Blimp, I worked on my Tresfjord 28 all winter. New shaft, prop, cutlass bearing. That was a job as I had to remove stern tube. My story is same as yours. Could not get up to revs with my Volvo Penta D75-2. Back out of the water different prop. Same result. Back out of water. Yep , turbo froze like yours. New turbo from Sweden, (best price) stainless riser from UK. Now plenty of power and up to revs. Now 10:10 new problem. Shaft deflection at max revs. Project this week is install shaft support bearing near stuffing box. Umm, always something. Thanks for the video! Brad
Hi Bradley! Thanks for you comment. I have blamed myself for not thinking about checking the turbo before buying a new propeller. Once get stuck on one thought.... So your propeller-shaft is bends/deflects at max rpm. Is that due to engine vibration (like on mine) or a shaft underrated for your engine power? So the support-bearing should solve this?
Previous owner repowered and this engine has additional 20 hp. I found that the length of shaft exceeds engineering calculations for single support. There is this really brilliant on line calculator found at R.E. Thomas Hardware. You put in you data and it calculates maximum length, diameter and so forth. So yes this support should solve the problem. And like you I should have checked the turbo first. My engine only had 150 hrs so I did not even consider, however the boat sat under a tree for 4 years! Going on the hard Wednesday so I’ll let you know how it goes!
Good Morning Blimp. Big day today. On the lift at 0800. Removed rudder, disconnected coupling and old stuffing assembly. Pulled shaft back so I could install my prefabbed bearing and PSS assembly. Rudder back on with new 316 SS bolts. In the water at 1400. All worked as it should. No leaks. Full revs to 3000 rpm with the new turbo assembly. The second cutlass bearing right behind the PSS packing really helped. Whilst hanging down in the bilge I did find the stb aft motor mount bolt loose. I suspect at WOT that comer of the engine might have be lifting up a bit? Well I hope that’s it for a while. Now it’s time for some liquid refreshment!
Hi Bradley. Great to see (read) that your work served it´s purpose. Interesting that you actually have a second cutlass bearing in the propeller-tube. I have never heard about that. But it worked. And you have a PSS shaft seal. I am considering that, to change from the present vintage seal. I have a PSS shaft seal in my Rhea 900, but that is much less waterpressure as it is a shallow draft. On the fisher I guess the shaft is about 90 cm below sea-level. Thanks for info, and enjoy your well deserved liquid refreshment! (I would picked beer. But I also know gentlemen Fisher-owners prefer gin/tonic 🙂
And what a great boat to dream with and DO with. A good friend crossed the Atlantic on one. Rhumb line from England to Florida. I love the lines. The most forgotten part of the drive train equation is the REDUCTON GEAR. The bigger prop that you can turn, the less slippage and better propulsion you get, epically in heave going with wind and seas against you. A 3:1 reduction and bigger prop would even be better than what you have. Much better. But what you have is good. Even at 2300 rpm you were pushing hull speed! So you should do very well at 2800. Enjoy that wonderful go anywhere boat.
Thanks for your positive comment. Extremely cool that your friend has done a crossing with a Fisher. I agree that a slower turning propeller is better (and looks cooler too). Going from 2.47:1 to 3:1 is however not a great change, but enough that I would have to change the propeller shaft to a larger diameter. If I were to do that I might as well go 4:1 :-) I think - as you also write - I will be fine with the present setup. :-)
@@hsobstad My how I love these boats. So beautiful. And yes, you are right. The good news is that what is so often the limiting factor is prop clearances on the hull or aperture. You have good room there!
Aaaaah...memories. It's true what they say about the two happiest days in a mariner's life being the day they bought their dream boat and the day they sold it. I do my cruising in a canoe these days and enjoy it just as much and for a fraction of the cost.
They say the greatest pleasures you will find in the smaller things. That may very well be true for boating as well. Smaller boat is also smaller worries and lower costs... :-)
@@ianscott3180 I feel your pain, and my own. After 25 years, due to a debilitating injury, I sold my gorgeous 32' full keeled sloop and bought a beater canoe which I refitted to a very high standard, complete with sprit rig and leeboard. Now I do week plus long cruises on the biggest lake in Algonquin Park because portaging is out of the question. It's an absolute paradise and I've never been happier.
Canoe maintenance zero. Costs for accessories: roof rack on car, rope tie down points 4 corners of car, rope to tie down, one rope at either bow or stern, PFD's adult & maybe child, paddles, knee pads and those are all one time costs and many years between replacements. Before canoeing I backpacked where weight is very tightly controlled. I looked at canoeing as a way to easily carry as much as I wanted. Then in even a small sailboat I can carry what I used to consider huge amount of weight and now is trivial. What about rest of Fisher? There are so many systems if other systems were mostly ok then yes the boat including engine needed only light maintenance as advertised.
@@budbuddybuddest I so were, than you would be right. My 5 or 6 earlier videos of the refurbishment should document my claim, I guess. These videos are very compact and amateurish but they are focusing some of the major issues. Thank you for watching and commenting. 🙂
@@user-sf9pq5ox7w That is of course right, if you do a common sense calculation. But this boat represents feelings and dreams. That makes all the difference... 🙂
Bro…I watch videos like this religiously. Hope to have a boat myself in a few years. This was the BEST video I ever watched. No talking. Just information. Please do more!
Brought back childhood aggravations and chipped knuckle memories. Learned a lot about the tractor engine in our 40' Morgan as a teenager. I never want to be involved in a yard hull restoration ever again in my life. You did indeed awaken the itch for the sea though lol. Enjoy the good life!
Thanks for your story. This boats engine is actually also a tractor engine (Kubota). I enjoy this restauration process as particles of the good life. And I dream about the day I can sail away :-)
@@philgiglio7922 It´s the west coast, yes....of Norway. So quite far away from Catalina harbour. This is Bergen, the 2nd largest city in Norway, still town-sized for the rest of the world. The boat is unfortunately far away from finished as the interior had to be removed due to rot. Feel free to check out some of the early videos where this topic is slightly covered. 🙂
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 I have seen what I thing is a 34 under sail. Never seen a video of "my" Fisher 30 Northeaster though... If you leave a link I will be happy to watch it 🙂
@@hsobstad It may be the 34 it had redbrown sails and was cracking on at a damn good rate of knots. If i can find it i will. I think it came down to sail area and make.. and giving it its head.
I'd suggest fitting a boost gauge. First because it'll let you know your turbo is working ok but more importantly if the wastegate seizes causing an overboost , you can catch it before your engine disintegrates or melts holes in pistons. I'd at least recommend regularly checking the wastegate can move freely.
Hi Blimp you asked about a valve on the exaust. Nothing fancy , just a normal gate valve like on a skin fitting. Put a couple of hose fittings on it and cut the hose and install with double hose clips. If you want to pay extra you can get very slim valves , we used to use these on our 200 mm shellfish tank overboards. But normal ones will do fine.
Ahh... So you close the valve from the inside of the boat? My exhaust hose is 3 inch diameter. That is a huge valve. I think I should consider a one-way pop-up valve. Do you know if such a valve is in production? Thanks, Graham! 😊
@@teeanahera8949 You are right about that, Tee. The new propeller is still ever so slightly on the large side. But I will test it for some time and see if it works okay. Might be a problem when the barnacles makes the propeller heavier to turn...🙂
Hi William. Full tour as of now is not particularly interesting as the boat is almost completely ripped out on the inside. On this video is a presentation of the boat, both inside and out. Be aware of some noice when the engine starts, about mid in the video. (amateurish of me - but I improve a bit for every video I hope). Video: ruclips.net/video/4sqicce51uY/видео.html
100 rpm. I would happily go with that. Shows the prop has got it loaded up properly and the engine is working as in working as in loaded up nicely. Being a Turbo i would suggest running at a constant 2,000 rpm plus. Keep the Turbo very hot and boosting continuously. Could hear the Turbo spooling up when you gave it to it. Mitsubishi make a beautiful diesel engine. Will keep going for decades providing you service it and run it reasonably hard as i suggested.
Thanks for your advice, David. This engine is actually a Kubota engine, used in medium-sized tractors if I have got it right. Nanni makes them into boat-engines. I recon Kubota buys the turbos from Mitsubishi due to not making turbos themselves. :-)
Just remembered, most of this kind and style of boat would have had a "compression post" is what they call it, from the cabin floor to the cabin roof under the foot of the mast to take the weight and forces produced by the mast and all its rigging, don't forget the mast will be under a lot of downward stress even without sailing her, the mast stays will be very tight to keep the mast rigid and under sail she will have forces going from side to side when jibing there will be a lot of weight, mast, boom, sails and sheets etc. Regards Alan
In the other respons to your kind input, I explain that there are such a "compression post", a wall/bulkhead, and I will keep the support underneath the mast. Thanks again, Alan.
Hi. You should get a sense of the inside in this video: ruclips.net/video/4sqicce51uY/видео.html (turn down sound - as the engine will suddenly kick in)
I love the shape of that boat. I think it would be very seaworthy by the look of it. I’m no expert but this boat has great freeboard and beam and would handle anything that Lake Simcoe in Ontario Canada would throw at it. 👍👍🇨🇦
That is probably correct, Rick. Half of its weight of 6.6 metric tonnes is ballast in the keel of the boat. It has a comfort-ratio of about 43, listing it as a heavy bluewater boat. And a capsize screening of 1.5, listing it as well suited for ocean passages. (source: Sailboat.guide). But this is all statistics. It still needs a good captain, taking weather-reports into all considerations. I hope I one day will se Lake Simcoe. Sure sounds like a "near nature experience". :-)
@@hsobstad I have read some of the other replies and agree with all of them....Words applied in broken English or not are necessary to become educated about what one is being exposed to Whether you decide to narrate or not is immaterial Love that style / model of boat and will watch no matter what
Well, now you know what light maintenance means😊. Your boat is a gem! Hope you enjoy for many years to come. The wood you’re showing at the end, I presume it’s the gunwhales. As no fenders were used, I suppose they’re there to protect and be replaced frequently. Some sort of an ecological fender? Cheers
I sure do! The wood is actually what the engine is resting on. And that is not a good thing! It is shaking a lot and I need to adress this issue in the near future. The gunwales are also to be renewed as they were in bad condition, so your point is valid. I will however protect them by using ordinary plastic/rubber fenders.
Enjoyed that and I have subscribed, I now need to catch up on this story from the beginning. I would not kick yourself too hard on the troubleshooting - all problems seem obvious - when viewed in the rear view mirror.😉😀👍 BTW: Dylan Winter (Keep Turning Left = YT channel) has a Fisher, he has not posted anything in the last year though.🤷♂️
Thanks, Norman. It is satisfying to fix things, even though missing the optimal solution. I guess that is what refurbishing is all about. I have seen some of the video´s from KeepTurningLeft. Yes, it´s a Fisher 25. Please forgive the amateurish level on the videos. I am improving.... :-)
Hi Michael. The interior is now removed as it was ruined by moisture. But the first video I made from the boat has a presentation of the boat, including the old interior. The history of the boat is in short terms: It has lived its life in the north of Norway, and had 4 owners from the same area. It has been named "Marco Polo" the entire time as far as I understood. I bought it from the 4th owner and got it transported to south/western Norway. It needs a lot of work to sail again. Hence these videos :-)
Thanks for you suggestion, Ton. I will definitely use a momentum wrench when I do the final mounting. There was a exhaust leak so I have ordered new gaskets, and also a new exhaust bend, as the old was quite corroded. Do you think blue Loctite will stand the heat?
There ia a loctite like fastening fluid available for high temperatures. A locknut might also do the trick. Or use two nuts and turn it tight against the other.
Thanks, Duncan. Next is fixing the fundation that the engine is mounted on (must pull out the engine). And also the old worn-out teak-rails is an issue.... And lots of other stuff... :-)
@@duncanjames914 Oh, I am sure I will meet plenty of problems/obstacles during the refit. But that´s what refit is all about. This way one will love (or hate) the boat even more when finished (boats never finishes...!)
@@hsobstad My thoughts exactly. It's part of the fun when messing around with boats. Sometimes what appears to be straightforward becomes increasingly complicated, yet we continue the pursuit. Enjoy.
On a vessel like This a large reduction gear and large prop are essential. So glad you only had to go down an inch. Ideal would be a larger prop with more reduction to allow full RPM. It’s all about minimizing slippage. I has a Cal ll-46 with an 85 hp Perkins 4-236. And a 2,8:1 reduction fixed 26” 3 blade. It was a ketch that motored as good as a trawler yet I made 200 mile days under sail. The fixed prop was never much of an issue for me. She could sail. I had a shaft lock as the hydraulic Borg Warner transmission would free wheel otherwise. Loved that boat. If you want to bash into conditions you need a large reduction and a large prop. I had a Fisher 37 under contract but she had too small a prop and reduction. The engine failed survey so I didn’t buy her. Got the Cal instead. Very glad I did, but I do have a soft spot for the Fishers. What is your HP? Thanks.
Hi Fred. Nice to read your story. Your Cal II-46 is a long-keeled ship. Probably a way better sailer then my Fisher. Quite large windows in that boat. Makes spaces feel really open. This Fisher has a 60hp Nanni Nogva N4.60 engine. It is a quite slow-rewing engine, with 2800rpm on max. The gear-ratio is 2.47:1. The gear is made for having the propeller spinning while sailing (I have had that confirmed from the main distributor). :-)
@@hsobstad 60 very good for that boat. Should motor well, and as she is a motor sailor that’s very good. A good friend of mine bought a Fisher 32 or 3 in England and sailed/ motored her accross the Atlantic non stop to Ft Lauderdale Fl. He pretty much took the rhumb line and motored right through the Bermuda High. He single handed and had a good trip. They are very capable boats.
Hi Alan. I am not sure a man in his mid-fifties, babbling away, english with a hint of Norwegian, would be a delight. :-D. Do you still thing I should consider that? :-)
Well done with fitting the new turbo the first bolts you fitted are they upside down ie nut on top would that have helped . invest in some ratchet spanners would help a lot better. 10/ 10 for video and effort
Thanks for your kind feedback. I hope you like my other videos on this boat as well. Yes, the first bolts for the oil-supply cable were pointing upwards. The problem were the inner screw, towards the engine. VERY tight space 😊
Turbos will not stand long for dirty/contaminated fuel. Get a clear jar and run a pint or so into that jar and let it settle out to see if it is clean before filling the tank. The hot side of your new turbo was corroded. Get that resurfaced. It looked as though you re-used an exhaust gasket. You did not use, or at least I did not see, a torque wrench to tighten to spec. It looked as though old bolts were used. Once a bolt has been tightened to yield, it is untrustworthy. Any of those things can cause a hot exhaust leak. That is not good in a small engine compartment. That was a good video, and your boat looks to be a comfortable, sea-kindly workhorse. I believe she is in good hands. Fair winds, sir.
Thank you for your advice and comments. I have checked the fuel and it was very clean actually. Soon I will install a Racor diesel filter for extra cleaning. The turbo install was only temporary. I have ordered and got new gaskets and a new exhaust bend. And I have the workshop manual and a momentum wrench to tight screws according to specs. I do agree that there must be no exhaust leakage. So I should paint the turbo, also on the hot side... I will investigate to get heat resistant paint then... So.. Thanks again :-)
Hello again, I have done a lot of sailing when I was younger and most of my working life was in the motor trade so I think I know a bit about engines in cars and boats, she looks very nice on the outside, she still needs her mast and other wooden bits to finish off but it's coming together. Did she have any structure or strength below the cabin roof at the foot of the mast, I think I can see some sort of plate where the mast sits on top of the roof but would be a little concerned if you have removed any important stress loading parts below deck that takes load under the mast, worth thinking about. At some stage it might be worth having her inspected by a marine specialist who would go through all the risks the boat has especially if you explain in great detail your re-build and what you have removed and replaced it sure would give me piece of mind if she were mine. Regards Alan
Hello again, Alan. Seems like you have a lot of sailing and boating experience. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! The masts will be erected again, I have all the bits and pieces. But a few things must first be fixed: 1) the teak-rail must be mounted as fittings to the standing rigging is attached to the hull though the teak. 2) The rotten plywood that stiffens up the cabin-top, where the mast is placed, must be changed. 3) The wall (bulkhead) that you so rightly point out are supporting the mast, must be re-made/checked. Also I should have the standing rigging checked by such a specialist, like you recommend. The hull, I will build more solid than it was, so that does not worry me. Regards, Helge.
. IT HAS TO BE A PRETTY GOOD VIDEO, For me to watch the entire thing while wondering if there was something wrong with my audio. Well, I hear the engine running. Nothing wrong with my audio!!! 🙂
Sorry for the silence of my videos. I have found that some videos have loud music that disturb the video. If I dont like the music, it´s even worse. And, being a Norwegian, I thought I would spare you for my english-with-a-norwegian-sound. But I guess I could input a very low and neutral background music and make a testvideo with my comments in speach instead of written text. Thanks for your input on this. I am trying to improve. :-)
@@hsobstad I thought it was really cool. I didn't know what to expect, but I was glued to the screen because I'm a shade-tree mechanic and I wanted to see how it all turned out. Also, I've never seen a boat with a hull design like that, so I wanted to see as much as I could so I just kept watching. Videos don't _need_ a full audio track if they're engaging and informative without one. 🙂
@@abcde_fz Thank you! That´s good to hear (read). My other videos are just as silent. The first one with this boat has a bad increase on sound as I started the engine. Be aware if you consider watching it. Getting slightly better on handling the digital tools now, but will improve. A man in his mid 50ies need some time to adjust.... 😀
Thanks for the input, Brunski. I have figured that the propeller is quite awailable from the dinghy, but maybe I should include a line cutter.... Hmmm.... :-)
If you'd left the propellor surface roughish... maybe anti-fouling paint would adhere and save you from having to scrub off algae and barnacles in the future?
I don't think there's many boaters antifoul their propellor, least I haven't seen many. Not sure of the reason but it's something to do with antifoul, bronze and galvanic reaction. Even giant ships leave them bare.
I'm the kind of guy who knows how most things are supposed to work in theory, and I could probably muck my through what I saw here, if the manual is good enough and I have time to think things through. But I sweat the little things like over and under torqueing bolts etc. Nice boat. I would like to know more about it.
You are right. The bolts are not torqued to specs, yet. I will change the exhaust-bend due to corrosion. The boat is a Fisher 30 Northeaster, 1976. There are specs online, just google. :-)
3:45 Der Turbo muss schon seit geraumer Zeit defekt gewesen sein; Die Ablagerungen entstehen nicht schon nach wenigen Betriebsstunden. 8:05 Wo ist der Ladeluftkühler? Es wäre genügend Kühlmedium vorhanden. Die Kühlbox könnte ein paar Pferde mehr mobilisieren und auch den Kraftstoffverbrauch senken.
I agree. That turbo has been stuck for a long time. Dere is no intercooler on this engine. Absolutely no need for more power, only need 60% of this engines output to reach maximum speed of this hull. But a reduction in fuel consumption would be good....
On a car engine I would agree with you. In a boat there is really no need for a dense filter as there are really no need for a fin-particle filter as there are no road-dust presented and very little of dust what so ever. But maybe a cleaner filter....? 😊
@@hsobstad Yes.. i know there is no dust. but that little cone filter is really restrikting airflow when turbo is working. Better to have less restriktion and you cannot have to big filter area :)
May have been running on rough bio diesel ? ... Exhaust sticky soot then chokes turbo ... May be worth draining fuel tanks cleaning and replacing fuel with entirely new known quality. ?
That is an interesting theory, Christopher. There are two reasons why I think the corrosion is due to seawater. 1 is the fact that a siphon valve is missing. 2 the bio-diesel is not yet in widely sale as boat-diesel, here in Norway. As your theory implies, many thinks it will be quite harmful for diesel-engines. Thanks for your input.
Hi Keith. Great to read that you also have a Fisher 30. I would prefer to have a naturally aspirated engine. One less ting to worry about (the turbo charger). 1800 is great rpm as it is not to stressful to listen to... :-)
Always prime the turbo with oil before fitting the oil pipe and starting the engine so the bearings don't run dry till oil pressure is up to turbo.Yeh,it's only a short time,but why compromise a new turbo bearings ?
Absolutely, Vincent. But on a micro-level. Barnacles will do more "damage" and also different kinds of anti-fouling will build small layers of different thickness.
Hi Blimp I see that you did not mount the zincanodes flush with hull. Will they not catch seaweed and other drifting debris? Nice project though, looking forward to follow your channel. Greetings from Denmark
Hi Hans from Denmark. You are absolutely right. The reason is that they are through-bolted, with the possibility to change the zinc-anodes while being on the water. This is identical to the original design. The point of the through-bolting is to attach electrical to the anode from the inside of the hull, with wiring from through-hulls, shaft-tube etc. :-)
I was surprised that you did not use an anti seize compound on the threads, nor a sealant on the gaskets? But what would I know, my knuckles are full of arthritis from those activities....
You are right about that, Graham. The mount is temporary, just to test the turbo. I have now got new gaskets and a new exhaust bend. I guess i should also use a torque wrench for final mount...
Due to failing to install a siphon-valve. That caused the exhaust to fill up with seawater, up to the level of the turbo (but not high enough to enter into the engine).
Just watch the video and see the clear explanation. It must drive creators crazy to carefully explain something and then lazy people have to ask a question about the exact thing that was explained.
Nice video, has that boat been used in ocean water before? that much corrosion from water in the turbo from just 4 years seems to make sense if that’s the case, that stuff makes short work of metal! But I’m not sure, I’ve never dealt with a waterlogged turbo before lol
I think it has only cruised the fjords of northern Norway, prior to my ownership. This corrosion is due to not installing a siphon-valve, hence letting seawater leaking into the exhaust and up near the turbo...
It’s very common to fit bigger propellers at engines . This to fit the boat for more torque and les rpm. So it not said the max rpm most be sufficient for the boat. That’s Bs. It can be the case that you hull speed does not anew faster / more rpm but needs the torque to make it go in rough sea.
It seems to me the new and smooth propeller is more effective. So it does 6 knots on 1500-1600 rpm. And up to 7.5 knots on full throttle. Measured on my mobile, using the app: tcspeeds. 7.5 is really higher than I thought it would go... But this was just a simple test, not taken into consideration current and wind.
@@Transit67F2 An excellent point, Peter. However, there might be a problem. Her name is "Marco Polo", an historical person, a man as far as I have understood. Is it then: "Her name is Marco Polo"? A hard puzzle, as she has had that name since brand new. Changing to a female name? Or just mix? But I get your point. 🙂
Turbo's normally don't like a split second running with out oil if it's oil cooled or not as important water if water cooled, the water cooled turbo's as far as i'm aware are rare these days mainly because the bearings had to be designed to be lubricated for life at the factory therefore oil cooled became the norm, I hope that the oil managed to lube the turbo before any damage was done. If you check in the box the turbo came in I would be very surprised if there wasn't a warning notice to prime the turbo with oil before starting the engine, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you, let me know if you find that notice, if it's not there speak to your turbo supplier because I would say it is a DUTY OF CARE to provide a warning notice, a lot of back street garages have come unstuck fitting turbo's to cars without reading the warning leaflet and then there is NO WARRANTY on the turbo, the TURBO factory can inspect and tell at a glance if it's been starved of oil. Regards Alan
Thanks for following up, Alan. I have no other than myself to blame here. The instructions are according to what you have expressed here. This is what happens when trying to do too much at the same time. Both mechanics and youtubing... I will just have to see what happens. If it fails I will have to take the cost of having the turbo overhauled. :-)
I would highly recommend a carbon clean with the turbo not working for god knows how long it’s carboned up bad will also help with fuel efficiency a little bit it’s running way better now tho 👍🏻
Thanks for your recommendation, Clint. Behind the soot/carbon built up there were actually a lot of corrosion, unfortunately. I got a strong feedback from the turbo workshop that the repair cost would go beyond the cost for a new unit. However I have kept the old turbo, so I might try carbon clean, as you recommend. :-)
Mainly due to the fact that a siphon valve was not mounted. That made the exhaust fill up with raw-water, ut right underneath the turbo, when the engine was not in use. Hardly using the engine did not help. Heavy corrosion ruined the turbo and badly damaged the exhaust bend.
Good thing it didn't start right up with the new turbo fitted as it would have spun up with a dry bearing - alway put some oil into the lubrication port before connecting the oil line with a new turbo
@@hsobstad Don't worry, as the engine didn't start up right away it probably had enough time to deliver some oil to the bearing as the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. Without exhaust gasses the turbo won't see any high rpm which shouldn't do any damage after a few seconds. Keep it up ;)
When you have been running at high revs, let your engine tick over for a while before you switch off to let the turbo cool down. (But you probably know that!)
Hi Bill. Good point. I know several people having burned their turbos due to cutting oil-supply to (almost) red-hot turbos, by switching off the engine to early. In this video the turbo is not stressed more than a few seconds. Still a good point! :-)
@@hsobstad Also if you throttle back all the way after a hard run, the engine is at its hottest and suddenly there is almost no water going through the coolers. Ive allways tried to bring the revs up slowly and the same back down. When I moored in a bay with a swell coming in we fitted a valve on the exaust to stop the water coming back up the exaust when the stern dipped down in bad weather.
@@Graham19951 You have two very good points, Graham. Engine-wise, in this videoclip I am testing an emergency stop, with just a moderate warm engine. So it is no problem for the engine. But I should have warned viewers vs your point. The exhaust valve you suggest is a brilliant idea. I will check for such a part to install. Do you know of any? Thanks, Graham! 😊👍
Do you mean zinc anodes on the engine or those on the hull? I can answer both of course. On the engine there is only one, situated on the exhaust behind the turbo. On the hull there are one large "main" zinc on the port stern, serving several pieces of metal, as propeller shaft-tube, rudder-shaft and several through-hulls. One on the propeller-tip. And one on the bow-thruster.
Thanks for your input, Jacob. I am not skilled to do that work, and since my hometown of Bergen (2nd largest in Norway) is small there are very limited resources/skills available locally. The old propeller is also quite corroded/rough on the surface and - as presented in the video - way to large. So I am happy to have a new propeller.
![STORM FORCE @ CAPE HORN [Ep. 108]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PTuSJpQ2Ie8/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this video series - no talking, no blather, just the work then before & after.
Yes, thanks, but that changed in episode 10. Sorry for that. 😉
Blimp, I worked on my Tresfjord 28 all winter. New shaft, prop, cutlass bearing. That was a job as I had to remove stern tube. My story is same as yours. Could not get up to revs with my Volvo Penta D75-2. Back out of the water different prop. Same result. Back out of water. Yep , turbo froze like yours. New turbo from Sweden, (best price) stainless riser from UK. Now plenty of power and up to revs. Now 10:10 new problem. Shaft deflection at max revs. Project this week is install shaft support bearing near stuffing box. Umm, always something. Thanks for the video! Brad
Hi Bradley! Thanks for you comment. I have blamed myself for not thinking about checking the turbo before buying a new propeller. Once get stuck on one thought.... So your propeller-shaft is bends/deflects at max rpm. Is that due to engine vibration (like on mine) or a shaft underrated for your engine power? So the support-bearing should solve this?
Previous owner repowered and this engine has additional 20 hp. I found that the length of shaft exceeds engineering calculations for single support. There is this really brilliant on line calculator found at R.E. Thomas Hardware. You put in you data and it calculates maximum length, diameter and so forth. So yes this support should solve the problem. And like you I should have checked the turbo first. My engine only had 150 hrs so I did not even consider, however the boat sat under a tree for 4 years! Going on the hard Wednesday so I’ll let you know how it goes!
@@bradleyroberson1074 Please do. This is interesting to follow. BTW, my engine has only 192 hours, so much the same considerations.... 🙂
Good Morning Blimp. Big day today. On the lift at 0800. Removed rudder, disconnected coupling and old stuffing assembly. Pulled shaft back so I could install my prefabbed bearing and PSS assembly. Rudder back on with new 316 SS bolts. In the water at 1400. All worked as it should. No leaks. Full revs to 3000 rpm with the new turbo assembly. The second cutlass bearing right behind the PSS packing really helped. Whilst hanging down in the bilge I did find the stb aft motor mount bolt loose. I suspect at WOT that comer of the engine might have be lifting up a bit? Well I hope that’s it for a while. Now it’s time for some liquid refreshment!
Hi Bradley. Great to see (read) that your work served it´s purpose. Interesting that you actually have a second cutlass bearing in the propeller-tube. I have never heard about that. But it worked. And you have a PSS shaft seal. I am considering that, to change from the present vintage seal. I have a PSS shaft seal in my Rhea 900, but that is much less waterpressure as it is a shallow draft. On the fisher I guess the shaft is about 90 cm below sea-level. Thanks for info, and enjoy your well deserved liquid refreshment! (I would picked beer. But I also know gentlemen Fisher-owners prefer gin/tonic 🙂
Very nicely built document!
Well done...a lot of work but shes looking like a new boat... 👍🏼😎
And what a great boat to dream with and DO with. A good friend crossed the Atlantic on one. Rhumb line from England to Florida. I love the lines. The most forgotten part of the drive train equation is the REDUCTON GEAR. The bigger prop that you can turn, the less slippage and better propulsion you get, epically in heave going with wind and seas against you. A 3:1 reduction and bigger prop would even be better than what you have. Much better. But what you have is good. Even at 2300 rpm you were pushing hull speed! So you should do very well at 2800. Enjoy that wonderful go anywhere boat.
Thanks for your positive comment. Extremely cool that your friend has done a crossing with a Fisher. I agree that a slower turning propeller is better (and looks cooler too). Going from 2.47:1 to 3:1 is however not a great change, but enough that I would have to change the propeller shaft to a larger diameter. If I were to do that I might as well go 4:1 :-)
I think - as you also write - I will be fine with the present setup. :-)
@@hsobstad My how I love these boats. So beautiful. And yes, you are right. The good news is that what is so often the limiting factor is prop clearances on the hull or aperture. You have good room there!
Just lovely I've always liked Fisher's , looking a treat happy days
Learning the lines is looking over a 37 in the US...plugging you in blimp.😎😉
Thanks Clive. Just watched it now. The 37s are really nice boats. And heavy with their 15 metric tonnes. My little F30 is quite enough for me 🙂
Aaaaah...memories. It's true what they say about the two happiest days in a mariner's life being the day they bought their dream boat and the day they sold it. I do my cruising in a canoe these days and enjoy it just as much and for a fraction of the cost.
They say the greatest pleasures you will find in the smaller things. That may very well be true for boating as well. Smaller boat is also smaller worries and lower costs... :-)
Some of use could not get into a canoe now😀.
@@ianscott3180 I feel your pain, and my own. After 25 years, due to a debilitating injury, I sold my gorgeous 32' full keeled sloop and bought a beater canoe which I refitted to a very high standard, complete with sprit rig and leeboard. Now I do week plus long cruises on the biggest lake in Algonquin Park because portaging is out of the question. It's an absolute paradise and I've never been happier.
Canoe maintenance zero. Costs for accessories: roof rack on car, rope tie down points 4 corners of car, rope to tie down, one rope at either bow or stern, PFD's adult & maybe child, paddles, knee pads and those are all one time costs and many years between replacements. Before canoeing I backpacked where weight is very tightly controlled. I looked at canoeing as a way to easily carry as much as I wanted. Then in even a small sailboat I can carry what I used to consider huge amount of weight and now is trivial.
What about rest of Fisher? There are so many systems if other systems were mostly ok then yes the boat including engine needed only light maintenance as advertised.
@@budbuddybuddest I so were, than you would be right. My 5 or 6 earlier videos of the refurbishment should document my claim, I guess. These videos are very compact and amateurish but they are focusing some of the major issues. Thank you for watching and commenting. 🙂
cute boat, nice job! i would like to get the interior tour.
Thanks for your comments (on three videos). The old interior is shown on the early videos. Now the boat has no interior; that is to come later. :-)
@@hsobstad now that i see more of the boat and the problems, it doesn't seem worth all your effort- too much time and expense.
@@user-sf9pq5ox7w That is of course right, if you do a common sense calculation. But this boat represents feelings and dreams. That makes all the difference... 🙂
@@hsobstad ok, don't ruin your health doing it, especially your lungs. Good luck!
@@user-sf9pq5ox7w Yes, I am trying to take care. Working with a boat is also mental care, which is also important. Do things you like!
Bro…I watch videos like this religiously. Hope to have a boat myself in a few years. This was the BEST video I ever watched. No talking. Just information. Please do more!
Thanks, Rey, for your kind words. I will do my very best to continue making informative videos from my work on the boat.
Absolutely lovely boat. And lovely video...
Keep her happy, that one
Thanks, Kurt! I will do!
Love this type of restoring/maintenance videos.
Very cool boat my friend! glad you figured it out :) turbos aren't cheap, but a lot better than a whole new engine!
Thank you for your kind feedback! :-)
Brought back childhood aggravations and chipped knuckle memories. Learned a lot about the tractor engine in our 40' Morgan as a teenager. I never want to be involved in a yard hull restoration ever again in my life. You did indeed awaken the itch for the sea though lol. Enjoy the good life!
Thanks for your story. This boats engine is actually also a tractor engine (Kubota). I enjoy this restauration process as particles of the good life. And I dream about the day I can sail away :-)
@@hsobstad...sweet ride.
Is that Catalina harbor? I've never seen the west coast, sure would love to.
Is she live aboard now...new sub?!
@@philgiglio7922 It´s the west coast, yes....of Norway. So quite far away from Catalina harbour. This is Bergen, the 2nd largest city in Norway, still town-sized for the rest of the world. The boat is unfortunately far away from finished as the interior had to be removed due to rot. Feel free to check out some of the early videos where this topic is slightly covered. 🙂
Super boat. Look how flat the wake is. That's a good hull.
That is a kind comment, thanks! :-)
Cheers for the update Marty Australia
What a great boat and equally a great restoration, loving the VLOGS
I guess fuel consumption also improved good with an engine in good shape , lovely boat ; lovely video thanks for that
Probably, Bart. However I will not know, yet, as I need to pull the engine due to a bad engine mount. Thanks for your kind comments.
Great video production
God i love this style of boat especially with the ketch rig set up, go anywhere in it and in comfort
This is also what my dream is built on. Loving the style and going most anywhere - in slow motion.
@@hsobstad
Have you seen the u tube of one of these really pressing on under full big sails...its shifting through the water...
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 I have seen what I thing is a 34 under sail. Never seen a video of "my" Fisher 30 Northeaster though... If you leave a link I will be happy to watch it 🙂
@@hsobstad
It may be the 34 it had redbrown sails and was cracking on at a damn good rate of knots. If i can find it i will. I think it came down to sail area and make.. and giving it its head.
БЕРЕГИТЕ.ЛЕГКИЕ.ПЫЛЬ СТЕКЛОВОЛОКНА.ОПАСНА ДЛЯ ДЫХАТЕЛЬНОЙ СИСТЕМЫ ЧЕЛОВЕКА. ЖЕЛАЮ УДАЧИ МУЖЕСТВЕННОМУ .ВИКИНГУ. С УВАЖЕНИЕМ К ВАМ.
A beautiful looking craft.
Always liked the look of the Fisher
Me too, Jabiru. Ever since I was a young boy. That is probably why I acted on this ad, without really thinking it through. :-D
Insightful and genius commentary was refreshing 😂😊!
Thank you, Jim. I have started talking on the videos now. Might be a new low point for some 😉
Nice new Turbo, shiny! Great video, thanks
I'd suggest fitting a boost gauge. First because it'll let you know your turbo is working ok but more importantly if the wastegate seizes causing an overboost , you can catch it before your engine disintegrates or melts holes in pistons.
I'd at least recommend regularly checking the wastegate can move freely.
Thanks, Daithi, for your very good advice. I will definitely check the turbo regularly! :-)
Hi Blimp you asked about a valve on the exaust. Nothing fancy , just a normal gate valve like on a skin fitting. Put a couple of hose fittings on it and cut the hose and install with double hose clips. If you want to pay extra you can get very slim valves , we used to use these on our 200 mm shellfish tank overboards. But normal ones will do fine.
Ahh... So you close the valve from the inside of the boat? My exhaust hose is 3 inch diameter. That is a huge valve. I think I should consider a one-way pop-up valve. Do you know if such a valve is in production? Thanks, Graham! 😊
@@hsobstad Thats a tiny valve , we use up to eight inch. Just a normal brass lever valve works fine.
Awesome lil ship for sure 😊
Well done and a help for others. Thanks!
Thanks for telling me, Frank. :-)
Love the lack of wake! Beautiful. How a boat should be!
Nicely done
Good job !!!
I love this kind of boat !!!
Thanks! Doing my best to keep up. :-)
Thanks Blimp, great to see your boat looking ship shape and at peak performance. Let us know how you get on. Best wishes.
Thank you, John. I will continue to document the renovation process.
100 rpm below peak.
@@teeanahera8949 You are right about that, Tee. The new propeller is still ever so slightly on the large side. But I will test it for some time and see if it works okay. Might be a problem when the barnacles makes the propeller heavier to turn...🙂
Interesting boat. Would like full tour
Hi William. Full tour as of now is not particularly interesting as the boat is almost completely ripped out on the inside. On this video is a presentation of the boat, both inside and out. Be aware of some noice when the engine starts, about mid in the video. (amateurish of me - but I improve a bit for every video I hope). Video: ruclips.net/video/4sqicce51uY/видео.html
Air filter looks dirty. You might gain that extra 100 rpm with a clean one!
Thanks Mike (Mike). I will try cleaning it. Maybe take a careful run without filter, just to test. Great input.
Well done and very interesting. Looking forward to more!☘️👍
100 rpm. I would happily go with that. Shows the prop has got it loaded up properly and the engine is working as in working as in loaded up nicely. Being a Turbo i would suggest running at a constant 2,000 rpm plus. Keep the Turbo very hot and boosting continuously. Could hear the Turbo spooling up when you gave it to it. Mitsubishi make a beautiful diesel engine. Will keep going for decades providing you service it and run it reasonably hard as i suggested.
Thanks for your advice, David. This engine is actually a Kubota engine, used in medium-sized tractors if I have got it right. Nanni makes them into boat-engines. I recon Kubota buys the turbos from Mitsubishi due to not making turbos themselves. :-)
Just remembered, most of this kind and style of boat would have had a "compression post" is what they call it, from the cabin floor to the cabin roof under the foot of the mast to take the weight and forces produced by the mast and all its rigging, don't forget the mast will be under a lot of downward stress even without sailing her, the mast stays will be very tight to keep the mast rigid and under sail she will have forces going from side to side when jibing there will be a lot of weight, mast, boom, sails and sheets etc. Regards Alan
In the other respons to your kind input, I explain that there are such a "compression post", a wall/bulkhead, and I will keep the support underneath the mast. Thanks again, Alan.
I love that boat, it's beautiful. thanks for sharing this.
I wish that you could have showed us inside of that boat !!
Hi. You should get a sense of the inside in this video: ruclips.net/video/4sqicce51uY/видео.html (turn down sound - as the engine will suddenly kick in)
Nice boat love the style
Fantastic! Back to peak performance.
100 rpm below peak.
I love the shape of that boat. I think it would be very seaworthy by the look of it. I’m no expert but this boat has great freeboard and beam and would handle anything that Lake Simcoe in Ontario Canada would throw at it. 👍👍🇨🇦
That is probably correct, Rick. Half of its weight of 6.6 metric tonnes is ballast in the keel of the boat. It has a comfort-ratio of about 43, listing it as a heavy bluewater boat. And a capsize screening of 1.5, listing it as well suited for ocean passages. (source: Sailboat.guide). But this is all statistics. It still needs a good captain, taking weather-reports into all considerations. I hope I one day will se Lake Simcoe. Sure sounds like a "near nature experience". :-)
@@hsobstad I have read some of the other replies and agree with all of them....Words applied in broken English or not are necessary to become educated about what one is being exposed to
Whether you decide to narrate or not is immaterial Love that style / model of boat and will watch no matter what
@@alanvotta3847 Thanks for your input, Alan. I might start by commenting after filming.... 🙂
Well, now you know what light maintenance means😊.
Your boat is a gem! Hope you enjoy for many years to come.
The wood you’re showing at the end, I presume it’s the gunwhales. As no fenders were used, I suppose they’re there to protect and be replaced frequently. Some sort of an ecological fender?
Cheers
I sure do! The wood is actually what the engine is resting on. And that is not a good thing! It is shaking a lot and I need to adress this issue in the near future. The gunwales are also to be renewed as they were in bad condition, so your point is valid. I will however protect them by using ordinary plastic/rubber fenders.
needs a bigger turbo like a huge turbo and a tuner program .
Hmmmm.... 👍 Might increase speed from 6.7 to 6.9 knots.
This is no racing ship and the turbo is identical to the original one.
With those round chines I wonder if she's a roller in any kind of seaway. Of course the full keel is a big stabilizing factor. Nice boat.
You are on to something, Ralph. I have heard these Fishers roll a lot. So up with the sails to stabilise even when running the engine.
Enjoyed that and I have subscribed, I now need to catch up on this story from the beginning. I would not kick yourself too hard on the troubleshooting - all problems seem obvious - when viewed in the rear view mirror.😉😀👍 BTW: Dylan Winter (Keep Turning Left = YT channel) has a Fisher, he has not posted anything in the last year though.🤷♂️
Thanks, Norman. It is satisfying to fix things, even though missing the optimal solution. I guess that is what refurbishing is all about. I have seen some of the video´s from KeepTurningLeft. Yes, it´s a Fisher 25. Please forgive the amateurish level on the videos. I am improving.... :-)
Would it be possible to see the interior of the boat and learn more of its history?
Hi Michael. The interior is now removed as it was ruined by moisture. But the first video I made from the boat has a presentation of the boat, including the old interior. The history of the boat is in short terms: It has lived its life in the north of Norway, and had 4 owners from the same area. It has been named "Marco Polo" the entire time as far as I understood. I bought it from the 4th owner and got it transported to south/western Norway. It needs a lot of work to sail again. Hence these videos :-)
What a sweet little boat.
I would suggest using blue loctite for the turbo screws. And a momentum wrench.
Thanks for you suggestion, Ton. I will definitely use a momentum wrench when I do the final mounting. There was a exhaust leak so I have ordered new gaskets, and also a new exhaust bend, as the old was quite corroded. Do you think blue Loctite will stand the heat?
There ia a loctite like fastening fluid available for high temperatures. A locknut might also do the trick. Or use two nuts and turn it tight against the other.
@@TonVerkleijT3 Thanks again, Ton. I will fasten it well, and according to your suggestion.
Nice boat! It's very satisfying to resolve problems on old boats. What's next?
Thanks, Duncan. Next is fixing the fundation that the engine is mounted on (must pull out the engine). And also the old worn-out teak-rails is an issue.... And lots of other stuff... :-)
@@hsobstad Ah yes, lots more fun ahead. I also have a hopeless addiction to things that float. I hope it goes smoothly. 🙂
@@duncanjames914 Oh, I am sure I will meet plenty of problems/obstacles during the refit. But that´s what refit is all about. This way one will love (or hate) the boat even more when finished (boats never finishes...!)
@@hsobstad My thoughts exactly. It's part of the fun when messing around with boats. Sometimes what appears to be straightforward becomes increasingly complicated, yet we continue the pursuit. Enjoy.
Lovely vessel! Thanks.
beautiful boat!
On a vessel like This a large reduction gear and large prop are essential. So glad you only had to go down an inch. Ideal would be a larger prop with more reduction to allow full RPM. It’s all about minimizing slippage. I has a Cal ll-46 with an 85 hp Perkins 4-236. And a 2,8:1 reduction fixed 26” 3 blade. It was a ketch that motored as good as a trawler yet I made 200 mile days under sail. The fixed prop was never much of an issue for me. She could sail. I had a shaft lock as the hydraulic Borg Warner transmission would free wheel otherwise. Loved that boat. If you want to bash into conditions you need a large reduction and a large prop. I had a Fisher 37 under contract but she had too small a prop and reduction. The engine failed survey so I didn’t buy her. Got the Cal instead. Very glad I did, but I do have a soft spot for the Fishers. What is your HP? Thanks.
Hi Fred. Nice to read your story. Your Cal II-46 is a long-keeled ship. Probably a way better sailer then my Fisher. Quite large windows in that boat. Makes spaces feel really open. This Fisher has a 60hp Nanni Nogva N4.60 engine. It is a quite slow-rewing engine, with 2800rpm on max. The gear-ratio is 2.47:1. The gear is made for having the propeller spinning while sailing (I have had that confirmed from the main distributor). :-)
@@hsobstad 60 very good for that boat. Should motor well, and as she is a motor sailor that’s very good. A good friend of mine bought a Fisher 32 or 3 in England and sailed/ motored her accross the Atlantic non stop to Ft Lauderdale Fl. He pretty much took the rhumb line and motored right through the Bermuda High. He single handed and had a good trip. They are very capable boats.
@@roadboat9216 Thanks, Fred. That sounds reassuring for my future sailing on this boat. A lot of work ahead though.... 🙂
If you would narrate a little....you take so many of us into paradise and you should be blabbing away for our total enjoyment
Hi Alan. I am not sure a man in his mid-fifties, babbling away, english with a hint of Norwegian, would be a delight. :-D. Do you still thing I should consider that? :-)
Most definitely......do you realize how many videos excel because of the human voice touch does not have to be perfect
Next video is out. This time with human voice - me "babbling away", from your advice. So lets see how that goes ;-)
@@hsobstad I changed my mind....Just kidding! Can't wait until the great unveiling
It will be fantastic BRAVO
Well done with fitting the new turbo the first bolts you fitted are they upside down ie nut on top would that have helped . invest in some ratchet spanners would help a lot better. 10/ 10 for video and effort
Thanks for your kind feedback. I hope you like my other videos on this boat as well.
Yes, the first bolts for the oil-supply cable were pointing upwards. The problem were the inner screw, towards the engine. VERY tight space 😊
Turbos will not stand long for dirty/contaminated fuel. Get a clear jar and run a pint or so into that jar and let it settle out to see if it is clean before filling the tank. The hot side of your new turbo was corroded. Get that resurfaced. It looked as though you re-used an exhaust gasket. You did not use, or at least I did not see, a torque wrench to tighten to spec. It looked as though old bolts were used. Once a bolt has been tightened to yield, it is untrustworthy. Any of those things can cause a hot exhaust leak. That is not good in a small engine compartment.
That was a good video, and your boat looks to be a comfortable, sea-kindly workhorse. I believe she is in good hands. Fair winds, sir.
Thank you for your advice and comments.
I have checked the fuel and it was very clean actually. Soon I will install a Racor diesel filter for extra cleaning.
The turbo install was only temporary. I have ordered and got new gaskets and a new exhaust bend. And I have the workshop manual and a momentum wrench to tight screws according to specs. I do agree that there must be no exhaust leakage.
So I should paint the turbo, also on the hot side... I will investigate to get heat resistant paint then...
So.. Thanks again :-)
Hello again, I have done a lot of sailing when I was younger and most of my working life was in the motor trade so I think I know a bit about engines in cars and boats, she looks very nice on the outside, she still needs her mast and other wooden bits to finish off but it's coming together. Did she have any structure or strength below the cabin roof at the foot of the mast, I think I can see some sort of plate where the mast sits on top of the roof but would be a little concerned if you have removed any important stress loading parts below deck that takes load under the mast, worth thinking about. At some stage it might be worth having her inspected by a marine specialist who would go through all the risks the boat has especially if you explain in great detail your re-build and what you have removed and replaced it sure would give me piece of mind if she were mine. Regards Alan
Hello again, Alan. Seems like you have a lot of sailing and boating experience. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
The masts will be erected again, I have all the bits and pieces. But a few things must first be fixed: 1) the teak-rail must be mounted as fittings to the standing rigging is attached to the hull though the teak. 2) The rotten plywood that stiffens up the cabin-top, where the mast is placed, must be changed. 3) The wall (bulkhead) that you so rightly point out are supporting the mast, must be re-made/checked.
Also I should have the standing rigging checked by such a specialist, like you recommend. The hull, I will build more solid than it was, so that does not worry me. Regards, Helge.
Handsome boat
. IT HAS TO BE A PRETTY GOOD VIDEO,
For me to watch the entire thing
while wondering if there was something wrong with my audio.
Well, I hear the engine running. Nothing wrong with my audio!!! 🙂
Sorry for the silence of my videos. I have found that some videos have loud music that disturb the video. If I dont like the music, it´s even worse. And, being a Norwegian, I thought I would spare you for my english-with-a-norwegian-sound. But I guess I could input a very low and neutral background music and make a testvideo with my comments in speach instead of written text. Thanks for your input on this. I am trying to improve. :-)
@@hsobstad I thought it was really cool. I didn't know what to expect, but I was glued to the screen because I'm a shade-tree mechanic and I wanted to see how it all turned out. Also, I've never seen a boat with a hull design like that, so I wanted to see as much as I could so I just kept watching. Videos don't _need_ a full audio track if they're engaging and informative without one.
🙂
@@abcde_fz Thank you! That´s good to hear (read). My other videos are just as silent. The first one with this boat has a bad increase on sound as I started the engine. Be aware if you consider watching it. Getting slightly better on handling the digital tools now, but will improve. A man in his mid 50ies need some time to adjust.... 😀
Lovely video! Have you considered adding a line cutter just before the propeller?
Thanks for the input, Brunski. I have figured that the propeller is quite awailable from the dinghy, but maybe I should include a line cutter.... Hmmm.... :-)
Time for a ratchet set my friend😊
Yes! I realise I do look a bit lost with my minimalistic tools. Do have, but forgot all about it. Soo...there I was! ;-D
Well done
If you'd left the propellor surface roughish...
maybe anti-fouling paint would adhere and save you from having to scrub off algae and barnacles in the future?
True, John. But I prefer not to anti-foul the propeller. Or at least I did. I will consider your input. Thanks! 😊
I don't think there's many boaters antifoul their propellor, least I haven't seen many.
Not sure of the reason but it's something to do with antifoul, bronze and galvanic reaction. Even giant ships leave them bare.
@@spearmint47 Agree. I will not antifoul unless absolutely sure.... 🙂
Looks like the right person owns the boat now. She just needs some long over do TLC.
I'm the kind of guy who knows how most things are supposed to work in theory, and I could probably muck my through what I saw here, if the manual is good enough and I have time to think things through. But I sweat the little things like over and under torqueing bolts etc. Nice boat. I would like to know more about it.
You are right. The bolts are not torqued to specs, yet. I will change the exhaust-bend due to corrosion. The boat is a Fisher 30 Northeaster, 1976. There are specs online, just google. :-)
Just buy a decent torque wrench with a digital/audible output!!
@@edguy3097 Will do, Ed! 🙂
3:45 Der Turbo muss schon seit geraumer Zeit defekt gewesen sein; Die Ablagerungen entstehen nicht schon nach wenigen Betriebsstunden.
8:05 Wo ist der Ladeluftkühler? Es wäre genügend Kühlmedium vorhanden. Die Kühlbox könnte ein paar Pferde mehr mobilisieren und auch den Kraftstoffverbrauch senken.
I agree. That turbo has been stuck for a long time. Dere is no intercooler on this engine. Absolutely no need for more power, only need 60% of this engines output to reach maximum speed of this hull. But a reduction in fuel consumption would be good....
I have enjoyed this .
That is great to hear (read). Thanks for telling me.
Raw 4x4s for engine beds, I like
Yeees...., Chris. Especially when balancing them on 2.5 inch bed underneath.
Btw deck looks really good too
Thanks, will improve further in time. :-)
only one thing... install a bigger airbox and filter, go to a scrapyard and buy from a old Volvo 7/900 series.. better engine life and cleaner air
On a car engine I would agree with you. In a boat there is really no need for a dense filter as there are really no need for a fin-particle filter as there are no road-dust presented and very little of dust what so ever. But maybe a cleaner filter....? 😊
@@hsobstad Yes.. i know there is no dust. but that little cone filter is really restrikting airflow when turbo is working. Better to have less restriktion and
you cannot have to big filter area :)
@@tomkomloy2402 That makes sense. I will look into that (but not now). Thanks!
Ah ,the joy of buying . Ah the joy of selling .
Oh yes, Geoffrey. The two best days of owning a boat - or so they say. :-D
May have been running on rough bio diesel ? ... Exhaust sticky soot then chokes turbo ... May be worth draining fuel tanks cleaning and replacing fuel with entirely new known quality. ?
That is an interesting theory, Christopher. There are two reasons why I think the corrosion is due to seawater. 1 is the fact that a siphon valve is missing. 2 the bio-diesel is not yet in widely sale as boat-diesel, here in Norway. As your theory implies, many thinks it will be quite harmful for diesel-engines. Thanks for your input.
i've got a fisher 30 fitted with a beta 50.....actually 43hp naturally aspirated,hit hull speed at just over 1800 rpm
Hi Keith. Great to read that you also have a Fisher 30. I would prefer to have a naturally aspirated engine. One less ting to worry about (the turbo charger). 1800 is great rpm as it is not to stressful to listen to... :-)
Always prime the turbo with oil before fitting the oil pipe and starting the engine so the bearings don't run dry till oil pressure is up to turbo.Yeh,it's only a short time,but why compromise a new turbo bearings ?
Yes...well I did´nt think of that. Do now! :-)
Polishing it, wouldn’t that unbalance the prop?🇬🇧🏴
Absolutely, Vincent. But on a micro-level. Barnacles will do more "damage" and also different kinds of anti-fouling will build small layers of different thickness.
Can that flange clamp be fitted the other way up? Then you could get to it with sockets!
Hi Chris. Could you possibly specify which clamp that is? (might be a language-barrier here, for me being Norwegian).
I know you didn't leave that gasket off when you bolted up the turbo! Did you?
Nope, but I used the old gasket that was quite corroded. I have ordered a new set of gaskets and will change both the gaskets.
Hermoso barco
Sweet boat!
Hi Blimp
I see that you did not mount the zincanodes flush with hull. Will they not catch seaweed and other drifting debris?
Nice project though, looking forward to follow your channel.
Greetings from Denmark
Hi Hans from Denmark. You are absolutely right. The reason is that they are through-bolted, with the possibility to change the zinc-anodes while being on the water. This is identical to the original design. The point of the through-bolting is to attach electrical to the anode from the inside of the hull, with wiring from through-hulls, shaft-tube etc. :-)
I was surprised that you did not use an anti seize compound on the threads, nor a sealant on the gaskets? But what would I know, my knuckles are full of arthritis from those activities....
You are right about that, Graham. The mount is temporary, just to test the turbo. I have now got new gaskets and a new exhaust bend. I guess i should also use a torque wrench for final mount...
Punch it poncho... jk good job buddy looks awesome its getting there i like the tri too... btw, Ill try anything once
Thanks, Frankie 👍
its good to make your own tools !!!!
Yes, and often way cheaper... :-)
Did i miss the cause of the turbo fali, that being?
Due to failing to install a siphon-valve. That caused the exhaust to fill up with seawater, up to the level of the turbo (but not high enough to enter into the engine).
Just watch the video and see the clear explanation. It must drive creators crazy to carefully explain something and then lazy people have to ask a question about the exact thing that was explained.
Nice video, has that boat been used in ocean water before? that much corrosion from water in the turbo from just 4 years seems to make sense if that’s the case, that stuff makes short work of metal!
But I’m not sure, I’ve never dealt with a waterlogged turbo before lol
I think it has only cruised the fjords of northern Norway, prior to my ownership. This corrosion is due to not installing a siphon-valve, hence letting seawater leaking into the exhaust and up near the turbo...
It’s very common to fit bigger propellers at engines . This to fit the boat for more torque and les rpm.
So it not said the max rpm most be sufficient for the boat. That’s Bs.
It can be the case that you hull speed does not anew faster / more rpm but needs the torque to make it go in rough sea.
That is also what the previous owner said. After changing the engine the boat was better up against the wind and sea.
Har sett denne båten flere ganger i neptun !
Ligger 3 båser vekke i en Unique 900
Verden er av og til liten. Det er korrekt at den befinner seg i Neptun. :-)
That's better. Any idea how many knots she does now that you have got those issues sorted out? Thanks for the uploads; she's looking great.
It seems to me the new and smooth propeller is more effective. So it does 6 knots on 1500-1600 rpm. And up to 7.5 knots on full throttle. Measured on my mobile, using the app: tcspeeds. 7.5 is really higher than I thought it would go... But this was just a simple test, not taken into consideration current and wind.
@@hsobstad I wonder if slightly more performance could be expected if you call it her ;)
@@Transit67F2 An excellent point, Peter. However, there might be a problem. Her name is "Marco Polo", an historical person, a man as far as I have understood. Is it then: "Her name is Marco Polo"? A hard puzzle, as she has had that name since brand new. Changing to a female name? Or just mix? But I get your point. 🙂
@@hsobstad Ah yes I see...maybe 'they' ;)
@@Transit67F2 Never.
Dette må være ute i øyane, Ulsteinvik, Hareid eller noe lignende?
Ikke helt.... Bergen sentrum. :-)
Turbo's normally don't like a split second running with out oil if it's oil cooled or not as important water if water cooled, the water cooled turbo's as far as i'm aware are rare these days mainly because the bearings had to be designed to be lubricated for life at the factory therefore oil cooled became the norm, I hope that the oil managed to lube the turbo before any damage was done. If you check in the box the turbo came in I would be very surprised if there wasn't a warning notice to prime the turbo with oil before starting the engine, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you, let me know if you find that notice, if it's not there speak to your turbo supplier because I would say it is a DUTY OF CARE to provide a warning notice, a lot of back street garages have come unstuck fitting turbo's to cars without reading the warning leaflet and then there is NO WARRANTY on the turbo, the TURBO factory can inspect and tell at a glance if it's been starved of oil. Regards Alan
Thanks for following up, Alan. I have no other than myself to blame here. The instructions are according to what you have expressed here. This is what happens when trying to do too much at the same time. Both mechanics and youtubing...
I will just have to see what happens. If it fails I will have to take the cost of having the turbo overhauled. :-)
I would highly recommend a carbon clean with the turbo not working for god knows how long it’s carboned up bad will also help with fuel efficiency a little bit it’s running way better now tho 👍🏻
Thanks for your recommendation, Clint.
Behind the soot/carbon built up there were actually a lot of corrosion, unfortunately. I got a strong feedback from the turbo workshop that the repair cost would go beyond the cost for a new unit. However I have kept the old turbo, so I might try carbon clean, as you recommend. :-)
FYI do not tighten bolts until you have all threaded.
True. This was only a temp mount as I have ordered and now received new gaskets. Still appreciate your input.
Gick det inte att sandblästra den gamla turbon ?
Det var høy risiko å gå for (forsøk på) reparasjon. Ny turbo var da et bedre alternativ. Har tatt vare på den gamle turboen da...
But why was the first turbo so badly fouled? Was the oversized prop causing the engine to overload?
Mainly due to the fact that a siphon valve was not mounted. That made the exhaust fill up with raw-water, ut right underneath the turbo, when the engine was not in use. Hardly using the engine did not help. Heavy corrosion ruined the turbo and badly damaged the exhaust bend.
Good thing it didn't start right up with the new turbo fitted as it would have spun up with a dry bearing - alway put some oil into the lubrication port before connecting the oil line with a new turbo
That is correct! And guess who did not? So I fucked up. I wonder about the damage. 100% my own fault. Thanks for the input, anyway :-)
@@hsobstad Don't worry, as the engine didn't start up right away it probably had enough time to deliver some oil to the bearing as the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. Without exhaust gasses the turbo won't see any high rpm which shouldn't do any damage after a few seconds. Keep it up ;)
@@krautlab1638 Thank you for speaking (writing) comfortably to me. I hope the turbo is ok. 🙂
Why didn’t you reinstall the awkward turbo clamp bolt the other way up?
Ahh... Did´nt think of that at all, Allan. But I hope I need not to pay any attention to that for a long time now....
When you have been running at high revs, let your engine tick over for a while before you switch off to let the turbo cool down. (But you probably know that!)
Hi Bill. Good point. I know several people having burned their turbos due to cutting oil-supply to (almost) red-hot turbos, by switching off the engine to early. In this video the turbo is not stressed more than a few seconds. Still a good point! :-)
@@hsobstad Also if you throttle back all the way after a hard run, the engine is at its hottest and suddenly there is almost no water going through the coolers. Ive allways tried to bring the revs up slowly and the same back down. When I moored in a bay with a swell coming in we fitted a valve on the exaust to stop the water coming back up the exaust when the stern dipped down in bad weather.
@@Graham19951 You have two very good points, Graham. Engine-wise, in this videoclip I am testing an emergency stop, with just a moderate warm engine. So it is no problem for the engine. But I should have warned viewers vs your point.
The exhaust valve you suggest is a brilliant idea. I will check for such a part to install. Do you know of any? Thanks, Graham! 😊👍
Where are your zinc anodes?
Do you mean zinc anodes on the engine or those on the hull? I can answer both of course. On the engine there is only one, situated on the exhaust behind the turbo. On the hull there are one large "main" zinc on the port stern, serving several pieces of metal, as propeller shaft-tube, rudder-shaft and several through-hulls. One on the propeller-tip. And one on the bow-thruster.
You could have reduced the diameter of the old propeller quite easely. It´s also often done on commersial vessels.
Thanks for your input, Jacob. I am not skilled to do that work, and since my hometown of Bergen (2nd largest in Norway) is small there are very limited resources/skills available locally. The old propeller is also quite corroded/rough on the surface and - as presented in the video - way to large. So I am happy to have a new propeller.