Why I never worry about failing on projects
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2023
- Failure on projects has been the most important training tool I’ve had. But as with any tool. It’s all about how you wield it. My book on training for climbing: www.davemacleod.com/shop/9out...
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I have a request, for your future books, myself and I'm sure many others including RUclips subscribers would really appreciate an audiobook version. You are an excellent orator and have subtle nuances in your speech which make you very endearing and engaging to listen to. The author being the narrator tends to be a common theme of good listens, and your passion for climbing, nutrition, sports performance is obvious and motivating for the listener. I also think you'd write a very interesting book on sports psychology for not just climbing but optimal athletic performance. Many thanks for these videos
@@leoingson I would rather pay the extra money for a better product from a human
I'd pre-order 👌
3:09 I always knew that Dave is living a 1000 years in the future
I was about to make a joke about how long he'd being trying it and still kept going but you got there first :P
@@emilyscloset2648 me next.
Dave is always so eloquent, it's nice to hear the reaction at 2:00
"If I succeed, I'm looking for a harder project" - a great motto for life and against the compfort zone
I’m too motivated and can’t sleep properly before and after climbing days (every second day).
Love this man's energie and he just made my day
got totally shut down at the crag the other day, i love this perspective. sage wisdom my friend
As with most things in life, failing is part of success. You rarely learn new skills without first failing. Just bailed from a multi pitch route yesterday on Stac Pollaidh as I was pushing my grade and I ran out of energy … oh, and skill. 🤣
2:01 best thing I've ever seen
He has such a calming voice, that I just play these videos in the background while working.
Thanks for posting this. I have been struggling with a bit of a demoralising slump and lack of “successes” in my climbing recent and a handful of minor tweaks and twinges but it’s incredibly helpful to hear a high level climber talk about failure and not just their hard sends. Your attitude towards finding and pushing your own limits and not trying to reach somebody else’s I think has aided me in improving my approach to climbing and being able to actually enjoy my time on the wall regardless of weather I succeed on projects.
Thank you for all you do for climbing!
this was very insightful and fruitful for the mind
Thank you so much for this content, I feel like people tend to focus so much on the accomplishments that they forget about the process!
Being a piano teacher for the past 13 years I realized the most important thing in the learning process is figuring out what you like doing, what you would like to be able to do and what’s the best way to aim for the second without forgetting the first.
I have a friend I climb with who doesn’t care at all about doing harder grades, he just likes to climb what he can and he looks happy. My wife kind of uses the climbing gym as a lab where she can learn about her learning process and psychology. When I get too tired for my hard projects at my gym, I mix routes to tailor them to my level and it’s a lot of fun…
I think peoples tend to follow an implicit guideline as to what climbing should be and lack creativity and freedom with their learning process. Failure is a feeling, if to you not getting to the top of a route is a failure maybe the best thing would be to work on your feeling rather than on the route 😊
wow - that was motivating and inspiring - thanks so much Dave!
am really fascinated by your attitude and approach
Thank you Dave. You alone are providing mental strength and a view of happiness a lot of us lose in climbing.
cool to see you try the project for over a 1000 years (3:11)
Thanks, Dave. This is really encouraging.
Important message. Thanks, Dave. Great video.
loved this and needed to hear this. THANK YOU!
Good stuff! Being and older climber(hitting the BIG 50 next month), sometimes I feel stronger than ever, but do realize that working projects can be tough, having more weak days than strong days at times, and injuries happen and take longer to recover from. Keep the videos coming and the climbing strong. Looking forward to more from you!
Your videos are always a pleasure to watch, a source of inspiration and a chance for self-reflection.
Thank you so much Dave for your contribution and dedication to the climbing community.
I love listening to & watching your posts. From self-belaying tutorials, to training, to nutrition, and mental aspects of our sport. I always walk away with some insight I never thought about or forgot. U, Randy Leavitt, Lynn Hill, and Sharma have been an inspiration throughout my climbing journey. Thank you.
I've got the same mentality, love it mate! My mate is the opposite, he won't try anything he thinks Is too hard, can't get my head around it
Thanx again. Always learn a ton from youre videos. This made me wanna go back to my 3 year outdoor project. 👊
Great video as always mate. As an aging climber it remains a completely engrossing pursuit, as long as the judgement or regard of others is not a factor, and it is simply having a relationship with something you really want to work out how to do!
You are such an inspiration, thanks for sharing your wisdom ! :)
This was what I needed to see and hear. I've been working on a multi-year Alpine project. This year was supposed to be the year I finally got the crux down, but I ended up not being able to get it. Hopefully next year after some revised training and harder projects leading up to it will allow me to finally complete it.
Great words. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to see you're still bouldering just as hard a thousand years from now!
Great video. I recently really started enjoying projecting (for me) hard boulders. Granted, only in the gym because outside boulders and routes are not easy to reach for me. It feels great that, while at the start the boulders feel close to impossible, with some sessions done, real progress gets visible. The joy one can feel from sticking one move that previously was too hard is immense.
Another great one, Dave.
This spring I started ‘giving myself permission’ to try boulders that are 2-3 grades higher than my best redpoint. My focus has shifted to *trying* these hard things, while letting go of my attachment to *getting on top of* these hard things. It’s been loads of fun and I think I’ve been improving quite a lot.
I am starting to learn that a key to my long-term enjoyment as a climber lies in the intricate, engaging, and challenging movement that comes with hard climbs-and not necessarily the standard benchmark of success (“the send”). Indeed, if we are climbing hard enough we only spend somewhere around, oh I don’t know-1% of our time doing the sending… so we might as well enjoy the other 99% 😁
Thanks for the perspective. I don't think most people really understand the concept of projecting. For me, you've provided some further perspective on what a long term project might look like, rather than something that might be tangible in the first few sessions. Thank you for providing useful and valuable insight as always.
Right on, Dave. We love ya man!
3:08 what a stamina this Scottish Stallion has!
Interesting perspective showing why most of us will never be professionals :) Honestly, staring at the sky (preferably more blue visible...) in a setting like that is a win on its own in my book.
3:08 - I don't mean to be negative, Dave, but if you don't speed up the progress a bit, the rock might not be there when you're finally ready to complete the project
As always with your videos, an intelligent and insightful look at projecting. I found that I really connected with this content. One of those videos where you end up exclaiming... "yes that's so.true".
I've usually been with the same attitude for over 20 years but this is the first time I've really considered leaving a project. It's a sport climbing route and I can climb all the sequences together and also most of the crux.... except for this one single move which I've tried countless times now. So this video comes at the perfect time and i say thank you 1000 times. It kicks my ass again with a smile.
Thank you
3:10 Dave has trained so hard that he has achieved time travel! LOL
My first project was a my first 5.12 (7b) and was an FA in 1990. Been hooked ever since, and climbing harder than ever now. For me the only defeat is getting injured (I learned this from being a runner in college), which I have avoided now for over 33 years climbing hard (for me).
I need a mini version of you on my shoulder at all times when I climb…
Great philosophy class !🦍
Question: how do you program trying stuff that's too hard? Do you also need a few easier wins/more volume, and aren't they also good for learning and progression? Do you do 80%, 90% or 100% impossible projects, and 10% a few goes and 10% onsight? Tips on programming please! And thanks again for another inspiring video! totally agree and love spending time on stuff I can't do, but find myself a bit of an outlier as most people seem to prefer doing stuff they can do.
Having been a climber for over fifty years, I can still say that the things which have excited me most, and still motivate me to climb almost daily, have been the things I CAN'T do - YET! My current nemesis is a twenty-foot wall which I've been working on for two years, and I have yet to do some of the moves, even on a fixed line.
"IT'S 5AM, DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR GRANDFATHER IS?" 🤣🤣🤣
I think of both climbing and mountaineering as “useless”, I do them for the sake of do it. So reaching the summit or sending a route isn't really the reason, although from the heights the landscape looks amazing and that's my reward. I like your approach specially for hard stuff as it make things even more enjoyable just for the process and it makes a perfect reason for keep climbing and enjoying it even if it feels too hard.
About positive psychology! I think positive psychology has been misunderstood a lot and especially when it comes to coaching (not only in climbing)! Positive psychology is not about trying to keep a positive mindset, but rather, to have a positive (sometimes accepting) perspective about your life. Therefore, if we want to take the example of projecting, in front of a "failure" (no send), a positive psychologist wouln't ask you to think about one positive thing happened during the session, but rather how to integrate your experiences (no send, no progress) into a positive framework. Which is what you do spontaneously!
3:07 Nice to see some progress a millennia into the proj
dopest guy!
I think you have potential for higher grades. Have you tested your strength on projects outside the UK recently?
Can I ask a different climbing question, not related to this video? Not sure how else to get in touch with you...
My question is: what is the correct way to "half crimp"? I know, everybody says that the fingers should bend 90°, but what about the wrist? for me hanging with completely straight wrists feels good, but not that much stronger than open hand. So i think the mechanical advantage from the half crimp comes from bending the wrist aswell, right?. For me this feels a bit more sketchy and I think of it as "not so safe" as it's closer to a full crimp position. So which way is the correct way to train?
TLDR: my half crimp with straight wrist feels very weak on the wall on tiny crimps, am I crimping wrong?
Cheers
I could probably climb V7-8 consistently, but I climb V5-6 because I don't project. I like glancing at the direction a climb might go and then getting on and seeing if I can flash it. But the only way to climb like this consistently is by going to MULTIPLE gyms LOL! I love the creativity that arises from simply getting on the climb and seeing if my body figures it out on the fly. There's no feeling like it, but you need a LOT of options in order to climb like this with any frequency, and you only find that plethora of options at the gym. So yea, I guess I'm more of a plastic climber than a rock climber, and that's OK.
Hi dave, do you ever think about getting someone who you know is much stronger at thus type of boulder to come try it just to see it done to give you that motivation
Not really. I have plenty of motivation. It's strength I need.
As one of those people that just love projecting to the point of overtraining: don't you think that focusing on projecting so much impairs your long-term ability to improve? You climb F8b+ so I guess it doesn't matter that much when you are at the end of the high-performance spectrum. But what if people are climbing 7a or 8a? Does it make sense spending one year projecting your first 7b+? Because, I swear, I love it. But I wonder if it's really what the best for overall performance and wouldn't be better to fill that base of the pyramid. Especially consindering that 7b+ is far from the highest grade I want to achieve.
Thanks for your content!
Yes it would be a problem if you only did that for a whole year. But I do trad, big wall, sport, winter climbing, indoor training. So sinking some time into a one project is not an issue.
I thought you wrote falling. I'm always afraid I will fall and land badly and I will lose all my progress.
Sometimes i'm not happy with a send, cause the enjoying problem is done with that.
Oh no! That's my V0/1 project next to your project and you just f*cked it up playing around on in with your approach shoes 😩
Need more vids with your cat in it
I fall to rise and I rise to fall
Hi climbers! Could someone help me with some vocab?
I watched Dave's video earlier this week on toe scumming and proper positioning of the inside smearing foot. As I've been experiementing and watching better climbers in the gym, I've noticed a lot of the best climbers in my area do a weird toe scum that I don't know the name of.
It looks to me like they are using the top of their climbing shoe to smear with their foot positioned directly underneath them. It almost looks like a back flag except the foot is right below them and they're definitely pushing it into the wall and not just flagging it.
When I tried this move yesterday all I felt was $$$ of shoe rubber being ripped off the top of my foot. I'd love to know what this move is called so I can google some info on it!
Examples of how I saw this move used: One guy perched on a sloper, moved his foot underneath and past his perched foot, smeared with the top of his foot, and blew my mind by taking a no hands rest on a totally flat wall to chalk up. Another girl I watched was also perched with the same style of smear but she made a dynamic move and dragged it up towards her other foot to lock her into position on the worst crimp I've ever seen.
I'll take a punt: it's basically a flag (imo).
You mention "pushing it into the wall and not just flagging it" but that's exactly what you do in an "active" flag, and why Dave talks about pushing into the wall. In Dave's video, he's got his left hand and right foot on holds. These are used as pivot points. He pushes his flagging foot into the wall and this pitches his right arm into the wall so he can reach the next hold more easily.
In your example, the pivot point is the foot on the sloper. The flagging foot pushes into the wall which pitches the upper body into the wall. For this to work the foot on the sloper needs enough friction to stay on the hold. I have noticed myself doing it sometimes: it's something that is kind of instinctual, a lot of the time in tricky mantels/top outs. You can practice it perched on a kitchen counter if so inclined.
There is "inactive" flagging too, which I think you understand, which works well for balance (your flagging foot may not even be contacting the wall).
just wanted to kow has anyone else been trying this with you?
Is there any reason you aren't wearing shorts when using a knee pad? They seem to stick a lot better to skin.
I HAVE THE SAME KETTLE
Is yours dying as well?
@@climbermacleod yep, crack on top, light no longer works
3:10 I knew Dave is getting older but damn. A whole millenia old :O
3:10 it says 3023 instead of 2023 ❤️
Incase you haven't seen it!
Enjoy your content as always
1:00 looked like you were worried you were about to fall off the cliff?
Yeah I was looking worried because on an earlier session I did fall off it and it bloody hurt.
3:08 January 3023 😳
Since when do you have a cat Dave? Sweet kitty!
One year today!
Do you think that cat owners climb harder or dog owners?
🙂
more cat content please :)
Jan 3023
Autotelic personality :) Enjoy the process and not get hung up on the outcome
First
quite an achievement!