Help ya boy out and get some some merch! Thanks for watching! If you want to support the channel for future videos get your merch at 🤟 Najaroffroad.com 🤟
Not needing a new steering stabilizer to fix wobble is false , i replaced everything you mentioned and still had it , decided to pay $36 for a new steering stabilizer and walaaaa! Deff wobble gone . Various combinations of damaged parts will change causes of wobble , deff had fun replacing these parts on my own though super easy ,thanx for the vid
Next time heat up the tube where the tie rod go's in with a blow torch. then clean the tube threads with the new joint using Copper Ease or anti seize paste, It will be easier putting it all back together.
I had a rare case of DW on my WJ. New ball joints, upper& lower adj. control arms, all new fox shocks all around, caster at 8 deg, every bushing and ball joints on TRE & DL replaced and are new, new tires balanced, trackbar and mount upper & lower reinforced with 1/4" plate with new 9/16" bolt w/ KOR bushings as tight as a virgin perfectly aligned with DL, zero bump steer, new redhead gear box with weld on steering brace plate, alignment by "professional", FOX 2.0 nitro stabilizer. Before I'd get DW at 55-60mph. After all of that I'd still get DW at 70+mph. (edit: also brand new hub bearings...not a single damn thing loose on the jeep) After all of that, I pinned the problem to overcharged FOX nitro stabilizer. It acts like a shock rather than a dampener...so when the tire hits a bump and has a mini air it slightly creates its own secret bump steer. But that was only half of the problem. The other one was TOE IN. There was a guy on youtube explained that you need a slight TOE out to cure the issue. So I release off some nitro from my stabilizer and toe out my front wheels by 1/8"...problem solved. My 4" lift now goes 90mph on pot holes no issue.
Did you do the steering stabilizer without backing the car up? I was really happy to see I didn't need to lift up the front end to get this done. Wish it was the same for ball joints!
I put new shocks on my Jeep Grand Cherokee because it was hitting really hard when I hit a bump. But after I put the new shocks on it still bottoms out. Do you know what my problem could be?
Nice video man, you inspired me to replace the adjusting sleeve as well so I don't have to battle the rust lol. What did you use as your measuring points for the tie rod ends? I was going to put a micrometer from the first thread to the sleeve and try to replicate that on the new one. Or did you measure overall assembled length from end to end?
Good move haha. I just measured end to end and tried to get it even, I have a video about the alignment we took to tape measures and to flat pieces of metal to get it pretty even has been good since
@@NajarOffroad sweet, thanks for the reply, I'll check out that video. Usually I measure off the grease zerks, but the stock tie rods don't have them of course lol. Should be a fun day tomorrow
hi, thank you for the content, keep up good job, finding this video suddenly I've recalled that a while ago, had a weird moment in a curve to the right I felt a play in the tearing wheal and left wheel felt un-stable, what do you recon this might be ?
EVERY tie rod end video quick edits the hour that it takes to beat the frozen tie rod end out. They always show a couple of taps and then a video edit to a loose tie rod end. Enraging.
Can someone make a list of parts I need for a full steering and stabilizers to replace the whole damn system?? I got screwed by the dealership and ots over 20 years old.
Death wobble in a Cherokee is almost ALWAYS due to a wallowed-out bolt hole in the track bar mount. There is even an after market kit to address this. You have to drill out the bolt hole and replace with a slightly larger bolt and and new nut. The nut has to be tack welded on the back of the mounting bracket. The kit has a tab with the nut attached to make this easier. Regardless....a loose suspension can cause death wobble. But the MAIN, PRIMARY cause is the wallowed-out front bolt hole on the track bar mount. People chase EVERY other suspension part because this hole cannot be seen or inspected without removing the track bar. And it only takes about 1 mm of "out of round" to start the harmonic oscillation that turns into death wobble. Check out this kit: Clayton Off Road® COR-1100111 - Track Bar Bolt Kit No. I do not work for them. I did not use this kit. I just drilled out the hole, went from metric to standard, and tacked in a new bolt on the back side.
I believe he said he marked the location of the old tie rod end with a paint marker or something, which means you can transfer said mark to the new part, and still be somewhat were you were beforehand.
Not only that but a new tie rod sleeve is like 40 bucks on Amazon....I replaced the whole unit on my 2000 WJ cause there was no way I was gonna spend hours trying to get the old ones out of the old sleeve 😆
Help ya boy out and get some some merch!
Thanks for watching! If you want to support the channel for future videos
get your merch at 🤟 Najaroffroad.com 🤟
Not needing a new steering stabilizer to fix wobble is false , i replaced everything you mentioned and still had it , decided to pay $36 for a new steering stabilizer and walaaaa! Deff wobble gone . Various combinations of damaged parts will change causes of wobble , deff had fun replacing these parts on my own though super easy ,thanx for the vid
U sure
I’m tired of this shit too bro I FEEL you
Did u get it up to 45 50 mine wobbles at that speed new ball joints hoping its jus tie rods
Next time heat up the tube where the tie rod go's in with a blow torch. then clean the tube threads with the new joint using Copper Ease or anti seize paste, It will be easier putting it all back together.
Thanks that advice would have helped out a lot😂 I’ll save this info for next time I do something similar!
.....either this, or just spend another $10-$20 or so to replace that adjusting rod/center bar. That's my plan of attack.
I had a rare case of DW on my WJ. New ball joints, upper& lower adj. control arms, all new fox shocks all around, caster at 8 deg, every bushing and ball joints on TRE & DL replaced and are new, new tires balanced, trackbar and mount upper & lower reinforced with 1/4" plate with new 9/16" bolt w/ KOR bushings as tight as a virgin perfectly aligned with DL, zero bump steer, new redhead gear box with weld on steering brace plate, alignment by "professional", FOX 2.0 nitro stabilizer. Before I'd get DW at 55-60mph. After all of that I'd still get DW at 70+mph. (edit: also brand new hub bearings...not a single damn thing loose on the jeep)
After all of that, I pinned the problem to overcharged FOX nitro stabilizer. It acts like a shock rather than a dampener...so when the tire hits a bump and has a mini air it slightly creates its own secret bump steer. But that was only half of the problem. The other one was TOE IN. There was a guy on youtube explained that you need a slight TOE out to cure the issue. So I release off some nitro from my stabilizer and toe out my front wheels by 1/8"...problem solved. My 4" lift now goes 90mph on pot holes no issue.
Same situation. Maybe I have a bad stabilizer.
Did you do the steering stabilizer without backing the car up? I was really happy to see I didn't need to lift up the front end to get this done. Wish it was the same for ball joints!
Jacking*
I think I need new tie rods... Now are they the tie rods or tie rod ends? And is it the upper or lower ?
I put new shocks on my Jeep Grand Cherokee because it was hitting really hard when I hit a bump. But after I put the new shocks on it still bottoms out. Do you know what my problem could be?
Nice video man, you inspired me to replace the adjusting sleeve as well so I don't have to battle the rust lol. What did you use as your measuring points for the tie rod ends? I was going to put a micrometer from the first thread to the sleeve and try to replicate that on the new one. Or did you measure overall assembled length from end to end?
Good move haha. I just measured end to end and tried to get it even, I have a video about the alignment we took to tape measures and to flat pieces of metal to get it pretty even has been good since
@@NajarOffroad sweet, thanks for the reply, I'll check out that video. Usually I measure off the grease zerks, but the stock tie rods don't have them of course lol. Should be a fun day tomorrow
What size is the steering stabilizer????
Did it fix the problem
Actually made the steering tighter! But recently got death wobble again like a week ago😂 time for more diagnosing
@@NajarOffroad
What fixed it in the end? I know it's always something different possible for everyone.
hi,
thank you for the content, keep up good job,
finding this video suddenly I've recalled that a while ago, had a weird moment in a curve to the right I felt a play in the tearing wheal and left wheel felt un-stable, what do you recon this might be ?
When you remove the tie rod end did you had any play in the joint ?
Thanks bro for the quick and edited tie rod removal out of the link.
EVERY tie rod end video quick edits the hour that it takes to beat the frozen tie rod end out. They always show a couple of taps and then a video edit to a loose tie rod end. Enraging.
Is it still good?
Would I need a specific tie rod for my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee that’s on a 2.5” lift? Thanks very informative video.
+TheLocalScrub I just went with stock tie rods
Can someone make a list of parts I need for a full steering and stabilizers to replace the whole damn system?? I got screwed by the dealership and ots over 20 years old.
Question. I got the 2.5 lift spring on my WJ. Do i need adjustable lower control arm for this kit? The guy at aligment told me yes so idk.
Is this the lower tie rod end ?
Honestly it’s easier to wrench it of while the other side is still attached
Very helpful video. But iam from Zambia we don't have side walks. 😆
Let's go for a drive! 😂😂 Good vid, thanks man.
Death wobble in a Cherokee is almost ALWAYS due to a wallowed-out bolt hole in the track bar mount. There is even an after market kit to address this. You have to drill out the bolt hole and replace with a slightly larger bolt and and new nut. The nut has to be tack welded on the back of the mounting bracket. The kit has a tab with the nut attached to make this easier.
Regardless....a loose suspension can cause death wobble. But the MAIN, PRIMARY cause is the wallowed-out front bolt hole on the track bar mount.
People chase EVERY other suspension part because this hole cannot be seen or inspected without removing the track bar. And it only takes about 1 mm of "out of round" to start the harmonic oscillation that turns into death wobble.
Check out this kit:
Clayton Off Road® COR-1100111 - Track Bar Bolt Kit
No. I do not work for them. I did not use this kit. I just drilled out the hole, went from metric to standard, and tacked in a new bolt on the back side.
Yes sir! Trailforged Steering kit comes with upgraded bolts 💪
On my WJ and Ram it's always the track bar coming loose. On the WJ I plated the holes thick and drilled new virgin holes.
Bro great video.....odd question are you in San Jacinto? I recognize the mountains and second ??
hemet
I knew it was the tie rods! 🦁
how?
I'm doing my tie rod right now and having a murder of a time unscrewing them, I'm doing the same thing you're doing with the pipe wrenchs.
Better off upgrading to Trailforged Steering😂
I've changed my 2 lower tie rods and problem fixed!
Ok I got a 2004 it does it when I hit a bump
Yeah, sounds like tie rod ends for me too. And a trans mount, which isn't too hard.
Definitely need to change everything rubber😂 but one step at a time haha
I read tht the steering gearbox does causr death wobble
Would you not need to do an alignment after
I believe he said he marked the location of the old tie rod end with a paint marker or something, which means you can transfer said mark to the new part, and still be somewhat were you were beforehand.
Man you needa grease those ball joints😂😂
Nah I need to replace them😂
In some videos they grease ball joints after replacing
Hopefully this is the cure to this death wobble because im tired of this sh*t😂
should have just bought a new tube for 60 bucks
Bro replace that nylock🤣 it's probably good but wouldn't hurt to change as once it's taken off the first time they're not as good as they were
Send it😂 We have Trailforged Steering now
Bad control arm bushings
The lazy man works double take off damn tire
Me 💯
Not only that but a new tie rod sleeve is like 40 bucks on Amazon....I replaced the whole unit on my 2000 WJ cause there was no way I was gonna spend hours trying to get the old ones out of the old sleeve 😆
Does the overall tie rod length from center to center TRE change any when doing a 2in lift? Or overall drag link length?
Thanks
I've replace tie rods ends, pitman arms, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arms and bushings, and still have death wobble.
Steering stabilizer
@@marcomurillo634 this. Begin with steering stabilizer.
Trackbar trackbar trackbar!!!!
Put all the jeep vids under 1 section I hate to keep looking around
Real men don't wear gloves lol messing with yea
🤠
+christopher martinez 💪
My ends won’t come out of the link even with a cheater
Upgrade to Trailforged 😜 I think you can probably buy a stock one on Amazon or something
Hot wrench
My tie rods are completely garbage.