Thanks for tuning in Richard. What a great car the Niro is. Is it the previous version E-Niro or the new Niro-EV? I’m due to range test one soon so make sure you keep the notifications on 👍
Always interested in other people's / car's efficiencies compared with my Enyaq 80 Sportline. In the 5 months I've had it, the overall consumption is 4.1 miles/kwH. Started higher but has dropped with the colder temperatures. Did a very similar trip to this video last week with 3.3 miles/kwH outward & 3.4 on the return. Really like the look of the MG4.
That’s a fantastic car you have - a bit out of our budget but was on the list. That’s some great efficiencies for the temperatures considering the size and weight of the vehicle. Thanks for tuning in😊
For the record drove my Tesla M3 RWD LFP, on a similar 40 mile mixed journey last Saturday, when the temperature was at -4 to -5 deg. Managed 'only' 3.6m/kwh. During our hot summer we were averaging 5.3m/kwh. Anyway your MG is looking pretty impressive!
That's some impressive figures, I wish mine was that efficient but mine's over 2 years older and the standard plus is incredibly efficient. I'm hoping we'll see high figures for MG4 in the summer
@@RB-lt8kt That's my average efficiency over 5100miles since March this year. A/C was always on during the hot summer. However, it doesn't seem to affect effiency that much. Yes, I'm not a fast driver trying to keep below 70 on motorways. I'm sure the one-pedal driving regen is where the savings are made. You just learn how to drive so as not to waste energy. As we head into the colder winter no doubt efficiency will seriously drop. I will post figures when we get to March next year.
Again a REAL test explained really well from start to finish, excellent. So much better than some on You Tube who happen to also sell EV cars and don't give all the information such as they drive at 60 mph on motorway etc. I know that part of the M5 you were on very well as always use Tewkesbury exit to go towards Evesham / Coventry missing out the M42 when travelling to midlands or beyond for work.
Thanks for tuning in and the great comments. It almost seems pointless unless you extract some data out of it. It’s important if you want people to join you on the ride to see and experience it as you do. Yes, Tewkesbury indeed. It’s a rubbish bit of motorway there, always congested if you hit it at the wrong time 👍
A great video Stuart,it just goes to show how good the MG4 is.I haven't had a chance to do this kind of test yet in my MG4 Trophy.keep the videos coming ,I'm enjoying them.Im also looking forward to Tesla Byjorn Nyland doing an in depth test on the MG4,although in one of his videos he mentioned about the MG4s interior being shity but that I don't agree with.Any way take care and stay safe.
Thanks Graham. Sorry I haven’t acknowledged your comment, it winded up in the spam probs for Bjorn’s comment. It’s a great car indeed. Many including Bjorn may not be impressed about some things, but it’s subjective and for the 💰it shouldn’t be overlooked
@@stuart_thomas Hi Stuart I don't expect you to reply as I think you are probably a busy family man going back and forth to work etc and trying to get your video editing done.Yes the MG4 is a very good car for the 💰.I think what it is with Byjorn is that he is always testing high end cars and gets used to the luxury's and the build quality.saying that I know he thinks nothing else compares with the Tesla but to be honest I've seen some shoddy build quality issues with some Tesla's,how's yours holding up by the way.I was concidering a Tesla Myself but the prices just seem going up even though I can afford to buy one I don't believe in throwing my money away on a whim just to own one.Im more of a middle of the road man who likes a good value for money car that ticks all the boxes,and besides I'm loath To be paying an extra £300 Plus luxury tax on top of the normal road tax for the next five or so years.Any way Stuart it's nice to have a chat without being Trolled on the face book forum's.Take care and stay safe,even more so in these weather conditions.
Hi Graham - sorry i haven't replied, I try to reply to most people who take time to ask a sensible question or just want to chat MG4/EVS. For whatever reason, your message went in my spam. I do check it as it has a habit of organising sensible messages with rubbish for some reason. Thanks for the positive feedback! RE: Bjorn. I love Bjorn's videos, there's a level of understanding in his content which isn't for everyone and I'd be the first to say that sometimes what he does despite his professionalism isn't necessarily a true representation of consumer use, but I like the guy and what he does and yes, you're right he does spend a lot of time in higher-end cars but he has had some wonderful feedback on MG ZS EV which I think he got spot on. Still have the Tesla M3 LR, I love it, it's a fantastic car and nearly 3 years on i still get excited driving it. Until you've driven one and compared it to other ICE and EVs you can understand the attention whether for better or worse. Their vertical integration is fantastic and yes, i did have a lot of issues with it when it arrived, most were QC-related and these should have been dealt with prior to delivery (that's what the consumer expects) and many of these issues were from the Fremont factory in CA and these were fixed, but it seems this is the new model most manufacturers have adopted now, build now, fix later which is fine if the consumer understands the expectation and as long as the issues are resolved which mine were it's not a big drama even with a bigger price tag. Is it worth double the price of an MG4, it's subjective and I don't. But when we got ours, it was nearly 10k less than it is now which i think is correct. I think this is why I'm personally very chilled out about 'MG4 issues' and I think there are more people rating the MG4 than complaining about it and if you speak with most from my experience on my channel and some social circles, their issues have been resolved and they're extremely happy. Most other bits are software, not hardware related which will be resolved in time, my Tesla has 2 updates a month so it's really nothing. I know there are many out there to who this is their first experience with EVs and this is a protocol they're just not used to. It's a learning curve for sure. Thanks again for tuning in and supporting my channel.
@@techgeek2994 not at all. I think two hours driving range is more than enough without a break. A winning factor is LFP chemistry battery. It’s nice that I can charge to 100% everyday and I have a full battery. I charge from home so my cheap tariff will nearly cover a full charge in one night.
Good vid as usual, as you say the teslas is 30 grand dearer, I doubt if you could use that amount of extra electricity in the mg4 in quite a number of lifetimes. 🤣
@@stuart_thomas I cancelled my order for EV Peugeot 2008 GT premium which had all that plus self parking yesterday and placed an order for MG4 Trophy and I am sure I’ll miss all those extras. Had EV Peugeot 2008 GT delivered in March last year but sadly was stolen in September last year with only 2000 miles.
Really great information on real life driving I think the mg4 or Nissan Leaf 2nd gen will be my first EV both would be used so videos like this will help
Thanks for continuing your ownership experience of the MG4. It seems to me that the real ‘range monsters’ outside of Tesla are front wheel drive cars like the Hyundai Ioniq (the original one), Kona and the Kia e-Niro (my ride since March 2019). Data suggests that 80% of braking is done by the front brakes...probably why we end up changing the front pads and discs before the rears...irrespective the car being front/rear drive...I’m talking about 40 plus years of driving ICE vehicles here. Coming off the accelerator or applying the brakes in an EV turns the motor into a generator, slowing the car down at a rate determined by the re-gen setting...and in a front drive car this seems to result in more re-gen and I guess better miles/kWh. Over 73,000 km the winter/summer average on the e-Niro is 4.3 miles/kWh....Rear drive cars of similar size and weight (ID3, Cupra, MG4) but better cd rating (the Niro is a bit of a brick)...don’t seem to do any better. It will be interesting to see how the front/rear drive argument pans out as more ‘ground up’ EVs like the MG4 come onto the market. The newer Hyundai/Kia/Genesis are all RWD based on the EGMP platform, as are the VW Group MEB cars....whereas the Renault/Nissan CMF are predominately FWD.
Thanks for tuning in and another great comment. I think you’re totally right. Also, FWD uses less traction at speed hence the better efficiency. I wonder if the consumer had the choice they’d prefer greater tyre/disc wear and better efficiency over the alternative?
@@stuart_thomas It will be interesting to see how things evolve over the coming years. RWD appeals to me for the obvious driving pleasure reasons but also because the drive train is behind you..which should make it even quieter..I don’t know having never driven a RWD EV..The e-Niro is still to me a very quiet car. Perhaps a way forward would be to have an ultra-capacitor to capture the kinetic energy from the front wheel breaking and somehow make that energy available to the read drive. No doubt some clever folks are already working on that. 🙂
You probably know the SR model has an LFP battery which performs less well at 0 C and below than the NMC one. It's the main disadvantage of LFP, but the many advantages outweigh that. By coincidence I did my first longish trip this morning and checked its consumption. First leg of 29 mls averaged 2.9ml/kWhr, the return leg was 3.3mls/kWhr. The temp on outward journey was -4C to -3C, and on the return was about 1C. the route on the A38 dual carriageway was very hilly and twisty and I was only going at 60-65 mph due to snow and sleet showers. For LFP I was delighted.
That’s great news James. That’s some good figures and I’m hoping with some software updates that can be slightly improved. It won’t be as efficient as the NMC pack but like you said it has a lot of pros. It’s amazing how much more efficient the car can be just be dropping 5mph.
He was certainly jam packed, shame he’s only delivering the one to someone but I guess that’s better than nothing. Hopefully yours won’t be too long away. Thanks again for tuning in and the positive comments 😊
I see your favourite heater setting is 22C and fan on 1, do you have the Air Recirculation Mode set to Recirculate, Fresh or Automatic Circulation with that low fan speed in this cold damp weather? Auto Circ for me seems to keep the heat better but occasionally suffers cold draughts but stops the misting whilst full recirculate suffers misting, not sure I've discovered the optimum as yet. Also are you A/C on or off?? Great videos, keep it up.
Just saying that the comparison was closer than you reported, as you accidentally put the MG4's outward journey stats up for the return journey. 2.9 m/kwh instead of 3.1 m/kwh. Which is significantly closer to the Tesla's 3.17 m/kw. Yes, it was colder for the Tesla though.
My experience with -5 to -10 degrees in Southern Bavaria is: 21 - 25 kWh/100 km with longer trips and 30-35 kWh/100 km with short trips and cooling down the car if you don't have a closed garage which is extremely helpful. The display does not show average values higher than 29,8 kWh/100 km and it takes 10-15 minutes until the value drops lower than 29,8. At a 50 km trip, 1/3 of the total amount of energy is for warming up and heating the inner space which is necessary to have a clear view. I have got the SE Long Range version (mid variant). Yesterday, I made a trip with extreme weather conditions. 280 km with partial snowfall and temperature -8 degrees. Energy amount was 21 kWh/100 km, although one half of the trip was an empty motorway (120-150 km/h). After finishing the trip, the front disappeared under a 2 cm layer of ice. Today, the weather turned to a sunny, but still very cold day, and I turned the front into the noon sun to remove the ice layer. Because an electric car does not generate heat, snow and ice gets a serious problem. Anyway, the trip worked fine although the ventilation grille was under the ice layer. I had problems with the front and side view/ventilation, but now I realized that I have to turn the ventilation mode from inner circulating air to outside air. There seems to be a bug: I can only choose between front glass ventilation or inner space ventilation (which is necessary for side view), but both would be necessary. The piloting functionality was offline, of course: The sensors and cameras were also under the ice layer.
Hi Martin thanks for your take on your experience with your long range SE. Some really interesting figures there. I have been predicting for around - zero degrees Celsius temperatures anything from 35-25% reduction so you’re experiencing the 33ish% which is quite considerable but understandable for sub-zero conditions. Yours does have a different battery chemistry but naturally struggle at freezing temperatures until the pack is warm. Thanks for this
@@stuart_thomas I have heared that the SE Standard with its LFP battery is less winter-suitable. This point and the fact that only the Long Range and the Trophy version have got 11 kW AC loaders (in Germany, we have 3 phase wires, but each phase only with 16 A, so a SE Standard can only be loaded with 3,5 instead of 7 kW) was the reason for my choice. German RUclipsrs reported that they were enabled to load with 100 kW with a cold battery with the LiIon variant.
Hi Stuart, love the content. When you say the car is "using 30%" when going up an incline and "11%" going down the other side... do you mean "30kw" and "11kw" ? We've just bought a BYD Atto 3 in Perth Australia and you've motivated us to start a regular 102km round journey around the Mandurah Inlet to compare a standard speed limit test with hypermiling the same journey. Of course, our average temperatures are more in the 20-30°C at 4pm (not the 1-5°C you have... thank goodness). We'll keep watching your progress with the MG4 with interest. Stephen and Charles.
Hi guys thanks for tuning in and the great question. Wow, your adventures sound fantastic (not jealous). I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Atto. How are you getting on with it? Mg use % value to represent how much the vehicle is using in terms of max power available. Unfortunately It’s not a true kw value representation but it’s a good consumer tool to get to grips with finding the sweet spot of where your throttle is most efficient to achieve certain speeds. A bit like a rev counter but RPM has been changed to %. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for tuning again and i look forward to coming along for the ride on your adventures.
Your comment about the screen demist being a button for direct access highlights a drawback in the 4 - to change the drive mode you DO have to dig into a menu. That’s a negative for me.
Thanks for tuning in and commenting. It’s a fair opinion. Luckily, it’s software based so I hope in the future with OS iterations it can become a quick function from the screen or steering wheel
Thanks for tuning in - Tesla’s are generally just more efficient. Better Co-drag rating, lighter in terms of components and more sophisticated drive train and battery pack. Heat pump definitely helps especially for heating the vehicle from cold. You have to remember the Model3 LR weighs more or less the same as the MG4 but it’s carrying a 70kWh pack and two motors and is a bigger car. But that’s was £30k gets you😊 MG4 is good though and it’s in early stages of software. Modern iterations should help the vehicle. To put into context I tested an id.3 today which has a bigger battery than the MG4 SE std and had similar efficiencies and has a NCM battery (not LFP)
Good video Stuart.. I have one of these on order (same version as yours) the car will be used for city driving (10 mile round trip daily) and the odd run to parents (40 mile round trip). Surely this version is adequate? Impressed with price compared to other EV that I get through work scheme. Charger installed free of charge at home as well.
I'm considering ordering one of these in the next few weeks, everything looks great on them and this test is a fantastic review as its nearly the same type of journey i'd do a lot! one question is why is the traffic speed sign flashing constantly on the drivers display? is it because you are over the speed limit? it seems to be very distracting!
Thanks for tuning in and the question. It's an option in the driving set-up for the car to acknowledge road speed signs. As I'm at 70 it's warning me as I'm at the limit. Drop 1 mph below it and it disappears. This is a feature you can switch off. I hope this helps? Best wishes for your future EV ☺️
@@stuart_thomas Thanks for the reply! Is there a threshold you can set to tell it to ignore being at the speed limit or being 1-5mph over? In my Leon PHEV you can set a threshold like this as it acts in much the same way, will give you and audible and visual warning you've gone past the posted speed limit, which it still sometimes gets wrong if it cant see a sign properly, or the GPS has the wrong speed limit in its database.
Hi, can you have the cabin preheated and also the battery in the morning during the winter directly from application or do you need to get inside the car for that? Thanks
We have temps in Scotland currently at -5/-6 for the past few days Since we last charged and we’ve only managed about 2.7m/kWh if we are lucky. However we are blasting the AC
The lowest we’ve seen is about 2.2m/kWh but that is doing a school run approx 2/3 miles. We’ve decided to knock off the A/C and see if this gives it a boost!
The remaining miles never seem to match up to the battery percentage based on current/average miles per kwh, you'd think it would alter as the miles per kwh do
I drove an hour & 10 minutes to Newcastle Airport this morning in my Trophy Long Range. Left on 80% with 194 miles on the gom. Arrived on 48%, it was -3°C there. The journey back, we arrived on 12% having only driven 112 miles 😬 The cold really kicks the battery’s arse! Only picked my Trophy up on Friday (9th). Surprised how little range I got. 😢
Hi Clive did you pre-condition prior to leaving? Just getting the battery warmer before a long journey before setting off with help in those temperatures. The HVAC will scavenge the heat from the battery pack for your cabin thus making it harder for the car to be as efficient. Congrats on your Trophy 👍
Did you have the AC on? What temperature and setting? Was it raining? Dry or wet roads? Windy or not? All this needs to be factored in when you test the efficiency. 194 Wh/km is seems to be too good vs what I've seen on 2 test drives I did at 6-8C and mostly rainy, AC on, mixed driving 10 to 14 km drives.
@@stuart_thomas I did and I've seen the AC was set to 22 C and fan to 1, which is a bare minimum really for 0 C and wet weather. The most miserable weather there can be. Was the cabin warm with this setting? If not, it's not a representative winter test. During both my test drives at 6C and wet weather, I felt really cold at times, a cold draught was venting off inexplicably, I could feel a warm air actually coming out of the vents only by setting the temperature above 23 C. Comparing it with the BMW i3, setting to 20 C and fan 2 (out of 5) generates a genuinely warm air coming out of the vents and is sufficient for me in the winter. Long story short, the MG4 feels "colder" (temperature sensor off?) plus has these annoying periods of cold draughts even at higher temperature AC settings.
Another real world test Stu. I was wondering why you preheated the battery when you weren't intending to DC charge. Does it make the car more efficient? BTW you don't need the "p" in your on-screen miles p/kWh 😉
Thanks for tuning in Stephen. Pre-conditioning I would do on a longer road trip or if the car is stone cold. I was able to preheat the cabin and wasn’t too concerned. You have to weigh up kWh used to preheat vs use case for journey. I’ve heard some people say over a kW to do this. Thanks for the P ref 😊
Hi there Thanks for sharing this information My mrs and my use MG 4 trophy long range. We got the car late week Thursday We have been charging the car every day as car uses lot on energy. We charge the car using the public charging point( we don’t have home charging. It look like it will not be possible to have one). Each weekday we drive about 90-96 miles Is there settings on the car that we have to change to reduce the energy consumption Any advice will help
Congrats on your new MG4 Kelvin. It’s just that time of year unfortunately - In terms of energy saving, just a couple of things really. Make sure your battery heater is switched off in the battery menu. It’s great for heating the battery prior to DC charging but it will eat energy. You can also gain efficiency by using the energy saving modes in the car menu. Other than that, try to avoid heavy braking, it’s just the time of year where EVs struggle with cold climates.
@@stuart_thomas thanks stuart for the answer, very helpful. if you don't mind i have couple of other questions: -how do we turn off the adaptive cruise control? -how many minutes should the intelligent battery heating be turn on before DC charging? -our car does dc charging up 97% it never goes to 100%, are we doing something wrong? -we drive over 100 miles(mondays to fridays), it is advisable to do DC charging above 80%
@@Mr_Shote hi Kelvin - adaptive cruise should be by default off and will only come on if you hit the ‘steering wheel’ icon on the steering wheel controls. You just hit it a second time to deactivate. Intelligent battery heating should only be used if it’s super cold and you’re looking to do a long DC charge. Intelligent battery heating uses a lot of energy so it’s not worth it for small amounts of charging. If you do use it try to switch on 1 hour to -30 mins before charging. The sooner the better. You have the trophy model which uses a nickel based lithium battery so it’s advised for battery health not to regularly go beyond 80% battery but fine for trips, however if you’re physically unable to charge to 100% battery this would suggest an imbalance in the cars BMS. What % do you normally go down to before charging on most days? I would suggest charging to as close to 100% than depleting as much battery, as low as 5-10% and then charge up again. That should sort it out. I hope this helps
@@stuart_thomas thanks Stuart, thanks for the information. we charge the car up 97%, that is the max the car will allow us, after 97% the charging rate decreases to 1kwh -3.7 kwh. we normally recharge the car when the battery is at low between 10% - 25%
@@Mr_Shote top end of the battery always takes the longest to charge as it’s done in a slow controlled fashion to protect the battery, so charging in the the very low kW’s is totally normal
Besides the range difference that’s some drop down from an etron to MG4. That is poor range all the same, it’s a lovely car otherwise and charges really well.
Hi Mike, what figures are you basing 13ppm on? I currently charge at 12p per kW at home. That’s 4ppm and I don’t need to visit a petrol station. 9ppm isn’t bad at all. My take on hybrid cars is they’re better than regular ice cars but, it’s also more costly things to go wrong which isn’t significant in the first few years under warranty but after that I’m not sure I’d want to own one…
Please don't sit in lane 3 at 70 with cruise control on. If you move out into lane 3, get to 80, overtake the vehicles in lane 2 and move back in as soon as possible.
Thanks for tuning in Chris and commenting. Please don’t worry, I didn’t spend the whole time in lane 3, I’m normally the one controlling my blood pressure at others doing this or hugging the centre lane. Unfortunately, you see snippets of this journey and I make the assumption that people will understand that I’m performing a test and i Use all 3 lanes to maintain 70mph. You may have noticed I’m also recording my speeds on camera and presenting it to the world, not just for the test, but it would be incredibly irresponsible to drive at 80 in any lane. I’m not prepared to hand over money and gain points.
considering 90% of the people with cars dont drive more then 45miles/day, and only drive 200+ miles or more for special occasions, most people should be fine with any of the 50KWh+ cars on the market ( except Toyota BZ4X cos apparently that has some really bad range issues in cold weather)
I think if I was cruising at the speed limit and the car was constantly flashing the speed limit sign at me, I would probably have ripped the dashboard out.
@@stuart_thomas thank you for taking your time to reply, i had figured this out by the end with your total kwh used but i appreciate it and thats a relief. I just saw your range at the beginning and was a little worried we had chose the wrong car but now i see we should easily get over 200 miles out of the trophy
@@martiangod lols, you’ll be alright. Having said that I’m not far away from WLTP summer range at the moment. I really expect to see both the SR and LR models exceed WLTP in the warmer weather
Hi thanks for tuning in and the question. Are you asking how to or when to? Best time to use is prior to a trip to preheat the car and condition the battery for better efficiency (a warmer battery is a more efficient one) or prior to DC charging. Probs wouldn’t be worth it for short journeys as it does use energy to preheat.
@@stuart_thomas hi yes the question was when should I use the battery heating schedule is set to 1 hour before I drive the car each day but i am not sure if I am supposed to be doing that or just turning a/c on 10 minutes before I go thanks for your reply your videos have been really helpful
@@SamuraiTheDJ hi - it depends how long your journey is and outdoor temperatures. Anything close to freezing and a longer journey than 10 miles I wouldn’t bother with intelligent battery heating as it uses energy to heat it. Just preheat Cabin instead. If you charge over night and the charging finishes less than 30 mins before departure then your battery should be warmer anyway. Hope that helps
@@CastleKnight7 you end up paying £32k if you PCP then if you have to finance the settlement figure you could be paying £36k for a £26k car ! The cheapest way would be to sell the Ampera on WBAC or motorway then take a bank loan out over 5 years for the rest.
Plenty of people enjoying their MG4s. All new cars have teething problems, but SAIC are pinning their European hopes on this new platform, so will do everything they can to make it a success.
I got the MG4 Trophy and drive is really comfy. Feels very safe inside and range you looking at freezing whether condition is around 220-230 which is not bad. Drove to Blackpool today from Stoke with 5 people inside. 27degrees inside fan is 3-6 without any issues. Trip was about 160 miles and when we arrive home nearly 30 miles left. There is rattling sound inside and I think it’s the glove box. Gonna find out and sort out later My wife and I really enjoying the driving now. We spend 1K on our home charger. And charging isn’t issue for me. Vehicle has 90% pros and about 10% cons in my opinion. Software updates can resolve so m many issues tbf.
@Somindra Kannangara somebody else had that problem and it was the heating vents under the glove box plastic rattling against plastic he used duct tape to cure the issue RUclips video available
@@relaxedsleepy8687 driver alert doesn't work software issues ,oil leak at rear,under the car plastic is bulging, seat padding poor quality driver lane assist is dangerous and hub caps damaging alloy wheels are the common ones . Has been a vibration due to poor tyres and balancing at the factory. See the mg forum
Its not cost, it's because Tesla's STILL use cobalt in their batteries. Tesla said they would stop using cobalt years ago but haven't. It is both toxic and child labour intensive and should be banned in ev batteries.
Just found your great channel I have just brought my first ev it's a kia Niro
64khw love ❤️ it.
Thanks for tuning in Richard. What a great car the Niro is. Is it the previous version E-Niro or the new Niro-EV?
I’m due to range test one soon so make sure you keep the notifications on 👍
Always interested in other people's / car's efficiencies compared with my Enyaq 80 Sportline. In the 5 months I've had it, the overall consumption is 4.1 miles/kwH. Started higher but has dropped with the colder temperatures. Did a very similar trip to this video last week with 3.3 miles/kwH outward & 3.4 on the return. Really like the look of the MG4.
That’s a fantastic car you have - a bit out of our budget but was on the list. That’s some great efficiencies for the temperatures considering the size and weight of the vehicle. Thanks for tuning in😊
I'm getting more and more fond of my Ioniq that does 4.3 miles/kwh in subzero winter temperatures and 6 miles/kwh in the summer!
Super efficient car
@@stuart_thomasbut twice the price tho
@@Hmmhmmhej not if it is the original saloon. Now £10k used. Small battery though.
For the record drove my Tesla M3 RWD LFP, on a similar 40 mile mixed journey last Saturday, when the temperature was at -4 to -5 deg. Managed 'only' 3.6m/kwh. During our hot summer we were averaging 5.3m/kwh. Anyway your MG is looking pretty impressive!
That's some impressive figures, I wish mine was that efficient but mine's over 2 years older and the standard plus is incredibly efficient.
I'm hoping we'll see high figures for MG4 in the summer
5.3 m/kwh in summer with aircon on ? Was that on 30 mph roads or motorway ?
@@RB-lt8kt That's my average efficiency over 5100miles since March this year. A/C was always on during the hot summer. However, it doesn't seem to affect effiency that much.
Yes, I'm not a fast driver trying to keep below 70 on motorways. I'm sure the one-pedal driving regen is where the savings are made. You just learn how to drive so as not to waste energy.
As we head into the colder winter no doubt efficiency will seriously drop. I will post figures when we get to March next year.
@@stuart_thomas No hope. Because the MG4 doesn't have a heat pump. That makes a part of the difference. The second part is the drive train efficiency.
Again a REAL test explained really well from start to finish, excellent. So much better than some on You Tube who happen to also sell EV cars and don't give all the information such as they drive at 60 mph on motorway etc.
I know that part of the M5 you were on very well as always use Tewkesbury exit to go towards Evesham / Coventry missing out the M42 when travelling to midlands or beyond for work.
Thanks for tuning in and the great comments. It almost seems pointless unless you extract some data out of it. It’s important if you want people to join you on the ride to see and experience it as you do. Yes, Tewkesbury indeed. It’s a rubbish bit of motorway there, always congested if you hit it at the wrong time 👍
@@stuart_thomas Totally agree. My Cupra doing 2.5 miles per kwh on 2 mile short trips with aircon on at 0 degrees Celsius outside.
Thanks, enjoyable and informative, not too shabby from the MG (btw kW = power, kWh = energy)
Interesting one as I totally agree but the car suggests energy but calls it power 🤷♂️
thx for including kWh/100km
Very good, if it's only 10% off the Tesla on the motorway.
A great video Stuart,it just goes to show how good the MG4 is.I haven't had a chance to do this kind of test yet in my MG4 Trophy.keep the videos coming ,I'm enjoying them.Im also looking forward to Tesla Byjorn Nyland doing an in depth test on the MG4,although in one of his videos he mentioned about the MG4s interior being shity but that I don't agree with.Any way take care and stay safe.
Thanks Graham. Sorry I haven’t acknowledged your comment, it winded up in the spam probs for Bjorn’s comment. It’s a great car indeed. Many including Bjorn may not be impressed about some things, but it’s subjective and for the 💰it shouldn’t be overlooked
@@stuart_thomas Hi Stuart I don't expect you to reply as I think you are probably a busy family man going back and forth to work etc and trying to get your video editing done.Yes the MG4 is a very good car for the 💰.I think what it is with Byjorn is that he is always testing high end cars and gets used to the luxury's and the build quality.saying that I know he thinks nothing else compares with the Tesla but to be honest I've seen some shoddy build quality issues with some Tesla's,how's yours holding up by the way.I was concidering a Tesla Myself but the prices just seem going up even though I can afford to buy one I don't believe in throwing my money away on a whim just to own one.Im more of a middle of the road man who likes a good value for money car that ticks all the boxes,and besides I'm loath To be paying an extra £300 Plus luxury tax on top of the normal road tax for the next five or so years.Any way Stuart it's nice to have a chat without being Trolled on the face book forum's.Take care and stay safe,even more so in these weather conditions.
Hi Graham - sorry i haven't replied, I try to reply to most people who take time to ask a sensible question or just want to chat MG4/EVS. For whatever reason, your message went in my spam.
I do check it as it has a habit of organising sensible messages with rubbish for some reason.
Thanks for the positive feedback! RE: Bjorn. I love Bjorn's videos, there's a level of understanding in his content which isn't for everyone and I'd be the first to say that sometimes what he does despite his professionalism isn't necessarily a true representation of consumer use, but I like the guy and what he does and yes, you're right he does spend a lot of time in higher-end cars but he has had some wonderful feedback on MG ZS EV which I think he got spot on.
Still have the Tesla M3 LR, I love it, it's a fantastic car and nearly 3 years on i still get excited driving it. Until you've driven one and compared it to other ICE and EVs you can understand the attention whether for better or worse. Their vertical integration is fantastic and yes, i did have a lot of issues with it when it arrived, most were QC-related and these should have been dealt with prior to delivery (that's what the consumer expects) and many of these issues were from the Fremont factory in CA and these were fixed, but it seems this is the new model most manufacturers have adopted now, build now, fix later which is fine if the consumer understands the expectation and as long as the issues are resolved which mine were it's not a big drama even with a bigger price tag. Is it worth double the price of an MG4, it's subjective and I don't. But when we got ours, it was nearly 10k less than it is now which i think is correct.
I think this is why I'm personally very chilled out about 'MG4 issues' and I think there are more people rating the MG4 than complaining about it and if you speak with most from my experience on my channel and some social circles, their issues have been resolved and they're extremely happy. Most other bits are software, not hardware related which will be resolved in time, my Tesla has 2 updates a month so it's really nothing. I know there are many out there to who this is their first experience with EVs and this is a protocol they're just not used to. It's a learning curve for sure.
Thanks again for tuning in and supporting my channel.
@@stuart_thomas do you regret not getting long version of mg4 or normal range is fine ?
@@techgeek2994 not at all. I think two hours driving range is more than enough without a break. A winning factor is LFP chemistry battery. It’s nice that I can charge to 100% everyday and I have a full battery. I charge from home so my cheap tariff will nearly cover a full charge in one night.
Good vid as usual, as you say the teslas is 30 grand dearer, I doubt if you could use that amount of extra electricity in the mg4 in quite a number of lifetimes. 🤣
You could by two MG4’s 😂
Internal ambient lights + panoramic sunroof + electric opening rear trunk and it would be A Perfect car
Now they would be great additions👍
@@stuart_thomas I cancelled my order for EV Peugeot 2008 GT premium which had all that plus self parking yesterday and placed an order for MG4 Trophy and I am sure I’ll miss all those extras. Had EV Peugeot 2008 GT delivered in March last year but sadly was stolen in September last year with only 2000 miles.
The best test drive you can actually do, is to drive at 70 mph & see how far it will go!
Yes completely agree 👍
I would really like to see how well would do the MG-4 e.v. going at speeds close to 75-80mph.
I ordered my MG4 Trophy yesterday and cancelled the order I had for electric 2008 GT Premium. Hope I won’t regret. 🤞
It’s a great car as is the 2008 but I’m sure you’ll be happy
Really great information on real life driving I think the mg4 or Nissan Leaf 2nd gen will be my first EV both would be used so videos like this will help
Glad it helped you Anthony 😊
Thanks for continuing your ownership experience of the MG4. It seems to me that the real ‘range monsters’ outside of Tesla are front wheel drive cars like the Hyundai Ioniq (the original one), Kona and the Kia e-Niro (my ride since March 2019). Data suggests that 80% of braking is done by the front brakes...probably why we end up changing the front pads and discs before the rears...irrespective the car being front/rear drive...I’m talking about 40 plus years of driving ICE vehicles here. Coming off the accelerator or applying the brakes in an EV turns the motor into a generator, slowing the car down at a rate determined by the re-gen setting...and in a front drive car this seems to result in more re-gen and I guess better miles/kWh. Over 73,000 km the winter/summer average on the e-Niro is 4.3 miles/kWh....Rear drive cars of similar size and weight (ID3, Cupra, MG4) but better cd rating (the Niro is a bit of a brick)...don’t seem to do any better. It will be interesting to see how the front/rear drive argument pans out as more ‘ground up’ EVs like the MG4 come onto the market. The newer Hyundai/Kia/Genesis are all RWD based on the EGMP platform, as are the VW Group MEB cars....whereas the Renault/Nissan CMF are predominately FWD.
Thanks for tuning in and another great comment. I think you’re totally right. Also, FWD uses less traction at speed hence the better efficiency. I wonder if the consumer had the choice they’d prefer greater tyre/disc wear and better efficiency over the alternative?
@@stuart_thomas It will be interesting to see how things evolve over the coming years. RWD appeals to me for the obvious driving pleasure reasons but also because the drive train is behind you..which should make it even quieter..I don’t know having never driven a RWD EV..The e-Niro is still to me a very quiet car. Perhaps a way forward would be to have an ultra-capacitor to capture the kinetic energy from the front wheel breaking and somehow make that energy available to the read drive. No doubt some clever folks are already working on that. 🙂
You probably know the SR model has an LFP battery which performs less well at 0 C and below than the NMC one. It's the main disadvantage of LFP, but the many advantages outweigh that. By coincidence I did my first longish trip this morning and checked its consumption. First leg of 29 mls averaged 2.9ml/kWhr, the return leg was 3.3mls/kWhr. The temp on outward journey was -4C to -3C, and on the return was about 1C. the route on the A38 dual carriageway was very hilly and twisty and I was only going at 60-65 mph due to snow and sleet showers. For LFP I was delighted.
Hey James, really interesting stuff. I take it the Long Range version uses NMC in that case?
That’s great news James. That’s some good figures and I’m hoping with some software updates that can be slightly improved. It won’t be as efficient as the NMC pack but like you said it has a lot of pros. It’s amazing how much more efficient the car can be just be dropping 5mph.
@@lockie3969 that’s correct i
That was a coincidence seeing the car transporter carrying MGs on it! Could it be mine?!😅Another great real world test. Thank you Stuart.
He was certainly jam packed, shame he’s only delivering the one to someone but I guess that’s better than nothing. Hopefully yours won’t be too long away.
Thanks again for tuning in and the positive comments 😊
@@stuart_thomas Yes, one lucky new MG4 owner will be getting the call from their dealer soon.
I see your favourite heater setting is 22C and fan on 1, do you have the Air Recirculation Mode set to Recirculate, Fresh or Automatic Circulation with that low fan speed in this cold damp weather? Auto Circ for me seems to keep the heat better but occasionally suffers cold draughts but stops the misting whilst full recirculate suffers misting, not sure I've discovered the optimum as yet. Also are you A/C on or off?? Great videos, keep it up.
I think I have it on fresh but not 100% sure to be honest. Thanks for tuning in and great comment 😊
Just saying that the comparison was closer than you reported, as you accidentally put the MG4's outward journey stats up for the return journey. 2.9 m/kwh instead of 3.1 m/kwh. Which is significantly closer to the Tesla's 3.17 m/kw. Yes, it was colder for the Tesla though.
I have a 40 kw Leaf and Zoe. Its been averaging - 3⁰ C in Ireland this past week and both cars are using on average 30% more juice.
Hi Steven, yes, that sounds about accurate. Mine is about 25%. Thanks tuning in and commenting
My experience with -5 to -10 degrees in Southern Bavaria is: 21 - 25 kWh/100 km with longer trips and 30-35 kWh/100 km with short trips and cooling down the car if you don't have a closed garage which is extremely helpful. The display does not show average values higher than 29,8 kWh/100 km and it takes 10-15 minutes until the value drops lower than 29,8. At a 50 km trip, 1/3 of the total amount of energy is for warming up and heating the inner space which is necessary to have a clear view. I have got the SE Long Range version (mid variant). Yesterday, I made a trip with extreme weather conditions. 280 km with partial snowfall and temperature -8 degrees. Energy amount was 21 kWh/100 km, although one half of the trip was an empty motorway (120-150 km/h). After finishing the trip, the front disappeared under a 2 cm layer of ice. Today, the weather turned to a sunny, but still very cold day, and I turned the front into the noon sun to remove the ice layer. Because an electric car does not generate heat, snow and ice gets a serious problem. Anyway, the trip worked fine although the ventilation grille was under the ice layer. I had problems with the front and side view/ventilation, but now I realized that I have to turn the ventilation mode from inner circulating air to outside air. There seems to be a bug: I can only choose between front glass ventilation or inner space ventilation (which is necessary for side view), but both would be necessary. The piloting functionality was offline, of course: The sensors and cameras were also under the ice layer.
Hi Martin thanks for your take on your experience with your long range SE. Some really interesting figures there. I have been predicting for around - zero degrees Celsius temperatures anything from 35-25% reduction so you’re experiencing the 33ish% which is quite considerable but understandable for sub-zero conditions. Yours does have a different battery chemistry but naturally struggle at freezing temperatures until the pack is warm. Thanks for this
@@stuart_thomas I have heared that the SE Standard with its LFP battery is less winter-suitable. This point and the fact that only the Long Range and the Trophy version have got 11 kW AC loaders (in Germany, we have 3 phase wires, but each phase only with 16 A, so a SE Standard can only be loaded with 3,5 instead of 7 kW) was the reason for my choice. German RUclipsrs reported that they were enabled to load with 100 kW with a cold battery with the LiIon variant.
@@martinv.352 at least it made choosing the model easier😂. Easy decision if you’re restricted to 3.5kw on the SE std. 👍
Hey stu please could you do a video on lane keeping assist and why it is not reliable.Thanks
Hi Stuart, love the content. When you say the car is "using 30%" when going up an incline and "11%" going down the other side... do you mean "30kw" and "11kw" ?
We've just bought a BYD Atto 3 in Perth Australia and you've motivated us to start a regular 102km round journey around the Mandurah Inlet to compare a standard speed limit test with hypermiling the same journey. Of course, our average temperatures are more in the 20-30°C at 4pm (not the 1-5°C you have... thank goodness).
We'll keep watching your progress with the MG4 with interest.
Stephen and Charles.
Hi guys thanks for tuning in and the great question.
Wow, your adventures sound fantastic (not jealous). I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Atto. How are you getting on with it?
Mg use % value to represent how much the vehicle is using in terms of max power available. Unfortunately It’s not a true kw value representation but it’s a good consumer tool to get to grips with finding the sweet spot of where your throttle is most efficient to achieve certain speeds. A bit like a rev counter but RPM has been changed to %. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for tuning again and i look forward to coming along for the ride on your adventures.
Your comment about the screen demist being a button for direct access highlights a drawback in the 4 - to change the drive mode you DO have to dig into a menu. That’s a negative for me.
Thanks for tuning in and commenting. It’s a fair opinion. Luckily, it’s software based so I hope in the future with OS iterations it can become a quick function from the screen or steering wheel
Thank you for a great test. Is there any major difference in the technology? How about heat pump? Is there in both cars - or just on Tesla?
Thanks for tuning in - Tesla’s are generally just more efficient. Better Co-drag rating, lighter in terms of components and more sophisticated drive train and battery pack. Heat pump definitely helps especially for heating the vehicle from cold. You have to remember the Model3 LR weighs more or less the same as the MG4 but it’s carrying a 70kWh pack and two motors and is a bigger car. But that’s was £30k gets you😊 MG4 is good though and it’s in early stages of software. Modern iterations should help the vehicle. To put into context I tested an id.3 today which has a bigger battery than the MG4 SE std and had similar efficiencies and has a NCM battery (not LFP)
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks, I really enjoyed this one!
Thank you and thanks for tuning in
Good video Stuart..
I have one of these on order (same version as yours) the car will be used for city driving (10 mile round trip daily) and the odd run to parents (40 mile round trip). Surely this version is adequate? Impressed with price compared to other EV that I get through work scheme. Charger installed free of charge at home as well.
Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Congrats on your order. That sounds amazing and ideal for your situation 😊
Hi Andy.....how did you get a free charger if you don't mind me asking ☺️... seriously thinking about an MG4
@@davegillespie3948 hi, it’s all part of the motor package I get with with work.
@@andywomble1791 Aaah right....nice one
I'm considering ordering one of these in the next few weeks, everything looks great on them and this test is a fantastic review as its nearly the same type of journey i'd do a lot!
one question is why is the traffic speed sign flashing constantly on the drivers display? is it because you are over the speed limit? it seems to be very distracting!
Thanks for tuning in and the question. It's an option in the driving set-up for the car to acknowledge road speed signs. As I'm at 70 it's warning me as I'm at the limit. Drop 1 mph below it and it disappears.
This is a feature you can switch off.
I hope this helps?
Best wishes for your future EV ☺️
@@stuart_thomas Thanks for the reply! Is there a threshold you can set to tell it to ignore being at the speed limit or being 1-5mph over? In my Leon PHEV you can set a threshold like this as it acts in much the same way, will give you and audible and visual warning you've gone past the posted speed limit, which it still sometimes gets wrong if it cant see a sign properly, or the GPS has the wrong speed limit in its database.
@@bridub I’m sure there is I just haven’t looked yet 😊
Hi, can you have the cabin preheated and also the battery in the morning during the winter directly from application or do you need to get inside the car for that? Thanks
We have temps in Scotland currently at -5/-6 for the past few days Since we last charged and we’ve only managed about 2.7m/kWh if we are lucky. However we are blasting the AC
That's some decent figures all considering. I squeezed out 2.9 m/kWh at 60-65mph on the motorway today at 0 degrees.
The lowest we’ve seen is about 2.2m/kWh but that is doing a school run approx 2/3 miles. We’ve decided to knock off the A/C and see if this gives it a boost!
The remaining miles never seem to match up to the battery percentage based on current/average miles per kwh, you'd think it would alter as the miles per kwh do
I drove an hour & 10 minutes to Newcastle Airport this morning in my Trophy Long Range. Left on 80% with 194 miles on the gom. Arrived on 48%, it was -3°C there. The journey back, we arrived on 12% having only driven 112 miles 😬 The cold really kicks the battery’s arse! Only picked my Trophy up on Friday (9th). Surprised how little range I got. 😢
I suppose you could eek out the power by setting it to eco mode with strong regen and reducing the cabin temperature.
@@CastleKnight7 That was on Eco with full regen 😳😬
@@cloggsy1971 Not sure then. If you’re not already a member, I recommend joining the MGEV forum (MG4 sub forum) for advice on getting the most range.
@@CastleKnight7 Yeah, already on there 👌🏻👍🏻
Hi Clive did you pre-condition prior to leaving? Just getting the battery warmer before a long journey before setting off with help in those temperatures. The HVAC will scavenge the heat from the battery pack for your cabin thus making it harder for the car to be as efficient. Congrats on your Trophy 👍
Did you have the AC on? What temperature and setting?
Was it raining? Dry or wet roads? Windy or not?
All this needs to be factored in when you test the efficiency.
194 Wh/km is seems to be too good vs what I've seen on 2 test drives I did at 6-8C and mostly rainy, AC on, mixed driving 10 to 14 km drives.
Thanks for the comments. I have to ask based on the questions, did you watch it from start to finish?
@@stuart_thomas I did and I've seen the AC was set to 22 C and fan to 1, which is a bare minimum really for 0 C and wet weather. The most miserable weather there can be. Was the cabin warm with this setting? If not, it's not a representative winter test.
During both my test drives at 6C and wet weather, I felt really cold at times, a cold draught was venting off inexplicably, I could feel a warm air actually coming out of the vents only by setting the temperature above 23 C.
Comparing it with the BMW i3, setting to 20 C and fan 2 (out of 5) generates a genuinely warm air coming out of the vents and is sufficient for me in the winter. Long story short, the MG4 feels "colder" (temperature sensor off?) plus has these annoying periods of cold draughts even at higher temperature AC settings.
you have to put in eco mode, and to put high one pedal in the city
Another real world test Stu. I was wondering why you preheated the battery when you weren't intending to DC charge. Does it make the car more efficient? BTW you don't need the "p" in your on-screen miles p/kWh 😉
Thanks for tuning in Stephen. Pre-conditioning I would do on a longer road trip or if the car is stone cold. I was able to preheat the cabin and wasn’t too concerned. You have to weigh up kWh used to preheat vs use case for journey. I’ve heard some people say over a kW to do this. Thanks for the P ref 😊
Just out of interest, does that national speed limit logo, on your driver display, always appear and flash on and off? Can you cancel the flashing?
You can switch this off but it seems to reset each time you get into the car
Hi there
Thanks for sharing this information
My mrs and my use MG 4 trophy long range. We got the car late week Thursday
We have been charging the car every day as car uses lot on energy.
We charge the car using the public charging point( we don’t have home charging. It look like it will not be possible to have one).
Each weekday we drive about 90-96 miles
Is there settings on the car that we have to change to reduce the energy consumption
Any advice will help
Congrats on your new MG4 Kelvin. It’s just that time of year unfortunately - In terms of energy saving, just a couple of things really. Make sure your battery heater is switched off in the battery menu. It’s great for heating the battery prior to DC charging but it will eat energy. You can also gain efficiency by using the energy saving modes in the car menu. Other than that, try to avoid heavy braking, it’s just the time of year where EVs struggle with cold climates.
@@stuart_thomas thanks stuart for the answer, very helpful.
if you don't mind i have couple of other questions:
-how do we turn off the adaptive cruise control?
-how many minutes should the intelligent battery heating be turn on before DC charging?
-our car does dc charging up 97% it never goes to 100%, are we doing something wrong?
-we drive over 100 miles(mondays to fridays), it is advisable to do DC charging above 80%
@@Mr_Shote hi Kelvin - adaptive cruise should be by default off and will only come on if you hit the ‘steering wheel’ icon on the steering wheel controls. You just hit it a second time to deactivate.
Intelligent battery heating should only be used if it’s super cold and you’re looking to do a long DC charge. Intelligent battery heating uses a lot of energy so it’s not worth it for small amounts of charging. If you do use it try to switch on 1 hour to -30 mins before charging. The sooner the better.
You have the trophy model which uses a nickel based lithium battery so it’s advised for battery health not to regularly go beyond 80% battery but fine for trips, however if you’re physically unable to charge to 100% battery this would suggest an imbalance in the cars BMS. What % do you normally go down to before charging on most days? I would suggest charging to as close to 100% than depleting as much battery, as low as 5-10% and then charge up again. That should sort it out.
I hope this helps
@@stuart_thomas thanks Stuart, thanks for the information. we charge the car up 97%, that is the max the car will allow us, after 97% the charging rate decreases to 1kwh -3.7 kwh. we normally recharge the car when the battery is at low between 10% - 25%
@@Mr_Shote top end of the battery always takes the longest to charge as it’s done in a slow controlled fashion to protect the battery, so charging in the the very low kW’s is totally normal
Changing my etron 50 for an MG4...the etron is shocking in cold weather and even on full charge car estimates 128 miles range at the moment🥺
Besides the range difference that’s some drop down from an etron to MG4. That is poor range all the same, it’s a lovely car otherwise and charges really well.
@@stuart_thomas it's a drop yes but Trophy model actually has more standard kit than etron and build quality looks fine.
An impatient BMW driver?!? Na! Can't imagine that. 😉🤣🤣🤣
😂
Good video. Thanks
Merci pour cette vidéo
Wow that's 13ppm my petrol hybrid cost 9ppm. So whats the point? Even more expensive at service station
Hi Mike, what figures are you basing 13ppm on? I currently charge at 12p per kW at home. That’s 4ppm and I don’t need to visit a petrol station.
9ppm isn’t bad at all. My take on hybrid cars is they’re better than regular ice cars but, it’s also more costly things to go wrong which isn’t significant in the first few years under warranty but after that I’m not sure I’d want to own one…
i dont know about US costumers, but in Europe this kind of cars/range is considered a good option.
Please don't sit in lane 3 at 70 with cruise control on. If you move out into lane 3, get to 80, overtake the vehicles in lane 2 and move back in as soon as possible.
Thanks for tuning in Chris and commenting. Please don’t worry, I didn’t spend the whole time in lane 3, I’m normally the one controlling my blood pressure at others doing this or hugging the centre lane. Unfortunately, you see snippets of this journey and I make the assumption that people will understand that I’m performing a test and i
Use all 3 lanes to maintain 70mph. You may have noticed I’m also recording my speeds on camera and presenting it to the world, not just for the test, but it would be incredibly irresponsible to drive at 80 in any lane. I’m not prepared to hand over money and gain points.
Is it not 450km range?
considering 90% of the people with cars dont drive more then 45miles/day, and only drive 200+ miles or more for special occasions, most people should be fine with any of the 50KWh+ cars on the market ( except Toyota BZ4X cos apparently that has some really bad range issues in cold weather)
This one or Peugeot e-2008??
I’ve only had the pleasure of driving an e208 and between those I’d pick an MG4
what tyres in on that car..
I think if I was cruising at the speed limit and the car was constantly flashing the speed limit sign at me, I would probably have ripped the dashboard out.
Ha ha! You can turn it off 😂
Is this a long range model ?
Hi mark, this is the standard range model
@@stuart_thomas thank you for taking your time to reply, i had figured this out by the end with your total kwh used but i appreciate it and thats a relief.
I just saw your range at the beginning and was a little worried we had chose the wrong car but now i see we should easily get over 200 miles out of the trophy
@@martiangod lols, you’ll be alright. Having said that I’m not far away from WLTP summer range at the moment. I really expect to see both the SR and LR models exceed WLTP in the warmer weather
Do you work at Seamap in shepton mallet?
Never been sorry or work there 😂
If you are here for wha the title says, you can really skip the first 22 minutes. It is mostly driving with occasional commentary.
You can drive in lane one
It’s a lovely lane, I do like over taking though too much!
Can anyone tell me when I need to use battery heating in the iSMART app for mg4 se sr
Hi thanks for tuning in and the question. Are you asking how to or when to?
Best time to use is prior to a trip to preheat the car and condition the battery for better efficiency (a warmer battery is a more efficient one) or prior to DC charging. Probs wouldn’t be worth it for short journeys as it does use energy to preheat.
@@stuart_thomas hi yes the question was when should I use the battery heating schedule is set to 1 hour before I drive the car each day but i am not sure if I am supposed to be doing that or just turning a/c on 10 minutes before I go thanks for your reply your videos have been really helpful
@@SamuraiTheDJ hi - it depends how long your journey is and outdoor temperatures.
Anything close to freezing and a longer journey than 10 miles I wouldn’t bother with intelligent battery heating as it uses energy to heat it. Just preheat Cabin instead. If you charge over night and the charging finishes less than 30 mins before departure then your battery should be warmer anyway.
Hope that helps
@@stuart_thomas thanks appreciated 👍
Nice ev if I had £26k to spare I'd have one, but for now I will have to stick with my Ampera.
How about pcp with a modest deposit?
@@CastleKnight7 you end up paying £32k if you PCP then if you have to finance the settlement figure you could be paying £36k for a £26k car ! The cheapest way would be to sell the Ampera on WBAC or motorway then take a bank loan out over 5 years for the rest.
Ordered my trophy on 7th Nov but having second thoughts due to faults, seat quality and build quality on RUclips and mg forums any help info
Plenty of people enjoying their MG4s. All new cars have teething problems, but SAIC are pinning their European hopes on this new platform, so will do everything they can to make it a success.
Hey can you please specify the faults you are talking about? I am looking to buy one right now and i am really trying to find faults but fail....
I got the MG4 Trophy and drive is really comfy. Feels very safe inside and range you looking at freezing whether condition is around 220-230 which is not bad.
Drove to Blackpool today from Stoke with 5 people inside. 27degrees inside fan is 3-6 without any issues.
Trip was about 160 miles and when we arrive home nearly 30 miles left.
There is rattling sound inside and I think it’s the glove box. Gonna find out and sort out later
My wife and I really enjoying the driving now.
We spend 1K on our home charger. And charging isn’t issue for me.
Vehicle has 90% pros and about 10% cons in my opinion. Software updates can resolve so m many issues tbf.
@Somindra Kannangara somebody else had that problem and it was the heating vents under the glove box plastic rattling against plastic he used duct tape to cure the issue RUclips video available
@@relaxedsleepy8687 driver alert doesn't work software issues ,oil leak at rear,under the car plastic is bulging, seat padding poor quality driver lane assist is dangerous and hub caps damaging alloy wheels are the common ones .
Has been a vibration due to poor tyres and balancing at the factory. See the mg forum
Was great till it became apparent you're one of those middle lane hoggers :)
I try not too but I have to retain 70mph 😊
Its not cost, it's because Tesla's STILL use cobalt in their batteries. Tesla said they would stop using cobalt years ago but haven't. It is both toxic and child labour intensive and should be banned in ev batteries.
If the fog was “dense” you would not be moving at 70. Mist is what you had.
Nice testing. Check out teslabjorn for really COLD climate tests on all EV's (down to -20)
Thanks for the tip!