Mr. Selby, " The real gunsmith " , has a video where he discusses the Ruger number one fore end causing problems because of how it is attached to the hanger. The bolt is angled at 45 degrees to the bore and puts a lot of pressure against the barrel at the front of the fore end. One more possible variable to throw out there. I really enjoy following you as you work to get the best from these beautiful firearms.
If i remember correctly, it was a commonplace in the late seventies and earlier eighties that the Number 1, especially with the Henry fore end, have a pressure versus barrel problem. The solution was supposed to be drilling a hole and filling an 8/40 set screw to put positive pressure between the fore end and the barrel. I did not own a Ruger 1 then so I never tried it. But some good people - including Ross Seifried - says it was crucial to accuracy in this rifle. I tend to believe it.
Glad I seen your comment before I typed mine saying the exact same thing! I love no.1’s I’ve always wanted one but the more I’ve learned about them in regards to accuracy I don’t know if I want that stress in my life! I’m a serious hand loader who may or may not obsess over tiny groups so the no.1’s are like that pretty girl I know is too much trouble!
Hey Tom, I found your channel because I'm Canadian and my dad had a bunch of milsurp Lee Enfields when I was a kid. Anyway I find these videos really interesting because a lot of channels tend to show successes and not the troubleshooting that is often required to get there.
I’m 61 years old. I’ve been watching your hand loading videos for a few years now. I’m not a computer wise person. So that being said, I’ve figured out finally how to subscribe and text a comment. I love your videos and have learned a lot from your experience with reloading and troubleshooting your rifles. I watch many of them time and time again when I need refreshed on what to do. Keep it up. And like you say! God Bless!
Doing the same tests on a #1 in 7x57. Free floated the barrel off the forend and she's good for about 6 rounds before barrel heat starts getting significant. Thanks for the info!
I had a hard time deciding between the No1 in 303 and 7x57. I eventually chose the 303 just because there really aren't any other choices for 303 but there are a few other choices for 7x57. But that No1 in 7x57 is one sweet rifle! Congrats on yours.
You might want to check out Sniper 101 videos, regardless copper equilibrium. The message conveyed in those videos is that snipers notice that starting with a brand new barrel, or a barrel that is subject to cleaning that takes out copper fouling typically have inconsistent velocities. Their claim is that shooting while watching velocities closely, cooper will be deposited in any small inconsistency in the barrel, which restricts the barrel more. Eventually copper jacket bullets will take out excessive copper fouling and replace it with new copper fouling and velocities will stabilize. Snipers call this copper equilibrium. At that point velocities will plateau or increase at a minimal rate for hundreds of shots allowing snipers one shot, one kill. Once accuracy starts to erode, snipers clean their barrels “down to metal” and start all over building back up to copper equilibrium conditions. Typically achieving copper equalibrium takes 50 shots, or less. I tested the copper equilibrium theory on a brand new Krieger barrel. The theory of copper equalibrium proved to be true. Standard deviation 6 fps, and .69” five shot groups consistently. Since I no longer shoot competitively, my rifles are strictly hunting rifles, therefore, for me hundreds of shots that eventually cause accuracy erosion will probably never happen. East test is to load up some inexpensive copper jacketed bullets and go shoot your gun 50 times over a chronograph without cleaning it and see if your velocities become stable. If that works, another concern that I would have is that barrel band messing with the harmonics of your barrel. Every detail matters with accuracy, obviously.
Tom… as a shooter for around 50 yrs and having owned 6 different Ruger number ones in the sporter and varmint models… I’ve never owned one with minute of angle accuracy…Usually a 1 1/2 inch group at 100 yds was the best I could expect..Same deal 1st shot or two..then the rifles would string the group… My best number one was a number one B in 22 250 and once in a while I could get a group under a inch but it was mainly a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 shooter.. Different articles I’ve read over the yrs ..is the front stock hanger contributed to the group changing from the barrel heating..I’ve read there is a remedy to partly correct the problem… but that was a long time ago when I saw the article so I can’t remember what shooting magazine I saw it in….I was doing a lot of load testing with these rifles to get them to shoot a inch group..but finally came to the conclusion that the rifle design was behind the mediocre groups.. But anyway you look at it ..they’re beautiful rifles with a classic design..just not the shooters as many of our bolt rifles are…My Remington 700s..DuPont made rifles and Savage 110 series rifles will shoot lights out..without a ton of load development…same with my CZ 527s..
Tom.. I am looking forward to you doing more research and range work to get your number one to shoot.. good luck there and looking forward to more videos on this rifle..
I had two Tikka rifles that were doing this. Someone had me check the free float of the barrel. Both of them didn’t pass the test. So I took off the stock and corrected the problem. That turned out to be the answer to my problem. I know this doesn't address the velocity, but the rise after the cold bore shot. Good luck.
I might try spitzer and flat base bullets over Boatail bullets if you haven’t tried them and round nose flat base bullets. It is a proven problem with boat tail bullets sometimes show gasses passing out the muzzle prior to the bullet exiting the bore. In turn causing less accurate results. Reducing velocity may also be a direction to try too. If the problem continues, I would take that short barrel off and use it for an anchor. It would cost less in bullets powder and primers for new a barrel than fighting with one that will not shoot to your satisfaction. A nice 26-inch stainless number 5 contour Douglas barrel will shoot with less recoil and higher velocities, it worked for me once.🤔👍
'Snappy'. Yep. I had a Ruger Number 3 in .45-70. The No. 3 is lighter than the No 1. By quite a bit. It didn't take long before I put the No. 3 away because I didn't like the recoil. By the way, I wasn't too recoil sensitive. I regularly hunted with a Sako Finnbear in .338 Win mag. I have also owned two rifles in .458 Win Mag and one in .416 Remington. I didn't get rid of the No 3. Instead I rebarrelled it to a lighter cartridge and had a 27 inch medium weight barrel nstalled. That added about two lbs to the weight of the rifle and made it something I could use.
If you have an oversized bore they do make 175gr J bore bullets that are .318 diameter. Brownells has them and a few other online retailers. Also Ron Spomer had a Dakota 10 similar to the ruger #1 alot of his problems went away after moving the forearm on the rest. Like alot of others that mentioned the forearm pressure. Also you could do a cast bullet and paper patch it. I believe I've already said that before. Anyway I always like the looks of the #1 but I don't need more problems in life. Good luck with it.
If it shot good with factory and you've changed bullets and powder I'd start looking at the brass or more importantly the primers. Maybe the primers are creating inconsistent ignition leading to the vertical
I only have experience with two No 1's,one is my brother has a No.1 Sporter in 30/06 with a 22in barrel,making it a really short rifle,and I had a 1B in 300 Winchester with a 26in barrel.We both found good loads that our rifles like in short order. Maybe we got lucky,who knows.But we also had loads that just would not shoot.One thing I learned,or heard,was that NO 1's are notorious for being finicky,but also that part of that has to do with the front forearm screw.Adding or releasing tension can make a world of difference.But I don't believe that you are to that point yet because your velocities are all over the place.Once you can get the velocity consistent,then that may be something to try,adjusting the screw that is.But if your bore is oversized,there is not much more you can do.I feel for you in this because it's a sweet little rifle and would be great for what you want it for,but if it won't shoot,then you have decisions to make.Wishing you luck and I'll keep watching to see what happens.Enjoy your videos,keep up the good work.
It's a cold bore shooter not a bench rest gun i have a Thompson the first two shots are beside each other the third shot is an inch higher fourth another inch higher an continues so all the shots i take on a deer is cold bore im fine with that
Man oh Man this was good! So much to learn through your trials and errors, and successes too. As the proud owner of a Ruger No 1 in .308, which also does have a snappy temper that can pester on occasion, I find that the one shot rifle at least is good on the first shot. I got a deer this year with a shot that was within the silver dollar of where I was shooting. My paper series tend to show an erratic second shot with the follow on shots creeping back toward the zero. All of what you do with the .303 is germane to my experience. Thank you for such hands-on tips and neat lessons. I love, love your show.
Enjoying this video series. I too have just gotten a Ruger No1 in 303 and I’m having exactly the same issues as you. Never in my 40 years of reloading have I had such a hard time finding a load that shoots well. But that’s what I enjoy about reloading.
Serious question. Why the focus on groups in a hunting rifle? The most important shot in a hunting rifle is the cold bore shot. The follow up is because the first time one missed… why are groups important? If the hunter misses, it’s very very unlikely that the same spot is the target.
I agree on the point about cold bore shot being most important. I would add that a CLEAN cold bore shot is most important. Group size is about confidence for me. If I know my rifle/ammo combo is accurate, I go into the woods with full confidence in it.
HI Tom, check into using a set screw in the fore end hanger. It's improved the accuracy in 4 different number 1s I've owned over the years. I was shown this back in the 80s by a ruger nut and it works. Might not solve all the issues you're having but will eliminate some of the stringing I'd bet. I'm Canadian and grew up with the 303 love that cartridge.
Hi Tom. I was out at the range today with one of my Lee Enfields. I was getting frustrated when I realized a couple of shots of 00 buckshot would equate to what I just did with a whole box of factory ammo! Slight exageration but not entirely. I appreciate your calm and meticulous approach. I will be applying your ballistics detective skills when I go out next. BTW, I recently shot a Ruger no. 1 in .416 Rigby and my accuracy was good but I gonged myself in the eye with the scope. And greetings from Canada.
I have a Savage 99 (.308 W with 1-12" twist rate) that will stack 150gr Winchester Power Point white box ammo one on top of another @100yds ( sub MOA with an occasional flier) it won't however, shoot Hornady 150gr (Whitetail) ammo worth a damn (over 3 MOA at best)! So bullet construction and profile also matter, coupled with twist rate/velocity. Hornady isn't the only ammo that shoots lousy, it just happens to be the brand you are testing with but, I hope my experience helps explain some of the issues/factors with what you are up against.
Hello Tom. First of all I love your videos! As per others, I have always heard that Ruger single shots do have issues with forearm (hangers?). The wide variations in velocities is a definite red flag too. I have shot handloaded enfields for over 30 years and agree that you should slug the barrel. I have gotten amazing accuracy with cast bullets, lately powder coated, sizing to .315 which is .001 over my bore diameter. Every rifle is an adventure, and this one is giving you a run for your money! Best wishes!
Ruger #1's have been known to have this kind of issue. Some guys are willing to admit it, and others claim they have never seen it. The ones I've seen, have all been prone to stringing shots, as the barrel heats up. Like someone else said, it's probably the forend hanger and pressure on the barrel. There have been some articles on this as well. There are also some pieces that go into detail about how to set up the barrel to forend to minimize this stringing. Good luck with your rifle. Obviously it has a known issue, that is common to this rifle type. I suggest doing an internet search, and finding out how you can fix this ailing rifle.
Lots of solutions to #1 stringing vertically. Hicks Acurizer is a common solution as are several mods to apply tension between the forend and the hanger. Might want to google a few of those and try a quick andcdirry adjustment to see if it makes a change. .
I believe Ruger uses their own hammer-forged barrels. You might want to contact the Ruger service department and explain the problem to them. I would think they would like to know about your rifle’s issue. I would expect spending a premium price for a premium rifle means it should perform at a premium level.👍😐
Another great report Tom, when it comes to that .303" you're like a dog with a bone. Keep at it we all need to know what it will take to get it to shoot. Who knows, maybe a paper patch on those Hornady bullets.
I’d say you’re dealing with the infamous number 1 forearm hanger. Make a spacer to try and float the barrel and I bet that rifle would start coming into its own. Number ones can be fussy mistresses with forearm design.
Hi Tom.That barrel may have real potential,going by first shots in each group.SAAMI specs are up to .314".I just got a new match barrel at .314" and use Hornady,Speer and Sierra.They all shoot well.Military barrels can have huge differences in dimensions,from .310" up to .315" or more.I measured a mk6 215gr roundnose bullet from 1916 at .310" diameter.Keep on it,it will be interesting to find the problem.
SD, I was just learning that about the spec actually being .314 for 303 and I just slugged this bore and it's .314 which turns out that's exactly what it's suppose to be. I also just finished filming the next video and I said there exactly what you just said about 303's shooting all of the different size bullets accurately for all of these decades so it must not be an issue. I have to say I have learned a lot about 303's with this rifle. And I was thinking the same thing about this rifle having some potential with those first three cold bore shots. I've just got to find the right load for this rifle and get rid of those wild swings in velocity.
Hello Tom have you tried a Hicks Accurizer. I have an older No.1-A in 7x57. Very long throat and I believe a wilson barrel. I shoot 150gr. TSX seated out hanging on by its toenails. Accacy was good , but installed the Hicks Accurizer and point of aim stays consistent. Good luck.
I use round nose in some of my 06s they still shoot 300yds + a little and group tight a whole lot of rifling contact with a round nose. Try some Rem corelokts 180s I believe for 303.
Slower burning powders actually make a higher felt recoiled than the faster burning powders. So look for faster burning powders. Get a decelerator for it, and it will help ur shoulder and on how the rifle flairs.
I enjoy your videos and the honesty of your commentary. Hawk makes a 150 grain bullet that measures .316. That might be worth a shot. BTW, are you planning to get back to another work in progress, your M70 SG Featherweight 7x57? I'm really interested in that one. Thanks again.
If your first "cold barrel" shot is spot on every time, then maybe, for this rifle, you're good. Every first hunting shot is a cold barrel shot. But I understand the chasing of perfection. I do it myself.
Ruger is notorious for using the incorrect bore diameter... on purpose! They use .308" barrels on the Mini-30 when 99% of your 7.62X39 ammo is .310". My favorite 303 projectile is the 180 grain, Remington round nose. Works in 7.62X54R, 7.7X58 & 303. But, might be too slender for your Ruger's bore. 🤠
Don, I actually have a few Remington 180's but I was worried about them being .310 so I haven't tried them. But I might try them before this is over. And that would explain why the Remington 180 factory ammo always had higher velocities than other 180's. And in Ruger's defense on this one, they didn't make the bore over size. It turns out the spec on 303 is for it to be oversize. And I'll get into all of that next week.
I’ve had better results with bullets with a longer driving band surface (heavy flat base) out of old surplus rifles with a lot of erosion. Have a 1917 Enfield .30-06, and the bore slugs .311” dia. Tried a variety of .311 bullets, and it was 180 gr flat base round nose Speers that began to shoot like my 03s and 03A3.
Hi Tom . Love your channel especially the .303 stuff . Just a thought , have you measured the Hornady bullets .? I just measured some .312 Hornady 174 gr Interlocks and they were either .311 or .3115. Haven't found a .312 yet in that box . Speer 180gr Hot Cor are all bang on the money at .311 . Anyways , I'll let you get back to work . All the best 👍.
Tom, Aren't you chasing two things at once? If your cold bore shots all hit in the same place, that's your hunting shot and no more work needs to be done. If you want to target shoot groups with multiple shots, then the vertical climb and other flyers need to be addressed; but those additional target group shots are not hunting shots.
This is the first time I've seen your channel and you do a good job. You have good accuracy on first shots. It's a hunting rifle , how many 4 shot groups do you get on a deer?
I'm wondering about forearm pressure due to barrel heat and placement of the front bag/lack of free floating in the forend of the rifle could be causing the shots to string. Maybe having your front bag placed closer to if not directly under the action would alleviate some of the stress and have less of a tendency to string your shots as the barrel heats up
Just my opinion but you will not have that front and rear bag with you when in the field., either. I have seen my groups shrink considerably when I switched over to either holding the fore end or placing my offhand on the scope tube when shooting the harder recoiling rifles from the bench. It’s a little different to get used to but worth the effort in my experience. I’d also bring that front rest back so as to not put so much pressure on the non free floating fore end. Again just another opinion. Good luck
Ruger Number 1 is just another designation for "Boat Anchor." Buy a Tikka T3x Lite 308 in any configuration and you'll shoot 1/2 inch groups straight out of the box. End Of story with no screwin' around.
Mark, I don't ever expect this one to be a tack driver as is but I think it will shoot decent if I can get rid of all of the variation in velocity? And we'll know for sure next time I get to the range and try the 4064 powder again.
What is an acceptable standard deviation for velocity when load developing a load? It seem to my experience with Six Sigma, eliminating the variation in velocity should be eliminated, then you can tackle the barrel. Second question why are you worried about the group size once the barrel warms up? I was always told to keep the barrel cold during sighting in. (This is another variation to be eliminated.) That way while you're out hunting in the fall, you are confident your first shot is gonna hit. You don't worry about a follow-up, up here in the Adirondack mountains we don't get a second shot. I appreciate your knowledge and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Watchhawk, the acceptable standard devotion mainly deepens the use for the rifle. The guys shoot long range competition are fanatics about having low SD's but that's because small changes in velocity really show up at 1000 yards. For me, I like to see SD;s under 10. And normally I don't worry that much about SD's for shorter range rifles. I'm just really focusing on them with this rifle because velocity changes are making such a big difference in the point of impact. As for the barrel, several people have rightly commented that the cold bore shot is all that really matters. But most rifles will still shoot well after 3, 4, or 5 shots once we find a load that rifle likes. And we usually just get one shot here as well, but I have a lot more confidence in a rifle when it will shoot well with 3 to 5 shots. I don't have to worry about that rifle being finicky or fussy and if it will shoot well with 3 to 5 shots then I know it's always going to shoot well. But if it starts spraying bullets after the first shot then I know something is causing that and I'm not going to be satisfied until I figure out what.
Hey Tom you keep talking about the bore size. Slut the bore to find out what it is, then maybe try some lead bullets that are the right diameter. See if that helps
Slug the barrel and see what you have for diameter and go from there. that would help immensely in knowing that information. Your bore may really be out of spec and might be covered under warranty. Just my thoughts.
Easttexan, I just did that and that's it's own interesting story that I'll be explaining in the next video. Short version is the barrel is not out of spec, but the spec itself is for the grove diameter to be oversize.
Tom, brother and I have had excellent results with powder coated bullets. You might try powdercoating some of the 312 hornadys to bring the od up. Good luck I would sure give it a try
I hunt with the .303 alot, slugging the barrel and confirming the diameter is mandatory. How tf did that gun make it out of the factory with an oversized barrel? .311 is standard issue.
This is gonna sound stupid but here goes. I'm a flinch monster. Ive tried everything to cushion recoil and I'm not shooting anything too big. Try a folded up knit stocking hat.
Jared, that doesn't sound stupid. I used to carry a cushion with me turkey hunting for an old single shot 12 ga with a 36 barrel. That thing kicked like and absolute mule with 3in magnums! But thankfully this one isn't anywhere near that bad!
It looks like the bullets are starting to tumble as the barrel heats up......those holes should be perfectly round at that distance. That's a lot of trouble for a rifle at that price point.
I'll have to go back and look at the holes. And keep in mind that bottom target on the thumbnail that I showed in the video for the cold bore shots is actually 2 bullet holes. But I'll look at the rest of them.
First time I picked up a #1, found the forend a bit loose. After reading many comments I think the forend is a common issue with this rifle. Looking at your range video's, I'm wondering if your rear bag is allowing the stock to drop and the muzzle to rise. Are you pinching the ears or setting the stock down?
Warren, I'm pinching the ears but I think that muzzle is going to rise no matter what? Most of the weight is in what little action there is and it's pretty light on the front end and it really wants to jump up.
HW, I absolutely do love the challenge and what I learn along the way. I started shooting and hunting with a Lee Enfield in 303 when I was 16 years old and because of this rifle I have learned more about the 303 cartridge in the last couple of weeks than I learned in the previous 30 plus years.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Truth be told, I have to admit I've done some of what you're doing, I just think I give up more easily than you do. In fact, the thing I went through most like what you're in the middle of was with a Savage 99A .308, which in some ways is not a lot different from your Ruger #1. It has a 1-12 twist, so I was pretty much limited to 150 grain bullets, but the way I finally got it to shoot kinda-sorta OK had nothing to do with bullets or powder or velocity. Turns out, I learned from some Internet lore that some folks improved their 99 accuracy by more or less shock mounting their forearm, by putting a small rubber o-ring between the forearm and the stud that is welded to the barrel that accepts the forearm screw. That took it (grouping and accuracy wise) from completely frustrating to kind of acceptable. I suspect you may find a similar thing with your rifle. I wish you the best.
Dumb question, but could the sling ring on the front of the barrel be screwing with the harmonics of the barrel. As the barrel heats up could that ring affect accuracy etc.?
for a bullet to jump 3 inches on the second shot it isn't heat its harmonics try loosing the barrel band. no gun gets that hot that fast! it also looks like when it hits a certen temp it comes back down almost half way.
Clinton, it's funny you mention that because I just slugged the barrel and I could feel the bore tighten up at the band for the sling swivel and I was wondering if that's part of the problem?
A good while ago, with another rifle, you talked about copper building up in the bore toward the muzzle indicated gas going by the bullet. Do you see any in this rifle's bore?
John, I haven't seen that with this rifle. But I have just learned a few things about the spec on 303 barrels that might explain some of it that I'll get into in the next video. It's interesting stuff!
Leon, I'm guessing you're right on the weight? I haven't weighed it but I think it's more the weight distribution that makes it feel so light? All of the weight is in the backend in the action, what little there is, and rear stock. And I think that's why it wants to jump so much on the front?
I can't remember who that notch was named after but it was a gun designer from way back that designed African rifles and he put that notch on his rifles so that they could be tied in place with rope on a vertical gun rack on trucks (or maybe wagons?) for safaris.
John, haven't tried changing primers with this one because it seems like other things are going on? But it's funny you say that because I'm also working on the 1903a3 in 30-06 and changing primers on it made a world of difference.
My grandpa's Lee Enfield shoots better than that... A pricey Ruger No 1 should not have these issues. If Ruger ran their company like Leupold does, you would be sending it back and have a rifle worth the money you paid... That is ridiculous.
Few companies stand by their products like Ruger. In fact their customer service is near legendary. I think Tom is enjoying the process of figuring it out and dialing it in but I guarantee you if he sent it to Ruger he would get excellent results.
@@txhuntsman hmmm. good to know. I have a tang M77 since 1986 as my main gun and love Rugers actually. I did not know their customer service in situations like this was as you say though.
I can't say that I have. If I recall they used to wrap some bullets with paper when they seated them in the case in the black powder days but I never knew why. I would guess to get a good seal like with a patch for a ball with a muzzle loader?
I sure am. I always measure every charge for load testing. And the first time I saw these changes in velocities was questioning the powder charges myself, but they're right.
Is there any thoughts on falling block/lever actions 2 piece stocks vs bolt guns single piece stocks. It seems there is some inherent problems with a two-piece stock where accuracy is concerned? You never see a two-piece stock four competition shooting or am I mistaken
Mr. Selby, " The real gunsmith " , has a video where he discusses the Ruger number one fore end causing problems because of how it is attached to the hanger. The bolt is angled at 45 degrees to the bore and puts a lot of pressure against the barrel at the front of the fore end. One more possible variable to throw out there. I really enjoy following you as you work to get the best from these beautiful firearms.
If i remember correctly, it was a commonplace in the late seventies and earlier eighties that the Number 1, especially with the Henry fore end, have a pressure versus barrel problem. The solution was supposed to be drilling a hole and filling an 8/40 set screw to put positive pressure between the fore end and the barrel. I did not own a Ruger 1 then so I never tried it. But some good people - including Ross Seifried - says it was crucial to accuracy in this rifle. I tend to believe it.
Glad I seen your comment before I typed mine saying the exact same thing! I love no.1’s I’ve always wanted one but the more I’ve learned about them in regards to accuracy I don’t know if I want that stress in my life! I’m a serious hand loader who may or may not obsess over tiny groups so the no.1’s are like that pretty girl I know is too much trouble!
I remember that one. It might be worth Tom's time to go give it a watch.
I was going to make the same comment re The Real Gunsmith but you beat me to it.
Hey Tom, I found your channel because I'm Canadian and my dad had a bunch of milsurp Lee Enfields when I was a kid. Anyway I find these videos really interesting because a lot of channels tend to show successes and not the troubleshooting that is often required to get there.
If all else fails Tom…you can use it to stake up yer tomato plants…..LOL
I’m 61 years old. I’ve been watching your hand loading videos for a few years now. I’m not a computer wise person. So that being said, I’ve figured out finally how to subscribe and text a comment. I love your videos and have learned a lot from your experience with reloading and troubleshooting your rifles. I watch many of them time and time again when I need refreshed on what to do. Keep it up. And like you say! God Bless!
Doing the same tests on a #1 in 7x57. Free floated the barrel off the forend and she's good for about 6 rounds before barrel heat starts getting significant. Thanks for the info!
I had a hard time deciding between the No1 in 303 and 7x57. I eventually chose the 303 just because there really aren't any other choices for 303 but there are a few other choices for 7x57. But that No1 in 7x57 is one sweet rifle! Congrats on yours.
I've neve ever seen a number 1 shoot good groups at the range but seen some awesome hunting successes with them.
You might want to check out Sniper 101 videos, regardless copper equilibrium. The message conveyed in those videos is that snipers notice that starting with a brand new barrel, or a barrel that is subject to cleaning that takes out copper fouling typically have inconsistent velocities. Their claim is that shooting while watching velocities closely, cooper will be deposited in any small inconsistency in the barrel, which restricts the barrel more. Eventually copper jacket bullets will take out excessive copper fouling and replace it with new copper fouling and velocities will stabilize. Snipers call this copper equilibrium. At that point velocities will plateau or increase at a minimal rate for hundreds of shots allowing snipers one shot, one kill. Once accuracy starts to erode, snipers clean their barrels “down to metal” and start all over building back up to copper equilibrium conditions. Typically achieving copper equalibrium takes 50 shots, or less.
I tested the copper equilibrium theory on a brand new Krieger barrel. The theory of copper equalibrium proved to be true. Standard deviation 6 fps, and .69” five shot groups consistently. Since I no longer shoot competitively, my rifles are strictly hunting rifles, therefore, for me hundreds of shots that eventually cause accuracy erosion will probably never happen.
East test is to load up some inexpensive copper jacketed bullets and go shoot your gun 50 times over a chronograph without cleaning it and see if your velocities become stable. If that works, another concern that I would have is that barrel band messing with the harmonics of your barrel. Every detail matters with accuracy, obviously.
I think I’ll give this a go, I too have a Ruger number 1 in 303 and I’m having the same issues as Tom.
Tom… as a shooter for around 50 yrs and having owned 6 different Ruger number ones in the sporter and varmint models… I’ve never owned one with minute of angle accuracy…Usually a 1 1/2 inch group at 100 yds was the best I could expect..Same deal 1st shot or two..then the rifles would string the group… My best number one was a number one B in 22 250 and once in a while I could get a group under a inch but it was mainly a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 shooter.. Different articles I’ve read over the yrs ..is the front stock hanger contributed to the group changing from the barrel heating..I’ve read there is a remedy to partly correct the problem… but that was a long time ago when I saw the article so I can’t remember what shooting magazine I saw it in….I was doing a lot of load testing with these rifles to get them to shoot a inch group..but finally came to the conclusion that the rifle design was behind the mediocre groups.. But anyway you look at it ..they’re beautiful rifles with a classic design..just not the shooters as many of our bolt rifles are…My Remington 700s..DuPont made rifles and Savage 110 series rifles will shoot lights out..without a ton of load development…same with my CZ 527s..
Tom.. I am looking forward to you doing more research and range work to get your number one to shoot.. good luck there and looking forward to more videos on this rifle..
I love No 1's. Just beautiful rifles. Little bit of a mystery getting this one locked in but once you get her dialed in she will be a tack driver.
I had two Tikka rifles that were doing this. Someone had me check the free float of the barrel. Both of them didn’t pass the test. So I took off the stock and corrected the problem. That turned out to be the answer to my problem.
I know this doesn't address the velocity, but the rise after the cold bore shot. Good luck.
I might try spitzer and flat base bullets over Boatail bullets if you haven’t tried them and round nose flat base bullets. It is a proven problem with boat tail bullets sometimes show gasses passing out the muzzle prior to the bullet exiting the bore. In turn causing less accurate results. Reducing velocity may also be a direction to try too. If the problem continues, I would take that short barrel off and use it for an anchor. It would cost less in bullets powder and primers for new a barrel than fighting with one that will not shoot to your satisfaction. A nice 26-inch stainless number 5 contour Douglas barrel will shoot with less recoil and higher velocities, it worked for me once.🤔👍
LOL, your right about it being cheaper! And all of these bullets were flat base.
'Snappy'. Yep. I had a Ruger Number 3 in .45-70. The No. 3 is lighter than the No 1. By quite a bit. It didn't take long before I put the No. 3 away because I didn't like the recoil. By the way, I wasn't too recoil sensitive. I regularly hunted with a Sako Finnbear in .338 Win mag. I have also owned two rifles in .458 Win Mag and one in .416 Remington.
I didn't get rid of the No 3. Instead I rebarrelled it to a lighter cartridge and had a 27 inch medium weight barrel nstalled. That added about two lbs to the weight of the rifle and made it something I could use.
If you have an oversized bore they do make 175gr J bore bullets that are .318 diameter. Brownells has them and a few other online retailers. Also Ron Spomer had a Dakota 10 similar to the ruger #1 alot of his problems went away after moving the forearm on the rest. Like alot of others that mentioned the forearm pressure. Also you could do a cast bullet and paper patch it. I believe I've already said that before. Anyway I always like the looks of the #1 but I don't need more problems in life. Good luck with it.
Jason, I think you'll find the next video pretty interesting. The bore is oversize but it turns out that's the spec for 303. Who would have guessed?
I recall Ron mentioning that on forend position n bags
If it shot good with factory and you've changed bullets and powder I'd start looking at the brass or more importantly the primers. Maybe the primers are creating inconsistent ignition leading to the vertical
I only have experience with two No 1's,one is my brother has a No.1 Sporter in 30/06 with a 22in barrel,making it a really short rifle,and I had a 1B in 300 Winchester with a 26in barrel.We both found good loads that our rifles like in short order. Maybe we got lucky,who knows.But we also had loads that just would not shoot.One thing I learned,or heard,was that NO 1's are notorious for being finicky,but also that part of that has to do with the front forearm screw.Adding or releasing tension can make a world of difference.But I don't believe that you are to that point yet because your velocities are all over the place.Once you can get the velocity consistent,then that may be something to try,adjusting the screw that is.But if your bore is oversized,there is not much more you can do.I feel for you in this because it's a sweet little rifle and would be great for what you want it for,but if it won't shoot,then you have decisions to make.Wishing you luck and I'll keep watching to see what happens.Enjoy your videos,keep up the good work.
IDK if you notice but the 150 grain bullet holes where ragged but the 175 grain bullets where perfect bullet holes
Those crazy target shooters say vertical stringing means it needs more powder lol. Love the 303 british hope she quits being sassy .
It's a cold bore shooter not a bench rest gun i have a Thompson the first two shots are beside each other the third shot is an inch higher fourth another inch higher an continues so all the shots i take on a deer is cold bore im fine with that
Man oh Man this was good! So much to learn through your trials and errors, and successes too. As the proud owner of a Ruger No 1 in .308, which also does have a snappy temper that can pester on occasion, I find that the one shot rifle at least is good on the first shot. I got a deer this year with a shot that was within the silver dollar of where I was shooting. My paper series tend to show an erratic second shot with the follow on shots creeping back toward the zero. All of what you do with the .303 is germane to my experience. Thank you for such hands-on tips and neat lessons. I love, love your show.
Enjoying this video series. I too have just gotten a Ruger No1 in 303 and I’m having exactly the same issues as you. Never in my 40 years of reloading have I had such a hard time finding a load that shoots well. But that’s what I enjoy about reloading.
Where did you fine one
@@joeparker7508 , I’m in Australia and occasionally they come up for sale, my son purchased this one for me as I have always wanted one.
Serious question. Why the focus on groups in a hunting rifle? The most important shot in a hunting rifle is the cold bore shot. The follow up is because the first time one missed… why are groups important? If the hunter misses, it’s very very unlikely that the same spot is the target.
I agree on the point about cold bore shot being most important. I would add that a CLEAN cold bore shot is most important. Group size is about confidence for me. If I know my rifle/ammo combo is accurate, I go into the woods with full confidence in it.
HI Tom, check into using a set screw in the fore end hanger. It's improved the accuracy in 4 different number 1s I've owned over the years. I was shown this back in the 80s by a ruger nut and it works. Might not solve all the issues you're having but will eliminate some of the stringing I'd bet. I'm Canadian and grew up with the 303 love that cartridge.
Hi Tom. I was out at the range today with one of my Lee Enfields. I was getting frustrated when I realized a couple of shots of 00 buckshot would equate to what I just did with a whole box of factory ammo! Slight exageration but not entirely. I appreciate your calm and meticulous approach. I will be applying your ballistics detective skills when I go out next. BTW, I recently shot a Ruger no. 1 in .416 Rigby and my accuracy was good but I gonged myself in the eye with the scope. And greetings from Canada.
I have a Savage 99 (.308 W with 1-12" twist rate) that will stack 150gr Winchester Power Point white box ammo one on top of another @100yds ( sub MOA with an occasional flier) it won't however, shoot Hornady 150gr (Whitetail) ammo worth a damn (over 3 MOA at best)! So bullet construction and profile also matter, coupled with twist rate/velocity. Hornady isn't the only ammo that shoots lousy, it just happens to be the brand you are testing with but, I hope my experience helps explain some of the issues/factors with what you are up against.
Boy Tom, a lot of work going into this one. I'm hoping that it all works out in the end. I'm looking forward tot he next one.
Hello Tom. First of all I love your videos! As per others, I have always heard that Ruger single shots do have issues with forearm (hangers?). The wide variations in velocities is a definite red flag too. I have shot handloaded enfields for over 30 years and agree that you should slug the barrel. I have gotten amazing accuracy with cast bullets, lately powder coated, sizing to .315 which is .001 over my bore diameter. Every rifle is an adventure, and this one is giving you a run for your money! Best wishes!
Ruger #1's have been known to have this kind of issue. Some guys are willing to admit it, and others claim they have never seen it. The ones I've seen, have all been prone to stringing shots, as the barrel heats up. Like someone else said, it's probably the forend hanger and pressure on the barrel. There have been some articles on this as well. There are also some pieces that go into detail about how to set up the barrel to forend to minimize this stringing. Good luck with your rifle. Obviously it has a known issue, that is common to this rifle type. I suggest doing an internet search, and finding out how you can fix this ailing rifle.
Lots of solutions to #1 stringing vertically. Hicks Acurizer is a common solution as are several mods to apply tension between the forend and the hanger. Might want to google a few of those and try a quick andcdirry adjustment to see if it makes a change.
.
I believe Ruger uses their own hammer-forged barrels. You might want to contact the Ruger service department and explain the problem to them. I would think they would like to know about your rifle’s issue. I would expect spending a premium price for a premium rifle means it should perform at a premium level.👍😐
Another great report Tom, when it comes to that .303" you're like a dog with a bone. Keep at it we all need to know what it will take to get it to shoot. Who knows, maybe a paper patch on those Hornady bullets.
I’d say you’re dealing with the infamous number 1 forearm hanger. Make a spacer to try and float the barrel and I bet that rifle would start coming into its own. Number ones can be fussy mistresses with forearm design.
When you get this figured out. I got a browning a bolt 7 mag for you next.
Hi Tom.That barrel may have real potential,going by first shots in each group.SAAMI specs are up to .314".I just got a new match barrel at .314" and use Hornady,Speer and Sierra.They all shoot well.Military barrels can have huge differences in dimensions,from .310" up to .315" or more.I measured a mk6 215gr roundnose bullet from 1916 at .310" diameter.Keep on it,it will be interesting to find the problem.
SD, I was just learning that about the spec actually being .314 for 303 and I just slugged this bore and it's .314 which turns out that's exactly what it's suppose to be. I also just finished filming the next video and I said there exactly what you just said about 303's shooting all of the different size bullets accurately for all of these decades so it must not be an issue. I have to say I have learned a lot about 303's with this rifle. And I was thinking the same thing about this rifle having some potential with those first three cold bore shots. I've just got to find the right load for this rifle and get rid of those wild swings in velocity.
Hello Tom have you tried a Hicks Accurizer. I have an older No.1-A in 7x57. Very long throat and I believe a wilson barrel. I shoot 150gr. TSX seated out hanging on by its toenails. Accacy was good , but installed the Hicks Accurizer and point of aim stays consistent. Good luck.
Enfield 303 could be . 303" over lands and a bore of up to 0.314" at the breech and up to 0.316 at the muzzle.
Tom, send it back to ruger to change barrel. 😊😊😊
I use round nose in some of my 06s they still shoot 300yds + a little and group tight a whole lot of rifling contact with a round nose. Try some Rem corelokts 180s I believe for 303.
They clover leaf group.
Slower burning powders actually make a higher felt recoiled than the faster burning powders. So look for faster burning powders. Get a decelerator for it, and it will help ur shoulder and on how the rifle flairs.
I enjoy your videos and the honesty of your commentary. Hawk makes a 150 grain bullet that measures .316. That might be worth a shot. BTW, are you planning to get back to another work in progress, your M70 SG Featherweight 7x57? I'm really interested in that one. Thanks again.
I am absolutely planning on getting back to the 7x57. I just don't know when I'm going to be able to? LOL
😂
If your first "cold barrel" shot is spot on every time, then maybe, for this rifle, you're good.
Every first hunting shot is a cold barrel shot.
But I understand the chasing of perfection. I do it myself.
Ruger is notorious for using the incorrect bore diameter... on purpose! They use .308" barrels on the Mini-30 when 99% of your 7.62X39 ammo is .310".
My favorite 303 projectile is the 180 grain, Remington round nose. Works in 7.62X54R, 7.7X58 & 303. But, might be too slender for your Ruger's bore. 🤠
Don, I actually have a few Remington 180's but I was worried about them being .310 so I haven't tried them. But I might try them before this is over. And that would explain why the Remington 180 factory ammo always had higher velocities than other 180's.
And in Ruger's defense on this one, they didn't make the bore over size. It turns out the spec on 303 is for it to be oversize. And I'll get into all of that next week.
I’ve had better results with bullets with a longer driving band surface (heavy flat base) out of old surplus rifles with a lot of erosion.
Have a 1917 Enfield .30-06, and the bore slugs .311” dia. Tried a variety of .311 bullets, and it was 180 gr flat base round nose Speers that began to shoot like my 03s and 03A3.
4895 sir give it try.. Prefer IMR but H is good as well.
Hi Tom . Love your channel especially the .303 stuff .
Just a thought , have you measured the Hornady bullets .?
I just measured some .312 Hornady 174 gr Interlocks and they were either .311 or .3115.
Haven't found a .312 yet in that box .
Speer 180gr Hot Cor are all bang on the money at .311 .
Anyways , I'll let you get back to work .
All the best 👍.
You have the patience of Job
In case you hit on something.Grafs n Sons had at one time some SSTs for 303 n 7.7 no ideal now
Tom, Aren't you chasing two things at once? If your cold bore shots all hit in the same place, that's your hunting shot and no more work needs to be done. If you want to target shoot groups with multiple shots, then the vertical climb and other flyers need to be addressed; but those additional target group shots are not hunting shots.
This is the first time I've seen your channel and you do a good job.
You have good accuracy on first shots. It's a hunting rifle , how many 4 shot groups do you get on a deer?
They say only accurate rifles are interesting. In my opinion making a marginally accurate rifle more accurate is the most interesting.
I'm wondering about forearm pressure due to barrel heat and placement of the front bag/lack of free floating in the forend of the rifle could be causing the shots to string. Maybe having your front bag placed closer to if not directly under the action would alleviate some of the stress and have less of a tendency to string your shots as the barrel heats up
Just my opinion but you will not have that front and rear bag with you when in the field., either. I have seen my groups shrink considerably when I switched over to either holding the fore end or placing my offhand on the scope tube when shooting the harder recoiling rifles from the bench. It’s a little different to get used to but worth the effort in my experience. I’d also bring that front rest back so as to not put so much pressure on the non free floating fore end. Again just another opinion.
Good luck
That sure seems to be a finicky booger,i don’t enjoy one that temperamental,good luck Tom🤙
TTT, it absolutely is temperamental!
I was going to say its time to slug the bore but you covered that at 25:00
H4895 has a good reputation in reduced loads along with lighter bullets 150 gr 312 dia bullets also 125 gr pro hunters 311 dia
Yea, if there's loads for H4895, u can load down to 60 percent, their data says. And it's supposed to build pressure equally!.
Float forend problem solved. I have had 2 no.1 all shot just like this. Floated and they shot well.
I would be looking seriously at bedding , to me it would appear that there is just a bit of excess upward pressure at the front of the fore end
Ruger Number 1 is just another designation for "Boat Anchor." Buy a Tikka T3x Lite 308 in any configuration and you'll shoot 1/2 inch groups straight out of the box. End Of story with no screwin' around.
My experience with Ruger #1 rifles has taught me that the fore end must be glass bedded in order to obtain decent groups. IMHO
Mark, I don't ever expect this one to be a tack driver as is but I think it will shoot decent if I can get rid of all of the variation in velocity? And we'll know for sure next time I get to the range and try the 4064 powder again.
Could you powder coat your .312 bullets and tighten them up to the bore
Nice work. I wonder how that ruger would shoot nasty old military loads from England or Canada.
What is an acceptable standard deviation for velocity when load developing a load? It seem to my experience with Six Sigma, eliminating the variation in velocity should be eliminated, then you can tackle the barrel.
Second question why are you worried about the group size once the barrel warms up? I was always told to keep the barrel cold during sighting in. (This is another variation to be eliminated.) That way while you're out hunting in the fall, you are confident your first shot is gonna hit. You don't worry about a follow-up, up here in the Adirondack mountains we don't get a second shot.
I appreciate your knowledge and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Watchhawk, the acceptable standard devotion mainly deepens the use for the rifle. The guys shoot long range competition are fanatics about having low SD's but that's because small changes in velocity really show up at 1000 yards. For me, I like to see SD;s under 10. And normally I don't worry that much about SD's for shorter range rifles. I'm just really focusing on them with this rifle because velocity changes are making such a big difference in the point of impact.
As for the barrel, several people have rightly commented that the cold bore shot is all that really matters. But most rifles will still shoot well after 3, 4, or 5 shots once we find a load that rifle likes. And we usually just get one shot here as well, but I have a lot more confidence in a rifle when it will shoot well with 3 to 5 shots. I don't have to worry about that rifle being finicky or fussy and if it will shoot well with 3 to 5 shots then I know it's always going to shoot well. But if it starts spraying bullets after the first shot then I know something is causing that and I'm not going to be satisfied until I figure out what.
Seems you got your hands full on this one, Tom.
Try rem primers , they seem to work better for me with the powders your useing
James, I can't remember the last time I saw Remington or Winchester large rifle primers. But I will definitely keep that in mind for the future.
You would think for a high dollar gun it would be tighter barrel tolerance/quality
Is your Ruger No. 1 worth all your efforts to get it to shoot accurately? Just asking considering all your other rifles and rifles yet to purchase.
Hey Tom you keep talking about the bore size.
Slut the bore to find out what it is, then maybe try some lead bullets that are the right diameter. See if that helps
Nice vidio!
Slug the barrel and see what you have for diameter and go from there. that would help immensely in knowing that information. Your bore may really be out of spec and might be covered under warranty. Just my thoughts.
Easttexan, I just did that and that's it's own interesting story that I'll be explaining in the next video. Short version is the barrel is not out of spec, but the spec itself is for the grove diameter to be oversize.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving interesting !!
Tom, brother and I have had excellent results with powder coated bullets. You might try powdercoating some of the 312 hornadys to bring the od up. Good luck I would sure give it a try
I hunt with the .303 alot, slugging the barrel and confirming the diameter is mandatory. How tf did that gun make it out of the factory with an oversized barrel? .311 is standard issue.
You have made your 1 into a good brush gun 100 or less
This is gonna sound stupid but here goes. I'm a flinch monster. Ive tried everything to cushion recoil and I'm not shooting anything too big. Try a folded up knit stocking hat.
Jared, that doesn't sound stupid. I used to carry a cushion with me turkey hunting for an old single shot 12 ga with a 36 barrel. That thing kicked like and absolute mule with 3in magnums! But thankfully this one isn't anywhere near that bad!
Bore scope time maybe on the barrel.
It looks like the bullets are starting to tumble as the barrel heats up......those holes should be perfectly round at that distance. That's a lot of trouble for a rifle at that price point.
I'll have to go back and look at the holes. And keep in mind that bottom target on the thumbnail that I showed in the video for the cold bore shots is actually 2 bullet holes. But I'll look at the rest of them.
First time I picked up a #1, found the forend a bit loose. After reading many comments I think the forend is a common issue with this rifle.
Looking at your range video's, I'm wondering if your rear bag is allowing the stock to drop and the muzzle to rise. Are you pinching the ears or setting the stock down?
Warren, I'm pinching the ears but I think that muzzle is going to rise no matter what? Most of the weight is in what little action there is and it's pretty light on the front end and it really wants to jump up.
Tom,
Only mentioned this because several shots had significant muzzle rise and perhaps it would reduce that tendency.
EABCO, Hicks Accurizer,..
Tom, you have waaaayy more patience than I do. Or maybe you just like a challenge.
HW, I absolutely do love the challenge and what I learn along the way. I started shooting and hunting with a Lee Enfield in 303 when I was 16 years old and because of this rifle I have learned more about the 303 cartridge in the last couple of weeks than I learned in the previous 30 plus years.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Truth be told, I have to admit I've done some of what you're doing, I just think I give up more easily than you do. In fact, the thing I went through most like what you're in the middle of was with a Savage 99A .308, which in some ways is not a lot different from your Ruger #1. It has a 1-12 twist, so I was pretty much limited to 150 grain bullets, but the way I finally got it to shoot kinda-sorta OK had nothing to do with bullets or powder or velocity. Turns out, I learned from some Internet lore that some folks improved their 99 accuracy by more or less shock mounting their forearm, by putting a small rubber o-ring between the forearm and the stud that is welded to the barrel that accepts the forearm screw. That took it (grouping and accuracy wise) from completely frustrating to kind of acceptable. I suspect you may find a similar thing with your rifle. I wish you the best.
WHY did RUGER overbore the barrel??
That makes no sense.
Dumb question, but could the sling ring on the front of the barrel be screwing with the harmonics of the barrel. As the barrel heats up could that ring affect accuracy etc.?
Is that supposed to be a rifle or a shotgun? I see why they don't make them any more.
for a bullet to jump 3 inches on the second shot it isn't heat its harmonics try loosing the barrel band. no gun gets that hot that fast! it also looks like when it hits a certen temp it comes back down almost half way.
Maybe try some 35 Whelen bullets lol
Tom , REMOVE that Barrel band! I'm speaking from my personal experiences. What can it hurt to see if your groups improve or stay the same.
Clinton, it's funny you mention that because I just slugged the barrel and I could feel the bore tighten up at the band for the sling swivel and I was wondering if that's part of the problem?
A good while ago, with another rifle, you talked about copper building up in the bore toward the muzzle indicated gas going by the bullet. Do you see any in this rifle's bore?
John, I haven't seen that with this rifle. But I have just learned a few things about the spec on 303 barrels that might explain some of it that I'll get into in the next video. It's interesting stuff!
Too much variation…..the barrel bore seems suspect. Who wants a gun that needs a super specific ammo recipe?
Try h4895 it will be worth your time hang in there Tom
Leon, I think the IMR 4064 is going to do what I need, but I'll sure pick up a pound of 4895 next time I order some powder.
Tom that no 1 should weigh 7.75 to 8 lbs with scope and sling and loaded. Have you weighed this gun?
Leon, I'm guessing you're right on the weight? I haven't weighed it but I think it's more the weight distribution that makes it feel so light? All of the weight is in the backend in the action, what little there is, and rear stock. And I think that's why it wants to jump so much on the front?
Agreed my model 70 featherweight is kind of like that 8 lbs scoped and loaded but light out front.
How much time between shots
The van is still hiding?
I'd send you a couple hundred if I knew where
Jump distance?
Can someone tell me why the #1 Forends have that notch cut in them?
I can't remember who that notch was named after but it was a gun designer from way back that designed African rifles and he put that notch on his rifles so that they could be tied in place with rope on a vertical gun rack on trucks (or maybe wagons?) for safaris.
Alexander Henry????
Have you thought of trying a different primer??
John, haven't tried changing primers with this one because it seems like other things are going on? But it's funny you say that because I'm also working on the 1903a3 in 30-06 and changing primers on it made a world of difference.
My grandpa's Lee Enfield shoots better than that... A pricey Ruger No 1 should not have these issues. If Ruger ran their company like Leupold does, you would be sending it back and have a rifle worth the money you paid... That is ridiculous.
Few companies stand by their products like Ruger. In fact their customer service is near legendary. I think Tom is enjoying the process of figuring it out and dialing it in but I guarantee you if he sent it to Ruger he would get excellent results.
And that’s the reason I only buy Leupold when buying new scopes!
@@txhuntsman hmmm. good to know. I have a tang M77 since 1986 as my main gun and love Rugers actually. I did not know their customer service in situations like this was as you say though.
Have you heard about paper patch?
I can't say that I have. If I recall they used to wrap some bullets with paper when they seated them in the case in the black powder days but I never knew why. I would guess to get a good seal like with a patch for a ball with a muzzle loader?
I’m going to say you got a piss poor shooter.
Me or the rifle?
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving rifle
Your measuring each powder throw?
I sure am. I always measure every charge for load testing. And the first time I saw these changes in velocities was questioning the powder charges myself, but they're right.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving new scales maybe?
3 clicks left 12 clicks up clean the gun and lets get on with it LOL. the gun is telling you what it wants you aint listening
Is there any thoughts on falling block/lever actions 2 piece stocks vs bolt guns single piece stocks. It seems there is some inherent problems with a two-piece stock where accuracy is concerned? You never see a two-piece stock four competition shooting or am I mistaken