Thanks! Inspiring for me as well, reading your motivating comment. So you had a Fisher 30 in Norway. Probably from Norway then.... Why not get another Fisher? :-)
Congratulations on your approach, in its thoroughness and application. Yes the rudder is disappointing but I expect the builders thought the inside of the rudder ‘will never get wet’ and besides stainless has its own issues when it is excluded from oxygen. You are doing an excellent job.
The rudder "issue" is important as there might be loads of old queens out there with a heavily corroded rudder, just waiting to snap at the wrong time. This was for me a scary discovery...
That rudder was a bit of a stinker ...good job you found out what had happend.. Its quite alarming when you see the weakness of some boats rudder construction .. The Iberian Orca pods have provided plenty of proof of that past couple of years.
Thanks for your comment, Clive. This construction was initially good, but did´nt pass the test of time. I wonder if the yard thought there would never be any water leaking into the rudder, which is quite strange again since it is considered (or so I have heard) the wettest part of a boat. The Orca-situation is also worrying in terms of the Orca actually now attack boats, but also underline the fact that the rudder is a very important instrument on a boat and should (for bluewater boats) be prepared for a lot of stress. I like the fact that this rudder (in the video) is well protected and is attached also on the bottom of the rudder. However I do still wonder if it would endured an Orca-attack. Also I have changed from the single-cable steering (Teleflex?) to an hydraulic system and would the latter withstand such stress?
@@hsobstad Hi the big issue is the nice crunchy foam filled glass or carbon unsupported rudders.. And kick back for smaller boats... young orca playing Practice harassment techniques are one thing a full blown adults actual hunting attack is another thing all together. ..and hasnt been seen thankfully. When a full grown orca decides to play with a yatch at anchor it can spin it and drag it round like like a Rottie with a toy tyre . I think you have to put yourself into their world of seeing through things with ultrasound and then add noise from these neighbours messing their habitat up .... They get ploughed down and cut up by big ships and disturbed in their feeding attempts by the smaller boats..fishing and pleasure. Plus we have noisy engines sounding inside these shells that are hollow and you can see that they are ... And where the solid metal bits are .. These are animals that are like wolves crossed with elephants ... very intelligent with social cultures like elephants governed by matriarch's. If they loose the guidance of a matriarch they can develope delinquent behaviours.. They are also the masters of their realm ... they have long memories and are accustomed to being working things out . I did a long post in Chasing currents after their encounter with links showing the difference between hunting aggression and antisocial warning or play behaviour. Its the biggest dolphin ... and they are divided into clans and pods. Its often a case that boat builders assume that water will be always stay where its intented...but as a Scientist you know its the universal solvent and given time and weather will reduce mountains to sand. You just have to assume its going to find its way in sooner rather than later ...and work with it in mind. 😉 Being able to drain sealed areas is the first lesson we should learn.
Glad to see this older post of yours. It answers several of my questions. I have been reading your more recent posts. Your boat is a ketch! Back in the mid 70's I sailed a Challenger 35 ketch. On a broad reach a ketch is hard to beat. Close hauled that mizzen sail will give a weather helm that you have to fight all the time. At least at anchor or tied to a mooring ball you can put a small riding sail on the mizzen and in light wind the boat wont drift around nearly as much. So with this information (new to me) my recommendation is (if it were my boat) rebuild or replace both masts and booms. They look like they are rebuildable to me. Main and mizzen sails replaced with two reef points for each at original sail dimensions. Replace headsail with a larger genoa (lapper sail) with roller furling/reefing. I would have the lapper become a masthead sail. Based on what I see from your pictures. sail problems solved. But I'm not there and you are so I hope my thoughts are useful to you.
Thanks for your input. All information will be useful in the long run. Yes it is a Ketch. Being a motorsailer I will probably motorsail on close hauled in stead of fighting both wind and waves with limited progress. I guess I should sail it a bit with the original sail size (new sails) and then evaluate. :-)
Excellent work! Happy you spotted the rudder issue! That is a good as new vessel that you can trust when you are done! That might not be true for a new production boat.
Thank you! The rudder issue was a scary discovery. Still wonder why they used ordinary Black Steel in the support, and not stainless, as in the rudder axle. I like the enormous solidity of these early glassfiber boats. The new boats are trimmed and probably very good, but still......
Great job! I have a Tresfjord 28 that I am doing much the same restoration too. About the same vintage as your boat. Built in 1979. You are an inspiration to me !
Thanks Bradley for your kind comment. So you have a Norwegian produced boat. Your Tresfjord is from Skorgenes boatbuilders, laying at Vestnes, just by the Tresfjord, a fjord in the county of Møre og Romsdal by the western Norwegian coast. These boats has a good reputation for being build with quality and seaworthiness in mind. Well worth restoring!
It is very informative to see the hull/deck joint when it is completely stripped of teak and hardware. I hope you have seen and studied the website where a boat builder completely guts and rebuilds a sunken F-30.. Not a Nor'easter, but useful
Hi, this is not typical of the original Fishers built in Havant Hampshire UK. They were all built by Fairways marine, for a start red lead sealant was never ever used on our boats, they were built by craftspeople dedicated to the construction of a first class motor sailer, almost all had Volvo engines and everything was constructed on site, from the Hull and decks, joinery, electrics, rigging and anything the customer may require as an extra or modification, both internal or otherwise. All of our boats, the 25ft, 30ft 37ft and variations including the trawler versions, and the twin engined luxury motor vessels. We took great pride in everything we made at our Langston Havant works, as for the Red lead, we used only a product called Ralli Bondite for all deck sealants being a two part mix or a gun grade rubber, only the very best of materials were used, and no corners were cut anywhere. I am deeply saddened to see any boat calling itself a Fisher not made in our works. But sadly due to a sell out they were made by other builders elsewhere, my guess is that this is one of those. Not a Havant built boat, unless others have had repairs done before you owned her. My hope is that you can rebuild her, as they were a truly well built sturdy boat. Best regards Rob.
Hi Rob. Exciting input you bring here. Based on your input, I presume you have a direct connection to the former Fairways Marine in some way. Did you work at the factory maybe? I am a member of the FOA (Fisher Owners Association). There is a guy there with very much info on the Fishers. I have given him a picture of the serial no, and where I found it. And also a lot of pictures of the boat. He says it is a genuine Fisher 30 Northeaster, made by Fairways. Job no 069, hull no 56, date of build start: 5th January 1976. Also I did ask on the FOA-site what this red putty was; they said red led putty. I also know from the FOA-website that this extended leak in the joining between deck and hull is a common problem on the Fishers. If you still think this is not an original Fisher 30 Northeaster, built by Fairways Marine, I am very much interested in some documentation. I will for sure ask on the FOA-website anyway, but It would be great to have as much input as possible. Thanks for any input, Rob. :-)
@@hsobstadHi, this is my first time to make comment on anything found on utube, so please be patient for a few days as I am going to try to contact some older employees for additional info. I was perhaps one of the younger employees at Langston, and being 80 myself means that very few of us are left standing now, I will get back to you with whatever I can find out. Fairways was the very best place I had ever worked, 50 years ago and I still miss it like crazy, finest bunch of real craftspeople ever. Thanks for your reply quite unexpected, love your vids, watched all of them twice now. Will message you soon, Rob.
@@RobinFreeland Hi Rob. I love the fact you are commenting on my video. A great honour for me that a former employee at Fairways has made contact. Lovely to read that Fairways was a god place to work and with skilled craftspeople. Looking forward to hearing from you Rob. Take the time you need. No rush! 🙂 Helge
@@hsobstad Helge, you have made an old man happy, refreshing my memories of the very best working days of my life. I have so much to tell you, I have dug up lots of Information that may be of use to you both in your restoration of your N.E. and the company itself, some is personal most is just plain info. On the building of these boats and the progress of them while I was there. Most unless an employee would not be possible to have had access to, but if not told will be gone forever, I will gladly provide this for you, but feel that this platform would not be correct as it is many pages long, it can be yours to write whatever you feel right for your followers to read, build details, engines,electrics, etc. Sorry I have no drawings now I left them with Fairways when I finally left. If you say it is right to send them on this platform I can do so, if not then please suggest a better way I do not want to break any rules of the channel. Please advise, yours Rob.
@@RobinFreeland Hello again, Rob. Thanks for your superquick response. I am very enthusiastic about this and very happy for your positive attitude towards sharing info. I am very much looking forward to hearing/reading what you have to tell. I agree that this information is not something for everyone - but will be everything to someone. So I could say something about it in the video and then maybe put more on my homepage (fjellsiden.com/ and also distribute to a contact in FOA (Fisher Owners Association) if that would be okay with you. If you could send them to me via email, I can read and we can continue to communicate there. The email adress is: fisher30northeaster@gmail.com Would this be okay for you?
Bit late to the party, but you asked why black steel for the rudder post and tabs. Stainless does not like to be perminantly submerged and sealed. It forms an oxide which is the 'stainless' only in the presence of oxygen..... you can get a 'thing' called crevice corossion below the waterline. Crevice crorrosion starts out as microfine cracks, but when it gets bad, the part fails unexpectedly. You see it in stainless screws and bolts where they are in constantly wet conditions. Your oak rudder is a moisture trap, and from that, your tabs are wet without oxygen. Coat the stainless in epoxy and you will probably be fine..... or you might be digging those tabs out again in 10 years. I dont think an anode is effective for stainless. Black steel (providing you have a galvanic connection or anode to/on the rudder) is actually better. My old 1972 Kent 28 (first boat, an old motosailor) had similar issues - It was a hybrid of steel and stainless. I coated the lot with Juton 2 part metal primers and it was fine after grinding back the cracks and adding new metal...
Hi, John. Thanks for the input. So...are you saying one use black steel (mild steel?), welded to the stainless steel rudder shaft, inside the rudder, to prevent corrosion? Or am I mistaken now. As seen in the video, the mild steel is completely gone/corroded away, in the weldings. The rudder is actually not oak, but some kind of epoxy filling inside a fibreglass shell. An anode made of zink should be working on stainless, as the zink is a lesser metal, and combined under water one of them will give in. I agree that steel (and aluminium) is a great way to make hulls. :-)
Hi, great job your doing, I'm looking at buying a 73 with similar issues as yours, are you still happy you bought her and does she sail well do you know? regards from England.
Thank you, Mark. If you are buying a similar Fisher, you should watch my previous videos (maybe you have 🙂) as there are several "issues" to be found in them. Am I happy I bought the boat? Yes! I did indeed expect issues, but as in many such projects they multiply. I still get the feeling of getting to know (and fix) ALL of the boat, and that control is very satisfying. And also satisfying is that I have not payed for a far better looking boat (both inside and outside) and still have all the hidden/underlying problems, resulting in tearing down most all anyway. There are more issues to come (later videos). Does she sail well? Well I really don´t know as I have never sailed her. But the Fishers are seriously under-rigged. Thats bad for sailing, but good for seaworthiness. I used to have a Dragonfly 800 trimaran. Excellent sailer...in shielded water. The Fishers are build to withstand (almost) anything of weather (still using common sense). I like that. I love the stability is so high that it might be turned 180 degress and still right itself up. But again that means the boat probably is aggressive in its rolling movements in waves, which again can cause sea sickness (half the reason to keep sails up - to dampen). I really dont care too much if it sails ok or bad. I will take all the time I need to get there and just enjoy the journey. Motorsailing should be great. Best of luck to you and a possible Fisher (or similar). (You also have the Viksund 31 Goldfish motorsailer as a candidate? It has ha much higher sail-area/wheight). Regards Helge
Hi Emilio. Thanks for your input. There was no possibility to detach an external heel shoe. This was part of the hull-structure and consist of thick fibreglass in good condition. No great advantage achieved if I removed it.
You have been VERY BUSY. Nice job!
Thanks! 🙂
Fantastic and inspiring! I had a Fisher 30 in Norway as well, and regret to this day selling it...
Thanks! Inspiring for me as well, reading your motivating comment. So you had a Fisher 30 in Norway. Probably from Norway then.... Why not get another Fisher? :-)
@@hsobstad I will! Whenever the chance returns of getting hold of one
Great job! 👍
Great work welll done
Thanks Tom! :-)
Great job!
Congratulations on your approach, in its thoroughness and application. Yes the rudder is disappointing but I expect the builders thought the inside of the rudder ‘will never get wet’ and besides stainless has its own issues when it is excluded from oxygen. You are doing an excellent job.
The rudder "issue" is important as there might be loads of old queens out there with a heavily corroded rudder, just waiting to snap at the wrong time. This was for me a scary discovery...
A sparkler! Patience and preparation paying off.
That rudder was a bit of a stinker ...good job you found out what had happend..
Its quite alarming when you see the weakness of some boats rudder construction ..
The Iberian Orca pods have provided plenty of proof of that past couple of years.
Thanks for your comment, Clive. This construction was initially good, but did´nt pass the test of time. I wonder if the yard thought there would never be any water leaking into the rudder, which is quite strange again since it is considered (or so I have heard) the wettest part of a boat.
The Orca-situation is also worrying in terms of the Orca actually now attack boats, but also underline the fact that the rudder is a very important instrument on a boat and should (for bluewater boats) be prepared for a lot of stress. I like the fact that this rudder (in the video) is well protected and is attached also on the bottom of the rudder. However I do still wonder if it would endured an Orca-attack.
Also I have changed from the single-cable steering (Teleflex?) to an hydraulic system and would the latter withstand such stress?
@@hsobstad
Hi the big issue is the nice crunchy foam filled glass or carbon unsupported rudders..
And kick back for smaller boats... young orca playing Practice harassment techniques are one thing a full blown adults actual hunting attack is another thing all together. ..and hasnt been seen thankfully.
When a full grown orca decides to play with a yatch at anchor it can spin it and drag it round like like a Rottie with a toy tyre .
I think you have to put yourself into their world of seeing through things with ultrasound and then add noise from these neighbours messing their habitat up .... They get ploughed down and cut up by big ships and disturbed in their feeding attempts by the smaller boats..fishing and pleasure. Plus we have noisy engines sounding inside these shells that are hollow and you can see that they are ... And where the solid metal bits are ..
These are animals that are like wolves crossed with elephants ... very intelligent with social cultures like elephants governed by matriarch's.
If they loose the guidance of a matriarch they can develope delinquent behaviours..
They are also the masters of their realm ... they have long memories and are accustomed to being working things out . I did a long post in Chasing currents after their encounter with links showing the difference between hunting aggression and antisocial warning or play behaviour.
Its the biggest dolphin ... and they are divided into clans and pods.
Its often a case that boat builders assume that water will be always stay where its intented...but as a Scientist you know its the universal solvent and given time and weather will
reduce mountains to sand.
You just have to assume its going to find its way in sooner rather than later ...and work with it in mind. 😉 Being able to drain sealed areas is the first lesson we should learn.
Glad to see this older post of yours. It answers several of my questions. I have been reading your more recent posts. Your boat is a ketch! Back in the mid 70's I sailed a Challenger 35 ketch. On a broad reach a ketch is hard to beat. Close hauled that mizzen sail will give a weather helm that you have to fight all the time. At least at anchor or tied to a mooring ball you can put a small riding sail on the mizzen and in light wind the boat wont drift around nearly as much. So with this information (new to me) my recommendation is (if it were my boat) rebuild or replace both masts and booms. They look like they are rebuildable to me. Main and mizzen sails replaced with two reef points for each at original sail dimensions. Replace headsail with a larger genoa (lapper sail) with roller furling/reefing. I would have the lapper become a masthead sail. Based on what I see from your pictures. sail problems solved. But I'm not there and you are so I hope my thoughts are useful to you.
Thanks for your input. All information will be useful in the long run.
Yes it is a Ketch. Being a motorsailer I will probably motorsail on close hauled in stead of fighting both wind and waves with limited progress.
I guess I should sail it a bit with the original sail size (new sails) and then evaluate. :-)
Superb job! You won't regret it when you get out sailing!! All the best from the Salish Sea in PNW ... Fisher 34 #16.
Thanks, Thomas, for motivating me. Also great to hear from a fellow Fisher-owner. Enjoy Salish Sea!
A lot of work a lot! You're doing a great job keep going mate Marty Australia
Thanks Marty! 🙂
Excellent work! Happy you spotted the rudder issue! That is a good as new vessel that you can trust when you are done! That might not be true for a new production boat.
Thank you! The rudder issue was a scary discovery. Still wonder why they used ordinary Black Steel in the support, and not stainless, as in the rudder axle. I like the enormous solidity of these early glassfiber boats. The new boats are trimmed and probably very good, but still......
Deserves 1000's of views
Great job! I have a Tresfjord 28 that I am doing much the same restoration too. About the same vintage as your boat. Built in 1979. You are an inspiration to me !
Thanks Bradley for your kind comment. So you have a Norwegian produced boat. Your Tresfjord is from Skorgenes boatbuilders, laying at Vestnes, just by the Tresfjord, a fjord in the county of Møre og Romsdal by the western Norwegian coast. These boats has a good reputation for being build with quality and seaworthiness in mind. Well worth restoring!
Good job you found the faults with the rudder, that could have been scary!! Great work though and is going to look fantastic 👍👍
Yes! I did first considered sailing it home. Glad I did´nt... 🙂
Fantastic work. Keep it up. Loving it
Thanks! Will do!
It is very informative to see the hull/deck joint when it is completely stripped of teak and hardware. I hope you have seen and studied the website where a boat builder completely guts and rebuilds a sunken F-30.. Not a Nor'easter, but useful
Yes I have seen the web-place. Quite a few pages to get through ;-)
I would like to see the Site you mentioned, want is it?
@@bigpapaporsche1 www.fisher30.lackeysailing.com/
Hi, this is not typical of the original Fishers built in Havant Hampshire UK. They were all built by Fairways marine, for a start red lead sealant was never ever used on our boats, they were built by craftspeople dedicated to the construction of a first class motor sailer, almost all had Volvo engines and everything was constructed on site, from the Hull and decks, joinery, electrics, rigging and anything the customer may require as an extra or modification, both internal or otherwise. All of our boats, the 25ft, 30ft 37ft and variations including the trawler versions, and the twin engined luxury motor vessels. We took great pride in everything we made at our Langston Havant works, as for the Red lead, we used only a product called Ralli Bondite for all deck sealants being a two part mix or a gun grade rubber, only the very best of materials were used, and no corners were cut anywhere. I am deeply saddened to see any boat calling itself a Fisher not made in our works. But sadly due to a sell out they were made by other builders elsewhere, my guess is that this is one of those. Not a Havant built boat, unless others have had repairs done before you owned her. My hope is that you can rebuild her, as they were a truly well built sturdy boat. Best regards Rob.
Hi Rob. Exciting input you bring here. Based on your input, I presume you have a direct connection to the former Fairways Marine in some way. Did you work at the factory maybe?
I am a member of the FOA (Fisher Owners Association). There is a guy there with very much info on the Fishers. I have given him a picture of the serial no, and where I found it. And also a lot of pictures of the boat. He says it is a genuine Fisher 30 Northeaster, made by Fairways. Job no 069, hull no 56, date of build start: 5th January 1976.
Also I did ask on the FOA-site what this red putty was; they said red led putty. I also know from the FOA-website that this extended leak in the joining between deck and hull is a common problem on the Fishers.
If you still think this is not an original Fisher 30 Northeaster, built by Fairways Marine, I am very much interested in some documentation. I will for sure ask on the FOA-website anyway, but It would be great to have as much input as possible. Thanks for any input, Rob. :-)
@@hsobstadHi, this is my first time to make comment on anything found on utube, so please be patient for a few days as I am going to try to contact some older employees for additional info. I was perhaps one of the younger employees at Langston, and being 80 myself means that very few of us are left standing now, I will get back to you with whatever I can find out. Fairways was the very best place I had ever worked, 50 years ago and I still miss it like crazy, finest bunch of real craftspeople ever. Thanks for your reply quite unexpected, love your vids, watched all of them twice now. Will message you soon, Rob.
@@RobinFreeland Hi Rob. I love the fact you are commenting on my video. A great honour for me that a former employee at Fairways has made contact.
Lovely to read that Fairways was a god place to work and with skilled craftspeople. Looking forward to hearing from you Rob. Take the time you need. No rush! 🙂 Helge
@@hsobstad Helge, you have made an old man happy, refreshing my memories of the very best working days of my life. I have so much to tell you, I have dug up lots of Information that may be of use to you both in your restoration of your N.E. and the company itself, some is personal most is just plain info. On the building of these boats and the progress of them while I was there. Most unless an employee would not be possible to have had access to, but if not told will be gone forever, I will gladly provide this for you, but feel that this platform would not be correct as it is many pages long, it can be yours to write whatever you feel right for your followers to read, build details, engines,electrics, etc. Sorry I have no drawings now I left them with Fairways when I finally left. If you say it is right to send them on this platform I can do so, if not then please suggest a better way I do not want to break any rules of the channel. Please advise, yours Rob.
@@RobinFreeland Hello again, Rob. Thanks for your superquick response. I am very enthusiastic about this and very happy for your positive attitude towards sharing info.
I am very much looking forward to hearing/reading what you have to tell. I agree that this information is not something for everyone - but will be everything to someone. So I could say something about it in the video and then maybe put more on my homepage (fjellsiden.com/ and also distribute to a contact in FOA (Fisher Owners Association) if that would be okay with you.
If you could send them to me via email, I can read and we can continue to communicate there. The email adress is: fisher30northeaster@gmail.com
Would this be okay for you?
Bit late to the party, but you asked why black steel for the rudder post and tabs. Stainless does not like to be perminantly submerged and sealed. It forms an oxide which is the 'stainless' only in the presence of oxygen..... you can get a 'thing' called crevice corossion below the waterline. Crevice crorrosion starts out as microfine cracks, but when it gets bad, the part fails unexpectedly. You see it in stainless screws and bolts where they are in constantly wet conditions. Your oak rudder is a moisture trap, and from that, your tabs are wet without oxygen. Coat the stainless in epoxy and you will probably be fine..... or you might be digging those tabs out again in 10 years. I dont think an anode is effective for stainless.
Black steel (providing you have a galvanic connection or anode to/on the rudder) is actually better. My old 1972 Kent 28 (first boat, an old motosailor) had similar issues - It was a hybrid of steel and stainless. I coated the lot with Juton 2 part metal primers and it was fine after grinding back the cracks and adding new metal...
Hi, John. Thanks for the input.
So...are you saying one use black steel (mild steel?), welded to the stainless steel rudder shaft, inside the rudder, to prevent corrosion? Or am I mistaken now. As seen in the video, the mild steel is completely gone/corroded away, in the weldings.
The rudder is actually not oak, but some kind of epoxy filling inside a fibreglass shell.
An anode made of zink should be working on stainless, as the zink is a lesser metal, and combined under water one of them will give in.
I agree that steel (and aluminium) is a great way to make hulls. :-)
Thanks
Now I won’t sleep until I cut into my rudder.
I am very sorry to bring such worries to your sleep. But I am very happy to avoid loosing the rudder-steering during heavy weather. 🙂
👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼👌🏼
Thank you, Christine! :-)
Seems over the top to me. But interesting.. Following along.
Hi, great job your doing, I'm looking at buying a 73 with similar issues as yours, are you still happy you bought her and does she sail well do you know? regards from England.
Thank you, Mark. If you are buying a similar Fisher, you should watch my previous videos (maybe you have 🙂) as there are several "issues" to be found in them. Am I happy I bought the boat? Yes! I did indeed expect issues, but as in many such projects they multiply. I still get the feeling of getting to know (and fix) ALL of the boat, and that control is very satisfying. And also satisfying is that I have not payed for a far better looking boat (both inside and outside) and still have all the hidden/underlying problems, resulting in tearing down most all anyway. There are more issues to come (later videos).
Does she sail well? Well I really don´t know as I have never sailed her. But the Fishers are seriously under-rigged. Thats bad for sailing, but good for seaworthiness. I used to have a Dragonfly 800 trimaran. Excellent sailer...in shielded water. The Fishers are build to withstand (almost) anything of weather (still using common sense). I like that. I love the stability is so high that it might be turned 180 degress and still right itself up. But again that means the boat probably is aggressive in its rolling movements in waves, which again can cause sea sickness (half the reason to keep sails up - to dampen). I really dont care too much if it sails ok or bad. I will take all the time I need to get there and just enjoy the journey. Motorsailing should be great.
Best of luck to you and a possible Fisher (or similar). (You also have the Viksund 31 Goldfish motorsailer as a candidate? It has ha much higher sail-area/wheight). Regards Helge
Scraping ? Try blasting with walnut hulls.
I think it will do less damage, and reduce the time, and labor. This was done without harm to my small teak boat with no harm,
Was really no other option for me, making as little dust as possible. I think it worked ok, and as a bonus my arms got a real workout 🙂
I would 've removed the keel heel shoe completely before glassing again.
Hi Emilio. Thanks for your input.
There was no possibility to detach an external heel shoe. This was part of the hull-structure and consist of thick fibreglass in good condition. No great advantage achieved if I removed it.
@@hsobstad I thought it was brass. Fixed with screws.
@@emilioplentz The ordinary Fisher 30 has that. Or is it iron? This, however, has GRP.
@@hsobstad I think it is brass.