Tools are the one thing that are completely worth their weight in gold. My tool collection from working on things over the years has grown considerably and is COMPLETELY worth it. It's rare now that I don't have a tool that I can at the least make work for whatever I'm working on.
Jimmy, the tool you were using on the wrong end of the pitman arm. A balljoint fork is for the balljoint style end. Tip: take two hammer and hit either side of the balljoint and eventually it will pop
Made me laugh because its totally relatable to what we go through. Made me realize its not just me and to have patience Goin to check out the red head steering box for my gm. Fantastic video When all else fails theres always a grinder or sawzall. And a can do attitude
Thank you jimmy, for the great video, I normally, don't listen to some videos, that people, talk through, a lot, their mostly, boring, you keep us informed, and with, great pics, and explanations, of why, and what your doing, you keep us engaged, great job, and video, thank you!!!!
Hi jimmy When talking about your 2 inch lift was the lower control arm changed, because the geometry angle change with the lift is a sign that the lower control arm is slightly shorter than the upper control arm which will cause the wheels to be off camber and stick out more at the top of the tyer than the bottom of the tyre that makes contact with the road. Another thing is to reset the camber loabs on the upper control arm if it has the adjustment as with a lift kit the factory settings will not work and give you problems with uneven wear on the steering tyers more than the rear. Especially with independent front suspension vehicles. But most of all the 85 suburban is looking great.
Just ordered the same redhead steering box for my 99 k1500, was debating the kryptonite pitman arm and tie rods and trying to verify they’d fit when I found your channel! Think I’m gonna order them!
Awesome video! I’m watching this series very closely as I’m planning the exact same upgrade on my 1999 Chevy Suburban 5.7L 2wd. Great content and keep up the good work!! 👍
timely vid. I have 03 z71 Tahoe and replacing pitman and steering box this weekend. Went with BlueTop gear instead of Redhead. Thanks Jimmy for the tips.
Just remember, while there is a lot of adjustability in factory keys, after market ones are indexed different, cranking the stock keys to level the front can and will make the front end very stiff and will ride like a brick
Cranking the stock keys will not make it ride worse than aftermarket. Both ways add preload to the torsion bars. Aftermarket keys just make it where you can go higher than ~2” in the front, by adding more preload with the aftermarket key. A different index just gives more height, the bars still have the same load, and in most cases they’ll have even more load on them than stock keys. Suspension angles are the key to good ride quality on torsion bar trucks, good angles = good ride.
I applaude your effort! It appears that this type of work is a new experience. I would never consider doing suspension work without a compressor and impact gun. I buy OTC front end tools. I'm not sure why you are going with such heavy duty parts...the steering box makes sense...but I'm not sure what advantage the pitman/idler/tie rod has over OEM parts. I've had many bad experiences with overpriced aftermarket stuff. I'd rather spend money on quality tools. I still buy the best made parts I can buy. I can afford to do the work myself, saving money on labor, the parts hold up, and I have the tools for the next project.
@@slams777 I buy either OEM parts or Moog, usually from NAPA. I've heard some bad things about Moog lately, quality-wise. I've never had a problem with their stuff, but wanted to pass that along. We used to be able to rely on certain brands, but with the influx of cheapy parts, maybe not so much.
@@slams777 no bro, sorry, I don't. I had a bad experience doing that. There were cheesy parts mixed in withe the "full rebuild set". They we're supposed to be AC Delco. Maybe some were, not sure. I returned all of it and bought individual parts. It's more expensive this way, but those parts are still like new 4 years later. It was about 25% more, but I haven't replaced anything since.
@@Tommy_Mac I bought one of the cheesy kits off of eBay. It's still new in the box. I also do my own wrenching. I'm no stranger to front end work, having rebuilt the front suspension and brakes on my 68 el camino. I am in agreement with you though on quality parts and tools though. I'm going to piece my kit together for my 98 1500 2wd. It may cost a little more in the long run, but it won't have to be done again anytime soon because of cheap part. Then, there is also a safety factor in using cheap parts. Also in agreement with you on moog. My el camino has moog components. Compared from when I put those parts on 10 years ago to the moog parts today, some moog parts can be considered cheesy.
Be glad you only had that pitman arm nut. I installed a set of ARP head studs on my mom’s 2006 f350. 20 studs torqued 3 stages and the final stage being 210 ft lbs! Doing this with the cab on and using a topside creeper was NOT fun.
You NEED an impact wrench. A good 1/2 inch one. I just installed my redhead on my tahoe. I used my impact wrench on a setting that I know is around 180 ft- lb. I know this because I tested it with a torque wrench on my cv axle nut.
Love the channel, love the truck even more. I’m an owner of a 95 Tahoe with 171k miles on her. Looking to do the redhead and kryptonite steering upgrade to mine as well. My only question is weather you used Part # 2864S-MH-3T or the 2.5 quick turn option Part # 2864SQW-MH for the steering box?
If I have to reuse lock washers, I put them in a vice and bend them out a little bit like new. I would also find a way to get that diff back up as well. For more ground clearance.
Wonder if you had my problem? I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 that I had the gear box ,pittman arm and idler arm replaced. Steering is tighter than normal. Had them replace the gear box with another unit. Same issue. Your thoughts on replacing power steering pump or is there an adjustment to the gearbox that we are missing ? Curious to know if you had similar issues.
One thing I've learned is no parts store rents the correct pitman arm puller for these trucks so I just kept it and grinded the tips so they are thinner to fit between the drag link and pitman arm
Funny thing is I had this exact same issue with my rc 4 inch lift, I hooked up steering drop bracket and it was hitting my front crossmember so I had to grind it down, and then when I hooked everything up it was nowhere near hitting the crossmember
I plan to do something very similar to my front end. 2" diff drop bracket, no lift. Completely refreshed suspension with polyurethane control arm bushings. I'd like to see how your cv angles are with the diff drop bracket and stock height suspension.
@@1RoadGarage yes, but you are using stock torsion bar keys and stock control arms and knuckles. It's all within the realm of stock height if you can achieve the height by adjusting the stock torsion bar keys. Regardless, I'd like to see how yours works out. I bought stock replacement steering parts. I've looked at the kryptonite stuff but it's more than I wanted to spend. I got lifetime warranty parts and hopefully they are beefy enough for my application. If they aren't, I'll upgrade to the kryptonite stuff. I have a 650hp k2500 with lockers in the front and rear axles.
ive always wanted to get a 6” lift and turn the bars down to 4” lift for nice cv angles. but instead i dropped an 85 chevy straight axle under it🤷🏻♂️ you trying to just drop cv angles?
I have a question and maybe you can answer it. If youre only replacing the steering gearbox is it necessary to remove the rest of the steering components in order to remove the gearbox, or does everything have to be removed in order for the gearbox to come out?
Hey Jimmy great video thanks for reminding all of us that were human calm-down there's ways to figure stuff out by the way what happened to the shop dog
Any time you change a steering box on Chevy 4x4 trucks based vehicles, clean the area around the 3 steering box mount holes on both sides of frame and bright light inspect for cracks/deformity. Serious. I would then mount the box, then mount the drag link to the steering box and let the truck hold the box while you put the Harley torque on it. Plus they can be a bear to get back off so it's better to have the box and all or most the other pieces in place (and lined up right) before torquing when possible. I would use aluminum anti-seize about everywhere for this job also. Especially if I'm keeping the vehicle. Everything on your chassis you take apart and put back together with anti-seize will never bust your knuckles when you take it apart the next time. You won't be messing with PB Blaster. You'll break torque and walla. It works.
@@1RoadGarage right on, now you've got motivation to do it. Thanks for the videos, I love that you keep that thing nice. I own an 87 shortbed which was the first year tbi and that's how I found your channel. Keep up the nice work!
The Pitman arm puller was the wrong tool because you were using it in the wrong place for the wrong thing. The puller is used to separate the Pitman arm from the steering box. To separate the Pitman arm from the center link you should have used a pickle fork and a hammer in the same manner as you would with a tie rod end. I'm getting ready to do a lot of the same work on my own '95 Suburban K2500. Unfortunately Kryptonite is just a wee bit out of my budget though. So I'll be sticking with the stock center link and using Moog idler and Pitman arms, Mevotech TTX tie rod ends and Cunningham Machine tie rod sleeves. No way will it be as stout as the Kryptonite stuff but it should be stout enough without breaking the bank and still look decent too.
Good stuff Jimmy! I think the word you were trying not to use is Anal... It's OK, were all get that way when working with expensive new parts for the first time. Really enjoyed this one... got a Pitman-arm job in my not so distant future and this answered a few concerns I had. Keep putting out these videos for all us Suburban owners... we appreciate it. Where's a link for the Redhead stuff? JK... Thanks again.
Lmao the pitman arm puller isn't for that nut as you can see. That is for getting the pitman off the steering box. You'd use a tuning/pickle fork to separate the pitman arm from center link
just a curiousity. on my 1998 k3500 (same front suspension components and driveline shcematics , ok, some minors changes) my center link is the same but tie rods lengths are different from driver to passenger sides. way different measures, why? i understand center link is in the middle of the driveline truck,. Any explanation? if i try to take both tie rods with same measure the tires on the pavement one is going straight but the other way out or way in (dont remember). Why? just curiosity.
Killer steering upgrade! I've been thinking about something similar on my 98 2door for a while. Question, I noticed some rubber spacers under your front diff skid plate were those needed because of the lift kit? Or is that a how that plate is supposed to be ran?
watched a video of a guy comparing red head to blue head tos p.s.c. with p.s.c parts being the best. I don't have $500 right now. went with a Napa gear box. then watched a few videos of guys rebuilding gear boxes for $20-40. think I may uncross thread my 11/12 year box. install the new one. rebuild my old box. hopefully rethread the mounting hole. have myself a new gear box. or take back the new one. either way. it's annoying. any thoughts?
Lol. This sounds like what happens to me when I work on my suburban. Glad it worked out and it was just user error. I always feel better knowing it was me and not the product. Cuz then I don’t have to return anything. So how did you can you work on a greasy oily dirty front end and your white t shirt is perfectly white?
Was someone able to get it aligned. I’ve got another apparently there are knock out pins in control arms had to come out that didn’t happen. Tires wear good though
Even if you had the right puller, that pitman arm may not have come loose from the box anyway. They're notoriously difficult to the point that I and many others don't bother in the first place, and simply buy a new one. It's money ahead when you compare the man hours you spend fighting it.
No cutting is required in this job if you have the proper tools - not even to reach the bolt inside the frame!! At least you admit you didn’t have the right tools for the job. Completed this job earlier this year on 95 K1500…pulling the front differential makes the job a lot easier.
Tools are the one thing that are completely worth their weight in gold. My tool collection from working on things over the years has grown considerably and is COMPLETELY worth it. It's rare now that I don't have a tool that I can at the least make work for whatever I'm working on.
Jimmy, the tool you were using on the wrong end of the pitman arm. A balljoint fork is for the balljoint style end. Tip: take two hammer and hit either side of the balljoint and eventually it will pop
Awesome video Jimmy, I like the fact that you are not afraid to show the heartaches but also solving the issue great job. Aloha from Kansas
I like that Jimmy shows his mistakes to, he's a true shadetree mechanic. Keep em coming Jimmy and I love the obs Chevys to.
Yes sir
Yeah, we all sometimes make our own personal hell trying to do things...cough "right". Thanks for sharing, we've all been there.
Seeing you and autoedits do this exact upgrade has convinced me to do the same.
You are about the same generation as me I thank you for your perseverance, what a brutal beast.. Carry on, hero
Made me laugh because its totally relatable to what we go through.
Made me realize its not just me and to have patience
Goin to check out the red head steering box for my gm.
Fantastic video
When all else fails theres always a grinder or sawzall.
And a can do attitude
You said maybe what I'm doing here might help someone somewhere I thank you. You gave me an idea, and I explained it in detail.
Thank you jimmy, for the great video, I normally, don't listen to some videos, that people, talk through, a lot, their mostly, boring, you keep us informed, and with, great pics, and explanations, of why, and what your doing, you keep us engaged, great job, and video, thank you!!!!
Hi jimmy
When talking about your 2 inch lift was the lower control arm changed, because the geometry angle change with the lift is a sign that the lower control arm is slightly shorter than the upper control arm which will cause the wheels to be off camber and stick out more at the top of the tyer than the bottom of the tyre that makes contact with the road.
Another thing is to reset the camber loabs on the upper control arm if it has the adjustment as with a lift kit the factory settings will not work and give you problems with uneven wear on the steering tyers more than the rear.
Especially with independent front suspension vehicles.
But most of all the 85 suburban is looking great.
Just ordered the same redhead steering box for my 99 k1500, was debating the kryptonite pitman arm and tie rods and trying to verify they’d fit when I found your channel! Think I’m gonna order them!
How the kryptonite parts work out?
Awesome video! I’m watching this series very closely as I’m planning the exact same upgrade on my 1999 Chevy Suburban 5.7L 2wd. Great content and keep up the good work!! 👍
timely vid. I have 03 z71 Tahoe and replacing pitman and steering box this weekend. Went with BlueTop gear instead of Redhead. Thanks Jimmy for the tips.
Just remember, while there is a lot of adjustability in factory keys, after market ones are indexed different, cranking the stock keys to level the front can and will make the front end very stiff and will ride like a brick
Cranking the stock keys will not make it ride worse than aftermarket. Both ways add preload to the torsion bars. Aftermarket keys just make it where you can go higher than ~2” in the front, by adding more preload with the aftermarket key. A different index just gives more height, the bars still have the same load, and in most cases they’ll have even more load on them than stock keys. Suspension angles are the key to good ride quality on torsion bar trucks, good angles = good ride.
I applaude your effort! It appears that this type of work is a new experience. I would never consider doing suspension work without a compressor and impact gun. I buy OTC front end tools. I'm not sure why you are going with such heavy duty parts...the steering box makes sense...but I'm not sure what advantage the pitman/idler/tie rod has over OEM parts. I've had many bad experiences with overpriced aftermarket stuff. I'd rather spend money on quality tools. I still buy the best made parts I can buy. I can afford to do the work myself, saving money on labor, the parts hold up, and I have the tools for the next project.
I agree . What parts do you suggest for a k 2500 4x4
@@slams777 I buy either OEM parts or Moog, usually from NAPA. I've heard some bad things about Moog lately, quality-wise. I've never had a problem with their stuff, but wanted to pass that along. We used to be able to rely on certain brands, but with the influx of cheapy parts, maybe not so much.
@@Tommy_Mac mac daddy do you have a link to a full set for a 93 4x4 2500
@@slams777 no bro, sorry, I don't. I had a bad experience doing that. There were cheesy parts mixed in withe the "full rebuild set". They we're supposed to be AC Delco. Maybe some were, not sure. I returned all of it and bought individual parts. It's more expensive this way, but those parts are still like new 4 years later. It was about 25% more, but I haven't replaced anything since.
@@Tommy_Mac I bought one of the cheesy kits off of eBay. It's still new in the box. I also do my own wrenching. I'm no stranger to front end work, having rebuilt the front suspension and brakes on my 68 el camino. I am in agreement with you though on quality parts and tools though. I'm going to piece my kit together for my 98 1500 2wd. It may cost a little more in the long run, but it won't have to be done again anytime soon because of cheap part. Then, there is also a safety factor in using cheap parts. Also in agreement with you on moog. My el camino has moog components. Compared from when I put those parts on 10 years ago to the moog parts today, some moog parts can be considered cheesy.
Handsome, charming and pays attention to detail. 🥰
Excellent video and camera work. Thanks for explaining the step by step as I am go to do this to my rig as well.
Just makes sense.
Be glad you only had that pitman arm nut. I installed a set of ARP head studs on my mom’s 2006 f350. 20 studs torqued 3 stages and the final stage being 210 ft lbs! Doing this with the cab on and using a topside creeper was NOT fun.
What??!! Dang dude, you win.
Also you need to mount the steering box in the truck in order to truly tighten it down safely or in a bench vise.
You NEED an impact wrench. A good 1/2 inch one. I just installed my redhead on my tahoe. I used my impact wrench on a setting that I know is around 180 ft- lb. I know this because I tested it with a torque wrench on my cv axle nut.
Looks like fun lol. Had me for a min thought those were the death freight jack stands!
Never knew about the stopping points on the steering knuckle thanks for the info
Ha HA (Nelson voice), you like to check if everything fits...😄😁JK. love the videos
Got a custom steering gear from them with double porting for a dual hydro ram steering setup on My Ford excursion lifted 1 ton
Great video! 👍 Excited to see the next one with everything working together...
Great video, enjoy the detail and looking forward to your review of the ride/handling when you get it buttoned up.
Love the channel, love the truck even more. I’m an owner of a 95 Tahoe with 171k miles on her. Looking to do the redhead and kryptonite steering upgrade to mine as well. My only question is weather you used Part # 2864S-MH-3T or the 2.5 quick turn option Part # 2864SQW-MH for the steering box?
I did not use quick turn.
Just finished building NY own power steering gearbox on 2001 tahoe. Was a piece of cake to do.
Redhead steering gears are my favorite company for steering
If I have to reuse lock washers, I put them in a vice and bend them out a little bit like new. I would also find a way to get that diff back up as well. For more ground clearance.
OMG you are such a new bee at this
Love the DIYs! And yes, it helps others.
Wonder if you had my problem? I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 that I had the gear box ,pittman arm and idler arm replaced. Steering is tighter than normal. Had them replace the gear box with another unit. Same issue. Your thoughts on replacing power steering pump or is there an adjustment to the gearbox that we are missing ? Curious to know if you had similar issues.
One thing I've learned is no parts store rents the correct pitman arm puller for these trucks so I just kept it and grinded the tips so they are thinner to fit between the drag link and pitman arm
you can also use a tie rod puller,just dremel away the 1-2mm inside casting hump and it will slide on
Funny thing is I had this exact same issue with my rc 4 inch lift, I hooked up steering drop bracket and it was hitting my front crossmember so I had to grind it down, and then when I hooked everything up it was nowhere near hitting the crossmember
Jimmy- king of murphys law.
Nice! I too tends to learn the hard way he he. Good job!
I plan to do something very similar to my front end. 2" diff drop bracket, no lift. Completely refreshed suspension with polyurethane control arm bushings.
I'd like to see how your cv angles are with the diff drop bracket and stock height suspension.
It’ll be a little taller that stock height.
@@1RoadGarage yes, but you are using stock torsion bar keys and stock control arms and knuckles. It's all within the realm of stock height if you can achieve the height by adjusting the stock torsion bar keys.
Regardless, I'd like to see how yours works out. I bought stock replacement steering parts. I've looked at the kryptonite stuff but it's more than I wanted to spend. I got lifetime warranty parts and hopefully they are beefy enough for my application. If they aren't, I'll upgrade to the kryptonite stuff.
I have a 650hp k2500 with lockers in the front and rear axles.
ive always wanted to get a 6” lift and turn the bars down to 4” lift for nice cv angles. but instead i dropped an 85 chevy straight axle under it🤷🏻♂️ you trying to just drop cv angles?
I have a question and maybe you can answer it. If youre only replacing the steering gearbox is it necessary to remove the rest of the steering components in order to remove the gearbox, or does everything have to be removed in order for the gearbox to come out?
Way to go Jimmy.....
Thank you!
Mount the steering box inside the fender well and use a tiedown strap on the Pitman arm and go to town, torques easy
Are those pitman arms and steering bars better , stronger quality?
Hey 1. Good video. Thanks for sharing. 🍁👍👍
Great detailed video Jimmy 👍!
Hey Jimmy great video thanks for reminding all of us that were human calm-down there's ways to figure stuff out by the way what happened to the shop dog
Haha! I’ve got to get him in another video!
Any time you change a steering box on Chevy 4x4 trucks based vehicles, clean the area around the 3 steering box mount holes on both sides of frame and bright light inspect for cracks/deformity. Serious.
I would then mount the box, then mount the drag link to the steering box and let the truck hold the box while you put the Harley torque on it. Plus they can be a bear to get back off so it's better to have the box and all or most the other pieces in place (and lined up right) before torquing when possible. I would use aluminum anti-seize about everywhere for this job also. Especially if I'm keeping the vehicle. Everything on your chassis you take apart and put back together with anti-seize will never bust your knuckles when you take it apart the next time. You won't be messing with PB Blaster. You'll break torque and walla. It works.
Just did all this myself. Used a hammer to get the pitman and idler arm off
A bench vise or maybe bracing the arm in the floor is the only way to get that to 185ft/lbs. I usually give it the ugga dugga method at my shop.
I’ve got a vise just not bolted down. 😂🤦♂️
@@1RoadGarage right on, now you've got motivation to do it. Thanks for the videos, I love that you keep that thing nice. I own an 87 shortbed which was the first year tbi and that's how I found your channel. Keep up the nice work!
The 150 he did was plenty
@@sicsam1 I agree
And a nice Precision torque 250 ft pound split beam torque wrench along with a 24 inch adjustable wrench to go on the flats of that pittman arm.
Did the factory sway bar end links work or did you need new lengths for those?
Invest in a bench vise. Would make torquing bolts a lot easier
Yes sir
Get a cordless impact and give'r...💪
The Pitman arm puller was the wrong tool because you were using it in the wrong place for the wrong thing. The puller is used to separate the Pitman arm from the steering box. To separate the Pitman arm from the center link you should have used a pickle fork and a hammer in the same manner as you would with a tie rod end.
I'm getting ready to do a lot of the same work on my own '95 Suburban K2500. Unfortunately Kryptonite is just a wee bit out of my budget though. So I'll be sticking with the stock center link and using Moog idler and Pitman arms, Mevotech TTX tie rod ends and Cunningham Machine tie rod sleeves. No way will it be as stout as the Kryptonite stuff but it should be stout enough without breaking the bank and still look decent too.
Good stuff Jimmy! I think the word you were trying not to use is Anal... It's OK, were all get that way when working with expensive new parts for the first time. Really enjoyed this one... got a Pitman-arm job in my not so distant future and this answered a few concerns I had. Keep putting out these videos for all us Suburban owners... we appreciate it. Where's a link for the Redhead stuff? JK... Thanks again.
So does the $1k worth of super hd steering parts make the truck any better?
I wonder if all this stuff your doing would work on my 1996 Chevy Silverado 1500
Great job ..thanks
Lmao the pitman arm puller isn't for that nut as you can see. That is for getting the pitman off the steering box. You'd use a tuning/pickle fork to separate the pitman arm from center link
I was thinking couldn't you just use a ball joint fork 🤔, glad to see my instincts were on track
Why upgrade that stuff? What’s the benefit? Genuinely curious
Gloves are a must for RUclips. 😂
thats what i need
I had to grind the ears down on the puller. I did a steep angle little by little till it fit.
Great products
just a curiousity. on my 1998 k3500 (same front suspension components and driveline shcematics , ok, some minors changes) my center link is the same but tie rods lengths are different from driver to passenger sides. way different measures, why? i understand center link is in the middle of the driveline truck,. Any explanation? if i try to take both tie rods with same measure the tires on the pavement one is going straight but the other way out or way in (dont remember). Why? just curiosity.
Would u think about selling the upper control arms for the lift?
did you order the 3 spline or 4 spline pitman arm for the redhead gearbox
Can you show how much slop there is in the steering wheel with the new Redhead steering box?
how's the clock spring?
I hope you let Kryptonire know what happened so they could stop worrying about a possible manufacturing problem. Looks good !!
Yes, long conversation with them. They’re awesome over there.
I have a 92 gmc and I was wondering how you found kryptonite products for yours? Their website features 99 and on?
Killer steering upgrade! I've been thinking about something similar on my 98 2door for a while. Question, I noticed some rubber spacers under your front diff skid plate were those needed because of the lift kit? Or is that a how that plate is supposed to be ran?
He has a rough country 3inch lift, which drops the front differential a bit, im guessing that’s what those spacers are on his skid plate
Im think It's to keep the pinion angle correct with the lift kit
I was considering one for my 1997 ram 3500 but people are giving bad reviews
Another great quality video
watched a video of a guy comparing red head to blue head tos p.s.c. with p.s.c parts being the best. I don't have $500 right now. went with a Napa gear box. then watched a few videos of guys rebuilding gear boxes for $20-40. think I may uncross thread my 11/12 year box. install the new one. rebuild my old box. hopefully rethread the mounting hole. have myself a new gear box. or take back the new one. either way. it's annoying. any thoughts?
Just found your channel and subscribed.
Lol. This sounds like what happens to me when I work on my suburban. Glad it worked out and it was just user error. I always feel better knowing it was me and not the product. Cuz then I don’t have to return anything. So how did you can you work on a greasy oily dirty front end and your white t shirt is perfectly white?
Was someone able to get it aligned. I’ve got another apparently there are knock out pins in control arms had to come out that didn’t happen. Tires wear good though
“LEE POWER STEERING“ is the best on the planet
Digital torque wrench head from harbor freight would work, if you really want to get it to 185 Ft.IBS.
Can u do more envoy vids there arent that many on RUclips that are as detailed like yours please....
I have to do a new fuel pump soon 👍
@@1RoadGarage me too I have a 2005 envoy I have alot of work to do on it and your vids help me out alot thanks
Even if you had the right puller, that pitman arm may not have come loose from the box anyway. They're notoriously difficult to the point that I and many others don't bother in the first place, and simply buy a new one. It's money ahead when you compare the man hours you spend fighting it.
You have to shave down the Putnam puller with a grinder. The teeth, the idler is fun Loose every bolt 3000 lol.
One time this truck broke the bolts to the box off. Guess cross thread magic from the local shop.
I'd torque it to about 3 uga dugas with my nitrocat 1250k. And yes, that is a technical term 🤣
That was a lot of work.
Nice One!
Question, I got a 95 Tahoe. What are the possible benefits to installing this upgrade to the steering?
Quicker steering
How do you know which way pitman arm goes on. U said 1 of 4 ways so any of those
What is the part nunber or where can i order for my 99 suburban .... thank you
Very cool vid Jimmy, cant wait for the next one 💯👌
9:02 oh man, get a bench vise 😂
How’s the gas prices in TN? I imagine it’s hard to justify driving around a suburban now
Put the steering gear on the truck then tighten the pitman arm
do you have a video on you fog lights?
Looks beefy Jimmy. Definitely resolves the weakest points of the Burb's frontend.
No cutting is required in this job if you have the proper tools - not even to reach the bolt inside the frame!!
At least you admit you didn’t have the right tools for the job.
Completed this job earlier this year on 95 K1500…pulling the front differential makes the job a lot easier.
My 02 Silverado called for a 1-5/16" socket. 🤷♂
nicee 👋👌
Glad you liked it!
@@1RoadGarage didnt liked i loved 😆😁 thanks 4 the time you take to edit and share with us 🤙👌
next time you need a Vice on you bench and use a electric or pneumatic impact gun to get the nut started
U can put a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee steering column
Ive had to replace my gearbox 4 times and still have wheel slop.