As an experienced brickie. Over 30 years experience his trying to do a tidy job but is way to slow first of all should be working say half a sq metre at a time complete all perp ends first .. Use a pointing trowel to fill wider. Joints bigger than 10mm press mortar well to the back of the joint (to avoid a void between old and new,mortar. I counted 9 swipes at filling one perp end this is fees able on price jobs.one to. 3swipes maximum, his also over working the joints in the deeper joints better to leave a couple . Minutes for the moisture to be absorbed before going over it. When pointing looking to complete a metre per hour . Did he dampen the wall properly. On an exposed elevation such as that he wood be better of using a weather struck joint as this. Allows water to run of the wall easier,however not a bad effort.
Thanks for the tips, I had a small area to re-point, and your tips about keeping the mortar the same height as the tool was critical to me being able to do it without creating a mess!
Dude! Beautiful job Nice and clean. I hope people watching realize there is a lot more to this. Been doing this myself for about 6 years ,people don't realize how hard it is to keep it clean or it looks like crap when it dries. Nobody ever shows in ANY of the videos how well there mortar matched after it was all dry. Mortar matching is an art in itself .
I think a 2-1 mix is smart for this scenario instead of 3-1. But why Portland, here in Canada we use portland mostly for concrete, Type S for masonry and Type N for clay brick like in your video. Also do you ever put Acrilic Resin Bond (milk) in your mix, why or why not. Great vid, only guy on RUclips who is professional at it. I assume a job like that is Time and Material? - How would you accurately estimate that, right? We can always use skilled guys like you in Toronto if you ever are looking for a change of scenery
Fantastic video thanks very much. I've watched loads of UK pointing videos and no one takes as much care as you. I'm just re pointing my garage and will follow your tips. Lovely to see someone take so much pride. 👍
That’s because they’re used to working to a price of about £30/m2 and you have to work fast to make any wonga. I’m guessing the video is work being done by the hour, as the finish has been deemed to be all important. Plus pointing in the UK use much less stiff mortar mixes, typically 1 part cement, 1 part lime, to 6 parts sand, which is easier to work with. The 1:2 cement sand mix being used in the video would be far too stiff for the usual facing brick used in the UK.
@@Benzknees But the videos are being specifically made for the DIY person as any pro would would already know what to do and is not paid anything as they are doing it for themselves 😉
You keep working hard, and continue taking pride in and putting your all in what you do. It will not go unnoticed. I guarantee it. And don't be afraid to ask for compensation for what you know your worth. Take care man, God bless you...
See that's what I'm talking about! Looking and looking, and then I come across this. I'm thinking why is everyone getting the mortar on the bricks and messing it all up ugly? Then I see this video. Ok, this guy's a professional! He's doing a historical building. That says it all. No mess on the bricks, clean work! Thanks for sharing the right way man! Very nice job. Before I saw your video I was thinking of trying a cake frosting mix bag to squeeze in the mortar, then point, on same thing on my house. Is this something you ever do or no? Thanks a lot.
"They say high work ain't eye work but...I'm standing right here. And I can see it." - this quote sums up this guy's integrity nicely. Shame that his ethic is getting harder to come by.
I learned a some of hawk and pointing tool technique. Thanks for the pointers. My old house has soft brick, so I have to use lime mortar. Very little if any Portland can be used. If I elect to use a bit of Portland, it has to be white Portland to match the original lime mortar.
Great work. I have done brickwork much the same way you have shown, with the exception I prefer using a longer tuck pointer with a handle to do bed joints, and similar tuck pointer to yours for the head joints. A lot of people seem to be critical of speed in repointing, but the reality is quality and neatness don't go hand in hand with speed. Sure time is money, but at the same time a bad masonry repoint ruins the look of brick. Older buildings deserve the best in care and quality. Nothings sadder to me than seeing a old building with grinder cut marks all over the bricks, sloppy mortar all over, and a overall lack of attention to detail.
Wow good for you sir.Nice to see there are still people taking pride in their work as opposed to just collecting a cheque. Have to say i would not have the steady hands 5 stories up. I do a little bit of tuckpointing but only on the ground.
Francis - I am going to attempt to do my own brick pointing. You mention Portland Mortar 2 to 1.... Is that 2 parts mortar and 1 part water? Also, what are all the tools needed to get the job done? I have to fill gaps and also replace a horrible job a previous contractor did. Thank you for your time!
in a place like that the only person to see his quality workmanship will be the next guy who point the bricks decades down the road and he will say "boy the person who pointed this sure did a good job"...i hope the next guy isn't a hack
I worked for a company out of MN that did restoration just like you.. honestly I think I enjoyed setting up the swingstages more than tuck pointing from one lol
Fuck that man I hate carrying weights around on a roof one job we had 250 50 pound weights we had to move around on top of a courthouse and all the laborers in the local hall were busy or at least that’s probably what they said so they didn’t have to hall weights around all night it was a night job to it sucked dick we had to carry our own shit around to many weights for that shit when we had to move 4 stages but each stage crew was moving there own at that point would have been nice with a few labors carrying the weights though we didn’t have enough man power most jobs are nice with swing stages but we were washing not Beauno
Good work. However i am surprised you are using Portland cement with bricks. I would have used lime which is more flexible and less hard to the bricks.
The guy is a fairy 😂 he would be gone before the first break, what a wally ! ……… I’ve had 40 yrs On the line , he would just about make it on the hod …… nah ! He’s not that good
Because all the pointers in the area always do a two-to-one and it lasts a long time I've seen fronts done 25 years ago with 2 2 1 I'll do 3 to 1 if I'm doing an inside wall
Portland is ordinary portland cement, 2 to 1 is 2x sand by ratio to 1 cement which is one hell of a strong mix, but he is high up and exposed, the sand im guessing is soft sand ( builders sand ) not grit sand (sharp sand) which would be used with lime nhl 3.5 or a 5 if high and exposed if pointing on a soft brick, like a victorian clamp brick, which was originally built using lime mortar, the mortar should always be softer than the brick ( sacraficial)
Hi thanks a lot I really appreciate it I get a lot of heat from people on this video for some reason. I was going slow because it’s a how to video to show people how to LOL
Hey nice work.... I have learned over the years u mist the joints the make a dry mix and just puah it off the hawk no joke its ten times faster with barley and mess... maybe way it a lui more for the head joints.... but im sure u have to use sure clean on it regaurdless right... historical society wants it perfect... good job mate.... must be good money also
Well then here’s what you do trying to teach somebody how to drive at 180 miles an hour. This is a how to video I can do 300 ft.² a day which is a 15 x 2 5 ft.²
Man, this looks like the right way to point. After watching this, you can't help but cringe at the embarrassing way most other videos on RUclips show brick pointing done (basically slop it on with a trowel and try and wipe it off a bit).
Francis, what do you think to the ‘hand injection bag method’ (bag like used with icing sugar). What is the mortar, is sand to Portland cement in a ratio of 5:1 ok for chimney, or is a stronger 3:1 better ? How deep should I remove old mortar from joint, eg 1/2 inch ?thanks for sharing.
so nice to see someone taking pride in what they do instead of just slapping it in. If you don't splat the face face of the brick you don't have to clean it afterwards. Very nice work sir, very neat.
What artistry! Francis a 2:1 mix seems excessive to me - is this because of a requirement with this specific job? As far as I understand that after a certain ratio (around 5:1) there is only a minimal increase in hardness when this ratio is strengthened (in this case 2:1) and minimal change in permeability (water resistance) or exposure to frost damage. Please enlighten me further. Also if you're mixing with such a low volume of sand in the mix doesn't the colour appear to have a more 'greeny brown' cement shade rather than the traditional and more 'historic' buff colour with the 5:1 or weaker mixes? Or are you adding any buff/beige colourant to the mix? or any other admixture? Again..., job well done my friend!!!
David Smuts 2:1 is stonger than any type s mortar used to build commercial brick buildings. 5:1 portland sand is not a proper mix either. 6:1:1 or 9:1:2 would be acceptable mixes. for example, 6 parts well graded mason sand, 1 part portland cement, 1 part type s hydrated lime. A 2:1 portland /sand ratio would damage a wall within months ,usually the first freeze/thaw. Also when dealing with lime built historic buildings, cement products should never be used.
Best video that I have seen on pointing. Excellent tips from someone who you can tell, takes great pride in his work. Thank you for posting this video.
This man cares about what he is doing. I expect he has created some very smart work with the attitude & approach he has towards his craft. Great to see.
ok still think its to strong there is no need ive been pointing for 30 years currently pointing 200 year old listed building in the city of london but enjoued watching
It took about 2 minutes to point of one brick. And without taking into account, remove the mortar, wash the wall and prepare the mortar. Simple maths: A wall 3 meters by 6 meters has approximately 900 bricks. 900 bricks multiplied by 2 minutes is 30 hours or almost 4 full working days!!! What employer would keep such an employee? What can he earn? Or is it just a hobby?
It looks like the old mortar was removed by hammer and chisel……. And not a grinder …..Was that the case ? ? And as you know your job came out awesome with no smearing on the vertical joints…….” Nothing on the brick “ great job
yes I heard that from a different guy but to each is own I do it this way because I like it and plus I do about 250 square feet a day but butterjoint about 150 square feet a day please post a video on how they do it in London I would like to see it thank you
I've been a union Tuckpointer in Chicago ILL for 33 years now & If I seen THAT'S ALL he has done in 10 mins? He would be FIRED!!!! LOL He's a time & material kind of worker ha? LMAO!!!
You got it, huge hawk and finish pointer eorking backwards screams self taught scab. $500 a day for an owner is a failed business. We make that in a day here in Chicago just in wages. Try 750 sq minimum to keep a job.
You ever move to Wisconsin, I have a job for you. I only want individuals who take pride in their work. This quality is more rare than you may believe. You are worth a descent wage. You should be proud of yourself. I need more people like you who I can trust and who reflect the pride I have in the company I have worked hard to create.
as a city and guild s time served brickie for over thirty years this is painful, not tuck pointing for one and that arch should be skipped, enjoy your enthusiasm tho, good luck
Moves horribly and unnecessarily slow. Its easy to move 10 times this speed while achieving even better quality. Unfortunately he probably doesn't know, or wasn't taught that a 2-1 mix will destroy this wall the bricks will soon start to spall and faces fall off because the mortar is way too hard. Mortar is meant to be sacrificial to the brick.
You have no idea what you're talkin about. These are iron spotted bricks and this is in Philadelphia Pennsylvania where the Historic Society is involved I've been doing fronts for over 20 years. Unless you have some video proof of you doing any better I'd like to see it.
Francis, if you did notice a bit of mortar say 12 to 24 hours later on a brick, how could you remove it? Would you use hot water and a stiff brush or something stronger like acid and water mixed at a specific ratio? Thanks!
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Actually one of the first video's I've seen someone not smear the bricks all over, and showing that neat work simply costs time. Thanks.
As an experienced brickie. Over 30 years experience his trying to do a tidy job but is way to slow first of all should be working say half a sq metre at a time complete all perp ends first .. Use a pointing trowel to fill wider. Joints bigger than 10mm press mortar well to the back of the joint (to avoid a void between old and new,mortar. I counted 9 swipes at filling one perp end this is fees able on price jobs.one to. 3swipes maximum, his also over working the joints in the deeper joints better to leave a couple . Minutes for the moisture to be absorbed before going over it. When pointing looking to complete a metre per hour . Did he dampen the wall properly.
On an exposed elevation such as that he wood be better of using a weather struck joint as this. Allows water to run of the wall easier,however not a bad effort.
Yes his pointing efforts look tedious, I too used a pointing trowel and if necessary a bucket handle to finish off , I preferred flush pointing 😊
Looks good for a DIY project were you aren't on the clock and have plenty of time. I agree, looks too slow for commercial work.
Thanks for the tips, I had a small area to re-point, and your tips about keeping the mortar the same height as the tool was critical to me being able to do it without creating a mess!
Just because you are above “ eye level” doesn’t mean you should skimp on the finish …. Your conscience is clear my friend , keep up the good work 👍🏼😬
Thank you for the video. This is the neatest tuck pointing that I've seen. Great job!
Thanks very much that means a lot to me
Dude! Beautiful job Nice and clean. I hope people watching realize there is a lot more to this. Been doing this myself for about 6 years ,people don't realize how hard it is to keep it clean or it looks like crap when it dries. Nobody ever shows in ANY of the videos how well there mortar matched after it was all dry. Mortar matching is an art in itself .
888huckleberry thanks a lot
thanks a lot everybody I really appreciate it I take a lot of pride in what I do thanks
Frank, please let me know the exact mix. including bonding agent, thanks, Bob
Many kudos to you Frank.
I think a 2-1 mix is smart for this scenario instead of 3-1. But why Portland, here in Canada we use portland mostly for concrete, Type S for masonry and Type N for clay brick like in your video. Also do you ever put Acrilic Resin Bond (milk) in your mix, why or why not. Great vid, only guy on RUclips who is professional at it. I assume a job like that is Time and Material? - How would you accurately estimate that, right?
We can always use skilled guys like you in Toronto if you ever are looking for a change of scenery
Do you do work in Montgomery County?
@@adelpero12 try 4:1
Francis very nice work. I always think brick work is an art
georgeEPC thanks
Fantastic video thanks very much. I've watched loads of UK pointing videos and no one takes as much care as you. I'm just re pointing my garage and will follow your tips. Lovely to see someone take so much pride. 👍
Thanks
That’s because they’re used to working to a price of about £30/m2 and you have to work fast to make any wonga. I’m guessing the video is work being done by the hour, as the finish has been deemed to be all important.
Plus pointing in the UK use much less stiff mortar mixes, typically 1 part cement, 1 part lime, to 6 parts sand, which is easier to work with. The 1:2 cement sand mix being used in the video would be far too stiff for the usual facing brick used in the UK.
@@Benzknees But the videos are being specifically made for the DIY person as any pro would would already know what to do and is not paid anything as they are doing it for themselves 😉
@@argonaut6386 - Maybe, but they’re still showing how they would do it as a pro. Plus, in the UK rain is never far away, so you have to work fast!
@@argonaut6386 It’s a how to video. If you’re going to teach your kids how to drive you don’t go 120 miles an hour down the road you start slow
This guys the best I've seen on RUclips
Jamie Watkinson thanks
Np bro just speak the truth
Very nice... A true craftsman .. Your skill and experience shows as much as your pride in doing a quality job.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it nothing makes me more happy than a positive comment thank you
You are awesome Francis. I admire your work and can see you take great pride in what you do!
You keep working hard, and continue taking pride in and putting your all in what you do. It will not go unnoticed. I guarantee it. And don't be afraid to ask for compensation for what you know your worth. Take care man, God bless you...
See that's what I'm talking about! Looking and looking, and then I come across this. I'm thinking why is everyone getting the mortar on the bricks and messing it all up ugly? Then I see this video. Ok, this guy's a professional! He's doing a historical building. That says it all. No mess on the bricks, clean work! Thanks for sharing the right way man! Very nice job. Before I saw your video I was thinking of trying a cake frosting mix bag to squeeze in the mortar, then point, on same thing on my house. Is this something you ever do or no? Thanks a lot.
Excellent instruction, i love the techniques shared. thank you
"They say high work ain't eye work but...I'm standing right here. And I can see it." - this quote sums up this guy's integrity nicely. Shame that his ethic is getting harder to come by.
Good saying plus a good mason as well
I learned a some of hawk and pointing tool technique. Thanks for the pointers. My old house has soft brick, so I have to use lime mortar. Very little if any Portland can be used. If I elect to use a bit of Portland, it has to be white Portland to match the original lime mortar.
Excellent Craftsmanship from a true Craftsman!
Thanks a lot really appreciate it
there is craft in those hands, and concern in the heart, bravo
This dude is a beast. These videos definitely helped me out
yo man thanks a lot I really appreciate it. I'm really glad it helped
Great work. I have done brickwork much the same way you have shown, with the exception I prefer using a longer tuck pointer with a handle to do bed joints, and similar tuck pointer to yours for the head joints. A lot of people seem to be critical of speed in repointing, but the reality is quality and neatness don't go hand in hand with speed. Sure time is money, but at the same time a bad masonry repoint ruins the look of brick. Older buildings deserve the best in care and quality. Nothings sadder to me than seeing a old building with grinder cut marks all over the bricks, sloppy mortar all over, and a overall lack of attention to detail.
You sound like your the first one layed off when it gets close to winter lmfao 🤣
Tis is the very best I have seen!!
9:24 this guy is for real uses his own clean shirt to wipe the brick that he purposely messed up to teach us..
Thx bro
Good work
RIELSAVAGE Hey thanks a lot buddy it’s comments like this that make me glad I posted this video I appreciate it
Wow good for you sir.Nice to see there are still people taking pride in their work as opposed to just collecting a cheque. Have to say i would not have the steady hands 5 stories up. I do a little bit of tuckpointing but only on the ground.
thank you this is y i do it
"I'm standing right here...I can see it." 👍🏼 Outstanding at fifty feet up shows no compromising in my book. 👍🏼
Great quality work. You're kind of like a dentist for buildings.
Great video - thanks for sharing your insights!
Looks great, i would have finished the wall in this video but it woud not have looked as good as yours.
The moral of the story? Get a pro in to do the work if you want an excellent finish like Francis has achieved.
999shakers .brian thanks 😎
Finally, someone who takes there time and gets more cement in the joints and not on the brick face or on the floor 👍
billy bodgit Thank you
Francis - I am going to attempt to do my own brick pointing. You mention Portland Mortar 2 to 1.... Is that 2 parts mortar and 1 part water? Also, what are all the tools needed to get the job done? I have to fill gaps and also replace a horrible job a previous contractor did. Thank you for your time!
I think he means 2 parts sand and 1 portland cement 👍
in a place like that the only person to see his quality workmanship will be the next guy who point the bricks decades down the road and he will say "boy the person who pointed this sure did a good job"...i hope the next guy isn't a hack
thank you
Nice and tidy!
Appreciate!!!👍
Beautiful workmanship.
Fuck me someone's on day rate 😂
4 hours...5 bricks pointed...THATS LUNCH.....
I worked for a company out of MN that did restoration just like you.. honestly I think I enjoyed setting up the swingstages more than tuck pointing from one lol
Fuck that man I hate carrying weights around on a roof one job we had 250 50 pound weights we had to move around on top of a courthouse and all the laborers in the local hall were busy or at least that’s probably what they said so they didn’t have to hall weights around all night it was a night job to it sucked dick we had to carry our own shit around to many weights for that shit when we had to move 4 stages but each stage crew was moving there own at that point would have been nice with a few labors carrying the weights though we didn’t have enough man power most jobs are nice with swing stages but we were washing not Beauno
This was non union so we alll carried weights
this is amazing I am so in awe right now I know this takes skill great work in sharing your art
thanks
Labourers do this in England, not much skill really.
r3d3y3si agreed but there is skill to doing a clean & tidy job, most labourers just lash it.
@ on big sites maybe, that wouldn't wash on private job's customers would not pay.
2-1 wow that’s a sarong mix, is very exposed face work to strong cold winds?
Too strong isn't it
You've got that section done by now I would reckon
Love it that you take so much pride.
CHEERS
Good work. However i am surprised you are using Portland cement with bricks. I would have used lime which is more flexible and less hard to the bricks.
ririshow won’t last as long
Lovely tidy job. A pleasure to watch a professional at work. I will try to do better. You said 2:1. Does that seem a strong mix?
Very strong
far too strong
you'll have lumps of brick dropping off
2-1 is to strong a mix. Mortar should never be harder than bricks as any movement will crack the brick and not the mortar joint.
The guy is a fairy 😂 he would be gone before the first break, what a wally ! ……… I’ve had 40 yrs
On the line , he would just about make it on the hod …… nah ! He’s not that good
@@DobermanDave531 would love to see some of your videos plus it’s a how to video you don’t teach somebody how to drive going to 120 miles an hour
I like your care but don’t you think winter would catch up to you at this space?
If you teach somebody how to drive do you teach them at 180 miles an hour no
Nice work Francis!!! Why 2 to 1 versus 3 to 1?
Because all the pointers in the area always do a two-to-one and it lasts a long time I've seen fronts done 25 years ago with 2 2 1 I'll do 3 to 1 if I'm doing an inside wall
Yeah thought it just might be that way in PA. Been in construction most my life, but masonry that's just an art.
Please explain portland two to one.
Portland is ordinary portland cement, 2 to 1 is 2x sand by ratio to 1 cement which is one hell of a strong mix, but he is high up and exposed, the sand im guessing is soft sand ( builders sand ) not grit sand (sharp sand) which would be used with lime nhl 3.5 or a 5 if high and exposed if pointing on a soft brick, like a victorian clamp brick, which was originally built using lime mortar, the mortar should always be softer than the brick ( sacraficial)
Killer video and work ethic man, we need more people like you who take pride in their work!
Hi thanks a lot I really appreciate it I get a lot of heat from people on this video for some reason. I was going slow because it’s a how to video to show people how to LOL
Hey nice work.... I have learned over the years u mist the joints the make a dry mix and just puah it off the hawk no joke its ten times faster with barley and mess... maybe way it a lui more for the head joints.... but im sure u have to use sure clean on it regaurdless right... historical society wants it perfect... good job mate.... must be good money also
Craftsmanship always shows, fantastic job, keep up your standards regardless of what people say, Craftsmanship is Craftsmanship!!
Jeff Bilbrough thanks
Going to take a long time to do that wall.!!
Very tidy work, but I think if I work at your pace it would take me about 40 years to do my house
Well then here’s what you do trying to teach somebody how to drive at 180 miles an hour. This is a how to video I can do 300 ft.² a day which is a 15 x 2 5 ft.²
Hmm nice work but it would take you a year at the rate your going
Well that's why it's a how-to video I'm going slow to teach people I can do about 300 square feet a day
What does everyone have against grout bags? Yes this is a nice neat job, but I could make it as neat but get 10 times more done a day with a grout bag
Scott S I just never use them it would be perfect for joints decide but but her joints you won’t be able to use it
3 years later ..... and job done !
Thanks for watching now im about to start it again keep watching !
It’s a how to video
Man, this looks like the right way to point. After watching this, you can't help but cringe at the embarrassing way most other videos on RUclips show brick pointing done (basically slop it on with a trowel and try and wipe it off a bit).
Geoff Cheshire thanks
well i have to say very slow but best pointing video i have seen, it is the finished job and yes it does matter, glad i saw that excellent job..
Beautiful work, what a perfectionist.
Richard mcmurry thanks a lot I really appreciate it I try and take pride in my work
Paid by the hour?
Francis, what do you think to the ‘hand injection bag method’ (bag like used with icing sugar). What is the mortar, is sand to Portland cement in a ratio of 5:1 ok for chimney, or is a stronger 3:1 better ? How deep should I remove old mortar from joint, eg 1/2 inch ?thanks for sharing.
A true artist! This guy has the right stuff!!
I’ve done some 250 year old stone foundations.....
I love pointing by the hour!!!!
Pointing by the hour??
@@josephmancini1073 getting paid by the hour !
so nice to see someone taking pride in what they do instead of just slapping it in. If you don't splat the face face of the brick you don't have to clean it afterwards. Very nice work sir, very neat.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it I take great pride in my work
Mortar gun Homey. I only use a hawk and trowel now for small stuff. Good work though, looks good.
You never tried a tuk pointing mortar holding board were you offer it up to the brick joint and push it in with finger trowels
That's what I do. Use an 18 inch drywall trowel. Works great.
What artistry!
Francis a 2:1 mix seems excessive to me - is this because of a requirement with this specific job? As far as I understand that after a certain ratio (around 5:1) there is only a minimal increase in hardness when this ratio is strengthened (in this case 2:1) and minimal change in permeability (water resistance) or exposure to frost damage. Please enlighten me further.
Also if you're mixing with such a low volume of sand in the mix doesn't the colour appear to have a more 'greeny brown' cement shade rather than the traditional and more 'historic' buff colour with the 5:1 or weaker mixes? Or are you adding any buff/beige colourant to the mix? or any other admixture?
Again..., job well done my friend!!!
David Smuts 2:1 is stonger than any type s mortar used to build commercial brick buildings. 5:1 portland sand is not a proper mix either. 6:1:1 or 9:1:2 would be acceptable mixes. for example, 6 parts well graded mason sand, 1 part portland cement, 1 part type s hydrated lime. A 2:1 portland /sand ratio would damage a wall within months ,usually the first freeze/thaw. Also when dealing with lime built historic buildings, cement products should never be used.
Hi Francis - would you be interested in doing some side job pointing work at (4) twin houses in a row out near Fort Washington?
Sorry I moved to Tennessee for years ago and it’s been the best thing that’s ever happened to me
I'll do it if it's still available
Best video that I have seen on pointing. Excellent tips from someone who you can tell, takes great pride in his work. Thank you for posting this video.
Excellent job. Does that tool have a concave face to prevent the mortar falling off.
no its just skill lol
Yes you are very skilled, obviously. Thank you.
This man cares about what he is doing. I expect he has created some very smart work with the attitude & approach he has towards his craft. Great to see.
Richard Parkins thanks I appreciate it
Mab you my hero. Love to see guys doing the very best. Not easy to find.
Nice work
Great work and attention to detail!
ok still think its to strong there is no need ive been pointing for 30 years currently pointing 200 year old listed building in the city of london but enjoued watching
Do you mean his mix is to strong, im curious as i will be doing my house soon
Your awesome!!
Houssein Al-Eidan Thank you very much
It took about 2 minutes to point of one brick. And without taking into account, remove the mortar, wash the wall and prepare the mortar.
Simple maths: A wall 3 meters by 6 meters has approximately 900 bricks. 900 bricks multiplied by 2 minutes is 30 hours or almost 4 full working days!!!
What employer would keep such an employee? What can he earn?
Or is it just a hobby?
It looks like the old mortar was removed by hammer and chisel……. And not a grinder …..Was that the case ? ? And as you know your job came out awesome with no smearing on the vertical joints…….” Nothing on the brick “ great job
Simply great work.. Hard to come by..
Great job Francis still craftsmen around but for how long ?
Brian Smith thanks a lot I appreciate it
Mad skills
You've got to be Joking! Denis O'leary Wimbledon ( bricklayer for 45 years)
What the fucks wrong with this
Just to keep you updated I was accepted into a 4 year apprenticeship with local 1
Should of made the mortar like brown sure and packed it dry it would went so much faster
great video, you're a man that know's his trade. I appreciate how you throw out jems of knowledge too, thank you!
Portland 2:1 ?
Far too strong a mix if that's a building sand/cement mix.
Thanks, great work and inspires me to do it better and neater on my house.
Can't you just hold flat plate upto and put it in? Like the art of choreography
Perps always first then horizontal or beds and always damp your bricks
we do it differently in London.
yes I heard that from a different guy but to each is own I do it this way because I like it and plus I do about 250 square feet a day but butterjoint about 150 square feet a day please post a video on how they do it in London I would like to see it thank you
We do it differently in Belgium .
Very Nice. Wonder if you do work in Baltimore City?
no sorry I'm in Philadelphia
Very cool. Thanks for the video!
no problem thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I've been a union Tuckpointer in Chicago ILL for 33 years now & If I seen THAT'S ALL he has done in 10 mins? He would be FIRED!!!! LOL He's a time & material kind of worker ha? LMAO!!!
You got it, huge hawk and finish pointer eorking backwards screams self taught scab.
$500 a day for an owner is a failed business. We make that in a day here in Chicago just in wages. Try 750 sq minimum to keep a job.
Watching this guy infuriates how hard I have to push. He is coasting in Chicago, we go faster even the cold with gloves on buddy wrong hawk dumbass.
@@radiotests do you have a video in how you're guys are doing it? and is 750sq a 1 person target or a crews target?
It's a demonstration. Not him working. Cut him some slack
Mate hold your board against the wall. and you will be 20x faster 💰
I use a pointing bag..takes a tenth of the time and perfectly clean.
Now that's how you point 👍🏻
You ever move to Wisconsin, I have a job for you. I only want individuals who take pride in their work. This quality is more rare than you may believe. You are worth a descent wage. You should be proud of yourself. I need more people like you who I can trust and who reflect the pride I have in the company I have worked hard to create.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that's funny you say about moving because I'm moving to Tennessee in 2 days LOL but thanks
francis sciarrillo I'm wondering what city you're moving to. I'm in Columbia, Tn and would consider hiring you for a job if possible.
as a city and guild s time served brickie for over thirty years this is painful, not tuck pointing for one and that arch should be skipped, enjoy your enthusiasm tho, good luck
Not as painful as watching your Lego videos and you sound like you're twelve years old but thanks anyway keep up the awesome Lego videos
Grout bag..or tuck point gun..1000 times more productive
Moves horribly and unnecessarily slow. Its easy to move 10 times this speed while achieving even better quality. Unfortunately he probably doesn't know, or wasn't taught that a 2-1 mix will destroy this wall the bricks will soon start to spall and faces fall off because the mortar is way too hard. Mortar is meant to be sacrificial to the brick.
You have no idea what you're talkin about. These are iron spotted bricks and this is in Philadelphia Pennsylvania where the Historic Society is involved I've been doing fronts for over 20 years. Unless you have some video proof of you doing any better I'd like to see it.
How much coast 1 qm?
Francis, if you did notice a bit of mortar say 12 to 24 hours later on a brick, how could you remove it? Would you use hot water and a stiff brush or something stronger like acid and water mixed at a specific ratio? Thanks!
Get muriatic acid and mix it with water 50-50 but if it’s break that just got laid do you want to give it about 5 to 7 days before you wash it