For all those that ask why Don didn't replace the stator and/or block, a judgment call was made that it's not financially worth replacing them at this point in time. Seals are cheap and easy to replace. Don had to replace the seal because it was damaged. The snowblower can still operate without a stator. All Don had to do at the end of the video is install the flywheel back on and re-gap the ignition module if needed. Then install the recoil and cover assembly and give the customer a running machine without lights and hand warmers 👍
If you wanted to replace the stator, could you attach it to the remaining post? I had the exact same thing happen to my snowblower. The top post was sheared off evenly, and the stator ended up in pieces inside the flywheel. I didn’t need the light, but was curious if I could do that.
@@nurseratchet2634 Takes 2 posts to hold the stator in place. Any shop would rather replace the crankshaft casing instead of trying to somehow JB weld the broken post back on. With welding or JB welding anything, you risk of running into the same issue with same catastrophic damage (or maybe even worse damage) than before.
@@1575murray Look carefully when he is showing you where the stator broke off. The stator was held on with two bolts that screwed into standoffs on the engine. One of the standoffs broke off flush with the engine. The other was is still there.
Another great, informative video. Your step by step explanation and showing us how you actually do the repair is very valuable. Glad you took the time to film this. Keep'm coming.
Thanks again, Doc. I am having to replace a seal on a 17.5 HP B & S on a Craftsman riding mower. I thought I had to remove the crank shaft to do that. I'm glad I don't have to. Thanks again.
Wow that's a first for me to see something like that with the flywheel and stator. Good video Don, just wish you would have shown how you were going to repair that stator. Possibly a future video idea??
I had a single cylinder B&S engine in an Ariens riding mower that the flywheel magnets came loose and jammed up the engine where it wouldn't crank. When I tried to turn it over by hand it made this awful scary grinding sound like the engine had exploded internally. But it was just the magnet chunks being ground up against the stator. It turns out all the magnets were broken. I removed the chunks of magnet and the damaged stator and re-used the flywheel. It wasn't worth spending the money for a new flywheel and stator just to charge the battery as I keep it hooked to a battery tender anyway. It's been 3 years now and the engine is still running perfectly.
@@donyboy73 put that in a milling machine machine a flat machine a plug/mount for the stater drill and tap the case drill and tap the machined plug/mount . It’s just a way to fix it . You know , if it was the last one on earth and it had to be done ! Lol
Guess that stator was more of a go-tor. 🤣 Nice tip with the drywall screw - I always underestimate those since I prefer decking screws for random construction (and drywall screws aren't much good for me since I have steel studs). They'd definitely work as a puller though!
Had a similar thing happen to my in-laws snowblower, but there’s was the starter gear didn’t retract when engine stated. Causing the starter gear to brake off, hit the coil and the coil seized the fly wheel.
Great demo. Might I suggest mentioning caution must be given to desired height of the seal. Dependent on design, it is possible to drive the seal to deep or not deep enough into the bore/recess. Further, if the crank has a wear groove caused by the old seal, when driving the new seal in, try and avoid placing the new seal edge into the groove. New Seal will seal better and last longer. Hopefully a helpful tip.
Hey Dony, if I understand right, that stator has nothing to do with generating spark. It only serves to run the light. Right? There is a separate ignition coil for spark?
Yes the post could be diy bodged with a large plate of metal and jb weld, but a new casing is the propper fix. That is a thin seal, not much material to work with. I think i would go for the tiny drill hole and the drywall screw or insert a hook/pick through the hole.
@@donyboy73 don i have a question,sorry my english is not so good. But i have a cub cadet 2180 riding mower tha is 2004 and for some reason the clutch pulley stop working... Do you have any idea? Thankyou so much for all your helpful videos....
That's unfortunate that your hardware store is not available. In the u.s. hardware stores have been considered essential retailers during the entire pandemic.
Don, have you seen issues with crank seal fit in many of the older Kohlers? I've been seeing quite a few where the replacement OE seal (especially PTO side) will press into the case at barely above finger pressure. Seems to be on the Magnum and Command 18 and 20 hp the most. Been installing them and then staking them in place.
Does using silicone sealer make replacing the seal in the future more difficult because now you have to scrape out the old silicone before using a new seal?
To easily remove the oil seal, could've used the Lisle 56750 Seal Puller, or drill a small hole through the metal part of the seal & use a self-tapping drywall screw & Vise Grips to pull the seal from the block.
I see a lot of Ariens snowblower videos where folks are using the Harbor Freight Predator motor for a engine swap. What are your thoughts on that engine
@@donyboy73 I've been using an Ariens/Tecumseh blower for 30 years with no light or hand warmers. My Ariens has a knock-our for a light mount but I didn't spring for the cost. I don't even think hand warmers were an option back when I bought it.
If I am about to put oil seal on my chainsaw crankcase, is it ok to put aviation gasket sealant (permatex80019) around the oil seal? Will it make it air tight?
Not nessesary with light and handwarmer, the Main Job to a snowblower is exsactly that blow the snow away, bretter there was not hole in the motor lock when the stator broke or connecting Rod break
@@mrparlanejxtra Interesting. So you're making assumptions based on something you have no experience with? When it's 10 below and you're trying to clear a big driveway just to get to work, it's nice to be able to feel your hands while you squeeze the blower controls and aim the shoot with each pass... Boston native, speaking from solid experience. 😉 Sure, you can go without the hand warmers, absolutely. Matter of fact, you can go without the snowblower! Real men shovel snow, right? Only softies use machines to move fluffy snow out of the way. 🤣
You can still run the motor without issues . In this case it runs a light and thats it. Can buy a rechargeable led light cheap and mount on frame. Don has a video on that
Why Do half A job ?? Sooner or later they come back and say ? I want this fix ? You broke it ?? I tell them i do the hole job or you pay me for what i did ? Or you can Take it home?? I dont want repair things that will comeback later.. .
WAIT! That seal was the easy part. How are you fixing that broken stator mount dude? You HAVE to show us. No hold outs. Come on, everyone is going to ask anyways. I personally wouldn't know, you cannot just drill through the block, well, you could but thats going to wreck things. Please show how you would fix that. Thankyou.
He mentioned that is just the stator for the light and hand warmer. Those are non essential pieces on the machine, so not fixed. If you wanted to fix that, a new engine case would be the fix. OR if you have the broken off piece, weld it back on.
@@mph5896 The broken off Stud Boss is still on the part along with the bolt. It could be welded but not worth the risk of damaging the block, plus cost of new Stator.
@@gordbaker896 Not to mention it's almost certainly an aluminum, block. Would require MIG or TIG welding and the block or stud boss (part still on stator) could be damaged resulting in more damage & more cost as you say. Also good to avoid epoxy (JBWeld, etc) as that would probably fail soon and cause the same damage - or worse.
For all those that ask why Don didn't replace the stator and/or block, a judgment call was made that it's not financially worth replacing them at this point in time. Seals are cheap and easy to replace. Don had to replace the seal because it was damaged. The snowblower can still operate without a stator. All Don had to do at the end of the video is install the flywheel back on and re-gap the ignition module if needed. Then install the recoil and cover assembly and give the customer a running machine without lights and hand warmers 👍
RIGHT ON!
Thank you for the explanation - I was wondering.
If you wanted to replace the stator, could you attach it to the remaining post? I had the exact same thing happen to my snowblower. The top post was sheared off evenly, and the stator ended up in pieces inside the flywheel. I didn’t need the light, but was curious if I could do that.
@@nurseratchet2634 Takes 2 posts to hold the stator in place. Any shop would rather replace the crankshaft casing instead of trying to somehow JB weld the broken post back on. With welding or JB welding anything, you risk of running into the same issue with same catastrophic damage (or maybe even worse damage) than before.
just pinned your comment Fill
I always learn something new when i watch Donny's videos. Thanks!
Don, I have also had success pressing seals in with ABS tubing, Amitiés !
yes absolutely!
Great tip on using abs...kudos!
Wow, I've never seen anything like that happen before lol good repair dony, at least you saved the unit
A nice library of imformation Don. 2 years later I find what I need
Oh my gosh, the carnage that thing caused, I feel bad for the owner. Excellent work replacing the seal.
I feel bad for the engineer as well. It is a bad design.
@@Drottninggatan2017 I agree. The stator should have been held in place by screws not glue.
@@1575murray Look carefully when he is showing you where the stator broke off. The stator was held on with two bolts that screwed into standoffs on the engine. One of the standoffs broke off flush with the engine. The other was is still there.
@@eosjoe565 I saw that also !
I always enjoy your videos been watching about 10 years
Not surprised how your channel has grown
thanks buddy!
Another great, informative video. Your step by step explanation and showing us how you actually do the repair is very valuable. Glad you took the time to film this. Keep'm coming.
I love the smell of that Permatex gasket stuff.
must be why i'm forgetting things lol!
Perfect! That's what I like to see. No problems down the road because you did it right today.Thanks Don
Right on!
Thanks again, Doc. I am having to replace a seal on a 17.5 HP B & S on a Craftsman riding mower. I thought I had to remove the crank shaft to do that. I'm glad I don't have to. Thanks again.
I really enjoy your videos, they are very informative . I appreciate how you show step by step how you fix the equipment. Thanks
Good, clear, and well detailed.
If this ever happens to my snow blower, I'll just move to Florida.
Hello from WA state. Enjoy your videos. You take care!
have a great weekend!
Wow that's a first for me to see something like that with the flywheel and stator. Good video Don, just wish you would have shown how you were going to repair that stator. Possibly a future video idea??
I had a single cylinder B&S engine in an Ariens riding mower that the flywheel magnets came loose and jammed up the engine where it wouldn't crank. When I tried to turn it over by hand it made this awful scary grinding sound like the engine had exploded internally. But it was just the magnet chunks being ground up against the stator. It turns out all the magnets were broken. I removed the chunks of magnet and the damaged stator and re-used the flywheel. It wasn't worth spending the money for a new flywheel and stator just to charge the battery as I keep it hooked to a battery tender anyway. It's been 3 years now and the engine is still running perfectly.
I won't be repairing it, not worth the cost
@@donyboy73 For way less than the price of the repair the owner can probably buy a new pair of warmer gloves and a battery powered headlight. :-)
@@eosjoe565 for sure!
@@donyboy73 put that in a milling machine machine a flat machine a plug/mount for the stater drill and tap the case drill and tap the machined plug/mount . It’s just a way to fix it . You know , if it was the last one on earth and it had to be done ! Lol
Guess that stator was more of a go-tor. 🤣
Nice tip with the drywall screw - I always underestimate those since I prefer decking screws for random construction (and drywall screws aren't much good for me since I have steel studs). They'd definitely work as a puller though!
Nice little repair job. Thank you for sharing.🇦🇺
I got a makita dcs9000 , how do you remove the clutch? Is it , right hand thread or left hand thread?
Thank k you for your help.
Good video mate..
Had a similar thing happen to my in-laws snowblower, but there’s was the starter gear didn’t retract when engine stated.
Causing the starter gear to brake off, hit the coil and the coil seized the fly wheel.
Nice work Dony, your vids are always top-notch, thanks! 👍👍
Great demo. Might I suggest mentioning caution must be given to desired height of the seal. Dependent on design, it is possible to drive the seal to deep or not deep enough into the bore/recess. Further, if the crank has a wear groove caused by the old seal, when driving the new seal in, try and avoid placing the new seal edge into the groove. New Seal will seal better and last longer. Hopefully a helpful tip.
great tip, this engine's seal hole was perfect so it could only go in so far
Well done dony buddy 👍
Thanks 👍
As always very detailed and great video 👌 👍 That sure is a nice wood burning stove i saw at the end of the video LOL
Had the same thing happen, JB welded it back on, but it didn't hold. Never did figure why it broke off.
Awesome stuff mate from Australia
Hey Dony, if I understand right, that stator has nothing to do with generating spark. It only serves to run the light. Right? There is a separate ignition coil for spark?
yes the coil was above where flywheel goes
You can see it at 0:26. Black coil, white lettering, green wire.
Yes the post could be diy bodged with a large plate of metal and jb weld, but a new casing is the propper fix.
That is a thin seal, not much material to work with.
I think i would go for the tiny drill hole and the drywall screw or insert a hook/pick through the hole.
Great video, as usual! Thanks Dony.
Great video Don keep up the brilliant work hope everything is OK over there keep safe 👍
very good here, thank you!
Thanks don
Thankyou don for your amazing video, now do you do auto repairs? Thanks
just my own!
@@donyboy73 don i have a question,sorry my english is not so good. But i have a cub cadet 2180 riding mower tha is 2004 and for some reason the clutch pulley stop working...
Do you have any idea?
Thankyou so much for all your helpful videos....
Great video and good tutorial from the uk
Thank you very much!
That's unfortunate that your hardware store is not available. In the u.s. hardware stores have been considered essential retailers during the entire pandemic.
In Ontario you can lineup outside Hardware stores after phoning in your order and Credit Card #.
Not all have Small Engine repair departments.
Great video. Thanks Dony.
Damn Dony, you got a lot of snowblowers in your show right now lol
Super video. Any idea as to why the stator let go?
Awesome job keep up the good work
I have a 1992 2 cycle lawn boy that runs but it needs bottom end bearings possibly needs rings. Where can I find parts ...?
Another great video Don!
Glad you enjoyed it
What would cause grinding in starter every tho teeth on gear looks good? Have to use pull cord for teeth to re line the teeth for starter.
Good job
Dony is the new Bob Ross
Don, have you seen issues with crank seal fit in many of the older Kohlers? I've been seeing quite a few where the replacement OE seal (especially PTO side) will press into the case at barely above finger pressure. Seems to be on the Magnum and Command 18 and 20 hp the most. Been installing them and then staking them in place.
Hope you also know the oil seal part number at the belt side of the shaft. Or is the same in this video.
Oh and mine is a 10hp tecumseh.
Sweet deal. I wanted to see this for my pressure washer
Does using silicone sealer make replacing the seal in the future more difficult because now you have to scrape out the old silicone before using a new seal?
not really
Good job. Fine snowblower. Pretty sure your customer can buy an LED light at Princess Auto. No need for a stator.
What would power the LED light?
@@bobmcl2406 Rechargeable battery, charged in the garage overnight.
@@bobmcl2406 battery
Good work. Thanks
Informative as always....
As always, great video! Thanks! J
Thanks again!
Great video - as usual. Any difficulty with replacing that sator? - Joe -
as you saw in video the block is damaged so it's not worth fixing it
You have much more patience than me.
To easily remove the oil seal, could've used the Lisle 56750 Seal Puller, or drill a small hole through the metal part of the seal & use a self-tapping drywall screw & Vise Grips to pull the seal from the block.
i did it this way because the seal was already slightly protruding
@@donyboy73 I figured that's why you pulled the seal the way you did, because it was quick & easy.
nice job and great tips!
Glad it was helpful!
My old snowremover has been whining and making a lot of noise lately, I told her if she doesn't stop, I'm getting a new wife.
Lacking a better tool I have used a wood dowel and a small hammer to gently circle all around tapping the seal down until it bottoms in its groove.
good job don
I see a lot of Ariens snowblower videos where folks are using the Harbor Freight Predator motor for a engine swap. What are your thoughts on that engine
probably just as good as all others, they all come from the same place
i don't need my light BUT i LOVE my hand warmers
Would a brass punch work better vs pin punch ?
yes actually a brass pin punch would be better because it is softer!
Great job, cheers
Was wondering what the cause of the rotor coming loose in the first place? Did the casting break or bolt back out?
usually the bolts that hold stator get loose because of vibration and no loctite
Thank you!!
Do you have a video on replacing the stator?
not yet but just remove 2 bolts, very easy
@@donyboy73 thanks
The bolt came loose and make contact with fly wheel.
how to change front seal on crank shaft by belts and bearing
So what did you do about the stator?
I'm going to guess, nothing. Probably too expensive to repair the block and stator just for a light or hand warmers.
nothing, too expensive to repair
@@donyboy73 I've been using an Ariens/Tecumseh blower for 30 years with no light or hand warmers. My Ariens has a knock-our for a light mount but I didn't spring for the cost. I don't even think hand warmers were an option back when I bought it.
If I am about to put oil seal on my chainsaw crankcase, is it ok to put aviation gasket sealant (permatex80019) around the oil seal? Will it make it air tight?
yes
@@donyboy73 is it easy to clean up compared to Loctite 518 if I have to take it out? Thanks
@@lightshine6044 just as hard to clean as loctite!
I admire u
When are you getting a new door out back?
A good rule of thumb is to put some grease on the spring in the seal so it doesn't fall out on install
Also use a bit of motor oil on the seal itself so it doesn't run dry when you start the engine.
good tip!
Great job. That stator got destroyed.
Geez....now I want to pull my flywheel to torque that bolt, lol.
What caused the stator to come loose?
vibration
👍
Also if you have a piece of pvc pipe.the size of the seal because of the softness it will not damage the seal wouldn't you agree with this young man
definitely, i didn't have any kicking around the shop that day and we are in lockdown
Not nessesary with light and handwarmer, the Main Job to a snowblower is exsactly that blow the snow away, bretter there was not hole in the motor lock when the stator broke or connecting Rod break
Wery God
Don, you've obviously seem this type of damage before. What could have caused the stator to suddenly interfere with the flywheel? Seems kind of odd.
usually one of the stator bolts get loose and it gets caught in flywheel
Snowlowers with hand warmers? What a bunch of softies?
Obviously haven’t got any experience with walk behind snowblowers huh?
Some people are soft and just don’t know it yet.
@@jaxturner7288 Snow blowers are foreign where I live. In my town, TeAwamutu, it has only snowed one afternoon in living memory.
You need the hand warmers if you live in Winnipeg.
@@mrparlanejxtra Interesting. So you're making assumptions based on something you have no experience with? When it's 10 below and you're trying to clear a big driveway just to get to work, it's nice to be able to feel your hands while you squeeze the blower controls and aim the shoot with each pass... Boston native, speaking from solid experience. 😉 Sure, you can go without the hand warmers, absolutely. Matter of fact, you can go without the snowblower! Real men shovel snow, right? Only softies use machines to move fluffy snow out of the way. 🤣
@@mannys9130 Hand warmers great if you have bad circulation and your fingers freeze fast like mine do
If you can’t repair stator why bother with oil seal ?
You can still run the motor without issues . In this case it runs a light and thats it. Can buy a rechargeable led light cheap and mount on frame. Don has a video on that
Like dony said,the seal was damaged and would leak.
@@davidduma7615 Very true ,Thanks.
@@Thomasploeg1968 Thanks, I'll check it out!
Why Do half A job ?? Sooner or later they come back and say ? I want this fix ? You broke it ??
I tell them i do the hole job or you pay me for what i did ? Or you can Take it home?? I dont want repair things that will comeback later.. .
WAIT! That seal was the easy part. How are you fixing that broken stator mount dude? You HAVE to show us. No hold outs. Come on, everyone is going to ask anyways. I personally wouldn't know, you cannot just drill through the block, well, you could but thats going to wreck things. Please show how you would fix that. Thankyou.
because the it snapped off the block it's not financially worth fixing
He mentioned that is just the stator for the light and hand warmer. Those are non essential pieces on the machine, so not fixed.
If you wanted to fix that, a new engine case would be the fix. OR if you have the broken off piece, weld it back on.
@@mph5896 The broken off Stud Boss is still on the part along with the bolt. It could be welded but not worth the risk of damaging the block, plus cost of new Stator.
@@gordbaker896 Not to mention it's almost certainly an aluminum, block. Would require MIG or TIG welding and the block or stud boss (part still on stator) could be damaged resulting in more damage & more cost as you say. Also good to avoid epoxy (JBWeld, etc) as that would probably fail soon and cause the same damage - or worse.
Woow woow 😍💋 💝💖❤️
Good job