Get BETTER 3D PRINTS and FEWER FAILS with Better Orientation!
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2023
- Here I show you some of the things I do to get better prints and fewer fails.
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#3dprinting #3dprinted #resinart 
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even though this is for resin this actually helped me a lot in my FDM printing adventure! my print quality alone is amazing thanks for the pointers!! love the content
Thank you!
I had many many failures because a number of reasons.
My advice to the new ones, first of all, dont try to fit every piece on your print. Its better to do it on multiple prints and orientate correctly every single piece.
Then if you are tryin to print very detailed statues, I wouldnt use the 3d grid infill when you hollow the model. Instead add supports inside the model. Sometimes auto supports arent enough.
Finally, for taller supports I would always try to put 1 or 2 that connect with it, cuz if one fails at least there are 1 or 2 to save that high part of the print.
As usual another video I learned something Ty
Great info!
very nice
Another great video I’ve read as well u can u use a math equation for this as well
Hi Henry, have you made any videos on orientation of bases, ?
Not yet. That maybe an upcoming video.
Excellent video as always. And I have a doubt.
Do you use the supports that the program gives you? Don't you add more to make sure it goes well?
Thanks for everythig
I use what auto supports provides. Sometimes I do add more but not very often.
Great video as always Henry, thanks.
I am always very worried about suction and on the Rogue torso at 2:56 and 2:57 I would have been very worried about her left elbow having too much suction until it joined up with the torso where the drain holes are which brings me to my question:
At what point would you start to worry about suction in a situation like that? Obviously that one turned out okay.
I've found that as long as you have plenty of drain holes in both ends, that helps out with suction. I don't have a lot of pull from the plate where it'll distort the piece.
Hey, man. Great video! What is your typical thickness when you hollow a model? I want to save as much resin without making the print too fragile.
Thanks! I usually print in 1.5 to 1.8 thickness wit ha 5% grid infill.
Knowledge
On the heads and arms, I noticed you do not have drain holes toward the top of the print (side toward the vat) I was always told that you needed drain holes on the top and bottom to prevent suction problems. Do you not need drains on the top of the head? That would really help out on post processing, but don't want to ruin a print if I can.
I've never put holes in the top of a head. Just plenty in other areas. Just be careful when you pull the build plate from the printer because some resin may pour out from the bottom.
Fair enough. Thanks for the reply.
Hi im trying to find out which printer to buy, if i get the saturn 2 will i be able to make those nice size prints that i see your making in decent time?
Yes you can
Is there a way to get rid of resin trap / resin pockets in chitubox? I'm not sure if it would affect my print but probably don't want uncured resin still stuck in the piece after cleaning it.
I think there's a feature in the new version that helps identify and rid them but I'm not sure
I wish you listed the files or maybe the creators for the files you show. I need more information on that Optimus Head.
It's from Wicked3d as well
Great video - quick question, is there a reason not to use the pre-supported files that Wicked prepare? What is your experience with them? thanks for the help
I've just had presupports fail on me quite a bit. And if you use Lychee...Wicked presupports don't work very well.
@@TheCreativeCollector Cool thanks for the info good to know
hey TCC, can i ask? do you ever use rafts? i have been told to always use them but rlly not sure, allot don't seem to
I dont use them. Never found a need to
So Im curious... what temperature do you keep your resin room at? I for the life of me can not get my prints to come out anymore. I have tried all your tips and tricks and all seem to fail at the beginning or mid way through. I was told to keep my reain room warm and to make sure the fep is suppppper tight. How do you get auch amazing prints to come out!?
I keep it around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Hello Henry. I just bought elegoo saturn s and sunlu black resin. I saw on your settings that you got elegoo mars printer. Can you share your setrings for elegoo printer. I try several prints for cones to test the resin and it is not going very good. Thank you very much. Cheers
Hey there! Message me through Instagram and I can probably help you out!
@@TheCreativeCollector i have some problems with instagram so i message you on facebook. hope thats ok?
Do you reckon it's the hardware, software or just orientation as I've tried many angles and still get layer shifts.
I'm not sure till I look at your settings and such.
I still get layer shifts which is really annoying when it's on a model with detailed fabric you can't sand it out.
Look me up on the discord and I can try and help you fix it.
I just printed off the Thanos model from Wicked. I bought a Saturn 8K so I’m new to resin. My question is the bottom of the boots and all of my parts kinda look blurry or flat. I ran them as they supported, also did my own supports and the same issue. It looks as if the resin is pooling around the supports washing out the detail. Is this a setting problem? Most of my settings are stock, ran the cones of Cali ration part so the printer is dialed in good. Just not sure about how to get the detail in the bottom back. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like a setting issue. Maybe your lift from the build plate isn't high enough. I use 5mm lift.
@@TheCreativeCollector I’ll look into that. Trying to find videos with different settings from people but it’s not as easy to find. I’ve found a few and tweaked it a little already. Appreciate the advice.
Exposure times? Maybe getting over exposed. That will wash out a lot of detail. Resins are all a little different but layers are generally 2-3 seconds now for most. I use Syria Tech Fast which I know is pricey but its an amazing resin. 2.2 to 2.4 layer on Creality Halot Sky. Also, temperature around your printer is really important. My basement is pretty cold so I will often warm up resin and extend layer time a little.
Can either be an exposure issue or a decimation issue. The first you can change, the second is out of your hands.
@@kelvinreid9606 My exposure time is 1.8. Ran the calibration parts multiple times and that was the best result all around. As for temp, it's inside my upstairs room so it's around 75 degrees constantly. The lift was set at 3mm so I bumped it to 5. The detail after the parts finish the bottom facing layer is crisp. It's just where the supports meet the part that it looks a little washed out. Kinda seems like the resin is pooling around the supports. Will check the parts that are finished when I get home and see if the changes helped.
Wait a minute. What happened to the 20% support density you used to use?
I still do. I just wanted to show the basics to everyone with the normal settings.
@@TheCreativeCollector Just pulling ur chain boss. I learned something from that video. I am going to change the way I do my next torso and see if I can get the head pin slot to print right. Thanks for the help.
I have an ender 3 , and the printer doesn't want to print at all, I tried everything I changed parts, filament brands etc and it still didn't print, I don't know what to do
Bad board? Maybe wires are hooked up wrong?
@@TheCreativeCollector maybe, I don't know, a friend built it for me, but I think I'm going to give up on this machine, I've already spent a lot trying to fix it