll forward or back a few inches if tied down with the "Y". That may be OK in some situations, but not all.
A 3,333 strap from forward on the trailer, around an axle, and back forward to the trailer will give double the strength, 6,666 lbs per strap. Keeping in mind that the front tractor axle is only held on at the center pivot.
I believe it would work. We’re you from
Thanks! I was living in Florida when I did this video, but now back home in Tennessee. Thanks for watching!
Seems ok to me but I don't haul for a living. Definitely don't see a problem for short trips.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Short trips, easy on/off. I definitely feel it is better than some of the folks around me locally who put one chain and call it good!
Lol
Hey Brandell, are you available for some guidance?
@@jasoncline4383 what's up?
Let's say when it comes to electrical and wiring I'm challenged. I got an led light bar for Christmas. The CK10 series has those two bullet connections near the right side of the rops for the rear work light option correct?
If it works for you then that's fine. I only use chains. I'm not a risk taker.
I think the whole point of the video was to show that math works out to where it isn't a risk at all. Well within the ratings. As long as they're properly secured, and not cut or damaged, it should be fine
@@BigOrangeTractors The math is incorrect. You are suppose to multiple the weight limit by 4 (number of straps) and then divide by 2. You didn't divide by 2.
Thanks for explaining! Good topic. Nice Kioti! We found your channel from a comment you left on Andrew C.'s page. We'd appreciate if you'd give our channel a look if you're not already following us and have a minute. Thanks!
Absolutely. Thanks for checking out my channel. I love the community that youtube can create, for sure!
With that weight you only need 2 , 3/8 chains and 2, binders. Way less work. No need for 4 of each. I don’t understand.
No way that using 3/8" chains and binders is less work than these lightweight straps.
DOT says 4 "SEPERATE" tiedowns, a chain through 2 eyes and to opposite sides with 1 binder can get you OutOfService then you need to call a Tow to get your trailer and your P/U {tractor} off the highway.
Those are some of my favorite tow jobs. And NO the cop/Trooper does NOT have to let you "Fix" it after he tickets you.
if it works for you cool but I would never tie down to a wheel , hard points only for me
Thanks for watching.
You only get to use 50% because you used it as a direct tie down.
My problem with those on a tractor is I don't feel that the straps are pulling to the correct angle because the tractor is not as wide as a car and the tires are an awkward size for them. They are not supposed to pull at an angle.
I understand your concern. I can move the straps anywhere on the trailer, so the angle can be removed. And the length wasn't an issue, because there is still a significant amount of strap left to promote good hold of the strap in the ratchet. Thanks for the comment, and I will keep it in mind next time I strap up.
They are used like that all the time in the Towing & Recovery field
never use strap tie / all way chain 2 or 4 chain , your chioce !
I think I just proved how/why it can be done. I agree that chains are the best choice, and what I use on a daily basis. However, these are a viable, and easier, alternative. Thanks for checking us out.
It's still unsafe. The fabric could stretch or wear-down. Chains are the only safe things for a tractor.
Not sure I see the difference between a 4,000 pound tractor and a 4,000 pound car, which these are made for.
there fine ,chains can stretch to. and straps can be stored in your truck