“Not all heroes wear capes”. Thank you so much for these settings! You saved me so much time and. Money. My Saturn was constantly putting out failed prints and failing supports. These settings were like I had a new machine. Thanks again!
Good to know. I just got a Saturn 3 and have been testing before I found this video. I'm excited to try now after setting up my settings to match this video.
@@Q8Despair genuine question, why would he use anything else except whats on the video? you're just muddying the waters asking questions like this for no reason if theres no reason why you would think he would be using a different speed. stop doing that on hobbies like this
I've spent weeks watching videos trying to learn everything possible about 3d printing and this is the first time I get a comprehensible guide for a total newcomer (I have not even bought the printer, still have to decide which one!)... Thank you so much for such an easy guide to begin with!! thank you so so much!!
Same with me. I’m watching everything. But I did decide on a cheap low end 2k printer just to see if I enjoy the “life” of 3d printing. If I do, I’ll buy a better, bigger printer.
I don't even own a 3D Resin Printer but watching and replaying your videos I should be setting myself for a higher success rate in this hobby once I decide which 3D printer I will get. None the less I will continue to make reference to your videos. Thank you so very much for your time and sharing your knowledge.
This guy’s channel is legit. I kept trying different settings and haven’t hit the right one until I hit this channel. I tried the settings he’s using and my print came out the same as his. Dude is amazing and I subscribe to him and hit a like. Love your channel bro!!
just tested these settings on my saturn 2 (calibration cones and the xp2 matrix with standard 8k resin) and both came out completely flawless. I actually did a double take looking at my calibration matrix because it looked exactly like the 'perfect' img example. I thought my usual universal settings were fine, but I'm just totally shocked!! You just helped me break put of a near 6 month rut. Thank you so much dude. fantastic video. Also I saw in the comments people were asking about flex plate settings. I've been printing with flex plates for nearly 2 years now and I think 5 bottom layers at 50 is fine for practically all resins, abs and water washable. also make sure you lightly score your flex plate if you're still having adhesion issues, just the lightest even little sand across the plate will do. light but enough to get that 'criss cross' texture on the metal a teeny bit
Gonna try these settings on my Saturn 8K tomorrow, will update afterwards although I'm using it for minis so may need to tweak the Layer height but we shall see :) *Update 86% print done, nothing has failed on the build plate the original time was 4.30 hours, with these settings its drastically dropped to 2.30 hours saving me 2 hours* so far really impressed.
Thank you so much for all your videos it helped me get through some hard obstacles and heart aches plus the stress I felt like I wanted to throw in the towel but kept on pushing like you said in one of your videos. Once again thank you
I was just about to throw in the towel getting my mono x to print and I stumbled on your resin settings, now Ive been able to print consistently, its also convinced me to switch to Chitabox permanently when doing my 3d prints.Genuinely saved my bacon with your advice, many thanks and I'm subscribing.
Thank you so much! I just got my Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra and these settings worked perfectly for me. My first failed attempt made a flat print stuck to the resin tank lol
So glad i found your channel. My printer was working perfectly and suddenly everything went wrong. I couldn't print anything with the quality I used to do. So, I tweaked my settings based off yours with some minor changes and everything is perfect. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Thanks for the settings. I tried it on my new elegoo 4 ultra and at first it didnt work. I guess the figure was too small. Decided to print a bigger model and it works great.. im new to the resin printer. So far its been great.
Thanks for the video! Just picked up a Mono X 6k. I already have a Mono 4k, and I love it. Giving your settings a shot for the 6k a shot, right out of the box. Wish me luck.
Thx m8....you saved my sanity....i've been using your settings on my elegoo Saturn ultra...using water washable resin...and it works just great...thx again....love your vids👍🏻😁
I like to give my files a final once over before I add supports and add a .05 hole in any spots that I think may cause suction. I dont know if it actually makes any difference but I feel like I have less pieces pulling away from the supports in spots and less wear on my FEP since I started doing it.
I had to change the numbers in the column to the right that default to 0. When I left them zero it made a 4 hour print take 30 hours. After changing them the estimated time was more accurate
Keeping a consistent temperature is a big deal. I print in a room with good air flow and around 70 degrees Fahrenheit and with low humidity. I use an extraction fan and an air purifier.
Great video! I will definetly give it a try when i am home. I have been exhausted with failed prints of RPG Dice, especially D6 with my Saturn 3 12K and Standart Grey Resin. Hope these settings will work 🤞
Thank you for this! One thing that puzzles me is if you remove these supports under the teeth, how could they print? Because they look like unsupported islands to me.
I got some of the Nova3D 8K grey resin and am seeing an uncomfortably large delta between suggested settings. I am going to try your settings as a starting point and see what results I get on Saturn 3 12K Ultra. Thank you for your suggestions!
Cones of calibration came out what I expect to be pretty much success, failure side a steadily decreasing percent failure. I could tweak it more I'm sure, but I have a feeling I can print with success at these settings. Thank you, man.
Thank you so much for this !! Love your page!! Imma defo try this on my Mars 3pro ultra!! Been struggling so bad with printer settings ! They wouldn’t catch details! Will let you know my results when I print next few days!! 🔥🔥🔥
I been using lychee but I want give this a try and see if there anything different from those setting and your set up . I like to see if things could be better , I had no real issue beside human errors .But feel things could be better .Edit ,Done 4 cones test and Just keep failing on me , Keep getting cones on fail side -either 2 print in middle or far right side I get one semi full cone and 2 little bitty ones .I thought I could get it but think stick with my other setting since it does work . Thanks for all tips you give ! You and many other youtube printers been a major help to us all .
You are so right, 3s is the sweet spot. In my case I used to print with default settings and 2.5s of exposure time. Tho as the weather changed, my prints failed and I had to go 3.1s. I have discussed many times with friends, which is the best way to hollow (grid or inner supports). My main doubt is what do you do when you see that there is a inner island and you used the grid, do you add normal inner supports or what? Because I have printed many pieces with the inner grid and 60% success, 40% failure. Those that didnt built correctly seemed to have islands on the inside of the model after hollowing but I thought the grid was enough.
OMG thank you! I've been struggling to get good prints, and with these settings... well, I have 2 of 3 plates done on Wick3d's Throg, and they look amazing, so far. Still draining, so not sure how the supports will come off, but I have high hopes!
Soak the print in hot water for a couple minutes..the supports will become soft and pop right off .I've been using the Anycubic water based high speed resin and had no issues with it my prints have turned out amazing!
Hi, first of all great video it helped me a lot geting better resoults on my prints. I also have a problem with the conections, like they never fit and I always have to sand it our make my own conection with the conection hole with like 0.1 mm biger than the other conector. Do you have any advacy for that, our an easyer way to do it?
I love your videos. The only issue I've ran into with your settings is someone them are not there for me.. I have no grid infill to select nor can I change the support density.. I am new to chitubox slicer so I'm wondering if maybe it is a pro version thing as I'm using chitubox basic. With that said I ran everything else the same as you have it and my first print now came out great. (Had to scale the model down from what it was and using the presupported files to do so was not recommended by modeler)
@TheCreativeCollector yes it appears it is. I've only.been using it a few weeks now it says 2.2 beta. Makes me wonder if they just chose a standardized density for supports based on thickness instead of percentage. Can't find on clear answer on the internet. I was able to find the the answer on why no grid infill though. It's now called "cross 3d" with is suppose to be improved from grid infill guess.
Usually when I hollow it I can see the pockets during the transition and I can put holes in it there or I can try and use the repair option in chitubox
I know this video is a year old, but I am doing a Gambit statue. While following your video I set the hollow with the grid 3d. I did use the slide bar to see if any supports were being generated in the model and there were. My version of chitubox looks newer than the version you are using in this video. So is there a setting I am missing? or do I just go in and remove the unwanted supports?
Happy new year. Have you tried the same support settings for miniatures? (Mainly around 30mm ) I wonder if they are thought out to be thicker due to sustaning a bigger piece. Or else what chages would you recommend?
Hey Henry! You mentioned that you check for islands or pockets. What do you do if you do have pockets? What is the best way to avoid having an srea with trapped resin? Some models are making me nervous like venoms claws from wicked as an example
Chitubox has a repair option but most of the time if I see them in the animation process, I just put drain holes all in the pockets while in the animation process. That way it has ample drainage from those pockets.
Thanks for this video - it helps a lot. Question please: is it possible to mix 2 different resins - for example: Can I mix ‘High Toughness’ resin with ‘Standard’ resin? Thanks
Pretty sure you can but you might be better off not doing that for those resins. There's different compositions between the two so they might not bond well.
Do you find that the 5% infill provides enough support for overhangs? For example, the helmet print in the video there is going to be a significant overhang at the top underside of the wolverine head.
Thank you for the settings this is a great start for me running a anycubic Photon Mono X 6ks i have done 2 fair sized prints in little to no time i am having a issue now with a file that states 10hr to print with 2442 layers but 12hrs later i am at 7% does this sound right? I am using the exact settings shown....any ideas or is this they way it goes on some prints? Thank you in advance.
I put these setting into chitubox and i use the "Phrozen sonic mega 8k s" with "Anycubic uv wavelength 405nm" but it comes out warped. what should i put the exposure at???
Hello friend, so I was wondering if you still use these settings after a year. I just got a PC that can install Chitubox and I’m stuck on precision. Doesn’t go up to 50. Thanks
Thanks for the help I have two questions if dont bother you. One is is setting can help to minis too? Or is good only for statues and I noted that you dont used the anti aliasing so if I use the option can produce a difference with your settings?
I've printed minis with these settings too. I don't use anti aliasing because I really just don't see a difference, but you should be able to without altering the settings.
First off, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. I tried your settings and prints came up perfect, however they did came up on the brittle side, keys and holes did not fit and I had to sand down and while testing the fit the connection broke from friction while pulling out, I did not put that much force on the pieces, any advice? I'm using Sunlu standard resin on an Anycubic photon mono 4k at 1.5mm wall thickness
I guess I'd look into how long you're curing your pieces for and I'm not sure what model you're doing. Some shrinkage is normal and yes every now and then I run across some pieces not fitting perfectly. I've been using the same resin and don't have those issues.
@@TheCreativeCollector I've been curing them about 10 to 20 minutes on a cure station, maybe I'm curing for too long making them brittle? I will try printing at higher thickness and curing for less time
I have chitubox pro and for the life of me i can find density% is there a key combo i use to add this to the auto support portion of the screen? All i see is angle, touch tip distance and middle distance.
Evening Brother, loving your content. You completely simplify and take the guess work out of 3D printing. Maybe you can help me or point me in the right direction, I also have a GKTwo and have been messing with Siraya Tech Navy Grey. Ive been printing more miniature with more detail and parts and curious have you used it with these setting? what have been your results?
Thanks! Yes I've used these settings for minis as well. There maybe times where you need to adjust the exposure time. Sometimes minis can get overexposed because of the small details.
BTW, wanted to Thank you, plugged your setting in using the Uniformation GKTwo, using Siraya Tech Navy Grey and the results were amazing. Saved me so much frustration.
Just found ur page brother, great information. I have a question, would you recommend these settings for the Phrozen Mega 8K S ( my current printer ) im about to print some large figures ( warlord titan ) and im not sure what settings to run that would be optimal...
Hey man, thanks a bunch for this. I was gonna ask about your UV power, but I saw that you've mentioned it to be around 70%. Was wondering if you could give the Lychee slicer a go. What your tweaks and tips could be on that. Reason being that Cura (for my FDM) seems to crash when Chitubox is fired up. Thanks again, dude.
oh my god, dude, i've been searching for days on how to get my printer back to reliably making prints since getting first creality and then sunlu's water wash after elegoo's relatively simple and risk free resin. look, i don't even care if this works for water wash, i'm just relieved to see a video explaining this in chitubox from start to finish. it's ridiculous how hard it is to find ANY info on what i should be doing. i thought there'd be somewhere to read guidelines but nope. i'm just concerned that the basic version in 2.3 doesn't let me change the density of the auto supports. i'm hoping to turn me printing and my partner's painting into a business, so if the pro version is worth it, i might get it. will update on if the print is successful.
I'm having trouble printing big pieces on the Saturn 2. Sometimes they fall, sometimes they just stop midprinting... Any tips for big, heavy, complex prints?
Thanks for your settings they worked really well for me, what resin do you recommend, I’m getting small areas that are coming off build plate but not enough to affect print. I’m thinking it might be the cheaper resin I’m using.
I understand most of what you are doing, but you got me on the removal of the supports on the teeth. Would the teeth now be considered island and not printed properly or am I just wrong. Also, I have started printing large and I am finding the keys are not fitting. Is this the file or am I curing too long?
The teeth printed fine on this one but I do suggest in using supports on something like this. The problem with bigger prints and keys not fitting is just from the expansion and shrinkage of the resin. It's a common thing. I just sand down the keys a bit and usually that helps.
Always informative videos! Got a question unrelated to this video if that’s ok, I finished painting a head sculpt and wanted to ask should I use gloss varnish for eyes before or after the Matt varnish? ( also how long can I wait before sealing the paint with varnish can it go for like 3 weeks? )
So these settings are fantastic and I love them but I am having trouble with the supports going through my models no matter what I do with the hollow settings, I have it set exactly as described in the video but my supports are still forcing through the model with no infill. Any ideas? 😅
So did you use the 5% grid infill on the settings where you hollow it? If not then that's why. When you use the grid infill the system knows not to add supports. Hope that helps.
I just used these settings with Anycubic water-wash resin, clear and hd gray. Settings works fantastic with my Mono M5, but with 35 seconds for bottom exposure it’s a bit tricky to get off the print 😅. I think i’ll go to 28 and i see what i get, or you have any other tips to take of the bases from the plate?
“Not all heroes wear capes”. Thank you so much for these settings! You saved me so much time and. Money. My Saturn was constantly putting out failed prints and failing supports. These settings were like I had a new machine. Thanks again!
I have been using your settings with my saturn and saturn 3 with great results. Thank you!
I just got a Saturn as well, going to try these settings out. Thanks for the comment.
what lift speed do you use? exactly same as in the video?
Good to know. I just got a Saturn 3 and have been testing before I found this video. I'm excited to try now after setting up my settings to match this video.
@@zebmaxwell7979 any updates? Id like to knwo if they worked for your Saturn as Im using the same printer
@@Q8Despair genuine question, why would he use anything else except whats on the video? you're just muddying the waters asking questions like this for no reason if theres no reason why you would think he would be using a different speed. stop doing that on hobbies like this
LIFE SAVER! I've had ZERO fails using these setting of the last week. Thanks man!
I've spent weeks watching videos trying to learn everything possible about 3d printing and this is the first time I get a comprehensible guide for a total newcomer (I have not even bought the printer, still have to decide which one!)... Thank you so much for such an easy guide to begin with!! thank you so so much!!
Same with me. I’m watching everything. But I did decide on a cheap low end 2k printer just to see if I enjoy the “life” of 3d printing. If I do, I’ll buy a better, bigger printer.
I don't even own a 3D Resin Printer but watching and replaying your videos I should be setting myself for a higher success rate in this hobby once I decide which 3D printer I will get. None the less I will continue to make reference to your videos. Thank you so very much for your time and sharing your knowledge.
WOW, thanks 4 the quick responce!! Im gonna run these numbers
I used these settings on my Anycubic Mono and the print is incredible. I had a few bad prints on a particular part. These settings fixed the problem
That's awesome 👌
I use a Saturn 3 ultra and This gave me the best results with fine crisp detail. Using Sunlu abs-like dark grey. Thank you sir!!!
This guy’s channel is legit. I kept trying different settings and haven’t hit the right one until I hit this channel. I tried the settings he’s using and my print came out the same as his. Dude is amazing and I subscribe to him and hit a like. Love your channel bro!!
Revelation. With your settings, everything printed without defects - 100% success. Thank you! (printer Anycubic M5s 12k)
That's great to hear!
just tested these settings on my saturn 2 (calibration cones and the xp2 matrix with standard 8k resin) and both came out completely flawless. I actually did a double take looking at my calibration matrix because it looked exactly like the 'perfect' img example. I thought my usual universal settings were fine, but I'm just totally shocked!! You just helped me break put of a near 6 month rut. Thank you so much dude. fantastic video.
Also I saw in the comments people were asking about flex plate settings. I've been printing with flex plates for nearly 2 years now and I think 5 bottom layers at 50 is fine for practically all resins, abs and water washable. also make sure you lightly score your flex plate if you're still having adhesion issues, just the lightest even little sand across the plate will do. light but enough to get that 'criss cross' texture on the metal a teeny bit
That's great to hear! Thank you 😊
Gonna try these settings on my Saturn 8K tomorrow, will update afterwards although I'm using it for minis so may need to tweak the Layer height but we shall see :) *Update 86% print done, nothing has failed on the build plate the original time was 4.30 hours, with these settings its drastically dropped to 2.30 hours saving me 2 hours* so far really impressed.
Thank you so much for all your videos it helped me get through some hard obstacles and heart aches plus the stress I felt like I wanted to throw in the towel but kept on pushing like you said in one of your videos. Once again thank you
And thank you for watching. Keep it up!
I was just about to throw in the towel getting my mono x to print and I stumbled on your resin settings, now Ive been able to print consistently, its also convinced me to switch to Chitabox permanently when doing my 3d prints.Genuinely saved my bacon with your advice, many thanks and I'm subscribing.
Dude that's awesome! Thats why I do this channel...to help others. Thanks for the sub!
Very valuable video. Thanks for sharing!
I'm new to resin printing and I've been jumping from video to video and your settings were the ones that worked best for my printer! thank you!
That's awesome!
Thank you so much! I just got my Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra and these settings worked perfectly for me. My first failed attempt made a flat print stuck to the resin tank lol
big thumbs up love my GK2
Thank you! I only have a nova 3D Elfin mono and only use water washable resin. Tried your settings with no hassles and no failed prints at all...
So glad i found your channel. My printer was working perfectly and suddenly everything went wrong. I couldn't print anything with the quality I used to do. So, I tweaked my settings based off yours with some minor changes and everything is perfect. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Thanks for the settings. I tried it on my new elegoo 4 ultra and at first it didnt work. I guess the figure was too small. Decided to print a bigger model and it works great.. im new to the resin printer. So far its been great.
Folow up it works with water washable resin.
Thanks for the video! Just picked up a Mono X 6k. I already have a Mono 4k, and I love it. Giving your settings a shot for the 6k a shot, right out of the box. Wish me luck.
How did it go? Any experience with Sunlu abs like water washable resin on that printer as well? :)
Going to try this settings on my Anycubic Photon M3 Premium.
Thank you I’m going to try this out. I’ve got a new mars 4 ultra I’m setting up. I’ve only done injection molding and FDM.
awesome thank you so much, just bought my first printer so this will help immensely
Congrats for the video. Very helpful. Could you get a print screen of the settings for the Photon Mono X? Thank you and keep the good work!
Thx m8....you saved my sanity....i've been using your settings on my elegoo Saturn ultra...using water washable resin...and it works just great...thx again....love your vids👍🏻😁
I like to give my files a final once over before I add supports and add a .05 hole in any spots that I think may cause suction. I dont know if it actually makes any difference but I feel like I have less pieces pulling away from the supports in spots and less wear on my FEP since I started doing it.
I had to change the numbers in the column to the right that default to 0. When I left them zero it made a 4 hour print take 30 hours. After changing them the estimated time was more accurate
Other than that these settings were really helpful. Thanks
Can you talk about environmental effects on printing? What temprature and humidity do you print in? Do you have any winter/summer settings?
Keeping a consistent temperature is a big deal. I print in a room with good air flow and around 70 degrees Fahrenheit and with low humidity. I use an extraction fan and an air purifier.
Yep the environment does factor, I found anything below 14c here in the UK just creates fails.
Thanks for the video, man!! Helps alot!!
You bet!
Great video! I will definetly give it a try when i am home. I have been exhausted with failed prints of RPG Dice, especially D6 with my Saturn 3 12K and Standart Grey Resin. Hope these settings will work 🤞
Ha! I do the same. But in my case I forget to change resin types lol.
Thank you for sharing your settings.
Any time
Great video! Can't wait for the Wolverine model! I really, really appreciate the setting advice. I am tired of guessing! Thanks, man!
Thank you for this! One thing that puzzles me is if you remove these supports under the teeth, how could they print? Because they look like unsupported islands to me.
Thank you so much for all your advice!
You are so welcome!
I got some of the Nova3D 8K grey resin and am seeing an uncomfortably large delta between suggested settings. I am going to try your settings as a starting point and see what results I get on Saturn 3 12K Ultra. Thank you for your suggestions!
Cones of calibration came out what I expect to be pretty much success, failure side a steadily decreasing percent failure. I could tweak it more I'm sure, but I have a feeling I can print with success at these settings. Thank you, man.
Thank you so much for this !! Love your page!! Imma defo try this on my Mars 3pro ultra!! Been struggling so bad with printer settings ! They wouldn’t catch details! Will let you know my results when I print next few days!! 🔥🔥🔥
Sounds awesome 👌
I been using lychee but I want give this a try and see if there anything different from those setting and your set up . I like to see if things could be better , I had no real issue beside human errors .But feel things could be better .Edit ,Done 4 cones test and Just keep failing on me , Keep getting cones on fail side -either 2 print in middle or far right side I get one semi full cone and 2 little bitty ones .I thought I could get it but think stick with my other setting since it does work . Thanks for all tips you give ! You and many other youtube printers been a major help to us all .
You are so right, 3s is the sweet spot. In my case I used to print with default settings and 2.5s of exposure time. Tho as the weather changed, my prints failed and I had to go 3.1s.
I have discussed many times with friends, which is the best way to hollow (grid or inner supports).
My main doubt is what do you do when you see that there is a inner island and you used the grid, do you add normal inner supports or what? Because I have printed many pieces with the inner grid and 60% success, 40% failure. Those that didnt built correctly seemed to have islands on the inside of the model after hollowing but I thought the grid was enough.
If I happen to see an island I'll add a drain hole to it or I can use the repair tool. It's not often this happens but it does.
@@TheCreativeCollector I'll search the repair tool, thanks a lot 😄
Wow thanks for this video!!!!! 😁
Great video, thanks for sharing
amaizing mate!
Thanks!
Outstanding, thank you!!!!!!!
Absolutely first class! love the channel, love the content! Wish i'd discovered you earlier. Sending a huge thumbs up from the UK! Subscribed :)
OMG thank you! I've been struggling to get good prints, and with these settings... well, I have 2 of 3 plates done on Wick3d's Throg, and they look amazing, so far. Still draining, so not sure how the supports will come off, but I have high hopes!
Soak the print in hot water for a couple minutes..the supports will become soft and pop right off .I've been using the Anycubic water based high speed resin and had no issues with it my prints have turned out amazing!
I got the anycubic m5s with high speed resin im try theses settings and see what happens.
That is awesome information, I haven’t used chitubox let I’m working on my first print with my Saturn 2 and suggestions with lychee setting?
How do you mitigate islands? Is there a fast way to add supports to layers that have islands?
The fast way for me was to add drain holes from the inside out to prevent resin pockets.
Muchas gracias por compartir el vídeo. Veré que ocurre en mi Creality Halo one.
(Checks youtube videos for settings.)
(Some chill American dude with a chill accent.)
(Problem solved)
while Saturn-S uses a 3s exposure, that would be pretty over on my Saturn-2 that uses 2.1s with the same resin, Siraya Tech Fast Gray
If that's working for you then keep it up! No need to change anything. 👍
your youtube is great Thanks for sharing What do you suggest for Elegoo Saturn ultra 10" build
Hi, first of all great video it helped me a lot geting better resoults on my prints.
I also have a problem with the conections, like they never fit and I always have to sand it our make my own conection with the conection hole with like 0.1 mm biger than the other conector.
Do you have any advacy for that, our an easyer way to do it?
That could be due to the keys from the model not shrunk down properly plus resin expands and contracts. I have the same problem sometimes
@@TheCreativeCollector is there a way to control it better ?
What is the UV power setting for your Mono X? Great video!
It's set at 70%
I love your videos. The only issue I've ran into with your settings is someone them are not there for me.. I have no grid infill to select nor can I change the support density.. I am new to chitubox slicer so I'm wondering if maybe it is a pro version thing as I'm using chitubox basic. With that said I ran everything else the same as you have it and my first print now came out great. (Had to scale the model down from what it was and using the presupported files to do so was not recommended by modeler)
Could be that you're using a newer version of Chitubox. I use version 1.9.5 which is an older version
@TheCreativeCollector yes it appears it is. I've only.been using it a few weeks now it says 2.2 beta. Makes me wonder if they just chose a standardized density for supports based on thickness instead of percentage. Can't find on clear answer on the internet. I was able to find the the answer on why no grid infill though. It's now called "cross 3d" with is suppose to be improved from grid infill guess.
Thanks for sharing the settings! My question is how do you fix resin traps or resin pockets?
I can't find the solution for it.
Usually when I hollow it I can see the pockets during the transition and I can put holes in it there or I can try and use the repair option in chitubox
I know this video is a year old, but I am doing a Gambit statue. While following your video I set the hollow with the grid 3d. I did use the slide bar to see if any supports were being generated in the model and there were. My version of chitubox looks newer than the version you are using in this video. So is there a setting I am missing? or do I just go in and remove the unwanted supports?
From what I hear the newer versions of Chitubox puts supports in there so you can remove them if you want. I use version 1.9.5.
Jeans the exposure time in my Printer settings as Well ? Or Just in the model Print settings ?
Just in the slicer settings
Thanks I was about to throw my Saturn S in the garbage! How important is it to have a crystal clear FEP? I’m tired of failed prints
Thanks for all your videos! I just don't understand why you suppress the supports under the teeth... doesn't it let islands?
Sometimes but in this situation because of the angle it didn't
Happy new year.
Have you tried the same support settings for miniatures? (Mainly around 30mm ) I wonder if they are thought out to be thicker due to sustaning a bigger piece. Or else what chages would you recommend?
Maybe if you switch to thinner supports?
Awww ok 😂thanks buddy
Hey Henry! You mentioned that you check for islands or pockets. What do you do if you do have pockets? What is the best way to avoid having an srea with trapped resin? Some models are making me nervous like venoms claws from wicked as an example
Chitubox has a repair option but most of the time if I see them in the animation process, I just put drain holes all in the pockets while in the animation process. That way it has ample drainage from those pockets.
Thanks for this video - it helps a lot. Question please: is it possible to mix 2 different resins - for example: Can I mix ‘High Toughness’ resin with ‘Standard’ resin? Thanks
Pretty sure you can but you might be better off not doing that for those resins. There's different compositions between the two so they might not bond well.
Do you find that the 5% infill provides enough support for overhangs? For example, the helmet print in the video there is going to be a significant overhang at the top underside of the wolverine head.
Yes it works for me.
Thanks a lot
Thank you for the settings this is a great start for me running a anycubic Photon Mono X 6ks i have done 2 fair sized prints in little to no time i am having a issue now with a file that states 10hr to print with 2442 layers but 12hrs later i am at 7% does this sound right? I am using the exact settings shown....any ideas or is this they way it goes on some prints? Thank you in advance.
Those times are always off. It's normal
I put these setting into chitubox and i use the "Phrozen sonic mega 8k s"
with "Anycubic uv wavelength 405nm" but it comes out warped.
what should i put the exposure at???
Are you printing something flat? Angle could be an issue
@@TheCreativeCollector I print at angles 45 on both x and y
Check your UV percentage on your printer if it has that setting. Needs to be around 70%
@@TheCreativeCollector I got the exposure down to 1.5 seconds and the validation matrix still comes out blurry
Hello friend, so I was wondering if you still use these settings after a year. I just got a PC that can install Chitubox and I’m stuck on precision. Doesn’t go up to 50. Thanks
Yes I do!
Thanks for the help I have two questions if dont bother you. One is is setting can help to minis too? Or is good only for statues and I noted that you dont used the anti aliasing so if I use the option can produce a difference with your settings?
I've printed minis with these settings too. I don't use anti aliasing because I really just don't see a difference, but you should be able to without altering the settings.
@TheCreativeCollector thank you so much I will probe the settings today with a temperature of 30° on abs resin my fingers will be like this 🤞
First off, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. I tried your settings and prints came up perfect, however they did came up on the brittle side, keys and holes did not fit and I had to sand down and while testing the fit the connection broke from friction while pulling out, I did not put that much force on the pieces, any advice? I'm using Sunlu standard resin on an Anycubic photon mono 4k at 1.5mm wall thickness
I guess I'd look into how long you're curing your pieces for and I'm not sure what model you're doing. Some shrinkage is normal and yes every now and then I run across some pieces not fitting perfectly. I've been using the same resin and don't have those issues.
@@TheCreativeCollector I've been curing them about 10 to 20 minutes on a cure station, maybe I'm curing for too long making them brittle? I will try printing at higher thickness and curing for less time
I have chitubox pro and for the life of me i can find density% is there a key combo i use to add this to the auto support portion of the screen? All i see is angle, touch tip distance and middle distance.
It's not in the paid version. Just in version 1.9.5
Evening Brother, loving your content. You completely simplify and take the guess work out of 3D printing. Maybe you can help me or point me in the right direction, I also have a GKTwo and have been messing with Siraya Tech Navy Grey. Ive been printing more miniature with more detail and parts and curious have you used it with these setting? what have been your results?
Thanks! Yes I've used these settings for minis as well. There maybe times where you need to adjust the exposure time. Sometimes minis can get overexposed because of the small details.
@@TheCreativeCollector Good advice. Much appreciated.
BTW, wanted to Thank you, plugged your setting in using the Uniformation GKTwo, using Siraya Tech Navy Grey and the results were amazing. Saved me so much frustration.
I have a Saturn 3 and I only use water-washable Sunlu resin, can I also use these settings with this type of resin???
Yes.
Have you gotten the new CHITUBOX Basic V2.1? Doesn't seem that much different but different enough.
No not yet
Thanks 🙏🏻 bro 🇲🇽
I've never zeroed out TSMC like this before, does it just override it and and use a single speed for lift and retract then yeah?
Yes it uses a single speed.
Great video! Can I ask what's your light off delay setting?
It's set at zero.
great stuff thank you a lot ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉
Just found ur page brother, great information. I have a question, would you recommend these settings for the Phrozen Mega 8K S ( my current printer ) im about to print some large figures ( warlord titan ) and im not sure what settings to run that would be optimal...
I'm using them on the OG Mega 8k and they work perfectly
Pretty sure the Wolverine model will have islands where the supports were removed
Islands from where the supports were? From the teeth? Nope. Didn't have that problem.
I think the same thing
Hey man, thanks a bunch for this. I was gonna ask about your UV power, but I saw that you've mentioned it to be around 70%. Was wondering if you could give the Lychee slicer a go. What your tweaks and tips could be on that. Reason being that Cura (for my FDM) seems to crash when Chitubox is fired up. Thanks again, dude.
I'm gonna try working with Lychee a little more in the future.
Great Video. Do you think these settings would work with an Elegoo Jupiter? You said you would change some things for the larger printers. Thoughts?
I use the same settings on my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K. You might need to adjust the bottom exposure times though
Thanks a lot for awesome videos 🌷 can I use this settings for anycubic photon m3 max?
Yes you can!
I did ur settings and it came out good but there is a spot on top of my motor block
Not sure I understand
Have you found a good clear resin?..sunlu had a Yellow tint.
I've never had an issue with Sunlu, but Voxelab has the best I've used so far.
oh my god, dude, i've been searching for days on how to get my printer back to reliably making prints since getting first creality and then sunlu's water wash after elegoo's relatively simple and risk free resin. look, i don't even care if this works for water wash, i'm just relieved to see a video explaining this in chitubox from start to finish. it's ridiculous how hard it is to find ANY info on what i should be doing. i thought there'd be somewhere to read guidelines but nope. i'm just concerned that the basic version in 2.3 doesn't let me change the density of the auto supports. i'm hoping to turn me printing and my partner's painting into a business, so if the pro version is worth it, i might get it.
will update on if the print is successful.
I'm having trouble printing big pieces on the Saturn 2. Sometimes they fall, sometimes they just stop midprinting... Any tips for big, heavy, complex prints?
A lot has to do with orientation on the build plate. If you're not placing them right, they'll fail no matter how many supports you have.
Thank you for all of your videos they are amazing. Do you use chitubox pro or the basic version? Thanks
Basic
I have a voxelab proxima 6 gray I'm using 8 and 40 and I've got good prints but flash forge beige I get nothing do you have any suggestions
I've never used that brand so I'm not sure
Thanks for your settings they worked really well for me, what resin do you recommend, I’m getting small areas that are coming off build plate but not enough to affect print. I’m thinking it might be the cheaper resin I’m using.
Right now Im using resin from Resione and Sunlu standard. Both are inexpensive and work great.
Thanks I’ll have to try them.
I understand most of what you are doing, but you got me on the removal of the supports on the teeth. Would the teeth now be considered island and not printed properly or am I just wrong. Also, I have started printing large and I am finding the keys are not fitting. Is this the file or am I curing too long?
The teeth printed fine on this one but I do suggest in using supports on something like this. The problem with bigger prints and keys not fitting is just from the expansion and shrinkage of the resin. It's a common thing. I just sand down the keys a bit and usually that helps.
if we're not happy with the hollowing thickness, do we have to start from scratch? Or is there a way of editing it
You can adjust it in the thickness area. If you go too thick you might have to add supports because it maybe too heavy.
Always informative videos! Got a question unrelated to this video if that’s ok, I finished painting a head sculpt and wanted to ask should I use gloss varnish for eyes before or after the Matt varnish? ( also how long can I wait before sealing the paint with varnish can it go for like 3 weeks? )
Definitely after the matte. Gloss on the eyes are the last thing I do.
@@TheCreativeCollector thank you!
So these settings are fantastic and I love them but I am having trouble with the supports going through my models no matter what I do with the hollow settings, I have it set exactly as described in the video but my supports are still forcing through the model with no infill. Any ideas? 😅
So did you use the 5% grid infill on the settings where you hollow it? If not then that's why. When you use the grid infill the system knows not to add supports. Hope that helps.
Any update about water wash resin with these settings?
I'm using these settings with the Water Fairy washable resin from Resione. I've used them with Sunlu WW as well.
Do you think with anycubic m5 will work? Thank a lot however, this is very helpful ❤️
I just used these settings with Anycubic water-wash resin, clear and hd gray. Settings works fantastic with my Mono M5, but with 35 seconds for bottom exposure it’s a bit tricky to get off the print 😅. I think i’ll go to 28 and i see what i get, or you have any other tips to take of the bases from the plate?
I have an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro and I'm going to start printing soon. If I use Anycubic resin, does this configuration work?
It should still work ok.
Hey, love the video..are you still using these settings today? :)
Yes I am!